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View Full Version : Project Goldilocks '66 Chevy C10 Resto-Mod/Mild Pro-Touring Build



theastronaut
06-18-2012, 12:33 PM
Hey, my name is John. I'm new here an fairly new to the Pro-Touring world. I went to the Goodguys Charlotte show last fall and was fascinated by watching the cars run the autocross track so Ive been hooked on the pro-touring style since then. I bought this truck last July as an unfinished project to just throw back together, but it's safe to say that those plans changed big time after the Goodguys show.

The truck is a Saddle Poly/off-white 1966 Chevy C10 with a big window cab, short/fleetside bed, and has both Custom Group option packages so it has polished aluminum side trim and grill, chrome bumpers, and Deluxe interior trim. It was bought new locally and kept in great condition by all of the previous owners. It has one repaint from years ago that I'll be keeping and touching up; I want a decent driver and not a show truck that has to be constantly detailed. It'll get driven and beat on, and used as a truck so new paint would just get torn up anyways. I'll be deviating from the standard definition of pro-touring in the appearance area as I really love the original styling of these trucks, and want to retain as much of that as possible. Any of the modifications will detailed to appear stock.

The frame and suspension was already fully rebuilt, blasted/powdercoated with new dropped spindles, lowering springs, later model power steering, disc brakes added, and it came with a new GM 350 crate engine. All that would have been fine until the go-fast bug bit, so I'm in the process of selling it all off and planning what to go back with for suspension, drivetrain, and brakes. I'm not looking to compete with the truck or go crazy with modifying the suspension; it's just going to be a driver that I want to handle well and get away from the "old work truck" driving feel.

As far as frame/suspension work goes, I've started bracing the frame to reduce torsional twisting, added an axle notch in the rear, mounted air bags, and flipped the trailing arm crossmember over to raise the T/A mounts. I've had the front upper bag mounts mocked up but haven't decided if I'm modifying the original control arms or buying tubular arms. I'll be building a full length adjustable rear track bar to replace the stock half length bar, and it's mounting points will be adjustable as well to change the roll center. I'd like to figure out some adjustable sway bars to add front and rear as well when I get to that point in the suspension work. The shocks will be relocated to be more effective with the amount of drop available from the bags and C notch. I'm also planning on using No Limit Engineering's bolt in rack and pinion kit instead of the original style steering box arangement.

The drivetrain will be a high-revving aluminum block LSx build with either a 3.9 or 4.0" bore and a 4.8 crank which works out to either 312 or 329 CI. I will be building an individual runner intake that uses four Weber or Dellorto two barrel carbs. Ignition will be MSD's LS1/LS6 controller. Valvetrain will be converted to solid roller lifters and shaft mounted adjustable rockers. I have a T56 from a LS1 Camaro already, and will be using around a 4.56 R&P and ~29" tall tires. The blocks, heads, and intake will be painted in the original 1966 327 truck engine color, the coils will be relocated inside the firewall, and I'll fabricate either 327 style or "Chevrolet" script valve covers with a LSx mounting flange.

The intake will be something like this, but probably with Dellorto DRLA's instead of the Weber IDA's pictured.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/wide351c-1.jpg


I've also done some work to the interior parts like shortening the steering column three inches, sectioning the stock steering wheel down to 15" diameter from 16 3/8", and restoring a factory air pressure/tachometer gauge cluster from a C60/80 truck with air brakes. The air pressure gauge will be used for my air ride tank. I'll have the stock bench seat foam reworked with denser foam bolsters to hold me in place better, but retain the original cover materials and pattern. I'm having the speedometer reworked to go to 140 mph, and the tach will go to 10K but have the original fonts/colors/style to keep with the OE+ theme. I'm looking for someone that does engraving to take a stock four speed shift knob and engrave a T56 six speed pattern into it.


Here's a pic to give a rough idea of the style I'm going for with the truck; stock looks but updated underneath. I'd like to run 18x8 and 18x10 steelies with the original caps, but may also go with a set of 19/20" forged three peice wheels from Rotiform. I hope you guys don't mind me wanting to keep as much of the original styling of the truck as possible, since thats more resto-mod than pro-touring. I think you'll appreciate the handling modifications underneath, and I'm looking forward to getting input from you guy's on the build plan so far!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/cdf42432-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif



Rear bags mounted and C notches installed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/0ded3b49-1.jpg


Here's a shot that shows how much the frame flexes with one rear bag pumped up- note the front crossmember is still level. The crossmembers are only riveted in place and they loosen up over time. I'll be welding the crossmembers in place, and also adding X braces to stiffen up the frame.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/3167c529-1.jpg



Pics of the first X brace. There will be a matching X brace underneth this one that attaches to the lower flange of the frame rail, and they'll be tied to gether with triangulated braces inbetween the two. I'll also build a second set of X braces to go in front of the trailing arm crossmember that will surround the transmission and extend as far forward as possible.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/64d0e0d4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/ed948c47-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/6877ebe0-1.jpg

theastronaut
06-18-2012, 12:52 PM
I'll post some progress pics to catch the thread up to where I am now.

I shortened the original steering column three inches to put the wheel in a more comfortable position and give more room in the cab.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/ff5e5e82-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/2f69569a-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/07540f55-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/31dfbe54-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/07c08f7a-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/9810bc43-1.jpg

theastronaut
06-18-2012, 12:54 PM
The stock steering wheels are huge at 16 3/8", so I cut the rim apart and sectioned it down to 15" diameter. I retained the original recessed/dimpled area by masking it off while epoxying the sectioned areas.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/ea8f2d9b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/8bb96d3c-1.jpg


Spokes shortened and temporarily superglued in place to mock up the rim peices.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/c9e53210-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/aaa6ba2e-1.jpg


Plastic ground back and inner frame tacked together for mockup.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/8d7be0b0-1.jpg


Sectioned areas filled with PC-7 epoxy, same as Eastwood sells for steering wheel restorations.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/c516c308-1.jpg


Compared to an original wheel and checking the fit of the horn ring.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/716f1ff6-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/2eabddd3-1.jpg


Sanding the epoxy to match the original shape, and shot with Bulldog adhesion promoter and Slick Sand high build primer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/e21ef561-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/0e499187-1.jpg


I wanted to add a stripe at the top of the wheel like race/drift/rally cars have as a reference to center, but wanted it to look like something that could have been original. I grabbed an early Nova wheel and took two of the stainless rings from the rim to add to my wheel. I used string and a square to find the top center of the rim, and cut grooves to hold the rings just like the Nova wheel has. I'll paint between the rings the same color as the dash panel; '66 trucks had a darker brown paint than the Fawn color that '64-'66 trucks had. The rest of the wheel will be Fawn like it came stock.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/fa079654-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/f074efee-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/4608ff24-1.jpg

theastronaut
06-18-2012, 01:06 PM
I bought and restored a factory tach/air gauge cluster to add to the truck, but when I decided to go with an LSx engine the 5K tach and 100 mph speedo weren't going to be adequate. I found a guy that can take a modern tach and make it look like an original tach, but have it go to 10K instead. He can also make 140 mph graphics for the speedo lens.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/7a33dd7c-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/4dff3989-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/1e1dbaac-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/48e2f767-1.jpg


Here's a photoshop I did to give my gauge guy an idea of what I was wanting the 10K tach to look like.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/10ktach-1.jpg


The clusters came with red-lens "OVER SPEED" and "TAND'M LOCK" warning lights that I remade when I first restored the gauges. I'll have the "OVER SPEED" light come on with the rev limiter, and I'll change the "TAND'M LOCK" lens to a yellow/orange "SHIFT" lens with a higher wattage bulb so it's actally visible.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/04ca1421-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/0cdd197d-1.jpg

drylegmcrae
06-18-2012, 01:32 PM
very nice work ! i love these old trucks and love what you're doing with this one.

65_LS1_T56
06-18-2012, 01:40 PM
Wow, nice fab skills. Love a low truck that handles too :cheers:

theastronaut
06-18-2012, 02:37 PM
very nice work ! i love these old trucks and love what you're doing with this one.


Wow, nice fab skills. Love a low truck that handles too :cheers:

Thanks dudes!


Here's more old pics to catch yall up on the progress. This was the day I brought it home. My dad's mechanic had started restoring the truck but bought another '66 that he also wanted to restore. When dad told him that I was looking for a truck, he said he'd sell it so he'd have more room and cash to work on his other truck. He had the frame ready for the engine/trans but hadn't touched the body yet.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/264138_10150694664910468_2117717_n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/263776_10150694677760468_7432425_n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/268243_10150694676230468_2163112_n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/267973_10150694675985468_2539339_n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/264643_10150700773220468_3827033_n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/282436_10150702186150468_7811710_n-1.jpg


It had both of the original '66 license plates tucked under the seat.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/270449_10150694523980468_4087579_n-1.jpg


New hard maple for the bed floor.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/282361_10150702187915468_4652763_n-1.jpg


The original bench seat.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/285429_10150714095980468_1705288_n-1.jpg


Pretty much all of the rust in the whole truck are in these two spots. This is a RARE find for our area. I looked at around a dozen trucks before buying this one, and nearly all of them were eat up with rust.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/268498_10150700770475468_296847_n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/269535_10150700771095468_5640247_n-1.jpg


The original anodized grill is in perfect shape, and I got two new chrome bumpers in the deal too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/268966_10150694788625468_3822244_n-1.jpg

theastronaut
06-18-2012, 03:00 PM
Here's some of the rear suspension work so far. I'm runinng Air Lift D2600 bags bolted straight to the frame and trailing arms. The cups that came with the kit were too tall and woudn't let the bags run within their design height at the ride heighth I'm wanting. With the trailing arms I can easily tune the bag pressure (spring rate) vs ride height with drop blocks if I need to go lower, or bag cups if I need to raise it up.


Removed the old bumpstop and marked the area that needed to be cut out for the notch.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/319663_10150847915565468_694122805_n-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/318527_10150847916340468_1851192309_n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/294711_10150847918260468_747119346_n-1.jpg


I also smoothed the welds on the notches before painting them to match the frame. I'll go back and repaint everything at the same time once I get the X braces welded in. That way the sheen matches on all the parts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/307516_10150861151795468_1080705309_n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/301315_10150861151115468_7404864_n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/314871_10150861151480468_2058767776_n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/316944_10150863071155468_1183485408_n-1.jpg


Marking the rear upper bag mounts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/308754_10150863070830468_1306124727_n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/301381_10150863070425468_1612235501_n-1.jpg


The notches came with very small bump stops and they're too short- the axle will hit the bed floor like it is. I'll add taller adjustable ones to make sure the center section of the axle doesn't come crashing through the bed floor when it's aired out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/315779_10150847917940468_1053175178_n-1.jpg


Between the above pic and this one, you can see that I flipped the trailing arm crossmember to raise the T/A mounts, which raises the instant center so it'll hook better. I'm also planning on boxing this section of frame rail and the T/A crossmember, then welding in 4" tubing for side exit exhaust with full ground clearance. I don't have room to run the exhaust to the rear due to the frame bracing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/383649_10151080376500468_1420781016_n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/397073_10151080375115468_270111926_n-1.jpg


Front bags and plates installed on the bottom of the crossmember.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/391935_10150973567395468_1572600707_n-1.jpg

CHRIZ28
06-18-2012, 05:06 PM
Awesome build! Can't wait to see more.

Chris

theastronaut
06-18-2012, 07:09 PM
Awesome build! Can't wait to see more.

Chris

Thanks Chris! There's alot more in the original thread I started about a year ago on 67-72chevytrucks. The full details are there, the link to that is in my signature. You'll see the change from the original plan of a lowered stock truck with a warmed up inline 250 inline 6 to what it's evolved into now. I actually had bought a 1966 250 and a LT1 T56 and had it mocked up in the frame when I changed my mind to go with LSx power.

srh3trinity
06-18-2012, 09:00 PM
Love the concept. I want one of these one day, they have gobs of style. I like the idea of a destroked lsx too.

SickSpeedMonte
06-19-2012, 07:05 AM
Very cool idea and meticulous attention to detail!

nicke
06-19-2012, 07:33 AM
Damn! Very cool. Great fab work, and I love the wheel modification!
Looking forward to seeing the rest of this!

72D100
06-19-2012, 01:54 PM
i love trucks, looking forward to see more

theastronaut
06-20-2012, 10:25 AM
Love the concept. I want one of these one day, they have gobs of style. I like the idea of a destroked lsx too.

Thanks, I'm thinking that the IR intake will make up for the loss of low end torque from destroking it, while moving the HP peak up to broaden the powerband. I'm hoping for a hp peak around 72-7500 and I'll set the rev limiter around 8K depending on where the power falls off at.



Very cool idea and meticulous attention to detail!

Thanks, glad you guys like the plans so far!



Damn! Very cool. Great fab work, and I love the wheel modification!
Looking forward to seeing the rest of this!

Thanks alot, the wheel was a ton of work! I've restored a wheel before but never cut one up to reshape it, and it was a chore!



i love trucks, looking forward to see more

Thanks, I can't wait myself to get more done on it.



More old progress pics to get yall caught up. I've pulled the old bed floor out and started sanding/priming/painting the new maple that's going back in. I'm painting it low gloss black like the factory did- not staining/clearing like 99% of guys do.

Here's a black oak floor I did in a '65 C10 I restored. The maple for my '66 won't have the grain that this oak does, which I don't really like but it's what I've got and it will be used to haul stuff, so no need for it to be 100% perfect.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/65ChevyC10Photoshoot055-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/9fed1899-1.jpg


Taking the old wood, metal strips, and floor support channels out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/300488_10150840298015468_1777261216_n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/299370_10150840303280468_578800441_n-1.jpg


New maple laid out to check the measurements and mark the outer boards for cutting.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/304101_10150803023655468_586250981_n-1.jpg


Guide coated and sanding with a longboard.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/319244_10150803217890468_1070093580_n-1.jpg


Primed and sanded enough to take some primer off the high spots. Hopefully the paint will soak in and raise the grain like it did with the oak in the '65. Otherwise it'll look like smooth black plastic planks.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/305221_10150805142275468_511838350_n-1.jpg


Mocked up and marked for trimming around the fenderwells.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/300013_10150867669260468_557222248_n-1.jpg


Backside primed and painted to seal the wood up all around. This will keep it from rotting.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/308715_10150885455175468_1125528858_n-1.jpg

theastronaut
06-20-2012, 01:09 PM
The inspiration for the destroked engine build with an IR intake came from my background with hi-po aircooled VWs, which use IR intakes with Webers/Dellortos quite commonly. My daily driver is a '64 VW bug with a 1679cc (or 102 CI) engine that has two Dellorto DRLA 2 barrel carbs so I already have a good bit of experience with them. They have a rediculous amount of throttle response, make more power all over the powerband, and I picked up 12 hwy mpg over the stock carb so they're good on gas too. I've got it tuned to lean cruise at 16-16.5 AFR with centrifugal advance only (could go to 17:1 if I had vac advance) and 12.5-12.75 at WOT. They venturis are interchangable to tune the carb's CFM based on the needs of the engine. I've put about 50k miles on the VW after installing the Dellortos, and wouldn't EVER go with anything else for a N/A engine! I haven't found much info on using these carbs on a street V8, the closest I've found are ITB/IR intakes on EFI V8's. I'm sure the benefits over using a IR intake vs plenum will be the same weather you use carbs or EFI/throttle bodies.

61064


I ran across this video when I was looking for info on V8's with IR intakes. It's a BMW M3 with a 4.0 V8, and makes about 400hp at the wheels. I know these have variable cam timing which helps with driveability, but it's still extremely impressive for any NA engine to make 100 hp/liter at the wheels and still drive smoothly like this one does. This is what I'm going for with the destroked LS build; a high rpm HP peak, and the IR intake to boost low end torque to still be driveable. The broad powerband should be a big help on an autocross track. The sound this this makes it unreal!! Stock the M3's make 420 hp and redline at 8300 rpm.

9GAbgqz4yGs

Chad-1stGen
06-20-2012, 02:09 PM
Cool project! My first ride was a 64 C10. I always wondered why they didn't get more love. I personally think the styling is fantastic.

CHRIZ28
06-21-2012, 05:20 AM
I knew I had seen a project goldilocks before! Lol I'm over on the truck forum too. I like your plan with the seat. Mine still has the original vinyl cover, and you'd slide all over the place in a fast turn. Good to see someone building a pt'd 60-66!

Chris

AutoX_a_Truck?
06-21-2012, 06:29 AM
Cool project and it sounds like that engine combo is going to be sweet!

85coupe50
06-26-2012, 07:55 AM
Subd. Looks like it will be a nice project.

CruizinKev
06-26-2012, 08:23 AM
NICE project! already love it! can't wait to see more! :twothumbs

theastronaut
07-02-2012, 04:37 PM
Cool project! My first ride was a 64 C10. I always wondered why they didn't get more love. I personally think the styling is fantastic.


I knew I had seen a project goldilocks before! Lol I'm over on the truck forum too. I like your plan with the seat. Mine still has the original vinyl cover, and you'd slide all over the place in a fast turn. Good to see someone building a pt'd 60-66!

Chris


Cool project and it sounds like that engine combo is going to be sweet!


Subd. Looks like it will be a nice project.


NICE project! already love it! can't wait to see more! :twothumbs


Thanks dudes!! I was worried you guys wouldn't like me wanting to keep that much original stying since that's not not what most PT builds are going for. If you've seen George Poteet's '57 Black Widow tribute, that's the style I'm shooting for. I had run across some shots of my dream wheels awhile back- 18x8 and 18x10 billet "steelies", but didn't know what they were going on. My Street Rodder mag came this week with the '57 on the cover, so now I know what the wheels ended up on! If I run "steelies", this will be how they'll look.

Here's a slideshow of the build pics.

http://woodyshotrodz.com/George%20Poteet/#

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

theastronaut
07-19-2012, 08:44 AM
I worked on the speedo graphics last night so the guy that's redoing the tach and speedo faces could have something to go by. It's basicly the same lens as an original 160 KMH speedo except calibrated for MPH.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/9b3a1bfb-1.jpg

COPO-RAT
07-19-2012, 07:15 PM
A personal friend of mine that works at Clay Cook Ent (www.ccookenterprises.com) cut those wheel centers for Woodys and Eric Vaughn (www.ericvaugnmachine.com) welded them in the hoops. They (C. Cook) have been talking about cutting some 5 lug versions of that wheel. Let me know if you would like to get in touch with them (him).
Very cool truck by the way!

theastronaut
07-20-2012, 09:08 AM
Thanks Copo-Rat! Those are definitely my favorite of all the original-style-but-bigger wheels I've ever seen. Every detail was copied, even down to the rivet heads on the backside! I'm not sure what wheels I'll go with yet; I'm leaning towards a set of three piece forged wheels for less weight. I imagine that those stock style 18's are fairly heavy.

They are extremely nice wheels though!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/attachmentphpattachmentid886686stc1d1331-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/attachmentphpattachmentid886688stc1d1331-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/attachmentphpattachmentid886689stc1d1331-1.jpg

theastronaut
11-11-2012, 02:53 PM
Quick update. I picked up a 5.3 for mock up duties so as soon as I get a bellhousing I'll be able make my engine/trans mounts. I also need to get the oil pan I'll be using to make sure it fits. I want to notch the crossmember 1-2 inches to let the engine drop as low as possible for a lower CG, but I've got to leave room for the steering rack. Also, the frame rails are going to be in the way of the headers if dropped too low. Once the motor/trans are mounted I can finish the frame bracing around the trans and check for driveshaft clearance on the back set of braces.


The 5.3 was dirt cheap but I had to drive to the middle of nowhere (literally!) to pick it up. All the roads were dirt other than the main highway and the little town had a gas station and a grocery store, and that was about it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/01A9080A372A4C3187CC1B476A10E05517800000-1.jpg


Keeping with the original/factory styling theme, I picked up an original forged shift lever from a 4 speed truck to graft onto the T56 shifter. I'll have an original shifter ball engraved with the T56 shift pattern.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/242531_10152066071180468_1480916194_o-1.jpg


I also picked up a 283 Chevrolet script cover. I'll make a steel flange to match the LS heads and graft the Chevy script area onto a fabricated steel valve cover. I'll hide the coil packs behind the dash to help it look more like an original engine. The whole motor will be painted/detailed/decal'd like an original truck 327.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/424298_10152023934010468_1832203836_n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/294575_10152066080305468_174056155_n-1.jpg


I stripped, primed, and wetsanded steering column parts after test fitting the parts. I painted the column in low gloss black as the factory did.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/FCABA54A918A4E8F94A79C36E170A65671000000-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/DBD086150C0B491A998F707F5BBC207071000000-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/5B6C2A5606C1414FB34273504890652A18700000-1.jpg


I forgot to show where I started the rear frame bracing on my last updates, so here it is. It's 1x2 14g rectangle tube. It's slightly bent to clear the bed floor braces.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/384549_10151094656215468_2133539557_n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/396850_10151094662560468_1637813412_n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/384728_10151094660255468_798533159_n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/386630_10151092530485468_680973511_n-1.jpg

theastronaut
02-15-2013, 05:16 PM
Been awhile since I last posted. Bought a new Tremec bellhousing, engine mount kit, an F-Body oil pan/pickup, and Energy Suspension urethane body mount kit mock up the engine in the frame to check for clearance issues. I have the cab back on the frame and the 5.3/T56 stuck in temporarily just to get an initial idea of how it fits. I'll be able to save the stock floor by notching the front crossmember and dropping the engine/trans lower- better for the center of gravity too.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/CF8A01D8AB784FAFA2FA3191715B8FA317089000-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/27CBF960F6A44481B55A648C34EA7B1714000000-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/80A287B7D5354421A76FEBC07A37BED151760000-1.jpg


There's plenty of room for the Webers in the factory firewall notch.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/7E1921034C034388A5D74565CD5E285951760000-1.jpg



My gauge guy finished the factory looking 10K tach so I rebuilt and detailed a cluster for it. He's working on a 160 mph lens to finish it. The air gauge will be for the air bag tank and is from a C60/C80 with air brakes.

Here's a link to the full rebuild details.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?p=5806390


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/699AD44C19004980A7F814859C602DFB33070000-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/6A6EC4E64CAE4A27B510069352F0CA6866310000-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/4FEBE946329D4FB888EF9F0C9AE69EB011920000-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/82BBBD59B6EA4F50A0A7F631C3823A7230110000-1.jpg

theastronaut
02-15-2013, 05:21 PM
I also started building a pair of 283/truck 327 style valve covers to fit the LS heads. I cut sbc flange off, then cut reliefs so I could reshape the ends into the rounded LS shape. They'll be shortened about an inch from the height they are now. I'll have a local shop CNC a pair of flanges and drill/tap the LS head for the perimeter bolt pattern. The coil packs will be hidden under the dash and wires will come out from behind the engine.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/3425E44AEA9C481BBFE9FD281A35834372020000-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/EDEADC94CFF0474AA1D56D131AC4E60E72020000-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/2374AC1F63FB4CC3B6AAE7AB948126BB72020000-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/CF6D48B69E6F4DE39269A4E06E2F8EB112120000-1.jpg


They'll be painted the same color green as original '66 truck 327's were and use factory decals. The destroked LS2 will be 329 CI, close enough.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/5F5EB15450CF40F0A3F88522A231876B72020000-1.jpg

theastronaut
02-15-2013, 06:34 PM
Next on the list is to level the frame, swap to the F-Body oil pan, finalize the engine placement, then start the crossmember raise. I'm going to notch the frame rails and move the crossmember up somewhere around 1.75" for better ground clearance at the lower control arm cross shafts, and also to get the lower A-arms closer to level at ride height. That will also make sure I don't have any scrub line issues if a tire or air bag blows out. I'll need the crossmember in the final position so I can make the engine mounts.

MalibuKasey from 67-72chevytrucks.com and I have been planning out building our own tubular A-arms that fix the lack of (much needed!) castor and camber adjustment that stock arms, and also move the wheel forward 1" to center the wheel in the fenderwell while we're at it. I'm also going to look into taller C20 upper ball joints that will increase camber gain through the suspension travel, and possibly drop the upper A-arm cross bar mount for even more camber gain if its needed. I haven't found anyone that sells lower cross shafts with bushings and outer steel sleeves that I can weld my tubes to though. I'll have a machine shop make them if I can't find any.

I'll build a jig out of tubing to lock in the relocated balljoint location and angles, something like these.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

srh3trinity
02-15-2013, 07:40 PM
I like the idea behind making the engine look stock. There is a thread here somewhere with an LS motor dressed up like an old Buick Nailhead.

theastronaut
02-15-2013, 08:18 PM
I like the idea behind making the engine look stock. There is a thread here somewhere with an LS motor dressed up like an old Buick Nailhead.

I plan on keeping it a long time and this way it won't have outdated aftermarket parts all over it in 20 years. I found a LS pic thread that had a few engines that were pretty well disguised as older/stock looking engines. The Holley C10 shop truck has a very neat looking LS engine too.

4WardInv
04-19-2013, 11:08 AM
Any updates on the truck?

theastronaut
04-19-2013, 12:04 PM
Any updates on the truck?

I haven't worked on the truck itself- we have three big restoration projects going on at work so I'm tied up with those. At night I'm helping a local guy restore his '41 Willys gasser that he built in the early '60s, trying to get it done before he's inducted into the East Coast Drag Times Hall of Fame. I did find a few hard to find parts for it like original outside mirror arms, NOS sail panel trim, and a nice pair of vintage Cibie Z-Beam H4 headlights.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/5864AF92D6AF41C5957DF2A5DEFC01D934100000-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/4E3E76786E0C4DBCA548F92ADBE586FC34100000-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/36AD30E8428D4C7882F48FAEC0332BFE98000000-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Random/36AD30E8-428D-4C78-82F4-8FAEC0332BFE-980-0000010542E4A28B.jpg.html)



Another thing I wanted to do was see exactly how much weight will be lost by swapping to tubular A-arms, rack and pinion, and lighter spindles/brakes. I weighed each of the stock components so I would have a baseline. I'm going to section the stock crossmember either 1.75 or 2" for more ground clearance at the lower A-arms, so that will drop some weight as well. I also took measurements from the original A-arms so I'll have a baseline for the new arms.




Spindle/Rotor assembly- 55 pounds each / 110 pounds pair.




Caliper.- 10 pounds, 3.7 oz each / 20 pounds 7.70 oz pair.




Brake pads- 3 pounds, 10 oz set.




Stock coil springs- 11 pounds, 2.3 oz each / 22 pounds, 3.6 oz pair.




Upper A Arm- 9 pounds, 10.1 oz each / 19 pounds, 4.2 oz pair.




Lower A Arm- 25 pounds, 7.2 oz each / 50 pounds, 14.4 pounds pair.




Outer tie rod ends + adjuster sleeves- 2 pounds, 6.1 oz each / 4 pounds 12.2 oz pair.




Steering box, cross link, inner tie rods, pitman arm, idler arm, adapter bracket- 48 pounds.




Total weight- 279 pounds, 4.1 oz.

The sway bar was an additional 14 pounds, 11.5 oz.

4WardInv
04-26-2013, 12:13 PM
Sounds like there's a lot of weight to save there, good to know since I'm planning a similar build!

theastronaut
04-26-2013, 02:40 PM
Sounds like there's a lot of weight to save there, good to know since I'm planning a similar build!

Yeah it was all very heavy. I'm hoping to lose around 300 pounds off the front wheels by swapping the suspension and steering, using an aluminum LS2 block, and setting the engine/trans as far back as possible. Will be moving the battery to the back as well. No A/C, just heat.

theastronaut
04-26-2013, 06:12 PM
Picked up a HF pipe/tubing bender tonight and tried it out with some scrap 1 5/16" OD 3/16" wall tube. Bent it like butter! This will work great for fabbing the A-arms. I'll dig out my measurements from the stock arms and make a couple jigs for the upper/lower arms. I'll be moving the spindle stub forward 1" to center the wheel in the fender opening, and tipping the top of the spindle back for more castor. I'll incorporate a bag mount plate a little lower than needed so I can add 1/4" or 1/8" aluminum plates to adjust the bag height/spring rate while keeping the same ride height.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/401213_10152763380850468_560605379_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/401213_10152763380850468_560605379_n.jpg.html)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/936702_10152763376095468_1734374031_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/936702_10152763376095468_1734374031_n.jpg.html)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/397891_10152763380570468_7335677_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/397891_10152763380570468_7335677_n.jpg.html)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/15228_10152763375945468_901184727_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/15228_10152763375945468_901184727_n.jpg.html)

alocker
04-27-2013, 03:45 AM
Wow. Impressive fab/welding/finishing skills.

Glad to see you went with the factory gauge cluster. A zillion Autometers look cool but you loose a certain feel when you remove the factory stuff.

theastronaut
04-27-2013, 05:28 AM
Thanks alocker! I want something that doesn't look dated in 10-15 years and keeping the factory-look parts should accomplish that. I restored a '65 C10 to 95% factory correct standards and loved all of the original styling so I didn't want blatant aftermarket parts thrown all over my own truck.

Few shots of the '65.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/65ChevyC10Photoshoot072-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/65ChevyC10Photoshoot0061-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/65ChevyC10Photoshoot009-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/65ChevyC10Photoshoot013-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/65ChevyC10Photoshoot039-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/65ChevyC10Photoshoot055-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/65ChevyC10Photoshoot034-1.jpg

the dan
04-27-2013, 07:23 AM
you are really talented with fit and finish on the metal work!, all your radius' on your weld grinds are perfect and your valve covers had no distortion. looks great!!. if you need a steel flange for them i have access at my work to a Mitsu cnc Laser, i would just need a dxf file of the valve cover gasket or something and cut it out.
Project is amazing! great work my friend

srh3trinity
04-27-2013, 09:03 AM
That blue truck is cool. I like the interior color against the blue.

theastronaut
09-18-2013, 01:33 PM
Thanks for the compliments on the blue truck, and the work on Goldilocks!

My rack & pinion kit from No Limit came in yesterday, can't wait to get it bolted on. Also found the intake I'll be using, Inglese started making sand cast IR intakes for LS3 heads recently. This saves me the trouble of fabricating an intake, the only other option was a $1600 buck billet intake.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/F8E3DACC6CBB41A8A91222F1CCF884A826190000-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/4A25B166050141DABBDB42E1929C729C61000000-1.jpg

theastronaut
09-24-2013, 03:50 PM
Clamped the r&p bracket to the crossmember to check for clearance issues with the dropped engine. Did this Friday around 5 so that explains why it's missing the insulator donut, and therefore the crooked rack... :hand: I'll need a smaller balancer since I'll be notching the frame 1.5" to raise the crossmember. I've found a 6.2" SFI balancer that'll leave enough room, and will work to slow down the accessories since the engine will rev to 8K+. I pulled the engine, trans, and crossmember this week so I can start the frame notch.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/0A7BC468405044619844ABAD90CEB9F287000000-1.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Random/0A7BC468-4050-4461-9844-ABAD90CEB9F2-870-000000F33E7B8B1C_zpsda80c713.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/1927E5C380634372AFF8C0411178A3C087000000-1.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Random/1927E5C3-8063-4372-AFF8-C0411178A3C0-870-000000F344677F43_zpsb2d3e8e1.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/79F806B4211E4113BF7CFECEE91027F487000000-1.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Random/79F806B4-211E-4113-BF7C-FECEE91027F4-870-000000F34AA484F4_zps97b11dbd.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/3439D292795540C7A07524DE1FF99A5287000000-1.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Random/3439D292-7955-40C7-A075-24DE1FF99A52-870-000000F3508DEC8E_zps25343f88.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/8EFE6F5DDD0543CB84F3C8677D90BE7587000000-1.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Random/8EFE6F5D-DD05-43CB-84F3-C8677D90BE75-870-000000F355F66AEA_zps077f3220.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/B3562DF54AA147FC9B3871D5C55ECFF787000000-1.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Random/B3562DF5-4AA1-47FC-9B38-71D5C55ECFF7-870-000000F35B704F90_zps41fa8c41.jpg.html)




Also found a vid of a LS3 with ITB's. They don't have it tuned yet so it won't idle but the throttle response and sound is incredible!!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-9cT0bDsaM

theastronaut
10-19-2013, 04:31 PM
I pulled the engine/trans, and took the cab off so I could start the notch for the front cross member. I'm moving the crossmember mounting area up 1.5" to get the A-arms closer to level, and it'll help with ground clearance at the LCA shafts.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/1390582_10153339714615468_784547070_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1390582_10153339714615468_784547070_n.jpg.html)

Cut lines laid out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/155730_10153339721440468_930352509_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/155730_10153339721440468_930352509_n.jpg.html)



Section removed. I cut the whole side out so I can add flat plate back in to smooth the rails. I'd have to redrill the mounting points anyways.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/1378894_10153339721620468_1448432878_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1378894_10153339721620468_1448432878_n.jpg.html)


Relocated 1.5" higher (frame is upside down).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/1392967_10153339721880468_1099657667_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1392967_10153339721880468_1099657667_n.jpg.html)


Ends boxed in with 1/4" plate.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/1391588_10153339722195468_2034598044_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1391588_10153339722195468_2034598044_n.jpg.html)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/1185542_10153339722290468_664761654_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1185542_10153339722290468_664761654_n.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/1383276_10153342919230468_529028483_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1383276_10153342919230468_529028483_n.jpg.html)



Bottom of crossmember is even with the bottom of the frame rails now. No more scraping the LCA shafts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/578476F2EE754FCC9A7FD88E2282F37325030000-1.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/VW/578476F2-EE75-4FCC-9A7F-D88E2282F373-2503-00000283701C7D1E_zpsb1cc0f1f.jpg.html)

alocker
10-20-2013, 03:29 AM
Any way you could quickly explain the steps in dressing welds like you have done above. I'm curious as to what tool/abrasive steps are taken to get them to look like that.

Zanie
10-20-2013, 07:09 AM
Great attention to details!! I'm a big VW fan, too!
I'm new to these early C10s .... I'm helping my buddy with a 66 C-10 build.
Did you move the crossmember forward or just up 1.5?

theastronaut
10-20-2013, 09:59 AM
Any way you could quickly explain the steps in dressing welds like you have done above. I'm curious as to what tool/abrasive steps are taken to get them to look like that.

I use a 36 grit disc on a Matco 1HP 3" 90* grinder to smooth out the outside corners. I get the edges of the welds flat/flush first, then round the edge over evenly. For the inside corner I have a cheap HF 3" extended straight grinder with a oval shape carbide burr. Then finish up 60 grit on a jitterbug sander (not pictured) that has a tall foam backing pad, and wrap the paper around the edges so it'll reach into the inside corner.


This is an old pic before I bought the Matco. The 3" DA is for Mirka Abralon 2000 and 4000 grit pads if I'm polishing metal.

83942

83943




I lightened/smoothed the crank for my stroker VW engine so I have a little bit of experience grinding. :screwy:


Before/after.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/699795-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/767408-1.jpg

83944





Great attention to details!! I'm a big VW fan, too!
I'm new to these early C10s .... I'm helping my buddy with a 66 C-10 build.
Did you move the crossmember forward or just up 1.5?

Thanks! The VW is my daily driver, its a '64 sunroof with OG paint and a 90hp 1679cc. The local ricers hate it! :razz: The pro-touring style hasn't left the bug alone either; I'm starting to do some suspension mods to it too. It'll pull right at .80g now with mismatched tires, air shocks on the back, and only a front sway bar. I'm adding wider wheels (5.5's and 7's), a rear sway bar, better shocks, and adjustable rear spring plates soon so I can autocross it too. Was hoping to have it together for Goodguys Charlotte but the wheels aren't finished yet.

On the truck, I only moved it up 1.5", I'll move the wheels forward 1" by relocating the ball joints when I make the A-arms. Have to relocate the ball joints for added caster anyways.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/B74F2A09DE9845EE9A9586E5AFF9D72D51400000-1.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/VW/B74F2A09-DE98-45EE-9A95-86E5AFF9D72D-514-000000BCEDD409D5_zpsb3794ac6.jpg.html)

theastronaut
10-30-2013, 05:35 PM
Stopped by the Inglese booth at Goodguys this past weekend and ordered the intake, was hoping that by waiting I could get a show discount. $70 bucks off and free shipping. :twothumbs Also ordered a pair of front CTS-V/Brembo 6 piston calipers. Both should be here by Friday.

Last night I bought a boom for my granddad's old 8N, and tonight I finished building a cab mount so I can move the cab by myself.

Next up is notching the crossmember to clear the oil pan, then reassembling the cab on the frame to check for carb clearance with the new manifold. I'm not worried too much about the carbs but I've got an idea for an air cleaner that might need more room than what's available.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/75527_10153388326725468_2056707339_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/75527_10153388326725468_2056707339_n.jpg.html)

theastronaut
11-01-2013, 04:02 PM
The manifold and calipers came today. Moved the frame into it's permanent spot for the winter, so I'll level it and move on to building the A-arms. Still haven't found a source for bare 73-87 LCA shafts at a reasonable price so I'm going to LKQ tomorrow to dig around.

The calipers are huge. I've seen them on a CTS-V before but their size can't be fully appreciated until they're off the car. Over a foot long!


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/1391568_10153396588525468_1245454850_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1391568_10153396588525468_1245454850_n.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/203EBF687CF54EE789666B3302C63B9617900000-1.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Random/203EBF68-7CF5-4EE7-8966-6B3302C63B96-179-000000054D04832B_zps7b056eb9.jpg.html)


The intake, has a plenum built into the bottom to even out vacuum pulses to the distributor, or MAP sensor in this case.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/994651_10153396144395468_535591168_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/994651_10153396144395468_535591168_n.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/BF63F07AE869421CAE2472A4947276C817900000-1.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Random/BF63F07A-E869-421C-AE24-72A4947276C8-179-0000000555955518_zps8bdcee36.jpg.html)


Moved the cab using the boom lift, needs a couple kinks worked out (center pivot and stops to keep the cab from sliding off) but it works.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/BE64623ED6914ED1894A96AFC1D1BE2117900000-1.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Random/BE64623E-D691-4ED1-894A-96AFC1D1BE21-179-0000000560428975_zps9c63f739.jpg.html)


And a teaser shot.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/E20F4C3EAE9B4C6F879116B02F63587917900000-1.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Random/E20F4C3E-AE9B-4C6F-8791-16B02F635879-179-0000000543309E8C_zps6132b583.jpg.html)

theastronaut
11-07-2013, 06:17 PM
Cab is back on the frame and engine is dropped in. Will pick up some plate steel to notch the crossmember this week.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/214C0A32BB37403F8ED8DD390163355E25900000-1.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Random/214C0A32-BB37-403F-8ED8-DD390163355E-259-0000001FE13E5843_zpsc312c10c.jpg.html)

theastronaut
11-07-2013, 06:18 PM
Cut the crossmember tonight, and with my amazing blueprint drafting skills I drew up plans for the filler piece. Drawn to exact scale, of course... :rotfl: I'll have a fab shop bend a single piece of 3/16" steel instead of welding separate pieces together. Hopefully they can read my handwriting and get it done this week.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/1395136_10153415141640468_1035845278_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1395136_10153415141640468_1035845278_n.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/E3CF2078B52847D7BE0F59074E503B3718390000-1.jpg (http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Random/E3CF2078-B528-47D7-BE0F-59074E503B37-1839-00000210CE806884_zps35f99ff5.jpg.html)

theastronaut
11-07-2013, 06:19 PM
Picked up the filler plate from the fab shop today and welded it in tonight.


Fitting it in the notch, had to slightly open up the opening in a few places to get it to drop in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/1457652_10153424617890468_1463761546_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1457652_10153424617890468_1463761546_n.jpg.html)


Cut lines scribed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/1005856_10153424618090468_1823752342_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1005856_10153424618090468_1823752342_n.jpg.html)


Roughly trimmed to shape, edges still need work.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/1394310_10153424618210468_729958395_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1394310_10153424618210468_729958395_n.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/1453284_10153424618415468_54778270_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1453284_10153424618415468_54778270_n.jpg.html)


After smoothing out the edges and matching their shape to the crossmember's shape.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/1456050_10153424618515468_79552226_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1456050_10153424618515468_79552226_n.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/1450204_10153424618680468_1897629337_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1450204_10153424618680468_1897629337_n.jpg.html)


Then I removed the plate, beveled the edges for better penetration, welded it in, and started smoothing the welds. Still have to do the back half, ran out of time tonight. I've got a get together at church tomorrow night so it'll have to wait til Saturday.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/1385416_10153424619045468_1893087338_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1385416_10153424619045468_1893087338_n.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/1391657_10153424619175468_921279802_n-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1391657_10153424619175468_921279802_n.jpg.html)

srh3trinity
11-07-2013, 06:36 PM
That VW crank is a piece of art. I like the truck too, one day, I want one of each of the C10's. I am thinking a shop truck style mid 60's, a nice 68-72 with a GMC grill and for the square body, I may go with a 4x4 K5 Blazer. I should get to those in the next 50 years at the rate I am going.

theastronaut
02-20-2014, 02:22 PM
More parts collecting. Waiting on rotors, other than that I've got everything for the front suspension. Also got sidetracked by another '66 we bought. Working on cleaning it up and making it driveable.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/FA43748A602841AF88EDE664CBB21F7B40850000-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/6CE80DFA52CA4240AE645F62ED8FF8C640850000-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/07AD7DC63036495AB5F2DC38B09AA27C44480000-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/691161B63F364142BA3FC7FF44FF9196-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/64398566B51242DF9A72B2E409FF161C13100000-1.jpg




Back to the parts pile. Once I get the rotors in I can mock up the spindles/hubs/rotors and make caliper brackets.

New 73-87 LCA shafts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/1005375_10153445801560468_1791234115_n-1.jpg


CPP modular spindles.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/99B3CDABF8BA4F15B6C435C0D3D41E09-1.jpg


NOS inside door handles.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/D534B08F673D46159993C4BD81E73CAE-1.jpg


CPP forged hubs.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/EB16DAF78B7A4999BD52766AD47182F4-1.jpg


Mapped out the lower A-arms. Will be moving the wheel forward one inch, and inward one inch, tilting the spindle an extra four degrees for more caster, and setting the bag mount at the right height for the ride height I'm shooting for. I'll actually drop the bag mount a little lower, then use aluminum shims to fine tune the bag height, kinda like threaded spring cups.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/1779205_10153767032835468_153310396_n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/1551488_10153767032980468_912017466_n-1.jpg

theastronaut
03-11-2014, 05:40 PM
Rotors came in today, bought StopTech cryo treated/slotted. I weighed everything except the pads and caliper brackets (don't have those yet) to compare to the old disc conversion stuff. Wasn't expecting the bigger brakes to be lighter, but they'll shave about five pounds off each side. Not much overall, but it's all unsprung weight so it makes a bigger difference.



12" Disc Conversion Parts:


Spindle/Rotor Assembly- 55 pounds



Caliper.- 10 pounds, 3.7 oz



65 Pounds, 3.7 oz each side.



New parts:


Rotor 28 pounds, 4.0 oz



Caliper 8 pounds 14.9 oz



Hub 5 pounds, 2.0 oz



Spindle 18 pounds, 0.9 oz


60 pounds, 5.8 oz


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/03/C67E759668444565ACA56F08AF7250D0-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/C67E7596-6844-4565-ACA5-6F08AF7250D0.jpg.html)

the dan
03-12-2014, 08:51 PM
looking good! i like the ITB set up for the LS with the old style valvecovers

acegto
03-15-2014, 08:22 AM
This project is nasty! love it

Tig
03-16-2014, 08:04 AM
Awesome build.
ITBs on an LS sound amazing

theastronaut
03-16-2014, 04:52 PM
looking good! i like the ITB set up for the LS with the old style valvecovers



This project is nasty! love it


Awesome build.
ITBs on an LS sound amazing


Thanks dudes!!

Here's a vid of a cammed LS3 with ITB's... sounds wicked!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddXi_T80PhE

CHRIZ28
04-09-2014, 06:44 AM
I agree that crank is a piece of art!! Would look awesome on an end table in the office. I've been following your build over on the truck forum. Awesome work!

Chris

theastronaut
04-13-2014, 08:35 AM
I agree that crank is a piece of art!! Would look awesome on an end table in the office. I've been following your build over on the truck forum. Awesome work!

Chris

Thanks Chris!! Crank is at the machine shop for balancing now, told him he better not scratch it lol!


Not much to report on the truck, I did get the rotors machined to fit the CPP hubs. Caliper brackets will be the next thing to do.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/FD2C43AB2E9244CBBF46C9ED6360E101-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Random/FD2C43AB-2E92-44CB-BF46-C9ED6360E101.jpg.html)

Ketzer
04-14-2014, 07:37 AM
Incredible job you're doing on the truck!

Amazing how many VW guys there are on here!
My oval and my old panel with an Ecotec from a few years back...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/56323178-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/56323181-1.jpg


Jeff-

theastronaut
06-04-2014, 08:23 AM
Got to work on 'Locks Saturday. Got the rack and pinion bolted in and set the frame rails on 4x4" tubing. I want that to be the normal ride height, maybe slightly more if it scrapes too much. The lowest point on my '64 VW is 2.75 and it rarely bottoms out so I think 4" will be plenty.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/10346646_10154173458520468_8551627437842-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/10346646_10154173458520468_8551627437842085499_n.j pg.html)


Mocked up the lower bag mount height with another 4x4" block, which leave the bag at 4.75". That's compressed too much so I'll move the top bag mount up a couple inches.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/10425880_10154173458680468_6286135276694-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/10425880_10154173458680468_6286135276694191527_n.j pg.html)


Also built a stand to work on the caliper brackets. It looks like one of the bolt holes in the spindle will line up already, and I'll only have to make a bracket for the bottom holes.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/10402605_10154173458340468_9085770963080-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/10402605_10154173458340468_9085770963080435192_n.j pg.html)


I had to plug a leak in my sister's TBSS tire so while it was off I checked to see how well 20's with a decent size sidewall would fit... way too tall. I don't want rubber band sidewalls so it looks like I'll be doing 18's.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/1536435_10154173837135468_65142831201403-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1536435_10154173837135468_6514283120140367768_n.jp g.html)


And speaking of wheels, I ran across this picture of CCW classics in the perfect color- brushed translucent bronze. They're three pieced forged so they're light and they're relatively inexpensive compared to most other three piece forged wheels.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/10310644_10154173837040468_1620382286849-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/10310644_10154173837040468_1620382286849894461_n.j pg.html)

theastronaut
06-04-2014, 08:28 AM
Incredible job you're doing on the truck!

Amazing how many VW guys there are on here!
My oval and my old panel with an Ecotec from a few years back...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/56323178-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/56323181-1.jpg


Jeff-

Thanks Jeff, I remember seeing your bus at the show in Taccoa GA years ago, I think it was in grey primer back then. Probably 8-10 years ago. Love your VW's! I just changed wheels/tires on my '64, stock smoothies up front and widened smoothies on the back. Also built a set of widened 356 replicas for autocross.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/1199492-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/1199491-1.jpg

Ketzer
06-04-2014, 10:00 AM
Those CCWs in that color would look kicka$$!

I remember the Taccoa show! Had a blast bringing the panel down and showing it off to the die-hards.


Jeff-

theastronaut
06-04-2014, 01:08 PM
Those CCWs in that color would look kicka$$!

I remember the Taccoa show! Had a blast bringing the panel down and showing it off to the die-hards.


Jeff-

That's the plan for the wheels, just like those. Step lip, brushed face with a translucent bronze tint clear. Maybe around 5-10% flattener in the clear to knock down the shine a little. Think they'd compliment the paint color perfectly.

The Toccoa show was my favorite; was going to it before I even got my drivers license! The fairgrounds were hard to deal with though so Lee couldn't keep doing the show there.

theastronaut
06-06-2014, 02:06 PM
Chopped the crossmember today to raise the bag mount area. I need to get some plate and 10" pipe to box the area in. At this point I've realized I would have been better off to buy a No Limit WideRide crossmember...


2" cut out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/10299029_10154194961860468_9060516449846-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/10299029_10154194961860468_9060516449846003060_n.j pg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/1551650_10154194961735468_21611648895096-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1551650_10154194961735468_2161164889509644068_n.jp g.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/10446720_10154194962050468_7569135595969-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/10446720_10154194962050468_7569135595969999318_n.j pg.html)



7" tall now. That'll shrink a little once I plate the mounting pad but it's a major improvement!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/10306742_10154194962160468_6403076738741-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/10306742_10154194962160468_6403076738741158511_n.j pg.html)

Tincup
06-06-2014, 04:39 PM
Great job...

theastronaut
06-20-2014, 05:15 PM
Got an update on the speedo lens today!! Won't be long til the cluster is finished.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/image-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image.jpg.html)

Ketzer
06-22-2014, 08:41 AM
At this point I've realized I would have been better off to buy a No Limit WideRide crossmember...




Very familiar! I often don't see the easy until I'm waist deep in the impossible. If only I could figure everything out the first go-around, my wagon would have been done years ago....


Jeff-

theastronaut
11-04-2014, 04:42 PM
Made a little bit of progress, mostly just buying parts. Been picking up NOS parts when I can find them and the price isn't unreasonable. So far found a pair of '66 Fawn armrests, interior mirror mount, and an anodized grill. Another find was a pair of NOS offset stud mirror heads. They're not GM but are identical. I also bought a pair of NOS chrome bumper guards that had a fair amount of shelf wear but I couldn't bring myself to use them for what I have in mind...

So instead I bought a pair of used guards to cut up. Wanting to shorten them a few inches to take some of their bulk away, always thought that they just looked to tall to fit the proportions of these trucks.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/7319F1D1D3A340E4BC4658D141BABE74-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/F663C271A6CB44A39B1E70CC8DF644AC-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/833FB5C294A3431098788E895CCD508B-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/BA61339DFFFB41AE88B6828C49A21A61png-1.jpeg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/ED253670F8734CA48E85D6293FBE2BFFpng-1.jpeg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/FB57F2117E664EE890D66E1C996DA511-1.jpg

theastronaut
11-04-2014, 04:47 PM
I also bought a set of Porterbuilt 1" forward and 1" narrowed A-arms and QA1 .500" taller upper ball joints. I mocked up the suspension and measured the camber gain over one inch and came up with 1.61* per inch. Rob at No Limit posted that stock is .86* and their Wide-Ride suspension has 1.56* per inch.


I dropped off one of the spindles and calipers at a local machine shop to have caliper brackets built. I'll have a few extra sets made if anyone is interested in doing the CTS-V brake swap.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/B5B8E11D8F4D4C18A3336C1B2E8F7F7A_1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/00DA36FF8A8B41F0830E1A18D1156757-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/FE5C6C43660A4B38BC160ED0C84FD0A6-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/1002652_10154739124530468_41224106290383-1.jpg

Tig
11-04-2014, 05:32 PM
Awesome work, everything looks amazing.
Your attention to detail is stellar and that wheel chose is perfect.

theastronaut
11-04-2014, 05:48 PM
Awesome work, everything looks amazing.
Your attention to detail is stellar and that wheel chose is perfect.

Thanks!! I'm looking at another CCW wheel now, same spoke design but the lug nut/center cap area is recessed for more caliper clearance. I like the recessed look better too. I may have the lips anodized to match the factory anodized side trim and grill, and they'd be less upkeep than polished lips.

chevymike
11-05-2014, 10:22 AM
Man, great build and truck. Love the intake and carb setup. Totally going to be sweet!

theastronaut
11-30-2014, 02:25 PM
Man, great build and truck. Love the intake and carb setup. Totally going to be sweet!

Thanks Mike!!

theastronaut
11-30-2014, 02:27 PM
Update on the valve covers. A few months ago I went to look at a set of VW wheels I found on craigslist and the guy turned out to be a normal car guy that works at a local machine/fab shop. Not the usual crazy craigslist seller... :rolleyes: I mentioned the truck project and asked if they did CNC laser/plasma cutting and he said they could work in small projects. So I sent him a pattern of the valve cover flanges and he worked in two pair with a larger run of parts.


I'll have to do some minor reshaping on the end that I started on to get them lined up 100% but it's pretty close already. I have another pair of valve covers in good shape that I'll probably use. I'm thinking about shortening them maybe 3/4" inch from the first one I modified- not sure about that yet. Also thinking about making another pair from 327 car valve covers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/38D498E75B314973813B13308FD68F33-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/38D498E7-5B31-4973-813B-13308FD68F33.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/1454785_10154837629830468_14285421328881-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/1454785_10154837629830468_1428542132888197961_n.jp g.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/178D99E25517463E97EDCF5DCEC6716E-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/178D99E2-5517-463E-97ED-CF5DCEC6716E.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/10418142_10154837631460468_5889549667083-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/10418142_10154837631460468_5889549667083535626_n.j pg.html)

68byrd
11-30-2014, 07:12 PM
Really cool idea for the valve covers. Very original. Love the truck

theastronaut
12-19-2014, 12:44 PM
Really cool idea for the valve covers. Very original. Love the truck

Thanks!!

theastronaut
12-19-2014, 12:46 PM
The 160 mph speedo lens and background decal are finished.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/447E8BCAA9724EB2A775FBD27B3672C2-1.jpg

protouring70
12-21-2014, 02:10 PM
The 160 mph speedo lens and background decal are finished.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/447E8BCAA9724EB2A775FBD27B3672C2-1.jpg

looks very clean...awesome build!!!!

BrianP
12-24-2014, 02:32 PM
Amazing project. What are the specs on the rotors? Are they custom or made for a particular car?

theastronaut
12-24-2014, 04:23 PM
looks very clean...awesome build!!!!


Amazing project. What are the specs on the rotors? Are they custom or made for a particular car?

Thanks guys. The rotors are 14.5", also from a '09-'12 CTS-V. These are StopTech cryo treated. Factory rotors are dual-cast so they're lighter, but are supposed to be replaced every pad change. These should last longer and cost is pretty much the same.

Bowtie racing
12-26-2014, 08:46 AM
Update on the valve covers. A few months ago I went to look at a set of VW wheels I found on craigslist and the guy turned out to be a normal car guy that works at a local machine/fab shop. Not the usual crazy craigslist seller... :rolleyes: I mentioned the truck project and asked if they did CNC laser/plasma cutting and he said they could work in small projects. So I sent him a pattern of the valve cover flanges and he worked in two pair with a larger run of parts...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/10418142_10154837631460468_5889549667083-1.jpg[/URL]

Awsome project and fresh ideas! How are you going to mount these on ls heads? Are you planning to make adpter plates or something else?

theastronaut
12-26-2014, 11:30 AM
Awsome project and fresh ideas! How are you going to mount these on ls heads? Are you planning to make adpter plates or something else?


I'll weld tabs inside the rocker box, then drill and tap them. No adapters that way.

Bowtie racing
12-26-2014, 12:51 PM
I'll weld tabs inside the rocker box, then drill and tap them. No adapters that way.

This gets even better. Thank you for the info.

theastronaut
12-26-2014, 01:17 PM
This gets even better. Thank you for the info.

No problem! Should be somewhat of a head-scratcher at shows with the hood popped.

Bowtie racing
01-05-2015, 10:35 AM
Anything new on this super cool build?

theastronaut
01-05-2015, 10:43 AM
Anything new on this super cool build?


Not much, I ordered a pair of 18x9.5" Z06 replicas to get the front rolling. Also picked up a couple wheel spacers so I can get an idea of the offset I'll need when I order wheels for it.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/C8F043CAB19C4D3FB0268982136C82F4-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/C8F043CA-B19C-4D3F-B026-8982136C82F4.jpg.html)

Justin@EntropyRad
01-19-2015, 09:21 AM
subscribed for sure!

Motown 454
01-20-2015, 08:16 PM
Beautiful project. That's a great idea on the Valve covers.

demonboy
02-11-2015, 05:40 PM
Love this build. I'm about to start on my 65 and I like to do a gauge cluster like yours will your friend do another that is if you don't mind coping you but with an 8000 rpm tach? Can't w to see more.:cool:

theastronaut
05-19-2015, 05:26 PM
I've had a lot going on lately so no big progress on the truck. The engines of both my daily drivers are currertly out and apart... it sucks driving the shop van all the time!! I should have one of them back together in a couple weeks; I'll get serious about getting the truck's rear end caught up to the front.

I have been doing research and buying a few parts. I think I've narrowed down my rear axle choice to a 9" with Mark Stielow's/Detroit Speed's "floating" axle ends which accept C6 Vette hubs. This allows the full C6 rear brake assembly to be used including the parking brake. No pad knock-back and less maintence than a traditional floater. I've also decided on a three link with a full length panhard rod for the rear suspension. Seems to be the best for a mix of handling and forward bite off the line.

Link to info on the Stielow/Detroid Speed axle ends:

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showpost.php4?p=602773&postcount=747


I found a NOS hood repair panel.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/FA4497365A564A85B21F665BA88C9693-1.jpg


And I finally found a pair of Cibie fog/driving light covers. These were reproduced a few years ago but I missed out on the ones shipped to the US. These showed up on the German eBay so I had to grab them. I kinda like Cibie lights, if you didn't already notice. :razz:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/265540ED32E2497392C5F1F90A8AAE71-1.jpg


I picked up a set of 335/30-18" BF Goodrich G-Force KDW tires to get the truck rolling. They're not as sticky as I'd like for autocross or track days but they'll be perfect for the street. I knew they would be wide, but I wasn't expecting them to nearly come to the top of the S10's bed sides! I don't think they'll quite fit up front without relocating the sway bar mounts. We'll see. The 9.5" Vette roller wheels definitely won't work with these!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/16A8994D7A744A43852B45FB16B0945E-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/38AC37CA9B424C10A846B16B148E706A-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/31422153DFF94A49A3BFFE27CA80D2F3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/C26E4B0EE3C34FA5824B5ABB69E3145B-1.jpg

Dr G
05-20-2015, 08:08 AM
I picked up a set of 335/30-18" BF Goodrich G-Force KDW tires to get the truck rolling. They're not as sticky as I'd like for autocross or track days but they'll be perfect for the street. I knew they would be wide, but I wasn't expecting them to nearly come to the top of the S10's bed sides! I don't think they'll quite fit up front without relocating the sway bar mounts. We'll see. The 9.5" Vette roller wheels definitely won't work with these!


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/C26E4B0EE3C34FA5824B5ABB69E3145B-1.jpg

Those are some impressive meats! Grip-central.

woodside783
05-21-2015, 08:38 AM
just wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !

Munssey
05-21-2015, 07:44 PM
just wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !

Agreed. That dude is going to be a monster.

Supra510
05-21-2015, 07:54 PM
Nice

Blacksheep66
04-05-2016, 12:24 PM
That is awesome. Cannot wait to see this one done.

Tincup
04-08-2016, 11:56 AM
That is some serious rubber......

theastronaut
04-16-2016, 09:00 PM
I totally forgot to update the build thread here. No recent progress but here's where it's at.


I got the front all together and rolling. I still need to box in the upper bag mounts and make caliper brackets. I picked up a pair of 12" wheels and they wouldn't quite clear so I'll drop back to 10.5" or 11" and run 315's instead of 335's. These are the 9.5" rims and 245 wide rollers, you can see that there is still a ton of room to go wider, especially once I notch the fender tops.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/48DAB3BA13DF41BD89A2F78918183A4E-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/48DAB3BA-13DF-41BD-89A2-F78918183A4E.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/2A452C3B107B4C0DAB94CF58DA17EB8F-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/2A452C3B-107B-4C0D-AB94-CF58DA17EB8F.jpg.html)


Reproduction floor mats are finally being made again, and they're made really nicely. Picked one up from Fred's Truck Parts as soon as they had them in stock. I had been watching for a NOS or NORS for the last three years but they were pretty much unobtainable. Glad someone stepped up and started making a high quality reproduction.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/AF9FAF48DC774BF38D269FFA2B77C25B-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/Facebook/My%2066%20Chevy%20C10/AF9FAF48-DC77-4BF3-8D26-9FFA2B77C25B.jpg.html)

theastronaut
04-16-2016, 09:33 PM
That catches up the truck progress to late last year. I haven't done anything with it this year since I'm saving up to build a garage/apartment. Ideally I'd like to build a double deep 3-4 car garage with a second floor apartment without going into debt so I've cut any spending on my car projects. I sold a few of my extra cars and bought a cheap car to daily so I could put more cash toward the garage/apartment project.

Of course the go-fast bug is still alive and kicking so I didn't get just any "cheap daily". Now, I'm a Chevy guy and I've caught some grief from my friends for buying a "Ford", but technically it's a rebadged Mazda so I can own it with a clean conscience.

For little more than the cost of a set of BFG Rival's for Goldilocks, I bought/built an '88 Ford Festiva that pulls a tad over 1g in near-freezing weather on 400 treadwear tires. The car is an absolute riot on an autocross course even though it only has 58 hp. It actually ran 2.4 seconds faster than my Miata on 300 treadwear tires at the same auto-X event; turned a 47.1 to the Miata's 49.5. It's not Pro-Touring, or cool like my old '64 VW, or the '87 Conquest TSi, or the '77 Celica Liftback I had but it gets me around while I'm saving up and I can still autocross it and have fun on the cheap.

I'll start back on Goldilocks once the garage/apartment build is done. I've considered selling it to help fund the garage build but I can't really bring myself to get rid of it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/CE434EF192B24898B4442868BBE42550-1.jpg (http://s557.photobucket.com/user/theastronaut/media/for%20sale/CE434EF1-92B2-4898-B444-2868BBE42550.jpg.html)

Hugger67RSSS
04-17-2016, 08:41 AM
I am going to run 11" wide front wheels and 315's on my 66, what are you going to do about a swaybar? I don't think the Ridetech bar is going to work. Just curious if you got that far. Thanks

theastronaut
04-17-2016, 08:59 AM
I am going to run 11" wide front wheels and 315's on my 66, what are you going to do about a swaybar? I don't think the Ridetech bar is going to work. Just curious if you got that far. Thanks

The sway bar tabs on the Porterbuilt arms wouldn't clear with the 12's I test fit, and they're close with the 9.5's are close at full lock. I was going to run a splined bar so I could shape my own ends to fit everything after relocating the sway mounts on the LCA. I might not even run away bars, or maybe use very light bars. I'd like to try to increase the roll resistance using different height and stiffness bump stops. Both the Miata and Festiva use progressive rate bump stops to control body roll.

RBEAST
05-23-2016, 10:02 PM
great build your doing , your attention to detail is spectacular i might add... I have a 94 C 1500 that i am running 335/35/19 on
19 x 12 Z06 wheels on all 4 corners with no rubbing. looking at how big those BFG's look on the front makes me smile! square
set-up is the only way to go for autocrossing! Hope you get your building done soon so we can see you out enjoying your truck soon
GREAT BUILD!

Rexarmy
12-17-2016, 06:08 PM
I also bought a set of Porterbuilt 1" forward and 1" narrowed A-arms and QA1 .500" taller upper ball joints. I mocked up the suspension and measured the camber gain over one inch and came up with 1.61* per inch. Rob at No Limit posted that stock is .86* and their Wide-Ride suspension has 1.56* per inch.


I dropped off one of the spindles and calipers at a local machine shop to have caliper brackets built. I'll have a few extra sets made if anyone is interested in doing the CTS-V brake swap.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/B5B8E11D8F4D4C18A3336C1B2E8F7F7A_1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/00DA36FF8A8B41F0830E1A18D1156757-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/FE5C6C43660A4B38BC160ED0C84FD0A6-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/1002652_10154739124530468_41224106290383-1.jpg

I would like some info about caliper brackets. I even already have the calipers

Jimbo1367
12-30-2016, 06:43 AM
WOW. Great build. Your vision AND fab skills are awesome!!! I caint wait to see this finished. so...... HURRY UP !


LOL

theastronaut
01-02-2017, 09:49 AM
I would like some info about caliper brackets. I even already have the calipers

The truck has been pushed over in the corner for over a year now, and I never got around to having a set of brackets made. I may end up swapping to Wilwood's new ProSpindles instead since they're a lot lighter.


WOW. Great build. Your vision AND fab skills are awesome!!! I caint wait to see this finished. so...... HURRY UP !


LOL

Thanks!! Expect to see some updates this year. I have one of my other bigger projects done and sold as of last week so this one is getting closer to the top of the "to-do" list.

RBEAST
01-04-2017, 12:24 AM
The truck has been pushed over in the corner for over a year now, and I never got around to having a set of brackets made. I may end up swapping to Wilwood's new ProSpindles instead since they're a lot lighter.



Thanks!! Expect to see some updates this year. I have one of my other bigger projects done and sold as of last week so this one is getting closer to the top of the "to-do" list.

Has it been that long WOW ... Looking forward to some updates soon.. for your brake caliper brackets try calling tobin at KORE3 ..i have number if you need it (541)924 5673 good luck

theastronaut
07-01-2019, 05:40 PM
Back from the dead... I cleaned out the corner of the shop the truck is parked in a few months ago to get ready to start back on it. I've got all week off so I wanted to get the front crossmember finished and make a plan for the rear suspension.

I pulled the engine and trans back in May to sell the T56- I decided to go with an AR5 5 speed from a Colorado instead. They're reportedly just as strong, don't take up as much tunnel space, the shifter location is better for a bench seat, and they're only around $300. Fabbot makes an adapter that uses a 4l60e bellhousing to bolt the AR5 up to a LSx. I can buy the adapter setup from Fabbot, an LS7 clutch kit, the trans, T/O bearing, and lines for around $1200 bucks. The T56 sold for $2k by itself so I'm money ahead now, and especially money ahead if I ever blow up the trans from beating on it. I'd much rather replace a $300 buck trans than a $2k trans!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/fnkTp2xh-1.jpg



Saturday I blocked the truck up at ride height (4.5" at bottom of the rails under the cab) and took measurements of the bag height, then I dissasembled everything to make patterns for the upper bag mounts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/R0vYwORh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/GCV0cYBh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/IGOrLL5h-1.jpg


I opened up the hole that's in the coil spring retainer for the air line and fittings to pass through, then welded in the plates.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/3x0uQnbh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/bcsxmv7h-1.jpg


Bag bolted in, its about 7.75" tall at ride height, a little over 2" taller than just bolting in bag mounts to the stock crossmember. This should let me run more pressure at the same ride height to increase the spring rate. If it's too stiff I can add spacers between the bag and LCA to drop the pressure/spring rate. I'll finish the other side tomorrow, then weld up any extra holes and prep it for paint.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/VVPLqdkh-1.jpg

theastronaut
07-01-2019, 05:44 PM
So a lot has happened in the 4-5 year break on Goldilocks. My plan was to build this thing for autocross and track events... that's probably not going to happen now. I posted about the Festiva earlier in the thread... it just doesn't make sense risking an accident on the track with the truck now that I have a car that is track capable and cheap/easy to repair/replace if it gets busted up on the track. I'll still autocross the C10, but probably won't do any big track events with it. I started a build thread for the Festiva and if you read it you'll be amazed at how ridiculously well it handles- 1.3+g on $500 buck tires. I know the C10 will never do that well so there's no point in trying to go slower than a Festiva on a road course in a truck that would be impossible to replace if something happened to it. I've learned a ton about chassis setup, track prepping a car, and what to look for to make a car handle well by building and thrashing on the Festiva. A lot of that info can be used to make the C10 handle better.


Build thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=727205




https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/A1qYt8xh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/o5FehB5h-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/BrEnNBlh-1.jpg



I did a frame-off resto on my '63 VW two years ago. I've had fun with it but want to focus on my '64 VW instead so it will probably be posted on Bring A Trailer soon.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/ydZR1jYh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/XFMogMqh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/ywoQsHth-1.jpg


I also was able to acquire my granddad's '64 C10. I'd like to have it back on the road this fall.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/kFZGy5Hh-1.jpg

Motoracer838
07-03-2019, 12:01 PM
Thanks for bringing this thread back, I hadn't seen it before, love the build. In the late 70's early 80's I had a '63 panel, I did something similar in the front, instead of notching the frame, I notched the crossmember, everyone that rode in the truck were amazed at how well it rode. after a couple of years, I set the body on a '77 Elcamino frame.

"Life is what happens while your making plans for the future" Joe

theastronaut
07-05-2019, 03:49 PM
Thanks for bringing this thread back, I hadn't seen it before, love the build. In the late 70's early 80's I had a '63 panel, I did something similar in the front, instead of notching the frame, I notched the crossmember, everyone that rode in the truck were amazed at how well it rode. after a couple of years, I set the body on a '77 Elcamino frame.

"Life is what happens while your making plans for the future" Joe

Thanks! I had another '66 that had a the stock crossmember with 2.5" spindles and 1.5 coils cut off the original springs. With relocated shocks and the bump stop brackets removed it rode and drove great but ran out of travel too soon at the height it was at. So this way I have room to mount the rack and pinion and get the bottom of the crossmember level with the bottom of the frame rails under the cab.

- - - Updated - - -

There were raw corners left from cutting back the spring cup area, so I rounded them and welded the two layers together, then smoothed up the edges.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/eK7Cmbdh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/5liHcigh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/ag7indzh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/XzgxkhCh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/5rvrFMch-1.jpg


Since the crossmember is moved up the top two mounting points were just above the frame rail. I slightly recessed and welded in 1/2" threaded bosses, made rounded covers to hide them, then welded them in and blended the welds.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/aJLpFX8h-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/HdhfOdIh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/OycU1Sph-1.jpg


Since this mostly finishes up the front (besides shock, sway bar, and engine mounts) I went ahead and shot a coat of semi gloss rattle can to get it all one color and keep the bare areas from rusting.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/l9QVKGDh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/MTlSsqlh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/sWL7tkph-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/iYfZWHnh-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/GHx2MoXh-1.jpg

theastronaut
07-06-2019, 07:32 PM
I started detailing and assembling the driver side, this was as far as I got. I'm really happy with the new installed height of the bag with the raised mounting points! It may be too tall as-is but that leaves room to add shims to adjust the installed height which should allow me to tune the pressure and effective spring rate without changing the ride height.

I may also swap to smaller bags since they'll have a steeper rate of spring rate rise as they compress compared to a larger bag. From setting up the Festiva I've learned that a soft initial rate works best to absorb bumps and maintain ride quality, but is mostly important for soaking up mid-corner bumps without upsetting the chassis and causing the car to skip around and lose your line. This was a huge difference I noticed between my softly sprung Festiva and my much stiffer Miata. I could go over curbing and bumps in the Festiva and it soaked it up like it wasn't there, and the same lines in the Miata would make it side-step and skip around... not very confidence inspiring.

A stiff sway bar to reduce body roll negatively reduces the independence and free movement of the suspension, so on the Festiva we use the small stock sway bar and add progressive rate bump stops that engage after ~1" of free travel. These aren't hard stops; they're soft enough to seamlessly engage and compress but stiff enough add to the overall spring rate the more they're compressed- that reduces body roll without the negative aspects of a stiff sway bar. I'll look into some way to incorporate progressive rate bump stops on the truck if the natural progressive rate of the bag isn't enough.

Pics of the Festiva's coilovers with the bump stops installed over the shock shaft. The rear spring rate is only 105# so it's very soft and compliant but after the first inch of travel/body roll it seamlessly firms up in corners while maintaining full L/R independence without a rear sway bar.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/wttRRoXh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/yxW2lHLh-1.jpg



I'll wait to reassemble the other side so I can take the spindle/brake assembly to have caliper brackets made. Neither of the first two shops I've taken them to ever got around to making them after waiting for months in each shop.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/Whg8gLDh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/FniZ0mNh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/wY5B8RAh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/ukFjwaAh-1.jpg

theastronaut
10-08-2020, 08:20 AM
No real progress made, but I did loosely assemble most of the sheetmetal. I can measure for wheel offset and axle width now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/10/q738rSuh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/10/PeICabSh-1.jpg

kmc3420
10-29-2020, 06:43 AM
Wow! Nice build. This is a true survivor, the sheet metal looks very nice. I am on 67-72 truck forum as well, it has slowed down over there it seems. This is gonna be a sweet ride.