Cage help

[BuddyP]

Well got ahead of myself when getting the cage welded in before having seats. Unfortunatly I'm 6'-4 and to be decently comfortable here is where I need my seat....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif


So now the question is, would it be best for me to notch the bottom of the hoop, cut it free at the top and angle it back or cut the hoop free completely and move it straight back? The base plates that it is welded to on the bottom would allow me to move back another 4"-5" further at the base.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[LowFast]

Sorry, no anwser but I do want to hear others opinions.

[sgernon]

Sounds like something I would do, I am always getting ahead of myself. I'm no cage expert but everything I've heard says if you want a solid cage you need a continuous hoop. I would be very nervous to notch it. If it was me I would try cutting it off the floor plates an moving the whole thing back. If you lose a lot of tubing when you cut it you could always double your floor plates to make up the height.

[Poopy]

Cut it free and move it back, not that much work. I'm 6' and have long legs so my seats are always pretty far back, here is how mine ended up in relation to the b-pillar:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/be682985-1.jpg

[James OLC]

Cut it free at the base and move it back as much as you need to. Build he base plates if you have to make up some space. Most rules state you have to be seated within 6" of the hoop so give yourself some room - double check that the doesn't rub when you are sitting in it.

[19,69camaro]

I agree what everyone else has said. Another reason to cut it and move it straight back is it still be parallel with your quarter glass. Maybe its my OCD kicking in but I hate when a cage is very visible from the outside.

Other than that the cage looks like it turned out great. Did you buy a kit or make it?

[BuddyP]

Almost got it cut out tonight. Need to get another cutting wheel for the sidegrinder tomorrow.

It was a Alston kit that I had fit and installed by a shop locally.

Thanks for the input guys!

[Poopy]

Not the safest for rookies, but I run a 7" cutting disk on a 5" grinder with no guard....and always a face shield, but its great for cutting cages apart.

[BuddyP]

Yeah, have a 7" and 4.5" grinder.... them shields are nothing but a nuisance.

Got it all cut out and prepped to put back in today. Have my part done, now just need to get it welded in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[sccacuda]

How tight are you to the roof skin? I'm not 6'-4", but 6'-1" and these pony cars get tight! I cut through the floor to lower the cage for welding and this allowed me to put the cage against the roof skin. I welded tabs to the roof brace to completely tie everything together. I plan to have the headliner cover the top of the main hoop. I gained another 1-1/2" by lowering seat tracks. That made a HUGE gain. My helmet is about 2" from the hoop now. Got to be careful how far you move the hoop in relation to your helmet and stay legal.

[BuddyP]

It's not tight to the roof. The hoop will be below the headliner. the seat in the car now is lowered as far as the bracket can go.

[sccacuda]

It's not tight to the roof. The hoop will be below the headliner. the seat in the car now is lowered as far as the bracket can go.

Looking at where the down bars are in relation to the B-pillar, it looks like that cage could go up a ton. You can drop it down to weld, put the headliner in and then suck it up tight to the headliner and weld the bottom. Looks like you'd gain 2" or so. Tight cages look better anyway.

[BuddyP]

That above pic is deceaving. The down bars would be welding into the lower part of the hood radius (if that makes sense). I like the idea of waiting until last for welding the bottom.

But still more issues with this thing. Extremly frusterating, now that I have the bar back to where I am comfortable sitting in the seat and still have enough room from head to cage, the rear window roll up handles would interfere with the cage... Now looks like I need to have the uprights on the hoop bent so that the bottom of the uprights are straight then the top of the hoop tapers back to the down bars..... this is rediculas.

This along with many other build issues lately, I can see why people sell their builds half way through, I'm not too far away myself.

[BuddyP]

damn double post

[Poopy]

Isn't custom fun!

[BuddyP]

No! lol

[Poopy]

Hahahahah......sometimes I say to myself why the hell didn't I just go buy a Subaru and bolt on some coilovers and some fancy wheels and be done with it.

[SRD art]

Hahahahah......sometimes I say to myself why the hell didn't I just go buy a Subaru and bolt on some coilovers and some fancy wheels and be done with it.

Because anybody can do that. Not everybody can work magic with a cutoff wheel and a welder. ;)

[Poopy]

I know, I know.... lol.

[MrQuick]

electric windows..... actually most of my cars didn't have rear cranks. I'd lock the windows up and remove the regulaters. No one could ever get the glass back up with out boogering up the rear window seal. Pissed me off.