Floaty steering feel. 69 Camaro.

[keithq69]

I have a 69 Camaro and the steering feels a little bit lite at speed, not the effort but the front end gets lite when changing lanes or on unsettled road conditions.
The car has Nitto NT05 all around.
335/35/19's on the back and 275/40/18's on the front.
The front end is in good shape, all components are stock except for 450lb springs and speed tech upper control arms.
The uppers are relocated down with the Guldstrand mod.
I'm not sure what the alignment specs are, I bought the car from a friend and he had it done a few years ago.
I will be checking that this week.

I know a new steering box and some bump steer correction will help out.
What us the best way to move forward?
I plan on upgrading to AFX spindles or a C6 based front subframe this winter when I swap in the LS2 and T56 Magnum.

Thanks.

Keith Quinn.

[Rod]

thats a can-o-worms were going to open, the aligment should be the first thing checked, most good shops will work with you if you need ball joints replace, some of that wander/float comes from the rubber bushing lower arms (to me the lower control arm, controls the cars tracking, if its woobly, so is the car) if all you have are really big tires and weak springs it will float, I would add a 1 1/8 front sway bar, add the lower control arm to match the top, get some tall upper ball joints, better shocks, better than 450lb springs and so on

[Tony_SS]

Sounds like the toe....

I remember there was a thread just like this not too long ago..

[keithq69]

Thanks guys.
I'll check the alignment first and get the matching speed tech lower control arms.
The ball joints are good. What tall upper ball joint will fit the speed tech upper arms?

What would be a good spring rate for the front?
What about the toe setting, what would you recommend? I'm sure the last shop just set it up with the stock settings.

[77thor]

I don't know about the ball joints, but 600lb springs would work well.
Toe-in should be no more than 1/16"

[killer69]

Thanks guys.
I'll check the alignment first and get the matching speed tech lower control arms.
The ball joints are good. What tall upper ball joint will fit the speed tech upper arms?

What would be a good spring rate for the front?
What about the toe setting, what would you recommend? I'm sure the last shop just set it up with the stock settings.

tall upper ball joints are not required if you have done the G mod. ( they both accomplish the same thing. plus if you are thinking of the AFX spindle they do help correct the bump steer.
i would say most of the issue is in the steering. check the steering column has no play and the racg joint is tight then the box, and work down the line. with the big tires youwill notice everything.
when i did my GN same thing it was fint with the stock tires added 275 on the front and it was all over the road, found the factory steering shaft joint was work out. that fixed it.

[keithq69]

Thanks.

I'll check the steering tonight and see if I find any play.
I was planning on the AFX spindle because it gives me 1" of drop. That would allow me to get the car low without screwing up the lower A arm angle.
My plan was AFX spindles, Speed tech lower A arms and Ride Tech triple adjustable coil overs.
That blows my rear suspension budget though because I'll also need front brakes if I change the spindle. I have 13" C4 brakes now.

[keithq69]

Does the tall upper and the G mod make the effective spindle taller than the ATS spindle?
I know some people run a tall upper and lower ball joint to get more spindle height. I don't want to run the tall lower because it messes with the bump steer too much.
Would the tall upper and the G mod not give me a similar result without messing up the bump steer?

[killer69]

The tall upper BJ and G mod are generaly too much, if you have done the G mod and are looking for AFX spindles then I would sell you the Original height spindle, and guess what they are less money, still have the 7/8" drop. your other option is to reverse the Gmod back to stock and use the extended height afx spindle.

[keithq69]

Had a chance to check the steering tonight.
Had my son turn the wheel with the engine off so there was no assist.
The rag joint is tight but the lower bolt on the steering box is stripped, the box flexed off the bottom of the frame when turned. I'm assuming this was happening while changing lanes which caused the floaty feel.
What's the best stock box to use?
I plan on upgrading the front subframe at some point so I don't want to spring for a new 600 series box.