Safety Wire Question -- Dorman 10160 "Utility/Mechanic's Wire"

[sjaroslo]

So, I finally decided to pay some attention to getting the rear brakes done for my project. The builder had mounted the caliper bracket and the rotors, and I was just needing to fit the calipers. However, when I took off the rears that they had provided, I decided that I could do a better job safety-wiring the bolts than they had, so I cut off their wire, re-torqued the bolts, and started re-wiring them. Which is about when I ran out of the safety wire that the builder had provided for me. Since I likely will never need to safety-wire anything else in my life, I didn't see the efficacy of buying a pound of the stuff from Summit, even though it only ran $17.... I noticed Summit offered 50' of it for $3, so that's what I bought.

What I received is a package from Dorman, p/n 10160, that is called "utility wire," and says on the back "Use for all types of home, auto, marine and garden applications." NOTHING about it being "safety wire." My understanding is that most safety wire is highly annealed stainless steel that is made for that specific purpose.... I can't find anywhere on the package or online that even describes what the material is....

Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Even though it shows up on Summit under their "safety wire" category, I have my reservations. I'm bummed that without it, I won't really be able to make any progress on my project (at least the brakes) over the holiday....

On the other hand, if I get my act together, I guess I could order a roll of the real stuff and it would get to me by tomorrow.... I'll give you guys a little while to respond. Thanks! :-)

[jpgolf14]

Why don't you just roll down to your local harbor freight and pick up a pound for under $10.

http://www.harborfreight.com/0041-inch-stainless-steel-lock-wire-1-lb-coil-8895.html

[Skip Fix]

If yours is not SS it will rust with moisture.

[snakedr]

The Dorman is not correct, here is what you need http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/safetywire.php?clickkey=4386 0.032 Stainless Wire.

[jpgolf14]

The Dorman is not correct, here is what you need http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/safetywire.php?clickkey=4386 0.032 Stainless Wire.

I personally like 0.041" for big bolts like brakes. But 0.032" will no doubt get the job done.

[sjaroslo]

Thanks for the feedback, everybody. I think the Harbor Freight idea would have been best, although I've not had the best results with a couple of other small items from there, but I don't think a pound of stainless safety wire from there could be too screwed up.... I'll remember that avenue the next time. BUT, I decided to put Summit's Customer Service folks to the task, and called and explained that I wasn't comfortable using the product they sent and that I think that it wasn't represented accurately online, and that I didn't want to spend $8 to return a $3 product, but that I wanted the replacement shipped today from Sparks (should get to me tomorrow) and didn't really want to pay shipping & handling over again.... Basically, they acquiesced on all counts. Told me not to worry about sending back the Dorman, only charged me the difference in price between the Dorman and the Longacre Racing wire I wanted, and they confirmed that it would ship out of Sparks today--so I'm happy.

JPGOLF14, while I have you here, let me ask you a question... I do not have REVERSIBLE safety wire pliers--they only spin clockwise. This works fine for the major twist on the first bolt head, because I can tuck the wire that wraps AROUND the head UNDER the wire that comes through the hole, and the clockwise action of the pliers keeps the wire low and pretty tight around the bolt head. BUT, on the second bolt head, I can't wrap the wire coming around the head of the bolt UNDER the one coming through the hole, because the clockwise action of the pliers would force it to go on TOP of the crowsswire--the end result being that I can't keep a nice wrap of the wire around the head of the second bolt, it tends to want to lift and run across the face of the bolt.... Does that make any sense? With reversible pliers, I could switch them to counter-clockwise rotation for the second spin and be able to keep the wire tucked nicely under. Are there any tips or tricks for getting that done with non-reversible pliers? Thanks!

[jpgolf14]

JPGOLF14, while I have you here, let me ask you a question... I do not have REVERSIBLE safety wire pliers--they only spin clockwise. This works fine for the major twist on the first bolt head, because I can tuck the wire that wraps AROUND the head UNDER the wire that comes through the hole, and the clockwise action of the pliers keeps the wire low and pretty tight around the bolt head. BUT, on the second bolt head, I can't wrap the wire coming around the head of the bolt UNDER the one coming through the hole, because the clockwise action of the pliers would force it to go on TOP of the crowsswire--the end result being that I can't keep a nice wrap of the wire around the head of the second bolt, it tends to want to lift and run across the face of the bolt.... Does that make any sense? With reversible pliers, I could switch them to counter-clockwise rotation for the second spin and be able to keep the wire tucked nicely under. Are there any tips or tricks for getting that done with non-reversible pliers? Thanks!

Sorry for the delay. I am well aware of the phenomenon that you are referring to. After I get the wrench tightened, I'll use a small flat head screwdriver in my left hand to hold the wire down, and I spin the wrench with my right hand. After the first few turns, the wire gets very tight and won't go anywhere. Of course this can get tricky depending on access.

John

[sjaroslo]

Thanks! That's sort of what I resorted to, just wasn't sure if that was a generally accepted practice.... I think I would have had better results if I was left-handed, as I was having to pull the twist knob with my left while holding the wire with my right.... Also, with these being the rear rotors, there was the added impediment of the raised lip from the parking brake drum, so it was a challenge all of the way around. In the end, I'm OK with what I got accomplished and I think that it is safe. I'll post a pic once I'm back home from Turkey Day travel.

[jpgolf14]

Thanks! That's sort of what I resorted to, just wasn't sure if that was a generally accepted practice.... I think I would have had better results if I was left-handed, as I was having to pull the twist knob with my left while holding the wire with my right.... Also, with these being the rear rotors, there was the added impediment of the raised lip from the parking brake drum, so it was a challenge all of the way around. In the end, I'm OK with what I got accomplished and I think that it is safe. I'll post a pic once I'm back home from Turkey Day travel.

Yeah rotors are a pain as the fasteners are small and you don't have a lot of room to work. Sounds like you did well though.

John

[sjaroslo]

I'm OK with what I've ended up with. These are still sitting on the dining room table as I slept in today and then felt pretty achy, so the work on the rears will continue. I did work on my long-overdue update to my build thread so the entire day isn't completely wasted....

The one on the lower left is especially heinous and I might just re-do it before all of the tools get put away....
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