Quick question about TruTurn

[Vicinity]

Since I'm having such a big problem with the Baer kit (which I don't want to change from how I bought it, or I can't return it in the event it doesn't solve my issue), I'm considering the TruTurn, I'm pretty sure I understand how it works, the bumpsteer is corrected at the drag link, rather than the outer tie rod. But are the steering arms the length of the shortest ones? Or what size are they? If they are that eliminates me needing a set of Z28 arms. I'm looking at the one without the spindles. I'd be keeping my stock spindles.

[makoshark]

Give Ridetech a call. They will gladly answer all your questions. They have one of the best customer services in the business

[onair]

Vicinity, the Z/28 arm is 5 1/4" from the balljoint centerline to the tierod center line. The stock long manual arm is 6" from the ball jont center line to the tierod centerline. The steering arm we use on the Tru-Turn is 5 11/16" from the balljoint centerline to the tierod center line, so we are right in between the two. Hope this helps.

Mako, Thank you for the kind words.

Rodney

[Vicinity]

Rodney, that's helps a lot. Just out of curiosity, why did you guys decide to use that length as opposed to the shortest arm? Isn't the shorter arm supposed to speed up turning (changing the ratio)? Would it hurt the system (Tru Turn) to use a short arm or is it preferred to use the arm with the set?

[onair]

The factory arms will not work with the Tru-Turn. One one of the reasons we move the inner trierods up is because we move the outer tierods up for wheel clearance. If you try to run the raised inner tie rod setup with Stock steering arms it will mess the bumpsteer up.

[Vicinity]

The factory arms will not work with the Tru-Turn. One one of the reasons we move the inner trierods up is because we move the outer tierods up for wheel clearance. If you try to run the raised inner tie rod setup with Stock steering arms it will mess the bumpsteer up.

Oooo, thank you, that's exactly what I needed to know. Looks like I'll be shopping for a Tru Turn setup here shortly. Thanks again.

[BuzzKillian]

I'm looking at the one without the spindles. I'd be keeping my stock spindles.

I'm not real sure on this...Maybe Rodney will correct me... but I don't think you want to run stock spindles with the Tru Turn. The bump steer correction is good... IMO The increased Camber curve with the taller spindle is the greater benefit to handling.

[Vicinity]

I'm not real sure on this...Maybe Rodney will correct me... but I don't think you want to run stock spindles with the Tru Turn. The bump steer correction is good... IMO The increased Camber curve with the taller spindle is the greater benefit to handling.

I can't run Ridetech's spindles because of the 2 inch drop. I have Hotchkis Springs on all 4 corners, and with the width of tire I have up front, that drop will mean I have to chop up my fenders.

If I *have* to run taller spindles, I'll just get tall balljoints, but currently, I'm just thinking I'll buy L&H or ATS when the money falls in my lap.

[David Pozzi]

The True Turn outer arms are like Chevelle front steer arms, - much higher and slightly longer than Camaro short arms. The turn ratio will be fine if you have a 12 to 1 box and the long pitman arm. ATS spindles have 1" drop.
David

[MrQuick]

....also the arm is raised a bit which puts the arm closer to the wheel horizontal center line, opening up a lot of room.

[Vicinity]

The True Turn outer arms are like Chevelle front steer arms, - much higher and slightly longer than Camaro short arms. The turn ratio will be fine if you have a 12 to 1 box and the long pitman arm. ATS spindles have 1" drop.
David

I was not aware of this, I may have to go with the L&H then..