Wilwood Brake Suggestions

[SkinsandJrfan]

Hey guys. Rookie here when it comes to this stuff so Im looking for some help. Im getting nowhere with my research. Im looking to put brakes on my 68 Camaro. It has a 10 bolt rear end. Came with multileaf springs but has since been changed to a 4 link. It is hard for me to decipher which set up I need. I installed an aftermarket subframe up front with 4 pinston willwood brakes on it so something 4 piston would be ideal. Getting some help would be great.

Thanks in advance.
Brian

[ProdigyCustoms]

The 12 bolt kits you see listed, will fit you car and is 140-7141 12.19", (4) piston Dynalite and Internal E Brake, sooth rotors. 140-7141-D is the drilled version. We have both in stock

[Apogee]

Hey guys. Rookie here when it comes to this stuff so Im looking for some help. Im getting nowhere with my research. Im looking to put brakes on my 68 Camaro. It has a 10 bolt rear end. Came with multileaf springs but has since been changed to a 4 link. It is hard for me to decipher which set up I need. I installed an aftermarket subframe up front with 4 pinston willwood brakes on it so something 4 piston would be ideal. Getting some help would be great.

Thanks in advance.
Brian

Brian, can you be more specific about which "4-piston" Wilwood front kit you're running? They make a few 4-piston kits for your application, ranging from the dinky drag-specific kits all the way up to Superlite and W4A 4-piston setups. Knowing what you have up front would be the first step in determining what you might consider running in the rear IMHO.

Tobin
KORE3

[SkinsandJrfan]

I bought the subframe with the brakes on it. It is a Heidts frame. Based on what they sell with their subframes (from my research) I have figured they are DF-221-B - 11" Wilwood Smooth Rotors & 4 Piston Black Calipers. I know for a fact that I have smooth rotors with the black 4 piston calipers. Therefore, I am assuming these are the ones that I have up front.

[SkinsandJrfan]

I guess I should say that I bought the subframe USED with the brakes on it.

[ProdigyCustoms]

So that is indeed a Dynalite set up in the front. I kinda figured it was a Dynalite as Wilwood does not make 4 piston Superlite front kits for first gens.

So the 140-7141 is the part number you need and I would consider upgrading the front to 12.19 also. It is about $450 in parts to make the 11" kit a 12.19" kit.

[SkinsandJrfan]

Frank,

I am ashamed to say that I went the cheap route with my rear brakes when I could have spent just $200 more to get this set. The ones that I have are single piston. They are dragging on me after warming up. I also have a whicked vibration in 2nd, 3rd and 4th hears but not in 5th nor in nuetral. It only seems to happen under load. Would dragging brakes cause this vibration?

Everything in the drivetrain in the same that I had in it before with no vibration. The only different is the U joints. I changed those before putting it back together.

Thanks

[ProdigyCustoms]

If the rear brakes are dragging they will usually let you know but dragging tighter and tighter till they bring you to a stop.

I doubt what your desrciging is brakes, especially since it is gear selection related

[Apogee]

...Everything in the drivetrain in the same that I had in it before with no vibration. The only different is the U joints. I changed those before putting it back together.

You could have a tight u-joint, either too tight on the u-bolts/straps or not installed properly into the yokes. Did both joints move freely when installed?

Tobin
KORE3

[WilwoodDiscBrakes]

Glad to hear you are running our brakes Brian. For a quick response I will point you to our website. For your custom set-up you can search Brake Kits by Rear End / Axle Flange: http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitApp.aspx. If you are still trying to figure it out give our sales / tech guys a call (805) 388-1188. If you call; arm yourself with all your metrics so we can better help you: stock or custom master cylinder and what size? / brake booster? / Inside diameter of the wheels you want to run…

[SkinsandJrfan]

Both U joints were replaced. My mechanic and I checked them again this evening and he states that the U joints seem fine and that the drive shaft is properly installed.

We changed the proportional valve this evening as well from a nonadjustable to a speedway adjustable one. The first test trip and they were still dragging after using the brakes several times. Upon returning to the garage, they were so tight that the car was unable to be pushed while in neutral. It also seems that the vibration gets worse as the brakes get tighter. After a few minutes of setting, the car was able to be rolled freely. It seems that after it sets and the pressure is released (how I dont know) from the calipers, they release the rotors and act normal. I have attached a picture of the MC and powerbooster set up that I am running. My mechanic and I believe that it is either the MC not allowing the fluid to return to the MC which is preventing the calipers from releasing the rotors or the brake kit that I am running is just not going to work which is everything else is working properly, one would think that they would. Any more help would be greatly appreciated.

[SkinsandJrfan]

Here is another pic.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Souns like your brake pedal is holding pressure on your master cylinder. Make sure you have a little free play at the top of the pedal.

[Vegas69]

I believe a stock master cylinder set up requires a pedal return spring.

[sr73bu]

Just skimmed through this, If your rear brakes are dragging it seems like a Prop valve issue. The adjustable Valve should have corrected your issue, especially if you were using the disc/drum prop valve before, which keeps some pressure on the rear drums.

Try adjusting it to almost completely front bias and work back from there to see if the rears stop locking on you... it will take some tuning to get perfect.

I'm not a pro on brakes, but this is a similar problem I helped a friend correct recently.

-Sean

[MCB Matt]

Its prob. Pedal free play? What prop valve are you running or is it just a "T" for the front and through the adj prop to the rear? Are the rear calipers shimmed correctly? All of our new single piston rear kits come with shims to dial in caliper to rotor clearances...

Matt