i need suggestions about notching front subframe to fit oil pan; a-body with lsx

[SVC707]

ive got the LSX engine everything pretty much lining up. but ive got this ls3 oil pan that came with the long block so i figured id use it.
im not building this for a road course etc. so im not worried about oil starvation. it looks like itll clear but id have to take about 2" inches of the subframe and id want to strengthen it rather than just boxing it off. ive got 1" x 2", 1/8 thick bar stock. is this strong enough to weld into place of where i notch.

62087 62088 62089 62090

or ive read the Fbody pan will clear better if thats a better option to not cut the subframe, and then sell this pan/tray/pick up tube.

thanks
steve

[Z06vet]

If you drop it 2" will it still clear all the steering linkage? Seems like a tough area to cut out. The crossmember area is already somewhat thin & flat. Not familair with A-body frome or how much stress is put on that area of the frame. Seems like taking out 2" out of the thickness would make it weaker. I am not much of a fabricator, I'm the type that would just buy an oil pan that fits. There always seems like so many things that have to be modified when building a car, I hate adding to that when a bolt on part is already made to cure the problem, lol. What pan is that on the motor now? Maybe sell it to offset cost of a holley or mast pan. Like to see some progress on your build. Scott

[SVC707]

yeah in my mind, im saying the same thing; to just a buy a new oil pan from autokraft, but thats 400 bucks. if i can make the LS3 pan work is whats mind boggling as i know i have all the tools. but looking to see if anyone else has notched the frame and strengthened it. my trans am has a tubular subframe and held up fine.

[dhutton]

Are you worried that your centerlink/tie rod ends are going to hit your pan? This is a common problem with A bodies. The Mast pan is probably the best option here due to it being very shallow in the front.

[Samckitt]

I have the Mast pan on my LS2 & can take some dimensions for you. Im also debating selling it & going with the CTS-V pan a Monte SS

[SVC707]

the engine is slightly lifted in the rear since its sitting on the frame. but when it drops down and sits it might clear the tie rod ends. i know the fbody pan looks to be the thinest at the front end. i wonder how thin it is with the autokraft pan, no body has posted actual dimensions except for how far back the sump is. which i know will most likely clear.

[rockytopper]

I'm using the S&P modifed f-body pan. As a reference I sit my engine in on a 2x4 block resting on the cross member which means the pan is 1-1/2 inch off the cross member and build my frame mounts at that location. The F-body pan has dimples at both front corners and they clear my tie rods barely at full lock. Good luck all the other pans out there seem to miss the boat on this issue.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/enginemounts-1.jpg

[dhutton]

the engine is slightly lifted in the rear since its sitting on the frame. but when it drops down and sits it might clear the tie rod ends. i know the fbody pan looks to be the thinest at the front end. i wonder how thin it is with the autokraft pan, no body has posted actual dimensions except for how far back the sump is. which i know will most likely clear.

The Mast pan is the thinnest at the front. Thinner than the F body pan.

Dimensions are in the detail pic here:

http://paceperformance.com/i-6305853-mtm401-111-mast-ls-conversion-cast-oil-pan.html

[dhutton]

the engine is slightly lifted in the rear since its sitting on the frame. but when it drops down and sits it might clear the tie rod ends. i know the fbody pan looks to be the thinest at the front end. i wonder how thin it is with the autokraft pan, no body has posted actual dimensions except for how far back the sump is. which i know will most likely clear.

The Mast pan is the thinnest at the front. Thinner than the F body pan.

Dimensions are in the detail pic here:

http://paceperformance.com/i-6305853-mtm401-111-mast-ls-conversion-cast-oil-pan.html

[SVC707]

i think ill build someting similar to this, but out of the bar stock i have. but instead of just one i'll make an "L" brace out of the 1"x2" bar stock and that should be plenty of strength. plus ill have alot of room if i ever need to drop the pan and not have to pull the motor out. ill notch the pan too if it hits the steering linkages and have my cousin tig weld ears into the pan. all in all prolly cost me $40 dollars in material and shipping cost of my pan to him in So Cal.

62109

[MrQuick]

ive got the LSX engine everything pretty much lining up. but ive got this ls3 oil pan that came with the long block so i figured id use it.
im not building this for a road course etc. so im not worried about oil starvation. it looks like itll clear but id have to take about 2" inches of the subframe and id want to strengthen it rather than just boxing it off. ive got 1" x 2", 1/8 thick bar stock. is this strong enough to weld into place of where i notch.

62087 62088 62089 62090

or ive read the Fbody pan will clear better if thats a better option to not cut the subframe, and then sell this pan/tray/pick up tube.

thanks
steve

It might look like it will fit when you drop it but you have to check the clearance when going full turn left and right.

1/8" should be fine for boxing.

An alternative is pushing the engine back and using that 1/8" to make new frame mounts.