my malibu is running really warm [Archive]

MonzaRacer

12-09-2012, 07:05 AM

OK first of all 200-220 isnt hot UNLESS your engine is puking into tank or on the ground. Another thing, does it cool back down at idle or stop lights?
Also are you running water or coolant and water in 50/50 mix. Another thing is some of the additives dont like EG antifreeze, but then neither do I,,its near worthless in performance cars in my opinion as there is a better component to use in its place.
another thing is if your engine compartment is not venting at cruise the heat cannot go anywhere. IF possible look at back of engine compartment, if there is a rubber strip that seals the hood(assuming your running a flat hood) to firewall, remove that. maybe add few flat washers to hood bolts,between hood and hinge. This is temp to see if your letting the air going through rad OUT of compartment.
Another way to vent compartment is TA fender vents, an air dam under rad support to force air into front of car and through rad.
also many people will buy the super deluxe uber special rad SHROUDS to use with electric fans and most work better when simply sitting next to rad and either pushing or pulling(hot air should blow backwards, towards engine, regardless of using pusher or puller fan.
Now, also how much pressure are you running on your cooling system ? And with car hot and coolant circulating can you rev it up and see lower hose suck shut a little?
AND make sure your water pump didnt accidentally come in reverse cooling. Quick test is have water in system for this, and remove heater hose from top of water pump, and with engine full till water comes out, have someone start it, if water comes out heater hose hole, your ok.
now, has anyone told you how to make stock pumps better?
Pull pump and remove rear cover, see the sheet metal impeller, make or order a sheet metal plate the same diameter, with clearance hole for center of impeller/shaft/etc. then I will drill at least three small holes so as to TIG weld that plate to the impeller (do this ONLY if you see individual blades of impeller. If it looks like solid round impeller, only help you can do is make clearances closer to rear cover.) and decrease impeller clearance to rear cover as much as possible. Minimum spec is best kept at about 0.010-0.015 in. This allows for issues down road.
Doing this makes you a high flow pump for less. some kits use pop rivets but I hate those. Three small tig welds, grounding through the pump shaft works best. Also if its anything other than steel sheet metal, you may HAVE to pop rivet it.

Now lets talk coolant, water works best, but rusts stuff, EG coolant lubes pump seal and keeps things corrosion free. You can add water pump lubes additives but why.
www.evanscooling.com makes a wonderful product called NPG+ and has 375 degree boiling point, if it gets cold only turns to a sluch and requires ZERO pressure to maintain boiling point. SO a 7 psi cap would put you well over 400F boiling point.
Also remember HEAT is what you are TRYING to make. Yes it is heat that your engine uses to make power. Also if your trying to remove large amounts of heat from an engine the dynamics go wonky if it gets hotter. you are using temperature differential to cool an engine.
Point, engine likes 200 degrees, out side temps reaches 100 deg, 100deg differential, modest results AND your coolant is limited by its boiling point PLUS 3 degrees for very pound you increase its system pressure.
Now at 200 degrees, atmospheric pressure and outside temp of 100 degrees the outside air has to allow lots of heat out to stay under 212(boiling point of coolant 50/50 is basically same as water). Ever watch pan of water boil, the little bubbles are called nucleate boiling, your engine is doing this in hot spots and it keeps coolant from touching hot metal and insulates very well.
Now how critical is your cooling system, if your cap, hoses, etc are good, they work fine, but wear over time.
Now lets flush engine out(Evans makes a flush), pull the little core plugs at bottom of block that screw in, me I always use radiator petcocks if can find them, same thread size. Only issue comes if you have GM EFI it is same hole used by Knock sensors. Me I always try to make new drain holes if possible when block is out.
So you flush system, add NPG+ (yes I know its $39.99 a gallon but how much does a cooked engine cost?), no mixing, no need for high pressure caps, less chance of leaks, less chance of damaged hoses and you can really tell if head gasket is bad too!
Now boiling point of NPG+ 375deg F!!!!! Air temp 100 deg, no nucleate boiling and no need for pressure and if your engine runs hotter its makes tiny amount more power (increases efficiency).
Now let recap REASON we worry about temps, use 160 deg thermostats, etc. BOILING POINT OF COOLANT.
We , in using NPG+ have just removed the issue. I like tuning and using 205 deg thermostats, yes cold climate T-stats, why, more efficiency, use that in conjunction with synthetic lubricants, and proper air flow and you make more power as its not going out radiator or exhaust pipe (yes keeping heat IN exhaust pipes is good, it keeps velocity up , another point for later).
So first of all till you decide your done with EG coolan t or water, look for air flow issues, air ROUTING to the radiator and how it gets out of engine compartment.
Had one guy with car that had cut out doors(ex race car) always wondered why interior was super hot, he had no seals between engine compartment and door skin, (yes it literally had NO door frame except some tubing , hinges and outer skin) heat just came right in to his area. He had sealed it back up with glass carpet, rear seats, new roof with no holes ETC. He installed seals between firewall and fender, car got cooler inside, but over heated more. He had to remove front belly pans and have them louvered to remove heat better.
Any questions, ask.
Good Luck
Lee