OLC 2012 - Reinventing the OneLapCamaro...

[James OLC]

As many already know, the OneLapCamaro has been at Best of Show for the last couple of months getting some “tweaks” prior to testing for next year’s Tire Rack One Lap of America. I had originally planned to keep this quiet until it was “done” but as the project has moved forward I’ve had a couple of people asking for details so I figured that since some pics are already out there anyways so… here it goes…


Long story short – our performance at this year’s One Lap of America was really encouraging (in the big scheme of things). We were competitive in our class and, with the exception of a couple of “melt downs” (not always in our control), we were not far off of a really promising finish in most individual events, as well as overall. I’m well aware of the limitations of the car (mostly related to the front end) and as Mary and I were driving away from South Bend we started to discuss how we could improve the car for 2013…


I knew that we needed more front tire and better overall geometry. We have been talking for 3 years about changing the sub-frame but for me that was too complex (read expensive and risky) a change on its own – it would have required new headers, steering, inners, mounts, and cutting off the old one – so that was “off limits” for now. I also didn’t want to risk “messing up” the car by doing anything that could not be undone or put back. So we formulated a plan…


The front tires and “geometry” could be achieved in one of two ways – subframe or sheetmetal – and since subframe was off the table the decision was to try sheetmetal and so my first call was to the guys who I would trust with any project incorporating tin and paint – **** and Jon and the crew at Best of Show.
Another piece of the puzzle was weight and we identified some of the heavier pieces that could be replaced or switched out – like the rad support and AC components – to take some physical weight off the nose. Carbon was off the table for me (I haven’t had a lot of luck with it) so everything that we were doing would be mindful of excess weight.


The third leg was Aero… David, Carl and I did a fair bit of background work, testing, and experimentation and determined that there were some (predictable) aero shortcomings with the car (in general) that we hoped we could improve on. I made the decision to change the front end (a fair bit), alter the hood for better air flow and cooling, and add some downforce front and rear. There is more room for experimentation but that will be in the future and on the track.


Piece by piece the process has seemed fairly “minor” but taken overall I think they are fairly dramatic. And… to be completely honest… some of these changes won’t be for everybody. Function is trumping form in most cases and that leads to some… different… styling in places.


The process started, predictably, with disassembly (well to be honest the process started with aero testing, wool string, and video) at Best of Show. I made the decision to replace all of the front sheetmetal – packing and boxing all of the original pieces so that they can go back on to bring the car back to “original” some day.


Disassembly:


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20083-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20085-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20086-1.jpg

[James OLC]

The first part of the project was the front end. The goal was to move the front tires out to balance the front and the rear track width and improve the inner clearance to the subframe – all while increasing the tire width to better balance the rear. As it sat the front track width as 2.5 inches narrower than the rear – most of that was related to the offset (about 1.5”) and the balance came from the difference in rim widths. We estimated that we needed to move outside of the tire out by 1.5 to 2.0 inches to match or slightly exceed the rear. This meant building new front fenders that would accommodate the space.

That’s not a revolutionary change with what’s been happening in our community for the past couple of years but we had a couple of specific constraints. I wasn’t going to do any bodywork behind the fenders so no reworking of the doors or quarters was in the card so the stretch on the fenders was going to have to be subtle and entirely done within the confines of the fender. **** at BoS came up with a simple and efficient technique…

They started by separating the inner and outer structure of the fender:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20088-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20090-1.jpg

Then they went to work with the English Wheel
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20091-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20093-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20098-1.jpg

[James OLC]

I think that everyone was surprised at how effective this was – we were able to get all of the room that we had hoped for and a bit more.

Just the inner structure in place:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20099-1.jpg

And mocked up for the first time:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20104-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20106-1.jpg

pictures are a bit deceptive and it's hard to really see all of the change.
At this point the front end is approximately 0.5" wider than the rear (or 0.25" wider per side).

[James OLC]

With the English Wheel we were able to get 2” more width without changing the height or shape of the wheelwell itself.

Measurements Before:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20063-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20068-1.jpg

Measurements After:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20108-1.jpg

[James OLC]

How much room is that? As a test fit we tried putting the current rear wheel/tire (19x11 with a 325/30-19) on the front just to see. The backspacing wasn’t ideal but we had to start somewhere…

"Lot’s" of room:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20110-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20111-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20114-1.jpg

Not ideal but as I said – just a test. I wasn’t planning on the 325 tire up front and the backspacing is off by about 0.5” so our target tire should fit fine. HRE is just down the street and around the corner so they were going to stop by when we were ready to get specific.

And just for comparison - with a current 275/30-18 front

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20136-1.jpg

[srh3trinity]

Wow, that is a big improvement. I love how this car is never sitting still. Progress!

[James OLC]

With the fenders well on their way we moved to the lower valence. I wanted something similar to the OLC2 concept to blunt the overall front end and improve the aero. Testing found a couple of dead spots in the old setup that I thought could be improved upon.

Our first shot started with modifications to the stock valence and fender extensions.

We started simple:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20119-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20122-1.jpg

Test fitting required use of the Track Rat's grill... well it didn't specifically require it but what the heck, it was there...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20127-1.jpg

Subtle and maybe appropriate for a different setup but not quite what we were looking for...

[James OLC]

So from there things got a bit more complicated…

It’s going to be a big change:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20140-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20141-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20142-1.jpg

I'm biased but I love it... it's about 0.5" lower than the old one (valence plus spoiler) and should be slippery...

[James OLC]

As lots of people have found before, it’s easy to design a hood on paper… but it’s really hard to find a design that works with the realities of accessory drives, air intakes, and actual aero influences. We spent a fair bit of time looking at how air moved over the hood and went through a lot of design iterations. Ultimately I turned to a design that Tyler had sketched up for 50/50 at one point; he was kind enough to allow me to try a rendition of it…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20146-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20153-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20160-1.jpg

[James OLC]

Which I think works just about perfectly:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20170-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20171-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20172-1.jpg

You can really get an idea how much wider the front end is compared to "stock" or the old one with the old splitter in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20173-1.jpg

The air intake has to be relocated but it clears all of the accessories and provides significantly more airflow then the old ones. It's also directly feeding out of the radiator and should fit the bill perfectly. The flat hood's going to take some getting used to but I think it will fit the overall package.

[James OLC]

And here is where we take a big step…

Pics say more than words – love it or hate it, we’re trying it:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20157-1.jpg

Aeromotions S2 Active Downforce Rear Wing

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20158-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20159-1.jpg

It has a split element - each side can work ”independent” of the other

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/shop20169-1.jpg

The wing works through a combination of a VSS tie-in along with a 3-axis G-meter. It senses speed and vehicle dynamics and adjusts itself to respond... providing a programmable combination of downforce and drag. Where downforce is desirable - i.e low speeds, cornering, and braking - the wing will provide a user programmed amount of downforce. It will even provide split downforce in the turns depending on the direction you are turning. On high speed straightaways where you don't need downforce it adjusts to minimize drag.

I knew going in that this would be a controversial element but as I said... function first. We're shooting for every last bit we can get and this is a serious tool to help with that.

We'll add a short Gurney Flap to the trailing edge of the trunklid once we're happy with everything back there...

[Hotwhilz]

First car was just amazing, the second one a bit more down for business, reminds me a bit of Agent 47 Harbinger, good feel! Hope all those changes will open a new path to better performances!

Keep us posted

[tazzz25906112]

James I have to tell you that I think this is awesome.... You're forging new ground in the first gen arena,, and I'll be calling for some aerodynamics/wing/ground effects advise when I approach the second gen builds I'm considering currently....

[compos mentis]

Great thread James.:twothumbs

[Vicinity]

What did you do with the old rear spoiler?

Looking good. I actually really like the new hood.

[dylanCamaro582]

Love it. The OLC has been a huge influence to me as it have given me a idea for how to build what i consider the ultimate pro-touring car. Additionaly, I love the fact that you are pushing the envelope of an already amazing car.

[LeighP]

Awesome...forget what people might say about the "look", let function determine the form. Love the technical aspects of the wing.
Since you're going to so much trouble, have you considered a 2nd gen Trans Am style wheel spoiler for in front of the rear wheels?

[sik68]

Everything looks awesome, James! This is the stuff that has been kicking around in many of our brains for years, but you're actually DOING it! :woot:

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/coolrunnings-1.gif























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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/kypafjpg-1.gif

[John Wright]

I'm diggin' this wide track camaro..... :)

[bonecrrusher]

Because. Race. Car.

[CarlC]

I hope there's room for the deer whistles.

[James OLC]

I'll make room. Not that it matters too much - our problem seemed to be hitting the dead ones.

[CarlC]

I wonder if they make 'gator whistles......

[YancyJohns]

James,
It's looking fantastic, are you going to have it ready for ReturnTTC? I'm hoping so!!!!

[James OLC]

just a quick update... we've needed the new front wheels before we could get too much more done but they arrived last week and we've mounted up the 305 and work is once again progressing...

a comparison of the old and new wheels and tires:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/front20comparison-1.jpg

and some of the progress on the trailing side of the front fender - the changes will be (mostly) subtle but should be effective

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/shop20188-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/shop20192-1.jpg

[James OLC]

not at ride height yet but you get the idea...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/shop20194-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/shop20197-1.jpg

We're still playing with exact fitment on the fronts - we've got a small spacer in back right now and with the 305s we've now got 3/4" more room on the back side so we should have better turning radius. Once we get some testing done we can fine tune that bit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/shop20195-1.jpg

Now we'll work on tweaking the leading edge and should be getting close to looking like something...

[James OLC]

There is another part of the "Reinventing the OLC" story and that is the "Reinventing the Driver" part of the program. I'll keep it brief since it's more "personal" than "mechanical" but it is part of the project none-the-less. Ask any of the top drivers in our (or any other) community - Mary, Brian, Mark, Kyle, etc. - and they will tell you that seat time is the key to success. Unfortunately it's not always possible to be on the track as often as you'd like - especially here in the Great White North where they are bulldozing the local race track to make room for the dump (don't get me started) ...

I've done some simple driving schools - Racing Adventures here in Calgary and Mario Andretti in Las Vegas - both of which were ok introductions to driving but didn't really do much in the big picture. I've done the Evolution Autocross school which is run by Mike "Junior" Johnson and features instructors like Ann and Andy Hollis, Danny Popp and others and I would highly recommend this course to anyone who wants to get some hands on instruction for autocross driving. I've also done an introductory course with Skip Barber at Laguna which was probably the best road course experience I've had to date but I still have some bad habits which I want to get over before next years OLoA.

I think that everyone has areas where they can improve - and I know that I do - but it's particularly frustrating to know where those issues are but not have "the answer". Seat time is the solution but without the ability to get some in the OLC right now I decided to try something completely different... Rally School.

Over the summer I headed down to Washington State and the DirtFish rally school - particularly their two day "Introduction to Rallycross" course. It's a cool setup they have on old sawmill - some 300 acres of dirt roads, paved lots, and everything in between. They've got a dirt slalom course, a 2 mile dirt/pavement road course, and they've got a great cross section of instructors and top notch equipment. And if you're old enough to remember... the sawmill is also the setting of the old TV series "Twin Peaks".

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/DF1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/DF2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/DF3-1.jpg

It was a good experience and certainly helped... lots of time with Left Foot Braking... lots of time learning a completely new way to turn - lift, turn, brake vs lift, brake, turn... and lots of time learning new ways to get around a corner - from E-brake turns to the Scandinavian Flick. Definitely worthwhile and hopefully a step in the right direction

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/DF4-1.jpg

It didn't solve all of my problems but I have added some new tools to the box...

[4WardInv]

Super cool project you've got going, it's really giving me some inspiration!

[tazzz25906112]

Way cool buddy.... Tell me something because I'm totally import ignorant,,, aren't those 4 wheel drive rides?? I'd have to imagine that would call for a completely different driving style as stated, none the less very cool and interesting indeed...

[James OLC]

Yeah... 4 wheel drive and turbocharged - makes for a very different driving style indeed. That being said, the mechanics of some often techniques do transfer to 2wd fairly directly (although the reverse is not necessarily true). Using the brake to increase rotation, coupled with left foot braking, is a piece of the puzzle. Using the brake... while under power... to correct or transfer weight... likewise. The '69 will have an e-brake. The big learning curve was the amount to traction and control available on a loose surface. I would - and probably will - go back for the advanced course in a heartbeat. Next up, however, will be a day in Florida driving 'vettes...

[jokerswild454]

Way to go guys, can't wait to see the finished product! Sorry it took so long, but here is what we published on the reinvention...

LINK:
http://www.chevyhardcore.com/news/reinvention-of-the-onelapcamaro/

66270

[killer69]

Good Looking picture rigth there!!!

[mustang351]

I love this car! Great to see you all a continuing the dream! I was going through some old files and came across a photo I took at the OUSCI way back in 2008! (Not trying to compete JokersWild)

66461

[James OLC]

Quick pic...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/shop20231-1.jpg

[dontlifttoshift]

Quick pic = lame........we want many pics.

The raised lip around the hood vents, was this strength, styling, or functional decision. I like the way it looks and it certainly strengthened the sheet metal in that area but I am wondering if it makes the vents more or less effective.

[James OLC]

OK... another quick one...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/shop20224-1.jpg

The lips are (on paper...) - or should be (until testing proves it one way or another) - functional and should assist in the effectiveness of the extractor vents.

[James OLC]

It’s been a while since I updated our progress over at Best of Show **** and the crew have made some great progress and we’re getting close to being back together.

The hood has come out perfectly and definitely exceeds my expectations…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/Front20320qrtr-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/Front20High20dec-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/Hood20vents-1.jpg

It will definitely move some air…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/Hood20Openings-1.jpg

[James OLC]

The rear wing is almost in its final position now with just a little bit of a tweak left on the upright angle. Pictures don’t really do it justice but I think that when everything comes together it will look perfectly at home.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/R220Wing20Back-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/R220Wing20high-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/Rear20wing20overhead-1.jpg

Well… at least as at home as a six foot wide dynamic rear wing can look on anything…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/320quarter20view-1.jpg

[James OLC]

We wrapped up the final basis of the lower valence in December

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/Front20Low20dec-1.jpg

Lots of room for the front tires

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/30520Front20Tire-1.jpg

With the foundation in place we moved to some air intakes – two for the brakes and two for the airbox

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/front20vents20out-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/Front20vents20orig-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/vents20and20start20of20shroud-1.jpg

[James OLC]

In addition to the air intakes we worked on isolating the air intake…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/coolers20and20plumbing-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/Front20jan-1.jpg

And with that done we ran some new plumbing from Spectre for the custom air box that we’ve built in the base of the lower valence

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/spectre20intake-1.jpg

And with that done we’ve moved to some final tweaks on the leading edge of the wheel wells

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/fender20extension-1.jpg

Next up will be the inner fenders and some additional ventilation to keep the air moving… clocks ticking but the wait should be worth it…

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

sweeet..

[CarlC]

.....tick, tock, tick, tock......

Yeah, I know.

Lookin' good James.

[Grim]

Nice work on the fenders They look almost factory and unless you really know the body lines it's not noticeable.

The hood concerns me. At low speeds of auto cross I can see it being good but at higher speeds I wonder if its going to hurt. If you look at designs used by NASCAR they attempt to create a low pressure zone under the front of the car. The low spoiler is a big part. It. Does two things
1 it sucks air though the radiator. That allows them to run less grill and make the front slippery.

2 the more grill they can block the higher the vacuum is under the nose the harder it pulls the front down to the track increasing traction.

Something else that I'm not sure will play in is cowl induction works because there is a high pressures zone made by the air moving over the front of the car. The hood vents will effect that but with you moving the intakes to the nose it won't matter for engine air but might for how clean the air flows over the car into the wing.

Hit ecomodder.com and snoop around they play with airflow a lot. Somewhere in there they have some virtual wind tunnel links.


Speeds up to 50 it's probably a wash but some of the faster parts of one lap it may play into it.

I'm curiose to see how it plays out. Look forward to more updates.

[Brads70]

:kewlpics: Wow great job!

[James OLC]

Eric,
All things being equal, Nascar probably isn't the best comparison for our aero goals and needs but your points are valid. We based the majority of our work on GT2 and GT3 aero packages with a lot of comparisons to the C6-R cars. That was tied to a fair bit of tuff testing prior to commencing work to position the hood vents far enough forward of the windshield and the pressure zone at the cowl to avoid interference. We've reduced the total grill area by about 35% at this point and I expect that after some track and highway testing that we'll eliminate another 20%. There was some prelim testing on that (without radiator cowling or vents) and there were hear concerns. Im confident that we won't have that issue on a go forward basis but without practical testing there's not much point in saying for sure. There is no cowl induction with the flat hood so that is not a consideration and won't factor in to anything in this application. Airflow over the wing is definitely still a bit of an unknown; we did some testing on height and airflow and we know that it's positioned more or less at the lower end of the height for clean air but getting it higher is outside of the design parameters for the wing. We'll aid that a bit through some vortex generators and a gurney flap on the deck lid but again, until we get on the track we can't dial it in fully (that's one of the benefits of this wing, we can actually dial it in vs. hoping for the best).
Cheers

[dontlifttoshift]

ooohh!.....vortex generators. Anxiously awaiting your findings with these. Are you using an off the shelf model or fabbing your own?

[James OLC]

I've got two "off the shelf" (more or less) offerings to test - one is a motorsports version while the other is more targeted at commuter vehicles. Once we're happy with spring rates and bar settings - and once the wing is baselined - we'll do a comparison with the VGs to see if they help, hurt, or just sit there. Once that's done we'll move back to the front again and play with canards a bit...

[James OLC]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/shop20265-1.jpg

getting close - by this time next week... well... we'll see

[Bryce]

looking good.

[James OLC]

ots of progress at Best of Show over the last week...

The new splitter was water-jetted out...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/Feb20820New20splitter20raw-1.jpg

along with a Gurney Flap for the rear decklid...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/Feb20820Rear20Gurney20Flap-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/Feb20820Trunk20Gurney20Close-1.jpg

We'll have new base mounts for the rear wing in a couple of days to get the uprights to the same 11 degrees that the GT-R uses (vs. the higher angle we have now). The curve of the Camaro decklid is a lot more substantial than we anticipated.

[James OLC]

Best of all the valance, splitter, and fender extensions are just about wrapped up...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/Feb20820Front20Drivers-1.jpg

We've captured all of the elements we were looking for...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/Feb20820Front20Passenger-1.jpg

and (I think) that it came out better than I had expected...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/Feb2082020Head20On-1.jpg

everything (more or less) flows and I think it looks like it "could have been" if GT3 was a class back in '67

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/Feb2082020On20the20Ground-1.jpg

A couple more things to button up and we should be close...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/Feb20820Head20on20the20Ground-1.jpg

[CarlC]

That's a fist full of awesomeness!

[parsonsj]

Diggin' it down here in Florida too. Keep up the good work and the photos.

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

That 3 quarter angle drove it home for me..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/Feb2082020On20the20Ground-1.jpg

SICK..

[James OLC]

Some new updates from Best of Show - with luck we should be road testing this week and track testing soon...

New Airbox from Spectre fed from two holes in the lower valance (and two more if need be)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/Spectre20Airbox-1.jpg

On the ground and together...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/Feb201920FR-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/Feb201920Drv20FR-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/Feb201920Pass20FR-1.jpg

[cornfedbill]

Really nice. I like it.

I am eager to see how well the air flows out of the hood. I cannot remember any underhood ducting on the Pratt and Miller GT2 Corvettes when I visited their shop (I was too busy looking at the other cool stuff under the hood to notice). But I see that the production C7 has a duct from the radiator to the hood vent. I wonder if they were getting high pressure flow from the top of the hood to the engine compartment. If you are far enough forward, you may be in the low pressure zone from the hood curvature and it will work great.

I will be excited to see how well it all works. I am sure this will be a killer package no matter how you look at it. Great work!

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

i love it.

[srh3trinity]

Welcome to that rare place where form and function meet. It looks great, I hope it gives you the edge you are looking for. The rear wing looks a little more at home now that you have finished the front.

[Barrrf]

MORE PICS from the side. I want to see how that park bench looks on the trunk lid better. Srs tho. I posted in the "NASCAR in the rain" thread that I really wanted to see how that would look/function on a classic car. I thought it would be pretty cool and its GOT to work better than the little flap that just sticks up off the bumper. I kind of feel like the cars are too pinched off in the rear and spoiler would kind of even out the look - if that makes any sense.

[James OLC]

So more progress as the clock continues to count down... Officially there are nine weeks until the start of One Lap...

**** and company found some chaffing on a couple of the oil lines so we made the decision to replumb a big part of the oil system on the "better safe than sorry" plan. With that done and all of the coolers, tanks, etc. refilled and tested it was time to button things up on the lift and get ready to see the light of day...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/Feb202720Lift-1.jpg

Really gives a good perspective on everything. Headlights are going in today - the LED's require a fair bit of reworking to fit well - and LED signal lights will follow shortly thereafter.

Despite not being 100% ready the car saw the light of day again for the first time "in a while" and I think this gives a good perspective on things. It's difficult with the different colors and textures but overall I think everything came together the way we wanted.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/Feb202720BOS-1.jpg

The aerocatches are right at home and should work well (I've seen too many hood/windshield matings on the track to run without pins) and even at idle with the fans running the hood vents are moving a bunch of air.

Which leads us to the inevitable first road test..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/Feb202720testing20front-1.jpg

No that's not Greg driving (I had to look twice to be sure) :) ... we'll play a little bit with ride height (probably bring the back up a tad) but you get a good perspective on the balance between the front and back now. We have a spacer on the front and will fine tune track width and clearance as we go but for now no rubs...

From the back:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/Feb202720testing20rear-1.jpg

Gives a good perspective on the work that was done to the front fender behind the wheelwell. Wing is still split as we haven't run power to the controller (on the agenda for today) but really doesn't look out of place (personally I think the trailer hitch looks stranger than the wing).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/Feb202720testing20side-1.jpg

Overall it's coming... a few more bits and peices to button up and a couple more short road trips and hopefully we'll be ready for some track time at Buttonwillow in a couple of weeks.

[Barrrf]

I love the wing. I love it. I love the front. I love the side.

I love this car.

[srh3trinity]

This further confirms that with the mods to the front, the wing makes more visual "sense" now. Looks awesome. I am going to try my hardest to get to one of the Alabama events. I watched you and Mary run the very last lap at Barbers a few years back and it was cool to see one of the cars from the forum. I couldn't get off work quick enough to see the whole event.

[James OLC]

Thanks

Hope we see you there - Alabama will be a busy day with two events on the Road Course followed by two more on the Drag Strip in the afternoon/evening. Couple that with the NASCAR race (and traffic - hope not) that day... I'm guessing it will be one of our hardest...

[srh3trinity]

Thanks

Hope we see you there - Alabama will be a busy day with two events on the Road Course followed by two more on the Drag Strip in the afternoon/evening. Couple that with the NASCAR race (and traffic - hope not) that day... I'm guessing it will be one of our hardest...

Whoa, I didn't realize that was race weekend. I am not sure where the road course is relative to the Superspeedway. Hopefully, you guys are running during the middle of the race because before and after really turns the interstates and small highways around Talladega into parking lots. I don't know if it is still true, but they used to say that during those two weekends, the small city of Talladega becomes the 2nd or 3rd largest city in the state. I wonder why they planned it that way?

[Barrrf]

Set aside the looks of the wing - Id like to see some data on how it functions. Downforce is easily measured - but a wind tunnel, that could get expensive.

[HectorM52]

There's something about this picture that makes the back side of the front fender look weird. Is it just the angle of the pic or a shadow? Or does it kind of curve "in" towards the engine and look really out of place?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/Feb202720testing20side-1.jpg

[James OLC]

It definitely (intentionally and severely) curves inward at the base. It may look out of place from certain angles but its 100% function over form. The guys at BOS can attest thought that it is easier to want to do than it actually is to do.. the cowl tulips go alot further forward than you would think. Purpose it to help evacuate the air from the wheelwell as efficiently as possible.

[James OLC]

Almost there...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/Mar20620Lights20off-1.jpg

Low Beams
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/Mar20620Low20Beams-1.jpg

Hi! Beams
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/Mar20620Hi20Beams-1.jpg

[CarlC]

Looking great James!

[James OLC]

Thanks Carl! Best of Show got the lights working today and put power to the rear wing for the first time. When you power the wing I it goes through a self-diagnositic where it runs through all of its different settings before retuning to neutral. **** says the first time it got about halfway through and nobody knew what the heck was going on...

Two weeks today we hit the track...

[454bug]

Awesome transformation James!! :twothumbs

Best of luck to you. I can't wait to see how much you move up the "Overall" ranks! :drive:

[KnightMare]

Man, this is the car mad max wish he had. I was on the fence about those LED headlamps but I got to get a pair after seeing them on your car. How much trimming you had to do to get them in the housing?

[4WardInv]

The car is looking great, can't wait to see how it performs!

[RobNoLimit]

It was cool to see the and you guys at Willow. Pretty impressive looking. All the updates fit really well. Good luck on the One Lap

[James OLC]

We've now done a few test sessions and are pretty happy with the way that things are working. I'll add some additional documentation shortly about the specifics of our test sessions at Willow Springs but for now a quick update:

We got the wing (mostly) working:

p0lfjBz-C_E
We ended up shorting the VSS signal line when we swapped shocks in the pits so the high speed correction wasn't working properly but you get the idea. We have some additional work to do on dialing the angles in for the airflow off the first gen but so far, so good.

Mary took some laps on the big track at Willow Springs:

0zqrdbjmKwc
It was her (our) first time on the track and things went well all things considered. We had some rubbing issues with the front end (which more-or-less fixed itself) but other than that everything was perfect. The rub was actually really interesting... Carl went out and came back with some mild damage do to a rub with his new setup and as I walked back to the OLC I found damage at exactly the same spot. If nothing else demonstrated the similarity of the two cars (at the time).

With a couple of days on the road course done and a couple of autocross weekends in the books the car went to Car West Elite in Freemont, CA to get the front end prepared for the wrap and for the wrap itself. Nice thing about Car West is that their general manager - the talented Mr. Brian Hobaugh - is pretty understanding of what we are doing. I can't thank Brian enough for getting things squared away.

Here she is before the wrap:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/67CarWestElite1-1.jpg

and with everything done:

[CarlC]

29 more days. Tick-tock, tick-tock.

Looking great. You're pretty good as far as prep goes.

[cornfedbill]

That wing is just sick.

Great work.

[James OLC]

Thanks Bill - I'm really happy with the car and at this point I think Mary and I both feel that the ca is as good as its ever been...


29 more days. Tick-tock, tick-tock.

Looking great. You're pretty good as far as prep goes.

Yeah... 4 weeks... I could use another month...

[j-rho]

What kind of times did it do at Willow?

[James OLC]

Slow - it was our first time on the track and with One Lap only a month away neither of us wanted to do anything stupid. I think 1:38 was about as hard as we ran. There was some time to make up down the hill at 5 and try as we might I don't think either of us felt like taking 8 at much more than 110. I can't wait until we can head back and try it again.

[Barrrf]

Ive seen that wing before somewhere..............Aeromotions?

Edit: just found it in the thread :thumbsup:

[James OLC]

Yes - its an Aeromotions S2.Dynamic wing. For all intents and purposes it's banned from most sanctioned competitive racing series. I picked it up off ebay in the spring from a TT team that was changing classes and wouldn't be able to use it. It amazes me how light it is - 12 pounds - less than the blade spoiler which has found a temporary home on Carl's '68.

[dontlifttoshift]

James, dumb question. How big is the dry sump tank on your car? Ever had any oiling issues? I goggled it until my fingers bled and couldn't find it anywhere.

Did you tuft test the hood vents yet?

[Barrrf]

I have a tough time finding any thing of significance on ebay wing wise. NICE FIND! :bananna2:

[James OLC]

2.5 Gallons (6" diameter, 19.5" tall) - Peterson makes the tank - I think that the part number is PFS08-0025-ATS. I don't see it anywhere on the SpeedTech sight but the tank is available from Peterson (also in a 3.0 gallon version) and some of the on-line box stores. To my knowledge I have never had an oiling issue that wasn't caused by my own mistakes. Easiest think to do wrong is to overfill the tank and then end up puking most of the oil out into the breather (and eventually on to the floor).

We didn't tuft test the new hood (yet) - more or less ran out of time - but at Willow Springs in 75 degree + ambient heat the car came off the track at 180 degrees or lower so I am confident that we are getting "ample" airflow through the new hood.

[James OLC]

I came across it but luck in one of my daily "race car" searches. It was a buy it now deal with a best offer option. I made an embarrasing best offer and waited. One of the nice things about illegal parts is that the market is pretty small. I figured that for what I paid for it I could recoup the investment without much difficulty and it would be worth the risk. I'm not 100% sure that we are seeing a huge benefit from it but again, the car is better than it has ever been... so who is to say?

[dontlifttoshift]

So this one http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/tank_LS7.html

I wonder what the difference is between that one and this 6" x 19.5" othere than the extra port for a scavenge line http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/tank_stand.html

Sorry for the hijack

[James OLC]

Well I was going to wait on these but since they are already out there... I give to you the 2013 OLC.R

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/OLCR-1.jpg

Huge thanks to everyone who made this possible - **** and the crew at Best of Show Coachworks for turning my vision into reality from 3000 miles away, Brian Hobaugh and Car West Elite and Elite Auto Films in Fremont for cleaning everything up and doing the wrap and, as always, the Pozzi's for handling the PITA things.

[andrewb70]

Sex...


Andrew

[Todd in Vancouver]

Awesome looking machine

[Bryce]

looks very good. congrats

[Barrrf]

Omg moar!!!!

yuno post the other pictures of OLC.R? I like #4 personally.

And what exactly do you tow with OLC?

[67CamNKC]

Awesome. Looks like it means business.

[avewhtboy]

One pic, what a tease

[Kenova]

And what exactly do you tow with OLC?

A coffin LOL.

Ken

[James OLC]

A couple more pics to tide everyone over until we can get some better ones... unfortunately, the reality that the car has to leave next week dictates that some mechanical prep has to take precedent for a day or two...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/OLCR201a-1.jpg

and one of my personal favorites

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/OLCR201b-1.jpg

[James OLC]

and a bit of history saved from the past...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/OLCR20Stick-1.jpg

[James OLC]

Omg moar!!!!

And what exactly do you tow with OLC?


A coffin LOL.

Ken

THE coffin... :)

[CarlC]

It is simply amazing how much a color change can make in a car. Great choice James.

[ChevelleNV]

Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Icanfaptothis_328adca866d26a8cf1b6dc5d18-1.gif
I second that.....

[BuddyP]

That front clip looks badass James! Good luck this year, hope to catch ya one of the days in Indiana!

[snopro]

I second that.....

Thats what I would be saying as it goes by doin 150mph :)

[snopro]

That was supposed to quote vengeance im an idiot haha

[James OLC]

I had skipped a couple of steps in the process lately so now that I have a minute (or while I still have a minute, depending on how you look at it) I figured I’d get this thread caught up.

Last month we had an opportunity to secure some time at Willow Springs (one day on the Streets course and one day on the Big course) for some testing. I invited Bret and the crew from RideTech to come out (since they were in town for the Hot Rod deal in LA) and we were fortunate that in addition to Brit they were able to convince the guys from Fox to come out with their tech van.

With the changes that we had made in the aero, track width, and tires - and with a couple of days of not 100% pleasant autocross testing – we increased the front spring rate 100 lbs. and the rear 75 lbs. and loosened the rear sway bar about 50% to get the car to rotate better on corner entry. These changes made the car noticeably stiffer on the road but surprisingly soft on the road course. Over the course of testing we gradually stiffened up the existing shocks until they were maxed out on all settings. That’s when the crew at Fox, directed by Britt’s expert evaluation, stepped in.

First bit of fun was pulling the front shocks out:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Willow20Test2020swap201-1.jpg

which is not the fastest or easiest thing to do outside…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Willow20Test2020swap202-1.jpg

but we got it done nonetheless and then the techs at Fox did their thing

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Willow20Test2020Fox-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Willow20Test2020Fox202-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Willow20Test2020Fox201-1.jpg

putting a custom tune in the front and rear shocks that was ideally suited for the car.

The results were nothing short of amazing! I have to admit, never having had an opportunity to work in depth on shock tuning with true experts this was an eye opener for me with a lot of the adjustments being somewhat counterintuitive… adjust the back to fix front, change the rebound to smooth everything out, etc.

We are definitely fortunate in our community to have RideTech not only providing such awesome products, but also being dedicated to improving them – not through computer simulations or guesswork but by doing real world testing a development. It was also amazing to listen to Britt evaluate the cars from the sidelines, noticing even minute oscillations… “the car is bouncing three times on hard braking… we can tune that out by…” or “the front end is coming too far up (too far being about a half an inch) under hard acceleration… we need to…”

This was one of those days that made me exceptionally pleased to say that I am a very satisfied RideTech customer and am honored to represent them.

Shock testing done on the Streets of Willow led to some fine-tuning on the Big Willow track (see the videos a couple of pages back)…

[James OLC]

With testing done and evaluating our options for wrap designs we shipped the car off to Car West Elite in Fremont, CA for a final cleanup of the front bodywork and installation of the wrap at their sister shop Elite Auto Films.

A couple of “in progress” shots

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Elite207-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Elite208-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Elite209-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/OLC20L20FRT-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/REAR-1.jpg

And a couple of ‘finished product” pics back at David and Mary’s house:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/OLC2020DM20side-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/OLC20DM20close-1.jpg

[James OLC]

With the car safely back in the Pozzi’s garage it was time to get down to the business of prepping the car and taking care of some last minute tweaks and fixes…

The axle bearings on the Baer Full Floater need a bit of a tweak

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Axle20Brearings-1.jpg

The car was scaled, ride height was adjusted, and aligned was checked and set

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Scaling-1.jpg

and new brake pads were installed on the front along with fresh tires on all four corners.

With the new front end we have provisions for some basic air intakes for the new Spectre air box and the big Baer brakes. I didn’t want what I would call perfect ducts for the front brakes – we have way too many highway miles and honestly too few consecutive track laps to require a semi-sealed duct. The decision was made to run 3” ducting to just behind the brakes and direct the air towards the rotors. It should do the job without overcooling the rotors on long road runs or in wet weather…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/brake20duct2020drivers-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/brake20duct2020passenger-1.jpg

[James OLC]

Along with “the basics” there were a couple of other things that we needed to address before heading out…

We didn’t have a chance to finish the inner fenders out of metal so we decided to quickly fabricate some panels out of plastic. A trip to Home Depot, a black spray bomb, and some Stock Car rivets and we’ve got sealed inners (in anticipation of a wet week coming up):

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/inner2020white20prelim-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Inner20black-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Inner20fender20rivited-1.jpg

admittedly probably not going to win any points next time we hit a Goodguys show but they should work.

David fabbed up a new shutoff switch on the battery

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Shutoff20switch-1.jpg

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

And we added some mesh to protect the oil cooler and radiator.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/grill2020finished-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/grill2020closeup-1.jpg

Staples to the rescue for this one… going from this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/grill2020starting-1.jpg

to this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Front20in20the20sun20DP-1.jpg

Mary took the car for a quick test drive (deciding that cycling shoes weren’t ideal in the process) and discovered that we had no tail lights… which led to an 11th hour thrash to track down the problem. We’ve had tail light issues EVERY year we’ve run One Lap and have spent too many hours on the side of the road trying to figure out what was wrong but never obvious (’10 – internal trailer plug short, ’11 – raccoon induced short in front signal light, ’12 – bad LED board on the passenger side). This time I think we caught it before heading out… once again not really obvious – the wrap guys had removed the rear bumper and pinched the license place light wire behind it, creating a dead short.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/shorted20wire-1.jpg

I hope that we nipped this one before OLOA this time.

[James OLC]

With a week of testing, a couple of weeks of wrapping, and a ten days of dedicated prep work the OneLapCamaro is buttoned up and ready to go!

David took a moment to snap some pics on the final test drive:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/OLC2020DP20out201-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/OLC2020DP20out202-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/OLC2020DP20out203-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/OLC2020DP20out204-1.jpg


Before trying to load it up in anticipation of car leaving on Friday. Some things fit better than others…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Loading20spare2020not-1.jpg

[James OLC]

L.A. Prep (http://www.lapreptransport.com) picked up the car Friday afternoon in one of their deliberately non-descript but state-of-the-art transporters. They’ll bring the car to Long Beach where we will await the arrival of Mr. Casanova and the Honor Flight Camaro before heading off to FM3’s shop just a stones throw (ok a long stones throw) from South Bend.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/LA20Prep20Loading201-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/LA20Prep20Loading202-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/LA20Prep20Loading203-1.jpg

Next stop is the 2013 Tire Rack One Lap of America!

[andrewb70]

uHZJej98_T0

:drive:

[Kenova]

Staples to the rescue for this one… going from this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/grill2020starting-1.jpg

to this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Front20in20the20sun20DP-1.jpg


:lmao:
That is priceless!
Ingenuity at it's finest.:1st:

Ken

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

Absolutely LOVE this car..

get em!!!

[James OLC]

Nice thing about office supplies is that they don't seem to fall in and out of favour like car parts. We used the in/out box for this set on the OLC back in '08 and you can still get them off the shelf :). That and I think the garbage can cost less than 10 bucks.

[CarlC]

Yep, it's $9.99, if they have them. I struck out twice. Larry found some expanded metal mesh, similar to yours, in the ventilation department at Home Depot.

Looks like our cars will soon be spending some quality time together on the LA Prep truck!

[James OLC]

And so it continues…

After a pretty good One Lap of America this year Mary and I were faced with the reality that the OLC was getting a bit old in places and was starting to show some wear and tear from five years of gentle use. The engine and transmission were starting to show their age and if we were going to run the OLOA for a fifth time with the car - and if we hoped to once again improve our overall finish - some changes were once again in order. As we discussed our strategy for next year we accepted the fact that the engine needed to be rebuilt or replaced, we knew that the transmission needed a freshening, and we felt that the car itself needed some tweaks to get in to fighting shape for what will most likely be its last One Lap competition. So – after some furious phone calls and emails we formulated a plan and, at this point, we’re well on our way to working our way through it.

Here it is…

The Katech “Street Attack” LS7 has been sold and a new Katech LS7 will be taking its place. The new bullet makes a little bit more power and a little bit more torque and will be getting an updated intake, oiling system, and maybe a trick here or there.

The MEFI4B ECM is gone and will be replaced by a much more powerful and flexible Holley Dominator EFI. The Holley system has loads of options that the MEFI just couldn’t match and will a welcome addition to the OLC’s critical systems. Davis Technologies will be providing Traction Control technology that should help us in just about every event that we encounter in the OLOA.

The Tremec T-56 Magnum is off for a rebuild. We found some issues with the slave cylinder which lead us to examine the somewhat wobbly input shaft. This transmission is also a very early Magnum and will be updated to the CF synchros as part of the rebuild.

Centerforce will be rebuilding the DYAD Dual Disk Clutch as part of some routine freshening. This has been an awesome piece for us – outlasting and outgripping anything that we have tried before – and has proven to be perfect for our power levels and use.

The car is going on a diet… the OLC is – and always has been – a heavy car and if we’re going to get faster we need to shed some weight. Our goal is 250 pounds… which is a lot to hope for but I think that we can get close. Some will be easy, some will be painful, and some will be a challenge but at the end of the day I think that it will be worth it.

And the kicker…

The stock subframe is coming out and an Art Morrison Enterprises custom tweaked front subframe will be taking its place. The AME sub will be made even better thanks to some bits and pieces from LG Motorsports including billet drop spindles, monoball bearings, race hubs, and brake ducts.

This is a huge leap for us and will require a pretty daunting amount of work to get right. With that said, grab some popcorn and follow along as we work though what should be the second to last reinvention of the One Lap Camaro…

[LUV2XLR8]

Love the front end of this ... where did you find the head lamps?

[James OLC]

Headlights are JW Speaker - available from most 4x4 shops at reasonable prices.

[nicks67camaro]

Nice, I think we all been waiting to see what your doing next on the car. Is the OE subframe finding a home in your current stable of cars? I see 2 other first gens listed in your signature.

[James OLC]

A lot of what we're doing here is predicated on the '67 "Recycler" project moving forward. I recently sold my '68 to fund work on the '67 and when looking at some of the components it made more sense (to me) to upgrade the OLC and use the hand-me-downs on the wife's car vs. replicating some of the OLC bits on it. The Recycler will be gettting the OLC's subframe (complete), headers, and exhaust which should work nicely as well as Mary Pozzi's Baer Brakes, Track Rat's 5.3 engine and a pretty cool transmission used in one of G-Force Designs SEMA cars.

The '69 has a full SpeedTech subframe and torque arm setup which will be perfect for the car.

[nicks67camaro]

Thanks for the reply! Keep the pictures coming!

[James OLC]

So we kicked things off about a month ago…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/OLC20ready20to20start-1.jpg

I came across an outstanding deal at Katech on a Street Attack LS7 that had a pretty short fuse so the first order of business was to sell the old engine. It was in great shape but starting to hint at its age under hard use so I posted it up on the forums at what I felt was a pretty fair price for what it was. It sold in about three days to a board member who was looking for something complete. It was sold complete including ECM and dry sump system so we were going to be starting fresh on a number of bases.

First things first – time to get the old one out…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/old20engine20ready201-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/old20engine20ready202-1.jpg

The first hiccup came before we even had the old engine out… the shipping company had decided not to deliver the new engine on Friday as promised but were more than comfortable trying again on Monday for a small fee… not great when we’re under a bit of a time crunch. Mary was kind enough to hop in the truck and drive to the terminal for a “customer pickup”…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/uncrating20new20engine-1.jpg

and came back with a really big box…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/New20engine20vc-1.jpg

I’ve always liked redheads.

[James OLC]

So with the new engine “in hand” it was all systems go for pulling the old engine out…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/old20out20with20new-1.jpg

which left a pretty big hole

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/engine20out-1.jpg

[James OLC]

Part two of the weekend was the start of the diet. We pulled the fiberglass headliner, the air conditioning unit, the quarter window regulators, some miscellaneous panels and the passenger seat. Every piece that came out was weighed and documented to track our progress. By the end of the first day we were down about 135 pounds. With the easy stuff done we moved on to the hard stuff…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/roof20dynamat-1.jpg

All of the dynamat that we can reach is coming out… started with the roof… headed to the trunk… and then the rest of the cockpit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/trunk20dynamat-1.jpg

This is about 25 pounds of dynamat… probably half of what we have coming out (give or take):

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/pile20o20dynomat-1.jpg

Before moving on we got some of the ‘bad news’… the slave cylinder had some really weird wear and the pilot bearing was equally bad.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/old20TOB20ugliness-1.jpg

It all lined up to a more serious transmission problem than we anticipated.

[andrewb70]

James,

It looks like the pilot bearing failed and the input shaft had no support, which I would guess wore the slave.

I suggest using a bronze bushing. If it's good enough for NASCARs it should work well for you. Make sure you get a pure bronze one...it should not be magnetic.

Andrew

[James OLC]

Andrew - we more or less agree. I think what happened is that the "last" pilot bearing was wearing/failing and started the issue. This was a bronze bushing but I wonder if the damage was not already done and it led to premature failure. We're going to use a pilot again this time and see how it reponds to the first few months of use.

[James OLC]

So with the old engine gone it was time to get things cleaned up and ready for what (at the time) was planned to be a “simple” engine swap. Mary dove in head first to tidy things up…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/mary20cleaning20engine20compartment-1.jpg

but then, after some always dangerous thinking, talking, and planning we came to the decision that if there was ever a time to do a sub swap – it was now. There had always been a list of reasons not to do it but with the new front sheetmetal most of those reasons were gone. A huge part of the decision making process surrounded the factory “dry sump” oiling system. In stepping things up a notch there were some avenues we looked in to to add a scavenge stage to the oil system. None of them, however, would work with a stock subframe without a significant amount of cutting. Couple that with the need for a subframe for my other ’67 and I eventually convinced myself to do it.

After some talking with a couple of vendors I wound up working a deal with Art Morrison Enterprises to build a slightly custom subframe. The tweaks we requested were pretty minor and AME accommodated them without hesitation and a week later it was in the shop and off to powder.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/new20sub20in20box-1.jpg

I know that you’re supposed to mock everything up and do all of the little work before committing to power coating but in this instance I just didn’t have the time to “waste”. With only a short travel fuse to work with we needed to have everything together for an all out thrash over the weekend.

Parts were ordered

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/boxes20to20start-1.jpg

and we were off!

[James OLC]

Our starting point was the engine – although it came from Katech fully tested and broken in on the dyno we wanted to do an intake swap and do some work to the stock LS7 oil pan before bolting up the ATS Sidewinder accessory drive and modifying it to eliminate the AC compressor.

The intake of choice was an LSXR 102mm from FAST with Katech billet fuel rails. A pretty straight forward – albeit time consuming – installation.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/Installing20intake2020removed-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/Fast20LSXR-1.jpg

which was followed by some modifications to the stock GM oil pan with an Aviad sump and windage tray. We’re working on some modifications to an ATS oil pan but those will have to wait for another day while we work out some of the details.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/aviad20sump-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/aviad20windage20tray-1.jpg

and an Improved Racing thermostat

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/improved20racing20thermostat-1.jpg

with a GM -12AN conversion kit

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/an20converions-1.jpg

Until finally everything was ready…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/new20engine20ready-1.jpg

The first hiccup of the weekend came when we went to bolt the ATS Accessory drive on – the water pump wouldn’t clear the intake and the back of the impeller was interfering with the timing cover. Not a huge deal but an hour and change of messing around and grinding was needed to get everything to fit right

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/accessory20drive-1.jpg

There is some more work to do but ultimately the AC bracket will be eliminated and a Katech tensioner will take its place – it looks like it will all work but we need to make some spacers to get it just right.

[CarlC]

James,

Likely too late now but perhaps an option would be to use the later model B15-115 sealed ball bearing for input shaft support. It does require that the crankshaft be modified for the larger O.D. bearing but from a reliability standpoint I believe it to be a better option than using the input shaft as a rolling/sliding surface. I'm considering doing this for a future rebuild if I stick with a 24T reluctor wheel system even though I've had no problems with the GM needle roller bearing.

[Muscle Express Ryan]

This is such an amazing car. What were the accommodations AME made? Unless its a top secret deal.

[James OLC]

Carl - the ship has sailed on that option with this engine but I'll definately keep that in mind for the next one (as I watch what you do first) :)

Ryan - Thank you. The modifications aren't "Top Secret" but I want to be careful about giving too much information out about what we did until we see if it actually works or not. Basically we have moved the upper Control Arm mounting points to try to bring the potential alignment specs in line with the C6 which basically means more caster and more negative camber. It's a bit of a mental excercise at this point but until we get on to the track we won't know if it was the right thing to do. Some of the modifications can be undone, others can not.

[James OLC]

With the engine together and ready to go in we turned our attention to preparing the parts and pieces we would need for the new Art Morrison Enterprises subframe.

LG Motorsports hooked us up with some very cool parts and pieces for the C6 suspension.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/LG20motorsports20parts-1.jpg

Billet drop spindles, SKF Hubs, monoball spherical bearings and some prefabricated brake duct backing plates from LG Motorsports. The great thing about the billet spindles is that they incorporate a 1” drop and in our application allow for proper geometry of the lower control arms at a typical ride height.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/LG20motorsports20spindles-1.jpg

The down side is that the steering arm geometry winds up being off. The solution isn’t exactly simple or painless but we’ve done worse to new parts before. The fun begins by cutting the existing arms off the steering arm… nothing like permanently modifying brand new parts. David then went about fabricating some new steering arms.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/blank20steering20arms-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/steering20arms20to20be20welded-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/steering20arms20ready20for20tig-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/steering20arm20surorund20ready-1.jpg

I’d love to be able to say that with the steering arms fabricated and the upright modified that we were on to installing the monoball bearings but, unfortunately, it wasn’t that simple. LG utilizes a press fit design that calls for 3/1000 interference – our control arms had 3 to 4 times that. We tried to work one in but weren’t happy with the way it felt to discretion being the better part of valor we decided to send the arms to LG for installation. Yeah – we chickened out – but I would rather be 100% sure that they were installed right.

The downside for us was that without the control arms we were dead in the water for the rest of the weekend. At least until David volunteered his front suspension for our mockup – we were back in the game!

[James OLC]

Next step – remove the “stock” (and I use that term loosely and with all respect due a piece that has served us well for the last five years) subframe. Our starting point…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/old20sub20ready-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/Old20sub20ready20to20come20out-1.jpg

Except of course… the old sub was kind of at home with the subframe connectors and all… thank you Mr. Plasma

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/david20cutting20plasma-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/dave20with20plasma20cutter20close-1.jpg

and with that done, the rest was easy and the old sub quickly found a spot on the floor beside the new one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/new20and20old20subs-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/old20sub20and20new-1.jpg

Next step – install the AME Subframe…

[James OLC]

Installing the AME Subframe.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/AME20subframe-1.jpg

Powerdercoated locally before we mocked up anything – probably a mistake but time was of the essence. Yes, the color is a bit off but the old sub was painted on top of the powder and ultimately this one will be too – long after the fact.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/AME20subframe20motor20mount-1.jpg

A couple of small changes here…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/modified20AME20subframe-1.jpg

Time to get busy

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/New20sub20ready20front-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/positioning20new20sub-1.jpg

It actually went in easily enough…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/ready20for20new20engine-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/new20sub20from20beneath-1.jpg

and that’s when the fun started…

[Bryce]

LG makes some nice stuff. Are you going to make aluminum steering in arms in the future to save a few pounds?

[cactuss4]

5 years? That subframe (oldie) still looks great!

[David Pozzi]

These steering arms are probably twice as strong as they need to be, I had to heat them to bend the ends in my 20 ton press, couldn't do it cold. I may mill another relief on the back side to shave a little more weight off. My mill was working pretty hard to cut this material, 1045. The weld on "puck" is also 1045 and the welded on wrap is 4130 X .100" thick. I would liked to have pared down the outside edges a little more but since they were torch cut by hand, I had to leave a wider margin around the edges to allow for handheld jiggles undercutting, then had to do a LOT of grinding on them to get down to a smooth edge. At least I'm sure these will not break, so that's worth a little weight penalty. It would be interesting to see how much weight aluminum arms would knock off.

[dangina]

this is the first camro I've been "excited" about in a long time (coming from a hard core mopar guy) I had to read the article from the very beginning. I absolutly love the front end of the car and the direction you have taken this project - I noticed your from Calgary - Is there a chance in seeing this car in person??!!

[James OLC]

It started easy and as expected…

The inner fenders had to be clearanced slightly for the relocated UCAs. This was actually one of the many reasons that we had resisted doing a sub on the OLC in the past – the “original” inner fenders had countless hours (not true – believe me, I counted every hour) of word done on them and they fit very tight to the factory sub; there is no way that they could have been reworked to clear.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/Mary20with20a20grinder-1.jpg

I aligning the subframe in the car we found that the clearance to some pieces “here and there” wasn’t going to work. Space was tight and we didn’t want to completely remove the front sheetmetal so some alternative tools came out of the box. We started with a nice battery operated sawsall…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/james20with20sawsall-1.jpg

and once the battery on that was toast be upgraded to a slightly more powerful sawsall – which dictated that we start taking turns…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/Mary20with20a20sawsall-1.jpg

The problem with sawsalls is, of course, once you start it’s hard to stop… it’s an addiction. Got a problem? Exhaust in the way? Don’t worry – I have a sawsall!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/james20sawsall20muffer-1.jpg

Eventually though you run out of things to cut off and you realize that you’re almost ready to install the engine. First though we needed to get the new dry sump tank in place while it was still “easy”…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/New20dry20sump20tank-1.jpg

The new tank has two input bungs vs. a single that the old one used. This allows us the option of adding a scavenge stage to the oil system. And a quick hint if you’re building an LS7 project – compare part numbers before you buy… some vendors charge a premium for a basic tank that’s labeled a pro-touring conversion tank…

Ready to get on with installing the engine…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/Ready20for20new20engine202-1.jpg

[James OLC]

With the engine compartment ready we needed some prep on the engine starting with the clutch. We’ve been using Centerforce’s DYAD clutch for the last couple of years and have been really happy with them. When we pulled the old engine we shipped the old clutch back to Centerforce for an inspection and rebuild… the new one arrived just in time for installation.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/Centerforce20DYAD20box-1.jpg

The dual disk design works really well and has awesome holding power… the darn things are like jewelry as well…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/Centerforce20disk-1.jpg

The flywheel is lightened and is as awesome as every other piece of the clutch

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/Centerforce20flywheel-1.jpg

and it all goes together smoothly… if you follow the instructions…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/clutch20installed20on20engine-1.jpg

[James OLC]

Finally time to install the engine… This was the second huge fear that I had with the sub swap – where would the engine end up and would it (and the transmission/bellhousing) clear everything? There were a couple of spots that were really close on the old combination (consideration #1 when building something custom – there is such a thing as fitted too perfect) and depending on where the engine wound up it could be a real pain. The engine slid in really well until we reached the motor mounts… that’s when we found out that I had installed one side upside down… damn. Again, instruction #1 is test fit – ignore that step at your own peril.

After a quick swap (that’s easier done with the engine on the floor vs. hanging above the car but heck – that’s where we were) we were ready to try again. The drivers side slid into place without problems but we couldn’t get the passenger side to seat – the energy suspension motor mount was hitting the frame (see note above RE instruction #1). Again – the fix was probably easier with the engine on the ground but…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/grinding20motor20mount-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/grinding20motor20mount20close-1.jpg

An easy fix…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/grining20motor20mount20finished-1.jpg

With the engine in place and everything clearing better than we hoped, it was time to bolt up the new bellhousing. The quicktime piece saves about 10 pounds over the McLeod SFI piece but again, here was another unknown. There was lots of questions surrounding the use of the T56 bellhousing with Magnum transmission. Some people insist that there is a spacer required while lots of others say there is not. We were using an LS non-Corvette pilot bearing and out first attempt was without any spacers – which is what we believed to be correct based on the measurements that we had done.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

It fit perfectly with no spacer. A quick check to confirm alignment and it’s on to the transmission

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/dial20indicator20bellhousing-1.jpg

The T-56 Magnum had been sent off to Anaheim Gear for an inspection and rebuild. They upgraded some of the internals and repaired the worn tip of the input shaft (saving us the expense of replacing it).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/t5620ready20for20installation-1.jpg

and put the old Hurst shifter back on…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/hurst20shifter20plate-1.jpg

[James OLC]

and here we are – engine, clutch, transmission and driveshaft all in and ready to go

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/new20eng20in20place-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/new20engine20in20drivers-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/new20engine20in20front-1.jpg

The plan, at the time, was to test fit the Kooks headers at this point… unfortunately someone messed up (me or Summit) and we wound up with Chevelle headers and not Camaro headers. I can say with certainty that Chevelle headers will not fit. One more lesson – double check part numbers before, during, and after you order something. Good news is the Summit has a great return policy and the proper headers were on their way the very next day.

[James OLC]

We wound up trying the Kooks 1 7/8 Camaro LS engine swap headers on the recommendation of a couple of folks here on the boards. They are stainless, good quality and pretty economical all things considered ($900 and change from Summit with shipping).

Fit on the passenger side is fine

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/kooks20pass20side-1.jpg

With only a bit of work for comfort needed

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/Kook20headers20clearance-1.jpg

And alignment to the AME subframe relief is bang on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/kooks20header20alignment-1.jpg

The drivers side will need a tweak on the third tube to clear the steering shaft and we’ll cut the ends off in favor of v-band style clamps before sending them off for coating.

Busy weekend and we could have used an additional day to get a couple of more things done but all things being equal it was a great effort. At this point in time we’re waiting for LG Motorsports to get our control arms back to us and hopefully we can get the headers turned around quickly. In late August/first week of September we’ll focus on getting the ending plumbed and wired and we’ll get the Holley Dominator EFI hooked up and running – can’t wait!!!!

[diesel25lrs]

James- awesome work so far, moving very quickly! looks like you are running the LG mono ball kit on those arms? I see you were using ST control arms before & you say your waiting on new arms back from LG-did you go with a custom length set for scrub?

[James OLC]

James- awesome work so far, moving very quickly! looks like you are running the LG mono ball kit on those arms? I see you were using ST control arms before & you say your waiting on new arms back from LG-did you go with a custom length set for scrub?

Thanks Josh - I think we got a lot done in four days and hope we can get it buttoned up next time I'm down. The factory sub was (is) using the SpeedTech high clearance control arms which is definitely the way to go with aggressive backspacing. The AME sub uses C6 Corvette control arms, spindles, and hubs. LG Motorsports has a different philosophy vs some of their competitors with respect to their spherical bearings, preferring a press fit design rather than "glue". The recommended 0.003" interference and we found that we had between 0.008 and 0.011. We tried one and weren't feeling good about it so rather than making assumptions or trying to force the issue I decided to send the CAs to LG for professional installation. I'd rather err on the side of caution rather than risking making a mistake on a critical suspension component.

[James OLC]

It's been a while since we have been able to make any headway on the OLC - hopefully that changes next week as we are SEMA bound to represent the great folks at Spectre Performance. We've got a bunch (tons) of work to do but I think everything should come together well.

Baer sent us one of the first productions sets of their all new R-Spec 2-piece floating rotors - not only are they one more tool in helping to completely eliminate pad knockback but they are 3 pounds lighter (each) and are designed for "extreme" use.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/Baer20RSpec201-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/Baer20RSpec202-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/Baer20RSpec203-1.jpg

[RBEAST]

SEMA bound ! Sweet Im looking forward to see the car in person after all the work that has gone into it . looks awesome! see you at SEMA 2013

[James OLC]

Sorry for the delay in updating our progress, I’ve been a bit under the weather for the last couple of months and haven’t been in a position to get any serious headway made on the OLC. With our SEMA deadline now looming large, 100% healthy or not it was time for me to head down to California to put some time in on the car.

David and Mary had both been working on the car in my absence. Work continued on stripping out all of the sound deadener (all is a bit of an exaggeration, let’s say most of the easy to get to sound deadener) and the box is currently weighing in at a hefty 48 pounds…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct20Dynamat-1.jpg

Dave starting assembling the new suspension for the final time. The LG Motorsports billet drop spindles needed to me mated to the SKF hubs with the LG brake cooling ducts added for good measure

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct20020LG20Control20Arms-1.jpg

but first the uprights needed some tweaking to work with the first gen steering geometry. So… under the knife they went

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct20cutting20steering20arm-1.jpg

I’ve said it before – anyone can but an awesome part, it takes a certain kind of special to cut them up.

[James OLC]

David had also been busy fitting the 1 7/8” Kooks headers in to the relatively tight AME subframe. The passenger side fit fairly well and needed only a bit of help to clear the frame rail.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct20pass20side20header-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct20pass20side20header202-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct20pass20side20header203-1.jpg

but as expected the drivers side header needed a significant tweak to clear the steering shaft to the new rack

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct20header20mod-1.jpg

but with a little bit of work there was pretty decent clearance for the steering shaft

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct20Steering20Arm20fits-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct2020Steering20Arm202-1.jpg

A final piece to the puzzle, we decided, was to swap out the solid shaft for a collapsible shaft with a slip yoke – just a bit of added protection for everything. Took a little bit of doing be we got one on the way while the headers went out for coating.

[James OLC]

Saturday morning and the engine continues to come together, we started in on plumbing first thing and test fit the new Holley 90mm Throttle Body. The Kooks headers that David had to tweak are expected to be back later in the day so we’re trying to make some headway while they are out of the way.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct20220engine20coming20together-1.jpg

In addition to getting the Holley Throttle Body in place we started working on a modification to the ATS Sidewinder accessory drive. Since we’re on a weight reduction kick we decided to see if we could eliminate the A/C compressor and idler by utilizing Katech’s billet tensioner unit. Alignment looks good but it’s going to need some tweaking.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct20320holley20tb-1.jpg

While David was assembling the uprights and Mary started installation of the Corvette upper and lower control arms (now fitted with the LG Motorsports monoball bushings) I focused on getting the new electronics installed and wired up. First up was the Holley Dominator EFI, Holley’s touchscreen controller and the Davis Electronics traction control unit which is a direct plug-in to the Dominator EFI unit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct20420Holley20electronics-1.jpg

With the header out it was also an ideal time to get the thermostat plumbing done since access with the header in is, from experience, an exercise in frustration.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct20520thermostat-1.jpg

With that done it was time for a test fit with the still warm headers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct20620header20in-1.jpg

[James OLC]

Mary got the suspension installed along with Baer’s new R Spec rotor and we set the caliper in to check spacing. The brake-cooling duct is slightly thinner than the stock Corvette spacer so we had to fabricate an additional spacer and then shim the caliper for proper alignment.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct20720new20baer20rotor-1.jpg

While David worked through spacers and such, Mary fabbed up a quick bracket for the Touchscreen and TC control while I continued on wiring.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct20820holley20touchscreen-1.jpg

Simple and effective and with a bit more effort on the wiring front, functional as well!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct20920Holley20touchscreen20live-1.jpg

I have to say that I am really impressed with the Holley Dominator EFI unit from a wiring and integration perspective. Holley components are all plug and play and installation, so far, has been a breeze.

[James OLC]

Progress continues on the suspension with the calipers properly spaced out and the additional shim in place the LG Motorsports brake cooling ducts are just about perfect

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct201020LG20brake20backing20plate-1.jpg

With that done Mary focused on installing the shocks while David worked on machining some spacers for the tensioner modification. I, meanwhile, was working on getting the Racepak IQ3 dash to talk to the Dominator EFI unit and finishing some assembly under the hood. The spacers proved easy but we decided that the throttle cable spacer was going to need a tweak to ensure proper alignment with the new intake and TB.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct201120modified20tensioner-1.jpg

It’s nice to have space and the RideTech T3 shocks have lots of room now

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct201620passenger20suspension-1.jpg

We still need to swap the adjustors on the shock but that will be an easy switch

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct201720shock20adjustor-1.jpg

And the remote reservoirs are right at home on the down tubes…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct201220Ridetech20T320can-1.jpg

Making one neat package when it’s all said and done.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct201820passenger20brakes-1.jpg

[James OLC]

Which left with some final preparation work on the engine. Headers are in and fit like a glove…

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct201320headers20fitment-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct201420right20side20header20fitment-1.jpg

The tensioner is waiting on some metric bolts to be finished up (funny, it’s harder than you would think to find 110 mm metric bolts on short notice)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct202020tensioner20and20water20lines-1.jpg

So we’re in pretty good shape for now

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct201920engine20coming20togethe-1.jpg

We’re waiting on a base tune for the ECM that Mike Norris is putting together for us and we’re going to add one of Mike’s pcv breathers for good measure. Once we have that it’s a matter of replacing a couple of hoses, finding a new belt for the serpentine system, and fabbing up a new SPECTRE intake then we should be good to fire it up.

[James OLC]

New steering shaft arrived, as did a new universal joint to accommodate the larger diameter (?) D-shaft

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Oct202120New20Steering20Arm-1.jpg

We’re waiting now for some exhaust pieces from Magnaflow to build a new 3” system and we should have some new wheels coming soon to give us some increased flexibility on tire choices – be we can talk more about that later.

[James OLC]

The LG Motorsports billet drop spindles are more than just a killer piece of hardware - they are 100% functional and resolve a common issue with first gen suspension geometry when running C5 or C6 components. A lot of the time, with stock uprights and (lower) ride heights, the lower control arms end up being non-parallel with the ground which is less than ideal (but obviously tolerable in all but extreme cases).

With the LG Motorsports drop spindles the lower control arms are parallel at ride height. In fact David pulled out his trusty Laser Level to work verify everything and set ride height based on the best possible starting point.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Level20Check-1.jpg

We've taken a first stab at the alignment (rough for now but we needed something to get our wheel sizing correct) and I think we'll end up with between 5 and 9 degrees of caster and about 2.5 degrees negative camber. We're still going around on final specs but it's awesome having the flexibility to even be able to discuss numbers like that.

[Bryce]

James,

This is looking great and should be very functional. I cant wait to see it at SEMA. The floating rotors are really cool and hopefully will trickle down to the regular guys.

If you are ever in san diego and need a metric fastener call up Marshalls Hardware. They should have it. I know BOS is close to ABABA bolts too.

[m1tankr]

I may have missed it, but what were your results of all of the changes? The valance & hood aero changes? I was wondering if you had it to do again, would you have started with the subframe swap to get the tire clearance instead of reworking the fenders? Thanks.

[AZ's68]

Wow! That thing is badass! That's the color that I've been looking for for my '68 Camaro, some sort of satin grey, charcoal or silver of some sort. Now I know that's a wrap, but could you tell me what color that is so I can do some research and see if I can get close to that color?? Thanks man

With testing done and evaluating our options for wrap designs we shipped the car off to Car West Elite in Fremont, CA for a final cleanup of the front bodywork and installation of the wrap at their sister shop Elite Auto Films.

A couple of “in progress” shots

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Elite207-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Elite208-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Elite209-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/OLC20L20FRT-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/REAR-1.jpg

And a couple of ‘finished product” pics back at David and Mary’s house:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/OLC2020DM20side-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/OLC20DM20close-1.jpg