Anyone take issue with exhaust under the axle?

[INTMD8]

I'm at the point in my exhaust fabrication where I need to make a decision on (literally) what direction to go.

Over the axle in the traditional manner will not work with this RS chassis, the rearend goes so high up there is just no room between it and the sway bar.

I could bring the pipes clear up and over the frame rails to the outside of the car but it would be very tight and several complex bends. Scroll down to see a pic of the area it would fit through, then it would follow the underside of the frame rail until I could turn it to the outside behind the tire.

From the point the exhaust passes through the rear crossmember the pipes would actually angle upwards to go under the rearend at full droop (pictured). There's about 5in rear suspension travel so only 2.5in max droop from ride height. At that point they need to go under the rear frame rails anyway as the exhaust exits the car on the outside of the rails.

Seems to me like going under the axle is the logical move. Would be very similar to this car- http://www.roadstershop.com/completed-projects/don-s-57-convertible ...except mine would have the mufflers actually rotated so the outlet was higher than the inlet.

Any opinions on this? Where I'm at so far-

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/eldoradobrougham311-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/eldoradobrougham313-1.jpg
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Level picture taken with rearend extended fully down-
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/eldoradobrougham315-1.jpg

Area between frame and floor exhaust could possibly route through-
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/eldoradobrougham317-1.jpg

Area behind wheel is original muffler location and where the exhaust must terminate-
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/eldoradobrougham316-1.jpg

[peices of eight...]

sounds like it should work, I tried this on a 73 lemans with stock springs cut, worked well until I hit the brakes hard and some bumps at the same time.
It bent my tail pipes a bit and cracked a weld, I'm sure you won't get on the same roads I did. Lol . how much suspensiion travel do you have at full droop ?
The only other problem I had was on the hoist (the exhaust was trying holding up the rearend) I used limiting straps to fix the problem. Really cool build, very classy car ! by the way love that 87 toyota 4runner or pickup in the pick looks in good shape!

[dontlifttoshift]

It takes a really tall tire to maintain enough clearance under the exhaust at full suspension compression when routing tail pipes under the axle.

I can't tell from the pics why you can't go over.

[INTMD8]

Like I was saying, the pipes would go upwards from the point they pass through the rear frame crossmember (so they would not be anywhere near the lowest part of the car).

They won't fit between the rearend and sway bar at full compression.

They would fit between the frame and floor pan but maybe have 1/4 inch clearance all around. Would need to run nearly solid mounting to not get rattles on the frame/floor.

[dontlifttoshift]

If they are not the lowest part of the car all aired out and you are okay with the look then do it. You will never ever see them hanging there under on that car.

[Z06vet]

I ran mine under the axle. You cant see them from behind at all & they have never hit anything. The rear axle will rest on the pipes at full drop (on lift or jacked up). I used a band clamp so I can remove the axle from the muffler if needed. The only time I have had to remove the pipes is to remove the shocks- I needed to let the rear end drop a bit more to relieve the tension on shocks. I know this isnt ideal, but it was better than the way I had the tailpipes routed over the axle initially. Had to go to 2.25" pipe & some tight bends. Car ran & sounded better with the 2.5" run pipes under the axle. Scott

[INTMD8]

So I decided to waste a bunch of stainless just to see how it would lay out going over the frame. Complete pain to build as everything is rather tight. Couple of problems.

1- Using up all the real estate I planned on using for the rear heat and a/c lines/hoses/ducts.

2- Such a convoluted pipe that I can't remove it without taking the body off the frame. I could try to add another V-band outboard of the frame but that increase in OD would take up any clearance I currently have.

I'm going to think on it a bit but it just is making more sense to go under the axle IMO. Last pic is me holding a pipe in the position it would be under the axle. (axle in that pic is at mid-travel and would have 1/8in clearance to the pipe at full sag).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/eldoradobrougham320-1.jpg
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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/eldoradobrougham328-1.jpg

[INTMD8]

Well I didn't like the previous exhaust routing and I wanted to use that open area above the frame for the rear a/c ducting and lines.

I decided to go under the axle with the exhaust. In the pics you will see how it looks with the rearend at full sag. There is 5.5in total rear suspension travel, the pics with the stand under the rearend is at the half way point. At that point the lower control arms are still lower than the exhaust system.

Pictured from the rear the fuel tank blocks the view of most of it. At nearly ground level you can see the pipes and rear axle but overall I like the way it looks and am very happy with the way it's going. Next will be mounting the mufflers and making the rest of the exhaust hangers.

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