Steering / Transmission / Oil Cooling Help

[TheBandit]

Can anyone give me some recommendations on what to do with these coolers? I have a TH400 transmission in my '70 Nova. The previous owner of my car put these two coolers in front of the AC condensor (not shown) which were the only cooling for the tranny when I got the car. I later added a Griffin radiator with an integrated transmission cooler that I never hooked up.

My new plans for the car are less drag racing and more autocrossing and potentially road course. I plan to use the transmission cooler integrated into the radiator now that I'm replumbing things, but what should I do with these now? Should I put these two coolers in series with it, use one for a power steering cooler, use one for oil cooling, throw them both in the trash? Plumbing them will not be free - the fittings are probably going to be worth a few times what the coolers are, but maybe they would be a good investment? I am not sure how long the TH400 will stay - I may go to a T56 in the future. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/ly6swap551JPG-1.jpg

[Rod]

I think your on the right track, I would use one for power steering cooler (needed for autocross)and the other as an oil cooler (needed for track days)

[oestek]

Re-read your post, edited mine 'cause it did not apply.

[makoshark]

If you are running any type of stall converter, I would utilize one of those coolers to help cool the transmission. Aftermarket stalls generate significant more heat than stock converters, so an auxiliary cooler is nearly always a must.

[TheBandit]

I have a 2,800 BTE stall converter in the tranny. I am thinking run the tranny through the radiator and one of the coolers and run the PS return through the other cooler. I don't think I'll be tracking the car much if at all and it scares me to run engine oil to external plumbing if I don't need it.

[Brokenmonte1987]

I'd avoid the oil cooler too unless you really need it to keep engine temps in check. In my Monte I ran my trans to the radiator cooler, then to an external cooler (mounted almost exactly like yours) before going back to the trans. Didn't do before and after temp readings, but car seemed to shift quicker/smoother afterward (had no cooler prior). Plumbing may not be free, but much cheaper then rebuilding a trans. Good luck!

[MonzaRacer]

First of all if it gets cold where you live your plan should be to run the trans fluid HOT through the external cooler, I like a block coming out with a temp sensor and electric sender after this to verify your atf temps, THEN if its too cool, ie under 170 under load, race, etc run the fluid through the radiator internal trans cooler. Now here is a odd ball twist. IF you decide to upgrade your coolant to a BETTER coolant, then you can run your engine at a higher temp, making it more efficient and less likely to overheat under load.
How you say, Evans NPG+ Non-aqueous propylene glycol coolant, turns slushy at =40, never "freezes" boils at 375* F @ atmospheric pressure, IE no rad cap pressure actually needed. Trust me, if your engine hits 375*F its dead.
Neat part of this, is the coolant has no water, which means in engines with dissimilar metals it doesnt turn into an acid or alkaline battery eating up softer metal components AND last several years over silicate based OR OAT or HOAT based coolants.
With the Griffin rad your set up for it well enough, all you need are a few gallons of coolant, a gallon of flush and ways to drain your engine.
See the biggest issue hot rodders have as well as towers, and other heavily used vehicles, keeping the coolant UNDER boiling either means power robbing low temp t-stats OR high pressure rad caps and huge by large radiators (some of which actually cause MORE issues than they fix).
SO switching over to NPG+ becomes a better coolant, less stress on seals, gaskets, and hoses. AND better thermal control allows an engine to maintain more steady and safer power and heat control.
I have seen three engine pick up over 40hp just with raising the running temps. ALSO in hotter climates it allows the cooling system to function better.
Now with external coolers, look around for a fluid thermostat that allows the fluid to bypass the cooler if it gets too cool.
As for using one to cool power steering, no problem. Simply keep the hard lines as gently formed curves so as to eliminate restrictions.
Biggest issue is if the radiator is hotter than a trans needs to be, it over heats the trans fluid. Keeping the tranny fluid in the 170-190 range triples the life of it and the trans sue to fluid break down. Also sourcing a supply of full synthetic trans fluid dloing a flush AND fluid and filter change helps remove as much of the old non synthetic fluid and many of these fluids such as B&M's synthetic trans fluid even help with shifts, wear and stress related issues.
Check page 71(catalog page ) here: http://www.haydenauto.com/upload/HaydenAuto/Documents/Cat_Hayden/2007-hayden-trans-oil-coolers.pdf

Also can be used for oil.
Now most of those coolers used on trannys are too restrictive for engine oil. But would work well for a PS fluid. You can also use looped 3/8 fuel line.
I like making my sensor blocks out of blocks of aluminum with senders in fluid streams. I made three by drilling and taping for 3/8 inverted flare 1/4npt fittings in and out, the sending units I used are 1/8th in pipe. We drilled a large hole and tapped it 1/2 npt and hollowed out under that for fluid chamber for sensor to sit in without restricting flow. Can also be done in steel.
Check out coolant at www.evanscooling.com.

[David Pozzi]

An engine oil cooler line & cooler must be 5/8" (-10) or bigger.