Building panhard bar, what bushing type should I use?

[Hotwhilz]

Hi Guys, I'm building a pnahard bar for my Nova but still totally up in the air on the type of bushing to use on both ends
I was thinking polybushing but mybe they'll bind while the axle travels?
What do you guys run?
Heims are the way to go but tends to make noises!

Any advise?
Thanks

[UMI Tech]

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=199&products_id=386

Our Roto-Joint is a nice combination of damping and articulation. We can also provide weld bungs and tubing. Actually, if you give us the center to center and choose a bushing style (like the Roto shown above) we can even make you one.

ramey

[exwestracer]

Ramey's suggestion is a good one. In general, bushing selection depends on the design of the whole system and how you expect it to move.

Is the car still on leaf springs?

If the bar is fairly close to parallel to the axle, the ends will see mostly rotational movement. In that case, urethane or even delrin should work ok. If the bar is at an angle (top view) or the axle will see much F/R movement, rubber or some sort of spherical end would be better.

[Hotwhilz]

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=199&products_id=386

Our Roto-Joint is a nice combination of damping and articulation. We can also provide weld bungs and tubing. Actually, if you give us the center to center and choose a bushing style (like the Roto shown above) we can even make you one.

ramey

Appreciate you offer but I'm willing to build it on ly own like the rest of the car, it is a budget minded build, what I was more concern if a ply bushing with steel sleev will bind or not? May be you can advise?

Thanks

[Hotwhilz]

Ramey's suggestion is a good one. In general, bushing selection depends on the design of the whole system and how you expect it to move.

Is the car still on leaf springs?

If the bar is fairly close to parallel to the axle, the ends will see mostly rotational movement. In that case, urethane or even delrin should work ok. If the bar is at an angle (top view) or the axle will see much F/R movement, rubber or some sort of spherical end would be better.

Hi Ray the car is still on leaf springs and the reason for the panhard, eventhought most people swear a panhard is not needed, is when I raise the rear of the car, i can still move the rear end form side to side maybe approxiamtly 3/8".
I have a very tight wheel opening for the 275 tires I'm running and i don't want them to rub anywhere.
I got the fact that it needs to be as parallel to the axle as possible and as long as packaging will allow.
I can have it fairly parallel if not dead on to the axle.

Thanks for clearing that up for me, time to weld some together now!

Regards

[exwestracer]

Checked out your build thread. I'm assuming it's the same gray car you were going to sell? When you lowered the car with those blocks, you obviously moved the springs out of the pockets, putting all the side load on the clamp bolts and center bolt. Also, that 10 bolt rear will have a small amount of axle movement from the C-clip design.

[Hotwhilz]

Hi Ray, exact I used some blocks, but retain a pin on one side and a hole on the other, it is the all assembly that moves when pushing on the wheel itself. Would you suggest making the axle pockets taller ( deeper ) to help for side load?

[exwestracer]

Hi Ray, exact I used some blocks, but retain a pin on one side and a hole on the other, it is the all assembly that moves when pushing on the wheel itself. Would you suggest making the axle pockets taller ( deeper ) to help for side load?

If you are committed to doing the panhard, I wouldn't worry about it. Just an observation on where you may be getting some of that side motion. If you can move it that far just pushing on the rear axle, it probably has a lot more "give" under heavy side loads.

[Hotwhilz]

Thanks Ray, Always appreciate your insights on the suspension forum.

Will get to build it now and report back.

Regards