Holley EFI Users, Step Inside Please

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Let me start by saying thanks to the ones who are running Holley EFI, and representing the brand. We would not be in the position we are without you. With boost, and traction control about to hit the open market, we are ready to push ahead with product development. I want input from the people running Holley EFI. What would you like to see from the brand? Any input/information you would like to share, please do. New kits, harness's, accessories, etc. Post up what you the owners want/need from the Holley EFI brand. If you're a hater, and feel the need to talk crap, please start your own thread. Thanks - Derek

[regal454]

I just finished the install of the Holley HP EFI kit (550-603) on my LS swap. I am very impressed with everything. I am still amazed at the adjustability of the system. I am looking forward to getting it dialed in a littlle better with the closed loop learn function. I would like to see the Holley EFI ecm work with a few aftermarker gauge sensors.

The only thing I would recommend is to add a few more warm bodies to answer the EFI tech line. I received my main harness with the wrong crank sensor connector and couldn't ever get anyone on the phone. I did eventially end up talking with Woody and he sent the right connector out that day. I think if you had a few people answering questions, i'll bet it would help you sell more EFI systems.

[johnparts]

3rd gen hemi support would be nice

[chr2002ca]

I'm actually about to buy your HP EFI system and have spent a LOT of time researching every possible thread/discussion I could find about your system on the net. I have read a lot of positive feedback on your ECU and only a few reported issues, so I look forward to using it on my new ZL 489. I can think of 2 things worth contributing to this thread. One, your BBC oval port manifold that ships with your complete setup needs an excessive amount of port work to obtain decent flow numbers and port matching. Quite a while ago this issue was brought up and a Holley rep mentioned on a thread that they were retooling to create a better manifold but I never saw anything about a new manifold being released. As a result, I'm just going to buy your ECU package and go with a different manifold(Edelbrock Victor JR EFI) and fuel rails(and injectors). That will also cause me to use Edelbrock's throttle body since I saw another person post that the HP throttle body had a clearance issue on the Eddy manifold. So enhancing that manifold design might lead to some extra sales on your complete packages. Making it slightly shorter and offerring short-style injectors might also give more of us better fitment opportunities with your complete packages also. Secondly, I noticed on another forum a discussion about a lean stumble when lightly rolling. Doug Flynn on ChevyTalk responded to a user who reported the issue on 2-16-2012 with the following:

"Yep, I have the exact same issue. Evidently, there's a firmware setting that filters out the AE vs TPS Rate of Change on very slow throttle movements for unnecessarily rich transient fueling. However, it's set too high. The next firmware update is supposed to have a user programmable parameter to resolve this issue. The situation isn't too bad on my application because I've enriched the Target Air/Fuel Ratio Table, so most of the "lean flash" (that's what I call it) is compensated for. But I hate seeing that quick lean flash when I slowly roll into the throttle too. It's frustrating because no amount of AE tuning will cure it."

I never saw a follow-up post or announcement from Holley stating this had been resolved. Maybe it has and I just couldn't find it. If not, it might be good to get that fixed asap.

That's all I've got. Seems to be a great product!

[Derekk]

Thank you guys for the feedback. I was hoping more users on here have/had experience with our EFI. Yellow Bullet was full of ideas/suggestions. CHR2002 from what I've been told the AE issue has been addressed.

[Mr Nick]

I am not yet a Holley EFI customer, but may be in the future. I was unclear whether you actually work for Holley from your post, and your comment of If you're a hater, and feel the need to talk crap, please start your own thread. isn't the most professional way to represent the brand. Simply my impression.

I do have a few questions:

Is there anyway to prevent slow starting during cold starts as mentioned here? http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_1112_holleys_avenger_efi/viewall.html

I've heard the Avenger series the the same as the HP, except it comes with the handheld controller and fuel pump. Can I plug in my laptop to an Avenger system and have it do everything the HP series would? If I don't mind (I actually prefer) using my laptop, will I save money purchasing the HP system and separate fuel pump?

I understand it can control timing. Can you explain this more? Does it simply do an electronic version of weights/springs and vac canister, or does it actually use timing as a tuning tool while running? Do I set what I want as max advance?

I already have a full -8 supply and return fuel system. Can the correct fittings be used so I can keep those fuel lines, or must I use 3/8" and 5/16" lines per the instructions? I'm using Aeroquip Socketless lines/fittings. The lines are good to 250psi but I'm not sure what the fittings can handle, considering they don't use clamps.

[FlyDoc]

I am planing on using a Holley EFI system, my questions on which one I will need to use, I can't find the info I need to make the decision on your web sight. I'm new to putting to gather and tuning a full "custom" system. I will be running a 383, LT1 with EFI Connections crank and cam trigger. with a Eaton style 112 supercharger, water to air inter-coolers, and methanol injection, drive by wire, cruse, and A/C. I would like to stay with the HP, over the Dominator for cost reasons.

[Derekk]

I am not yet a Holley EFI customer, but may be in the future. I was unclear whether you actually work for Holley from your post, and your comment of If you're a hater, and feel the need to talk crap, please start your own thread. isn't the most professional way to represent the brand. Simply my impression.

I do have a few questions:

Is there anyway to prevent slow starting during cold starts as mentioned here? http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_1112_holleys_avenger_efi/viewall.html

I've heard the Avenger series the the same as the HP, except it comes with the handheld controller and fuel pump. Can I plug in my laptop to an Avenger system and have it do everything the HP series would? If I don't mind (I actually prefer) using my laptop, will I save money purchasing the HP system and separate fuel pump?

I understand it can control timing. Can you explain this more? Does it simply do an electronic version of weights/springs and vac canister, or does it actually use timing as a tuning tool while running? Do I set what I want as max advance?

I already have a full -8 supply and return fuel system. Can the correct fittings be used so I can keep those fuel lines, or must I use 3/8" and 5/16" lines per the instructions? I'm using Aeroquip Socketless lines/fittings. The lines are good to 250psi but I'm not sure what the fittings can handle, considering they don't use clamps.

I'll address your questions/concerns as I AM a Holley employee, and one of the lead EFI Technical Reps. I will agree that my bold statement may not be the most professional, however I wanted to make it very clear that this thread is not for people to bash. The purpose of this thread has a much needed purpose....We want feedback from people that use the system, and will potentially use the system in the future...

Slow start ups have been addressed, and software/firmware revisions have been made in the V2 software to improve/resolve this issue. We will be releasing this update sometime this week.

The Avenger ECU, and HP ecu are 100% the same except for the decal on the front of the ECU. If you need the fuel pump, I would suggest buying the Avenger kit (more complete than an HP Kit). It can be tuned via laptop simply by downloading the software (free @ Holley.com), and connecting to the ecu via USB cable.

The ecu has the capability to do timing control. This can be achieved by utilizing a small cap HEI distributor, crank trigger, dual sync distributor, TFI distributor etc. Using this feature, you will have full control over programming the timing table inside the software. Using a distributor that has a "vacuum advance" will not be computer controlled.

Are you considering the use of a Throttle body injection kit, or a multi-port injection? Since you have a nice fuel system, please disregard my suggestion above regarding the HP vs Avenger kit. You would save money buying the HP. As far as fittings to adapt the system, to your fuel system. I'm sure there wouldn't be an issue doing so. Multi-Port kits generally operate between 43-60 psi or rail pressure, and TBI kits operate @ 21psi, so your fuel system should be adequate.

Thanks for taking the time to post up. - Derek

[Derekk]

I am planing on using a Holley EFI system, my questions on which one I will need to use, I can't find the info I need to make the decision on your web sight. I'm new to putting to gather and tuning a full "custom" system. I will be running a 383, LT1 with EFI Connections crank and cam trigger. with a Eaton style 112 supercharger, water to air inter-coolers, and methanol injection, drive by wire, cruse, and A/C. I would like to stay with the HP, over the Dominator for cost reasons.

It will not be possible to use the HP in your application. HP ecu's cannot control dbw throttle bodies. For the amount of inputs/outputs you will be using, I would encourage the use of the dominator ecu. You will want to build your own kit. Dominator systems are sold A la carte. If you need assistance with choosing the harness's, please send me a pm, or call in to the Tech line. 270-781-9741 Thank you, Derek

[Mr Nick]

Thanks for the reply Derek.

I would be using the throttle body unit. I have too much money into my dual plane intake to invest into a single plane and then convert it to EFI. Glad to hear my current fuel system will work, with the exception of the Mallory 140 pump.

I would definitely let the Holley ECU control timing. Not sure if I'd go with crank trigger or small cap HEI. My options may be limited for an Oldsmobile engine.

[Derekk]

If you are running a CD ignition box, you could run the distributor listed below. At some point down the road, and decided to go Multi-Port, the dual sync distributor would allow you to run Sequential fuel control.

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=FS&Category_Code=DistOlds

[csouth]

Derek,

Any idea on the price point of the Terminator 4bbl system? I have a FAST unit that i have yet to install, but I was checking out the tuning ability available in this unit.

[Derekk]

Derek,

Any idea on the price point of the Terminator 4bbl system? I have a FAST unit that i have yet to install, but I was checking out the tuning ability available in this unit.

The pricing has not been determined for the Terminator Kits. They should be available for purchase around April 2013. If you are still in the market, hit me up around Feb. 2012 for pricing.

[csouth]

The pricing has not been determined for the Terminator Kits. They should be available for purchase around April 2013. If you are still in the market, hit me up around Feb. 2012 for pricing.

Thanks, for the reply.

[Alpina]

Is it or will it be Ipad compatible?

[Bmf5150]

Is it or will it be Ipad compatible?
Great question, or iPhone control???

[Bmf5150]

With new software, can we just load our old file into new software ?will we still have slow start from old file?

[rossmacd]

I would have bought a Dominator system already if there was one made for 4.6 DOHCs. I've read alot of good things about the system from alot of sources and am impressed, but until there is something made for my engine, it's just going to kepe sitting there. Honestly that's the only reason that I haven't bought one; I think the performance and cost are spot on, I just need it to fit my engine!

[Derekk]

Is it or will it be Ipad compatible?

It has been talked about, however it is NOT compatible at this time. I'll know more about this at the beginning of next year.

[Derekk]

With new software, can we just load our old file into new software ?will we still have slow start from old file?

Your current tune can be loaded into the new software.. no need to start from scratch.


I would have bought a Dominator system already if there was one made for 4.6 DOHCs. I've read alot of good things about the system from alot of sources and am impressed, but until there is something made for my engine, it's just going to kepe sitting there. Honestly that's the only reason that I haven't bought one; I think the performance and cost are spot on, I just need it to fit my engine!

We have ran a coyote motor on the dyno. We know there is a demand for Mod Motor Harness's, and MPFI kits. Now that the software has been released, boost control has been released, engineers, and management can focus on building mod motor kits, and HEMI kits.

[FlyDoc]

It has been talked about, however it is NOT compatible at this time. I'll know more about this at the beginning of next year.
so will or is it compatible with Mac?

[Derekk]

so will or is it compatible with Mac?

It has been talked about, however it is NOT compatible at this time. I'll know more about this at the beginning of next year.

[Steve Chryssos]

We have Holley HP EFI on the Twist Machine Camaro. The only feedback I have is to your instructions. I suggest adding a photo of a battery with both top and side posts to emphasize the necessity of dedicated battery leads for the ECM. The instructions try to be emphatic, but they still seem like suggestions.

-Start selling your own hardware for increased spark resolution and timing control. We're happily motoring down the road using our pre-existing CD /mag pickup ignition. I'm guessing a lot of folks have followed that same path. After learning the benefits of computer controlled timing, we intend to upgrade the ignition system for greater resolution and control. Since the software is capable, Holley might as well capture that sale.

-We converted our fuel system to returnless in conjunction with a late Camaro in tank pump. Works awesome, but we weren't 100% sure it would work until we turned the key. You might want to add support for returnless plumbing.

[sanman357]

It has been talked about, however it is NOT compatible at this time. I'll know more about this at the beginning of next year.

Something to think about. Apple is looking to move away from Intel chips in there computers. It could possibly affect future software compatibility. They need to stick with a format instead of jumping around.

[elwaupo]

I haven't heard anything on the Stealth units. I have a 69 camaro that I want to convert to EFI and I'm trying to figure out witch model to use. I do have 2 Mallory Unilte distributors, one with vacumn advance and one without, could those be used? Which model would be the best choice? Should I go with TBI or multiport? I'm planning on using this car as a daily driver so I want the drive ability of a good running EFI.

[Derekk]

I haven't heard anything on the Stealth units. I have a 69 camaro that I want to convert to EFI and I'm trying to figure out witch model to use. I do have 2 Mallory Unilte distributors, one with vacumn advance and one without, could those be used? Which model would be the best choice? Should I go with TBI or multiport? I'm planning on using this car as a daily driver so I want the drive ability of a good running EFI.

How much power does your engine produce?

[Red67Mustang]

I'd like to suggest the cells in the fuel table that have been modified from the base calibration by way of "apply learning to base"...should change to a different color in the cell. This will easily allow tuners to know, when smoothing the graph, if the cell being adjusted manually has been calibrated by "learning" or not. This may seem trivial but should also be fairly easy to include in the program.

Btw; I'm using the HP EFI with TBI on a 302 Ford w/ TFI dist.

Thanks!

[Mr Nick]

Btw; I'm using the HP EFI with TBI on a 302 Ford w/ TFI dist.

Thanks!

How do you like it?

[sccacuda]

Derek,

Got the V2 update. I imported my old file, but was unable to add the boost config. I made a new file, in the new software, and was able to import the boost config and now have the tab. I cannot, however, get the traction control. It's in the add config library, but no files are available. Is this another update?

[sccacuda]

And since you are THE tech.... I read the the boost control manual 3 times. Very good stuff!! I'm running twins, with two dual port waste gates. I'm confused as to what's recommended. I don't want to run a separate pressure source, just use the compressor. If I read right, you recommend using the "Holley single 3 port" with dome pressure control when using the compressor as the pressure source? How do you recommend running both waste gates and solenoids? Should I tie both gate tops together with a line and run a single pressure sensor? I didn't see the ability to control two separate gates, but I may have missed it.

[Red67Mustang]

Overall I do like the HP EFI setup - though I find the tuning manual fairly limited and therefore not extremely valuable in addressing the miriad issues that have come up in tuning the car. I rely on third party resources (books) to better explain the cause/effect relationship of the changes I need to make. Granted, I'm not a professional tuner so I am learning as I go. One thing I can't seem to resolve so far though, is that the car takes between 4 to 10 seconds of cranking to start. That's a long time... (I've adjusted the IAC Park Position and Cranking Fuel several times but just don't see and impreovement on the cranking time.)

[mnm99]

I have a question about the Terminator setup. I currently have a blow thru Holley 750 carb. Right now I'm using it on a Chevy 350 Twin turbo setup pushing around 400. Very low psi. I'm building a new motor that will end up un the 850-900hp range. The carb I have will support what I need when I'm ready. I was looking at the Terminator sutup, but was told MAX hp would be around 600 because of the orifice in the TB where the fuel comes out. Even if the injectors were larger the restriction would be the littles holes. Now this was all hear say that I was told. I went ahead and called Holley around almost 2 months ago and never heard back (I'm in no rush anyway) I asked what the MAX HP on a BLO THRU setup ould be. I was tol'd he didn't think it was ever tested. Would you be able to tell us? If that kind of HP could be made I'm sold. Thanks

[Mr Nick]

One thing I can't seem to resolve so far though, is that the car takes between 4 to 10 seconds of cranking to start. That's a long time... (I've adjusted the IAC Park Position and Cranking Fuel several times but just don't see and impreovement on the cranking time.)

Check post #8 on the first page of this thread. Seems there is a software update to address this. Have you tried these?

[Red67Mustang]

Check post #8 on the first page of this thread. Seems there is a software update to address this. Have you tried these?

I've not yet tried it, mainly because: Derek makes reference to a "V2" issue of the Firmware, but the Holley website http://www.holley.com/TechService/Library.asp says the most recent version of the firmware is "V1.5.0.1" - which is not obviously the same as V2....

Also, I don't know what ID number my ECU has (and it's installed up under the dash / not easy to get to). All this in concert with Holley's dire warning "It is recommended to not update an older ECU, unless USB connectivity issues occur", has me hesitant to try a firmware update... I bought my HP EFI in April of 2010 so I am thinking this is an "Older" ECU...

I've downloaded the file "HEFI_0397.eep" from the Holley website, but still to 'skeered' :scared: to update...

I'd love it if someone from Holley could weigh in and clear this up.

Thanks!

"Moderator approval" was needed because you have very few posts and this one has a link - a spam-reduction measure.

[Red67Mustang]

I replied to this, but it said the post would appear after the "modorator approves it"...not sure why though.

Long story short; I've not updated the firmware because Holley's website warns against updating the firmware on "older" EFI setups and I bought my HP EFI in April of 2010, which in the lifespan of these EFI setups, I assume makes it an "older" one. I'd love for Holley to explain just what I'm supposed to do if I can't update the firmware.

Thanks!

[Finch]

I have the HP system running a 70 Nova with a 501 CI LS engine and also have it on my 71 camaro with a 680 HP LS7. I really like the nitrous options and that you can safely run a dry system with the fuel compensation. I plan on keeping it when I install the 850 HP blower motor this spring.

I would say the documentation on the features could be expanded to give more detail to the common person.

I am actually in the middle of installing the HP system on a 69 Camaro with an LS2 and love the ease of installation. I do plan on using the HP to replace the factory ECM on my 4.6 cobra engine in my 67 so will let you know how the wiring harness mods go.

[rossmacd]

Let me know if you manage to get it to work on your 4.6; all of my information points to mod motors being out in the cold on this one.

[Red67Mustang]

One thing that I'd like to see is a list of Dealer (Holley) certified tuning shops. Lots of mfr's offer dealer certification of local installers, etc... and I would assume tuning could be similiar. The HP EFI system is great, but my EFI knowledge (while fairly informed) is not at expert level, and I have not found a tuner in the Northern Virginia area that is reputable and qualified to tune the Holley HP EFI system. There may be one, I just can't find it because I don't know where to look...ergo; a certification program from Holley would take much of the guesswork out of it.

Just an idea. Thanks

[MichaelLeeHearn]

Do you know if there will be a in interface for the Dominator EFI system for RacePak dashes and data-logging systems in the near future?

I would like to go with the Dominator system, but I am planning on using RacePak IQ3 dash and G2X data logger. The only interface they have right now is for the old commander style system.

I know this is not just a Holley question, I hope you know if there is something in the works in the near future.

[Derekk]

I'd like to suggest the cells in the fuel table that have been modified from the base calibration by way of "apply learning to base"...should change to a different color in the cell. This will easily allow tuners to know, when smoothing the graph, if the cell being adjusted manually has been calibrated by "learning" or not. This may seem trivial but should also be fairly easy to include in the program.

Btw; I'm using the HP EFI with TBI on a 302 Ford w/ TFI dist.

Thanks!
Sorry I've been out working on projects in R&D...I have noted the request. Thank you for the input.


Derek,

Got the V2 update. I imported my old file, but was unable to add the boost config. I made a new file, in the new software, and was able to import the boost config and now have the tab. I cannot, however, get the traction control. It's in the add config library, but no files are available. Is this another update?

Was the Boost ICF just not available, or where you looking in the wrong library? In the V2 software, ICF's are listed under the Holley EFI folder in "MY DOCUMENTS". Traction control firmware (yes another update) will not be available until we release a newer firmware. We are finishing some details that are required for NHRA Techs to quickly detect if the TC ICF has been loaded into the ecu. We are almost ready to release this new firmware.


And since you are THE tech.... I read the the boost control manual 3 times. Very good stuff!! I'm running twins, with two dual port waste gates. I'm confused as to what's recommended. I don't want to run a separate pressure source, just use the compressor. If I read right, you recommend using the "Holley single 3 port" with dome pressure control when using the compressor as the pressure source? How do you recommend running both waste gates and solenoids? Should I tie both gate tops together with a line and run a single pressure sensor? I didn't see the ability to control two separate gates, but I may have missed it.

Even though you are using the compressor as a dome pressure source, I still suggest the use of 2 - 3 port solenoids (557-200). You will have better control using one solenoid to increase the pressure, and one to decrease the pressure. You will just tee the gates together, and run a single sensor.


Overall I do like the HP EFI setup - though I find the tuning manual fairly limited and therefore not extremely valuable in addressing the miriad issues that have come up in tuning the car. I rely on third party resources (books) to better explain the cause/effect relationship of the changes I need to make. Granted, I'm not a professional tuner so I am learning as I go. One thing I can't seem to resolve so far though, is that the car takes between 4 to 10 seconds of cranking to start. That's a long time... (I've adjusted the IAC Park Position and Cranking Fuel several times but just don't see and impreovement on the cranking time.)

Changing those settings will not speed up the starting process. You will need the V2 software to improve a slow start condition. There is a prime feature that aids, and cuts the cranking time down to a normal, acceptable time. 1-4 seconds. I've never seen a car (properly tuned) take 10 seconds. That may have something to do with the startup enrichment for cold/hot values. If you do not have the V2 software, send a request to [email protected] Please include your name, phone number, application, and current software version.


I have a question about the Terminator setup. I currently have a blow thru Holley 750 carb. Right now I'm using it on a Chevy 350 Twin turbo setup pushing around 400. Very low psi. I'm building a new motor that will end up un the 850-900hp range. The carb I have will support what I need when I'm ready. I was looking at the Terminator sutup, but was told MAX hp would be around 600 because of the orifice in the TB where the fuel comes out. Even if the injectors were larger the restriction would be the littles holes. Now this was all hear say that I was told. I went ahead and called Holley around almost 2 months ago and never heard back (I'm in no rush anyway) I asked what the MAX HP on a BLO THRU setup ould be. I was tol'd he didn't think it was ever tested. Would you be able to tell us? If that kind of HP could be made I'm sold. Thanks

At this time the Terminator has not been released. Many factors contribute to this. It has been brought up to engineering, and management on developing the Terminator TBI so that Blow Thru carb customers have an easier option to convert to EFI. At this time I know 600HP N/A is all that can be supported. However we have larger injectors to test for boosted applications. I would like to give you more information, however at this time I simply do not have enough information to accurately give you a definative answer on how much HP can safely be supported, etc. Thank you, and don't give up. It's best to keep these ideas fresh, so call from time to time and give us a nudge lol.


I've not yet tried it, mainly because: Derek makes reference to a "V2" issue of the Firmware, but the Holley website http://www.holley.com/TechService/Library.asp says the most recent version of the firmware is "V1.5.0.1" - which is not obviously the same as V2....
Also, I don't know what ID number my ECU has (and it's installed up under the dash / not easy to get to). All this in concert with Holley's dire warning "It is recommended to not update an older ECU, unless USB connectivity issues occur", has me hesitant to try a firmware update... I bought my HP EFI in April of 2010 so I am thinking this is an "Older" ECU...
I've downloaded the file "HEFI_0397.eep" from the Holley website, but still to 'skeered' :scared: to update...
I'd love it if someone from Holley could weigh in and clear this up.
Thanks!
"Moderator approval" was needed because you have very few posts and this one has a link - a spam-reduction measure.

Ok, long story short, go into your software, and click on the drop down menu next to help. Select "about holley efi." Lower RH corner it will give you the software version, and build. To get your firmware version, you must be connected to the ecu. The drop down menu next to the broken circle "SYNC" icon has the option to "Get ECU Info" If you have SW 1.5, and Firmware 3.97 the update for V2 software is easy. Please call the tech line if you need assistance 270-781-9741


I have the HP system running a 70 Nova with a 501 CI LS engine and also have it on my 71 camaro with a 680 HP LS7. I really like the nitrous options and that you can safely run a dry system with the fuel compensation. I plan on keeping it when I install the 850 HP blower motor this spring.

I would say the documentation on the features could be expanded to give more detail to the common person.

I am actually in the middle of installing the HP system on a 69 Camaro with an LS2 and love the ease of installation. I do plan on using the HP to replace the factory ECM on my 4.6 cobra engine in my 67 so will let you know how the wiring harness mods go.

I'm glad you are an avid user. When you start the mod motor install, let me know. There has been some blanking issues with the cam sensor. We are working daily to work towards a plug n play ecu/harness kit like we currently offer for the LS engines. If you are using the V2 software, be sure to use the 36-1 crank trigger in the "ignition type."

[Derekk]

Let me know if you manage to get it to work on your 4.6; all of my information points to mod motors being out in the cold on this one. That is not 100% correct. We have a couple of people that have mod motors running with our electronics. Mike Dez @ Dez Racing just finished a Mercury Marauder with a blower, and used our Universal Kit. As I posted above, we are working diligently to release plug n play harness's for the mod motors. They simply aren't available at this time.


One thing that I'd like to see is a list of Dealer (Holley) certified tuning shops. Lots of mfr's offer dealer certification of local installers, etc... and I would assume tuning could be similiar. The HP EFI system is great, but my EFI knowledge (while fairly informed) is not at expert level, and I have not found a tuner in the Northern Virginia area that is reputable and qualified to tune the Holley HP EFI system. There may be one, I just can't find it because I don't know where to look...ergo; a certification program from Holley would take much of the guesswork out of it.

Just an idea. Thanks

We do have a dealer map on our homepage. The map consists of dealers are buy, sell, install, and tune kits on a regular basis. Not just a once a year mom/pop shop. We have been offering dealer training in the Bowling Green facility, and @ Westech in California. Dealers are given the opportunity to become "certified" installers/tuners, but the choice has been up to them. Take a look at the map to locate a dealer to assist you. Thank you.
http://www.holley.com/DealerMap.asp?brand=Holley EFI


Do you know if there will be a in interface for the Dominator EFI system for RacePak dashes and data-logging systems in the near future?

I would like to go with the Dominator system, but I am planning on using RacePak IQ3 dash and G2X data logger. The only interface they have right now is for the old commander style system.

I know this is not just a Holley question, I hope you know if there is something in the works in the near future.

We have provided Racepak all the information required by them to build an interface for the Holley EFI/Racepak dash. The ball is in their court now. Call Racepak, and request a date lol. Thank you - Derek



I'll try to do better. I had subscriptions turned off, but now they are on. I should get notifications when someone replies. Thanks again for all showing interest in this thread.

[MichaelLeeHearn]

I will post a message on there forum and see what they say.

[Todd in Vancouver]

It's really nice to see a company that is so interested in what their customers are doing with their products and open to our input. In my dealings with Holley the guys have been great in helping me get to where I want to be as this is the first EFI car I've built having been a drag racer long ago and just now trying to get back into the hobby.

My question is around what to proceed with for ignition? I picked up a brand new Holley Stealth Ram for my car from a very mad wife of a guy who was trying to sell some stuff. It was to good a deal to pass up but when I got it home I realized it still had the Commander 950 electronics. I am just going to buy the HP set up for my SR set, I think it is part#550-604 so I will be more than happy to give you feedback on how it goes for a first time user. But, what should I proceed with for ignition as I really like the idea of having it controlled by the computer for my SR and being able to adjust and control it.

Here is what I currently have from another project I sold so I am wondering if the HP can control it?
69924

With the matching distributor, no vacuume advance,
69928

This was also in the bottom of the box with my Stealth Ram so will the Holley box work?
69931

In the end it all needs to make this run with reliability so I can drive this thing anywhere anytime.
69929

I'm hoping to get the engine to the local Dyno shop soon to get it broken in first then I will start on the Stealth Ram conversion with the engine in the car.

[XLexusTech]

Derek any if your custoners using the Holly kit on an LSA?

[Derekk]

It's really nice to see a company that is so interested in what their customers are doing with their products and open to our input. In my dealings with Holley the guys have been great in helping me get to where I want to be as this is the first EFI car I've built having been a drag racer long ago and just now trying to get back into the hobby.

My question is around what to proceed with for ignition? I picked up a brand new Holley Stealth Ram for my car from a very mad wife of a guy who was trying to sell some stuff. It was to good a deal to pass up but when I got it home I realized it still had the Commander 950 electronics. I am just going to buy the HP set up for my SR set, I think it is part#550-604 so I will be more than happy to give you feedback on how it goes for a first time user. But, what should I proceed with for ignition as I really like the idea of having it controlled by the computer for my SR and being able to adjust and control it.

Here is what I currently have from another project I sold so I am wondering if the HP can control it?
69924

With the matching distributor, no vacuume advance,
69928

This was also in the bottom of the box with my Stealth Ram so will the Holley box work?
69931

In the end it all needs to make this run with reliability so I can drive this thing anywhere anytime.
69929

I'm hoping to get the engine to the local Dyno shop soon to get it broken in first then I will start on the Stealth Ram conversion with the engine in the car.

In using the stealthram manifold, I suggest kit 550-601. The TPS connection, and the IAC connection should be correct for the manifold/throttle body. As far as timing control with the system, you have a few options. You could reuse the CDI box/distributor. However the distributor rotor needs to be locked, and must have an 8 tooth reluctor wheel. In wiring up the distributor to mimic a crank trigger, you can have timing control - Non Sequential fuel control. Another option is to use a small cap HEI distributor (no cdi box) out of a 87-95 Chevy truck. Again this will be paired injection. If you want sequential fuel control, I suggest a MSD or FAST Dual Sync distributor. The CDI box will need to be used for this as well. I hope this gives a little clarity on your combination.

[Derekk]

Derek any of your customers using the Holley kit on an LSA?

I've not assisted anyone with the LSA, however I have assisted with the use on a couple of LS9 engines.

[csouth]

Derek, any update on the Terminator release date?

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

FYI, this is (Derek) my personal account. Engineering is very tight lipped on the Terminator ETA, but speculation is 6-8 weeks.

[rossmacd]

Any idea on what Dez Racing had to do to make the dominator system work? I just sent them an email but was wondering of you had an idea.


And I know you said that now Holley could start working out n efi for mod motors and hemi's, but is there any sort of time line on those? There are other options out there, and while Dominator seems like the best solution for me, I have to be realistic and say that is it is going to be a year or more before it is ready I should probably look elsewhere. Anything that takes that long to be produced has too much potential of becoming vaporware!

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Nothing major, however I don't have all the information at hand so I'll provide a formal response when I get back in the office.

[rossmacd]

Nothing major, however I don't have all the information at hand so I'll provide a formal response when I get back in the office.

Thanks, I'll be looking forward to it.

[Derekk]

Ok, we have two customers that run the Holley EFI on mod motors. Both of those are running untimed sequential fuel strategies (no cam sync). On one engine the stock coils were used with Bosch 0-227-100-211 ignitors. This worked up to 25 psi of boost on a 4.6 32V engine. Over 25 psi, the spark would blow out. The car Dez Racing built used the Holley DIS coils. On each engine the GM stepper IAC valves were used at the onset, however after reving the engine, the IAC would not "catch" the engine. So the Ford IAC valves were reinstalled, and performed flawlessly. As a side note, the Ford IAC requires 1 pwm output. Hope this helps - Derek

[Mr Nick]

Derek, I've heard Holley has new EFI throttle bodies coming out? Will this be for the Avenger and HP self tuning units?

[rossmacd]

Ok, we have two customers that run the Holley EFI on mod motors. Both of those are running untimed sequential fuel strategies (no cam sync). On one engine the stock coils were used with Bosch 0-227-100-211 ignitors. This worked up to 25 psi of boost on a 4.6 32V engine. Over 25 psi, the spark would blow out. The car Dez Racing built used the Holley DIS coils. On each engine the GM stepper IAC valves were used at the onset, however after reving the engine, the IAC would not "catch" the engine. So the Ford IAC valves were reinstalled, and performed flawlessly. As a side note, the Ford IAC requires 1 pwm output. Hope this helps - Derek


Thanks! Very helpful. Hopefully Dez racing gets back to me on the specifics of what they did.

[Derekk]

Derek, I've heard Holley has new EFI throttle bodies coming out? Will this be for the Avenger and HP self tuning units?

This is the only new throttle body being built at this time.

http://www.holley.com/550-406.asp

[Red67Mustang]

Derek,
Any idea why my V2 software ( HP EFI ) will only communicate with my ECU when I run the software as an "administrator"?

Much thanks.

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Derek,
Any idea why my V2 software ( HP EFI ) will only communicate with my ECU when I run the software as an "administrator"?

Much thanks.

In order to read/write to the Holley folder one must have full control. The only to have this access is to run as an administrator.

[64duece]

The V2 Software and associated Firmware have been officially released. Please visit http://www.holley.com/TechService/Library.asp for instructions and download.

[Supervette]

I have nothing but good things to say about the Holley HP EFI system. It turned my blow through engine into a friendly street car again with excellent throttle response. The only piece of advice I could give Holley is a beginners guide to selecting injectors as I selected my 83 lb ones too small with E85. So I maxed the injector out and had to stop tuning....The only way to get capacity back now is to either switch to Race fuel or buy bigger injectors.....Apparently the max hp rating on injectors are not really the max rating once you factor in duty cycle, supercharger and then E85 and some other derating factor I feel like I am forgetting. These small but easy calculations should in my opinion be much more visible on the site. There tech line is Super friendly and always helpful. I could get on the line when I needed too and they were patient with me too. The only other thing I ran into that was different that Hi Tech Motorsports helped me out with when we were dyno tuning the car was adding the Digital 6 box back into the system with the HEI setup. There was some unclear instructions there from my perspective. I'm usually pretty good at reading diagrams but maybe I missed the boat on that one. Something to look into I guess.

[Derekk]

Thank you for the feedback. Our injectors are rated at 43.5 psi using a .5 BSFC. While this is a guide, things change...Nitrous engines typically run in the .4-.45 BSFC, and boosted engines as high as .65-.7 BSCF. Then you have the rail pressure which can enlarge an injector. So I feel that we could probably do an injector calculator on our website to assist. When in doubt, call us. We are here 8AM-6PM Monday through Friday, and 9AM-3PM on Saturdays.

[carbuff]

Hi Derek (or anyone else who knows),

I'm about to install my EFI system on my LS2 setup. From what I gather, the harness kit does not include sensors for the water temp and IAT. Can you please suggest which sensors to use? The manual says that any sensor can be used, you just have to set the SW appropriately. However, I'm not sure whether there is a specific list of supported sensors, or perhaps "easier to use" ones?

I hope to have this done in the next 2 weeks, so any advice you can send would be appreciated!

Additionally, it appears that I can optionally monitor the fuel and oil pressure in the unit. Is there any functional use of those two inputs, or simply the ability to monitor them if I attach sensors? In other words, is there a 'shutdown' type mode if the oil pressure drops, or a way to trigger a warning light if the pressure is below a certain level?

Thanx!

[Derekk]

Hi Derek (or anyone else who knows),

I'm about to install my EFI system on my LS2 setup. From what I gather, the harness kit does not include sensors for the water temp and IAT. Can you please suggest which sensors to use? The manual says that any sensor can be used, you just have to set the SW appropriately. However, I'm not sure whether there is a specific list of supported sensors, or perhaps "easier to use" ones?

I hope to have this done in the next 2 weeks, so any advice you can send would be appreciated!

Additionally, it appears that I can optionally monitor the fuel and oil pressure in the unit. Is there any functional use of those two inputs, or simply the ability to monitor them if I attach sensors? In other words, is there a 'shutdown' type mode if the oil pressure drops, or a way to trigger a warning light if the pressure is below a certain level?

Thanx!

I suggest using the factory LS2 IAT, and CTS sensor for your application. Once installed, you will select the LS sensors in the drop down menu(s). These should be plug n play with your harness as well, otherwise you would need to change the connectors. When using the fuel/oil pressure transducers, you will have the ability to program a warning light output, or failsafe should the pressure drop below the rating you choose. Personally I run as many sensors as possible to have as much data as possible, and have the two step activated when oil pressure/fuel pressure fall below their recommended ranges. Best of luck with the install. If you need anything else, feel free to ask. Thanks - Derek

[carbuff]

Thanx Derek, I will hunt for those. You wouldn't happen to have part numbers, would you? :)

Also, do I similarly need an LS2 MAP sensor for this setup?

[Derekk]

I'm sorry, I don't have the OE numbers, and yes, you would use the factory LS2 MAP as long as your combo is naturally aspirated.

[sccacuda]

Hi Derek (or anyone else who knows),

I'm about to install my EFI system on my LS2 setup. From what I gather, the harness kit does not include sensors for the water temp and IAT. Can you please suggest which sensors to use? The manual says that any sensor can be used, you just have to set the SW appropriately. However, I'm not sure whether there is a specific list of supported sensors, or perhaps "easier to use" ones?

I hope to have this done in the next 2 weeks, so any advice you can send would be appreciated!

Additionally, it appears that I can optionally monitor the fuel and oil pressure in the unit. Is there any functional use of those two inputs, or simply the ability to monitor them if I attach sensors? In other words, is there a 'shutdown' type mode if the oil pressure drops, or a way to trigger a warning light if the pressure is below a certain level?

Thanx!

You can shutdown or trigger anything on all your sensors. Here is a screen shot I took for you. Just tell it what you want it to do!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/file_zpse8fcf135-1.jpg

[carbuff]

I laid my harness out today and connected to the sensors / injectors / ignition for my engine. I have a few more questions. :)

Does the HP EFI / LS2 harness support controlling electric fans? Do I need to use 2 programmable outputs for this function, or am I missing something else in the harness? I read through the Wiring Manual (http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/199R10555rev3.pdf) document, and I didn't find anything about fans...

My engine does not have knock sensors currently installed. The harness does have connectors for them. As a general rule, do you recommend using them? I'm unclear on whether it's as simple as purchasing a pair of sensors and screwing (torquing) them into the block / connecting the harness, or is there 'tuning' of the sensors to do?

Then I found the following notice while searching for info today:

Note regarding Holley GM LSx with front mounted camshaft sensors (http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10597rev2.pdf)

Two things affect me from that (my harness was purchased before the March 2012 date):

- Can I just change the cam-sensor connector on my harness to plug directly into the cam sensor? I don't have the OEM 'sub harness' shown in that picture... :( That would be much easier that acquiring the OEM piece and adding another pair of connectors to the setup...

- Would it be possible for me to add the tach output from the ECU to drive my tach? I have no idea how I will send a signal to the tach otherwise. Is there any chance I could get you guys to send me a wire with the appropriate end on it if it's just a matter of adding a single wire to the harness? I have a feeling, based on reading the schematic, that I just need to add a pin/wire to connector P1A, pin A28, but I definitely need confirmation on this! :)

I appreciate any help / answers! I'm getting closer to trying to fire this thing up...

[Derekk]

I laid my harness out today and connected to the sensors / injectors / ignition for my engine. I have a few more questions. :)

Does the HP EFI / LS2 harness support controlling electric fans? Do I need to use 2 programmable outputs for this function, or am I missing something else in the harness? I read through the Wiring Manual (http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/199R10555rev3.pdf) document, and I didn't find anything about fans...

Yes that harness (just like the other engine harness's) have a provision for 4 inputs/4 outputs. To make wiring easier, I suggest the use of I/O harness 558-400. It will plug into the I/O connector on the engine harness.

My engine does not have knock sensors currently installed. The harness does have connectors for them. As a general rule, do you recommend using them? I'm unclear on whether it's as simple as purchasing a pair of sensors and screwing (torquing) them into the block / connecting the harness, or is there 'tuning' of the sensors to do? On an engine that is subject to boost, or nitrous, I run them. If it is simply a N/A engine, I don't deem them as a necessity. When they are used, the end user/tuner must configure the sensor type, and sensitivity. There is not a 1 size fit's all canned setting for these.

Then I found the following notice while searching for info today:

Note regarding Holley GM LSx with front mounted camshaft sensors (http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10597rev2.pdf)

Two things affect me from that (my harness was purchased before the March 2012 date):

- Can I just change the cam-sensor connector on my harness to plug directly into the cam sensor? I don't have the OEM 'sub harness' shown in that picture... :( That would be much easier that acquiring the OEM piece and adding another pair of connectors to the setup... You can change the connector, however be aware that the OEM extension harness swapped the pin locations on A & C.

- Would it be possible for me to add the tach output from the ECU to drive my tach? I have no idea how I will send a signal to the tach otherwise. Is there any chance I could get you guys to send me a wire with the appropriate end on it if it's just a matter of adding a single wire to the harness? I have a feeling, based on reading the schematic, that I just need to add a pin/wire to connector P1A, pin A28, but I definitely need confirmation on this! :) You are correct on the A28 pin location for a tach output. If your harness has the yellow wire in the A1 location, just relocate it to A28. The A1 terminal is not used on LS applications.

I appreciate any help / answers! I'm getting closer to trying to fire this thing up.

[riles]

Derek,
I have a ford 331 w/ BG 750 speed demon and edelbrock victor manifold , in the 450-460hp range, tied into T56 trans. We'll be using an aeromtive stealth fuel cell w/ the eliminator pump. Was very interested in the Terminator EFI. Any suggestions on converting to the EFI.
Also, any idea on when this will be available?

[Derekk]

Derek,
I have a ford 331 w/ BG 750 speed demon and edelbrock victor manifold , in the 450-460hp range, tied into T56 trans. We'll be using an aeromtive stealth fuel cell w/ the eliminator pump. Was very interested in the Terminator EFI. Any suggestions on converting to the EFI.
Also, any idea on when this will be available?

The Terminator will be a really nice TBI system. It should be out next month according to product management. The eliminator pump may be overkill, but should accomodate anything you throw at it in a TBI application. To make the most out of your setup, I'd consider a TFI distributor, so that you can let the ECU control timing.

[carbuff]

Thanx Derek! I will tackle all of this this coming weekend. Hope to start it up within a couple of weeks.

[Derekk]

Keep me posted. Send me a link to pics as well!

[SDMAN]

I am at the point in my build where I need to decide what EFI setup to go with. A lot of people are recommending the Holley Dominator EFI system to me. And I have looked it (and other brands) over. Originally I was seriously considering brand F. However, after additional research I am now convinced that brand H is a better decision for me. I do have some questions about the add on 5.7" display. Not so much as the programming input device, though not having to connect a laptop to tune is a nice feature. I am looking for more info into using the screen as a gauge display. Have seen some pics of it being used this way and curious to know more about it.

[Derekk]

I am at the point in my build where I need to decide what EFI setup to go with. A lot of people are recommending the Holley Dominator EFI system to me. And I have looked it (and other brands) over. Originally I was seriously considering brand F. However, after additional research I am now convinced that brand H is a better decision for me. I do have some questions about the add on 5.7" display. Not so much as the programming input device, though not having to connect a laptop to tune is a nice feature. I am looking for more info into using the screen as a gauge display. Have seen some pics of it being used this way and curious to know more about it.
Here is a link to a thread with the TS installed... http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=556853

[alky]

Aloha Derek, on the Dominator does the transmission controller have a self learn feature also?
This would be for a BBC 540, 4L80e set up
Thanks

[SDMAN]

Here is a link to a thread with the TS installed... http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=556853

Perfect. So lets say I plan on using the screen with the 6 analog gauges. Are there multiple screens available with this same layout? Example. One screen with 2 A/F, oil press, oil temp, water temp and volts. Another screen with 2 A/F, F and R brake press, trans temp and diff temp?

[64duece]

Aloha Derek, on the Dominator does the transmission controller have a self learn feature also?
This would be for a BBC 540, 4L80e set up
Thanks

The only table that "self learns" if the main fuel table. The transmission control section is tuned via basic graphs in TPS vs Speed or Map vs Speed for part throttle shifts. WOT is done via RPM shift point. TCC has a slew of parameters to control what gear, load and how it apply/release is handled. All can be done on the fly.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[64duece]

Perfect. So lets say I plan on using the screen with the 6 analog gauges. Are there multiple screens available with this same layout? Example. One screen with 2 A/F, oil press, oil temp, water temp and volts. Another screen with 2 A/F, F and R brake press, trans temp and diff temp?

There a (2) gauge views with the (6) analog gauges that can be setup independently. However, only certain inputs may be selected as gauges. You would use this for your first example as those inputs are available. There are (4) views with (2) analog gauges and a datamonitor which displays basic values for added channels such as brake pressure, trans/diff temp. A nice feature of the datamonitor is the backround can be set to change from black to yellow (caution) or red (warning) when these are setup. Makes seeing an issue a glance away.... Finally there are (2) Racepak style which are digital type w/ blue screen backround. Again, only certain inputs may be selected for these gauges. The color of the digital value changes when caution/warnings levels are reached

Analog Gauges
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130317_095104_zps149dc1be-1.jpg

Analog w/ Data Monitor
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130317_095141_zps0974b7b8-1.jpg

"Racepak Type"
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130317_095203_zps66f9df91-1.jpg

Selection Screen
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130317_095125_zpsf858330c-1.jpg

[SDMAN]

[QUOTE=64duece;978334]There a (2) gauge views with the (6) analog gauges that can be setup independently. However, only certain inputs may be selected as gauges. You would use this for your first example as those inputs are available. There are (4) views with (2) analog gauges and a datamonitor which displays basic values for added channels such as brake pressure, trans/diff temp. A nice feature of the datamonitor is the backround can be set to change from black to yellow (caution) or red (warning) when these are setup. Makes seeing an issue a glance away.... Finally there are (2) Racepak style which are digital type w/ blue screen backround. Again, only certain inputs may be selected for these gauges. The color of the digital value changes when caution/warnings levels are reached

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
OK. 64duece, that helps a ton. Thanks. This display will definitely work for everything I would like to do.

[alky]

Thanks for the info on Trans control Dennis

[carbuff]

- Would it be possible for me to add the tach output from the ECU to drive my tach? I have no idea how I will send a signal to the tach otherwise. Is there any chance I could get you guys to send me a wire with the appropriate end on it if it's just a matter of adding a single wire to the harness? I have a feeling, based on reading the schematic, that I just need to add a pin/wire to connector P1A, pin A28, but I definitely need confirmation on this! :) You are correct on the A28 pin location for a tach output. If your harness has the yellow wire in the A1 location, just relocate it to A28. The A1 terminal is not used on LS applications.


Derek,

I looked at this over the weekend. Before I go digging with various tools, is there any particular trick to removing the pin from the A1 location? Any special tool required, or something simple which I can do?

Thanx!

[64duece]

You only need to unseat the white lock on the connector. Small white bar...push with a paperclip or small flat screwdriver. Remove pin by giving a mild tug...insert in new location and relock.

[Derekk]

Derek,

I looked at this over the weekend. Before I go digging with various tools, is there any particular trick to removing the pin from the A1 location? Any special tool required, or something simple which I can do?

Thanx!

On the tyco connector (ecu connector), push the white locking pin down (long white single detent). When you pull the pin out, and relocate, simply push the locking pins (two short detents) back down, and the pins are secured.

[carbuff]

Thanx guys! I'll give it a shot when I'm at the car tomorrow or Wednesday...

[carbuff]

You only need to unseat the white lock on the connector. Small white bar...push with a paperclip or small flat screwdriver. Remove pin by giving a mild tug...insert in new location and relock.


On the tyco connector (ecu connector), push the white locking pin down (long white single detent). When you pull the pin out, and relocate, simply push the locking pins (two short detents) back down, and the pins are secured.

Guys,

Thanx for the tips. I was able to move the A1 pin/wire to the A28 location. The wire didn't want to push all the way in at first, but I was able to get it in there and locked. One more step down! :)

Back to the fans for a minute. I was looking at wiring up my fan relays last night. I read through the Wiring Diagram document again, but I'm still a bit confused. Can I use any of the 4 outputs to drive a negative trigger to my relays? Or are only certain ones capable of controlling a negative-active relay? The Wiring Diagram manual section on the Outputs describes the possible pin features, but what isn't completely clear is whether I can set each I/O to be in a specific mode?

I downloaded the HP EFI 2.0 software and was trying to experiment inside of that, but I cannot figure out how the 'pin map' function works. It says to Drag and Drop I/O to available pins, but I cannot click on anything to drag anything when I have the Pin Map open. :\ I'm missing something obvious I'm sure...

Outputs 1 and 2 have (H, P+) beside their names in the wiring diagram. Does that mean that those 2 can only drive +12V outputs, and not control the negative side of a relay?

Similarly, outputs 3 and 4 have (G, P-) beside their names. Does that mean they can only drive the ground side of a relay?

I want to make sure before I start hard wiring anything. I had the impression that all 4 outputs could be used for either polarity, but it seems that may not be true... If the above is true, then I'll be using outputs 3 and 4 for my fan controls, to ground the negative side of my relays. And then I need to know how to tell the software to use those 2 particular outputs for fan control...

[carbuff]

D'oh! I played with it some more, and may have found the trick.

The fans were not enabled in the Basic I/O window. Once I enabled them, they appear in the Available Outputs window of the Pin Map. And it does appear that I can only assign them to the outputs 3 and 4 since I have them specified as grounds...

Related question is whether I can use one of the inputs from the AC pressure switch to enable the fans. I see an AC functionality, called AC Kick, and I've enabled that. But that's just for IAC. The A/C Shutdown feature appears to allow me to disable the AC for various reasons. But I don't see a connection between the AC input and the Fan control?

Thanx again...

[64duece]

Yep, Pinmapping is made to be pretty easy once you understand the letters for I/O.

I typically would trigger the fan control relay with the compressor clutch 12V feed. Using an adjacent relay that triggers to ground which will invert your signal. Pair this with the ECU ground trigger and your done. If you choose 12V trigger you wouldn't need this extra relay.


D'oh! I played with it some more, and may have found the trick.

The fans were not enabled in the Basic I/O window. Once I enabled them, they appear in the Available Outputs window of the Pin Map. And it does appear that I can only assign them to the outputs 3 and 4 since I have them specified as grounds...

Related question is whether I can use one of the inputs from the AC pressure switch to enable the fans. I see an AC functionality, called AC Kick, and I've enabled that. But that's just for IAC. The A/C Shutdown feature appears to allow me to disable the AC for various reasons. But I don't see a connection between the AC input and the Fan control?

Thanx again...

[alky]

Hi anyone out there plug in a full windows tablet like the Dell XPS 10 to their Holley efi?
It has a full size USB and seems it would work.
Buy a nice car tablet mount and you got a cool set up.......

[carbuff]

Yep, Pinmapping is made to be pretty easy once you understand the letters for I/O.

I typically would trigger the fan control relay with the compressor clutch 12V feed. Using an adjacent relay that triggers to ground which will invert your signal. Pair this with the ECU ground trigger and your done. If you choose 12V trigger you wouldn't need this extra relay.

If I'm following you correctly, you are saying that the HP EFI CANNOT directly enable the fans by taking the AC inputs and using them as part of the Fan Control equation?

I had the impression that the system was configurable to allow this sort of functionality. Sounds like I was wrong. :(

I can certainly do exactly what you described with the extra relay, and that was my original plan, but it seems like having the HP EFI there with it's general purpose inputs and outputs would have allowed me to control the fans completely within without the need for the extra external wiring. Disappointed to hear that's not the case...

Appreciate the insight!

[64duece]

You can take an input and use it to trigger an output however, many people dont.wanna tie up I/O because theyre limited so I figured I'd offer a cheap solution that keeps wiring up front.

[shane38]

any updates on the Holley Terminator Throttle body??

[Derekk]

any updates on the Holley Terminator Throttle body??

Still on Schedule for the end of this month from what I've been told. When it's available, you will see a price appear on the website.

[shane38]

Still on Schedule for the end of this month from what I've been told. When it's available, you will see a price appear on the website.

thanks so much!
ready to order one!!

[carbuff]

Well, we got her started yesterday! I have a lot to learn about using the Holley SW, I was struggling through it trying to monitor and set features while watching gauges and the engine itself. But after sitting for over 2 years, it fired right up (once we had oil pressure).

I definitely need to work on the IAC settings, it's keeping the engine speed up too high when you let off the gas.

Quick video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRb34ez0a3I&feature=youtube_gdata_player

[Derekk]

Awesome. Glad you have it running.

[alky]

Where is the optimal place to install the IAT sensor?
The two places I'm thinking of installing is..

Into the back side of the elbow plenum.
Or
In the up pipe between the filter and the throttle body

Thanks for your input

[Derekk]

Where is the optimal place to install the IAT sensor?
The two places I'm thinking of installing is..

Into the back side of the elbow plenum.
Or
In the up pipe between the filter and the throttle body

Thanks for your input

Either one of those places will work. I personally try to keep it pre-throttle body, so it measures the air temp as it enters the throttle body.

[SDMAN]

I apologize if this has already been covered. I am definitely sold on the Dominator EFI for my build. And I have had great support getting all my questions answered as well as users sending me pics of screens along with the 'how to details'. It really made the education on the fuel injection/gauges quick and clear.

But there is one more thing I am thinking about using this box for. I am getting ready to have a 4L80E built, and I know there is a trans controller feature in this box. While I am considering a full manual 4L80E, I haven't as yet decided to go that way, and would like to get some info on the features of the trans controller portion. Ideally I would be able to flip between full auto and full manual, but I don't really know if that is possible.

[SShep71]

Derek,
I was wondering if any of the EFI kits are compatible with blown through yet? I had talked to a Holley tech a year or so ago and he told me "it was in the works" did that ever come around? I would love to try to put a turbo on one of the efi kits.

[Derekk]

SDMAN - There is a parameter than can be enabled in the transmission control ICF. When this is enabled, the auto function is disabled, leaving you full manual control. When enabled, it creates an input. Connect the wire to a switch that can turn on/off. Pretty easy to set up.

SShep71 - At this time, we have not released a TBI assembly that has been blow thru tested. Terminator EFI was developed to offer the end user a great way to convert from carburetion. The injectors that are included can support 600HP in naturally aspirated form. If someone is making 500HP or less, I feel you can make the Terminator work. Anything over that, and the end user should be looking at a MPFI system. In conclusion, we do not offer a TBI blow thru injection to support big power at this time. I will also state, that support for the late model HEMI, and Ford Modular Engines are at the top of priorities.

[carbuff]

Derek,

I thought I understood how to make this work, but apparently I was wrong. I could use some help!

I'm trying to generate my own fan control signals. I'm doing this because I want to force the fans on when the AC is on. I use 1 input for the AC Kick function, and I'm using that signal, combined with some others, to generate an AC Compressor Enable output. That works great.

What I cannot do is combine the AC Kick input with the CTS levels to generate a fan enable. In the Configuration screen for the Outputs, I want to select the AC Kick as a switched input trigger, then use the CTS as a Sensor Input Trigger. As best I can tell, it seems to require BOTH of those to be active to generate an active output. What I want is EITHER of them to be active to generate the active output.

Is there a different way to do this which I'm missing? I cannot use the built in Basic I/O Fan controls, as those would be Linked Outputs, which also require all conditions to be met for the fans to be running. When I start my car, and it's hot outside, I want the fans running immediately to pull air across the condensor, even if the CTS isn't at the fan enable temps.

Suggestions? Preferrably one that doesn't require wiring changes? :-)

Thanx!

[hifi875]

I have the same issue. I just programmed my fan 1 to come on at 195 and fan 2 to come on at 210. Chances are that when you turn the a/c on the engine temperature will be warm anyway. I just put 2900 miles on my terminator system and ran the air everyday all day with no issues.

[carbuff]

I'm sure that would probably work, but it seems like I should be able to do this exactly the way I want. If I cannot do it in the ECU, I will wire the AC request signal into the FAN relays, but I'd really rather the ECU control it!

[SShep71]

Derek,
I do not plan on pushing past 550 hp. The injectors are listed as being 80Lb injectors, are they replaceable to accomodate a more adequate fuel system? If they are will the software be able to work effectively with the new injectors? I forgot to mention that this will be for a pontiac engine. I looked into the holley MPFI systems but I was never given clear information as to wether or not the MPFI system would work with the pontiac engine. I had looked into the 550-501 retrofit kit but like I said, I never got a solid response if it would work well with a blown through application.

[Derekk]

Derek,

I thought I understood how to make this work, but apparently I was wrong. I could use some help!

I'm trying to generate my own fan control signals. I'm doing this because I want to force the fans on when the AC is on. I use 1 input for the AC Kick function, and I'm using that signal, combined with some others, to generate an AC Compressor Enable output. That works great.

What I cannot do is combine the AC Kick input with the CTS levels to generate a fan enable. In the Configuration screen for the Outputs, I want to select the AC Kick as a switched input trigger, then use the CTS as a Sensor Input Trigger. As best I can tell, it seems to require BOTH of those to be active to generate an active output. What I want is EITHER of them to be active to generate the active output.

Is there a different way to do this which I'm missing? I cannot use the built in Basic I/O Fan controls, as those would be Linked Outputs, which also require all conditions to be met for the fans to be running. When I start my car, and it's hot outside, I want the fans running immediately to pull air across the condensor, even if the CTS isn't at the fan enable temps.

Suggestions? Preferrably one that doesn't require wiring changes? :-)

Thanx!

Are you wanting the fans to come on anytime the A/C is enabled, regardless of the CTS settings? Are you also wanting the fans to come on at a preset temp when the A/C is not activated?

[carbuff]

Are you wanting the fans to come on anytime the A/C is enabled, regardless of the CTS settings?

Yes


Are you also wanting the fans to come on at a preset temp when the A/C is not activated?

Yes

Those are exactly the 2 scenarios which I am trying to achieve...

[Derekk]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/FanWiring2_zpsec3e73d0-1.jpg (http://s1206.photobucket.com/user/dj94gt/media/EFI%20ScreenShots/FanWiring2_zpsec3e73d0.jpg.html)

I hope this helps. - Derek

[carbuff]

Derek,

Actually, I don't think that helps... I don't think the wiring of those 2 relays is correct. The diagram which I show below I think would solve my problem (it's logically different than yours), but my point was that I hoped to do this using the ECU, since I've already wrapped up my wiring.

Is there no way for me to tell the ECU to generate an output which is logically just an OR of either the (CTS > my selected temperature) OR the AC Kick Input? It seems that it's requiring both to be active instead of either for my output to work...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/FanWiring_zps09c60341-1.gif (http://s100.photobucket.com/user/carbuff69/media/1971%20Firebird%20Formula%20-%20Project%20TOW/FanWiring_zps09c60341.gif.html)

[Derekk]

No way for the ecu to handle the chore in the fashion you request.

[James OLC]

I just wanted to take a quick moment to thank Derek and Holley for taking the time to monitor this thread and provided timely tech assistance and advice directly on the forum. There aren't a lot of manufacturers who take the time to be as responsive as Derek has been - it's great to see.

I'll be switching the OneLapCamaro over to Holley's Dominator EFI as soon as we get the new engine in place and look forward to bothering Derek on a regular basis as we get things set up!

[Derekk]

I just wanted to take a quick moment to thank Derek and Holley for taking the time to monitor this thread and provided timely tech assistance and advice directly on the forum. There aren't a lot of manufacturers who take the time to be as responsive as Derek has been - it's great to see.

I'll be switching the OneLapCamaro over to Holley's Dominator EFI as soon as we get the new engine in place and look forward to bothering Derek on a regular basis as we get things set up!

Thanks for the compliments, and we are striving to be a leader in EFI on many levels. Customer/Technical service is one of the largest priorities. Feel free to bother me anytime :)

[wadem]

Derek is an awesome guy for sure and passionate about what he does,something rare in this industry these days.Next time im back up your way Derek we need to meet back up again and put down some beer at the bar,hopefully it wont be snowing like the last time when me and Bob was there

[Derekk]

Derek is an awesome guy for sure and passionate about what he does,something rare in this industry these days.Next time im back up your way Derek we need to meet back up again and put down some beer at the bar,hopefully it wont be snowing like the last time when me and Bob was there

For sure we need to throw down a little beer. Not sure what Bob has said about me, but I try to do everything to the best of my ability. A customers car is treated as my own. If you want 1/2 As&ed work, I don't have time to work for you, or assist. That simple. The efi components are delicate, and require professional installations. You guys been racing any? I've been seeing pics of the shop stuffed full of cars lol.

[sccacuda]

Derek,

Actually, I don't think that helps... I don't think the wiring of those 2 relays is correct. The diagram which I show below I think would solve my problem (it's logically different than yours), but my point was that I hoped to do this using the ECU, since I've already wrapped up my wiring.

Is there no way for me to tell the ECU to generate an output which is logically just an OR of either the (CTS > my selected temperature) OR the AC Kick Input? It seems that it's requiring both to be active instead of either for my output to work...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/FanWiring_zps09c60341-1.gif (http://s100.photobucket.com/user/carbuff69/media/1971%20Firebird%20Formula%20-%20Project%20TOW/FanWiring_zps09c60341.gif.html)

Both diagrams achieve the same thing. I personally prefer Derek's because you are using the NO and NC contacts of relay #2. If one relay fails, you'd still have fan from a/c or temp. If you lose a relay in yours, neither input works. Just my .02.

[wadem]

For sure we need to throw down a little beer. Not sure what Bob has said about me, but I try to do everything to the best of my ability. A customers car is treated as my own. If you want 1/2 As&ed work, I don't have time to work for you, or assist. That simple. The efi components are delicate, and require professional installations. You guys been racing any? I've been seeing pics of the shop stuffed full of cars lol.

Bob honestly says nothing but good about you,i know if you ever move to Ga you dont have to look for employment,lol.And yes the shop is very busy right now both with tuning and installs.keep up the good work man and keep me posted on this EFI system as i am kinda interested in getting one for my car.

As far as racing goes we have been down making some updates to bobs car but are planning on running bowling green nmca i think,and im going to try to come up for ls fest and possibly drag week to watch in september

[carbuff]

Both diagrams achieve the same thing. I personally prefer Derek's because you are using the NO and NC contacts of relay #2. If one relay fails, you'd still have fan from a/c or temp. If you lose a relay in yours, neither input works. Just my .02.

I went back through it again, and I now see how Derek's works, and I agree with you. I missed something the first time, and couldn't come up with why it would work. I think I was looking at the second relay (controlled by the ECU) backwards.

I rewired mine last night, and I finally have it all working now. Phew!

Now for some tuning! I'm sure I'll have more questions in that area soon... And I'll agree with the others' sentiments. It's always appreciated with companies get out and offer support in an environment like this!

[Kevin Grimes]

So this is my set up the Stealth EFI, This 383 is built around 500 HP 500+ tq. It will be able to keep up as advertised?

[Derekk]

Wade, If I ever get full custody of my step son, we will probably be moving south. Just can't do it at this time. When you are ready for the Terminator EFI, call me. I'll see what we can do.

Kevin, you should be fine with the system. Let me know if you have any issues.

[James OLC]

Derek - probably a dumb question but is there a "preferable" IAC and/or TPS for use the the Dominator? We'll be using a Holley 112-576 90 mm Throttle Body and I figured it would be best to ask before assuming and buying the first ones that I find.
Thanks
James

[carbuff]

I discovered today the Datalog functionality of the Holley HP EFI. I hate to admit my ignorance, but until today, I have been using the 'Strip Chart' to watch the live logging, but I couldn't figure out how to save anything. So I finally decided that I should RTFM, and sure enough, I wasn't doing real logging. D'oh!

I came home after driving for about 30 minutes, and I've been analyzing my logged data. I have a lot of things to learn, but the basic tune seems to be mostly good now. My learn values are low, and the car is driving well! I'm still tweaking AFR's and the Spark table, as I have a 'heavy load at low RPM' knock to fix. I'm also getting some knock retard that I don't believe is 'real', so I need to tune that some also.

I really like the ability to setup my own datalog configurations to display the data. I'm finding that very helpful. I discovered tonight (and posted in another thread) that I was losing fuel pressure simply because I was logging and noticed an anomaly in my ignition timing. It's great that all of my inputs were captured and I could look through them to find the actual problem!

Thanx for a great product!

[65_LS1_T56]

X2 on such a great product. This is my first time experience with an aftermarket fuel injection and programming one. I completely rewired my whole car, put a fuel system in it, bent all the stainless lines, installed the HP and wrote a base tune, upgraded the firmware, dumped the tune and the motor fired the first time! Simply amazing. So many people are scared of the "complexity" of fuel injection, well that simple is not true anymore with a product like Holley's.
I really want to get tuning mine but have a few things to deal with first, so I may jump in here too with a few questions soon. But so far, so good. Next up, I want to play with the PWM output for the fuel pump and fan, right now I'm using the standard +12v out for the fuel pump (green loose wire) and the fan is on all the time to make sure it doesn't over heat sitting still. This is fun stuff.

[Derekk]

Derek - probably a dumb question but is there a "preferable" IAC and/or TPS for use the the Dominator? We'll be using a Holley 112-576 90 mm Throttle Body and I figured it would be best to ask before assuming and buying the first ones that I find.
Thanks
James

Factory LS2 TPS, and IAC should be used.

[James OLC]

Thanks Derek - we'll start on the install of the Dominator EFI this weekend and will post some updates as we go - looking forward to it!

[Todd in Vancouver]

Please do keep posting as I too will be getting the newer Holley version for my Stealth Ram. Derek was great walking me through what I will need to do to upgrade from the C950 my car has to an easier, better system. I'm hoping to be at that point later this year and the help has been much appreciated Derek and I will be getting my new electronics from Holley.


78889

[Derekk]

Thanks guys. I'm here if you have questions. Keep posting pics. It helps my day move along :)

[carbuff]

Here's one. :) I'm debugging a problem with dropping fuel pressure, but I like how I can group the data any way I want from the Datalogger! I'm finding this pretty helpful.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/fp2_zps60d065c5-1.gif (http://s100.photobucket.com/user/carbuff69/media/1971%20Firebird%20Formula%20-%20Project%20TOW/fp2_zps60d065c5.gif.html)

[carbuff]

Derek,

I posted the picture above to show how I'm using the Datalogging, but I'm wondering if you, or anyone else, can educate me on something...

When I look at this data, I notice that my Injector Pulse Width is jumping up to about 16mS when I go full throttle, and it stays there throughout the run. I don't see any settings in the software which control the max Injector Pulse time, so I'm wondering where that comes from? Is there a fixed duty cycle programmed into the system?

Doing some math, at 6500 rpm, I calculate that each 2 crank revolutions (giving 1 injection and compression cycle) would take about 18.5mS. I hear 80% duty cycle as a commonly referenced value, so 80% of 18.5 would be about 14.8mS. 90% jumps to 16.6mS, which is higher than I ever see.

So can you explain how the Injector Pulse width is calculated, and how the max limit is set?

Also, is there something in the system which tries to prevent the injectors from going static-open?

Similarly, can you explain why it jumps up to the full value even at low RPM and stays there throughout a run? Is that a function of the Target AFR values?

Thanx!

[Derekk]

could you email me your datalog, and global folder? I need to have all your information present to accurately diagnose what's happening.
[email protected]

[carbuff]

Email sent. Thanx Derek!

[James OLC]

More basic questions Derek...

1. The LS7 uses a different sized oil pressure sensor (larger diameter and different connector) than the other LS engines... The recommended Holley 554-102 uses an 1/8" npt fitting - do you suggest tracking down a reducer? Or is there an alternative sensor? Or should we change the harness end? What do you recommend to minimize potential issues?

2. What style knock sensors are recommended? I don't recognize the harness style from any LS application.

Thanks and again - sorry for the simple questions - just trying to make we get this right.

Thanks

James

[Derekk]

More basic questions Derek...

1. The LS7 uses a different sized oil pressure sensor (larger diameter and different connector) than the other LS engines... The recommended Holley 554-102 uses an 1/8" npt fitting - do you suggest tracking down a reducer? Or is there an alternative sensor? Or should we change the harness end? What do you recommend to minimize potential issues?
2. What style knock sensors are recommended? I don't recognize the harness style from any LS application.
Thanks and again - sorry for the simple questions - just trying to make we get this right.

Thanks

James

If possible, I suggest using the 554-102 transducer. That way one doesn't have to do a custom scaling in the software. If that can't be accomplished, I would change the connector on the harness, providing proper wiring techniques are used.
Knock sensors are up to the end user. The software essentially allows the use of almost anything. Sensitivity, and frequency must be programmed by the tuner.

[GBNL]

Im looking into getting the 5.7" screen p/n 553-103, but really would like a bigger screen. Is holley going to come out with a diffrent size anytime soon?

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Im looking into getting the 5.7" screen p/n 553-103, but really would like a bigger screen. Is holley going to come out with a diffrent size anytime soon?

They are redesigning the touchscreen/dash. Will it be released soon. I doubt it. Last I heard it was pushed towards the end of the year.

[Nothingface5384]

pc lost my CD where may I download the new version to playwith on pc?
never installed mine yet fyi

[sccacuda]

pc lost my CD where may I download the new version to playwith on pc?
never installed mine yet fyi


http://www.holley.com/TechService/Library.asp

Click Fuel Injection button on right and downloads are all listed.

[1967c10]

I have Holley HP on my daily driver truck and I am very happy with it. It is a 350csb with TPI. Having some small issues to dail in my coldstart (not able to keep it running without some throttle first 30secs) Current working on a 69 Camaro that I am planning a LS machine in. I think I will go for a Dominator ECU on this one.I really like how userfriendly Holley EFI is.

[woody80z28]

http://www.holley.com/TechService/Library.asp

Click Fuel Injection button on right and downloads are all listed.

I downloaded the new software and it's very easy to use. I would like to try out the inputs/outputs a little bit before I buy the harness kit to convert from my Accel. The software download seems to be missing this stuff. Is this something I can get to see how it works before I buy?

[1967c10]

I downloaded the new software and it's very easy to use. I would like to try out the inputs/outputs a little bit before I buy the harness kit to convert from my Accel. The software download seems to be missing this stuff. Is this something I can get to see how it works before I buy?



Try the pin-map button on the top of the main screen. Should be there :-)

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

I downloaded the new software and it's very easy to use. I would like to try out the inputs/outputs a little bit before I buy the harness kit to convert from my Accel. The software download seems to be missing this stuff. Is this something I can get to see how it works before I buy?
If you are wanting to play with inputs and outputs, please add the input/output icf. If you don't know how, go to help, contents, then search for inputs individual configuration library. There are a few basic I/o listed under system parameter for iac kick, 2nd fuel pump, electric fans, etc. since you asked specifically about the I/o, I would add the icf. That way you can play with setting up a sensor or device on any voltage scale, thermistor, etc

[TonyV]

got a question regarding gauges..i'm using the HP EFI and would like to use aftermarket gauges (specifically i don't use holley gauges) what do i need to be aware of or is this an option at all?

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Are you wanting to use mechanical or electrical? If electrical, it's not suggested to splice into the sensors however it can be done for the 0-5v units. Thermistor style should not be spliced at all. Doing any of this is against holleys suggestion. If you do something wrong, good luck with the warranty process should an ecu failure occur

[TonyV]

OK please be patient with me, i've got more questions:
Just to baseline everyone, its going in a 67 camaro LSX454 with T56. The EFI is currently at the engine builder because we're going to dyno it after the build so all i have is the paperwork.
Here's all the gauges i'm expecting to use in the car
Speedo
Tach
A/F
Volt
Fuel level (direct to tank 0 - 90 ohms)
Water Temp
Oil Temp
Oil Pressure
Fuel Pressure
I'd like to use the HP signal because its already there and conditioned but you mention only 0 -5v signals are doable.....which signals from my above list are 0 -5v? I'm assuming the others i'll just have to run a separate transducer to get my signal to the gauge, kinda like piggy backing the Holley harnesses. Unless Holley comes up with some better looking gauges in a couple months......just IMO

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

You should contact the gauge manufacturer and get the sending unit information for each gauge. Then we can compare. Several of the auto meter gauges use a 0-4v sending unit.

[carbuff]

I recently installed the HP EFI in my car with an LS, and I used a complete set of SpeedHut gauges. I did NOT integrate most of the gauges into the HP EFI. The one that I did was the tach. There is an output from the ECU which can drive a tach, so that made life a little easier. From memory, here is how I recall setting up my gauges:

Speedo - direct to the T56 Magnum
Tach - driven from the HP EFI
Voltage - connected to my bulkhead in the cab, the other side of which is connected to the starter and alternator
Oil Pressure - I teed into the feed from the block. The Speedhut sensor was connected to 1 side and them to the gauge, and a Holley pressure sensor (don't recall the part number, but it's about $90 per sensor as I recall) was connected to the other. This is a case where you MIGHT be able to just use 1, but I didn't try.
Oil Temp - SpeedHut sensor installed into the oil pan (doesn't go to the ECU)
Coolant temp - SpeedHut sensor installed in one cylinder head, Holley sensor installed into the other one (again, didn't try to share this one)
Fuel Pressure - Used an AN fitting at the input to my fuel rail to tap in the Speedhut sensor for my gauge, and used another one on the other end of my rail to install the second of those $90 Holley sensors to run to the ECU.

So, I did not attempt to share, but there wasn't a lot of trouble to run these extra sensors.

You can almost see the 2 oil pressure sensors and one of the fuel pressure sensors in this picture:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/IMG_20130409_201009_small_zps79ab9243-1.jpg (http://s100.photobucket.com/user/carbuff69/media/1971%20Firebird%20Formula%20-%20Project%20TOW/IMG_20130409_201009_small_zps79ab9243.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/IMG_20130409_201003_small_zpsc3a1596b-1.jpg (http://s100.photobucket.com/user/carbuff69/media/1971%20Firebird%20Formula%20-%20Project%20TOW/IMG_20130409_201003_small_zpsc3a1596b.jpg.html)

Hope this helps some...

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Pin location A28 is the wire to use for the tach when using the ls1/ls2 harnesses.

[TonyV]

I recently installed the HP EFI in my car with an LS, and I used a complete set of SpeedHut gauges. I did NOT integrate most of the gauges into the HP EFI. The one that I did was the tach. There is an output from the ECU which can drive a tach, so that made life a little easier. From memory, here is how I recall setting up my gauges:

Speedo - direct to the T56 Magnum
Tach - driven from the HP EFI
Voltage - connected to my bulkhead in the cab, the other side of which is connected to the starter and alternator
Oil Pressure - I teed into the feed from the block. The Speedhut sensor was connected to 1 side and them to the gauge, and a Holley pressure sensor (don't recall the part number, but it's about $90 per sensor as I recall) was connected to the other. This is a case where you MIGHT be able to just use 1, but I didn't try.
Oil Temp - SpeedHut sensor installed into the oil pan (doesn't go to the ECU)
Coolant temp - SpeedHut sensor installed in one cylinder head, Holley sensor installed into the other one (again, didn't try to share this one)
Fuel Pressure - Used an AN fitting at the input to my fuel rail to tap in the Speedhut sensor for my gauge, and used another one on the other end of my rail to install the second of those $90 Holley sensors to run to the ECU.

So, I did not attempt to share, but there wasn't a lot of trouble to run these extra sensors.

You can almost see the 2 oil pressure sensors and one of the fuel pressure sensors in this picture:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/IMG_20130409_201009_small_zps79ab9243-1.jpg (http://s100.photobucket.com/user/carbuff69/media/1971%20Firebird%20Formula%20-%20Project%20TOW/IMG_20130409_201009_small_zps79ab9243.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/IMG_20130409_201003_small_zpsc3a1596b-1.jpg (http://s100.photobucket.com/user/carbuff69/media/1971%20Firebird%20Formula%20-%20Project%20TOW/IMG_20130409_201003_small_zpsc3a1596b.jpg.html)

Hope this helps some...

Helps a bunch....really appreciate it...it seems i'll do the same although i want to run an A/F gauge which means additional sensor because i don't think i can tee that....

[woody80z28]

If you are wanting to play with inputs and outputs, please add the input/output icf. If you don't know how, go to help, contents, then search for inputs individual configuration library. There are a few basic I/o listed under system parameter for iac kick, 2nd fuel pump, electric fans, etc. since you asked specifically about the I/o, I would add the icf. That way you can play with setting up a sensor or device on any voltage scale, thermistor, etc

I tried to add a configuration and don't see any to choose from. It appears for an I/O it needs an .io file. Maybe these don't come with the online download?

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

When you go to the icf library, you must change the file type in the bottom bar of the window. For example, when you select the input output folder nothing will show. But when you select input/output in the file type you will now have an option appear

[riles]

Disregard , found my answer.

[65_LS1_T56]

I'm in the middle of a 5th gen Camaro fuel pump swap for my Chevelle. The previous setup was a small AC Delco electric pump, intank with an external bypass regulator and I just used the std fuel pump output (green wire). Since the Camaro pump modules are factory PWM controlled, I'd like to us the HP PWM outputs to control it. I have solid state relays inplace already, but my question is more on the HP EFI setup of the actual output.
Could I use the standard fuel pump output (green wire) as a triggered input for the PWM output? Or I see there is an option to select "Fuel PW" under sensor input triggers...what is fuel pw? It's my understanding that the standard fuel pump output (green wire) is a conditional output already, plus had the prime feature at key on, so using it as a safe input makes sense to me.

I have my electric fan using a PWM output successfully, but that uses CTS input for a trigger, pretty straight forward setup there.
Any recommendations would be appreciated!

[woody80z28]

When you go to the icf library, you must change the file type in the bottom bar of the window. For example, when you select the input output folder nothing will show. But when you select input/output in the file type you will now have an option appear

I don't find an ICF library at all. Just a folder, some DLLs and the EXE. Is there a place online do download the library? Thanks

[boostin05blacksti]

Alright putting the dominator in my 67 camaro. Lsx454, dbw .. Running the ls2 harness and dbw harness also. I tried to configure the tb to do the tps autoset but it errors every time. I tried all the Gm tb options.
I talked to Holley and the rep told me they will have to get with their engineer on Monday to see if they can give me the setting for my throttle body. Would anyone know where I can find these settings or have a way to figure out what they need to be. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you, Steven

[youngmuscle]

Guys,

Just a heads up for everyone. I was overwhelmed with price on the dominator set up and stressing I could get all the correct parts al le carte. Holley doesn't offer a simple dominator upgrade, if you want the dominator you have to do your own research etc. No issue with Holley however via email the part list the reps sent me was like 5 parts lol. There's WAY more to it (stuff you won't think of like gaskets, o2 bung, adapters etc). Maybe not a huge deal to you guys with a parts store down the road I guess, but mines a daily driver and I don't have that commodity so I need all the parts on hand for a weekend install.
Anyways----I asked very nicely for the inside scoop before committing so much money and Holley is working on a box that will add inputs/outputs to the HP! I just wanted a system with that capability in case I go twin turbo etc in the future and this will allow me to do all that and save a lot of money. Don't need the inputs/outputs now. So I'm going with the HP kit with tanks inc set up and XRP hoses and fittings. All under 4k. Mike at sk-speed hooked me up. Awesome guy. Only capabilities I'd lose is dual o2 sensors and trans control (have a manual). Saved a grand because of extra parts and the headache. Anyways, just wanted to spread the info to help before you commit to something you don't need. Hope it helps. Just finished parting everything out, so I can offer some insight if you guys need to know anything. Seems like an AWESOME system.

-Paul

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Guys,

Just a heads up for everyone. I was overwhelmed with price on the dominator set up and stressing I could get all the correct parts al le carte. Holley doesn't offer a simple dominator upgrade, if you want the dominator you have to do your own research etc. No issue with Holley however via email the part list the reps sent me was like 5 parts lol. There's WAY more to it (stuff you won't think of like gaskets, o2 bung, adapters etc). Maybe not a huge deal to you guys with a parts store down the road I guess, but mines a daily driver and I don't have that commodity so I need all the parts on hand for a weekend install.
Anyways----I asked very nicely for the inside scoop before committing so much money and Holley is working on a box that will add inputs/outputs to the HP! I just wanted a system with that capability in case I go twin turbo etc in the future and this will allow me to do all that and save a lot of money. Don't need the inputs/outputs now. So I'm going with the HP kit with tanks inc set up and XRP hoses and fittings. All under 4k. Mike at sk-speed hooked me up. Awesome guy. Only capabilities I'd lose is dual o2 sensors and trans control (have a manual). Saved a grand because of extra parts and the headache. Anyways, just wanted to spread the info to help before you commit to something you don't need. Hope it helps. Just finished parting everything out, so I can offer some insight if you guys need to know anything. Seems like an AWESOME system.

-Paul

I'm happy you reached out to a dealer that helped you get on board with a Holley EFI system. However I want to clarify something. The add on module/box to give the HP ECU more inputs/outputs hasn't been confirmed nor denied, and no definite date has been set. I asked about this very feature a week ago. To boot, the retail price gap from HP to dominator is $7xx.00 That is generally a 600-650 gap net price. I would almost say the add on module will be between $285-$475 if/when it becomes a reality. I'll try to reach out to my contacts to see if I can get a little more information one way or the other on these modules. You are correct it is an AWESOME system, and you'll love it. Just start with basics. Clean proper wiring, and follow the instructions inside the software.

[youngmuscle]

Dj,

Yeah, I don't want to jump the gun but it really does add up to more than just $700. If you were to actually write out all the parts and differences, buying separately really adds up. Many people are going dominator because of unknown future upgrades. Even $700 is a lot to invest "just because". Again the hp doesn't have dual o2 and the upgraded input box isn't definite but to me if Holley added it as an upgrade it would really help the consumer. Another sway for me, like I said, was the lack of information on choosing the dominator and all necessary parts. Either way, information is free and I thought it would add to a thoughtful discussion and maybe help more people than just myself. It will be an outstanding system either way. Btw, Any word on compatibility with MSD's new "brainwave" at sema or perhaps a similar product from Holley? Just curious. Hope I didn't "leak" any bad information, just would feel guilty keeping it to myself while others on the forum wrangle with the same issue I had.

-Paul

[Nothingface5384]

I almost got the dominator but to me only real difference was the ability to run 2 o2 sensors, trans ecu and driveby for gas pedal.. and what an extra set of injectors?
only thing that may have been worthwhile would be the dual wideband setup..wasnt worth it for me and my plans are a twin-turbo engine

hp to dominator, their isnt really a allot of different parts between the two, and you can by el carte through a board member here

https://www.pro-touring.com/members/6694-64duece
his homepage
http://mooreracecraft.com/

[youngmuscle]

I almost got the dominator but to me only real difference was the ability to run 2 o2 sensors, trans ecu and driveby for gas pedal.. and what an extra set of injectors?
only thing that may have been worthwhile would be the dual wideband setup..wasnt worth it for me and my plans are a twin-turbo engine

hp to dominator, their isnt really a allot of different parts between the two, and you can by el carte through a board member here

https://www.pro-touring.com/members/6694-64duece
his homepage
http://mooreracecraft.com/


Awesome. Yeah I'm considering turbos later so good to know the hp fits your needs. I figured I could swap the 02 sensor between the headers with every oil change if I went twins to ensure nothing fishy was going on. Eh, I'll cross that bridge when it comes. I just can't wait to get the hell outta here, back in Germany with a beer, some CCR and installing this system lol. I could barely spin the tires everything was so outta tune the month before I deployed when I got the car off the boat (timing etc) it's going to be like driving a whole different car. Also can't wait to tell you guys what my BBC gas mileage with my t56 is everyday lol. Might be able to have my cake and eat it too. Definitely excited

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Retail price from hp ecu to dominator ecu is $780 retail there's not a complete kit to compare hp to dominator because of the options. 90% of my hp customers with boosted or nitrous assisted engines call back to get a dominator ecu once they figure out what can be accomplished by using theat ecu. About 10% are 100% satisfied with the hp for their respective applications. Either way you'll love the system. For the unknowing or people such as yourself that can't sit online there is a much better alternative than sitting on hold for holleys tech line. Use their dealers! Go to Holley.com and hover your mouse over the "shop" tab. You will see an option for authorized Holley Efi dealers tuners and installation shops. Most of the dealers on there (myself included) will be happy to answer any/all questions you have, and have incentives to buy from that dealer. If anyone on here should have questions about a purchase please post up. I can't answer all internet questions as I do have work to perform and customers to support. But I try to pop in here often to lend a hand. I've not been to sema so I'll have to read up on the msd and get back to you.

[GBNL]

Any word on a bigger log screen yet ?

[sccacuda]

I think you should consider the Dominator for the I/O outputs available. You WILL use them as you figure out your combos and want to get more data and engine safeguards. I run a twin setup with a Dominator ECU. I'm running 16 injectors, two fuel pumps, and 8 EGT's for example. Each EGT is a separate channel and aside from tuning, each one can be configured to pull timing, add fuel, reduce boost, etc when my user programmed temperature is reached. As for the injectors, i don't have to compromise with a large injector that is difficult to modulate down for idle. I can have one set of injectors for driving and moderate boost, and bring on the second set seamlessly when duty cycle reaches a programmed threshold. Same with the fuel pump. You don't need to play with voltage to make a big pump work on a dual purpose car. I run twin Dominator pumps that are really two pumps in one, so call it four pumps. Each pump can be brought online as duty cycle demands, boost referenced, fuel trim, etc…

Your getting basically a Racepak data setup, transmission controller, boost controller, traction control controller with an engine management computer thrown in, that most importantly, all work together.

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Any word on a bigger log screen yet ?

Bigger log screen? If you're talking about the touch screen/dash it's coming mid year.

[mike92rs]

Let me start by saying this is the best investment in my g-machine. it is truly easy to install and get running.
I am getting lots of questions at the local car shows and encourge everyone to try it. also hats off to Summit Racing ofr there knolage and support during this excurtion into efi.
i would like now to find a source for fine tuning this system.

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Let me start by saying this is the best investment in my g-machine. it is truly easy to install and get running.
I am getting lots of questions at the local car shows and encourge everyone to try it. also hats off to Summit Racing ofr there knolage and support during this excurtion into efi.
i would like now to find a source for fine tuning this system.I'm surprised Summit was able to help. You must have asked basic questions. Buying through an EFI dealer would have netted better results for tips/tricks/fine tuning the system. I see you are in TX. It looks like KP Racing in the Houston area would be an authorized Holley dealer/tuner. Joe Honeycutt is one of the tuners there. Welcome to the Holley EFI community.

[Jetfixr320]

Self learning, is it better to get it tuned somewhere?

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Don't get hung up on the self learning. It will adjust the fuel map according to wideband O2 info and the target a/f ratio. But it can't adjust timing, cold start, hot start, tip in stumbles etc. if it runs perfect and drives great, leave it alone. If there are quirks you can't figure out, take it for a tune.

[nine lives johnny]

i would like to see an add on to record oil temps... and a new touch screen that dims the light. set it on blue "f1 style tach" flip it on at night, and get blinded hahah. other than that i love it!

[gray86hach]

You can add in oil temp just pick up coolant temp sensor wire it to a input and set up the dash to display it.

My mustang was set up this way.

Tim

[nine lives johnny]

oh cool! thanks man. so now the only thing i want to a dimmer switch on the screen lol.

[Alpina]

I have an 95 5.0 that I will be swapping into a earlier mustang. What part number Harness and ECU should I use. I'm not using any power adders at this time. But I may add a turbo at a later date.

thanks

Charles

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

I have an 95 5.0 that I will be swapping into a earlier mustang. What part number Harness and ECU should I use. I'm not using any power adders at this time. But I may add a turbo at a later date.

thanks

CharlesAlpina, if you would pm me your name, zipcode, and email address, I'll send you an estimate on what parts you need to make your vehicle run. Thanks - Derek

[keithq69]

Hi Derek.
I have an LS2 in my 69 with a T56.
I have the 58 tooth wheel and LS3 heads and front cover. I have the newer style DBW throttle body and stock LS3 injectors.

I currently have a stock GM computer and a brand new harness I was going to modify.
By the time I have the computer flashed and buy credits for tuning it'll be about $450 plus lots of time modifying the harness.
Can I buy the LS3 setup and run it without buying new injectors or throttle body?
Does your system run a MAF sensor?

Thanks.

Keith Quinn.

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Hi Derek.
I have an LS2 in my 69 with a T56.
I have the 58 tooth wheel and LS3 heads and front cover. I have the newer style DBW throttle body and stock LS3 injectors.

I currently have a stock GM computer and a brand new harness I was going to modify.
By the time I have the computer flashed and buy credits for tuning it'll be about $450 plus lots of time modifying the harness.
Can I buy the LS3 setup and run it without buying new injectors or throttle body?
Does your system run a MAF sensor?

Thanks.

Keith Quinn.

Hello Keith. First thanks for chiming in. We have components that will control your LS3. You do not have to purchase new injectors or throttle body. The Holley Dominator will control your factory dbw. I will need to verify the gm part number on the throttle body for 100% compatibility. Shouldn't be an issue though. As for MAF, the Holley Efi does not use mass air flow to make changes. You can tune in VE, speed density, alpha-n, or a combo mode (alpha n and speed density). Send me a pm with your combination, auxiliary devices (fans, pumps, sensors, etc) zip code, and email address. I'll send you the list of parts with pricing. If you have a 4l60/80e transmission be sure to include that as well.
Thanks- Derek

[Fillpot]

Guy's came in a little late on this but was wondering u can control your trans 4l60/70/80 etc right? THANKS!

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Guy's came in a little late on this but was wondering u can control your trans 4l60/70/80 etc right? THANKS!

You can control it with the dominator ecu.

[Blownchevelle68]

Hi Derek-

Great thread here, I've been researching EFI the last few months, but having hard time deciding which version, HP or Dominator. I have a '70 Chevelle with a BB 489 and TH400 as of now. Future plans include a 4L60/80 (not sure which one) and potentially a Pro Charger. Car is mainly street driven and would not see track duty more than 2-3 times per year. Am I better off running the Terminator or will I be just as good running HP and a stand alone for the transmission?

I also have dual Spal fans that are being run with T-stat control but it's somewhat clunky..Can the Dominator run the fans in lower speed (30% driven vs 100% driven) based off maintaining current temp or full power when extra cooling needed? Individual control of each fan?

Secondly I have a Air Gap intake port matched to AFR 290 heads I'm running---My initial idea is to modify my current intake to run the injectors. Unless you see significant improvement switching to the Super Victor EFI intake? If so do you know how those ports match up to the AFR's?

And lastly, can you provide part #'s needed/pricing? Thanks-Jason

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Hi Derek-

Great thread here, I've been researching EFI the last few months, but having hard time deciding which version, HP or Dominator. I have a '70 Chevelle with a BB 489 and TH400 as of now. Future plans include a 4L60/80 (not sure which one) and potentially a Pro Charger. Car is mainly street driven and would not see track duty more than 2-3 times per year. Am I better off running the Terminator or will I be just as good running HP and a stand alone for the transmission?

I also have dual Spal fans that are being run with T-stat control but it's somewhat clunky..Can the Dominator run the fans in lower speed (30% driven vs 100% driven) based off maintaining current temp or full power when extra cooling needed? Individual control of each fan?

Secondly I have a Air Gap intake port matched to AFR 290 heads I'm running---My initial idea is to modify my current intake to run the injectors. Unless you see significant improvement switching to the Super Victor EFI intake? If so do you know how those ports match up to the AFR's?

And lastly, can you provide part #'s needed/pricing? Thanks-Jason
Jason, thanks for posting up. Your 3rd sentence leads me straight to a Dominator ECU. I would not put an HP in this car if you are planning to run a 4L80E transmission. It's always cleaner, and easier to tune if devices are controlled by one box. Terminator is good up to 600HP in N/A form. With a procharged BBC, you would make 600+ with low boost. The injectors will not support the power you will make. So I'd start with a Dominator ECU. Since you have already worked your manifold to match the heads, you can modify it to run multi port injectors. At that point, run a 4150 or 4500 style 4 hole throttle body. The Holley EFI software has two canned fan outputs. When activated, you can turn fans on/off independently based on coolant temp. For pricing, please send me a pm with your full name, zip code, and email address. Also please include all sensors, devices, pumps, etc that you want the ecu to get data from, or control. Thanks - Derek

[Nothingface5384]

Jason, thanks for posting up. Your 3rd sentence leads me straight to a Dominator ECU. I would not put an HP in this car if you are planning to run a 4L80E transmission. It's always cleaner, and easier to tune if devices are controlled by one box. Terminator is good up to 600HP in N/A form. With a procharged BBC, you would make 600+ with low boost. The injectors will not support the power you will make. So I'd start with a Dominator ECU. Since you have already worked your manifold to match the heads, you can modify it to run multi port injectors. At that point, run a 4150 or 4500 style 4 hole throttle body. The Holley EFI software has two canned fan outputs. When activated, you can turn fans on/off independently based on coolant temp. For pricing, please send me a pm with your full name, zip code, and email address. Also please include all sensors, devices, pumps, etc that you want the ecu to get data from, or control. Thanks - Derek

Hey Derek, thanks again on thelping me with harness upgrades and boost modules

Do fuel pumps take up inputs, I'd guess no? i plan to run dual ZL1 fuel modules via vaporworx tank
'how many I/os does the meth kit use? dont need, just interested
again twin turbos here
Got DD VHX cluster comming so when I do feel the need to upgrade to dual E-fans I'll use the gauge to control the fans, so I dont use any from ECU

[Nothingface5384]

also does the Holley EFI have an AFR Fail safe?
otherwise I Guess this would be an awesome gauge addition
http://www.uspmotorsports.com/AEM-Failsafe-Airfuel-Boost-Gauge.html?gdftrk=gdfV25409_a_7c3162_a_7c12331_a_7 c30_d_4900&gclid=CLmnlIyD88ACFSdp7AodPVQAHQ

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Hey Derek, thanks again on thelping me with harness upgrades and boost modules

Do fuel pumps take up inputs, I'd guess no? i plan to run dual ZL1 fuel modules via vaporworx tank
'how many I/os does the meth kit use? dont need, just interested
again twin turbos here
Got DD VHX cluster comming so when I do feel the need to upgrade to dual E-fans I'll use the gauge to control the fans, so I dont use any from ECU

If I'm correct, the ZL1 pump module should be PWM controlled. Currently there is not a manual to do this with the Holley ECU. Holley does have a PWM+ or PWM- output. Talking with Engineers last week it seems we can control these modules based on fuel pressure. However to date, noone has done this that I'm aware of. To answer your question regarding inputs - Controlling a fuel pump would be an output. If you have multiple pumps, that would be multiple outputs. I'm not familiar with the wiring/module design. Do the pumps run at the same speed, same time, or are they independent of one another? Holley Meth injection will use one input(low fluid level), one injector driver output per nozzle, and one custom output for the meth pump.


also does the Holley EFI have an AFR Fail safe?
otherwise I Guess this would be an awesome gauge addition
http://www.uspmotorsports.com/AEM-Failsafe-Airfuel-Boost-Gauge.html?gdftrk=gdfV25409_a_7c3162_a_7c12331_a_7 c30_d_4900&gclid=CLmnlIyD88ACFSdp7AodPVQAHQ


You can setup failsafes in the tunes. That's what the warning outputs can be used for.

[Garymac69]

I am putting together a dual quad setup with two used Holley TBI's and using the HP EFI ECU. I want to customize my harness and tuck away as much of the wiring as possible. I also have most of the connectors and harness from the previous owner's Commander 950 system. The TBIs have progressive secondary throttle opening, so the back two injectors will be configured to not fire at idle and light cruise. Do you have information on the connection of the 8 injectors? Specifically: Are injectors outputs A & B for the main TBI front injectors and E & F for the slave TBI front injectors?

Thanks, Gary

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Please open your Holley EFI tuning software. You'll find the help tab at the top of the screen. Click help->contents->wiring manual/diagrams. Scroll down until you see the TBI harness. I think you'll find your answer there. If not, let me know, and I'll get you a diagram. Thanks - Derek

[Garymac69]

I've looked at those manuals and searched around the Holley website and forums. The main TBI harness is documented but not the 2 x 4 TBI injector harness #558-206. Since this is TBI, the connection will not be Injector A = cylinder 1, Injector B = cylinder 2, etc. Thanks

[youngmuscle]

Derek,

I didnt want to start a new thread, cool that you have a rolling thread here.

You probably remember me, but Ill remind my specs anyways. 454, Holley HP MPFI with FAST dual synch and LS2 coils running sequential. t56 trans with 3.90 rear gears. Cam is a bit rough, xe284h (110 LSA, .574/.578 lift). Around 10:1 compression

I am having a few fine tuning issues. I figured its a bit harder since Im trying to daily drive with a 6 speed.
Issues:

1. In order to keep from having a lean cough under load (1200-1500 rpm), in my top 4 target AFR cells, the car needs about an 11.2 AFR to keep from stumbling under load (84-105 MAP). This seems too rich to me. I pulled some timing but didnt really seem to help (currently around 27 in that area). I try to cruise in 6th at about 1400 RPM to work. Works with 11.2, but maybe its just because of the cam? Any tips or advice here....

2. When I am shifting, especially from a stop, I have to clutch quite a bit or I get a lean cough. The reason is ( I think), because as im clutching and giving gas I have a low MAP and if I let off the clutch more abruptly the computer cant change the AFR and timing quickly enough and it coughs and stumbles. Its a little embarassing because I am either riding the clutch and revving or its stumbling. I dont want to lower the timing and enrich the AFR in my 1000-1500 rpm cruise cells. I played around a bit with acceleration enrichment by increasing the total slope 10 points, but didnt see a difference. Any ideas?

3. Is this lean cough the same as detonation? Sometimes it does sound like a knock. Sometimes it just runs better.... which may be due to gas quality etc. Anty Holley GErman tuners you kow of? lol. Im pretty confident I can figure it out, but she just doesnt run right on the autobahn. Car doesnt want to cruise over 100mph, like it doesnt have power. Ill have to datalog it and figure that out seperately though.

Thanks Derik, I plan to shift some business your way when the time comes to upgrade. The guy I bought my HP from was great, but no tech support. And Danny Cabral over at Holley forums can be a bit mean at times haha. May procharge this winter...

-Paul

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Derek,

I didnt want to start a new thread, cool that you have a rolling thread here.

You probably remember me, but Ill remind my specs anyways. 454, Holley HP MPFI with FAST dual synch and LS2 coils running sequential. t56 trans with 3.90 rear gears. Cam is a bit rough, xe284h (110 LSA, .574/.578 lift). Around 10:1 compression

I am having a few fine tuning issues. I figured its a bit harder since Im trying to daily drive with a 6 speed.
Issues:

1. In order to keep from having a lean cough under load (1200-1500 rpm), in my top 4 target AFR cells, the car needs about an 11.2 AFR to keep from stumbling under load (84-105 MAP). This seems too rich to me. I pulled some timing but didnt really seem to help (currently around 27 in that area). I try to cruise in 6th at about 1400 RPM to work. Works with 11.2, but maybe its just because of the cam? Any tips or advice here....

2. When I am shifting, especially from a stop, I have to clutch quite a bit or I get a lean cough. The reason is ( I think), because as im clutching and giving gas I have a low MAP and if I let off the clutch more abruptly the computer cant change the AFR and timing quickly enough and it coughs and stumbles. Its a little embarassing because I am either riding the clutch and revving or its stumbling. I dont want to lower the timing and enrich the AFR in my 1000-1500 rpm cruise cells. I played around a bit with acceleration enrichment by increasing the total slope 10 points, but didnt see a difference. Any ideas?

3. Is this lean cough the same as detonation? Sometimes it does sound like a knock. Sometimes it just runs better.... which may be due to gas quality etc. Anty Holley GErman tuners you kow of? lol. Im pretty confident I can figure it out, but she just doesnt run right on the autobahn. Car doesnt want to cruise over 100mph, like it doesnt have power. Ill have to datalog it and figure that out seperately though.

Thanks Derik, I plan to shift some business your way when the time comes to upgrade. The guy I bought my HP from was great, but no tech support. And Danny Cabral over at Holley forums can be a bit mean at times haha. May procharge this winter...

-Paul
11.2 @ WOT is way off base for a N/A Engine on Gas ( I assume you are on pump gas). It should be 12.8-13.3 AFR. So before we get to far into this, do you have a data log(s), and a matching global folder? That would be great for trouble shooting your issue(s). I recall the cam is decent, but how much vacuum, or what KPa is it idling at? What injectors are you running, and what base fuel pressure?0

[youngmuscle]

Derek,

Thanks for the response. Ill get you a datalog as soon as I can.

My vaccuum with the carb was about 9", now it idles at about 70-77kPa (a little high?) at about 800 RPM. My injectors are 42lb/hr and I have it set at 43psi, with vacuum maybe 39 at idle.

Ive put maybe a few thousand miles on it in a short period of time (hour of driving a day). My fuel mileage even with the 6 speed is under 10 which I know is also off considering sequential injection and mostly cruise with leaner AFR's and timing. My base learning table stays at about -36 in most of the cells, essentially saying its too rich, but, like I said if I lean it out, she coughs all over the polace under load or acceleration. Maybe that also helps paint the picture. Ill try and post a pic of a datalog, if not Ill email it (assuming "[email protected]")

Thanks!
Paul

[carbuff]

Instead of targeting such a rich condition, have you tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment tables? I think you need to work on those for your lean couch. I had similar issues when I first starting working on mine, and those tables helped a lot. You may also want to look at the Holley tech forums. I found a great post there by searching that explained how those AE tables related to different adjustments you can make on a carb (power valves, accelerator pumps, etc).

Good luck! I really like my Holley now that I have it setup, although I still haven't had it on a dyno for tuning yet...

[youngmuscle]

Bryan,

That would be awesome, Ill look over at Holley. Thinking of it as carb would certainly help understand it. Ive posted this issue over at Holley as well and Danny Cabral is giving some advice. He did tell me to wait until I get the base figured out until I touch the acceleration enrichment. I did find one issue that Danny thought of, Ill just quote him here:

"Acceleration Enrichment can't be tuned until the Base Fuel Table is well tuned.
If you have a momentary lean spike, on light throttle acceleration, read below:
What are your AE vs TPS/MAP RoC Blanking values (in Fuel Modifiers/Fuel Control)?
If they're 15 & 7, those are the old values from the V1 firmware.
Change the AE vs TPS RoC Blanking value to 7 or 8.
Change the AE vs MAP RoC Blanking value to 4 or 5."

I did indeed have the old settings somehow, so Id check your as well to make sure your is the newer setting. I have no idea what it changes lol, still learning.

I dont think changing acceleration enrichment will change my lean cough scenario in 6th gear though. Cruising in 6th at 1400 RPM puts me at about 11.5-11.2 AFR (shouldnt be that rich), and if I hit a hill and lightly throttle up while lugging 6th she'll still cough sometimes. Could just be my cam I guess but I dont think so, thats a really rich AFR. I have a few things Im going to try today (fix my IAC issue, confirm my inductive delay setting, and reset some of my learn tables), see how that helps. I really love the system as well. The issues arent Holleys, its just me tuning myself and in the process becoming a better Hot Rodder. Im learning every day.

Derek, I sent you an email with 2 datalogs, but Im not sure if those files worked for you or if it was the wrong email. Just let me know bud.

Thanks,
Paul

[sccacuda]

Paul,

What resolution are you using for your tables? With a big cam, it helps to make higher resolutions (more tables) for your cells in the idle and tip in rpm range. Basically your decreasing the rpm difference between cells and are able to tune each one more accurately, either yourself or let it. We've made some big cams idle well, and tip in response very good by doing this. Previously on different controllers without the cell resolution capabilities of the Holley, Alpha-N was necessary.

[GRNOVA]

Good morning,
First off information in this thread is great,thanks Derek for monitoring this. First off my build is a 65 Nova. 408,2.8Lkennebell,DBW, 90 mm throttle body, paddle shifted 4l80e controlled by compushift II, PCS pushbutton shifter all powered by Infinitywire(ISIS).
I saw a lot of information about the use of all the connectors, but with my set up which ones do I actually use and where do they go?
On the Kennebell where does the MAT go, and since I am running DBW, I'm guessing that the IAC is not used or do I by an adapter harness of some sort.
And when fuel pressure connector just tap into the fuel linein front of rail?
And then the CTS on the drivers side head?
When I ordered a aux harness for the O2 sensor which one?
Sorry for the novice questions but just getting started.

Here is a shot of progress so far

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/b723204c6163804beb79fc06f7110736_zps13f8-1.jpg

[carbuff]

Paul,

Danny is definitely a great resource, I've read a ton of the threads over there in which he had replied. Yes, I have my Blanking values correct, I've seen that same warning from him there as well. Mine are set at 9 and 5. :)

When they say to not touch the AE tables until you have the Base Table tuned, I agree with that. My approach to that (right or wrong, like you I'm learning) was to set up my Target AFR tables to where I wanted them, and then to just run the engine and hit as many of them as I could while sitting in the garage. Obviously it's impossible to hit all of the load conditions, but I could get the most basic table positions in place. Then drive the car, trying to hit a few also. Yes, you may get some 'coughs' as you describe. When I felt that I had a good sampling of runs, I transferred the learned table to the base. I did this a couple of times. The learned table will quickly get to a point in which you don't have very large percentage changes after a couple of runs.

That's when I started working on the AE tables. I could be sitting still and blip the throttle and get a stumble. Watching the datalogger, I was getting a very lean spike with a quick throttle blip. I slowly started adjusting the AE tables to clear that up. I also read a lot of the posts on the Holley forum about which tables to adjust for these cases.

My car is definitely not fine-tuned, as I don't have a local tuner with much Holley experience. But I've been able to get the car to a point where it drives very well not with my limited adjusting. I've never had the high-load cough you are experiencing, but I was able to tune out some slight stumbles under heavy load.

On the Holley site there is a reference to a tuning guide on the Edelbrock site which covers both fuel AFR as well as Spark timing. I found that to be helpful reading. See if you can find the link to that document if you haven't already.

Good luck! Learning how to tweak this system is fun, and relatively safe as long as you move in slow increments towards your goal.

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Derek,

Thanks for the response. Ill get you a datalog as soon as I can.

My vaccuum with the carb was about 9", now it idles at about 70-77kPa (a little high?) at about 800 RPM. My injectors are 42lb/hr and I have it set at 43psi, with vacuum maybe 39 at idle.

Ive put maybe a few thousand miles on it in a short period of time (hour of driving a day). My fuel mileage even with the 6 speed is under 10 which I know is also off considering sequential injection and mostly cruise with leaner AFR's and timing. My base learning table stays at about -36 in most of the cells, essentially saying its too rich, but, like I said if I lean it out, she coughs all over the polace under load or acceleration. Maybe that also helps paint the picture. Ill try and post a pic of a datalog, if not Ill email it (assuming "[email protected]")

Thanks!
Paul

Well first thing, I did not receive an email, so please resend the files to [email protected] Next, you do NOT want to adjust the AE settings until the base fuel map is tuned correctly. We know that is certainly not tuned as it's needing 11.2:1 to cruise. What injectors (brand/part number) are you using, and what injector off times did you use in your base tune? Lets say you have an LS3 injector, and use the holley drop down injector data. You could very well be cutting the injector off, and only getting half the fuel your engine needs. So your commanded AFR has to be much richer to compensate. Just one of many possibilities. Please resend your complete global folder in a zip format, and a matching data log. I'll be happy to take a look.

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Good morning,
First off information in this thread is great,thanks Derek for monitoring this. First off my build is a 65 Nova. 408,2.8Lkennebell,DBW, 90 mm throttle body, paddle shifted 4l80e controlled by compushift II, PCS pushbutton shifter all powered by Infinitywire(ISIS).
I saw a lot of information about the use of all the connectors, but with my set up which ones do I actually use and where do they go?
On the Kennebell where does the MAT go, and since I am running DBW, I'm guessing that the IAC is not used or do I by an adapter harness of some sort.
And when fuel pressure connector just tap into the fuel linein front of rail?
And then the CTS on the drivers side head?
When I ordered a aux harness for the O2 sensor which one?
Sorry for the novice questions but just getting started.

Here is a shot of progress so far

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/b723204c6163804beb79fc06f7110736_zps13f8-1.jpg

I would love to tell you to install the MAT in the factory postion, however I've never installed a KB blower, and they may want you to measure the IAT's in the manifold. Best bet on that is to call their tech service. You will not have an IAC, as the DBW throttle body will serve as your IAC. You will get your fuel pressure reading from a rail or port on the regulator. Your main harness should reach the CTS on the driverside head. J2A (558-401) is the input harness pre-terminated for the second wideband. Give me a call tomorrow if you would like to order any parts. I'm giving 20% off SRP until Dec. 31. However on 11-30-14 there is a substantial price increase on all Holley branded products.

[Garymac69]

Derek, For my EFI install, I have the option of locating the CTS in my aluminum heads or at the intake thermostat fitting. What is the recommended location?

Also, do you have a recommendation for a grommet for the main harness through the firewall?

Thanks

[another69]

Can the tach signal for the Holley ECU be shared with an Aeromotive PWM fuel pump speed controller? Aeromotive wants the signal from the MSD CD box to go directly to the FPSC and then split off to the tach. Can I just tie the signal to the Holley ECU in at the FPSC or is there a potential for some kind of interference?

[mightymonte]

I just purchased Holley HP kit 550-601 for my Stealth Ram project. My project is going into a 1983 Monte Carlo SS with a 383. I have a couple of questions.

I am looking at using a dual sync distributor. I would like to use the Mallory/Accel dual sync distributor if it is compatible. The distributor is part # 77100 in both brands. Is this distributor compatible with the system?

I also would like to run the 99-04 corvette style fuel return. The return system and fuel pressure regulator is built into the filter. WIX 33737. I would also use a regulator at the fuel rail and not totally depend on the filter regulator if necessary. This would allow me to use the existing lines (feed and vent) and not be obligated to run a new line for return. It would also make for less places to leak and its clean.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS1-Fuel-Filter-Fuel-Regulator-Kit,41791.html

The inlet side of this filter/regulator is the end with the (2) male port tubes. The larger 3/8" tube is the pressure inlet from the pump. The smaller 5/16" tube is the return to the tank. The female side of the filter assembly utilizes the male 'snap' in fitting. This is the outlet side of the filter for the line to the fuel rail of the engine.

I see a lot of guys using this for LS swaps so I don't see why this wouldn't work but this was made for LS series stuff and not Holley stuff.

[andrewb70]

I just purchased Holley HP kit 550-601 for my Stealth Ram project. My project is going into a 1983 Monte Carlo SS with a 383. I have a couple of questions.

I am looking at using a dual sync distributor. I would like to use the Mallory/Accel dual sync distributor if it is compatible. The distributor is part # 77100 in both brands. Is this distributor compatible with the system?

I also would like to run the 99-04 corvette style fuel return. The return system and fuel pressure regulator is built into the filter. WIX 33737. I would also use a regulator at the fuel rail and not totally depend on the filter regulator if necessary. This would allow me to use the existing lines (feed and vent) and not be obligated to run a new line for return. It would also make for less places to leak and its clean.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS1-Fuel-Filter-Fuel-Regulator-Kit,41791.html

The inlet side of this filter/regulator is the end with the (2) male port tubes. The larger 3/8" tube is the pressure inlet from the pump. The smaller 5/16" tube is the return to the tank. The female side of the filter assembly utilizes the male 'snap' in fitting. This is the outlet side of the filter for the line to the fuel rail of the engine.

I see a lot of guys using this for LS swaps so I don't see why this wouldn't work but this was made for LS series stuff and not Holley stuff.

I would not go with the Corvette fuel system with the Stealth Ram. There is already a regulator nicely mounted on the rail. Use it and run a return line back to the tank. Make sure you either use PTFE braided hose or use as much hard line as possible with only short runs of rubber braided hose.

Andrew

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Derek, For my EFI install, I have the option of locating the CTS in my aluminum heads or at the intake thermostat fitting. What is the recommended location?

Also, do you have a recommendation for a grommet for the main harness through the firewall?

Thanks
Mount the CTS in the head. Earl's used to make some nice grommets. Not sure if they still have them or not.


Can the tach signal for the Holley ECU be shared with an Aeromotive PWM fuel pump speed controller? Aeromotive wants the signal from the MSD CD box to go directly to the FPSC and then split off to the tach. Can I just tie the signal to the Holley ECU in at the FPSC or is there a potential for some kind of interference?
That would be a question for Holley Tech Service. I've never had that question lol

[lxmodguy]

Can the tach signal for the Holley ECU be shared with an Aeromotive PWM fuel pump speed controller? Aeromotive wants the signal from the MSD CD box to go directly to the FPSC and then split off to the tach. Can I just tie the signal to the Holley ECU in at the FPSC or is there a potential for some kind of interference?

Which holley ECM are you running? tack signal should split either way, just curious. Why not just configure one of the outputs to provide tack signal

[GRNOVA]

Can the tach signal for the Holley ECU be shared with an Aeromotive PWM fuel pump speed controller? Aeromotive wants the signal from the MSD CD box to go directly to the FPSC and then split off to the tach. Can I just tie the signal to the Holley ECU in at the FPSC or is there a potential for some kind of interference?

That is exactly what I did with my Aeromotive controller, also shared it with my campushift II.

[another69]

I'm running the Terminator system, so basically the HP computer (will be using as an HP to run an LS in the future).

Can you configure an output as a tach signal? If there is no problem tying the tach, Aeromotive FPSC, and Holley ECU all to the MSD tach output then I am happy to do that.

[andrewb70]

I'm running the Terminator system, so basically the HP computer (will be using as an HP to run an LS in the future).

Can you configure an output as a tach signal? If there is no problem tying the tach, Aeromotive FPSC, and Holley ECU all to the MSD tach output then I am happy to do that.

I would be surprised if there isn't already a dedicated "tach out" wire in your harness, so you shouldn't need to burn an output just for that.

Andrew

[carbuff]

I know the HP EFI system which I have does generate an output for the tach. If the computer is actually the same for the Terminator system, it should be there for you.

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

I know the HP EFI system which I have does generate an output for the tach. If the computer is actually the same for the Terminator system, it should be there for you.

At this time, it's the same ECU.

[another69]

Which terminal is it? I don't see a "tach out" in the pin map.

[Danny Cabral]

Which terminal is it? I don't see a "tach out" in the pin map.
http://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?13756-Pin-A28-how-do-I-locate-it-on-P1A-harness-connector&p=47583#post47583 (Tachometer Signal Information)

[rossmacd]

Do the HP and dominator use the same harness? I think it's been answered elsewhere E but looking for confirmation.

[Danny Cabral]

Do the HP & Dominator use the same harness? I think it's been answered elsewhere, but looking for confirmation.
Yes, the HP & Dominator ECU use the same main harness (Link (http://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?12822-Dominator-ECU-Question&p=44473#post44473)).
http://documents.holley.com/efi_selection_chart62914.pdf (HP & Dominator EFI Component Selection Guide)

[hifi875]

I had a new harness for my terminator installed that allows the terminator computer to control the spark and everything. Got rid of my MSD6010 and it runs better and cleaned up the wiring clutter to boot. I would highly recomend to anyone who is using a terminator.

[andrewb70]

Last night I was able to use my Holley Dominator to control the cooling fan using PWM.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7C-Y0VsD6pY

This is a great way to do it, because now the fan is no longer ON or OFF. I have the ability to run the fan at variable speed based on engine coolant temperature and vehicle speed.

Andrew

[cwylie]

Thats really cool. Do you have a part number for that fan controller you used by chance?

[andrewb70]

Thats really cool. Do you have a part number for that fan controller you used by chance?

10377609

Andrew

[zamora7]

Can anyone share some input on how to get a good baseline tune for my set up? It's an Ls1 with trex cam(24x range duration), Ls2 intake, Ls1 injectors and tb, everything else is stock. I tried the global folder tune Ls1 4l60 dbc and it did fire up, idle sucked for the most part until it hit learn mode. I let it idle for a few minutes and afr looked to be on point, but when I gave it gas it would stumble a little bit and the rev and then it would die unless I kept giving it gas. I would try firing up again and would not start unless I kept the throttle open. After I got it running again it and idles good, gave it gas and died. Next time it fired it sounded like it was only running only one bank, which I think it was, passenger side was considerably hotter than driver side, any pointers as to what might be causing the issue? Maybe point me to a better base tune based on the mpfi files?

[carbuff]

First, if you haven't already found it, I highly recommend you look at:

http://forums.holley.com

LOTS of great and fast support there. Many threads on this topic as well under the HP EFI subforum.

That said, I cannot remember, but do you have an IAC when you use DBC? If sounds like you are having issues with it.

Also, when you said it idles poorly until closed loop is activating (that's what I think you meant when you said learn mode), what is it doing? Running too rich? Too lean? There are tables which control the post-start enrichment, but those should phase out pretty quickly. Then there is a coolant temp enrichment table which is in play until you warm up.

There is a global folder for a 480HP LS2 as I recall which is a good starting point for many cars. Have you tried that?

When you blipped the throttle and it stumbled, was that a lean or a rich stumble? I had to work on that a good bit on my setup with the AE tables. Mine was a lean stumble. Also, have you adjusted the ignition table?

[andrewb70]

Can anyone share some input on how to get a good baseline tune for my set up? It's an Ls1 with trex cam(24x range duration), Ls2 intake, Ls1 injectors and tb, everything else is stock. I tried the global folder tune Ls1 4l60 dbc and it did fire up, idle sucked for the most part until it hit learn mode. I let it idle for a few minutes and afr looked to be on point, but when I gave it gas it would stumble a little bit and the rev and then it would die unless I kept giving it gas. I would try firing up again and would not start unless I kept the throttle open. After I got it running again it and idles good, gave it gas and died. Next time it fired it sounded like it was only running only one bank, which I think it was, passenger side was considerably hotter than driver side, any pointers as to what might be causing the issue? Maybe point me to a better base tune based on the mpfi files?

At this point you need to start learning and actually doing your own tuning. You have at your fingertips a very powerful and user-friendly EFI system, so learn to use it...

Tuning idle is critical for drivability and with that big cam you will have to spend a lot of time tweaking the tune.

You may have to crack the throttle blades open a little, do another TPS auto set, then start fiddling with the IAC parameters. Go to the Holley forum and you will find a lot of information there.

Andrew

[Tsunami]

I have been looking to converse/read/view info from anyone that has installed the Holley HP EFI system on a Ford 4.6l SOHC engine. So far I have not found, by searching the web, anyone that has posted anything about using the HP system on Ford mod motors. I have the engine from a 1996 Mustang GT (original 8,500 miles), that I have installed in a 1940 Ford Tudor (2 door sedan) street rod (Ford in a Ford). I really don't want to use the factory computer. Any leads would be appreciated. Thanks

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

I have been looking to converse/read/view info from anyone that has installed the Holley HP EFI system on a Ford 4.6l SOHC engine. So far I have not found, by searching the web, anyone that has posted anything about using the HP system on Ford mod motors. I have the engine from a 1996 Mustang GT (original 8,500 miles), that I have installed in a 1940 Ford Tudor (2 door sedan) street rod (Ford in a Ford). I really don't want to use the factory computer. Any leads would be appreciated. Thanks

We have setup several Holley Efi systems on modular engines. Let me know if I can help. 2706193472 or [email protected]. Thanks-Derek

[wayward]

I have an issue and would like some help - please..

I have the EFI-HP..

I can hook up via USB
i upload to the ECU the fuel pump comes on constant..
I do the TPS
then cycle the switch off
When i turn the switch on - No fuel pump / no start
The USB will connect but will not sync
i can disconnect the battery for a 1/2 hour or longer and be able to link via USB...

Brand new 1st owner

I have verfied good grounds and power
i have the large wires ran directly to the battery..

Any suggestions will be appreciated.. i have had the unit in the box as i have built the car so I'm concerned Holley will support the warranty

[andrewb70]

Eric,

I would first go through and verify all of the wiring. Then I would post on the Holley support forum. I would also give Holley a call and see what they suggest.

Andrew

[carbuff]

Can you confirm which version of the EFI Firmware is installed in your HP EFI box? And then which version of the software you have installed on your laptop?

Just a total guess, but perhaps you don't have the correct matching versions?

[wayward]

i upgraded the firmware to v2 and have the matching software... my box had 1.5 build 1

that didn't work so i was hoping my firmware would fix the issue but it didn't...

Thanks - EL

[wayward]

thanks Andrew - i will ..
Was going to call Holley -but didn't think about the support forum

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

thanks Andrew - i will ..
Was going to call Holley -but didn't think about the support forum

Just to update the ecu is at Holley, and currently a brick. Is that correct? With electronics anything is possible to fail. Good luck, and I hope Tech Service gets something worked out with you.

[wayward]

Thanks. I'm anxiously awaiting an answer. I've been trying to be patient but the end of this week will begin the third week. I really suck at being patient.

It's bad and I agree sometimes things just go bad. I really want to know why or what can cause the problem to make sure I don't have an issue that needs addressed.

Since everything I did was all new and has been verified I started looking at the prewired connectors on Sunday. I need to find the detailed wiring diagrams. The colors don't match on the O2 sensor. Seemed odd but may be normal... My idle mind is a bad thing...

Thanks
Eric

[wayward]

Thanks. I'm anxiously awaiting an answer. I've been trying to be patient but the end of this week will begin the third week. I really suck at being patient.

It's bad and I agree sometimes things just go bad. I really want to know why or what can cause the problem to make sure I don't have an issue that needs addressed.

Since everything I did was all new and has been verified I started looking at the prewired connectors on Sunday. I need to find the detailed wiring diagrams. The colors don't match on the O2 sensor. Seemed odd but may be normal... My idle mind is a bad thing...

Thanks
Eric

Completed the wiring check and found a couple issues and it was an easy fix to correct.

Great news is Holley stepped up and went above and beyond the printed warranty and is helping me out. I provided them pictures of the install minutes after our first talk so they knew how the unit was installed into the car... This came back up at the decision point, so if you ever have an electronic problem like this I would suggest to document the points of interest immediately so the trust decision doesn't have to be made by the vendor.

I am very happy but must say Holley support is above and beyond the standard they set as by the letter of the law they didn't have to support this unit because I have it during most of my build although it was a new unit...

[Derek@ModernSpeed]

Completed the wiring check and found a couple issues and it was an easy fix to correct.

Great news is Holley stepped up and went above and beyond the printed warranty and is helping me out. I provided them pictures of the install minutes after our first talk so they knew how the unit was installed into the car... This came back up at the decision point, so if you ever have an electronic problem like this I would suggest to document the points of interest immediately so the trust decision doesn't have to be made by the vendor.

I am very happy but must say Holley support is above and beyond the standard they set as by the letter of the law they didn't have to support this unit because I have it during most of my build although it was a new unit...
Glad it was resolved. Congrats, now get that thing running :)

[URBANHOTROD]

Hi Derek would you please give me a Quote on a HP System for my car.
Its a 502 BBC with Rectangular port Dart heads
Solid Roller cam.

I dont need a Fuel pump/filer/regulator but it it has it no worries.