eastwood chassis black

[Doodler]

Ok, The chassis is a done and I'm looking at painting the whole underside with Eastwood's satin chassis black. Does it chip easily? How does it hold up vs. powdercoating? If it's really durable, I may just save the money of powdercoating and paint the rear suspension at the same time. I was initially planning on just using bedliner. But like most of my projects, it's spirally way overboard and picking up steam fast, LOL! I just don't see that as an option anymore. Also, how well did it cover and how much did you use?

I attached a picture of the area I'm trying to cover. I'm also open to any other suggestions.

Thanks in advance guys!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_0405_zps1ee712ba-1.jpg

[astroracer]

What are you going to do with the car that will chip the paint? I know rocks and junk may find their way into the mix but how much gravel road driving will you be doing? I'm just asking because I want you to stop and think about this. There is nothing short of an accident that will really hurt any kind of paint you want to spray under there. Any little chips or what-not are easily touched up with a fresh shot of paint.
I use dollar store rattle can enamel (and a bit of rustoleum hammered). If it starts looking a little dingy I spray on more... Anybody crawling under the car to count paint chips should be run over anyway...
Unless this is a show car only trailer queen... and then you don't have to worry about it anyway. I'm not trying to flame you here, just want you to think about who's going to see it and how easy is it to maintain? :)
Mark

[Doodler]

It's more because I'm going to end up having a lot money in this car than I have ever spent on a car and want to protect my investment. Car will only be on a trailer when it's going to the track and back but will see a lot of highway miles. I just don't want it to turn to hell in a couple of years.

[Schwartz Performance]

The only option we offer on our G-Machine Chassis is to have it powdercoated or delivered raw. Powdercoating is simply the best option.

Like any paint (even powdercoating), preparation is key. Our chassis gets fully sand-blasted before being powdercoated, but even if your simply painting it, we would recommend having the chassis sand-blasted. This is will allow your coating/paint to adhere strongly and evenly, which is your best defense against chipping.

Good luck! We can't wait to see the car on the road!

[astroracer]

Understood, and that's why you don't need to spend a ton of money protecting the underside. You will be maintaining this car with a different attitude then if it were a DD. And that is why I am saying you can hose it down with black spray bombs. It will look good enough for car shows and cruizes and you can touch it up very easily. If you have to do some chassis work there is no issue grinding off your rattle can black as opposed to a 2,000 dollar powdercoating job.
I'm not saying to totally cheap out on the job either, use a good self etching primer from a rattle can and then your choice of manufacturer for top coat. I have had good luck with the cheap spray bombs from Walmart or Big Lots. At a buck a can you can save yourself a ton of coin.
Mark

[astroracer]

Ahhh, I see a Swartz Chassis is involved here... That does make LITTLE bit of a difference. I thought this was a redo of a stocker, My Bad. Still, like I said before, paint is easily maintained and touched up. Prep the chassis right like stated above and it will last a long time.
Mark

[Schwartz Performance]

Ahhh, I see a Swartz Chassis is involved here... That does make LITTLE bit of a difference. I thought this was a redo of a stocker, My Bad. Still, like I said before, paint is easily maintained and touched up. Prep the chassis right like stated above and it will last a long time.
Mark

The photo in the original post is not a Schwartz Performance G-Machine Chassis. I was simply explaining our approach to coating as an example for the OP. My point is only that the best prep is to sand-blast the whole chassis.

[astroracer]

The photo in the original post is not a Schwartz Performance G-Machine Chassis. I was simply explaining our approach to coating as an example for the OP. My point is only that the best prep is to sand-blast the whole chassis.
Fair enough, I couldn't see the pic as my work computer blocks most of them. I was not seeing any kind of chassis. I guess that is reason enough for some of the confusion. :)

[TheJDMan]

I recommed you try John Deere Blitz Black paint. I used it on my chassis components, rear end housing and DSE subframe. It is extremely durable, easy to touch up and comes in spray cans, qt or gal. It is a satin black and is about the most durable paint I have found due to it's intended use in heavy equipment. It can be purchased from any John Deere dealer.

[rektek]

building hotrods for investment, huh..

[Doodler]

building hotrods for investment, huh..

By "investment" I mean taking care of what I spent a lot of time and money on. Otherwise why even paint a car, just let the ******* rust out and build another one.

[astroracer]

I understood exactly what you meant. We all build these things and they cost a ton of money. I know you want to protect it and a good self-etching primer with a tough paint will do the job. I will be spraying the chassis for Bad Ast with Rustoleum "Hammered" It is very tough and it costs about 12 bucks for a quart. Look thru my build thread. I have painted all of my suspension bits with Rustoleum rattle cans... You tell me that it doesn't look good... And I know this stuff will last because the van will never see snow or salt and it will be "taken care of"... to protect MY investment.
Mark

[48prerunner]

I bought a frame for my truck, the guy who sold it to me had it sandblasted and then he painted with eastwood primer and chassis black. I haven't had it on the road yet. but he was going stock and i've done a few mods to the frame has stood up to all the banging around in the shop. Like the other two posters have said the prep is key, has to have some tooth for the paint or powder coat to stick.

[Doodler]

Thanks guys! Very helpful information.

Astroracer, I actually used that "Hammered" on the brush guard of my truck. I figured unbolt it and give it a shot. If it's junk, then I'd just powdercoat it. But at least try the cheaper option first. Seems to be standing up pretty well!

[BonzoHansen]

I recommed you try John Deere Blitz Black paint. I used it on my chassis components, rear end housing and DSE subframe. It is extremely durable, easy to touch up and comes in spray cans, qt or gal. It is a satin black and is about the most durable paint I have found due to it's intended use in heavy equipment. It can be purchased from any John Deere dealer.

I tried that stuff, rattle can though so that might matter. I didn't find it any better than krylon on properly prepared surface. in fact the kyrlon on my car has proven to be very tough, more than I ever suspected. and 1/2 the price of BB.

I think we tend to over think this for cars that are not riddler/smoty candidates

Still looks like this 6 years and at least 15,000 miles later:

firewall/cowl/inners: stripped to steel, prepped & POR15, etch primer over it when tacky, then krylon semi-gloss a few days later
frame: same, except rustoleum instead of krylon. that stuff took too long to dry so I gave up on it. i tried it on the FW but it never dried on seam sealer so I had to clean it & reshoot
steering box/hood latch/spindles - stripped, etch, 'cast blast' paint, either from napa or eastwood.
rad cover: rustoleum hammered, discontinued color lol

my lower control arms are pure por15. they chipped early but as that stuff hardened it got really tough.
steering linkage: bare. I wipe them down each spring with Boeshield T-9 and they look great

under the car is primer & kyrlon. it has held up well and seen rain. a handful of spots I touched up, mostly self inflicted like when I put the t56 in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/DSC_0066s-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/th_IMG_2972_SM-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v359/SIBLY/My77Z28/?action=view&current=IMG_2972_SM.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/th_IMG_0903Small-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v359/SIBLY/My77Z28/?action=view&current=IMG_0903Small.jpg)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/th_sfoff010kk-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v359/SIBLY/My77Z28/?action=view&current=sfoff010kk.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2006/07/th_FRAME_ON_IMG_2274-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v359/SIBLY/My77Z28/?action=view&current=FRAME_ON_IMG_2274.jpg) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/th_IMG_1666Small1-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v359/SIBLY/My77Z28/?action=view&current=IMG_1666Small-1.jpg)

[BuzzKillian]

You asked about the Eastwood Chassis Black... I used thier original formula stuff and I'm not impressed with its durablity. Although, it went on really easy. I had intended on using thier ceramic paint but ordered the wrong stuff and used it anyway.

[Charles]

It,s a tough one Doodler, so many pro's and con's. It all comes down to how deep your pockets are. I too have invested a lot of $$ on my through out the years, now Im spread thin with a kid on the way. I know protecting your hard work is a critical point, I dont have deep pockets but for sure Im going to spray undercoat on the undercarage and powdercoat my sub-frame at the very least. Everything else will get some Eastwood paint, my 2 cents.

[Y-TRY]

I'm coating the inside with the Second Skin Spectrum product. Though they say it can also be an undercoat, I'm skeptical. I want something that can survive several laps/miles of boiling oil spraying on it. How do these products stand up?

[67rstbkt]

You asked about the Eastwood Chassis Black... I used thier original formula stuff and I'm not impressed with its durablity. Although, it went on really easy. I had intended on using thier ceramic paint but ordered the wrong stuff and used it anyway.

You know, I did the same exact thing. I swear I ordered the ceramic version, but I ended up with the regular stuff. Same experience, it layed out real easy and looks great, but not as durable as I'd hoped.

[alocker]

If its going on the track then you need something durable. Sticky tires fling a lot of crap at high velocity. My vote is epoxy like Spi. Touch ups will be easier than pc.

[67bird]

I have had really good luck with Eastwood Products, even with subpar prep. I did my wife's Durango with the black rust encapsulator and it looked great and it was driven in everything. I didn't top coat at all. I currently have some places where I used he red that is holding up real well on my daily driven Silverado.

[snopro]

If you haven't already finished it, iv'e had good luck with glass shield epoxy.

[TBART70]

Lizard skin and boom mat spray on the under side of my 70. Not on the road yet but seemed to adhere very well