Need primer recommendations

[67bird]

I need help with some primer recommendations. My scenerio is that I am getting ready to sand blast the shell of my 67 Firebird. For lack of a better term I need something to apply to it to "seal" it up. Obviously I could go to Carquest and grab some DP90LF and use that, but first, I was wondering if there was something better or soemthing else I should apply first or instead. Secondly I am not limited to the PPG brand, and I have had several people recommend Sherwin Williams line. My questions here are that most speak of the Ultra 7000 line. When I look through what that line offers, there seams to be several choices. I also noticed that they offer an epoxy primer in the dimension line. While money is of some concern (I was planning on shooting it myself), I would rather not skimp on materials. So I guess I am looking for some recommendations from either the PPG or Sherman Williams line.

[BobK]

Using anything other than epoxy would be a waste of time/money, IMO. If you're trying to protect the bare metal, you want something that's non-porous, and epoxy is it. It's also a great base for filler.

I've been using Southern Polyurethane's epoxy on my project, and have been happy with the results. It's not the cheapest stuff out there, but it's not too bad. I buy in quarts, since I don't want the activator to go bad over time (I work slow...lol), and it's $32/quart for the activator and $32/quart for the epoxy. That works out to $128 per gallon of sprayable material, and you'll pay even less if you buy it by the gallon.

[dhutton]

X2 on the Southern Polyurenthanes epoxy. Good product for a reasonable price.

[Josh]

DPLF is a great product, especially over fresh blasted steel. You can even park it outside afterward for a while if you had to.

[67bird]

For you guys that have used SPI, how does it react with other brands? You always here about product mixing, just checking to see if there where any issues.

[thinkfastroth]

I have used the dplf primers over the last 15 years and have been happy with the product. I have learned once you find a product you like stick with it, sometimes it costs more to try a new product have somthing go wrong and you get to do it over.

[dhutton]

I have had no issues with the SPI epoxy. It is even sandable. What I did have an issue with was the price of DPLF at my local paint supplier.

[zombiekiller]

i, for one, am not a fan of sherman williams. While in most cases it cures harder, it is also far less forgiving when it comes to light impact. where other paints will give a bit, my experience with SW is that it will chip far easier when other paints would ding. This means that a touch up brush needs to come out and blending clear is part of what would otherwise either be something you can let go, or hide ( to a degree) with detailing methods.

[2gofaster]

Another vote for SPI epoxy. I have been using it and their High Build for the last couple of years and have painted over it with numerous other products.

[sellersrodshop]

i've used SPI exclusively for a few years now, epoxy, 2k & clearcoats. love the stuff! as a plus, they have added UV protection to the black epoxy & its impervious to dot-3 brake fluid, so is in all reality a good one step chassis coating.

[elitecustombody]

I was very impressed with SW Dimension epoxy.easy to apply,thick and flows out to nice smooth finish with no dry overspray.

[Rick D]

Well Ben you know what I'm going to say, but let's back up a bit first. I see everyone talk about epoxy as it is the be all end all of primers, and it was 5 to 6 years ago. When we (the paint company's) took out the lead and other heavy metals it really became just another catalysed primer. Yes it has some corrosion protection, but nothing like back before the government made us help save the planet. Any way just saying that epoxy isn't everything that it used to be. And I know everyone's going to say that they haven't had any issues with what they've used, but most of the cars we are building are not being used in everyday use. In the collision line of paint's on the market today we don't use epoxy?? If it's the best don't you think it would be used where the collision shop has to give a LIFE TIME warranty with the repair? Just sayin! Now for your purpose Ben as long as you get it coated right away and I mean directly after blasting not when you get home, it will have already started to oxidize by then. Corrosion starts at the moment the raw metal meets with oxygen. For your purpose the brand it not as important as when. And for anyone wanting to know what I coat my metal with it comes in what would look like a baby wipe container and you WIPE it on, then coat with primer or sealer. Oh and SW makes a good house paint and WOW do they make an awesome floor epoxy! But car paint :hmm: not so good. Have fun!!