View Full Version : 1968 Camaro project
68TTT
05-05-2012, 05:49 PM
New project starting, would love to have some input. Plans are for a 383 with AFR heads and a hyd roller cam trying to get at least 500hp and 490#. Plan to run a TKO 600 5 speed. DSE front stage 3 kit and their leaf springs in the back with a 2" drop all around. Thinking of using 1/2 height body mounts to bring it down some more. Baer brakes at all 4 corners and a nice 12 bolt out back. Still trying to figure out if I can run a 4 point cage and still get my 2 year old in and out of the back seat. Any suggestions and tips will be nice. Thanks
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68TTT
05-06-2012, 02:39 PM
More progress... Vintage air will be nice this summer if I can get the car done before fall.
WICKED_SS
05-06-2012, 05:08 PM
Looks Like a nice project! sounds like your parts list will make it a fun car to drive! Good luck
68TTT
05-06-2012, 06:29 PM
I think it will be when its done. Still a long way to go. The car was a driver when I bought it but for some reason when the motor started knocking the suspesion and interior were no long any good either. Then I decided the paint went bad when the motor went out so now it has to be broken down and sent to my paint/body guy.
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68TTT
05-07-2012, 05:19 PM
After reading a thread about roll cages on the street I decided to remove that from the build as I will be eventually having a taller passange in the back as my daughter grows up. Other than sub frame connectors are the any ideas on how to stiffen up the chassis?
makoshark
05-07-2012, 07:24 PM
I think you made a wise decision there scrapping a roll cage having kids as passengers. The car sounds like it will spend a great deal of time as a cruiser. I personally would do DSE subframe connectors. Those will greatly stiffen your chassis. If you want to further stiffen it, then you could make or purchase a crossmember like the one DSE sells. OR, you could add the convertible car bracing underneath your floor pan. You could also stitch weld all the factory lap welds
build on fellow camaro owner, build on
evostilo
05-08-2012, 12:49 PM
Sounds like a great project, have fun with it
68TTT
05-08-2012, 07:41 PM
Talked to my painter today, it was going to be a few months before he could get to it and now he wants to work weekends to do if in a few weeks! Now all I have to do is prep the car. Oh wait, I should probably pick a color! And I was planning on the DSE sub connectors but I want this car to be solid! I'll look into doing both the stitch welds and the convertible floor pans. The car will find its way onto a track and I plan on driving it like I stole it (the only way I know how to drive a sports car/bike unless the kiddo is in the car) but I know that the suspension can get as expensive as I want it to be so my question is does the high end front suspension make as big of a difference when Im still planning on running leaf springs in the back?
68TTT
05-09-2012, 07:49 PM
Engine bay wiring harness and front clip are now gone. Time to get the old DA out and a red scotch bright pad and clean up the firewall and subframe. Starting to zero in on a paint color/scheme.
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68TTT
05-13-2012, 11:15 AM
All electrical components are now out of the car. Going to use American autowire kit. Does anyone have any advice on this kit and if there is a problem using it with a power window kit? Which power window kit works best for you guys? Needing tips please, are the power window kits worth it? And the painless no key push button kit (the wife wanted me to do that one)? Is there any issue using that kit with a carbureted engine? I thought long and hard about doing an ls3 but I still love the sound a 4 barrel carb at wide open throttle.
WICKED_SS
05-13-2012, 11:59 AM
Moving right along! I used the American Autowire Kit on my 67. I dont have power windows but the kit is one of the best! real easy to install and step by step instructions.... You are in good hands with that kit! Good luck!
All electrical components are now out of the car. Going to use American autowire kit. Does anyone have any advice on this kit and if there is a problem using it with a power window kit? Which power window kit works best for you guys? Needing tips please, are the power window kits worth it? And the painless no key push button kit (the wife wanted me to do that one)? Is there any issue using that kit with a carbureted engine? I thought long and hard about doing an ls3 but I still love the sound a 4 barrel carb at wide open throttle.
BMR Sales
05-14-2012, 12:34 PM
The car looks great and the project sounds even better...... PM sent:twothumbs
68TTT
05-14-2012, 05:37 PM
Making progress. Thanks for the input Wicked. And BMR, I'll be looking into your kit.
I already have my vintage air kit, engine block and my AFR heads.
Sometimes I look at the car and think I'm never going to get done and other times I look at it and think "this isn't so hard." What I want most out of this build is a car that doesn't have the rattles and sloppy feel that old cars always have.
Does anyone have any opinions on using full size body mounts vs half size?
I know this post is 4 completely different thoughts. It's hard to type as fast as this project has my head spinning...
BMR Sales
05-15-2012, 07:33 AM
Making progress. Thanks for the input Wicked. And BMR, I'll be looking into your kit.
Here is a install article that Super Chevy did a few years back:
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/chassis/suspension_steering/sucp_0905_first_gen_camaro_watts_link_torque_arm_i nstall/index.html
Here is a VERY informative tech article written by our R&D manager explaining what it does:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/chassis/suspension_steering/1206chp_torque_arm_suspension_systems/index.html
Your kit looks very nice. I've read a lot on the DSE kits and the TVS kits but I don't know that much about yours. Are there any builds on the forum where your system was used?
Please take a look at the link below for a member here who installed our rear suspension with a Ford 9 in. in his 73 Firebird, the 10/12 bolt GM kit is virtually the same other than the manner in which it bolts to the differential.
https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?80483-BMR-Torque-Arm-Installed-on-my-73-Firebird/page2&highlight=TORQUE+ARM
Here is a picture of our full suspension installed on a 69 Camaro with our bolt-on subframe connectors:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/Lashway69Camaro1-1.jpg
68TTT
05-15-2012, 03:46 PM
From what I understand, to run 275's up front I will need to notch the frame, but I'm not sure. I read the buildup on the '73 and he was talking about putting 275s on the front. Do you know if I could do such a wheel without cutting the frame?
68TTT
05-15-2012, 05:49 PM
Sanding... Sanding... And more sanding. Almost have the floor pan clean enough to seal. At that point in the project where everything seems to be moving in slow motion. I'm ready (in my head) to start ordering parts but I an running out of room in the garage fast. I need to sell a my sport bike to help fund this project and to make room in the garage. Anyone looking for a clean 2008 Honda cbr1000rr??
BMR Sales
05-16-2012, 06:34 AM
Sanding is one of those things that almost takes on a theraputic aspect, but boring as it gets! Good luck on the CBR..... too bad you have to sell it.
You can run a 275 tire on a 10" wheel when you buy the Ride Tech Tru Turn kit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ART-11169500/
68TTT
05-16-2012, 08:45 PM
Thanks Rich. Im still looking over all the options out there. Its so hard to pick one with no hands on feel of the systems.
BMR Sales
05-17-2012, 05:04 AM
Thanks Rich. Im still looking over all the options out there. Its so hard to pick one with no hands on feel of the systems.
Completely understood.... we will be at Columbus Goodguys this year with our complete suspension display if you are going stop bye and take a look!
LeighP
05-17-2012, 05:58 AM
If you're thinking about reducing the floor to subframe clearance with shorter solid body mounts, just check the clearance you have for the gearbox crossmember....I recall I couldn't get the crossmember into my 67 Firebird when I was mocking things up because the rubber mounts were old and compressed...I had to loosen the mount bolt off.....you might need to provide some floor clearance where the crossmember sits.
68TTT
05-17-2012, 02:28 PM
If you're thinking about reducing the floor to subframe clearance with shorter solid body mounts, just check the clearance you have for the gearbox crossmember....I recall I couldn't get the crossmember into my 67 Firebird when I was mocking things up because the rubber mounts were old and compressed...I had to loosen the mount bolt off.....you might need to provide some floor clearance where the crossmember sits.
My existing body mounts are completly crushed! The transmission tunnel clearance has been my biggest concern when choosing the 1/2 height body mounts but I was hoping to keep as much ground clearance as possible and still nail the stance with 18" wheels. Thanks for the input, I need all the advice I can get.
And Rich, I will have to look into making time to make it to the goodguys event. That sounds like a good time anyhow.
68TTT
05-19-2012, 08:06 AM
Welder is comming over today to help fix some things I found under the carpet where is looks like someone used a 1/2" punch to make a hole to run a wire!?! About to start grinding down the firewall. After this I will drop the front clip and clean it up and hopefully have a new front suspension on the way! Then send the car to paint.
68TTT
05-19-2012, 06:48 PM
interior and firewall are sanded down! found some body damage to the lower right cowl. shouldnt be a hard fix. had the body and paint guy over to give it a once over. no real rust and no panels that need to be replaced short of the lower right cowl. should be selling the motorcycle next week to fund the suspension and brakes! Getting excited about ordering parts in finally. fighting the temptation to drain the savings account and have everything done at the local hotrod shop, but i think that might be a bad idea.
so here's a question for anyone who knows...
spindles, do i need to replace them or can i use the factory drum brake units? I am leaning really hard no towards the BMR setup front and rear but I know their kit does not include shocks or front steering components. anyone using the DSE front kit with the BMR torque arm setup?
BMR Sales
05-21-2012, 07:04 AM
so here's a question for anyone who knows...
spindles, do i need to replace them or can i use the factory drum brake units? I am leaning really hard no towards the BMR setup front and rear but I know their kit does not include shocks or front steering components. anyone using the DSE front kit with the BMR torque arm setup?
I highly recommend calling Tobin @ Kore 3 brakes. He will be able to set you up with a great package for the drum brake spindles that should meet your needs and budget.
As for front steering parts, I highly recommend calling the guys at Proforged for those:
http://proforged.ecomm-search.com/nav/Make-CHEVROLET--Model-CAMARO--Year-1968--redirected-1
BTW: Are you still thinking of going with a wide wheel up front?
68TTT
05-21-2012, 08:37 AM
Thanks for the info Rich. As for the wide front tires, I would love to have a setup that I could run 275's all the way around on wheels that have the same back spacing so I can rotate the tires and such. I also like the way a 275 looks on the front of an older car. But I am concerned about turning radius and rubbing on the front without notching the frame or swapping it out. This car will see almost daily street duty with a few track days any chance I get.
BMR Sales
05-21-2012, 10:28 AM
To run 275's up front on a stock subframe you will need to run the Ridetech Tru Turn which comes with its own spindle. You should still be able to get a killer brake package from Kore3 for the RideTech spindle.
68TTT
05-21-2012, 04:51 PM
To run 275's up front on a stock subframe you will need to run the Ridetech Tru Turn which comes with its own spindle. You should still be able to get a killer brake package from Kore3 for the RideTech spindle.
That looks like a killer system. I now just need to workout the details on how to run the same backspacing on the rear. Any ideas?
68TTT
05-26-2012, 07:26 AM
I don't even know why I bother to make plans... I'm just going to change them in the end! IE= was going to run a nice 5 speed but now it's looking more like a 6 speed will be the choice which then led me to the thought, "if I'm going to have a modern trans, I guess I will need a modern engine." all this thinking will eventually break my bank account.
68TTT
05-29-2012, 05:55 PM
After a few phone calls with Frank at Prodigy Customs I have it narrowed down to a full RideTech setup with the truturn system. I will run a 2" wider rear axle to match the front back spacing so I can run the same wheels and tires all the way around. I will be able to rotate the tires and carry a full size spare. http://www.forgeline.com/products/performance-series-step-lip/so3-17-18.html
Prodigy 418ci 600hp with FI and a t56 will be a lot of fun!
68TTT
06-02-2012, 04:50 PM
Sold the Honda motorcycle today. Planning on ordering a ton of parts next week. Suspension will be up first!
68TTT
06-09-2012, 06:12 PM
Cut out some bad stuff today. Pleased with the results given this was the first time I have ever performed surgery on a car. Plans have changed again, looks like mini-tubs are and 18x12" rear wheels will be in the works. My welder friend wishes I didn't want to do it, but a case of miller lite will make him feel better about it.
LeighP
06-10-2012, 12:13 AM
When you said you found some rust in the cowl, I thought you were just going to patch a couple of spots....lol.
68TTT
06-10-2012, 04:02 AM
When you said you found some rust in the cowl, I thought you were just going to patch a couple of spots....lol.
Lol! Truth is I really just want to have a new way at looking at the interior...
That area was crushed in like it had been wrecked. The car is very straight and has almost no rust and no one would have ever know that the cowl was crushed in but me. But it would have driven me nuts knowing that it was hiding under a fender. Stupid OCD!
Tango68SS
06-10-2012, 11:13 AM
68TTT,
...been there...done that!! But once you are thru the looking glass, it is all worth it 'cause you know your car is rock solid!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
68TTT
06-10-2012, 12:35 PM
68TTT,
...been there...done that!! But once you are thru the looking glass, it is all worth it 'cause you know your car is rock solid!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Thanks for the reassurance. I know it's worth it. New air hammer with a spot weld cutter will make the tubs easier to cut out.
BMR Sales
06-11-2012, 06:23 AM
I had a 68 a few years ago that had a smashed tulip panel too...... looks great and I think you will be happy with the new direction of wider wheels out back.
68TTT
06-11-2012, 08:19 PM
I had a 68 a few years ago that had a smashed tulip panel too...... looks great and I think you will be happy with the new direction of wider wheels out back.
I think you are right. I just really didn't want to cut it up that much, but now that I've started with the cutting I might as well do everything else that needs it. And some more rubber on the road is really what I'm after.
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