200-4R lock-up control

[Tony_SS]

I have a Bowtie Overdrives 200-4R. It locks up right after it shifts into OD. And to disengage the lockup, the wiring is run to the brake switch.. The brake turns off the lockup. This is pretty annoying when driving in 30-50mph stop and go traffic... its ends up 'lugging' if I keep it in OD.

I thought of 2 solutions... either wire up a toggle switch that keeps the lock up off until I'm on the hwy and ready for it OR wire up a vacuum switch that turns off the lockup under higher vacuum conditions.. i.e. no lockup under acceleration to avoid lugging.

What is everyone else doing?

[quarterbooty]

I'm using the Bowler lock-up module, and it works as advertised. Approximately 8 seconds after 4th gear, the converter locks up. I also have it wired through the brake switch to unlock, but it will lock back up 8 seconds later. My experience is essentially the same as yours. At speeds less than 70mph (2200 rpm), it will lug. I plan to add a toggle switch for the near term, but I'm thinking about the speed adjustable B&M unit (http://www.jegs.com/i/B-M/130/70244/10002/-1?parentProductId=) as a potential permanent fix.

[sam 74]

everyone i know uses a toggle, simple and effective.

[Tony_SS]

Does this look correct?

Above is how it's currently set up... below is the lighted switch I'll be adding...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/bd4-1.jpg

[dontlifttoshift]

I think the 200 used a vacuum switch stock. I like the vacuum switch option as it will unlock under high load situation like hills and passing cars. If you have a high stall convertor you can really feel it come in and out of lock up....it's like having another gear. We have used them on 700s as well.

We have suceesfully used the Bowler timer setup as well, it unlocks with the brakes and with a downshift as it also runs through a 4th gear pressure port.

The problem with a toggle is if you forget to lock it up you are creating an enormus amount of unnecessary heat in the trans when cruising.

[Tony_SS]

I don't think I'd forget to lock it up.. running 3.73's and a higher stall.. I can definitely tell when it isnt locked up on the hwy. But I do prefer the vacuum switch over the kill switch.

The only aftermarket vacuum switch I found is a TCI one here (http://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/CMP3766B/10002/-1?parentProductId=748599). I read that if vacuum goes above 7.5 then it cycles off, so that the lockup would disengage when cruising, going up a hill, passing etc.. but it would/could also work together with the brake switch...

So I'm not sure just which route to go...

[Tony_SS]

I'm using the Bowler lock-up module, and it works as advertised. Approximately 8 seconds after 4th gear, the converter locks up. I also have it wired through the brake switch to unlock, but it will lock back up 8 seconds later. My experience is essentially the same as yours. At speeds less than 70mph (2200 rpm), it will lug. I plan to add a toggle switch for the near term, but I'm thinking about the speed adjustable B&M unit (http://www.jegs.com/i/B-M/130/70244/10002/-1?parentProductId=) as a potential permanent fix.

Everywhere I read that the Bowler setup is nice, but they still end up installing a toggle anyway??

I can't do the B&M kit as I wont be running a speedo cable, I have a GPS speedometer.

[dontlifttoshift]

Don't use that TCI switch, we had a bunch of problems with those not actually switching when they are supposed to. There is a factory GM part number floating somewhere on the intrawebs that works quite well. I'll dig and see if I can find a part number for you.....14014519 for the vacuum switch.

Good info in here http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/carburetors/492891-tcc-control.html

[Tony_SS]

Yes, I'm reading that about the TCI vacuum switch too.

Awesome, thanks for that # and link.

[Tony_SS]

I'm reading a lot of people who didn't have luck with a vacuum switch too...

""Dealers have them - like you said they're expensive - I paid about $40 for the vacuum switch and another $30 for the stupid pigtail for it (which is ONLY available from dealer). I tried it - didn't work well for me with TCC lockup. Seems to lock converter too earlier, and car just drives funny with it locked from the vacuum switch. So I gave up on vacuum lock, and just use a toggle to lock it manually when I'm on the highway.""

[Tony_SS]

Don't use that TCI switch, we had a bunch of problems with those not actually switching when they are supposed to.

I'm reading where a lot of people gave up and didn't even know they were adjustable too...

Here's one guy who had success..

""Chuck,

Got lucky and could insert the allen wrench without drilling. Took 4 each 1/8 way around turns and test drove after each turn. When I got to the 3rd, started getting the "business". The last 1/8 turn did the trick and its operating perfectly, or at least to my satisfaction.

THANKS AGAIN to everyone! CT rocks!

Randy ""

[Tony_SS]

This guy found a good solution

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126192

[sam 74]

thats a pretty good way around the problem, i think when i switch out to a 200r4 i'm going to look into a manual VB to avoid the issue all together.

[dontlifttoshift]

This for the win.... http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126192

We have adjusted that TCI switch a hundred different ways and couldn't make them work to our satisfaction.

3 pedals man, shifts exactly how you want it to EVERY single time ;-)

[Tony_SS]

This for the win.... http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126192

We have adjusted that TCI switch a hundred different ways and couldn't make them work to our satisfaction.

3 pedals man, shifts exactly how you want it to EVERY single time ;-)

Yep I posted that link and joined their forum to ask a couple questions to him... I won't be getting that TCI switch either..

I wish 3 pedals was an options for me now.. maybe some day in the future though!

[yaww]

Check this, may help, i have the same:
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/sch/eBay-Motors-/6000/i.html?_sac=1&_nkw=dd144


I have a Bowtie Overdrives 200-4R. It locks up right after it shifts into OD. And to disengage the lockup, the wiring is run to the brake switch.. The brake turns off the lockup. This is pretty annoying when driving in 30-50mph stop and go traffic... its ends up 'lugging' if I keep it in OD.

I thought of 2 solutions... either wire up a toggle switch that keeps the lock up off until I'm on the hwy and ready for it OR wire up a vacuum switch that turns off the lockup under higher vacuum conditions.. i.e. no lockup under acceleration to avoid lugging.

What is everyone else doing?

[Tony_SS]

To cap this thread off, I installed a simple lighted switch from my diagram I posted. I drive with the switch off, when I hit the highway I just toggle it on, a blue LED lights up and I know it's active. If I forget and keep it on when I exit, no harm done.

[HELLCAMINO]

I run a pull on push off switch on the left side of my dash for my 700r4 to lock up. I have it wired to the brake switch as well.....no problems.