Aluminum Toe Sleeves

[Twentyover]

Guys-

I’ve rebuilt the front suspension of my 70 Camaro and have encountered a problem on reassembly. I’ve rebuilt the front using NAPA center link, idler, and inner and outer tie rod ends. The replacement inner and outer tie rod ends appear to be approximately the same length as the original inner and outers.

I have a set of aluminum toe adjustment sleeves from a major manufacturer (sponsor here.) When I tried to install them, I found they locked (I assume I ran up against a change in threadform due to tap profile) when the center to center distance between the inner and outer tie rod ends was about ½” greater that the old parts I was replacing. I had waaaaayyy too much length between the centers of the inner and outer tie rod ends to achieve anything close to correct toe. The gap between ends on the inner and outer links I’m removing from the car is about 3/16” (viewed through the gap in the split sleeve), so I’m not surprised that I can’t achieve the same center to center length with the aluminum sleeve. I assume that any aluminum sleeve, from any manufacturer (and probably most steel sleeves) would encounter the same condition.

I have a couple options-


Reuse the OEM style sleeves
Get a bottoming tap to cut the sleeve threads a little further in

or


Whack a quarter inch or so of threaded length from both the inner and outer tie rod ends and use the sleeves. This would leave maybe ¾ “ of the sleeve ‘hollow’ with no section of tie rod end, so has a small risk of column buckling.


Is there another option? Is cutting down the length of the tie rod ends a crazy suicidal idea that will result in imminent danger to the public and my probable death? Or should I break out the SAWZALL O’ DEATH and have my way with the tie rod ends? While I do think the bottoming tap will increase the depth the tie rod ends will engage, I’m not confident that even when I’ve taken each side as deep as I can that I’ll be in the range of toe adjustment I need.

I’m waiting here, baited breath, with my trigger finger trembling over the switch on the SAWZALL…….

[Proforged]

The most common issue is that the thread tolerance on the tie rods is different from that of the sleeves. Once you thread them in a few turns, you run into interference issues.

Not sure what brand tie rod sleeves you're using - but a good bet is to buy your tie rod sleeves from a company that also sells tie rods. For example, we thread match our tie rods to our aluminum tie rod sleeves for a perfect fit.

I wouldn't recommend cutting your tie rods. I'd recommend reusing your original sleeves or returning your tie rods and picking up a different brand.

Hope this helps!

[chevelletiger]

I’m waiting here, baited breath, with my trigger finger trembling over the switch on the SAWZALL…….[/QUOTE]

Lmao! Fid someone with a cold saw and a lathe my friend! By the way those size taps left and right will cost as much as those sleeves if you dont have them already.phil

[David Pozzi]

I have run into second gen's that I had to cut the tie rod shorter because the inner and outer ends hit each other. This was with stock tie rod adjusters. So if you were going to replace the stock one with an aluminum one, there would be very little extra space in the middle. I don't see anything wrong with trimming the tie rods a little to make things work, but you do want maximum thread engagement. Aluminum threads don't grab very well and I've seen some tie rod end threads that were not very deep. On a stock tie rod sleeve, the sleeve is clamped down so it has very good contact. Not a bad thing to have. The main thing I have seen gone wrong with stock adjusters is the Alignment guy may not have tightened them well enough and they start rattling on the threads & eventually wear them out.
David

[Twentyover]

Thanks tiger & Dave.

Are these things hardened (why would they be?) so Ican't cut with a sawzall? Or is it that a chop saw is just faster (I'll need to remove, no big deal.)

[David Pozzi]

I would guess they are made if 4140 steel or something close to that. It should cut with a saws all but run at a low speed or you'll over-heat the blade.

[Proforged]

Most tie rod bodies are made from SAE1045.

[Twentyover]

Most tie rod bodies are made from SAE1045.

Mild steel with a bunch of carbon so you can harden the ball socket?

[a67]

I've had to tap tubular tie rod sleeves deeper many times.

Cutting the threaded ends of tie rod is easy, used a hacksaw last time. Went through like it was butter.

Bob

[Twentyover]

Chopsaw, ground a chamfer, ran the jamb nut back down over the threads.Took an hour per side, I ran Alumitap in the threads and bottomed the tie rod ends, solvent washed the chips and Alumitap out, assembled with Copaslip