Engine decision...

[Streetking]

Ok guys, I love my Camaro but I want to change the motor. Kyle thinks I should keep a small block, but I love the way a big block looks and feels in a old muscle car. I know it won't handle as well, but I'm not going to track it. I thought about twin-turbo Ls2 ect., but I just want a mean sounding ground shaking big block. When Steve1969LS1 '68 was at my house, man it sounded mean.I'm sending the red Viper to Underground Racing in the next few months for their twin-turbo pkg, it will make 1300rwh, so I will have my twin-turbo fix. I'm thinking either a 509ci or the 572, what do you guys think? \

Btw, just for kicks I'm getting a estimate for a 434 small block also..
SW

[nancejd]

Why not do an all aluminum big block? Then you can have your cake and eat it too!

[MuscleRodz]

With your budget craving a BB, I would be building an aluminum rat motor. I think the 572 will have hood clearance issues in a stock frame.

Mike

[Steve1968LS2]

Ok guys, I love my Camaro but I want to change the motor. Kyle thinks I should keep a small block, but I love the way a big block looks and feels in a old muscle car. I know it won't handle as well, but I'm not going to track it. I thought about twin-turbo Ls2 ect., but I just want a mean sounding ground shaking big block. When Steve1969LS1 '68 was at my house, man it sounded mean.I'm sending the red Viper to Underground Racing in the next few months for their twin-turbo pkg, it will make 1300rwh, so I will have my twin-turbo fix. I'm thinking either a 509ci or the 572, what do you guys think? \

Btw, just for kicks I'm getting a estimate for a 434 small block also..
SW

All aluminum big block with a custom EFI set-up... call up wheel to wheel and I'm sure they can set you up.. The alum block would sure help with the weight issue.

There are some nice alum big blocks out there.. If you are going to do then do it right

[Steve1968LS2]

With your budget craving a BB, I would be building an aluminum rat motor. I think the 572 will have hood clearance issues in a stock frame.

Mike

Believe it or not I typed my suggestion before reading this pearl of wisdom :)

big block + EFI = hood clearance

[zbugger]

Ok guys, I love my Camaro but I want to change the motor. Kyle thinks I should keep a small block, but I love the way a big block looks and feels in a old muscle car. I know it won't handle as well, but I'm not going to track it. I thought about twin-turbo Ls2 ect., but I just want a mean sounding ground shaking big block. When Steve1969LS1 '68 was at my house, man it sounded mean.I'm sending the red Viper to Underground Racing in the next few months for their twin-turbo pkg, it will make 1300rwh, so I will have my twin-turbo fix. I'm thinking either a 509ci or the 572, what do you guys think? \

Btw, just for kicks I'm getting a estimate for a 434 small block also..
SW
You're a sick, sick man...... God bless america. :usa:

[yody]

yes, eventually I will be going with EFI on my BBC so i can put the formula hood back on(did you hear my video clip?) I would either go super radical stroked small block with an 18 degree valvetrain and a sheetmetal intake EFI, or go with an all aluminum BBC or Iron. I would build a 540 based off a Dart block or a GM502 block. you use a 502 bore of 4.500 and a stroker crank of 4.25 and you get a monster 540 that you can get 700 horse easy and still have street manners. Put my cam in a 540 and you will have a pretty tame idle and good vacuum and awesome street manners with a great torque curve. Definetly DON"T do a GM572 motor, they are expensive/talldeck/and not the ideal stroke/bore. Supposedly the high stroke creates lots of harmonics. Those motors (at least to me) are for showing off. iF you want a crate motor look to Sharifoff, they build some pretty good motors. YOu could put together a killer iron 540 for about $7000 long block. Solid roller would be the way to go, but not 100% streetable, a solid flat tappet goes a long way, hydrorollers are a no-no on a bbc, unless redline is 5,500rpm. Although a crazy small block, like what was originally built for the mule would be pretty cool!

[Ralph LoGrasso]

I agree with the above. I'd do a 540ci aluminum BBC. 1300rwhp on the viper? That's gotta be good for bottom 8s, high 7s?!

[yody]

aluminum would be killer, but thinking about it again, if you arent' doing any track stuff, i wouldn't worry about the aluminum. It is really expenisve and needs to have a machinist who has done them before. A good aftermarked Dart block would be perfect or even a GM 502

[Matt@RFR]

You guys are thinking way too small!!! If yer gonna spend SW's money, then SPEND IT! lol

4.5" bore x 4.125" stroke = 525cid.
12:1 on 50/50 mix gas
310º duration @ .050"
.900"-ish lift
Shift @ 9,000RPM

Or same cam with 4.6" bore x 4.75" stroke = 632cid.

[yody]

yeah a 632 would be sweet, but the heads that you would need to support it and for it to make any sense would start getting into huge$$$ I like the first combo! sounds like a screamer!!! [email protected]!!

[4MuscleMachines]

I'd go with the big rat in all aluminum, Shafiroff also custom makes the aluminum beasts.

[race-rodz-inc]

how about a 10,000 rpm SB2? you could prolly pick up a ready to run nascar motor "reasonable".

[chicane67]

It is really expenisve and needs.......

I dont believe this Cat has budget restraints, there yoda.


My direction would be toward either an alloy 7.0+L LSx or an alloy EFI 540 'ish cid conventional roller Big Block. Then call me to build your differential set-up for traction control.

In reality, too much torque....... is..... well, its too much.

[Streetking]

You guys are too much. :rolleyes5 Thanks for all the feedback, it give me alot to think about. I don't want to go with any type of LS motor because I don't want to change my subframe set up. Yody, thanks for the heads up on the 572, I don't know much about them. I will check with Shafiroff to see more options.

As usual, you guys are very helpful, costly, but helpful.. :icon_razz

SW

[kmcanally]

how about a 10,000 rpm SB2? you could prolly pick up a ready to run nascar motor "reasonable".

my sentiments exactly...go to
http://www.musclemotorparts.com/menuleft.htm and check out their complete SB2 Nascar engines they build.

[kmcanally]

Here are the specs for the 750hp race version SB2 from Muscle Motorsports....dayum! Sonny Bryant billet crank,Carillo rods, Wilson intake, dry sump,! Add a 250 shot to that hell for stout bottom end and you will have your 1k hp at the push of a button. The 600 hp street version is virtually the same except the compression is 10:1 and 18 deg heads in place of the SB2's

# 355 – 360 cubic inches Compression ratio 13:1 runs on “race” gas
# Block: Race Prepped Chevy BowTie, 4 Bolt Mains, Splayed Billet Caps
# Pistons: Forged Aluminum Alloy, J&E or equal, Bore 4.125
# Crank: Billet Sonny Bryant, Stroke 3.335, 32-45 lbs. 1.88 to 2.1 rod journals
# Rods: Carrillo or Lentz 6.20” H beam. Carr Bolts
# Jesel Belt Drive Timing Set
# ATI Balancer
# Heads: SB2.2CNC Ported Aluminum Chevy Cylinder Heads w/ Del West 2.150 Titanium Intake Valves, 1.600 Titanium exhaust valves, Comp Cams triple valve springs, Titanium retainers and keys, Copper Berylium Valve Seats, Heads Flow 390 cfm @ .700 lift.
# Cast Aluminum Chevy Valve Covers, personalized for owner
# Jesel shaft mounted roller rockers 1.70 to 2.00 ratio
# Cam: Competition Cams Solid roller, 106 Deg. Centerline, Lift= .706 intake and .630 exhaust, Duration 324 intake and 332 exhaust
# Lifters: Crower or equal, true roller lifters
# Pushrods: CV or equal 3/8” * 9.050 * .080 wall
# Wilson Intake manifold and Tapered 4 Hole Spacer 2.00" Part# 004150
# Quick Fuel 850 cfm “Drag Carb”
# Moroso or equal fabricated sheetmetal drysump pan
# Oil System: dry sump, external pump Barnes or equal
# Specifications subject to change (typical specs. may be adjusted for customer requirements)

[Todds69]

aluminum block and EFI....that's the ticket!!

[ProdigyCustoms]

Remeber too much torque is a enemy on the street. Torque is good, but to much is no good, and the 572s are torque blobs. The car is only 3500lbs or so, you don't need monster torque. I would do a serious RPM motor if you are after sound and performance. nothing sounds like a big block at 8000RPMS! I would go 4.50 bore, short storke 3.75 crank, Big bore to unshroud and allow big valves, short storke to limit torque and turn serious Rs. Big heads, maybe AFR 357s or even Big Duke, Pro Fillers, small big cheifs. Get it to flow north of 425CFM, big roller on 106 or 108 which will sound like it is shooting people, and be a bit peaker at higher RPMS, and kill a little bottom end torque. You could make 750 to 850 NA no problem, and have a road race type RPM range. With the manual trans, and a 3.73 gear, you will have plenty of low end reduction, and believe me, even though it is not making 572 torque, this motor will still make enough torque to blow the tires off at will.

[Steve Chryssos]

As usual, when it comes to engines, I fully agree with Frank. That works out to "only" about 477ci--which will make the bench racers cringe. But combined with a good set of 325cc rectangular port heads you'll have ungodly power where you need it coupled with more than ample power down low. It's a great option for a car that has a mild chassis.

Go with a 10.200" deck height block so that you can achieve ideal rod/stroke ratio--on par with a small block (1.7:1 or 1.8:1). Run fuel injection to compensate for flame travel issues arising from the big bores.

Best of all the engine will last forever. You can keep freshening up the block by boring in .030" or .060" increments every coupla years. The true safe limit on good aftermarket blocks is 4.600", so that's a lot of rebuilds!

Avoid an aluminum big block on the street. Aluminum big block castings "move around" during heat cycling. The result is possible ring seal issues and potential coolant leaks. Expect to re-torque the heads frequently at the very least. That's to be expected with a race engine that gets freshened regulary, but not the smartest idea for a true street engine.
/Steevo

[camcojb]

In a big block I'd stick with a standard deck block. In the aftermarket you can still do big cubes (557+) but the tall deck just makes hood clearance a nightmare.

I'd also lean heavily towards a custom fabbed intake, something unique to make the car stand out even more. EFI obviously.

Jody

[Nine Ball]

Don't get too crazy with the numbers game when it comes to cubes. I agree with what Frank and Steevo are saying. Big blocks are cool, but not as cool as an LS7 or C5R 427 under the hood of that black beast.

8K rpm 427ci would be drool city.

[yody]

I don't know, you guys are throwing out some crazy stuff, If you look at all the othert cars/motors SW has, most of the motors arne't as crazy as you guys are specing, they might have nos/turbos, but i think they are all pretty streetable. The camaro looks like a nice protouring car, but I think a race motor wouldn't really belong in it. I think SW was looking for more of a well rounded streetable motor with a nice sound and lots of power. I like Franks motor as a pipe dream, but would probably cost big time money, like $15,000 to do it right, high rpm motors require big time expert assembly and super high end bottom end parts. 7,000 rpm in a 427 is doable but 8,000 in a bbc is another ball park. Definetly sounds like a nice combo, although I have a feeling with those parts I think he might be able to smoke the tires, but without some steep gearing I think it might be mushy down low. I havne't totally got on my motor yet, but I like it a lot. It has a nice idle but doesnt' shake the whole car, it is loud when you get on it, but not awful. "So far" it seems like I am not just blowing off the tires at any time I think I hit the combo just right. Although I haven't tried a full thorttle blast when rolling, it might just blow the tires off. It seems like it wants to rev and at about 4,000 rpm it just starts breathing, and the car seems like it weighs about 1,000ilbs! I think the 3:73's and the vipert T56 along with the victor jr intake, small rectangle heads(305) and fairly large solid roller and decent header size help it kill a little low end. I think the 477 or whatever would be cool, maybe down size it a little to limit the rpms. I think the 540 would be the easiest/cheapest/reliable out of the bunch. Any of these bbc's are going to give him traction problems.

[yody]

also listen to Jody, he's built a few over the top BBC's!

BTW. the 572 isn't necessarily such a bad motor, its IMO overpriced and would be a pain in the ass to install. and like frank said a huge torque monster, and if there 620hp rating is true then it is a piece of junk, but i have heard it puts out more like 680. Also sharifoff is a good place but there other choices out there too, I recommend a really good local guy

[ProdigyCustoms]

Take it from a former street racer, mushy down low is a good thing. unless you get your rocks off on having a car that cannot hook up. Like we are building, LOL!

[Steve Chryssos]

Yody,
If you don't have enough beans to break loose a tire with a 30 series aspect ratio, you probably shouldn't be in this thread at all. :pat:

In fact, you should pull your carburetor. You may have accidentally left a wrench or a floor jack in your intake tract.

[Orngcrush69]

If you're not going to put it on the track (which you still could) and you have an unlimited amount of money, then go with the BBC.

[Mean 69]

We have a similar question for the engine in our new shop tool. If this is a street car, or will be driven primarily on the street, it is super tough to beat an FI rat motor. Cubic inches rule, period, on the street in terms of power versus cost, versus complexity. Power adders are really awesome, but add weight big time. In order to make things a bit nicer from a balance issue (weight), I'd recommend an alloy block, although I specifically haven't owned one before. The king of the hill in alloy blocks, based upon my recent research, is Donovan. GM and World both offer really nice looking stuff, but if you look at what the really serious races use, and recommend, Donovan is the winner.

Anyway, case in point, the current shop mule has a nice stroker SBC (383). It has a lot of cam, a solid roller with 252 degrees duration at .050", and it is not a really "nice" street motor. It makes 10" of vacuum at idle, so vacumm assisted brakes are a no-go. I estimate power (when tuned right, which is not my personal strong suit), at about 525 - 550 HP. For the current car, we want 650-700 HP. Imagine how severe a small block would be? Eeek.

I love the NASCAR motors, used, they are a terrific value. You'll hate them on the street, because of the rev factor (need to spin them), and more importantly, the dry sump oiling systems. Great for a track whore, not good for a driven car.

Anyway, the thinkig currently is 540 ci, parts are readily available, Donovan block, wet sump, and likely (oh my) a hydraulic cam. Within a few pounds of a iron block/al head SBC, and WAY more friendly and reliable. Too much torque? Well. yes, that's always a possibilty, but if you have too much, there are two things you can do: improve the suspension, and learn to feed the throttle nicer.

Go get 'em!
Mark

[blazer4corners]

A buddy of mine has a PUMP gas 582 in his truck ,made from a 502 block.It don't run any better on race gas than on pump.It's almost 10.1.It does 12.40's in a 1 ton 4wd on rear slicks only.Did I say the truck is setup for pulling and gets DRIVEN on a regular basis.

[yody]

Yody,
If you don't have enough beans to break loose a tire with a 30 series aspect ratio, you probably shouldn't be in this thread at all. :pat:

In fact, you should pull your carburetor. You may have accidentally left a wrench or a floor jack in your intake tract.

It's not that i haven't grown the beans, its that I DON"T want to break the tires loose. also i have a 35 series tire :enguard: I am sure if i put the pedal to the metal it would burn all down the street, but considering there is not sheetmetal on the car, it has about 2 miles on it, and the neighbors are already calling the police, I don't think "trying" to spin the tires is a smart thing.

Just as a side note, my cam is only pulling like 7" of vacuum, it is a tad big though especially for a "little" 454. But the roller helps smoothen out the idle, not from the smoothness of the roller but how the cams are designed.

Frank. I totally agree with you on the torque thing, exactly why I built my car the way I did! All of the drag racers LOVE torque that seems to be the new fad, but as a more all around car/handling car I really didn't want to be burning tires at 60mph at all. I think an aluminum block would be killer, but I believe they are like $4000 dollars bare( I could be wrong here) I don't think the trade off would be worth it, especially since he already stated he wasn't going to track the car and wasn't too concerned.

[Charley Lillard]

Red Witch has over 15000 miles on it's aluminum 532" and has been trouble free fun driving. Now it is being freshened with a bigger crank to make 565" with a W2W fabbed intake. I love big block torque.

[yody]

wow, that is really, really cool, expensive....but cool! You have driven that one on the track right? Can you tell us how the big block behaves on the track? Not that it applies to this thread but I am curious how an engine with a lot of torque behaves in turns, if not on the track just on any kind of twisties. Something like that would be killer in SW's car. Also what kind/size heads is it running with so many cubes? How about header size? Can you give us a list of specs? Would love to hear about that motor!

[Steve Chryssos]

Charley,
I don't think SW's car has much--if anything-- in the way of chassis reinforcement.
/Steevo

[Nine Ball]

Yody, quit using the word "expensive" in this discussion. This is SW we are talking about, I'm not sure he knows the definition of expensive. HAHA

[Charley Lillard]

"Ok guys, I love my Camaro but I want to change the motor. Kyle thinks I should keep a small block, but I love the way a big block looks and feels in a old muscle car. I know it won't handle as well, but I'm not going to track it. I thought about twin-turbo Ls2 ect., but I just want a mean sounding ground shaking big block."

He is not going to track it so the torque should not be a issue. The 532 would be hard to track because of all the torque but it makes a killer street car.

[shmoov69]

Ok, here is my take. The car will prolly not be tracked, just cruised and drove hard like most of us. You got the money (I'm assuming!). There is nothing like the sound of a big honkin' 800 inch engine!
YEAH BABY!! :1st:

[Stuart Adams]

Aluminum Big Block, EFI, sounds good. Especially if you want less weight, BB torque, and great sound. SW, still driving the Trans AM?

[Steve Chryssos]

He is not going to track it so the torque should not be a issue. The 532 would be hard to track because of all the torque but it makes a killer street car.

Let's play out this scenario:
Step 1: Weaken rear frame rails to make room for 13" wide 335's
Step 2: Install 13" wide 335's
Step 4: Add monster torque.
Step 5: Put that crazy texas throttle jockey behind the wheel.

Notice I skipped Step 3: Add chassis reinforcement. Recommending big torque at low rpm without also recommending chassis reinforcement is just plain irresponsible. Track or not, the car will get tweaked.
Your silver car was probably the first to be built around 335's. But the tires are part of a complete and balanced design including matching 275 front rubber and a roll cage. Engine output makes use of the rear tire section width, but not at the expense of the chassis. The Red Witch is similarly equipped.

So hopefully-while at DSE, SW's car will receive the missing links. As of this post, SW has not made any mention of chassis reinforcement, so my input leans towards an engine combination that raises the power band while still fulfilling his desire for a big block.

God I hate bench racing.
/Steevo

[zbugger]

Wow... I actually agree with Steve here. While I think he does have frame connectors, I don't think that's enough. Get on it and hook a little just once and you have a nice wrinkle or angle to the bumper at least. I'd love to see at least a four point bar in it to at least triangulate the rear of the chassis. I just don't wanna see a beautiful car tweaked like that. But I think a high revving big block would be awsome in the car. Make the power sneak up on your passengers. And bring along some adult diapers just in case for them.

[Charley Lillard]

My comments are made on the basis that with the killer cars he already has he would know to make it a complete packaged car.

[Streetking]

Ok guys, first off, thanks for the input. Sorry I haven't responded til now, I went to a car show during the day yesterday, cruise in last night. After finally driving my car around yesterday, I here is my take. The car drives extremely well, has great street manners, runs cool with the a/c on and does what it supposed to. As in my first post, I will not be using this car for any sort of track use. I might run it down the 1/4 mile on street tires for kicks. I have only DSE frame connectors and as Steevo pointed out, if it ever hooks, it wouldn't be pretty. For those of you that really know me, you know whenever I go to the track, I run the hell out of my cars. I just couldn't do it to this car. I have been looking at various engines and I'm going back to my original gut feeling about running a big block. I have other high-tech hot rods so I'm not looking for anything exotic, although you guys have come up with some interesting combinations. I spoke to Kyle earlier today and he has a brand new 514ci. motor(dynos over 700 on pump fuel) that he was going to put into one of his projects and I think I may be going that route. The car will be leaving tuesday to go back to DSE.

Again, as always, I thank everyone for their input/help,

SW

[Streetking]

Aluminum Big Block, EFI, sounds good. Especially if you want less weight, BB torque, and great sound. SW, still driving the Trans AM?

Yes Stuart, drove it yesterday. I heard about you new project, it should be really killer...

hope everthing is well,

SW

[Air Daddy]

I went to a car show during the day yesterday, cruise in last night.
SW


Glad you made it out of Whataburger without a scratch.
I'm sure that little punk would've gotten an ass whippin from everyone there.
Your car is even more impressive in person.
Love it!

See ya out there again, I'm sure.

-Fishman's buddy with the Hoosier hat.-

[Stuart Adams]

SW, Kyle was telling me about your camaro. Great car. Awesome in black. Your car is going back to DSE, now I know why my car at DSE keeps getting bumped out of line, LOL. Talk to you at SEMA.

[yody]

ooh, what happened? fight! fight! .....oh wait I can't instigate If I'm not there!

[yody]

I'd be interested to hear the specs on the 514, post them here so we can see what kinda engine it is.

[Streetking]

SW, Kyle was telling me about your camaro. Great car. Awesome in black. Your car is going back to DSE, now I know why my car at DSE keeps getting bumped out of line, LOL. Talk to you at SEMA.

I'm sure your car gets their "full" attention. I just wish they were closer to me, well maybe not, I don't think I could afford it if they were.. :icon_razz

Frank, thanks, I will see you out there again!

Yody, Kyle is going to send me all the specs tomorrow, I will let you know then..

SW

[Streetking]

ooh, what happened? fight! fight! .....oh wait I can't instigate If I'm not there!

I parked in a space and some kid started to pull right next to me so I move to the other side of the lot. I was talking to a couple of guys when this "hot rod" Montecarlo pulls up next to me. I stood next to my car and this guy swings his door wide open and I caught it just before it hit my car. You could here everyone that was standing there sigh, I just about had a heart attack. If I wasn't standing there, there would have been a big dent/scratch on my door! You would think cars guys would be more careful..

SW

[Ralph LoGrasso]

I parked in a space and some kid started to pull right next to me so I move to the other side of the lot. I was talking to a couple of guys when this "hot rod" Montecarlo pulls up next to me. I stood next to my car and this guy swings his door wide open and I caught it just before it hit my car. You could here everyone that was standing there sigh, I just about had a heart attack. If I wasn't standing there, there would have been a big dent/scratch on my door! You would think cars guys would be more careful..

SW

[]I HATE, HATE HATE HATE HATE, HAATTEEE people that park right next to you when you try to keep distance. People at car shows most of the time are no better than the lady at the supermarket. I park my Tahoe atleast 5 spaces away from people and there is still usually someone right next to me, the camaro almost never sees parking lots unattended for this reason. Most people have no respect for other people's property. Kind of like the parents who bring their little kids to car shows and the little kids run their hotwheels across your car...sorry, big pet peeve of mine [/]soapbox.

[ViperBlue68]

SW you need to go to the VBGarage and take a look at the monster in this 69...it'd prolly give u the bigblock fix your lookin for this is the members name 69camaro638 :headbang:

[69rs]

SW, the real question here is, what's gonna happen to your current motor and when are you gonna ship it over to me?!? That motor belongs in a 69 Camaro and I just happen to know of one!:naughty:

[Steve1968LS2]

I parked in a space and some kid started to pull right next to me so I move to the other side of the lot. I was talking to a couple of guys when this "hot rod" Montecarlo pulls up next to me. I stood next to my car and this guy swings his door wide open and I caught it just before it hit my car. You could here everyone that was standing there sigh, I just about had a heart attack. If I wasn't standing there, there would have been a big dent/scratch on my door! You would think cars guys would be more careful..

SW

Unfortuantly having a "hot rod" does not in effect make one a "car guy"..

And you can't buy class.. glad it was only a close call.. or the stories I could tell of "joe public" and car events..

Can't wait to see your finished product..

[Streetking]

I'd be interested to hear the specs on the 514, post them here so we can see what kinda engine it is.

Here are the specs:

534 ci. 710hp/675trq
4340 Callies Crank
Ported Dart Pro 1 heads 325cc
2.25/1.88 valves
256/264 @.50
632/632 lift

SW

[yody]

get even better specs if you can, like
bore/stroke(i am assuming it is a 540 minus a little on the bore?
What type of cam(flat tappet, roller, solid, hydro, brand also)
intake/carb/efi?
compression
all the littel details like that
Sounds like a nice little motor! Do you know the price(or mind telling us?)

[Streetking]

get even better specs if you can, like
bore/stroke(i am assuming it is a 540 minus a little on the bore?
What type of cam(flat tappet, roller, solid, hydro, brand also)
intake/carb/efi?
compression
all the littel details like that
Sounds like a nice little motor! Do you know the price(or mind telling us?)

4.470 bore
4.250 stroke
10.2 compression
hydraulic roller
Price...between me&Kyle :sleeping:

SW

[yody]

sounds like a nice combo, just beware the "most of the time" a hydro roller in a BBC "should" limit the rpm capabilty to max 6,000 rpm. I would prefer a solid flat tappet, but with 700horse, who can complain! Sounds like a good motor, not exactly what I would build but seems to fit you bill perfect. One other thing is that that cam is preety mild for a 540, If you are looking for something with a somehwat nasty sound that cam might not make for the raspiest motor. However I might just be over nit-picking. I am sure it will more than overkill. Let us know what you decide!
(p.s) the cam I have in my 454 is
256/[email protected] 290/294, .680 lift solid roller, the idle actually is pretty tame, I think that is because it is a roller.

[Streetking]

What's the centerline on your cam? 110/112/114? I want mine to idle with the A/C on, but still sound/run good..

SW

[yody]

mine is a 110, but in a bigger cube motor you should definetly run at least a 112, even better would be 114 for the AC/power brakes, but considering that cam is pretty mild I would say use the 112LSA. The big cube BBC's can easily use a wider LSA, if you wan tthe nasty sound, you need a bigger cam. A Solid roller with something like
300/305 duration
265/270
.700 lift
would really waken that thing up! but the #'s you posted are already real nice for a hydro roller so it might not be necessary to tweak it. If you did go solid roller I would recommend using either
Isky
Lunati(make sure it is one of their newer grinds)
"custom" grind Comp cam
All on a billet core with a cast dist gear
ANd Isky red zone lifters
and the best springs you are willing to pay for Isky makes some really nice springs. Although a solid roller even with the top of the line stuff like that is still not 100% guaranteed to not come apart, especially a hot one like that.

[ProdigyCustoms]

The nasty sound you want comes from tight lobe centers. The tighter the LC's, the more potato, potato,potato it will have. It will also have a higher torque band and less torque down low. I think the 110 is probably a good compromise for you to have some runpty rump sound, lope a bit, but be able to turn on the A/C. 106 or 108 LC's would ive you more stereo through your pipes, but would make it a little more miserable.
I also do not like hydraulic rollers as they have a tendency to go flat up top, but this is not a RPM motor so it does not matter.