Major Overhaul

[pharmd]

Guys need some advice here from folks more experienced than me. I have a 2002 Camaro SS M6 (white with black roof and black wheels). On our way to the Mid West Musclecar Classic, we happened upon 3 fellow racers and while having some fun on a backroad my engine detonated, developed a upper valvetrain noise, then deteriorated rapidly (we barely made it home). Needless to say I was really disappointed I was finally able to make an event, and I didn't even get to run.

SO I have some major decisions to undertake and I need some input. I will have to build a new motor. I have an LS1 (stock) block and LS2 (stock) block and FAST 102 intake/TB to start with. Im not sure what the LS1 needs, the LS2 was removed for spinning rod bearing #6. Should I rebuild the LS2 budget style with slight over bore, keep the stock crank, get forged rods/pistons, a good cylinder head and custom cam? This combo would probably land around 470-480rwhp (my old LS1 was 456/415rw on a conservative dyno). Or should I spend another 3-5K and build a stroker shortblock, good heads, cam etc. The end price would probably be a 5K difference I feel. Is an accusump pretty much a good insurance policy?

I need to upgrade brakes (stock ls1). I am considering Z06 conversion, I think this is a very cost effective and reasonable option to begin attending PT events with...Due to the cost of everything, what if I had to do fronts now then rears later? Will it cause me problems or should I just bite the bullet and upgrade both now?

Coilovers...I have Koni SA shocks on now with a german spring. At the very least I need to pick a different spring because the car is too low and drags the cutout on stuff). The rear suspension is NOT a coilover type setup, BUT they do make a conversion for this car. For those who have converted another generation Fbody from stock style to a 4 link or other coilover rear setup do you feel it was a major advantage. I have heard the argument that the cost of converting to a coilover doesn't justify the performance benefit on a SRA car. The cost difference here between just upgrading springs (+ sways) vs coilovers (sways), is probably $2500.

Rear end. stock 10 bolt with 3.42 gears now. If I plan to keep a NA powerplant making between 475-550rwhp/475-500rwtq, should I just jump staight to 9" or is a 12 bolt an option? From what I have seen for a FAB9 housing with aluminum center section, Detroit locker, etc etc I'm looking at close to $4k. The issue here is that it affects wheel choice (as I could get the new rear narrowed and allow me to run a wider rear wheel vs stock), and brake selection (10 bolt c clipped vs 9" not). And detriot locker vs wavetrac vs trutrac?

Other ancillary parts needed (from what research I have done) are: new seats, new steering wheel, new TURN ONE power steering pump, 6 point cage and harnesses, battery relocation kit, and I really need to ditch the single cutout and go with dual low profile cutouts $400 issue.

This car is NOT my daily driver, but I do want it to be something I could get in and go on the power tour with, or drive 1000 miles to an event if I wanted to. I am keeping AC and creature comforts. I want the car to be very capable on AutoX/Roadcourse/speed stop, that is the car's focus, being drivable to cruise-ins etc is also a requirement.

Please help a fella trying to make smart choices to start with. I don't want to just buy a bunch of parts. If the motor hadn't blown my plan was to do the brakes, suspension, seats and hit RTTH and the LSfest. Then try to make most events next year. My conscience can't really take buying all this stuff at once (since its just a hobby), but what parts I buy, I don't want to skimp on, only resulting in me having to buy replacements soon after. I don't have a budget per se, I could spend probably $25-35K and make it REALLY competitive, but it would be alot easier to swallow spending $10K this year, then in a year or so, spend another 5K, then a year later another 5K etc.

Thanks for your responses!

[pharmd]

Crickets? 73 views and no advice? Looking for folks willing to share their thoughts and experiences, so someone starting out doesn't waste time and money on just throwing parts at a car.

[srh3trinity]

You may want to ask around on ls1tech too. Are you ok with spending 30 k on a car that probably won't demand that price if you sell it? That is probably the first question to answer. Otherwise, there is nothing wrong with going little by little a after you do the motor. May be easier to sort out if you don't create a completely new car all at once.

[pharmd]

You may want to ask around on ls1tech too. Are you ok with spending 30 k on a car that probably won't demand that price if you sell it? That is probably the first question to answer. Otherwise, there is nothing wrong with going little by little a after you do the motor. May be easier to sort out if you don't create a completely new car all at once.

I plan on keeping the car....in 30 years it won't be worth 10K, it will have appreciated in value...Im in it for the long haul. Folks on Tech are mostly drag racers and teenagers, neither have a clue about Pro-Touring...While my platform is different (4th gen vs 1st or 2nd gen fbody), the concept is the same and alot of the parts are the same, so I was hoping that some seasoned Pro-tourers would think back to when they first got involved, what mistakes they made or pearls of knowledge they learned and be willing to share with a brother just starting out.

[srh3trinity]

Best advice I can give is plan up front and buy what you want the first time. If you are patient and that means it will take some time, then go system by system starting with the weakest link first.

[dug]

srh3trinity has some good advice. I don't have a pro-touring vehicle as I'm building a more drag/street oriented 70 chevelle but I don't think that really matters here. From the sound of it I think you have a lot of ideas and need to narrow your sights and get a goal in mind. You mentioned building a new motor (which seems to me to be the priority since that is what is keeping you from driving it) but are you looking for more power? The same power? a $3-5k price in motors is a large difference but without knowing what the end goal is it's hard to even have an opinion- I'm usually in favor of going with more power so I would say go with the stroker and new heads/cam etc.

Which ever motor you build I would say install it and drive the car and slowly build the rest of it. This might take some careful planning so you don't purchase parts twice i.e. getting the right A-arms and making sure they work with the spindle/steering etc that you eventually plan on getting. Hopefully this helps.

[pharmd]

Doug, thanks for your thoughts, to clarify, I have alot of ancillary parts to buy, brakes, a few suspension bits, Accusump, etc. Because of that and the need to do those things fairly quickly, Its somewhat limiting my motor options. I think that my previous motor (540hp/489tq flywheel) would probably plenty powerful for the time being, so Im considering doing a rebuild of the LS1, this time going with a higher end set of heads, adding ARP rod bolts again, ARP main studs, and forged pistons (stock crank, rods). This could be achieved for ~$3500, thus saving the balance of $8000 budget to add Z06 brakes, 3.73 gear, accusump/oil pan, turn 1 PS pump/pulley, and a new set of wheels/tires (I might run overbudget here but I think $10k is reasonable).

The car already has UMI RR K memeber, tubular and adjustable A arms with rotojoint, 3 way SFC, tubular LCA with rotojoint, and dual adj pan hard. I will probably add a decoupled torque arm, and aftermarket sways, and swap out my springs. This should create a pretty solid platform from which to start tweaking.

I will need to decide whether or not to do a cage right now. Harnesses are a must though, as is a steering wheel.

Hopefully that will provide you with a little more info from which to advise from.

Thanks.

[shmoov69]

No advice man, but what ended up being the problem? Sounded gnarly when you left!

[dug]

Doug, thanks for your thoughts, to clarify, I have alot of ancillary parts to buy, brakes, a few suspension bits, Accusump, etc. Because of that and the need to do those things fairly quickly, Its somewhat limiting my motor options. I think that my previous motor (540hp/489tq flywheel) would probably plenty powerful for the time being, so Im considering doing a rebuild of the LS1, this time going with a higher end set of heads, adding ARP rod bolts again, ARP main studs, and forged pistons (stock crank, rods). This could be achieved for ~$3500, thus saving the balance of $8000 budget to add Z06 brakes, 3.73 gear, accusump/oil pan, turn 1 PS pump/pulley, and a new set of wheels/tires (I might run overbudget here but I think $10k is reasonable).

The car already has UMI RR K memeber, tubular and adjustable A arms with rotojoint, 3 way SFC, tubular LCA with rotojoint, and dual adj pan hard. I will probably add a decoupled torque arm, and aftermarket sways, and swap out my springs. This should create a pretty solid platform from which to start tweaking.

I will need to decide whether or not to do a cage right now. Harnesses are a must though, as is a steering wheel.

Hopefully that will provide you with a little more info from which to advise from.

Thanks.


You sure you need some opinions???? It sounds like you've got it all squared away! But seriously it sounds like you're working with a great platform already. Looking back over your original post and what you have just mentioned I would suggest doing the items you mentioned with what you have left over after re-building the motor. Except I would say don't go for new wheels/tires as long as the brakes you want will fit with the wheels you already have. With the money you would have used for tires maybe you can do some of the smaller items like the battery relocation, seats, steering wheel etc. Its hard because some of the things you want to do effect so many other parts its almost like you have to purchase a few at the same time in order to keep driving it.

anyways, keep us updated on what you do. especially with the condition of your motor.

[pharmd]

No advice man, but what ended up being the problem? Sounded gnarly when you left!

Haven't torn it down yet, but oil pressure was a touch below 25 psi when I shut it down at home. It started smoking pretty bad about 1/2 way home. It died once...we didn't think we were gonna make it home.

I did "PUSH" it out of the garage, wash it, then "PUSH" it back into the garage...it was sad. BUT had to wash all the oil off the back of the car.

[shmoov69]

Oooohhhh.....not good. Let us know what you find!