1970 Mustang Grabber Special

[latoracing]

I rolled my project out of the storage lot in order to get started on re-building it. This car is semi "rust free" (ha-ha) since most of it isn't there! I have bought the sheet metal for the rear of the car, as a starting point. I am going to try Dynacorn products, as much as possible, to see if they fit any better than other ti-chen stampings. Out of the shipping boxes, the pannels look nice, just hope they don't require the all to common cut and beat to fit like some lower quality parts. I did pick up some Goodmark mini tubs for the fitment of some 335-30-18s. I could have used some stock size inners and made tubs, which might be alot cheeper, but it will be worth the information gained from installing them. I've got to finish taking this apart, and sorting what will be reused, which doesn't look like alot. The more I look at it, the more modifications I seem to come up with. I just don't want to get to carried away.
I still have not decided on a suspension system to use, but I do want to install a 3-link rear, and an LSA front. I think I have contacted half a dozzen diffrent vendors, and all of them have excellent products, desicisions... desicisions... There is plenty of metal work to be done, which will keep me busy for a while. I stuck the rear tires under the car as a joke to send to my friends. It is sitting on jack stands, and looks like it is in 4WD mode. Just needs to sit about 12.5" lower.





:firefire:

[austin552]

Welcome! Ahhh...Another Carolina Mustang. Remember the more rust the lighter the car. This project brings Agent 47 Haringer to mind. Keep us posted.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJonrBWkbtE

[latoracing]

I have forgotten all about up dating my progress on this forum. I have been working on it, as much as I can, and have made a little progress. I have it down to the unibody, and have been working on the right rear of the car. I have the mini tub installed along with the outter wheel house, trunk floor, rear trunk support, front trunk floor, and the trap door pannel. I have been collecting more parts, since I have not posted in a while. I picked up a stainless steel gas tank, which helps put the back of the car together, and a one piece floor. I am working on fitting the quarter and repairing the B pillar, which of course has some rot in it.
I was wondering about the Dynacorn pannels I am using when I started this thread, I LOVE them! I have installed alot of sheet metal in my time, and these are at the top of my list as far as repops go. They are worth every penny over the cost of the other Ti-Chen parts out there. If I were going to do this for some one else, I would highly recomend their product for fit, and finish. Plus, the parts would save the customer a lot of money with the time to install them (my two cents)
Here are a couple of pics...

[latoracing]

Very slow to update along with a slow build. I have most of the metal work just about done, up to the fire wall. I have installed convertible inner rockers along with my one piece floor, all the metal in the rear of the car is all but complete. I am working on the interior metal, like seat risers, E-brake handle I stole out of a wrecked '93 GT Mustang, and measuring for the cage install. Along with a bunch of bracing in the cowl area, and all the other beef-ups, I'm hoping to get this chassis just a little bit stronger.

Some fun things I have done over the past year...

Inner rocker install

89689

Just about everything Street or Track makes

89690

13" x 1.125" front rotors, 4 pot calipers, coil overs, tubular upper and lower front control arms Wats link, three link...

Floater 9" with disc brakes,

89691

In order for all that suspension to work, I had to get some new hoops to help connect it to the tires

89692

Formula 43, RAD 14's 18 x 9.5 front, 18 x 12 rear

[latoracing]

The mice had all kinds of fun with this car. The cowl had to be replaced, along with the lower A pillars, which were also junk. I added a piece of 1" x 1.5" x 0.120" tubing at the top of the firewall and installed some threaded inserts for my export brace to attach to.

89693

While I was at it, I also installed a bunch of 1" square 0.120" wall tube from the firewall tube, all the way up into the lower part of the A pillar. Along with several other tubes to connect to the rocker panels.

89696

I will be installing a cage in this as soon as I finish up my seat riser modifications, but I had to have something to attach to the risers.

89697

The dash in all of it's crunchiness were reinstalled to help locate where the dash bar will be placed. It will help to have the cowl off for this part, then I get to finish it up once all those tubes are in place. I will attempt to do a little better at posting as the rest of this chassis is put together.

[Protouringstang73]

Wow, nice progress so far.. Cant wait to see how this project will end up.. Love these 69-70 mustangs and 71-73.. I am restoring an 73 mustang right now, which also will get a touch of pro touring style..

Actually I was thinking about installing the 3 link like yours in my mustang to.. Do you have any ideas about how this will fit in a 73 mustang, if you know something about these years? I dont think the difference of a 70 mustang and 73 mustang can be much when we talk suspension.. :-)

[rwcstang]

glad ur on here! lookin good so far!

[latoracing]

glad ur on here! lookin good so far!

Good to see another familiar "face". Your car is coming along quite well. I might get there one day...

[Zachalanche]

Good to see another familiar "face". Your car is coming along quite well. I might get there one day...

Looking good. I espcially like what you have done with the inner rockers.

[705.0Merc]

Very nice!

[latoracing]

Got a little more done. I finally finished up the installation of my chopped up seat risers and center beef-up. I also installed some 5th seat belt attachment anchors while I was at it.

91305

I wanted to buy a hydraulic bender to build my cage with, but opted for a JD2 model 32 bender in manual mode for now. If I don't use it a bunch, it is not so bad, just takes a little longer to make bends. I started with the main hoop the other day. The material is 1.75" x .120" wall DOM tube, bent with a 5.5 CLR die.

91306

After a bunch of measuring, and a little trimming, the main hoop fits nice and tight.

91307

I all most tacked it in place before I remembered I needed to make some base plates. With the hoop located on top of the inner rockers, there isn't a bunch of room for huge plates, so I went vertical up the B pillar. This area will also be welded to the hoop, once it is all ready to fry in place. I need to weld these in, and get the hoop tacked in place, and bend the halo bar.

91308

More tube bending to come...

[Dave B]

Looks awesome!

[latoracing]

I have been a little busy with the cage parts after work the past week. I welded in the main hoop base plates and tacked in the hoop for now.

91916

Once that was done, I made a template for my halo bar and got it bent and notched. I used a ratchet strap along with an old boat motor support to get it in place for now. It came out fitting like I had envisioned, to where you can't see it from outside of the car, and will be easier to brace the roof structure to the cage (at a later point)

91917

I bent up the driver's side A pillar bar, with some interesting methods for bending tubing at home, and got it fit, notched and trimmed. Once again, I wanted a super tight fit to the car, which I was able to achieve.

91918


91919

[Mr Grant 666]

Love 69-70 mustangs. The extra effort in making the cage tight makes a big difference.

[latoracing]

Bent the passenger side bar, trimmed, notched and fitted it to the car. I wanted to see how it was going to look after the cowl was in place, so I stuck the lower part in to check for fit. So far, so good

91923

I thought about making the dash bar, but it is just a straight piece of tubing, notched on both ends, so I removed everything except for the main hoop. I want to install a X brace in the halo bar, so the cardboard template got another use. I laid out where I wanted the bars to land, and also attempted to continue with the tight fitting cage theme. I have a little over 3" from the bottom of the halo bar to the roof in the front areas, so I bent some tube at 15 degrees and trimmed / coped the tube to be 3" at the highest point. I have yet to finish the other end of the tube, but will be working on it this week.

91922

[Auto Rod Technologies]

Nice work!! I like the way the cage is coming out.. Nice tight fit.. Going to be hard to get the liner in and get the top side painted but it is still turning out really nice.

[latoracing]

Nice work!! I like the way the cage is coming out.. Nice tight fit.. Going to be hard to get the liner in and get the top side painted but it is still turning out really nice.

Gona do some creative headliner "panels" between the bars, but there will be no way a stock, or aftermarket headliner will be going in. The halo bar and main hoop are touching the roof structure in numerous places. Plus, I will be making sheet metal tie-ins from the car to the cage all most all the way around, or at least I think I am at this point. I talked to my painter yesterday, and he wants to spray the top of the cage when I "lay it down" to weld the top, cause it probably will not get paint on it after it is in the car otherwise. I just have to make sure all the welds are complete on those joints so I don't burn off new primer / paint. This poor thing is going on a rotisserie so all the above issues might be handled a little easier inverted. Can't wait to find out.

[Auto Rod Technologies]

Sounds like a good plan to me..

[Zachalanche]

Cage is looking good. I really like the way you added the harness mount in the center of the seat pan. I might have to borrow that idea.

[protasone]

Wow. Bending tube by hand. That brings back memories! Nice work!

[latoracing]

Wow. Bending tube by hand. That brings back memories! Nice work!



Thanx. Didn't know if I will use this bender very much at home, and didn't want to drop a ton of money into just a few bends. With a 5' bar on the bender, it really isn't that bad. I get to play with CNC benders at work, don't have $150K to get one of those, nor all the tooling that is needed to run them. I'll just have to play with my slow manual bender till something quicker is needed.

[latoracing]

Made a few more bars for my X bracing after work today. Double copings are interesting to say the least. I need to prep the car a little more and these parts will be ready to install in the near future. Still have a bunch of other bars and braces to make, but these parts have to be welded in first.

92228

[E.rodz]

nice job on the fab work so far and also the bending of the cage it looks so much better when it fits tight like that.keep up the great work! it is good to see more blue ovals on here as well.

[drflex]

bending tube like a pro

[latoracing]

Started tacking parts in place, along with some gussett tubes to help hold things together.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140401_192038_zpsn806ne8f.jpg.html)

[driveit]

Awesome job so far.

[latoracing]

A little more progress with the cage. I welded as much of the halo to main hoop attachment points as I could before I laid it forward to get to the top. As I was laying it down, I noticed the assembly would fit through the door, which was cool. I put it on the welding table and finished the areas, and tack welded the X in place. I checked to see if it would still fit...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140407_181945_zpsbnvghkxq.jpg.html)

which it did. So it came back out of the car, and back onto the welding table. Once everything was nice and cooked, I put a little epoxy primer on the top, cause there is no way to paint it once installed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140408_193432_zpsmdwxb1xi.jpg.html)

Made some front attachment plates out of .125" CRS and welded them to the inner rockers

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140408_193148_zpsnmgscvud.jpg.html)

Reinstalled the cage assembly for the last time, tacked the A pillar bars in place, ready for some more welding.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140408_200111_zpstvryeqok.jpg.html)

I like the way this part of the build is looking. My favorite view of the car is looking into the windshield area from the front. No halo bar visible from the outside of the car, and the A pillar bars look like they belong.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140408_200412_zpsehavv1aa.jpg.html)

More tubing fun to come....

[driveit]

Keep up the progress pics. I can't wait to see this car finished!

[DrFraZZy]

I love the progress! subscribing for my future cougar projects.

[rwcstang]

project is looking good! keep it up!

[Knoxferatu]

That cage is looking really nice! Subscribed.

[latoracing]

Thanx for all the nice comments everyone!

I made the knee bar after work today. I fitted it in several places to have the least repercussions from sticking a large tube where it wasn't designed to fit. I decided to place it a little lower than I had originally planned, so I could use my defrost vents and easy access to the speedometer cable. The drawback was the glove box liner will have to be notched in order to close.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140410_174049_zps9ap6ft0s.jpg.html)

I was afraid the heater box would be impossible to remove with that bar so close to it, so everything came out of the car. Everything came out with no trouble at all. Hopefully the next time it goes back in it will be clean, cause this thing was NASTY when I got it and these parts still are. The car looks empty again.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140410_180222_zpsd5tyizjs.jpg.html)

Looks like I've got to cut some holes for my main hoop to drop through to gain access to the areas on the A pillar bars that need to be welded. I could pull them in to miss the convertible inner rockers I installed, but might screw up something when it gets welded. Better safe than sorry.

[latoracing]

Broke out the 3" hole saw and cut up my new floor just in front of the rear wheel house. I dropped only one leg of the main hoop in at a time, it made is so easy to get to the places that needed welding.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140411_173326_zpsxk4emgsl.jpg.html)

Got the passenger side done, switched sides, and holes. Both sides took less than 2 minutes to weld, once set up that is. There was so much room by doing this, it made it a breeze to maneuver the torch around with out any issue.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140411_174835_zpsuqs0mhec.jpg.html)

I bet if I had not installed the strap on the main hoop, it would have touched the concrete. It looked funny sticking out from under the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140411_175332_zpswrgoqdqf.jpg.html)

Now to slide the cage back into position, weld up the holes, and get going on some rear bars...

[latoracing]

I have been hanging out at the Mustang's 50th Birthday Party down in Charlotte for the past couple of days and haven't made a whole lot of progress on my cage. While I was there, Shaun, from Street or Track came all the way down to set up a booth at the show. Since he was heading this way, I had him bring me some upgrades for my Floater housing...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140419_095902_zpsvg7rg2lw.jpg.html)

When I bought the original setup from him there were limited ways to affix a parking brake. I had thought of using a spot type mechanical caliper, which would have been kinda rigged. Guess there are a few other people out there wanting a paring brake so Shaun came up with this internal drum assembly and a special hat to mount the now 13" rear rotor and a way cool CNC caliper bracket. The only down side to this upgrade is I am going to have to do some surgery to my very nice housing. It will have to be re powder coated once all the welding and grinding is completed. That will have to wait for just a little while, so back in the box they go.

Hopefully get back on the rear bars soon...

[dangina]

the bending and welding looks great!

[Josh@Ridetech]

Very nice work! What do you have planned for the engine/trans?

[latoracing]

Very nice work! What do you have planned for the engine/trans?


I have hopes to build a 427ish 9.5 deck small block, running an 8-stack injection system. I have fitted a TKO-600 in the tunnel. Had to build a trans mount and some adjustable motor mounts to get the drive line angles just right. After the cage is fairly well completed, I get to move forward (building from the rear to the front) so the engine bay mods will start. I am also planning on making some 4 into 2 into 1 style headers (try-Y's), ought to be a challange!

[latoracing]

Got the main cage back in place and welded to the base plates. I moved to the rear once again, and have spent several afternoons working on the rear cage section. I started out with making some base plates for the rear down bars

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140423_191041_zpsmamc48lx.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140423_191423_zpsft6oi5ym.jpg.html)

I placed these plates right above the coil over mounts (not permanently installed as of yet) to be able to tie that into some cage points. These also are over the frame rail. While I was hanging out in the trunk, I finished stitch welding the inner wheel houses to the trunk floor since I was lazy and didn't get them way back when. I measured for the rear down bars, mitered, coped and fitted them in place. More measuring, marking and tacked them in place. I want to install an X brace in this area as well. This turned out to take a little while as there were 3 different coping angles, and a miter all thrown into one tube. It took a little while to get just right, but turned out fitting up quite well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140424_202804_zpsgdavst5u.jpg.html)

The bottom of that bar looked like some sort of medieval weapon. I like how the "node" behind the driver looks, bunch of tubes connecting in a neat package. There will be one of these on the other side, once I get it all coped and fitted. Starting to take shape...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140424_203201_zpsseboposj.jpg.html)

[latoracing]

The past month has been quite busy, to say the least. I have worked on everything except my own stuff. Now that I have some time slated for my build, I have jumped back into the cage building and have completed just a little more.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/18e990c1-d94c-4354-9946-fb8d9aca488f_zps23f1f243.jpg.html)

I have the X all nice and notched, fitted, and tacked in place. Ready to get into some uncomfortable positions getting to all of these areas that need welded, which I did.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/fa37b510-b90d-43d7-a315-58ee85a57690_zpsad6af3e7.jpg.html)

I have started on the main hoop diagonal brace, witch is actually tacked in place. I am fixing to make the harness bar parts and get all of these parts welded together, hopefully after work tomorrow...

[latoracing]

I did get a little done yesterday afternoon. I made the harness bars and got them fitting like they should. Gotta go weld them in place...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140605_190324_zpszraraqtv.jpg.html)

[latoracing]

A little more progress. I have the main hoop bars all welded in place. I am done with the cage for now. I want to install some door bars, but as I need access to the interior still, they can wait. Bad enough I have to work around that jungle gym in the back of the car, much less getting in and out of the door, for now...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140609_175943_zpsj4realju.jpg.html)

The past few after work days have seen some much needed sealing of the cowl area. I have POR-15'd, seam sealed and primed all kinds of areas in the hopes to ward off any rust issues for the future. I will be installing the lower cowl section sometime this week, hopefully. Just got to punch a few dozen holes and crank the welder up. It will be weird to see this thing with a cowl back in it for good, seems like forever since I removed it. Much easier to prime the bottom side of the cowl panel on saw horses, easier to see everything. It might start looking like a car again in the near future...

[68EFIvert]

Wow! Great job on that cage!

[latoracing]

The cowl area in this poor thing was toast when I got it. With all the part replacement and A pillar bracing that was done in this area, it made it much easier to get to. But it is time to get this all closed up and on to the front end. I went ahead and primed the firewall, knee bar and under side of the cowl

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140618_165634_zpsgtrdi7ns-1.jpg.html)

prepped it for installation,

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140618_174131_zpsaodpcuvt.jpg.html)

and fried it in place

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140627_195925_zpsealvstca.jpg.html)

After grinding down all the welds, test fitting the outer cowl covers, and more priming I shot some straight black urethane single stage paint on all the inside surfaces to help with preventing future rust

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140705_112619_zpslq28ocbx.jpg.html)

One medium coat to begin with, then a full wet coat to make sure I didn't miss anything. I was surprised I didn't have any marathons with all the funky angles. Came out nice and slick.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140705_113334_zpslb1xovfz.jpg.html)

More prepping and welding on the side cowl covers

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140715_191954_zpsh2l1kmzd.jpg.html)

Sealed up with some seam sealer on the inside, witch was not that much fun to do. Then it was time for the lid to go on

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140719_105912_zpsjdmxhopc.jpg.html)

Started welding in the middle, and worked outboard. I had to move around a bunch to keep my nice interior paint job sorta intact. It all welded up nice. Once the welding was done I covered up the holes and got to grinding. I was also able to remove the 1" x 2" tube brace across the windshield area. It is starting to look like a car again.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140719_160240_zpsrh6birzh.jpg.html)

Engine bay mods and such are next. Last section of rusty metal, YEA!!!

[latoracing]

Been slack on posting again. I have been busy with the front end as of lately. I wanted to do a "slight" mod to the front of this car when I saw some pictures on a forum I post on. It drops the nose of the car down, without moving the suspension, like the guys back in the T/A days did. It all starts with cutting a brand new radiator saddle in half, and removing an inch out of it

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140808_152837_zpsft2fav4f.jpg.html)

The sharpie marked areas was where I removed the inch instead of the "usual" area marked by the green tape. After some trimming, welding and grinding, looks like it came this way

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140809_153852_zpsohs04n4x.jpg.html)

In order for the fenders to meet this now lower radiator support, a wedge is removed from the upper fender attachment area. I marked this wedge way back when, a little time with a cutoff wheel...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140815_165123_zpshgwzk20y.jpg.html)

remove the wedge and weld it all back in place. I didn't have to do that cut on the forward aprons, cause I went ahead and made them from scratch. I am relocating the battery to the rear of the car so I wanted to make a battery-less apron for the passenger side. I took the old driver's side, made a few forms, and tools, some 20ga CRS and made a mirror image of the original.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140821_183427_zpstqetbyzt.jpg.html)

Wasn't too awful to pull off, just a few little tricks like the joggle tool to offset the apron under the radiator support

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140825_190502_zpsee6awmwp.jpg.html)

and a few others for a semi "stock" looking part.

[latoracing]

I added a few more details, bent some attachment flanges for the front, and trimmed the rear to fit. Once the apron was stuck back on the car, it looks sorta stock.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140828_185906_zpsm8givj9f.jpg.html)

Once I was happy with the way it fit, and my measurements were still semi close, I made the driver's side the same way, only like the original this time. Same procedures as the first, only all the tools and forms were made, it took a third of the time to build it. Trimmed, fitted and stuck it in it's soon to be home for a test fit

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140920_184729_zpsilovbeer.jpg.html)

Just a little bit of work to get this mod this far, but it is starting to look like a body again.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20140920_184816_zpseilza6gz.jpg.html)

I am currently making some reinforcement plates for the shock towers, with all the new parts back off. Much easier access to the towers without aprons. Once they are all taken care of, I need to bolt the sheet metal stuff back on the car to make the few adjustments to those parts, very minor compared to the structural mods.

:firefire:

[blade]

Really nice fab work! Looks like you are moving along at a decent pace.

[latoracing]

I have the shock tower reinforcements all welded in place, along with the aprons and core support. The beef ups were fun to do, probably just a little bit of overkill, still fun to do.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20141016_185932_zpsoftbwk84.jpg.html)

It was much easier to mess around in the engine bay with out the aprons in the way. It was time for all the "creative" metal shaping to become an assembly. It all came together with little effort, a bunch of punched holes, and a little grinding.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20141018_194306_zpsojjojrdp.jpg.html)

I installed some new strut rod braces as well. The driver's side had a rather large rip in the upper portion close to the frame rail. So the originals hit the scrap pile, and new parts were welded in place

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20141030_191856_zpsjaqxrasm.jpg.html)

I have been working on the exterior shock tower bracing lately. All the parts I installed in the cowl area are being tied into the towers to help stiffen up the area just a little more. I am using 1" square .120" wall tube to bridge the gap. The two top bars are going to be the main support, as the lower curved bar is not a "direct" load path, but there is a rather large wheel and tire that has to function in this area as well

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20141105_193231_zpsru9n68jj.jpg.html)

To ensure all these parts will work together, I mocked up the front suspension

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20141108_172008_zpst2qesdn4.jpg.html)

and installed the wheel and tire. Leaving the spring off of the coil over allowed me to cycle the suspension to check for any clearance issues. Thankfully, there were none with the braces. That is a different story with the fender.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20141108_173937_zpsuhdfburw.jpg.html)

When I ordered the wheels, I knew this would probably be an issue. Oh so close to fitting a 9.5" rim under an OEM front fender. I'm not worried, a little bit of sheet metal manipulation and all should be great. These cars are not known for having a bunch of room in the front for a fat front tire, so achieving a 275-35-18 this close is quite cool.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20141108_175006_zpsfpegytni.jpg.html)

I have removed all these parts and placed them back in their storage boxes, going to get all the braces welded in place, along with the never ending cleaning on the shock towers. There are a bunch of other parts I have to repair, like my passenger side door, so the fab work is not quite done, but getting closer.

[Restomod]

Super job! Maybe I missed it but did it actually start life as a Grabber?

[latoracing]

Super job! Maybe I missed it but did it actually start life as a Grabber?

Yup, real deal. Real rusty as well. Since I was modding it to death, figured I'd salvage a roof and a vin #, not alot left of the orgional metal, better than scrapping it!

[Restomod]

Sweet! Are you going back with the Grabber Green?

[Motown 454]

Beautiful job!

[langleylad]

Very nice work , I can appreciate all the fine details on display here . The sad thing is when this machine is finished 90% of this fine work can't be seen .

[brawls43]

Love watching cages get put together! Great work, can't wait to see more.

[latoracing]

Sweet! Are you going back with the Grabber Green?

Oh yea, along with the C stripe. I always wanted a "G" code (Boss 302) car, but came up one letter before (F code 302 2V) with this one. I haven't decided to go with a reflective sticker, or paint the stripes on as of yet. Guess I'll figure that out once it goes to paint. I love Graber Blue, but that is getting a lot of attention these days, so it will get the factory color.

Thanks everyone for the nice comments and positive statements. The details make all the difference on anything you do, in my opinion. This is a very fun build for me, and a big learning experience to boot.

[1970 Boss]

Wow - your metal work is absolutely fantastic. Can't wait to see how this progresses.

[Gil]

70 Mustang is already awesome, but you are doing something really bada$$ !
Amazing fab. work... Love where you're going.
Gil

[GrabberGT]

Any updates on this?

[latoracing]

Haven't spent very much time on my junk lately. I have been busy fixing a 1966 Mustang convertible that had some major rust issues. It is almost done, so hopefully I will have some project funds to get me some more parts.

I did build myself a rotisserie back in the spring. I had a goal of making it store as flat as possible when not in use, but still strong. It has worked nice, as the '66 is on it as of lately.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20150328_195035_zpsgt6bhk09.jpg.html)

Took a break and made one of the may panels to tie the cage into the body of the car. This is across the top of the windshield, made out of 16ga CRS. I also had to try out my new dimple dies, which work very nice.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20150513_191148_zpsubjtdwgu.jpg.html)

Trimmed it to fit, a few minor adjustments, and this part will be ready for some primer and installation when I get back to it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/IMG_20150513_192048_zpsa6e73thk.jpg.html)

I plan on sticking this thing back on the rotisserie once the other car comes off so I can get back to making some headers and exhaust, ought to be fun. I am also itching to order my intake which will be different. Can you say Hogans? I will continue!

[latoracing]

I am finally getting some time to blow the dust off of my project and do some much needed custom work. Restoration work can be fun, modifying projects are much more fun. My build has been back up on the rotisserie for a week or two as I get prepared to construct some 4-2-1 Stainless Steel headers.

I have been messing with the Unisteer power RnP a little bit as it is one of the many components I need in place to route tubes around / away from. With the cross member mocked up, I took a few measurements for my oil pan. I had a friend of mine measure a Canton road race pan he had to see if it would clear. Since I have moved the motor back and down in the chassis, the Canton pan would not work at all. Modify one thing... so I gave my specifications to Armando (of Armando's Racing Oil Pans) for a custom wet sump pan. It is in the works.

Having one piece of the puzzle out of the way, I spent some time speaking with different header manufactures about all the aspects of different header designs, lengths, primary tube sizes, collector flanges, on and on and on. There is so much to consider when building headers, everything is a compromise. As I want to have a broad flat torque curve, not revving the motor past 6500, and a slim package. I decided on the 4-2-1 design and to go with components from http://profabrication.com which is located just south of me in Concord NC. Gave them my specifications and a couple of weeks later

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0114_zpszyzkssa3.jpg.html)

A box full of bends and collectors were picked up at their shop. Everything is either 304 or 321 Stainless Steel, all tubes are 18 ga. Their TIG work is beautiful and the slip fit connections are all but perfect. The header flanges are laser cut out of 3/8" 304 and face milled for an ultra flat gasket surface.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0116_zpsj3iwtwxm.jpg.html)

This is basically enough components to build one side. Specifications are 1 3/4" primaries at a length of 24" (equal length) to 2" tube 12" in length to the collector which has a 4 1/4" wide by 2 1/4" high oval transition. Attempting to keep all the exhaust as tight to the bottom of the car along with the oval exhaust pipes should keep it nice and neat. I plan on making an "X" pipe to some kind of mufflers exiting out the side in front of the rear tires, that will be a little later. Everything will be purge TIG welded, just because I can and it will produce stronger welds that hopefully will not leak. I had to stick the lower part of the header in it's relative position, just to see how it might turn out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0115_zpswjiyldge.jpg.html)

I have a bunch of other details to work out before I get to chopping up some tubing. Might be a little bit before Armando gets done with my pan, and there are a few other items I'm waiting on as well. Still have a bunch of work to do, so I'm gonna go get to it. More to come

[Zachalanche]

Oh yea, along with the C stripe. I always wanted a "G" code (Boss 302) car, but came up one letter before (F code 302 2V) with this one. I haven't decided to go with a reflective sticker, or paint the stripes on as of yet. Guess I'll figure that out once it goes to paint. I love Graber Blue, but that is getting a lot of attention these days, so it will get the factory color.

Thanks everyone for the nice comments and positive statements. The details make all the difference on anything you do, in my opinion. This is a very fun build for me, and a big learning experience to boot.

Definitely go with the reflective decal.

[70vertstang]

Following! Nice work!!

[BlackMachOne]

Awesome looking work so far. looking forward to seeing more!

[latoracing]

I don't want to screw up a bunch of this stainless tubing, so I ordered some add on packs of the Ice Engine Works modeling blocks a few weeks ago. The FedUp guy dropped them off today, and I had to mess around with them. I ordered enough blocks to do one side (hopefully) in the 1 3/4" 3" CLR to match my bends.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0147_zpsumf7vilx.jpg.html)

I spent 20 or so minutes to make this mess, just to see how the blocks actually work. They snap together fairly well, and are snug enough to stay put. The little alignment marks are a nice touch and should help with locating actual tubing later on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0148_zpsxjvm1i8a.jpg.html)

I need to figure out what I want to do with my steering column dilemma and find out if Armando is done with my oil pan. Lots to gather together, just so tubes can be routed. I am liking my Lego's, might go back out and play some more.

[wfo guy]

Good to know about the header parts. I can see saving huge amounts of time with the "legos". Nice to see your back on your project.

[Z06killinSBF]

Such an amazing build, I may copy your front end bracing. I like the way it looks in the fenders.

[latoracing]

Such an amazing build, I may copy your front end bracing. I like the way it looks in the fenders.

Copy away. I copied it off of another builder and did a slight twist on their design. There is a bunch of bracing that those bars tie into in the side cowl area and into the A pillars. I might do a little more sheeting to the bars to help keep a ton of road debris out of the area. Your car is much easier to add the braces to the sides as you don't have to deal with the side cowl add ons. The tube across the cowl is another great addition, but I don't think you want to go there unless you are needing a cowl, at least the way I installed it. You might be able to form some 1" square under the cowl pinch weld, wouldn't hurt.

[latoracing]

I have been working on making some panels to tie in the cage to the structure areas of the chassis. I have the "sun visor" area ready for a while, so the A pillars were next. I made a template of the area on the driver's side to begin with. I am using 16ga CRS to bridge these gaps, strong yet thin enough to work with. Having a shape that fit, I tried my template on the passenger side, which surprisingly fit. Repeating the process and a little trimming and forming I had two parts ready for some dimpling holes.

120018

I do not have a lot of room to put larger sized holes, and I didn't want an "Erector Set" look, so I went with 1/2" holes (outside of dimple area is 3/4") spaced 2 1/2" apart C/L. Making sure the drilled holes were nice and de-burred the press and die set got a little attention.

120019

The panel has a fairly good twist in the bottom area, which a few of the dimples wanted to flatten the shape back flat. A little more tweaking and these parts are ready to be welded in place. There are several more modifications I want to do around the windshield area, along with paint prep before they can be attached. These parts will be sprayed interior color (black) so they will not stand out like a neon sign.

120020

[Z06killinSBF]

Copy away. I copied it off of another builder and did a slight twist on their design. There is a bunch of bracing that those bars tie into in the side cowl area and into the A pillars. I might do a little more sheeting to the bars to help keep a ton of road debris out of the area. Your car is much easier to add the braces to the sides as you don't have to deal with the side cowl add ons. The tube across the cowl is another great addition, but I don't think you want to go there unless you are needing a cowl, at least the way I installed it. You might be able to form some 1" square under the cowl pinch weld, wouldn't hurt.
Awesome man, thanks!

[latoracing]

Jumping between build projects, I am still getting everything all mocked up for my header build, if i can ever get prepped. I had Armando build me a new oil pan since an off the shelf part will not fit due to the relocated engine and trans. The pan looks ok with it's zinc plated surface, I might powder coat it before it is installed for good.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0187_zpsclblasr3.jpg.html)

I had bought a Wilwood pedal assembly way back when and have finally gotten around to getting it installed. I need this in place to finalize my steering column setup. I had temp installed the pedals in the car by drilling a few holes in the stock firewall just to get a feel for the placement and to check for clearance. I had to "slightly" modify the firewall to accept the plate I had laser cut. Once everything was all trimmed and fitted, the new plate was tack welded in place. I still have the car on the rotisserie so the car is sitting sideways in the pic.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0206_zps93ojsmi3.jpg.html)

Being able to position the car in various positions while welding and grinding is nice since some of these places are a pain to get to. A little welding and a ton of grinding I have the area almost metal finished.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0207_zpsl7bdzt2l.jpg.html)

I have to build the inner pedal support so finish sanding will come after all that is in place. Checking for fit, and to get the pedal support in place I bolted everything in place and to see how it was going to look.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0208_zpsw8xclxnq.jpg.html)

This has turned out to be another one of my favorite modifications, it just looks like it is supposed to be there.

I have also modified a '85 Mustang tilt steering column to fit up to the stock dash mounting point. I thought I'd try the mod to see if it was feasible to install. The columns are cheap, readily available, have a round appearance, have the ignition key on the column, and the over all length is just right for the Unisteer rack I am installing. There are two stock mounts that are not going to be needed, so they went away first.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0165_zps3td0tzp7.jpg.html)

Using a piece of 1.750" .120" wall tubing (it was a drop off of a roll bar install) I made some 3/4" long, 3/4" diameter spacers which were drilled and tapped 3/8"-16 tpi. These spacers were bolted to the stock column mount and tack welded to the tubing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0166_zpse6h1btzb.jpg.html)

Leaving the spacers bolted to the mount I welded them in place. I had to move them to several different locations in order to be able to weld all the way around, but it was a very good fixture.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0167_zpsqojduzyz.jpg.html)

The tubing was cut in half to form a saddle which was tacked to the '85 column. I placed the saddle in a similar location to the stock column so everything might end up in the same place as stock.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0174_zpsnltz3inr.jpg.html)

I pulled my ultra crunchy dash back out of storage and bolted it back in the car. (that thing is nasty lol) Using it for reference the "new" column was bolted in place and the cover plastic stuck in place. There is a little gap towards the gauge area on top and the lower portion is long enough to be incorporated with the '70 lower dash cover. This might end up working out nice, at least I hope. I am installing aftermarket wiring so connecting it shouldn't be too much of an issue.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0175_zpsmusjzkmf.jpg.html)

I have a lower mount in the works, but have to finish the pedals before I can get that done. The universal joints all but line up without modifying anything, which is surprising. I am going to get a piece of 3/4" DD shaft and a different universal joint and be able to just bolt this to the rack. Sweet

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0178_zpsvwecd3u5.jpg.html)

I will hopefully get all these parts in place and get to building some headers. Slowly but slowly...

[funbnme]

cool build…any progress?

[latoracing]

cool build…any progress?

Jumping between my project and a '70 convertible that is getting some sheetmetal replaced. I do get to mess with it every now and again. Been modifying the Unisteer RnP mount, will post an update soon.

[blade]

Can't wait to see how that column works out, I have one out of a Lincoln that I would Li8ke to use in my 65. Is yours a tilt column?

[Dave B]

I really like that column idea, should work well. I may have to borrow this idea for my project.

[latoracing]

The column is a tilt unit and a cheep mod, if it can be wired (which should be no issue) Since it is Ford, it will be easy to get parts for. Much better than cutting up that expensive '70 tilt column or dropping some serious coin on a Ididit column. This mod should work in a bunch of different cars, hope it can be adapted easily to those who want to go there.

Got a call from Unisteer and my new universal is being shipped out, they were nice enough to exchange it for the one I need.

Since my rack will not bolt up to the car due to the relocation of the engine, I had a choice, well, I had a bunch of choices and I weighed all of my options. The two I could see being accomplished were to either make new aluminum clamp blocks to move it 1" down or remake the steel mount. I drew out the blocks, cause making a program on a CNC mill is much easier than making the steel part over. The parts were drew in Bobcat and they never looked quite right, the offset just looked funny. So, option two, bent some plate steel and got to laying out the new mount.

I bent the plate (1/4" by the way) in the press brake, which is also at work, and started from the centerline of the part. Picking up the two 1/2" holes that actually attach it to the bottom of the frame rails was the first task. The Unisteer part had 11/16" holes that all but lined up on my car. I can't see a stressed cross member having sloppy holes, so mine were made to fit without slopping them out. The four rack attachment holes were next and laid out 1" higher than the stock part. All the holes were drilled and they were checked against the original. Using the original I cheated and traced the outline for the outer portion and got a little creative on the inside, but not too much different.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0232_zps7xmd4jep.jpg.html)

I used mainly my Porta-Band to cut out the shapes and to remove anything that was not needed. The inside was done first then checked for fitment.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0233_zpskoyhtzwe.jpg.html)

While I had it attached to the car, I marked the LCA slots onto the new part. The Unisteer mount has some large round holes that let you get access to the bolts, and i'm sure it would have not been easy for anyone attempting to adjust them for an alignment. The connection will also help strengthen the front end of the car, like the modifications done to the Boss 302 T/A cars. More chopping on the plate for the outside areas, which were also hit with a flap wheel as to not injure me.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0235_zpsxlg026yf.jpg.html)

Had to check and see if my new part was going to work, so the rack was bolted in place, with just the right amount of clearance to the pan, this is going to work nicely. One thing I didn't like, and will be changed is the hydraulic lines. That would suck if they came into contact with something, so they will be scrapped and new ones bent and routed out of the way.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0236_zpsrlwq56th.jpg.html)

In an attempt to give this a little bit more strength, I bent a piece of 1.5" x .250" steel flat bar to fit the inside of the new mount. I also drilled the ends of the LCA slots and didn't finish that out just yet. Getting the flat bar all trimmed and fitted it was tack welded in place. Some of the area towards the lower control arm mounts on the car had to be cut off, and there will be some trimming for the rack boots, but it needed to be checked for clearance again before I got too happy with the welder.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0237_zps7vh3wnu4.jpg.html)

I removed my oil pan, bolted the mount in place along with the spacers to the LCA areas (to help keep it from warping while welding) and got to stitching. I really wanted to run some long welds, but it would have been a boomerang by the time I was done, so keeping it cool and going about 1" while jumping around, it was fully fried.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0238_zpsywukak46.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0239_zpso2f26xys.jpg.html)

It was left to cool so the next time I get to play I'll get it all dressed up, finish the slots and get on with the pedal assembly bracing.

[wfo guy]

I like what I see. :)

[latoracing]

Been searching for a different tail light configuration for my build as I do not like the stock '70 bezels. I have looked all over for some inspiration or something previously done to the rear of this year Mustang, but no such luck. I have seen '68 lenses incorporated into '69 tail light panels, along with some other totally flush mounted lenses for the '69 model, so why not adapt '69 lenses into the '70 panel. I was really board and attempted to sketch out what it might look like, (you will have to excuse my drawing, not great by any means)

124293

I will have to fabricate a filler panel to adapt the '69 parts along with some modifications to the '70 tail light housings, but it looks like it will work. Ordered some '69 lenses several weeks ago, so I could have something to go by. When they came, I had to see what this theory might look like on the car. Using some black spray painted cardboard as a very quick mock-up I stuck them on the car. My vision will be to have them stick out just a little, with either the chrome boarders removed or blacked out (no chrome theme on the car)

124294

I have to make a forming die to get the filler panels in the same shape as the rear of the car. The panel is slightly convex, which throws a kink in the works, but can be overcome. It will be a while before I get to it, as I have a ton of other projects ahead of this area lol.

So, what do you think? Good, bad, indifferent...

Thanx

[latoracing]

Had a free evening the other day and decided to get a little bit accomplished on my header building. As I have never done this before, I have done a ton of research and viewed a bunch of other's builds on this subject. Hope it pays off.
I have been working on getting all the components in their proper place for a while. I started with installing the head and valve cover, taped up all the ports, and installed some spark plugs in their respective holes. The flanges were bolted in place along with the Icengineworks starter plugs, slightly modified to fit the rectangle holes. With the car on the rotisserie, passenger side up, makes getting to these parts so much easier. This would be more difficult with the car on jack stands, but could be done. Taking good pics is also a challenge.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0276_zps4km4mt7o.jpg.html)

The tubes are 1.75" 18ga stainless steel and bends are 3" CLR. The header design is to have 24" long primary tubes (4ea) tying into 2ea 2" x 12" long secondary tubes, to the oval collector, which relates to 3", The first tubes that I started with was the very front, then the second from the front, since they will be tied together. The legos just simply snap together and can be fairly easily twisted to the position that they need to be in. A couple of spacers to keep them from drooping and hitting the block was all the bracing needed, at this point. These two runs are within one lego of each other. The blocks represent 1", so counting blocks gives you the total length, very cool.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0278_zps0fnxqyid.jpg.html)

Once the collector was slid over these two tubes, the rear two runs could begin. It took several attempts to get a good layout, which was interesting to say the least. I am basically stuffing 8' of tubing in a very small area, but it wasn't going to beat me. I spent about six hours getting setup and running what I have so far, which makes the entry fee for the legos worth while. Along with the amount of tubing saved, they really are starting to be worth every penny. So, a few more attempts, one complete start over for both runs, I came up with this.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0280_zps52et9rcp.jpg.html)

The roll of tape was necessary to hold up the two collectors, and to keep the assemblies in the right location. The blocks are pretty strong, but not that strong. They will come apart, and that is a pain. So a little precaution on unsupported areas was needed. Using nothing but 3" CLR bends is a little difficult, but they look nice and smooth. For an equal length primary tube setup, all tubes are within 2" of each other, which is scary. The minimum distance between any tube and the chassis is 3/8", with most having plenty of room around them.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0281_zpsoobcdnqj.jpg.html)

With this fairly sorted out, I am needing to make the round tubes fit in a "square" hole. I started by using a stake and a mallet to get the basic shape in a 2" long piece of tubing. Once it was close to where I wanted it, and it sorta fit the header flange, I pressed it in place with my hydraulic press.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0275_zpsbbtocogr.jpg.html)

It works, but takes forever, and can leave hammer marks.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0274_zpspukioh6v.jpg.html)

I am in the process of making a tool to hopefully press this shape into the tubes without having to beat them into submission. Going out to the shop to finish making the tool, more header fun to follow.

[Zachalanche]

looking forward to seeing those headers come together.....not looking forward to doing the same on my car.

[1970 Boss]

Interesting header collector design 4-2-1. I like how it's flat to the underside of the body.
A previous comment hit the nail on the head - the majority of this incredible fab work will not be visible once you are done. Love watching your build...

[latoracing]

Had a moment or four to use the mill at work to conjure up a saw fixture for my header project. They actually sell these, but what fun is buying it ($650.00 for this??? NOT) so I grabbed a chunk of UHMW from the leftover pile and cut out a inside radius block. Making it simple, a 3/8" hole was bored in the center and attached with a countersunk bolt to the aluminum base plate. The sides of the plate were also squared up in the mill, so it wouldn't have any issues with the double guide blocks I still need to make. I cut a relief slot in the center of the plate, referenced off of the 3/8" attachment hole.

Using the legos to set the angle of the bent tubing, the bolt is tightened and were ready to cut.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0317_zpsaoowbos4.jpg.html)

I had put a few reference marks on this bend and allowed for a little extra on the already trimmed side for forming to the header flange.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0318_zpsc7zp4qw3.jpg.html)

Holding the tubing tightly to the UHMW block, cutting went nice and easy, first time using it and I didn't know how well it would work.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0327_zpswr3r2j7h.jpg.html)

I wanted this to cut really straight and square. Sticking the freshly sawed tubing on the plate revealed a nice flat cut. A burr was holding it up slightly, after demurring there was very little gaps.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0328_zpsybkktnam.jpg.html)

Using some of the forming tools I made the other week, the area that goes into the header flange was shaped. I also cut another segment of tubing, using the legos to reference the angle of attachment, and tack welded it in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0331_zps3wh8ofas.jpg.html)

First trial fit on the car. The tubing doesn't want to stay in the header flange and will need a little trimming to get it sitting a little lower away from the shock tower. For the first two pieces of tubing, it looks like I might be able to make something out of all these bends.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0332_zpskilddcln.jpg.html)

[brawls43]

That looks awesome! I like the cutting jig helper. Keep up the good work.

[classiccarnut]

Can't wait to see these headers!

[latoracing]

Getting to mess around with these tubes this afternoon. I have been removing the section every time I tack another segment of tubing and reinstalling it to see how it it fitting. This is tedious, but much better than attempting this portion of the build without a "template". When a section of tubing is tacked in place, the lego section is removed so I can use the marks to align the next part.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0340_zpso942ajkh.jpg.html)

One piece at a time, each one custom fit, de-burred and cleaned. You can see all the Sharpie marks that I used for reference to align everything.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0338_zpscgmf0kai.jpg.html)

I might tack weld this first tube to the header flange, so it will stay put. It likes to work it's way out of position due to the slightly tapered fit. I am also going to do a little adjusting on the second tube to try and align the bends a little better which will lead to less weld joints. I can't get to crazy as it will mess up the other two tube routings, wouldn't want that.

[latoracing]

With the second tube all verified, pieces of tubing were cut one section at a time, tacked together, then put back on the car to mark the next section. It is a bunch of fitting but it helps with misalignment issues and slight template deviation.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0344_zpshnbcxqwk.jpg.html)

Using a clean piece of aluminum sheet on my welding table helps to prevent the stray grounding arc from marking the tubing while tack welding. I attempt to fuse the tubes together first, but it doesn't always go as plan. A little filler rod makes a very strong tack weld and usually doesn't break. Once all the parts were cut and tacked together the collector was slid in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0345_zpspyqlhmbk.jpg.html)

I did tack the first tube to the header flange before I started the second tube. I might tack it in place as well. Two down, six to go.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0347_zpsfaixbusg.jpg.html)

[wfo guy]

Lot of work! Time is of no consequence about now. :)

[latoracing]

Verifying the tube routing on the second paired run, these went a lot quicker than the first. I skipped #3 and routed #4. Having a straight tube to make the transition from rectangle to round was much easier.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0352_zpshhjhqhrc.jpg.html)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0351_zpsmhsqoy7z.jpg.html)

The last tube was interesting. I checked my pattern and it didn't want to fit over the newly tacked together #4 tube. A little bit of re-rerouting it was underway.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0355_zpsvikbqqlq.jpg.html)

There is one more section to put onto it, and these will be ready for some welding.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0356_zpsdn6witn7.jpg.html)

I did a little inventory of my bends for the other side. Since I am attempting to do "equal" length tubes I used very few straight sections. I guessed on the amount of bend I would need when I ordered them, I have 3 1/2 ish bend left out of 12ea. The Legos really helped with the culls, as I haven't messed up any bends (yet...), guess I'll get some more bends with less straight sections once I get the other side mocked up.

A while back I bought a modified Explorer cam sensor for my engine build. As it was a modified piece, I wasn't too happy with the "modified" part. My buddy sent me a link to Price Motorsports the other day when he saw that they carried a very nice version made to fit a 9.5" Windsor application. http://www.pricemotorsport.com I didn't wait and had them send one out, got it today. It ought to work, and look much better.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0354_zpsrzfw2pmg.jpg.html)

[latoracing]

Cut and tacked the last puzzle piece in place, which completes the primary tube portion.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0359_zpszaqi0clo.jpg.html)

I was curious to see if this web of tubes would actually come out in one piece, afraid not. I had to take all the tubes out of the flange to remove it, so I guess the engine will have to be sat in place after the headers are laid into position. The price you pay for equal length tubes. Reassembled the pieces to get a look with them out of the car

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0360_zpsaezdmfbz.jpg.html)

Totally different looking at them this way compared to being stuffed between the block and shock tower. I am going to get the sections welded up so the lower portion can be built. With only two tubes, it should be much easier than the first part.

[Josh@Ridetech]

Nice updates! The car is coming along really nicely!

[Motown 454]

Amazing! Nice work.

[latoracing]

My project has been collecting dust for the past couple of weeks. I needed to pay it a little bit of attention to get some welding done. I gathered up all the little pieces parts that I needed for my back purging "kit" in order to get these tubes properly joined. I had an old regulator lying around (actually new in a box...) and brought home another bottle of Argon that will basically be vented to atmosphere. A few 1/4" barbed hose fittings and a 1/4" ball valve, along with my 1 3/4" I.D. cap (welded it up several weeks ago) and the purge was ready to go.

Filling the stainless tubes full of argon helps keep the inside of the tubes nice, and the welds much stronger. With the cap connected to the hose, and a piece of tape over the "square" end of the tube, a small hole is cut in the tape to keep the pressure down. I was running between 4 to 5 PSI to displace the oxygen in the tube. Allowing the argon to flow for a few minutes ensures a complete purge, and it's ready to fry.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0386_zpsfi9r9v7q.jpg.html)

Welding each section of tubing really didn't take that long. I haven't welded smallish round tube in a while, so it took me a little bit to get back in the swing of things. I was using 308 .030" stainless filler wire for all the weld joints, 1/16" tungsten, 60 amps, pulsed. Once the tubes were cool enough, a little red scotchibrite was used to clean the HAZ and inspect my welds (as I had missed a few places... oops...)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0387_zpskmwz2dtr.jpg.html)

Once all the tubes were fully welded up I needed a way to purge multiple tubes while welding collectors on and the flange attachment areas. I grabbed a piece of 2 1/2" square 3/16" wall tube and transfer punched the flange attachment holes on to it. These holes were drilled 3/8-16tpi and openings were cut for the tube openings. I made two plates to cap the ends, one with a piece of 1 3/4" tube to connect my cap to and welded them in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0388_zpseaxkm429.jpg.html)

Taping up the first two holes in the manifold, the flange was bolted in place, the front tubes were tacked to it, and the collector was also tacked in place. Checking one more time on the car, back on the manifold, everything was welded to stay.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0389_zps614honla.jpg.html)

The header was removed from the manifold again, to remove the tape, then bolted back down. The rear tubes were put in place, ready for the next time I get to work on it. These tubes will not be welded to the flange just yet, as the 2" secondary tubes have to be butt welded to the collectors. (can't get all the way around them) The collector will be welded in place, then all this goes back on the car. More tube cutting / fitting to come....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0390_zpslgdbwecr.jpg.html)

[Bossed]

Mike, I don't think there's anything you can't do with metal !!! Looks amazing, just like everything else. Keep up the good work.

[funbnme]

I want to have welding skills like yours when I grow up.

[latoracing]

Thanks for the compliments, I really appreciate them.

Spent a few minutes cutting and fitting the remaining two pieces of pipe for the "2 into 1" portion of my header. Once I had the first piece trimmed to fit where I wanted, it was tack welded in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0403_zpsxpoicgir.jpg.html)

The second piece was a lot easier as the first piece held everything in place. Once it was trimmed, it was tacked in place as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0404_zpszb1uemy0.jpg.html)

I stuck my under floor convertible pan supports in place, knowing that the pipes were going to run right into them, so those will not be going on the car, it should be OK without them. I would rather have the headers the way they are anyway. I'll get them back off the car and completely weld them up (some day...)

[Tex Scrotum rides again]

Love the pipes, it's something l'm taking a lot of interest in as I will also eventually be making my own.
A nice set of extractors really makes a big difference to an engine bay and is worth the time and effort.

With your convertible strengthening pans, couldn't you notch them for the pipes, it'll probably add even more stiffness to the pans and chassis, you certainly have the skills and you may even be able to improve the "look" as well.

Really enjoying your build!

Cheers!

[Fahrenschnell]

Loving this build. Keep us updated please

[latoracing]

Took a brake from prepping the convertible to get this header completely welded. I was so close, I just had to get it finished lol. Once I got it removed from the car (that was fun) it went back on the manifold. The first section of tube (first one I cut) was welded to the mid collector. Once it was all welded up, the second tube was welded up, then the main collector was slid in place, tacked and permanently attached.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0412_zpswuuomqx9.jpg.html)

Once the collector was all welded up, the tubes were welded to the header flange. I used a larger filler rod along with adding a lot of filler material to the weld, they came out much better. I let everything cool down, then removed the assembly from the manifold to weld the inside of the tubes to the header flange. A little shaping of the tube to get it fit nice and snug, they were all fried. I added just a little bit extra filler wire to ensure a nice flat gasket surface, once the welds are ground flat.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0414_zpsa48jntya.jpg.html)

I'll get all this cleaned up and put back on the car for the upcoming exhaust portion. Now all I have to do is make one like this for the other side. There are a few loose ends I have to tie up before I can get the legos back out. One down, one to go...

[Bossed]

Mike, have you got a goal set or roundabout idea for when the fab work will be done, or when you'd like to see it completed?

[latoracing]

Mike, have you got a goal set or roundabout idea for when the fab work will be done, or when you'd like to see it completed?

I'm just having fun building, no timeframe or completion goal at this time. Having other people's builds in the shop takes up a lot of my time and I haven't spent much time on my stuff, kinda how it goes

128481

I will probably go nuts once all the fab work is done on my car as this is my favorite part of building cars. The body work and such is ok, just not as much fun, but will be nice to see it get a little bit closer to completion.

[groho]

love weld porn! Its such an incredible skill and art when its done at such a high level. Absolutely awesome!

[migg400]

Love the project and Welding porn too!

Awesome......

[Motown 454]

Nice work!

[wfo guy]

Have you got some more pics of your frame table? I'm interested in what you did for the risers under the body.

[latoracing]

Have you got some more pics of your frame table? I'm interested in what you did for the risers under the body.

The rear risers are 3"x3"x1/4" tube through drilled and bolted into the forward leaf spring mount

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/Vicfreg%201970%20Convertible/KIMG0198_zpsqrjam8de.jpg.html)

The forward stands needed to be adjustable to level / adjust the chassis. More 3" square tube was used along with a piece of 1" square tube on the inside for a guide. I didn't have much room to attach the mount to the frame rail as I was installing the driver's side torque box.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/Vicfreg%201970%20Convertible/KIMG0199_zpsswbwubsg.jpg.html)

I made a plate, drilled a 3/4" hole in the corner, and welded it to the tube assembly. The actual adjustable mount is 3/4" threaded rod with a nut welded on one end. The "bolt" slides inside the 1" tube guide, and the welded nut is tack welded to the underside of the frame rail.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/Vicfreg%201970%20Convertible/KIMG0200_zpsfsljf2bi.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/Vicfreg%201970%20Convertible/KIMG0213_zpse0dwwsdd.jpg.html)

You can see the "bolt" placement in this pic. Used a laser level to shoot the datum line to adjust the chassis. The rear of the car had to be supported as well, so I made some clamp style mounts for some 1 1/2" square tube that were stitch welded in place. This helped even up the door gaps.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/Vicfreg%201970%20Convertible/KIMG0243_zpsv5f90vuj.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/Vicfreg%201970%20Convertible/KIMG0244_zpsnkrbvl9l.jpg.html)

The main structure of the table is 4" square 3/16" wall tube, leg gussets are 2 1/2" square 1/4" wall. It all bolts together for future storage.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0195_zpsvvlkkwzk.jpg.html)

Wasn't that expensive to build, just required a little planning for the cross members, but since it is all stitched together, can be "easily" modified for other vehicles.

[wfo guy]

Thank you!

[latoracing]

Took a minute here and there over the past month to attempt some more progress on the header fabrication. Had to get the column all situated and my 3/4" DD shaft all trimmed up. (made it out of some stainless round bar) With the head and valve cover installed, the mock-up on the driver's side went rather quickly. Having a little more confidence on this side I made two of the four starter tubes, which made the process a little easier. Now to find some time to start cutting up U bends (which I had to buy more of...) and get this side done.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0429_zpsek0uwp0g.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0430_zpsvth4fsfc.jpg.html)

[latoracing]

Half way done with cutting and tacking the driver's side components. So far so good.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0453_zpsyks6wf3s.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0452_zpsl4fxlfhe.jpg.html)

[latoracing]

As time is always an issue, it has taken a little bit to get the rest of the parts cut and tacked together. The routing stayed fairly close to the original model.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0001_zpslqxvr8ke.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0002_zpsextwds3x.jpg.html)

Much like the passenger side, everything has decent clearance and the tubes were in the 2" variance range. Also much like the passenger side, it doesn't come out in one piece, the shock tower is the main obstacle, but I will live with them.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0003_zpsg0mld0y6.jpg.html)

I am in the process of welding all these segments together, then back onto the car for the 2-1 segment.

[latoracing]

All the main tube segments are all welded together, along with the first and third tubes welded to the flange.

The head has to come off for installation and removal of the tubes now as it barely fits in the hole without the head in place. Stuffing all of it back together, the lower section of tubes are cut and tacked in place. I am not 100% satisfied with the way the collector is sitting when compared to the passenger's side. I might cut it back apart and re-configure it, but for now...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0010_zpswy2pyagd.jpg.html)

[Centerforce]

Your fab skills are amazing! You can really tell how much effort and care went into making those headers! We're subbed for the ride.

[linkstar69]

Subscribing just for the inspiration

[gschris]

any new progress?

[latoracing]

any new progress?

Yea, a little, it seems to not get enough attention lol.

I did cut the sections back apart as I was not excited about how that area looked. I stopped by Pro Fabrication's last Friday and picked up a few 90 degree 2" diameter elbows and chopped them up. I ended up using 28 degrees for each pipe, which made the area nice and neat.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0014_zpsb74wyn2r.jpg.html)

Getting this side out of the car this afternoon was quite fun. Between removing the head, the motor mount had to be undone to jack the block up a little, it was being stubborn. Went ahead and welded one of the sections together, all ready for cleanup.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0018_zpsxkwgc1a5.jpg.html)

I'll get the other side welded and put these sections together for the last time. I know I'm slow lol...

[chunger]

Ok, probably a silly question, but - why is the header tube sealed up to weld? Are you putting some gas in there? I take it this is necessary for Tigging it?

[linkstar69]

Ok, probably a silly question, but - why is the header tube sealed up to weld? Are you putting some gas in there? I take it this is necessary for Tigging it?

That's to purge the tube of oxygen and put argon inside for better quality welds

[latoracing]

Back purging a tube with argon protects the molten puddle on the inside of the tube while welding. I am welding mainly 18ga (.049") 304 /321 stainless steel. There is a thread on here https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/92168-The-art-of-purge-welding(-back-purging) that gives a better description, if you want to go into more depth.

I welded two scrap sections of tubing together, one open, one purged, then cut them in half.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0021_zpshnl2xcz6.jpg.html)

Obviously the one on the left is without argon. As the weld puddle gets exposed to oxygen the weld "sugars" up, gets puffy and contaminated. (there's more to it ,but it is a general idea) The reason that I do not want this inside my headers is this defect can lead to cracking of the weld when it is heat cycled, plus it disrupts airflow. Having to wait on the purge to do it's job, and having to work around a inlet hose is annoying, but well worth the trouble.

I welded the other section together and cleaned up all the welds with scotch-brite. Some of the areas will be impossible to clean once the header is all assembled, so this needed to be done before final assembly. Once all tack welded together, with the purge running, the main collector was welded in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0022_zpsjbipi5xk.jpg.html)

The tubes were welded to the flanges and everything was left to cool off. The inside part of the header flange will be welded the next time I get a free moment, and these are all but finished.

[chunger]

That's fantastic, the pictures make it really clear.

Thank you!

[classiccarnut]

Hello there, awesome progress on your 70 fastback! Cant wait to see what else you have in store for this build! Your fabrication skills are incredible! I don't mean to hijack your forum but I was on another website called "Vintage Mustang Forums" trying to figure out how I should go about restoring my 1966 Convertible. The car needs floors, inner rockers, and front torque boxes. Anyways, as I was scrolling through this one forum on 'VMF' I realised that you were doing the restoration for a client (red 65/66 convertible with the same issues as the car I am rebuilding). I read through the whole progress on the car. Again, amazing job on the final product (hope i can achieve the same outcome). Now I noticed you built a small jig for that car but built a chassis table for the 70 convertible up above. One of my biggest fears is my car folding (car is currently set up on jack stands but don't feel 100% about it. I wouldn't mind building a chassis table as I plan to build more cars in the future. Is there any chance you could send me the overall specs of your table? Length, Width, height, spread between the cross bars, etc. Would make this build of mine alot less of a worry to folding! Any info would be greatly appreciated!

[GrabberGT]

Im really enjoying this build but is there any chance you can ask to have the title of your thread updated? Having an actual "Grabber" makes it kind of difficult to read "Graber" in your title. LOL

[latoracing]

Small update...

Finished welding the flange on the inside of the tubes the other night. I was able to get it bolted back in place, glad it didn't warp to pieces. I was looking at the fit and noticed that there is a tab on the bottom of the transmission that is actually lower than the headers. That is fairly scary.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0030_zpspdfw69t3.jpg.html)

Looks like the FedUp guy will be delivering me some stainless steel goodies next week so I can get the exhaust portion of the build all wrapped up, more to come....

[Motown 454]

Beautiful job! This man has some talent!

[latoracing]

My shipment of stainless parts from Spin Tech showed up. I ordered a oval X pipe kit in the 3" equivalent size along with some custom sized mufflers with the inlets installed close to the bottom and no outlet.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0052_zpsvrd3c1p6.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0053_zpsva210au1.jpg.html)

The reason for the no outlet is I am not 100% sure of what I want to do for the side exit exhaust. The mufflers are a 4" tall case, 10" wide and 15 1/2" long with 8 spin chambers, hopefully not obnoxiously loud. I'll have to do some rearranging of the pipes, and chop up the X to shrink it down a little. More to come on this

[Z06killinSBF]

With no oulet they should be fairly quiet

[rchaskin]

Great meeting you, and nice to put a name to a face!!

This is an awesome project!!

[latoracing]

Great meeting you, and nice to put a name to a face!!

This is an awesome project!!

Thanks Randy. Likewise with being able to put a face with the profile. I still love the simplistic yet effective build that you have. Looks to be very enjoyable and an all around fun project.. I need to attend more events to see what all goes into all of this lol.

[70vertstang]

Looking good bud!

[latoracing]

I have not accomplished much on this poor thing in way over a month. I have been contemplating how to go about running this exhaust and fabricating the transitions from the headers to the X pipe. I have also been hung up on running the under seat riser convertible reinforcements. I cut out a few contour templates of the tunnel area and floor pan, but that's about as far as I got. The exhaust is going to take up a ton of room in that particular area. I'll do the exhaust first and build the reinforcements after, maybe...

I did order some flex couplers, hanger grommets, and some gasket material as I needed all these items to get these parts under the car. They do not make oval flex couplers with a liner, in 4" long versions. So I purchased 3" round and will form them to oval (I've all ready modified one, it's nice)

I have also jumped off the deep end and ordered a present from me to me, should be completed around the first of the year. I'm going to keep everyone in a little suspense, but it connects to this...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0112_zpshmwumdqm.jpg.html)

[Josh@Ridetech]

Looking really good!

[latoracing]

Well, it fits...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0132_zps5eb8ymtp.jpg.html)

Santa came a few days early. I have been looking at these manifolds since the beginning of my build. I was torn between an 8-stack EFI setup, or this...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0133_zpsdqagswdn.jpg.html)

Forward facing throttle body, cross ram, single plenum with a removable top. Hogan's recommended an oval throttle body as the plenum is wide and short, which I liked anyway. I had them leave the top plate plain a I want to do some 3D milling on the top, just don't know what to put on there yet...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0135_zpsx6vf5p7e.jpg.html)

With the top removed you can see all the innards and the amount of work this thing took to make. The pictures do not do this thing justice.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0136_zpsmf3vq5qh.jpg.html)

Hogan's is great to work with and have been building manifolds for years, their work is impressive. I'm sure this will work as good as it looks.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0137_zpsx8uutc3g.jpg.html)

[Josh@Ridetech]

^ That's beautiful!!

[Dalpilot]

Wow Mike, that is amazing.

[Centerforce]

That manifold is a work of art! Keeping that type of weld consistency on something aluminum of that nature is NOT easy.

[latoracing]

Look, I actually worked on this today!

I have been looking at getting this exhaust fitted for some time. I had the collector reducers formed for a while, but haven't welded the flanges on yet. I haven't seen this done quite like this with the flanges and a slip fit. I have a gasket laid out that I need to trim to make sure it doesn't leak.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0144_zpszpwi8gvd.jpg.html)

As these will be welded to the collectors, I purged them as the flanges were welded in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0143_zpsuqxzydhy.jpg.html)

The begging of the exhaust section stared with it's own flange, which was welded in place on both sides, then ground smooth.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0142_zpsf3bm7sih.jpg.html)

I had modified the flex connector a while back, they started out round and with the help of my vice, are a nice oval shape. These are the double layer, bellow inside, braid outside. They should help with any vibrations and thermal expansion during use.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0145_zps6ida05vk.jpg.html)

With the upstream parts all shaped, I trimmed the two 45 degree elbows to fit and tack welded everything in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0146_zps8fodpdua.jpg.html)

I am in the process of welding all this together. The flex couplers are fun to weld. It helps to run a small bead on the wire to fully cover to the bands. Basically having to do a double pass. Time consuming, but the results are nice and neat.

[brawls43]

The slip fit flanges look nice for reducing/eliminating leaks, but you'll need extra space to the rear to get that welded section out. Might want to keep that in mind, if you have to remove everything to the rear, so I be it, I suppose. Nice work though!

[latoracing]

As this is designed as a side exit, the over all length isn't awfully long and should be fairy easy to drop down and slide back. If this was an over the axle system the slip fit connections would be a major issue.

Thanx

[brawls43]

Oh yeah, you're doing the side exit. Good point, figured you had thought it through with as nice as all your work is. Just might get heavy. Love the oval pipe, I've always wanted to try using it.

[latoracing]

The Spin Tech bends are ok at best. They are not super high quality as there are waves and the inside radius is all but flat. As there are just a few people who bend oval tubing, I will try another vendor (if I can find one) for oval tubes on future builds. The other side to going oval is $$$$$, this small system is rapidly approaching 2K! (without the headers) If you have to have a small profile exhaust, the cost is worth it, otherwise, save your money lol. Round is much easier to fabricate and find "normal" fittings for.

[latoracing]

Made a little more headway with the exhaust. Flipping the car upside down helped as I didn't have to clamp very much in place. I had a general idea of where I wanted the mufflers to sit, but have been torn between going out the rocker, or going up and through the quarter. The quarter exit will be a little less work, but will require a cover over the pipe on the interior, along with a bunch of sound deadening material. Anyway, I took a bunch of measurements and looked at several ways to connect the X to the mufflers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0147_zpsj9mespfr.jpg.html)

After chopping the back side of the X down to hardly anything, I chopped down the two remaining 45 degree elbows and tacked them in place. I also trimmed the offset pipes and stuck them in the muffler inlet tubes. Sticking all this back in the car, with my make believe PVC drive shaft, it looks like this might work.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0148_zpsguhxckcb.jpg.html)

There are a few things I need to straighten up, along with constructing some muffler hangers and making a decision on the rocker / quarter exits...

[latoracing]

Did a little bit of welding yesterday afternoon. Had to undo a few areas to correct some alignment issues, re-tack welded everything back together, and got the rear sections welded together. I didn't weld the mufflers on just yet but did start designing the hangers as the slight movement of the slip fit isn't that much. I did increase the distance from the muffler to the floor pan clearance, for a straighter shot without having to use the flex connectors as an elbow.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0154_zpsdljyluld.jpg.html)

Happy 2017 everyone!

[wfo guy]

I really appreciate the fact that you can turn the body upside down to do that work. I'm an old guy and that would be wonderful. :)

[latoracing]

In an attempt to figure out what style and placement of tips I wanted to do I messed around with several different shapes, sizes and placements. This exhaust is coming out of the side of the car, one way or another lol. I've looked at SEVERAL different tube configurations and shapes and have decided to go with two 3" oval outlets. I started with mocking up going through the rocker panel...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0156_zpsapvp64xw.jpg.html)

Then I tried a little bit different shape on the lower quarter...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0160_zpsd6kkfz6a.jpg.html)

(which I didn't like) so through the rocker it is. I got started by making a stainless sheet profile of the rocker as it will be part of the tip surround. It will also be removable for access to the tips, hopefully.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0161_zpsddmfyeir.jpg.html)

A little more visualization of my thought process...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0162_zpsbdz4hurc.jpg.html)

In order to see what will actually fit, and how much modifications to my new floor pan I am going to have to make, I got to chopping up some metal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0165_zpsvtalcs5c.jpg.html)

As you can see through the hole, there is a floor pan half way in the hole, along with a frame rail in the distance. Yea, just a little bit of creative notching and reinforcement to do. I'm going to build the tips first and work my way to the frame rail. I've cut up a few bends and laid out some templates of possible routings, no turning back now lol!

[linkstar69]

Keen to watch this mod come together, I've got some rust in my hardtop in the same area and have been thinking of adding a side exit exhaust while I'm there.

[Motown 454]

Your doing a great job on the exhaust, I like the side exit. That manifold is killer, they do beautiful work.

[Centerforce]

That exhaust tip placement is going to be neat! It reminds us of how some older Trans-am cup cars used to be.

[latoracing]

I have been in the designing phase lately. Trying out different shapes and configurations for the tips. As I have made 50 different cut templates, I finally have one I'm going with. I drew the shape on a tube, then made a negative template for all 4 tips.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0169_zpsh1dxs6ey.jpg.html)

Sliding the tube into the template, the outline can be marked and semi easily trimmed. The contour resembles the rocker shape, looks a little weird on the work bench, but blends well with the car, least I think so...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0170_zpsc7htqe1i.jpg.html)

With the tip profile done, I started trying to figure out how to make these two tubes go into one. I had two 2" 90 degree bends that I was going to make tips out of, instead, cut them in half and started fitting them to the oval tubing. The oval stuff is 2 1/4" x 3 3/8", the 2" tube needed a little expanding to fit. Some careful persuasion expanded each half to fit quite nicely. They are just shy of the tangents on the oval, but I will be able to finagle the parts to work. I made the inner radius piece first, carefully trimming it to fit the oval tube. Once happy, I tacked it to the tip. A little trimming on the longer section allowed these two parts to be almost ready to tack together. The outer radius is stuck in position to get a measurement for a transition to the round 2 1/2" tube from the muffler. I'll have to lay out that part next, which should be interesting.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0171_zpsn3uxlqfe.jpg.html)

[Dalpilot]

Well done,

[latoracing]

With not having to lay out a part like this in quite a while, I was able to get a paper template made of 1/2 of the oval to round transition. Laying it out on some 16ga 304 the parts were cut out, formed and tack welded together.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0174_zps2kja0nfy.jpg.html)

I was also messing around with the visible tip area and after chopping up some more tubing the pieces were tacked to the tips. As the same size tube stuck on the outside of another tube, there is a gap that has to be filled (obviously) which was filled with some strips.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0175_zps35jb0hun.jpg.html)

My intentions for these outer pieces is to make the tip look thicker and allow for a nice radius on the edges. Trimming the outer parts to be just a tad longer and welding the edges together with some extra filler wire will give some material for shaping.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0176_zpsqywngiee.jpg.html)

Welding all the way around, rather quickly, gave me the results I was after. This tubing is awful to weld. They must use nuclear waste in the mandrel lube. I soaked these parts and still had oil come out while I was welding. Oh well, it's fixin' to be ground into a more presentable part.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0177_zpsh6ega7m0.jpg.html)

After a few touch ups and a bunch of grinding and sanding, the tips are just about ready to be brush finished. I'm going to cheat and take them to work and use the large machines there to give it a proper #4 polish. The ends need to be basically final finished before joining the two parts together, much easier to finish as separate parts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0178_zps35emhxpj.jpg.html)

[linkstar69]

They look great

[HotRod47]

Incredible fabrication skills.

[latoracing]

Thank you all for the compliments, i appreciate it.

I was able to get the outer portion of the tips to a final finish the other day. I removed the 80 grit flap wheel marks with a tricut 3-M belt (A-45 to be exact). You would think that there was no abrasive on the belt, it cuts like 40 grit, but leaves a 600 grit finish. Taking about 10 minutes a piece, the finishing portion went quickly. I wanted a very light brushed almost matt finish on these parts. The finish after the A-45 belt was a little bit too shiny, so a grey scotch-brite pad was used to tone it down a bit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0180_zpsr3rd2ktw.jpg.html)

The edges were blended a little more, to give just a touch of definition. The finish should be durable as I "tested" this set out by accidentally dropping them on the floor, they were easy to touch up. Finished parts being welded together is always a challenge, at least when I do damage the finish, it usually isn't too difficult to repair. Now to get them welded together...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0181_zpsxyjuhuth.jpg.html)

[brawls43]

Man those look so awesome! Great work!

[Dalpilot]

Wow Mike, those turned out amazing.

[Centerforce]

Superb work! We don't recall seeing anyone make their own double-walled tips in a build thread yet. It was hard to tell at first how they would come out, but finished up they look perfect.

[68EFIvert]

Beautiful work!

[Sj_mr2]

That's the most interested I've ever been in a set of exhaust tips. Great job!

[latoracing]

Superb work! We don't recall seeing anyone make their own double-walled tips in a build thread yet. It was hard to tell at first how they would come out, but finished up they look perfect.

Trying to get a person to "incorrectly" TIG weld something together and add 3x the filler material is hard for some to learn. I used to production weld stainless furniture frames together and we use this type of welding technique daily. People who come to work for us who have a pipe welding background have the worst time lol. They are used to being so hot and not gob on the filler material, takes a little practice. The before grinding picture of the tip is quite ugly in my opinion, but it's like making a sculpture, takes a little material removal to get to the pretty. There were very few spots I had to go back and touch up due to pits or pin holes. Heat control is a must with this as well, you can really warp a part to the point of no return if one is not careful as this is 16ga material.

Thanks for all the compliments everyone, I really appreciate it!!!

[latoracing]

I've been busy lately, but have sneaked in a few minutes here and there getting the tips welded together. Not a lot of progress, but at least there is a little effort. This is the driver's side getting the seams stitched together.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0201_zpsk6hro09x.jpg.html)

I had the passenger side welded together the other day and have partially cleaned it up

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0193_zpsxxwha53j.jpg.html)

Might tidy them up a little more, then it's time to make some larger holes in the rockers and attach these to some mufflers....

[latoracing]

Since the tips are all done and cleaned up, I got started on making the rocker tunnel pieces. I had drawn a 1 to 1 scale layout for the opening along with doing all the fun math for the part lay out lines. Marking the bend tangent lines on the 14ga steel, I had a little to trim off as I gave myself a little extra room for home forming issues.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0203_zpslzj4pphz.jpg.html)

As I don't have a slip roll (maybe one day...) I have to do things a little differently. The oval to round transitions that I fabricated where formed on my box and pan brake, (step breaking) so these tunnel pieces got the same treatment, to get them started. Placing a slight bend every 3/16" to 1/4" a radius is formed without looking like a stop sign. The hardest part of a hand bent piece is getting the tangents just right, so this helps with symmetrical parts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0205_zpsyswfl2nk.jpg.html)

I basically used a 3" dolly to form these parts over. The outside finished dimension was to be 3 3/8", so spring back was a helpful instead of irritating. Most of these parts I bent them a little at a time, then finished them off with the 11R's

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0202_zpsi1e5lsbe.jpg.html)

After checking my work against my 1 to 1, the parts were trimmed to fit as I had to have extra material to form the radius on the short portions.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0204_zpslvcs2htr.jpg.html)

Once I was happy with the fit, the parts were tack welded together, then fried them on the inside. I did the "grind" style TIG weld again as I want to metal finish these parts on the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0206_zpsdi0tjvkl.jpg.html)

I got done making parts, so it was on to the car to make this stuff fit. I got lucky with the hole I cut in my rocker when I first started this mod. I trimmed the tunnel to fit in place, which took a bit as I didn't want to cut away too much. Once everything was trimmed, the Plasma cutter got a workout to clear away all the stuff that was in the way of the tip fitting. So as all that material became debris on the floor, I trimmed the back portion of the rocker to the newly formed tunnel. Happy with it's fitment, I traced the outside and rough cut it with the Plasma cutter, leaving a little extra just incase.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0207_zpsj3wgzjms.jpg.html)

I'll get this prepped and tack welded in position next time out. I have a repair to make to my torque box as my dual tip idea got me into the back corner a little. Lots left to do, but at least it is starting to come together.

[latoracing]

With a bunch of grinding, about 30 minutes of welding, and more grinding, the tunnel portion is in place. There is a bunch more grinding and a ton of touch ups to do as I ended up welding the quarter to rocker seam solid. The tunnel was too close to the seam and would have looked weird. I might grind the seam in place, kinda like extreme rigid seam sealer, or blend it all in. Will have to look at that area a little more.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0209_zpswtaw1fzp.jpg.html)

The yellow tape makes the tips stand out against the bare metal. I'll get the edges a little more defined and more symmetrical, more shaping to do...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0210_zpsedclfxd5.jpg.html)

[Motown 454]

Nice!

[Godbolt]

Great job. Really like it.

[latoracing]

To get the tips all centered in their tunnels I have been needing to fabricate some hangers. It would have been easier to form some round solid rod or get a stockish style hanger to do the job, but I couldn't resist. Starting with some 1/8" stainless I just started with a 6" over all length. Put some holes in it and dimpled them, then formed a little break on the lower potion to stiffen it up a little. A few more dimpled parts for the end, with a little trimming...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0214_zpsgrdf3mue.jpg.html)

After welding the end part on and a little cleanup, the parts start to take shape, The high temp silicone bushings I bought give the bracket a nice look.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0211_zpsvyag2ayn.jpg.html)

Giving an idea of how they will look, once I get them welded to the muffler...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0213_zpse7rmtsgd.jpg.html)

Now to make the tabs to attach these brackets to the car,,,

[Dalpilot]

Wow, even your muffler hangers are art.

[latoracing]

Did a little bit of trimming on the attachment brackets and got them welded to the mufflers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0215_zpstattxzpv.jpg.html)

Cleaned up the HAZ areas a little, then stuck them back on the car. Getting them in their respective positions, I took some measurements for the attachment tabs.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0216_zps3enfttd5.jpg.html)

I had pictured two designs, one was a basic formed angle, and the other was a bit more involved. I of course went with the more involved lol.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0217_zps1dpm3g6t.jpg.html)

I started with some internal doublers that will provide some much needed strength to this thin sheet metal. The "saddle" is a little smaller width wise so all this will get drilled and rosette welded to death. The tube is 1 1/8" x 1/8" wall DOM with a 7/8" spacer on the inside. I used a 3" long 3/8" grade 8 bolt, slightly modified, for the attachment fastener. I need to do a little more fitting, then all this will get fried in place.

[brawls43]

That's a pretty slick mounting system. Looks good. Your build quality is just awesome, makes me think I need to go back and redo some things.

[octane speed shop]

I am impressed, welding skill is amazing!

[Centerforce]

What a neat way to do hangers! Much better looking than simple old round bar.

[latoracing]

The mounts and doubler plates are all welded in place, they are not going anywhere.

Did a little bit of choppin' on this poor thing. The plasma cutter got a slight workout with the several layers of material and careful trimming of the areas. I didn't want to go nuts and chop out something that I'd have to put back, so baby steps and a lot of checking. I got it all to fit and tapped it in place. I rolled the car over several times to get to different areas and to watch the plasma slag fall out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0219_zpslatoat0o.jpg.html)

The upper (I get confused with the car upside down lol) part of the frame rail got a 2" radius area chopped out of it to help clear the V-band clamp flange. I will have to go back and weld a band in this area to reinforce it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0220_zps4ejkr8yh.jpg.html)

The V-band clamp didn't want to play well with the rocker tunnel, it would get stuck on the straight piece of tubing I had mocked up. So, 3 steps forward, 8 back. I removed a section of the top (there is that orientation issue again) to help in installing / removing all this assembly. I get to patch another hole ( along with my quarter as I sanded too much :( ) but that's half the fun...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0221_zps4prozdpu.jpg.html)

As the straight tube wouldn't get me anywhere close to where I wanted, I cut the tacks off and tacked a short piece of pipe with a 45 on the end. The V-band clamp flange will have to get a little notch in it to sit right, but for fitting purposes it was ok.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0222_zpsgs19aa03.jpg.html)

With some spacers, and a little tape, I was able to center the tip, and get a good measurement for the other portion of the tubing. A little chopping and the other elbow fell right in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0223_zpshuihbdfd.jpg.html)

With everything kinda in place, the tips stick out about a 1/4" too much (measures 1/2" from the rocker) so I'll chop all this apart again and re-tack everything, triple checking before it is all welded in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0224_zpslx6vwigv.jpg.html)

I also have to come up with a clamp / hanger for all this. Lots more to do, and I still have an entire other side to do...

[kingcrunch]

I like that exhaust routing. Put an Elmer Fudd cartoon pointing its rifle right above the outlets ;)

[rustomatic]

The exhaust work is awesome, far beyond my aesthetic/mental budget. I am curious to see what you'll do to add strength back into the rocker/faux-frame rail area. Is there a new rear frame plan in the works?

[latoracing]

Thanks for all the compliments, I appreciate them.

I have been in tedious land for several weeks. These tip mounting brackets were kicking my butt lol. I went through several tab designs, that were thankfully made out of paper, to verify if the tip could be removed with them in place.*

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0229_zpshhq0oeaw.jpg.html)

This particular example would not come out without hitting, so I came up with a multi piece design, which started out as rather large tabs.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0240_zpsxcbbr10z.jpg.html)

The second section of tabs have to be bolted in place, with not a whole lot of room to put many fasteners. The forward tab landed between what use to be the leaf spring mount, which is about 3/8" with all the layers. The rear area needed some beefing up as it was nothing but the floor pan so some 3/16" plate was formed and welded in place. The tabs incorporated more of the blue silicone isolators. I was using miscellaneous hardware to attach all this, hence the extremely long bolts. I pilot drilled the brackets so I could mark the parts welded to the exhaust pipe.*

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0243_zpsqjj662cz.jpg.html)

Removing all this, the brackets were drilled out to size and the attachment brackets received a little trimming. I used stainless nuts / bolts for the "actual" fasteners but I am definitely going with a socket headed fastener, as these hex head bolts are a pain to tighten. With all the pieces all in place, the tip is rather close to center, and can be adjusted with the V-Band clamp and the preload on the bushings. There is very little movement, it shouldn't go anywhere.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0244_zpsqtmwebda.jpg.html)

I need to tidy up all the chopped up areas and grind a bunch of welds along with fixing the hole I made in the quarter a while back. I did make duplicates of all the parts so hopefully the passenger side will not take six weeks to get to this point. I have some ideas on the "upper" side to reinforce the frame and cap off the area, more to come on that.

[latoracing]

While I was getting all the welds and plasma cut areas all smoothed out on the modified areas, I went ahead and finish welded the muffler to the pipe assembly. I attempted to keep the tube in the same relative position while I went around the joint. Everything turned out nicely.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0246_zpsu3ejzndo.jpg.html)

I dusted a little primer on the rocker area that was bare metal and removed the tape off of the tip. Getting all of it reinstalled on the car, without any extra bracing it still lines up, thankfully.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0248_zpspk19mbct.jpg.html)

I had to get a right side up pic of the tips without their yellow tape, the picture does not do them justice...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0249_zpsh599vhxr.jpg.html)

With a little rearranging, I'm onto the passenger side. The tip on the driver's side will have to come off again to make some cut templates, and for general reference. Hopefully the second side will be quicker.

[slimjim]

That looks great! I've never been a fan of side pipes until now, these look so at home there.

[brawls43]

I love side pipes. You are my hero with this project. Looks so awesome.

[devojrx7]

This is an amazing build. I'm about to start on my 70 Grabber blue project and you have given me all kinds of motivation. Thanks.

[454bug]

FANTASTIC fabrication skills!!!! This has been enjoyable to review.

Keep up the GREAT work! :1st:

[latoracing]

You all are too kind, thanks for the compliments. I really appreciate them.

Got to chopping up the passenger side. I made some templates from the other side and laid out all the cut areas. I removed the majority of the areas and left some material to fit the parts too. Getting the tunnel filler to fit was a little easier as I had a somewhat clue of how to go about it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0251_zpsp7rcgtoe.jpg.html)

With a little time, the hole in the rocker was just right, the inner rocker was laid out and trimmed. Lots of grinding and more material removal, the filler was tack welded in place. I went ahead and mimicked the notch from the driver's side and welded it in place, while I was at it. Getting the majority of the parts all welded up, it is ready for some metal finishing. It would be fun to leave it all messy without grinding the welds... maybe next time lol

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0252_zps3ybgzb1o.jpg.html)

[68Mike]

Have you figured out much more of your rack and pinion steering? I keep rereading that section to help me wrap my head around how I want to build one for my 68. Curious how you're going to to do the tie rods

[latoracing]

Have you figured out much more of your rack and pinion steering? I keep rereading that section to help me wrap my head around how I want to build one for my 68. Curious how you're going to to do the tie rods

The rack came with tie rods as it is a Unisteer kit. Since I dropped the rack 1" I will end up running a bump steer kit as the geometry will be awful if I bolt it up with the supplied ends. I have plans to put this on the table to get the front sheet metal all figured out along with the valance fabrication. The suspension will have to be installed to mount the wheels so I'll mock all that up at that time and check for issues.

[Motown 454]

It looks nice, great job!

[68Mike]

The rack came with tie rods as it is a Unisteer kit. Since I dropped the rack 1" I will end up running a bump steer kit as the geometry will be awful if I bolt it up with the supplied ends. I have plans to put this on the table to get the front sheet metal all figured out along with the valance fabrication. The suspension will have to be installed to mount the wheels so I'll mock all that up at that time and check for issues.

Awesome, thanks for the reply. Incredible build and skills you have

[latoracing]

Still slowly getting things accomplished, snails have a quicker pace than I do lately. Didn't want to re-hash the usual grinding and fitting portion, so a little fast forward. The welds are all ground down, and the majority of the areas are semi trimmed to final size.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0254_zps7g1cpakg.jpg.html)

Fitting pipes, welding V band clamp flanges, tacking stuff together... (with a gratuitous weld porn pic)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0256_zpst3ch0rdx.jpg.html)

With things coming together, a quick check to see if this fits, which thankfully it does.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0257_zpsoyakvfia.jpg.html)

I have removed the muffler to cut the exit hole in the side and get these pipes attached. The extra long, drawn out exhaust build is getting ever so close to completion, yea!!

[Dalpilot]

Amazing work as always Mike.

[latoracing]

As I continue to get interrupted with other issues (like putting a clutch in a AWD Outback, yea...) I have gotten the attachment brackets fabricated and positioned. They were already laid out so all I had to do was to cut them out, drill, bend and weld them up. A few holes drilled in the car (actually a bunch of other steps were needed, blah, blah blah...) and the passenger side piping is fairly well done.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0264_zps8jryuimo.jpg.html)

I removed the system and welded the muffler to the X pipe assembly. I do not like how the rear rocker area doesn't look like the other side. A straight edge confirmed that this side is about 3/16" flatter than the driver's side. So while the exhaust is off the car, this area will be chopped back apart and brought out to the same contour. My OCD will not let me ignore this.*

Barring any more surprise "friend" projects, I'll get that fixed and move on to getting the holes in the floor covered up.

[Dalpilot]

Are you going to have some heat sheilding between the exhaust and the floor? It looks tight.

[latoracing]

Are you going to have some heat sheilding between the exhaust and the floor? It looks tight.

It is beyond tight as it protrudes through the floor lol.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0232_zpshjzduybl.jpg.html)

I have a plan to give the frame rail a little beef-up and make a cover that will enclose the area. It shouldn't need any heat shielding, but will put some mat or lizard skin over the area. This is coming up.

[latoracing]

I fixed the rocker shape on the rear portion, it looks much better. The exhaust was removed, the band was welded in the frame rail notch and a few other touchups were knocked out. I decided to go ahead and remove the car from the rotisserie for a while, so over to the lift it went.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0265_zpsftr7hact.jpg.html)

The frame table was positioned under the car and lowered into position. I was glad it all lined up with just a little persuasion. I think it looks funny on this as I have only seen the '70 convertible sitting on it.*

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0266_zpshkvfu9ln.jpg.html)

The junk castors I used for the table do not like the weight of this car. With the block, heads and transmission in the chassis, along with a roof and cage it added some weight (compared to the convertible)**and the castors protested. I'll get it all in position and leveled, then get these holes in the floor filled back up.*

[Dalpilot]

It is beyond tight as it protrudes through the floor lol.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0232_zpshjzduybl.jpg.html)

I have a plan to give the frame rail a little beef-up and make a cover that will enclose the area. It shouldn't need any heat shielding, but will put some mat or lizard skin over the area. This is coming up.


It doesn't get any tighter then that. Lol

[latoracing]

Since everything else I have done on this car is "overkill", might as well continue with that theme lol. I wanted to give the frame rails a little more support, since I all but cut them in half. I also need a way to plug those huge holes I cut in my new floor. So I started with a template, then enlarged it a little. I then transferred the pattern to some 2" x 4" x 1/8" wall tube. A little bit of Sharpie guided plasma cutting and we have some roughed out frame beef-ups.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0270_zpsd35lyw3t.jpg.html)

A little trimming, some grinding, more trimming and the beef-up is starting to fit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0271_zpsl6jkkddd.jpg.html)

When I torched out the rough shape, I left a long strip of the top of the tube, which was cut at the tangent line of the radius on the corners of the tube. The front is bent down to the radius I cut into the tube, which takes the contour of the part.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0272_zpskd9h48pf.jpg.html)

Tack welded in place as the strip makes contact

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0273_zpslhtlt8sb.jpg.html)

Fully welded and ground. The radius on the sides mimic the original shape of the tube, (your how to for the day lol) and will look like it was formed, not welded.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0274_zpspdryeutw.jpg.html)

I have a couple of plasma holes I didn't get filled, but I'll take care of them shortly. I am going to cut some of the height out of these as they look huge, and probably do not need to be that big. I'll get it trimmed, then notched for the side pipe routing.

[Bossed]

Mike, it's one thing to be talented at working,welding and shaping metal, but to have the vision to merge your ideas and skills together is pretty impressive. I've enjoyed watching your work on this car from the beginning, and I can't help but wonder what you have up your sleeve next. :cheers:

[latoracing]

Mike, it's one thing to be talented at working,welding and shaping metal, but to have the vision to merge your ideas and skills together is pretty impressive. I've enjoyed watching your work on this car from the beginning, and I can't help but wonder what you have up your sleeve next. :cheers:

Thank you so much for the compliments.

This side pipe experiment kinda took on a life of it's own. I was not 100% sure it was going to work, but seems to have been pulled off. It will be interesting to see how it works once the car is running. I just hope nothing rattles and it is not obnoxiously loud lol.

I have a couple more areas I want to mess with before the bodywork starts. I've been working on a project that I wanted to build for a long time and it is starting to come together. (it is going to help with future parts...)

[latoracing]

Finished trimming in the beef-up part and down sizing it by over 1/2", it looks much better. I marked the area that it will be attached to and removed the floor leaving the frame rail flange exposed.*I did not want to weld this to the floor pan, that would have been fairly useless.*

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0277_zpsqyfnabvy.jpg.html)

With all that removed, I went ahead and marked the area for the pipe to go through and cut it out. I also cut a strip out of the leftover tube to enclose the 1/2 hole. A little bending in the vice, tacked and welded in place. I will trim the excess off and get the welds ground down on the beef-up and the frame rail. Should be welding this one in place on the next posting.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/KIMG0278_zpsoqlukw2g.jpg.html)

[latoracing]

Haven't updated this in a little while, been busy with an E-wheel build , it is a fun distraction but hopefully going to be useful on future projects.

I did get the passenger side beef-up welded in place a week or so ago.



I have the other side all trimmed, fitted and on it's way. The floor is laid out for cutting and that's where it's been sitting... The E-wheel is getting closer to being completed, I'll get back to this frame reinforcement business soon.

Meanwhile, weld, weld, weld, weld.....

141896

[linkstar69]

Can't wait to see how the e wheel turns out too

[Centerforce]

What in the world is that?

[justin51986]

What in the world is that?

looks to me like the start of a home built english wheel

[latoracing]

What in the world is that?

Justin is correct, it is an English Wheel, used for shaping sheet metal. This was some of my inspiration, along with several other designs. Mine is much smaller.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/latoracing/media/1970%20Grabber%20Green%20Mustang/workshop004_zpsi51iu8tm.jpg.html)

I have a specific project to build with it and should be able to find more uses for this machine. I've wanted one for years and finally went after building it.

[Dalpilot]

I know Mikes secret now. He told me it would happen to me as well and it did, (not that I have 1/100th of his talent). After a while, the building stuff becomes more addicting than finishing the project.

Well done Mike.

[Centerforce]

Justin is correct, it is an English Wheel, used for shaping sheet metal. This was some of my inspiration, along with several other designs. Mine is much smaller.

I have a specific project to build with it and should be able to find more uses for this machine. I've wanted one for years and finally went after building it.

Ah, got it! We thought it looked a little large to be a car part :hammer:

That'll be a useful addition to the garage if you plan on doing a lot of sheet metal work.

[latoracing]

Been messing around building machinery, finally got it powder coated and reassembled.

142716

Gotta get back to work on the car, and get some pics replaced at some point...

[Motown 454]

Beautiful job!!

[Dalpilot]

That looks awesome.

[Z06killinSBF]

WOW!! That's impressive

[latoracing]

I have been working on odds and ends, but got irritated with the exhaust tip floor pan patches. I did get the the other frame beef up put in place a while back

143730

So I decided to get my motivation back by completing the hammer form for the modified '69 tail lights. I despise wood (best use is for keeping the house warm in the winter lol) and do not like the way it works. The MDF that I used to make the form out of is still annoying, but I got everything ready to try out a piece. As the '70 tail light panel has a convex shape to it, the form also has the same radius to match, it may look flat, but it isn't. Sandwiching the material between the blocks, the clamp holes were marked, punched, then bolted together (so nothing slips)

143731


As I worked around each opening using several different hammers and punches, I was able to form the small edges into a decent shape, that needs a bunch of touching up. I smushed the middle opening's top, so that will have to be fixed. For the first attempt, it turned out decent. Removing the top revealed the formed 20ga.

143732

I had to see if the lens would even come close to fitting in the openings, with a little tweaking, they kinda fit.

143733

The corners are the biggest issue, as I need to build a dedicated forming tool to help form them better. The flanges are not quite tight enough due to the MDF giving a little, and hammering this by hand. I have a few more bends to add to this part, along with refining the shape. I'll stick it on the tail light panel and see if I like it before chopping up a brand new panel. More to come...

[Max_2018]

Any progress on this?

[latoracing]

I have neglected my build once again. Other peoples projects seem to have priority and soak up every bit of my extra time. I haven't touched my junk in forever.

I did sneak in a couple hours here and there to get the hammer form all completed. It required a little tweaking and held up for two more usable parts. In getting a couple tools fabricated to get all the little details beat into place the parts were rough trimmed and bent to match the body lines on the tail panel.

For this to work I needed some tail light buckets that were off a '69 as my '70 stuff wouldn't work out. The buckets needed some modifications, like that is a surprise. I chopped off the stock flanges and welded on some extended lips to be trimmed to the car a little later.

159748

I finally got up enough guts to chop up my new tail light panel. With a bunch of measuring and timid trimming I went ahead and chopped the opening for the new parts. Sticking the blank over the newly cut hole and marking the back side for more trimming.

159749

After carefully cutting and sanding everything to fit nice and tight, it was tacked in place.

159750

A little sanding and some planishing of the tacks it's all ready to get TIGed together. Hopefully I can continue to do more as this project is taking way too long...

[latoracing]

All welded, sanded and planished. There are a few tiny imperfections in the welded areas, but I do believe they will be OK.

159800

Now I have to figure out how to mount these tail light buckets and get some gaskets made. The original gaskets are foam rubber, no chance of getting anything like that in a pourable liquid...

Happy 2019!!!

[Bossed]

I was looking at pictures of 69/70 Mustangs and saw a picture of yours. Hope this message finds you well. Any updates on your build ?