Shifter cable routing

[astroracer]

Does anyone know of a way to reverse the cable routing on a normal front exit shifter? The issue I have is routing the cable over the engine cover and down to the trans. If the cable exited out the back of the shifter it would simplify things a bit. I am thinking a bellcrank of some kind. Probably down at the trans to get it out of sight. The shifter I have is a TCI Outlaw and the trans is a 400 turbo with a GV unit.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/MVC005Fvi-2.jpg
The shifter will have to come out when the cover is removed....
Thanks for any ideas you have.
Mark

[BBPanel]

I'd like to know if one can convert to a rear cable exit also - but I have assumed not. So I've searched and only found two shifters that have rear exit. The Winters Performance Shifters (sold by Art Carr http://www.cpttransmission.com/) and the Cheetah SCS (http://www.turboaction.com/shifters.html - but no overdrive). -Bob

[Steve Chryssos]

Build a Z bracket to reverse the motion.

[SRD art]

Maybe a little nutty of an idea, but could you simply turn the shifter backwards? It would take a little getting used to with park at the bottom and 1st at the top, but after shifting a couple days it'd become natural. You'd have a reverse valve body feel though. I Use a Hurst auto shifter in my wagon. The angle on the shifter handle arm is a little steep but I think if I unbolted it and turned it backwards I could see this working for me for a rear exit cable...

[astroracer]

Thanks for the responses guys. I am going to make this real simple. If I drop the shifter into a pocket, built into the cover, so the cable comes out level with the top of the doghouse, I can run the cable straight forward, over the doghouse. I can then poke a hole in the firewall and route the cable down under the passenger side floor. This will get the cable routed away from the engine and 90% of the exhaust. it will require about a 12ft cable but what's a guy to do?
I will then make a closeout panel to cover the cable (and wiring) which will pull off with a couple strips of velcro. Making the closeout panel out of the same carbon fiber that I use on the cover will make it all but disappear...
Mounting the shifter with some quick release pins will allow me to easily remove it and set it on the floor or in a seat to pull the cover.
Sounds like a plan and it is really the best alternative for cable routing.
Thanks
Mark

[dontlifttoshift]

I have used cables that long before and was never happy with them. You wouldn't think it, but the longer the cable is and the more turns it makes, the sloppier it gets. It's not a huge issue but if you are picky about indicators lining up and things like that it may bother you

[astroracer]

Thanks Donny,
Actually it won't be that bad. I am looking at photos and, on the right side of the engine cover flange, there is a square hole which was the old computer connector pass-thru. I can route the cable in a big loop over the doghouse, vertically down thru that hole and then rearward toward the tailshaft. This will be one huge loop, no tight bends at all. I will route some romex along it tonight ,if I get time, but I thinking I may be able to get away with a 10 footer. I plan to hard mount the cable as much as possible to keep loss of travel to a minimum.
added a quick photoshop for cable routing
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Thank you Sir
Mark

[dontlifttoshift]

Mark, why can't you just run off the front of the trans. Straight out the front and one 180* back to the trans. get creative with the bracket and shift lever and you are done......it works in my head.

[astroracer]

Thanks again Donny,
I ran through all of that stuff in my head over the weekend. Routing the cable like I have drawn is totall do-able and will maintain the function of the shifter and trans without any fancy fabrication work.
When I got home tonight I ran the short cable I got with the shifter along my "path".
Up on top, the cable naturally falls down thru the pass-thru.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/MVC007Fvi-4.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/MVC008Fvi-2.jpg
Underneath it sweeps right back toward the rear of the van. Mind you this is all natural, there are no forced bends in the routing.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/MVC005Fvi-3.jpg
This routing will work perfectly and it tucks the cable right alongside the old frame rail, well away from the headers and exhaust heat.

[Steve Chryssos]

You can tidy that up further with a Z-bar. It will improve the action as well. Picture splitting that cable into two parts and using a pivot point to reverse the direction of motion. It's a short cable leading to the bottom of the Z-bar. Above that is the pivot point and above that is the lower cable attaching point leading back to the trans. Use ball studs and with a bearing in the middle for best results. Perhaps I have the top and bottom positions backwards, but you get the idea. It's a quick, compact direction change with positive action and almost no slack.