1976 Trans Am Resto-Mod

[ryeguy2006a]

My name is Ryan, And I bought my 1976 Trans Am when I was a Junior in High School (Spring 2005). I first went to look at this car with my friend because my uncle was interested in the car. He said this was too much of a project for him, but I couldn't get the car out of my head. (And that's when I caught the fever for Pontiac's) So I convinced my dad that I could do this project and for him to loan me the money. Eventually he was convinced, and we came home with a brand new to me 1976 Trans Am 400 4 speed.

Now this car was 100% complete when I got the car. My dad told me that I couldn't touch the car until I completely paid him back. I worked so hard during the summer and finally paid him off. That following Saturday I decided to do a full frame off restoration, and little did I know what I had gotten myself into. This is where I started that Saturday afternoon.

When I first started working on this project I was going for more of an original restoration, but have changed where I want to take the project. I have been on this site for a while now, and decided to take more of a resto-mod direction for my car. I want to keep the car's original feel, but update it with all of the modern conveniences.


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[ryeguy2006a]

As you can see the car needed a lot of rust repair, although it wasn't too badly rusted. It was isolated mostly to the lower quarter panels and a few sections of the floor pans. I put new quarter skins on both sides and put new floor pan patch panels from Goodmark.

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[ryeguy2006a]

I cleaned up the rear end and put it under the car and got some primer on the shell.

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Once that was done, I cleaned up and rebuilt the front sub-frame with all new bushings and ball joints and put it under the car. I sand blasted the A-arms and painted them with POR 15 along with the frame.

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[LeighP]

Hey, mate...nice to see your build thread over here. :)

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks, Leigh. I was thinking that since my build has become more of a Resto-mod, I should put it over here too.

[ryeguy2006a]

Once I got the car on 4 wheels it was time to start the body work on the car. My dad and I worked to get the car into primer and get the car prepped for paint. I was able to get some rust free doors and fenders. The rest of the parts that came with the car were in good shape so they didn't need to be replaced.

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I wanted to remove the rear window because I thought that there may be some rust in the channel and I was glad that I removed it because there was some in there. Nothing was through so I cleaned it up and got it primed.
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[ryeguy2006a]

Once the Shell was in primer it was time to get the other body parts into primer.

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The one door had a little rot, so we grafted some metal from another door that I had that was in poor condition and sealed it all up making sure that everything was square and straight.

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Once the doors were dry we mounted them on the shell to see how the fit. We were happy with the way that they fit with all of the gaps being symmetrical.

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[ryeguy2006a]

Once the doors were hung and on the car it was time to do the rest of the body panels. We started with the fenders, then worked our way to the hood and trunk lid.

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Then we worked on the hood.

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And the deck lid. There were a lot of dents so I had to fill them in and make them smooth. Took more time than I thought.

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[ryeguy2006a]

Here was my first attempt at going more towards a resto-mod. I got a good deal on some BMW rims, but ended up selling them as they weren't in as good of condition as I originally thought. They were Staggered 19x8.5 front and 19x9.5 rear. It just never really fit the car, so I got rid of them.

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[ryeguy2006a]

The engine that I am using is a 1973 Pontiac 400 that has been mildly rebuilt. It has been bored .030 with TRW postions, stock rods and crank. The heads are 6x-8 and an aluminum Edelbrock P4B intake. I have several pictures of the various carbs that I have run on my car, when I finally settled on a Holley 750 DP.

Here is what I started with
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All cleaned up and ready for some paint.
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Painted Pontiac Blue, if you look closesly you can see the cross hatches from the rebore.
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All cleaned up and back in the car.
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Here is my engine with the stock quadra-jet.
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And with the 600 Edelbrock carb,
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with the 850 Holley DP race carb, Way too much for this engine.
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And finally I settled with the 750 DP

Here is a picture of the Borg Warner Super T-10 all cleaned up too.

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[ryeguy2006a]

I also upgraded to cooling fans from a 1999 Camaro LS1, and used a home build relay box with dual sensors to control each fan.

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I cleaned all the brackets up and painted them with POR15. I also put on the rest of my engine accessories.

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I mounted the relay box where the charcoal canister used to be on the core support.

[ryeguy2006a]

Now we are off to the paint shop!! The car was primed with high build primer and blocked roughtly 7-10 time to ensure it was super smooth. Then I had my body guy lay down 3 coats of Ford 2010 Dark Shadow Gray paint. That was followed with 3-4 coats of Clear for that deep finish. I also had them paint my dash and rear trim panel with SEM Trim Black semi-gloss paint to replicate what it came with from the factory.

Well to my surprise one morning when I started to work on my car there was a hair line crack down the side of my quarter panel where the skin was put on and come to find out we didn't weld the skin on with the correct technique so it cracked. I took it to the body shop for them to repair and paint the car.

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Then the dash and rear deck panel got some color.

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Then some Dark Shadow Gray

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[ryeguy2006a]

Then a little wet sand and buffing.

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Once we got the car back it was time to assemble the car finally.

We got the car home finally and put the doors on and got the deck lid adjusted. After fighting with the doors for a while we were finally able to get them adjusted to my liking. Then I was able to get the front end on and took the car out for a photo shoot with my dad's 1971 Chevelle SS.

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And now the front end goes on.

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I also replaced the factory mesh for a honeycomb mesh. Eventually it will get painted body color.

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[ryeguy2006a]

And the photo shoot, with my Dad's Chevelle SS. Also here is a shot of my Custom Chromed Aluminum 17x8.5 rims. I got an awesome deal on them and couldn't pass them up. They are beautiful and the chrome is amazing. Gotta love Craigslist.

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[79-TA]

That car is looking really clean. Your attention to detail is really paying off. I like what you did with the honeycomb mesh in the side vents.

[ryeguy2006a]

I am still adding pictures to try and get the thread up to date currently. I have been working on the car for a long time. Thanks for the compliments. I will try and add some more pictures tonight.

[ryeguy2006a]

Next was time to put some interior back in. I had a parts car that had the 160 mph speedo, so I upgraded to that, and I already had the 8k tach. I also got a perfect dash, door panels, front and rear seats, and the headliner board. I was able to get a lot out of the parts car that saved me buying all of the parts individually. I also bought the dual speaker upgrade from NPD, Year One rear package tray, refurbished 8 track player, and an upgraded factory AM radio with all modern internals.

Before I laid down the carpet, I bought some Fat Mat insulation and put that on the floor pans up to the trunk.

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Here are the Speakers and the new speedo.

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Here is the Upgraded AM radio that I bought along with the fully rebuilt 8 track player.

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Here is the Year One rear package tray. I really like it compared to the factory package tray. I think that it really cleans up the rear of the car.

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[ryeguy2006a]

Here is some more of the Interior being installed. I put in the seats front and rear, along with all the interior plastics. I applied some smooth faux leather material for the headliner. It turned out great considering that I had never done anything like that before. There are also some pictures of the crack free dash that I found in the parts car I bought a long time ago.

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[ryeguy2006a]

The next obstacle was to get my exhaust done. I started with some Hooker competetion headers, and was unsure what I was going to run from there. I ended up finding a guy who was selling a custom 3" exhaust with SpinTech mufflers from a 2nd gen Firebird with custom 3" chrome tips that look factory. I bought it and started the intsalltion. Now what I thought would take me a weekend ended up taking me 5 weeks to get done working only on the weekends. I ended up having to cut a lot of the sections and welding/extending/contracting to make it fit the way I wanted to. Here are the pictures that I took along the way.

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Before I had the tips to mock up the rear tail pipes.

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Here are the massive 3" custom factory looking tail pipes. They are pictured with a CD to show you how massive they really are.

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And the tips installed and just peeking out.

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The completed exhaust hung.

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[ryeguy2006a]

I also decided that I wanted to black out the chrome trim around the car includding the door handles. I will eventually do the front grills and fog light bezels.

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Then I was able to get the rear of the car buttoned up.

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[ryeguy2006a]

And that brings us to about October 2011, when I made a huge mistake. I finally got the car tuned up and running very well. I wanted to take the car for a drive. I thought that I checked everything, but overlooked a small and fundamental area... my lug nuts. When I was pulling the car back into the driveway, the front wheel feel off causing it to contact my front fender. I felt so stupid for not having them properly torqued, but it could have been much worse. The only thinkg affected was the driver's fender. I cut my losses and took the fender back to have it repaired. It came back about 5 months later, but I wasn't until I needed it.

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Here is the damage.
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[CruizinKev]

looking good! very nice exhaust tips!! :twothumbs I also thought about them for my monte! where did you get these?

[ryeguy2006a]

It was actually that event that made me turn my build into more of a Resto-Mod build. I will explain. I was forced to take the front end apart due to the damage. While I had it apart I decided to upgrade the front springs to PTFB GT springs along with Koni single Adjustable front shocks. I also got the PTFB solid body bushings. I made the order to Custom Works, all in all I bought Keith's C5 kit with hubs, brackets, bearings, SS lines, Solid body bushings, Koni's, and the GT springs.

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This is the new ride height.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120220_165742_98-1.jpg

Since I was tearing into the car I also decided I wanted to shave the firewall, but instead I went with block off plate. I went with .050 Aluminum with is the NHRA Spec for sheet aluminum. I will eventually upgrade to the Vintage Air Gen IV Setup for my car. For now I am going to run without one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120108_140236_337-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120108_140258_303-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120204_084035_459-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120204_090833_976-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120204_112140_171-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120204_130537_439-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120204_130546_316-1.jpg

[ryeguy2006a]

That brings me up to Last weekend where I finally did my C5 conversion on a budget. Excluding the wheels I have $325 bucks into it. I found deals on things and jumped on them when I could. I also have a complete LS1 rear brake setup to do install after I get the car running a little bit. I want go get it on the road before I tackle that job.

I wasn't able to get as much as I wanted done, but still I was able to get a huge step forward. I was able to get my C5 brakes installed. I have been collecting parts for this upgrade for a long time and now I was finally able to get it installed. It took a lot of work and patience making sure that everything lined up and was going to be square. I used the included instructions from Custom Works to modify the spindles to accept the new C5 calipers and brackets.

First I had to actually cut into my spindles, and let me tell you that was a cool feeling that I was doing the upgrade, but once that one ear came off of the spindle I realized there was no turning back.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_091220_655-1.jpg

Once the ears came off the spoilers to clear the new brackets I used a grinding wheel to clean up and smooth out the areas where I made the cut. I think that it turned out really well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_091227_561_1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_091232_753-1.jpg

The two holes for the old dust cover need to be drilled out with a 3/8 inch drill bit and then tapped with a 7/16 by 14 threads tap. This is what took a really long time is making sure that the hole for the tap was completely square and that the tap was going in straight. If this is off it can cause failure by making the bolt fatigued.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_094206_192-1.jpg

Next I had to re-install the spindles onto the car and getting the C5 brackets installed and torqued down. I made sure to check all of the fitment of the brackets before I did a final install and glad that I did because I ended up needing to remove more of the spindle. I also made sure to torque down the ball joints to the correct specs and install the cotter pins so the bolts won't come out again. I bought new grade 8 bolts and torqued them down to what was recommended by Custom Works. I added a little thread lock to them for some added insurance.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_103850_502-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_103856_824-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_104703_141-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_130702_161-1.jpg

Now it was time to install the hubs that I also bought from Custom Works. They are pieces that were machined from 3rd gen F-body rotors and turned down into hubs to allow for the correct spacing for the wheels. They came from Custom Works with new inner and outer wheel bearings along with new dust covers for the rear. One downfall to the hubs is the studs are Metric, so I either have to press on some new SAE studs make sure not to mix and match my lugs. Once they were installed I torqued the spindle nuts down to 12 ft/lbs. to set the bearings, then backed the nuts off until there was some play back and forth with the hub. Once I felt the play I tightened the nut to the next closest hold for the cotter pin and king nut to line up. I put new cotter pins in and put the dust caps back on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_131007_657-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_131013_212-1.jpg

This was the most exciting part for me. I put on the rotors and calipers to check the clearance with the wheels, and what luck the 17" rims that I bought fit over the calipers! Actually I knew they were going to fit because before I bought the rims I used a template that was supplied by Kore3 to measure the rims. Although I wasn't 100% sure, I was confident enough to buy the rims. They fit great, although I may need a small spacer for the rims when I install new pads, as when they have new pads, they calipers float too far out causing the rims to contact the caliper.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_111020_922-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_134329_269-1.jpg

Lastly I installed the stainless steel braided hoses that came with the kit. They are conversion hoses that are metric on the side for the calipers and SAE for the side that bolts to the brake lines. That way it is a complete bolt on kit that doesn't require any other fittings. They came with new clips, crush washers, and bolts. Very complete kit from Custom Works, and they did a great job with the parts that I ordered. And last but not least my favorite picture of the day.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_134704_136-1.jpg

There is some slight surface rust on the rotors, but will clean up as soon as I hit the brakes.The only thing that needs to be finished is the brakes need to be bled. I tried to bleed them, but for some reason they were being difficult. It was getting late so I decided to call it a day. I was able to cross that off my list of things to do. I was putting this off because I knew that it was going to be time consuming, and I am glad that I jumped in head first.

I also was able to get some 1976 grills from a member on 78ta.com, and I will be painting them black to match the trim. I am really excited to see what the car is going to look like when it is finished.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120303_213751_457-1.jpg

That is all for now. Enjoy.

[ryeguy2006a]

looking good! very nice exhaust tips!! :twothumbs I also thought about them for my monte! where did you get these?

I bought the tips from a member on another site who had them custom made. I don't know who made them, but they did a great job.

[srh3trinity]

Looking great. I have a 74 and I love the front fascia on these cars. You just don't see many 74-76 builds. I have been wanting to go with a similar gunmetal grey, so it is nice to see this body style with that color.

[70Uglybird]

Looks Awesome, amazing what you've done with that car!!!

[LeighP]

A lot of work posting all those pics to catch everyone up, eh?
Looking good, Ryan!

[79-TA]

The new ride height in the front looks much better. What was going on with the old ride height? It seemed really high.

[ryeguy2006a]

A lot of work posting all those pics to catch everyone up, eh?
Looking good, Ryan!

Thanks, It took me quite a while to go through all the pictures. But like I said, it has become more of a Resto-Mod and thought it belonged over here too. I don't see a lot of 2nd gen Trans Am's so I thought I would add to the collection.

[ryeguy2006a]

The new ride height in the front looks much better. What was going on with the old ride height? It seemed really high.

I am not quite sure what happened with the old ride height. I bought some new replacement springs from NAPA, and they made the car sit very high. Not sure if they would have settled enough for my liking, but I decided to just swap them out. I am on the home stretch to finish the car, so I just need to focus on getting the car finished. The C5 brakes were my biggest hold up because it was intimidating to me, but I did it and am very happy with the results.

[ryeguy2006a]

I was able to take Friday and Saturday off of work this week and I was able to get a lot done on the car. My first goal was to get the fenders and front end of my car back together. I put the fenders and nose piece together and all of the body lines matched up very nicely. The fender that is on the car was actually the fender that was damaged earlier. My body guy did a fantastic job of getting it back together and you can't tell that the fender was ever damaged. Here are some pictures.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_094737_188-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_094744_508-1.jpg

I was able to get the marker lights in and they fit very nicely.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_115942_911-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_123936_3-1.jpg

Then I got the front bumper on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_163026_778-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_163033_643_1-1.jpg

Here is a picture of the stance with all of the front sheet metal on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_163047_723-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_163101_580-1.jpg

I blacked out the front grills and the fog light bezels.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_163622_132-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_165426_842-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120316_171058_250-1.jpg

I feel like I didn't get that much done, but I think it is because I am just getting back to where I was before I had the incident with the fender. This is all that I got done on Friday. More to come for Saturday. I will post those pictures up soon.

Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Now I was also able to work on the car this Saturday as well. I wasn't able to get as much done as I hoped, but progress is progress. What took me so long was the first two tasks I did; Kick panel installation and fixing the fuel gauge. I was able to get the fuel gauge reading correctly as well as putting my kick panels on. I didn't think they were going to take that long, but that is how it goes. They ended up taking me most of the morning to accomplish. Any way, I was able to get those tasks done and on to other things.

Here is the car in the air when I was fixing the fuel gauge.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_120418_931-1.jpg

Here are the kick panels that I installed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175252_378-1.jpg

Once they were done, I was able to get my Koni Adjustable shocks on. That was a good feeling bolting on something that was new!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_120449_960-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_120454_341-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_121746_524-1.jpg

While the car was on the lift, I also painted my rear drums black so they weren't in primer any longer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175833_937-1.jpg

I was having trouble with my factory 8k tach so instead of having it sent away to be fixed, I gutted an Autometer gauge that I had laying around and grafted it into my factory gauge bezel. I think that it turned out great and will be a good temporary fix to my issue of not having a tach.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_153507_607-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_162229_8-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_162233_742-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175333_577-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175400_422-1.jpg

I now have the rest of my parts all painted! I got the wheel spoilers and shaker back from my paint guy. Let me tell you it looks so good. I cannot wait to put them all on the car. It is going to change the appearance of the car completely. Here they are.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175453_585-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175507_87-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175513_78-1.jpg

Here are just another few photos of the car just parked and in its current condition.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175444_425-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175433_336-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175421_821-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175415_632-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120317_175303_81-1.jpg

[real57vetteguy]

Very nice

[CruizinKev]

good work man! :twothumbs

[Olav]

Like it...

[twoformulas]

Lookin' good! I like the exterior color.

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the compliments. I haven't seen another 2nd gen firebird in this color and I wanted to be different than all the rest that you see. I am very happy at the way that it turned out. I can't wait to get it out on the road.

[ryeguy2006a]

I was able to get in the garage on Friday afternoon for a few hours. I have been having a lot of trouble getting my brakes bled after I did the C5 front brake conversion. My dad and I had about 10 hours logged into trying to get the brakes bled over the past few weeks. It had boggled my mind that it was taking this long and we weren't getting anywhere because we tried everything. I thought that it was the proportioning valve since that was the only piece of the system that wasn't new or refurbished. The worst part of the whole deal, was that before I put the C5 brakes on, all of the brakes were working fine? So we were all lost as to what the problem could be.

I finally said that enough was enough and we pulled the Master Cylinder off and started from there. I was very surprised to find that there was quite a bit of rust on the back of the master cylinder around the pump? Upon further inspection we found that the front plunger was sticking? I bought a new/refurbished piece from a local parts store about 4 years ago and thought that it would be good. I guess it makes me think differently about some of the auto parts stores. Since I needed a new one, I called Tobin at Kore3 and he told me that I wouldn't be happy with the petal feel on the stock MC with the 1 1/8th inch bore. He said that a good cheaper alternative to buying an aftermarket piece would be to buy a stock 68-76 C3 Corvette Manual brake MC. These come with a 1" Bore which is the same as the bore on the factory C5 brakes. It should give me the same petal feel as the factory C5 and much better stopping power than the original brakes.

Now, although I was upset that I spent all that time thinking that I had a good MC, I was happily surprised to find out that the parts store actually gave me a full exchange price on the MC I bought 4 years ago and the C3 MC was cheaper than the one I originally bought so I ended up getting back $8 in change! I didn't think that was too bad. The C3 MC was completely bolt in, with the exception of having to make a spacer to make up for the difference with the brake petal plunger. It took me around 20 mins to make the spacer and it fit great. I will get some pictures next weekend when I go to work on the car. I was able to get the new MC installed in about 20 mins and bled in about another 20 mins. It is amazing to me that it was as simple as getting a new MC, and it actually looks fairly stock. I am completely happy with my upgrade now.

That is all for now.

Ryan

[craigs73]

the car has came a long way keep up the great work

[ryeguy2006a]

Here are the pictures of my C3 new Master Cylinder. I still need to clean up my engine bay so please excuse all of the dust from sitting around.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120325_173420_227-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120325_173428_671-1.jpg

[ryeguy2006a]

I ended up buying a pair of Bosch E-code glass headlights off of Ebay, for $50 shipped. These will allow me to do the H4/9003 upgrade for a much brighter headlights during the night. Also allows me to have a replacable bulbs incase one blows, the whole headlight doesn't need to be replaced. I am very happy with the quaility when I opened them and they look more clear than what was shown in the pictures. From what I read online these headlights are on par with Hella, but are 1/3 the price. Now I had to buy some bulbs from the auto parts store, so all in I have $80 into them. I will give a better review once they are installed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120329_074842_988-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120329_074912_628-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120329_074925_394-1.jpg

I hope to get some time in the garage this weekend, but no guarantees. If I do, I will get the hood and wheel spoilers on and possibly the shaker. It would sure be nice to see the car complete.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I was able to put in some time this Friday to get some more accomplished on the car. I have been trying to just get as much done on the car as I can. I worked on the car from Friday at around 7:30 and continued on until 4am the next day! Once I start working on the car I just don't want to start. I didn't get as much done as I wanted, but that is how it goes.

The first thing I wanted to do was get my dash bezel ready to install. It was super dirty and wanted it to look as good as it could without being refinished. Eventually would like to send it out to Randy Combs to be refinished, but at this time I need to focus on getting the car on the road and things like that for a later date. Here is what I started with.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120330_190401_253-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120330_190405_885-1.jpg

I got it cleaned up and installed, after I got the wipers working that is. I am not sure what I did to get the wipers working, but I just started to move things around inside and it finally started to work? The wipers were a mystery to me, so I am glad that they are working now. I no longer have any wiring issues, so that was a great weight lifted off my shoulders.

Here is the bezel installed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120331_023434_545-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120331_023449_7-1.jpg

I also installed the door lock switch that I bought a few months ago. I bought it from ILLTA77, and he included the wiring pigtail and a new decal for the switch. Here is what it looks like installed. I don't have the power locks installed yet, but it will be something I do in the future.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120331_023441_781-1.jpg

Now here is what I was really excited about. I was finally able to get my wheel spoilers on! When I originally bought the front fenders I was told they were off of a 79 and I knew that we had to change the front of the fenders where the mount to accept the front bumper. But to my surprise, the must have been off of a 77-78, because my front spoilers bolted right on. I thought I was going to have to drill new holes for the front fenders. I am super happy with the fit and finish of the spoilers. They all fit so nicely. I have no regrets to buying original oem wheel spoilers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120330_193815_154-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120330_193820_870-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120330_200504_173-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120330_200450_918-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120331_000628_467-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120331_000437_614-1.jpg

I also put a different nose emblem on. It is chrome and black, instead of the original red one. I think that it looks much better than the red one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120331_001147_141-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120331_001151_610-1.jpg

And to top it all off, I was able to get the hood on. I still need to get the gaps all worked out on the hood, but it's on! I couldn't be happier, well I will be when I get the shaker I guess. I really feel like the car will be done soon. It has been so long since I have seen the car in one piece that it almost sounds unreal to have it all done. Also, don't mind the hood, it has been wet sanded and not buffed. I hope to have that done next weekend.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120331_000425_368-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120331_000445_31-1.jpg

That is all for now, Enjoy.

Ryan

[peices of eight...]

Nice job Ryan ! way to keep at it !

[LeighP]

I like your choice on the nose badge...fits in with the colour theme nicely. Looks good with the flares. If you were missing all the flares before, don't forget that there are small clips that fit between the flares and the centre spoiler...on the back edge...to help things line up. Often those are missing and people don't realise they exist.

[ryeguy2006a]

I didn't get a whole lot done on Friday, but it was a very rewarding step. I had my paint guy come over and wet sand and buff out my car. It looks absolutely fantastic. I took it outside to get some pictures of the car in the sun. I was just taken back at how much I love the color. It took most of the afternoon to get done, but was worth it. It was nice to see the car complete and what it will look like once I have all of the little details worked out and the bugs all taken care of. Here is what we started with first thing in the afternoon and where we finished later in the day.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_141558_254-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_141607_73-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_141613_877-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_141620_580-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_142719_602-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_142723_691-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_151121_930-1.jpg

I sanded and hand buffed the shaker. I think that it turned out pretty good for my first time.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_151126_507-1.jpg

And outside with the new stance with the GT springs from PTFB. I am absolutely happy with the stance. Possibly lower the rear slightly, but overall very happy. I also just threw the shaker under the hood to get an idea of what it will eventually look like.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_162616_777-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_162632_55-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_162641_940-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_162655_964-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_162716_18-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_162908_567-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120406_163020_455-1.jpg

[ryeguy2006a]

Saturday we went over the car again with a couple other compounds to really make the paint pop, and get rid of some of the small swirls. I thought that it looked good yesterday, and when he got done today, I was just amazed. it just looks so clear and reflective. I took some more pictures of the paint, it looks like a mirror!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120407_143620_402-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120407_143624_405-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120407_143638_953-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120407_143708_787-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120407_143719_104-1.jpg

I also did a little work here and there. I put in my Bosch H4/9003 conversion headlights in and realized that I only had one headlight bucket retainer for the lights. So looks like I need to find one in order to finish those. I did test them and they bolted right in. Very happy with the fit of those.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120407_143735_650-1.jpg

I also modified my stock shaker base to lower it in order to fit it over the Holley carb. I have to finish adjusting the hood before I finalize the fitment of the shaker, but here is the trial run for the height. Let me know if you think that it is too low? I feel that it is slightly too low, but then again the hood isn't completely fit yet.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120407_144334_726-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120407_144338_846-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120407_144349_904-1.jpg

That is all for this weekend. More to come in the short future.

Ryan

[LeighP]

Ryan,
That looks great! You must be very happy with how it's turning out.
Shaker looks fine.....could sit a little higher if you wanted, but it's fine the way it is...the early 77 shakers sit way lower than yours.

[rfalker1]

Nice build.. I am really liking the color... and the exhaust looks really nice too, i am running spintechs myself. Question one one of your pictures the exhaust looks a little low. Is that how it fits or was it not tucked all the way in??

[reedld]

Looking good Ryan!

I have a link that you may like to read. It is about the voltage at your headlights. I have not yet done this to my car (mainly because I do not drive it at night)...but I plan to. Most of the pre-90's cars are this way...this wiring mod would fix it. Before actually doing it, use a DVM to test the voltage at your headlights.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/brighter-headlights.shtml

I first noticed the dim lights as I was driving home at dusk one evening. I was following a car for a short distance, they turned and then nobody was ahead of me. POW! I felt like I was blind!

[ryeguy2006a]

Nice build.. I am really liking the color... and the exhaust looks really nice too, i am running spintechs myself. Question one one of your pictures the exhaust looks a little low. Is that how it fits or was it not tucked all the way in??

Yeah, the exhaust does hang a little low, but I don't think it will be too bad. I haven't gotten the car on the road yet to drive it, but I will have to fix it if it rubs on everything. I have to say that I absolutely love the way that the SpinTech mufflers sound. It is what a muscle car is supposed to sounds like.


Looking good Ryan!

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/brighter-headlights.shtml

I first noticed the dim lights as I was driving home at dusk one evening. I was following a car for a short distance, they turned and then nobody was ahead of me. POW! I felt like I was blind!

Thanks for the link Leon, I eventually plan to get this harness, or something similar. I figure for the time being, these are supposed to be twice as bright as factory so I should be fine for now. I am like you though, I don't plan on driving the car at night, but you never know.

[ryeguy2006a]

Worked on the car on Saturday for a few hours and finished up some loose ends that I have been putting off for a while. I spent all of the morning working again on my brakes... The brake lines that I bought weren't going to work with my set-up as they were hitting the frame. I think that they aren't working because of the lowering springs that I bought for the fronts. Fortunately I had a set of stainless steel lines that were from my factory brakes and they worked perfectly with my current set-up. I didn't take any pictures of this because it has been an on-going dilemma and I wasn't happy of how I was spending my morning. Once that was done and I was finally able to bleed my brakes for I hope, the last time I could focus my time on other areas. I had some left over material from my headliner and I had my mom sew me together a shift boot. I tried to do it myself and failed miserably.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_102048_421-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_143037_936-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_164519_527-1.jpg

I didn't get any pictures of this last time, but I deleted the window guides off my weather stripping rail for a cleaner look. It isn't a big deal, but I think a lot of little things like this add up to make a really clean car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_164454_533-1.jpg

I painted the rest of my trim, SEM trim black, along with my wiper arms. I installed the door locks and was surprised at how easily I installed them! I was thinking it would be much harder than it was. Good for my time management.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_164436_190-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_164447_159_1-1.jpg

I also put in the rest my interior and got my passengers seat installed. I put in the radio, but didn't get it hooked up. I am not going to worry about that at a later date and just concentrate on getting the car on the road and getting the bugs worked out. Also, I am going to used the spare headliner material to recover my console lid.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_164523_840-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_164514_885-1.jpg

Finally, I got the hood aligned and started to get the shaker base modified to accept my Holley carb. Here are some pictures of the height at which I like the shaker. Let me know if you guys think that is a good height. I moved it up slightly from the previous post. I like it much better.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_171532_509-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120414_171538_723-1.jpg

All for now.

Ryan

[tflyboy77]

Very nice car!!! I'm running a lot of the ptfb equipment on my 77 and love all of it. I think I have just about one of everything Dave makes.

[PonchoJohn]

Paint looks AWESOME!!
Your shaker is much better looking at the raised height. I never did like the "sunk in" '77 shaker look. 70-76 shakers fly high!

[Carter]

Looking good! This is almost blow for blow what I am doing to my car.

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks guys. I am getting really excited to get the car on the road. I am hoping to get it registered in the next week or so. Then I can work some of the bugs out of the car.

Carter, your car looks awesome! I have a nice DD, but not like your Vette, that is a nice car.

[CruizinKev]

very nice man! looks great! :twothumbs

[ryeguy2006a]

Since I have a different intake, Holley carb and run a spacer I needed to do something about my base to run the shaker at the right height. I modified my original one, but am not happy with it. I am going to run it like this for the summer, but will get something different over the winter. Here is what I came up with. I grafted in an Edelbrock Pro-Flow air cleaner to fit under the shaker.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120421_082115_493-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120421_082129_945-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120421_143547_198-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120421_143631_39-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/20120421_143637_640-1.jpg

Here is a quick video of the shaker doing what it does best... Shaking. Click the photo to view.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/th_20120421_140146_219-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m215/ryeguy2006a/?action=view&current=2012-04-21_14-01-46_219.mp4)

I also swapped out the 650 holley for a 750. I like the throttle response better. I am very happy. I am going to get her registered this week sometime and possibly drive it around next weekend! I can't wait.

All for now.

[LeighP]

Good luck on the registration thing. :)

[PA Formula 78]

I would lose that air cleaner, those are known to catch fire. The car is looking really sharp.

[NOT A TA]

I would lose that air cleaner, those are known to catch fire. The car is looking really sharp.

Your car is looking great! I strongly second the suggestion to ditch the air cleaner. I've seen several catch fire (including one of my own back in the 90's).

[ryeguy2006a]

Well looks like I need to loose this air cleaner... I hadn't heard that or I would not have spend the money one it. I guess it was only 20 bucks and and a few hours of fabrication down. I think I am just going to invest in the WFO, or blockers base.

[ryeguy2006a]

Update, working on version 2.0 of my shaker base since the current set-up is liable to catch fire. I also just got a completel left side rear brake assembly from a 98-02 fbody to complete my LS1 rear disk setup. No pictures until this weekend.

[70Uglybird]

Car is looking great!!!

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks Uglybird. I am really jealous of your t56 though. I look forward to seeing the progress on that as that is on my list of things to do to my car.

[70Uglybird]

Thanks Uglybird. I am really jealous of your t56 though. I look forward to seeing the progress on that as that is on my list of things to do to my car.

They are pretty sound transmissions, so picking them up used is not a big deal and if you ever had a problem with one let me know one of my best friends rebuilds them and is a sponser on LS1Tech.

If you have any questions about it let me know I went through alot of different options before going the "expensive" route. But if you could make your own crossmember you could probably do the swap fairly cheap. Quite a bit cheaper than a Keisler 5 speed. In fact even with all the high $$ parts I got I think I'm less than a 5 speed...of course that would have been NEW and a direct fit.

If it makes you feel better I'm jealous of A LOT of things on your car :) You really have done a great job and are going to have an incredible ride when its done!

[ryeguy2006a]

I will definitly keep you in mind when I go to do the swap. Thanks.

[ryeguy2006a]

I worked on the car for a few hours on Saturday and I was able to get a few things done. I installed my new battery and that seemed to get rid of the problem I was having with the "Draw", just ended up being a bad battery. I was able to get the other headlight installed and wired up. I want to give a big thanks to richduty455, on TAC, he went above and beyond to get me a headlight retainer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120428_114728-1.jpg

I also put on my door trim, which was the last piece of trim that I needed to install.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120428_114702-1.jpg

I won't be able to work on the car this coming weekend, but I am looking forward to getting a lot done for the following weekend. I sent in the request for registration for vintage plates yesterday. I hope to have that back soon and then I will be able to legally drive the car on the road.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I ended up finding someone who had a new in the box Blockers Performance shaker kit and I am buying it from him for a great price. Should be at my doorstep today. Looking forward to getting that installed. Once that is on, the only thing that is left is to final tune the car (on the road) and finish up some little remaining issues. Such as installing the rest of the seatbelts, washing the outside of the car, detailing the engine bay and interior, etc.

I also got my other complete left side LS1 brake assembly for the rear. Now all I need for the swap is some spacers for the axles to line up with the rotor, adjustable proportioning valve, and ebrake cables. Looking forward to that, I may end up getting it done by the end of the summer, but not sure yet. I will get some pictures up soon.

[ryeguy2006a]

I got some parts at my doorstep on Saturday and yesterday. I got some more of the parts that I was looking for to complete my LS1 rear brakes for my car. All I need to finish the rear brake swap is the spacers, ebrake cables, and adjustable proportioning valve. I am really looking forward to this and it should make a big difference in looks and appearance.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120507_213412-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120507_213417-1.jpg

I also got the blocker kit that was offered to me from Am Fan who is a member here on TAC. He gave me a price that I couldn't refuse and I am glad that I got it. I will have to do something to modify the shaker piece as it is for a 77-81 style shaker piece. I don't think that will be a problem because it is a flat piece of fiberglass. I should be able to make another one and fit it into my shaker. I should be able to put this on this weekend and finish up the rest of the little things.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120507_213630-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120507_213651-1.jpg

I should get my registration back either by the end of this week or the beginning of next week. I should have sent this in sooner and not waited, but that is the way that it goes.

All for now.

[Code Red]

real awesome work, love the vent mesh and how you molded in the tach and looks factory.

[ryeguy2006a]

I finally finished my interior. I got all of the seat belts installed and vacuumed out the carpet. I couldn't be happier with the way that it turned out. I also detailed the car and got all of the buffing residue off the whole car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120512_011351-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120512_011356-1.jpg

I also decided to recover my center console lid. Eventually I will get a new one, but I want to make it good enough to get me through the summer. Here is what I did let me know what you think. Keep in mind that I did this at 2:30 this morning and did it in about 20 mins. I used some more left over headliner material that I had. *

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120512_011737-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120512_013434-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120512_014640-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120512_015623-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120512_021821-1.jpg

I also took my car for a test drive, again and unfortunately I found out that I need new axle bearings... So that means that I am now thinking of just putting the money forward and doing the rear disk brake swap. I don't want to have to pull the axles twice so I am not sure what I want to do.

I should have my registration back next week. I am using vintage plates that used to be my dad's plates. He ran them on his 1970 Chevelle, and his 1970 Camaro SS back in the day. I think that it will be really cool to use his original plates on my car, I know that it means a lot to him too.

Thanks,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

My car is officially registered!!! I am hoping that I can take it down to my uncles shop tomorrow and have it inspected for a car show this weekend. I am taking tomorrow off from work and I am going to get everything prepared for the show on Sunday. I hope to get everything functioning as it should. Wish me luck.

Also, when I went to put on the fiberglass blockers kit it didn't fit over my Holley Carb. Seems like everything has been this way with this car. Luckily my neighbor is good with fiberglass and he is going to modify the base for me so it will fit over the Holley. Hopefully when I go to work on the car tomorrow everything will come together.

Wish me luck.

[ryeguy2006a]

Ok, I have a lot of updates from yesterday. I took the day off and worked my very hard and I am very glad that I did because I needed every minute I had yesterday. I was putting the finishing touches on my car throughout the day yesterday. I had a lot of projects going on. I will start with my blocker kit because that was the first thing I started.

Since I got such a great deal on the blocker kit I bought here I can't really complain, but it wasn't as simple as I thought to install. First the kit that I bought was for 77-79, meaning that I had to make my own insert for the shaker. This piece holds the filter. So I re-purposed my parents old shower and created a new shaker insert. I think that it turned out pretty good. I started with a piece of cardboard and scissors to get the right shape, then used the fiberglass board.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_085159-1.jpg

Here is the board fit in the shaker.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_085217-1.jpg

Cut the whole for the filter. And looks just like the one from blockers.... Well sorta.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_090354-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_091206-1.jpg

And the insert with the filter installed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_093909-1.jpg

Then onto the liquid nails and wait 24 hours. (which I didn't expect)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_101452-1.jpg

Also, since I have a Holley carb the shaker base wouldn't just fit in there. Of course why would it just bolt on that wouldn't make any sense. Anyway I have a neighbor that is really good with fiberglass and he helped me out by cutting out some holes for the float level bowls go on the Holley and patched up the holes. He even painted it for me. Great guy, he loves cars too. Even if they are ricers...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_102151-1.jpg

Ok, onto my next hurdle. We can call this an adventure, and I will explain along the way. I mentioned before that my rear end was making horrible scrapping sounds, so I figured it was the bearings. Well when I got the axles out I found that to be exactly the case. The bearings were toast and the axles were severely scarred.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_113640-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_113655-1.jpg

I went to Autozone the night before and borrowed all the necessary tools to remove and re-install the bearings. Absolutely worth the time to get the right tools. I didn't exactly know what I needed for the install, so I bought the two stock bearings they had in stock and the one saver bearing they had. Once I got the axles out and realized I needed two saver bearings... So I made a phone call to one of my car guy friends, and what do you know he had a pair of z28 axles that were in great shape. The best part, only cost 20 bucks for the pair. Here is the comparison.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_134610-1.jpg

And up close.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_134628-1.jpg

And while I had the rear apart I painted my rear diff cover to match my body color. I thought it gave the underside a little more color than just the black paint.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_181022-1.jpg

That didn't sound like much of an adventure, but trust me there was a lot or running around to the parts store getting new fluids bolts, and then finally negotiating with the axles.

On to the sway bar, nothing can be as easy as the sway bar right? Wrong, I went to bolt on my sway bar and the threads on one of the bolts pulled out. So, I saw a trick that so one did on pro-touring that worked great. They drilled out the holes enough to fit a shoulder nut up into the holes and then weld the nut to the frame. Pretty cool little trick.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_145712-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_145736-1.jpg

[ryeguy2006a]

To continue on, I found out that because I have a new MC (C3 disk/disk) that I need to have a residual valve installed for the rear drums. The residual valve is built into the factory MC, so when I switched I no longer had one and the drums won't work as efficiently without one, so I bought one. I still need to install it soon, just need to figure out where to install it inline.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_114631-1.jpg

Now, off to my appointment over an hour late. It is a good thing my uncle owns the shop or I doubt I would have gotten it in. I needed a front end alignment and inspection. I think that my uncle was messing with me during the inspection, saying things like "I'm not going to use my license to inspect this." or "I doubt this is going to pass like this" After all that work I was thinking, this can't be the case. It ended up getting the inspection and alignment done and then I was actually legal to drive my own car down the road. So first thing I did was got some gas. Which judging by how quickly my gauge went down will be something I am going to be very familiar with. Here are a few pictures to end the day.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_180933-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_180951-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_181045-1.jpg

Right after I got back from the gas station. And just so I don't get people mad at me, if you remember my shaker needed 24 hours to dry. It will not have that filter on it going forward. It seems surreal to me that I am actually driving this car after 7 years of ownership. I have already put 20 miles on the car and hope the numbers keep going up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_195713-1.jpg

I have been waiting for a while to put this decal on so here it is. I think it looks so cool on the muscle cars. Since I have bought several parts from them, I will give them some free advertising. Also you can see my vintage plates. These actually belonged to my dad in the 70's so that is pretty cool that I can use them.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_222136-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120518_222146-1.jpg

That is all for now, I hope to get some nice photos from the car show tomorrow.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I was able to get my car done enough to attend my first show. Here are a bunch of pictures. Once I got back from the show I took a bunch of pictures of the car at my parents house. Enjoy.

This Cobra had a 521 cu. fuel injected BBF! Wow.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_115953-1.jpg

I was too busy at the show to take many pictures of my car, but once I got home I took a bunch of them at my parents. That is where I store the car when I am not driving it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154012-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154211-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154229-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154252-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154316-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154339-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154349-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154400-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154411-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154758-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154808-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154817-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154831-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154842-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_1548511-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154902-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120520_154851-1.jpg

Lots of pictures, but I guess I am just a proud parent, haha.

Cheers,
Ryan

[70Uglybird]

Looks amazing. EXCELLENT work.. I hope what I say is taken the right way....I've never been a huge fan of 74 to 76 firebirds.....yours has changed my mind.

[CruizinKev]

x2 looks awesome Ryan! good work!! :cheers:

[mdes0]

nice work man

[ryeguy2006a]

Looks amazing. EXCELLENT work.. I hope what I say is taken the right way....I've never been a huge fan of 74 to 76 firebirds.....yours has changed my mind.

Thank you, I take that as a compliment. And thanks for all of the other compliments. I have been waiting a long time to get my car to this point and it feels great. I need to tweak a few things before she is running really good, but for not I am more than happy.

[LeighP]

Lots of good work showing in those pics, Ryan...congrats, mate!

[ryeguy2006a]

I was finally able to get a good day here on a weekend in Upstate, NY to go for a cruise. My wife and I got in the car and just drove with no particular place in mine. We ended up driving to Montrose, PA and turning around and heading north on some roads that we picked at random. We ended up putting just over 75 miles on the odometer, and it felt great. The new exhaust pipes weren't contacting my axle over ever bump, and the ride was really smooth. I ended up picking some nice windy roads, and the PTFB GT springs and Koni shocks worked flawlessly. I am very happy with the performance of the car so far. I still need to fine tune my carb, but other than that it is great.

Once I got the car back to my house, I realize how dirty the car was. I decided to give my car it's first real bath, and the first coat of wax. I had to wait to wax it until all of the parts were fully cured, 90 days. Although the shell of the car was painted over a year ago. Any way the car really polished up, and I decided to take it out for a photo shoot. The pictures turned out much better than I thought from my cell phone. Here are the results.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_193458-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_193512-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_193538-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_193554-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_193606-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_195253-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_195306-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_195322-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_195335-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_195347-1.jpg

This is my favorite picture from the day.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_195409-1.jpg

Finally, here is a picture of my rims all cleaned up, with the C5 Brakes showing through.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_20120610_195422-1.jpg

[srh3trinity]

Great pictures, it is giving me some inspiration for the 74 I am working on. I didn't see any in the thread, but I have some PTFB G-braces that I bought here off of the forum that I am going to be putting up for sale. I only want to get back what I paid for them, I thought you might be interested.

[garickman]

Nice job on the build, car looks great. What do you think of the yearone package tray now that is installed? Was there alot of trimming and fitting required?

[ryeguy2006a]

Nice job on the build, car looks great. What do you think of the yearone package tray now that is installed? Was there alot of trimming and fitting required?

I love the way that the Year One package tray looks. The fitment is fantastic, I didn't have to trim anything. I currently don't have any speakers in the rear, but it is on my list of things to do. The only problem with the package tray is that the rear two screws are almost impossible to install with the rear glass installed. I found that out after my glass was in. So I currently only have the front two screws in, but haven't had any problems.

[ryeguy2006a]

I made the banner of the month of July on another forum!

http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php

[ryeguy2006a]

After a great summer filled with many trips in my car, I am getting ready for the winter. I made myself some car stands to put my car on just like the ones used by DSE, so I can work on the car up in the air at ride height. I haven't finished them all, but I will have them all done shortly. I build the ones shown out of treated lumber and will use them for the bottom stand, and the rest will be out of regular untreated lumber. They will put my car in the air about 12", which will give me some space in order to work under the car this winter.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/IMG_20120922_165051-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/IMG_20120922_165059-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/IMG_20120923_122754-1.jpg

And lastly, here is a picture of what I should be picking up this Sunday. I will let you guys guess why I got it. Let's just say I will have a busy winter.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Ryan

[srh3trinity]

Heart transplant? I need to build some of those wheel cribs too.

[yellow1098Greg]

Awesome.....what are u paying for the camero if u don't mind me asking.....I was thinking of a similar project

[ryeguy2006a]

I ended up swapping my engine and trans for the car, so there is no turning back now!

I bought some engine swap engine brackets from dirty dingo today. One more piece to the puzzle. Next is the big purchase and I will get some Dynamaxx 70-81 LS swap headers. Just have to save a little for those. No pictures yet, but I hope to have some this weekend once I get the engine tore out of the car.

[70Uglybird]

Document the hell out this Ryan, I have a roller motor, ported head 466 going in right now but I still think I might go with a LS1 variant at some point in the near future.

[ryeguy2006a]

Ok, made some big progress towards my engine swap. I had my buddy come over and we stripped the front end of the car off so that today I would be able to just pull the motor out. After a few hours I was able to get the motor down and pull the body off. It is the reverse of how I have ever done engine swaps, but is actually the proper way to remove the engine from the 4th gen cars. Here are some pictures of the process.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_134042-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_144355-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_144703-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_145024-1.jpg

And the motor is gone...well from this car anyway.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_145004-1.jpg

Here is the mess that will be swapped over to my car. I need to strip off all of the emissions equiptment and remove the wires from the ECU that are not necessary, such as the rear O2 sensors.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_145018-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_150012-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_151051-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_151101-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_151117-1.jpg

I found this written on the bellhousing for the T-56. I think that it says Halcucca Motorsports JB Performed

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_153809-1.jpg

This is what I ended up with once I stipped away the wiring.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_160215-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121008_171158-1.jpg

Now that the engine is out, I need to get the engine cleaned up and figuring out my wiring right off first. I ordered some engine mounts from Dirty Dingo made for 74-81 F-body's and they should be here soon. The next thing to purchase is going to be Dynatech LSx engine swap headers. They are Ceramic coated and fit very nicely.

That is all for now.

[ryeguy2006a]

Document the hell out this Ryan, I have a roller motor, ported head 466 going in right now but I still think I might go with a LS1 variant at some point in the near future.

I will take a lot of pictures, don't you worry.

[68firebird]

I'm jealous, I'm wanting an LS more and more every day. Have fun! can't wait to see more pictures. Please post up any difficulties you have swapping this in, very interested.

[srh3trinity]

That is the way I have seen 4th gen engine pulls. Drop the subframe from underneath. Is that a 98? Looks like it has perimeter bolt valve covers.
BTW, I am a little jealous of the space you have in the shop.

[70Uglybird]

Been there and done that a few times. Actually really easy. If its a 98 I think the exhaust manifolds will work in a 2nd gen...it was either 98 or 99 that worked without modifications. That said the LS does like to breath.

[geberhard]

Ryan, Very sweet and beautiful bird!! s. I just did a similar engine removal and doing the transplant on a 68 vert bird. One suggestion for the future removals (I swore myself I will never want to do it again lol), is to leave the rear wheels on, and put a couple tires under the rear tires, so it will swivel easily up rather than jackstands in the rear.

One recommendation if you are planning to lower the car at all, is to go with somethng else rather than the Dynatech Musclemaxx setup. I have it on my 67 and it works great around the frame and PS box, but one thing that honestly sucks, is that it hangs way too low. For the 68 swap, I got a set of Sanderson Headers, and also found a company that sells some polishd ones for $150, however have not tried yet, but so far looks like they will need very light massaging around the PS box. Dougs LS swap headers also seem to be a better option as they are long tube\hugger style, so they will not hang too low.

I probably missed, what color is that? Looks very clean, an very similar to the color on my 67 400.

Good luck on the project!!

Gui

[Trans]

I worked on the car for a few hours on Saturday and I was able to get a few things done. I installed my new battery and that seemed to get rid of the problem I was having with the "Draw", just ended up being a bad battery. I was able to get the other headlight installed and wired up. I want to give a big thanks to richduty455, on TAC, he went above and beyond to get me a headlight retainer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120428_114728-1.jpg

I also put on my door trim, which was the last piece of trim that I needed to install.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/IMG_20120428_114702-1.jpg

I won't be able to work on the car this coming weekend, but I am looking forward to getting a lot done for the following weekend. I sent in the request for registration for vintage plates yesterday. I hope to have that back soon and then I will be able to legally drive the car on the road.

Cheers,
Ryan

How comfortable are the seats?

[tlowe6]

I will be watching this closely.

I just purchased a 76 myself.......

[ryeguy2006a]

Ryan, Very sweet and beautiful bird!! s. I just did a similar engine removal and doing the transplant on a 68 vert bird. One suggestion for the future removals (I swore myself I will never want to do it again lol), is to leave the rear wheels on, and put a couple tires under the rear tires, so it will swivel easily up rather than jackstands in the rear.

One recommendation if you are planning to lower the car at all, is to go with somethng else rather than the Dynatech Musclemaxx setup. I have it on my 67 and it works great around the frame and PS box, but one thing that honestly sucks, is that it hangs way too low. For the 68 swap, I got a set of Sanderson Headers, and also found a company that sells some polishd ones for $150, however have not tried yet, but so far looks like they will need very light massaging around the PS box. Dougs LS swap headers also seem to be a better option as they are long tube\hugger style, so they will not hang too low.

I probably missed, what color is that? Looks very clean, an very similar to the color on my 67 400.

Good luck on the project!!

Gui
Thanks for the tips, I am still researching what headers I will be using.

And the color is Dark Shadow Gray, it is a Ford Color.

[ryeguy2006a]

How comfortable are the seats?
The seats are really comfortable actually. They are original untouched 1973 Deluxe seats.

[Karls73]

Nice looking ride. That's a lot of work in a short time.

[ryeguy2006a]

Got a little cleaning up done around my garage and the motor and trans. I also got some of my swap parts ready to install into my car. Here are the Dirty Dingo engine mounts, DSE hydraulic clutch bracket and a new Hurst shifter knob.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121013_092704-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121013_113609-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121013_113557-1.jpg

Here are some before and after pictures of the engine clean up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121013_163219-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121013_163230-1.jpg

And after a little Purple Power.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121013_183739-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121013_183744-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121013_183750-1.jpg

Not a bunch of updates, but I was busy parting out the Camaro, and didn't have a ton of time for the TA.

All for this weekend.

[ryeguy2006a]

I got all of this from a company called Waytek, and they specialize in wiring, and since it is a bulk company you can get some tremendous deals. I highly recommend the company. If you look I got two spools of wiring. I bought one red and one black 18 gauge automotive grade wiring reels 250 ft. for 18 each!! That is cheap. I also got a Bussmann fuse/relay box that is sealed and uses micro relays and micro blade style fuses. I also bought all of the necessary pieces to wire it up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121023_214009-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121023_214123-1.jpg

I also bought a brand new in the box Baer adjustable proportioning valve for my LS1 rear disk swap. That is the final piece that I needed. Now, I just need to actually do the swap!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121026_203330-1.jpg

That is all for today, but I should have some pictures from tomorrow of the first test fit of my new Engine!! I have to pick up my motor mounts from the post office first thing tomorrow and while the wife is away at an event I will be busy trying to get my engine in.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I got my motor and transmission in for a first test fit. Overall I was very happy with the fitment. I will have to take the motor in and out a few more times, but it fits really great for a first test. Here are some pictures.

Here is a picture of the Dirty Dingo engine mounts. They fit great and they are a very great company to work with. I ended up buying the wrong engine mounts, and needed to exchange them for the right ones. They were great and I was able to ship mine to them and get the new ones in less than a week. Excuse the oil on the engine.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_121353-1.jpg

Here is one of many times the motor will be on the engine hoist, but this is the first test fit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_121402-1.jpg

And here it is in with the Corvette Fuel Rail Covers. I like what I am seeing. And for those of you that may ask, the motor is tilted towards the rear because the shifter won't fit into the interior...yet. So for now it is tilted towards down in the rear.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_124328-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_124336-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_124352-1.jpg

Here are some pictures of the ground clearance.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_142710-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_142723-1.jpg

Now, the big debate I have been having is which headers to buy. But since I had the engine in there, I thought why not check and see how the stock manifolds will fit. And to my surprise they fit great! I have at least a fingers width around everything. So, for now I am just going to use the stock manifolds and save some money.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_142732-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_142742-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_142751-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_142802-1.jpg

And now it was time to see if we can get that shifter into the car, so I got out the sawzall and started cutting a little at a time. And I ended up with this.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_142843-1.jpg

I know that the cuts aren't that clean, but I will make some panels and weld them in to make it look good. The reason that I cut through the factory 4 speed hump is because it was already shot. You can't see it, but before I ever got the car someone tried to change the shifter and decided to crudely cut a hole in the side of the hump. So, for now I am just cutting it up, and will probably drill out the spot welds and patch in a new panel.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_142850-1.jpg

Now, a test fit of the console. Another surprise to me is that the shifter is very close to the stock location. Not sure what an auto console will fit like, but I may end up making an adapter for the shifter to have it come out in the factory 4 speed location.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_144209-1.jpg

As you can see it is only about 2-3 inches back from the stock location.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG_20121027_144224-1.jpg

That is all for now. Won't be long and I will be uploading a video of the first start up!

Ryan

[72blackbird]

Ryan,
Nice work so far- at least now you can keep your 76 TA and not sell it. You put alot of good, hard work into it.

Geno

[LeighP]

Nice work, mate.
So, the slots in the engine brackets????/ So you can adjust the fore/aft setting of the engine, I assume?

[ryeguy2006a]

Ryan,
Nice work so far- at least now you can keep your 76 TA and not sell it. You put a lot of good, hard work into it.

Geno

Geno, I have put a lot of work into the car, and I never really wanted to sell. But I had other obligations in my life. But, I rethought my decision and decided to try and put my 400/4 speed out for sale and just do the LSx swap that I really wanted. I came across this deal and couldn't pass it up. I can't wait to get the motor in and running!

[ryeguy2006a]

Nice work, mate.
So, the slots in the engine brackets????/ So you can adjust the fore/aft setting of the engine, I assume?

Leigh, you are exactly right, the brackets are adjustable to allow for the perfect placement of the motor. They are made by Dirty Dingo Motorsports, and they are a great company to work with.

[70Uglybird]

Nice work man!!! Moving right along! So just in case I ever do this what year are those exhaust manifolds that seem to fit with no problems?

Crazy how for this car has come......

[LUV2XLR8]

nice job so far... let me know if you run into any snaggs... i'm doing the same thing with mine

[ryeguy2006a]

The stock F-body manifolds are 98-99. I am going to remove the EGR ports from the manifolds in order to clean up the look.


nice job so far... let me know if you run into any snaggs... i'm doing the same thing with mine

Thanks man. I appreciate it. Do you have a build thread here?

[LUV2XLR8]

The stock F-body manifolds are 98-99. I am going to remove the EGR ports from the manifolds in order to clean up the look.



Thanks man. I appreciate it. Do you have a build thread here?


ya... it's called H8R-AID

https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?93786-H8r-aid

[Takid455]

for your shifter handle mod, look at viper and kit car cobra shifters for ideas. none will work for you build, but give you ideas on how/ what can be done and still be functional.

[ryeguy2006a]

Larry, I am still up in the air on what I am going to do. I am probably just going to buy an auto console and run the shifter in the position that it is currently in. I did look into making a remote shifter, but not sure I like the idea.

[70Uglybird]

While its only my opinion I have the T56 shifter with the auto console placement and it seems perfect.

[ryeguy2006a]

I did like the position of the shifter more with the shifter located 5-6 inches rearward. I will probably end up getting the auto console.

[Chadman27]

Nice work as always Ryan. Your thoughts on the shifter?... I'm shorter and have "shorter" arms (5'8" ish, on a good day) do you like the location, as in its a comfortable spot? Just trying to weigh opinions, I'm about to pull the trigger on my tranny setup. ...been factoring in a lot of opinions. I almost feel like wherever I end up, I l'll just make it work... but you know...

[ryeguy2006a]

Chad, Thanks for the compliments. I think that having the shifter location a few inches back actually makes a large difference. I prefer it much more than factory. If you have any questions, just shoot me a pm and I will be happy to help if I can.

[ryeguy2006a]

It doesn't look like a lot was accomplished, but it was certainly a lot of work. Pulled the motor out again, that was temporarily in the engine bay in order to mount my new engine mounts. With the mounts in the stock 350 location on the subframe, the mounts didn't quite fit. So what I did was got the engine exactly where I wanted it, and drilled my own holes.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121102_203615-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121102_203705-1.jpg

Here is the motor in the permanent location.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121102_214926-1.jpg

The Dirty Dingo mounts with new Anchor engine mounts for 1980-81 Camaro with 350 Chevy Engine.

Now, I would like to ask for everyone's opinion. The shifter is located farther forward than I was thinking, so using an automatic console would put the shifter too far forward. So my question to everyone, is what do you guys think of moving the stock 4 speed console rearward about 2-3 inches? Here is the console complete as it would look in the car. I was going to flip the upper mounting locations on the front 180 degrees, and it should give me enough room to still mount in the stock location. I plan to bend the shifter to fit more towards the center, as currently it is a straight shifter that is bent slightly towards the driver. Here are the pictures in 1st gear, neutral and 6th gear. Which are all the most extreme shifter positions.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121102_214838-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121102_214830-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121102_214818-1.jpg

Here are a few pictures of how the console looks in the proposed position.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121102_214854-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121102_214915-1.jpg

Here is what the difference is between the mount and where I plan to flip it 180 degrees and mount it in the stock location. Don't mind the wiring mess.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121102_214903-1.jpg

[ryeguy2006a]

I finally did enough research on the wiring for my car that I was able to start eliminating wires from my ECU and cleaning up the wiring harness. My goal is to make the engine ECU a stand alone harness. There are many companies that do this, but most charge around $500 to do. I have spend around 120 bucks for the Bussmann relay box and all of the metri-pack connections for a factory style feel.

I have decided that I will utilize the hole in the firewall that is behind the passenger side cylinder head to route the ecu inside the car. I think it will make for a cleaner build. I will also put my fuses and relay box inside as well. I plan to mount them behind the center console similar to where they were mounted in 1981 where the CCC was located.

I started by pulling the pin retainer caps off of the two large connectors that go to the ECU.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121103_092614-1.jpg

I got the factory Pin-outs online and took out the pins that were no longer needed, there were about 20 pins that I was able to take out of both connectors.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121103_092716-1.jpg

You can see all of the pins that I pulled back from the main bundle of wires.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121103_094550-1.jpg

Now, I am not sure why this was done, but the cam position sensor, had an extension connector with another 2 feet of wiring? So I de-pinned the connectors, and put the correct Cam Position sensor end on the pig-tails.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121103_105517-1.jpg

Here is where I am currently, and I am starting to bundle the wires and recreating my harness. I need to finalize the layout and hook-up the fuse and relays to make everything work correctly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121103_121254-1.jpg

And here is a pile of wires that I was able to delete for the system.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121103_121300-1.jpg

That is all for now. Lots more wiring to come.

Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I got some more wiring done today. I cleaned up all of the wiring in the engine bay, and routed the harness through an existing hole in the firewall. The ecu is going to be mounted in the on the trans hump. All of the wiring is final in the engine bay, and I still have a bunch of wiring I need to do inside the cabin. Here are some pictures from today.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121104_123906-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121104_131708-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121104_132746-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121104_132752-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121104_132801-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121104_132812-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121104_134038-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121104_134140-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121104_141031-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121104_145819-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121104_145831-1.jpg

All for now. The rest of the updates are going to be slow, since I will be doing the wiring nightmare. Not really, the wiring shouldn't be too bad, there is a lot of support from people that have done the swap before.

[Takid455]

look into F6 wire loom from wirecare.com. awesome stuff. Really cleans up the rats nest.

[eroc022]

MCMASTER CARR carries the same stuff... and it looks good, fyi, find a way to get an acutal mount there at your tunnel or you will be dealing with a computer sliding into the footwells....

[qnitro]

your a braver man than me...wireharness = SCARY

[Grim]

The stock F-body manifolds are 98-99. I am going to remove the EGR ports from the manifolds in order to clean up the look.



Thanks man. I appreciate it. Do you have a build thread here?

Why?


Taking the egr off will kill the economy. EGR does not hurt performance at all. When you floor it the EGR closes giving full power. It only opens at steady cruise. It delutes the air charge and then the O2 sees it as a rich condition and leans out the fuel. Taking it off could cost you as much as 20% fuel economy.

Great build thread. Really nice work.

[eroc022]

Why?


Taking the egr off will kill the economy. EGR does not hurt performance at all. When you floor it the EGR closes giving full power. It only opens at steady cruise. It delutes the air charge and then the O2 sees it as a rich condition and leans out the fuel. Taking it off could cost you as much as 20% fuel economy.

Great build thread. Really nice work.

I dont fully believe that, otherwise gm wouldnt have gotten rid of the majority of the external emissions systems... the intakes were cleaned up, etc.... and with a proper tune you can have the engine running clean enough for no egr needed...

[Grim]

I dont fully believe that, otherwise gm wouldnt have gotten rid of the majority of the external emissions systems... the intakes were cleaned up, etc.... and with a proper tune you can have the engine running clean enough for no egr needed...
Will it run clean without it. Yes but it's a larger fuel charge then is needed to maintain speed.
What motors are you talk inning about? Variable valve timing? Does the same thing as egr. Lowers the o2. Just a different way if doing it.
Most people fail to learn how a EGR works and have a very wrong idea that they rob power. When working correctly they do not hurt performance in the least. Leave them hooked up and save gas.

[ryeguy2006a]

your a braver man than me...wireharness = SCARY

So far the wiring hasn't been too bad. There is a lot of support on the web for these swaps. I will post up some details on what I am doing.

[ryeguy2006a]

Why?


Taking the egr off will kill the economy. EGR does not hurt performance at all. When you floor it the EGR closes giving full power. It only opens at steady cruise. It delutes the air charge and then the O2 sees it as a rich condition and leans out the fuel. Taking it off could cost you as much as 20% fuel economy.

Great build thread. Really nice work.

Thank you for the compliments! As for deleting the EGR, it is more for aesthetic purposes. I think that a cluttered engine bay is unsightly. I am routing all of my wires to that it hides as much as possible. And as far as fuel economy, if it really hurts me as much as you are saying I may hook it back up. There are so many people out there that have had the EGR deleted and tuned appropriately that are still getting mid 20's in mpg. I am not too concerned at this point, but might take it into consideration if it becomes a problem. I have HP tuners and can turn it on or off without costing anything but time. I didn't ruin anything when I deleted the system, so if I want it is just a matter of installing the components again and re-pinning the ecu.

[mdes0]

Cars is looking great man. What did you end up using for a trans cross member? I'm transplanting LS with manual 6spd out of an 06 GTO.

[70Uglybird]

Egr delete will not effect fuel economy noticable on and ls. If done it multple times and 2000 plus didn't have Egr from the factory with a slightly different cam.

[ryeguy2006a]

Small update from the weekend. I straightened out some more wiring. If you noticed my lump of wiring from before, I couldn't live with that. I needed to straighten it out and lengthen a few of the wires to get more of a straight shot for the wiring.

Before
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121104_134140-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121104_134038-1.jpg

During
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121109_233508-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121110_004417-1.jpg

After
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121110_180238-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121110_180245-1.jpg

Now that I have the wiring straightened out, I need to figure out the next step of my wiring which is my relay/fuse panel. I first need to figure out where I want to mount it, then route the wiring to the fuse panel. I am trying to replicate the factory wiring, by separating circuits in order to make it easier to trouble shoot malfunctions.

All for now.

Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Cars is looking great man. What did you end up using for a trans cross member? I'm transplanting LS with manual 6spd out of an 06 GTO.

I am going to flip my factory crossmember and weld in a new mounting location, or if I get ambitious I might make my own.

[monteboy84]

Will it run clean without it. Yes but it's a larger fuel charge then is needed to maintain speed.
What motors are you talk inning about? Variable valve timing? Does the same thing as egr. Lowers the o2. Just a different way if doing it.
Most people fail to learn how a EGR works and have a very wrong idea that they rob power. When working correctly they do not hurt performance in the least. Leave them hooked up and save gas.

False.

Sure, EGR doesn't hurt power, but removing it also doesn't hurt fuel economy. Yes, if you just remove the mechanical components your economy will suffer, the key is to correct the tune for EGR delete and your fuel economy will be just fine. I had planned to keep mine intact, but when I went to F-body manifolds with a truck intake, it became apparent that custom EGR plumbing would be required, which is not something I wanted to spring for. After much research I came to the conclusion that I shared at the beginning of this post: Removing the EGR has zero ill effects so long as the tune is corrected.

Very nice build btw, love the bird.

-matt

[oldguy]

Hi Rye Guy.

I saw you were having some thoughts on your shifter placement and the auto console. I posted up what we just did that should help you greatly. It starts at post 87. I could post the link, but just search by my user ID.

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks for the tips OldGuy. I will check it out.

[ryeguy2006a]

I am making progress, but it is much slower than I thought. I am taking my time with the wiring as I really only want to do it once.

I finally finished the wiring for the engine. I had to take the wiring harness out and lengthen a bunch of wires to allow the wiring to lay straight rather than bunched up as pictured before. I hopefully installed it for the last time, but time will tell. I still need to Loom the wires with covers, but I am not going to do that until I am 100% sure that the motor runs without any issues. Here is the finishing up of the wiring.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121117_170312-1.jpg

Here is a plug that I wired in to allow for easy removal of the harness if it became necessary. This harness will route all the wires to the relay box.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121117_170322-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121117_212724-1.jpg

And now the harness is finally installed!

Now, I started to think of what console I wanted to run. I bought an auto console for the swap, but wasn't sure if that was the look that I was after. Then for fun, I took the center console from the Camaro that I parted out and put it in place just for fun. To my surprise it actually fit quite well, and didn't look bad at all. I actually really like the way that it looks. I am going to either redye it black to match the rest of the interior or possibly wrap it in leather to give it the original texture.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121117_170431-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121117_170446-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121117_170350-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121117_170408-1.jpg

I really like the way that it looks, and it feels really comfortable. I really like where everything it located using that console. I will have to bend the shifter slightly, but gives a great feel overall.

Now it was time to start on the relay/fuse box that I bought. It is a very compact unit, that I want to place somewhere where it will be easily accessible, yet completely hidden. I thought about the glove box, just not sure that I like that.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121116_230357-1.jpg

Then I thought that if I am using the 97-02 center console, it would fit nicely below the upper console cover. It fits down in their and would allow for easy access if needed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121116_232756-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_20121116_232741-1.jpg

Although I haven't finalized the placement of the relay/fuse box, I still wanted to start wiring it up. I started off with my computer, diagrams, pinouts, tons of waytech wiring and a lot of luck. I haven't finished with all the relays, but the fuses are all finished.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121117_222656-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121118_163613-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121118_173007-1.jpg

And that is all from the weekend. Not too much visual progress, but a lot of solder wire and time. I still need to figure out where exactly I am going to put the relay/fuse box and then I can finally place it. I also need to build brackets for the ECU, new console, and relay box. Along with about 100 other things.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I have decided that I am going to use the 99 center console. It fits really great and will give the interior a little custom feel. And having cup holders won't hurt either.

Anyway, I got tired of wiring so I took a break and focused on other things. I started out by fitting my headers to the engine. I bought some mid-length *Mac headers. They are originally for a 98-02 Camaro so they had to be modified to fit. I had to notch the subframe in order for the passenger side to fit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_114924-1.jpg

Once it was notched it fits great. The picture makes the header look closer to the sub-frame than it really is.

The driver's side needed to be bent in towards the engine around 1 1/2" to clear the lower control arm mount. Now after wearing myself out by trying to pry the headers with a long bar and a torch, I realized that I need to work smarter and not harder. I put a ratchet strap around the motor/trans and slowly tightened the strap and heated the headers to make them fit tighter to the block and away from the lower a arm mount.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_010540-1.jpg

It is hard to see, but you can see there is about a 1/2" gap between the header and LCA mount.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_114948-1.jpg

And here is the motor with both headers on!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_115005-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_115012-1.jpg

I also had to notch the frame to let the Alternator fit. Since I slid the motor back I didn't have much clearance. I cut some small sections out and will weld in some steel to fill in the hole.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_010732-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_100756-1.jpg

I also finished up my transmission mount. I ended up flipping the cross member and cutting the mount off and re-welding it on. It fits great and I ended up putting it on the farthest stock mount on the sub-frame. So I didn't need to drill any new holes. This has been the easiest part of the swap so far! With the transmission crossmember finished, and the subframe notched for the headers I now have the the final placement for the motor.

It has been over 6 months since I have laid down a bead of weld so be easy on me. But by the end I got the hang of it. Just like riding a bike.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_131538-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_132611-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_131538-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_132625-1.jpg

And the finished product.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_145046-1.jpg

I still need to patch up the holes that I made for the alternator and header, so that will have to wait for another day. I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Ryan

[srh3trinity]

Strong work!

[70Uglybird]

Thank you for the pictures of the console. I've been thinking about doing this myself, although with an 00-02 Ebony console to match my 02 Trans Am seats. AWESOME. Really nice!!

[reedld]

Ryan,
Coming along nicely! Keep put the great work!

I considered using the 4th gen AUTO console....didn't fit as nicely as the manual one.


Leon

[ryeguy2006a]

Small visual update, but I got lots accomplished. I finished welding up the notches that I made on the sub-frame. Then ground it all down and sprayed on some duplicolor black paint so it won't rust. Lots of time welding, shaping and grinding that isn't seen.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121123_210121-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121123_213726-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121123_213736-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121124_004953-1.jpg

Then I made brackets to finalize the mounting of my new center console.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121124_005025-1.jpg

And here is the final position of the center console. When I am finished it will either get a black vinyl wrap, or painted black to match the interior. I am leaning towards the wrap, but I will decide at a later date.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121123_221618-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121123_221605-1.jpg

Smaller update this weekend, but a lot of time was spent planning and thinking about how best to accomplish what I want to do. Now that I have the brackets finalized, I need to patch up the hole that I made for the 6 speed shifter. Then I will be done welding and can focus back on wiring and the final installation of my engine!! Lots more to do, but having a bunch of fun doing it.

Cheers,
Ryan

[srh3trinity]

How does your arm sit on the console? I like how well that fits. I wonder how well an auto would work.

[70Uglybird]

Just for reference the console base for an auto is the exact same the difference is the insert. You could take that manual insert/boot and replace with auto insert. Hopefully that give you an idea on placement for an auto console.

[ryeguy2006a]

How does your arm sit on the console? I like how well that fits. I wonder how well an auto would work.

Your arm actually sits perfectly on the console. It is at the same level as the shifter, and it is a short grab to get the next gear and still keep your arm on the console. I like it a lot. Uglybird is right, the consoles are all the same, it is the upper console piece that is actually what is different and they easily swap out.

[ryeguy2006a]

I ordered my gauges last Friday from Speedhut. They had a 25% off sale that I couldn't pass up. I ordered all gauges for my car; Speedo, Tach, water temp, oil press, volt, fuel and a clock. I decided to order them all in the Tangerine color, and I think they will look killer with the carbon fiber panel in the background. I bought a beat up bezel a few weeks ago that I will use as a template and put a new piece of metal in and custom cut my gauges in. I am going to delete things like the HVAC and turning signals, then wrap the whole bezel in a 3M REAL 3D carbon fiber vinyl. The wrap looks just like the real thing. Once I get the gauges I will post up a picture of what they really look like, but for now here is a poor representation of my vision.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/TangerineCarbonFiberPanel-1.jpg

[qnitro]

the gauges will make a huge difference..

[72BBSwinger]

I have speedhuts in mine and they are real nice. Was a little sketchy about the GPS speedo but it has worked flawless for 1000 miles.

[ryeguy2006a]

Yeah, I opted for the standard speedo that runs off my VSS. I talked with the guys there and they said it was all about preference. They said though that what you do for the standard speedo, is calculate out a 2 mile stretch and then program the speedo for that 2 miles. Then you are done. Not that I didn't trust the GPS speedo, just like that I will have a hard wired speedo. I went with the Revolution speedo and tach, and the other gauges are speedhut standard series. Helped to keep the cost down, plus the only real difference is that the revolution gauges have warning lights. I can't wait to get them!

[72BBSwinger]

Heres mine, they are Revolutions as well

[carbuff]

I've been playing with gauge ideas for a long time for my project. I was originally going to use the Autometers as I did on my second gen Camaro, but the 5" tach and speedo are kinda large. Here is a layout I did with them:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/Gauges-1.jpg

I then discovered the Speedhuts, and I like them. Also like the price. :) I don't have the same picture, but I've been drawing it up in Visio, so here is a snapshot of a couple of my ideas:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/Gauges-1.gif

Enjoy your new setup!

[70Uglybird]

72BBSwinger how do you like the turn signals in the gauge...I'm considering those as well. I'm going graphite 3m Nic over trans am panel with silver face, black lettering, blue glow, white with white glow needle. Just ordered the tach with the 25% off today. Holding off on the GPS speedo to see if I need turn signals built in or not...

[72BBSwinger]

They do the job. I went that route mainly so I didnt need to put them in the dash panel anyway. Hi-beam indicator in the center is cool too. They make for a cleaner gauge panel IMO.

[ryeguy2006a]

Double post...

[ryeguy2006a]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/Gauges-1.gif


I really like that setup. Just so you know, the high beam and turn signals can have put in the speedo to clean up the bezel.

[carbuff]

Agreed, that is an option. I'm not sure that I really like them located in the speedo though. I'm still up in the air on that decision.

Oh, and it's hard to tell in the pictures, but the upper layout with the 200 MPH speedo is the 4.5" tach and speedo combination while the lower set with the 160 MPH speedo is the 4" set. And if it's not obvious, the 2 round black circles are the light and wiper switches. :)

[ryeguy2006a]

I didn't even notice that they were different sizes. I should have the gauges soon, and will be installing them within the next few months. Check back and I will have them installed for you to see what they look like.

[ryeguy2006a]

Well, I found a great deal and couldn't pass it up. DynaTech Muscle Maxx 2nd gen swap headers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/Dynamaxxheaders-1.jpg

[linzbach]

I really like that setup. Just so you know, the high beam and turn signals can have put in the speedo to clean up the bezel.

Oh man, and I thought I was the only guy who has spent hours configuring and reconfiguring my gauge layout :) I went with Speedhut too and love them. Good stuff.

[mdes0]

Can't wait to see how they fit.

[ryeguy2006a]

I don't think I will have any fitment issues. The Dynatech swap headers seem to be the best bang for the buck for 2nd gen Fbody.

[mdes0]

I'm hoping they fit tight to the floor like Lemons or Detroit Speed. If they do then I'd go the Dynomax route rather then pay the 1500+ on the other two.

[csouth]

Nice choice on the SpeedHut's. I've had mine for a while, but yet to install them. I wish mine were 25% off when I purchased...lol I had them send a sample of some colors and went with Kumuat, which was a little more muted than the Tangerine.

[ryeguy2006a]

I finally got done with what I had been putting off for so long... Welding in the floor pan extensions due to the new transmission being located towards the rear. I started out trying to weld in a piece of metal that my dad had laying around. That was a terrible decision. It didn't fit well at all, so I went to get some new 20 gauge steel panels which were the same size as my floor pans. That turned out much better than I even though. I was mostly putting this off because I didn't want to tear my interior apart. Which turned out to be not as bad as I thought originally.

First I had to remove the factory 4 speed hump as it was badly damaged.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121201_151017-1.jpg

Once that was removed, I could get a clear view of what needed to be welded in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121201_154549-1.jpg

Then I welded in the first new panel and cut around for the shifter to come through.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121201_173121-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121201_175647-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121201_190716-1.jpg

Then the other half of the panel to the rear fill all around the shifter. I painted the raw steel to prevent any rust and put my carpet back down.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121201_201118-1.jpg

I am glad that I got that done and over with. I was putting it off mostly because I wasn't sure how I was going to tackle the project.

Next on my list is to fully shave the firewall. I have decided that I don't like the way that the block off plate that I made, and it will look best with it fully shaved. While I am in there I am going to smooth off any imperfections and fill any holes in that I don't need.

That is all for now. I look forward to testing how the Headers fit that I just bought. I am hoping that they will fit with the engine in it's current position. If not, I am going to have to redo somethings...

Ryan

[LeighP]

Nice job, Ryan. :)

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks Leigh. I am just glad to be done with that portion of the build. I like fabrication, but I just wanted to move onto something else.

[ryeguy2006a]

I got another few mins in the garage on Sunday. I finalized the placement of the center console and the shifter. I had to make a pretty serious bend in the shifter and to my surprise, got it right on the money the first time just eyeballing it! It fits perfectly and shifts great. Once I get the seats in I will be able to see how comfortable it is to shift.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121202_194205-1.jpg

And here is the console fully bolted down with the shifter boot in place. Next step is to paint/wrap it to match my interior.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121202_191506-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121202_191452-1.jpg

I am very happy with the fitment and can't wait to get it painted/wrapped to see how it blends with my interior. I am still playing around with the placement of my fuse/relay box. I may just put it in the center console so it is very accessable, but still is up in the air.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121202_191358-1.jpg

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

It is time to shave my firewall. I wanted to add a something to my shaved firewall so that it wasn't just a large flat space. I took a 1/2" bead roll and put two parallel 16" bead rolls into the panel that I cut out of my 20 gauge steel. I took a cardboard template to check and see what it would look like. Here are some pictures. I am almost done with welding on this stage of my project, and look forward to that.

Here is what I started with.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/20121121_115012-1.jpg

And the process of making my block off plate.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_104456-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_110400-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_145640-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_154659-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_163314-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_165021-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_165030-1.jpg

Making sure that there was good penetration with the welds.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_165043-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_170136-1.jpg

And here it is with some gloss paint on it. I still need to add body filler in and make everything smooth, but for now I just wanted to put some paint on it just to see what kind of work I need to do in order for it to get it straight.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121208_170144-1.jpg

Thanks,
Ryan

[srh3trinity]

Looks good, I am taking notes for my firewall project.

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks, for the compliment. I by no means am a professional, so I am not sure I am the one to be getting your notes from.

[ryeguy2006a]

I finally got my Speedhut gauges!! I couldn't be happier. I love the way that they look. The gauges are a little lighter than they looked online, but still very happy and can't wait to get them all hooked up.

I also got a free t-shirt and decals.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121218_203041-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121218_201126-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121218_201106-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121218_203036-1.jpg

Here is all of the installation wiring and diagrams.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121218_201529-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121218_201517-1.jpg

Ryan

[srh3trinity]

Those look really cool.

[ryeguy2006a]

My dad Emailed me this picture that he took with his phone recently. It is me under the car taking out the headers for the last time on this Pontiac engine. Made me a little sad, well maybe not. :lol:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/photo-2.jpg

[LUV2XLR8]

dont have this finished yet???? hahaha... figured you be doing burn outs by now... let me know how the wiring goes.. happy holidays

[srh3trinity]

My dad Emailed me this picture that he took with his phone recently. It is me under the car taking out the headers for the last time on this Pontiac engine. Made me a little sad, well maybe not. :lol:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/photo-2.jpg
I doubt I will be that sentimentel when I swap my 2BBL Pontiac 350 for the LS3.

[ryeguy2006a]

I doubt I will be that sentimentel when I swap my 2BBL Pontiac 350 for the LS3.
I am certainly not, haha. Especially when I am pulling down 23-25 mpg on the highway with around 400 hp.

[ryeguy2006a]

Ok, so I have to say I hate when people don't do what they say. I will explain. As you will see earlier in my build, I bought a set of swap headers for my project. It has been over 3 weeks since I bought them and they haven't been received and I cannot get ahold of the seller. So, I filed a complaint and will get my money back... Hopefully anyway, shouldn't be a problem but you never know. Anyway, so I have been bummed out because I was looking forward to the Dynatech swap headers and I have since sold any manifold that I could use, I am without an exhaust. Or so I thought. I posted up a wanted ad on another forum, and within minutes I had someone respond to me. Speedway motors hasn't had the Dynatech headers since they went from 399.99 to 600.00 bucks, but they must have had a set that was returned because there was a pair in "Garage Sale" Section. They were having a 7.99 flat rate on shipping, so I got an almost brand new set of 600.00 headers a grand total of $377 shipped to my door.

I am very pleased with Speedway already. I placed my order at 12:58 pm and the order was shipped out UPS at 2:04 pm with a tracking number!! Talk about fast service!! They should be here around 12/26, so it will be a late Christmas present to myself! Here is the picture that they provided.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/AUP1372_L_17f62eba_zps8e1fc2a2-1.jpg

They look really nice!!

[ryeguy2006a]

dont have this finished yet???? hahaha... figured you be doing burn outs by now... let me know how the wiring goes.. happy holidays
I haven't had time to work on it, haha. I have been doing tons of burnouts and slamming gears, but then I wake up and realize that it still isn't done and is still in my garage on stands....

[srh3trinity]

I have the same headers. I am curious how they are going to work. I am using an aftermarket subframe, but I am hopeful they work with no mods and don't hang down too far.

[ryeguy2006a]

Just messing around last night and grabbed my stock bezel out of the car and threw the gauges into it. It actually doesn't look half bad, but not as good as it will look with the Carbon fiber look. I also wired them up breifly just to see what they look like, but didn't get a good picture of them.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121220_194120-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121220_194127-1.jpg

Not too shabby.

[70Uglybird]

Did they fit snug in the stock bezel? Are you wrapping the bezel or making new one? If your wrapping the bezel what are you doing to do about the turn signals to fill in?

They look great BTW when you first started talked Orange I was on the fence but kudos to you for doing something different and hitting a home run!

Bobby

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks Bobby, I appreciate the positive feedback. I will be making a new bezel and using the old one as a template. I am going to shave the turning signals and the HVAC with the intentions of running a Vintage Air controller in the future. Once all of my holes are cut, I am going to wrap the panel in 3D Carbon Fiber material from 3M. I think that it is going to look really good.

[ryeguy2006a]

Got a chance to get into the garage today. I was focusing on getting the firewall done so that I can get my engine in for a final fitment. I got all of the spot welds ground down and some filler put on to fill the imperfections. Not a whole lot to show for it, but was a lot of work. I still need to do a lot more finish sanding and then I can paint it. I am also going to finish the top of the cowl and fill in any dents and smooth everything out. I need to get my air compressor fixed so I can borrow some power sanding tools.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_111401-1.jpg

I feel like I am going backwards on this project sometimes...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_140752-1.jpg

I needed to get the stock ducting out from behind the dash, so I could better fit my components such as the LS1's computer. So, out goes the dash. Again. While it was out I took the liberty of modifying it for my other new 'mini' project... Delay wipers. Here is the motor I will be using.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121121_092906-1.jpg

One think that I never liked about the stock firewall was that huge wiper motor. So, I decided to do something about it. First I needed to decide how to I was going to control the wipers. I took the switch out of the stock 1999 Camaro column, and I am pretty sure that it is a common switch that is in many different models.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121222_163652-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121222_163658-1.jpg

Once it was out I cut off the aluminum bracket that was attached as I will no longer use it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_115746-1.jpg

Now, I needed to figure out how I was going to attach it near the stock position for the wiper switch. Not sure how it came to me, but this fits in there almost like it was made for it. Using the tab on the one end as a main anchor point, drill a small hole into the duct on the side near the stock location for the switch.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_141847-1.jpg

Once the hole is drilled, I also had to cut down the lower screw hole, and notch the one side of the opening for the switch to mount in there.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_115735-1.jpg

Once you have those small modifications done to your dash, the switch will fit in there very nicely.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_115758-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_115815-1.jpg

This won't be my final mounting, but for temporary I used a zip tie, which actually works quite nicely.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_070430-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_070435-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_115651-1.jpg

Since I had a few extra wiper switches, I gutted one and used the steel shell as a template for a bracket that I will make in the future. I will also make a decal for the actual functions of the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_070435-1.jpg

I used the stock turning signal switch from the 99 Camaro and cut off the end to use as my new switch. I will attach the stock knob onto the switch when everything is all done.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_115642-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_142558-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_142821-1.jpg

Here is the switch at rest.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_142920-1.jpg

And here is the switch at high speed function. As you can see the knob spins and will function just the same as the stock switch on the 99 Z28. It is very similar to the switch that DSE has for their delay wiper upgrade.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_142937-1.jpg

Now, this isn't the final product. But as a first test fit with the bezel on it clearly needs to be raised up in order to look normal in the off position. But here it is with the bezel in and in the stock position.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_143123-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121223_143128-1.jpg

The best part of this is that even if you wanted to do this swap and return your car to stock in the future you would be able to. Nothing that was modified will be able to be seen while the car is fully assembled. Everything that I have done on my car has been done with this thinking. Although my firewall was shaved, if the spot welds were drilled out the whole panel would come off and someone could put the stock heater box back on.

All for this weekend. Hope everyone has a Merry Christmas.

Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Ok, I got a little more done yesterday. It isn't a very time consuming modification, but is a very visual modifcation. Plus I was able to do this work inside where it is nice and warm. I wanted to see what the stock bezel would look like with the vinyl wrap I got from 3M and see how it would cover. I did a test fit and it looked pretty good and decided that it looked good enough not to justify custom making my own bezel. Maybe at a later date I will get a real piece of carbon fiber and make a custom piece like the write up in one of the threads on this site. Anyway here are some pictures of my test panel to see what the turning signals would look like covered up with just the wrap.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121226_135904-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121226_135917-1.jpg

I thought that it looked good enough to justify wrapping my bezel. So here we go.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121226_152917-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121226_153947-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121226_163810-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121226_163818-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121226_164916-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121226_165647-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121226_170722-1.jpg

I have been waiting for a long time to see what those gauges would look like against the carbon fiber and it was certainly worth the wait. I think that it looks great and I can't wait to see what it will look like with the dash back in the car. I just need to finish doing the wiring for the gauges while the dash is out, and then figure out centering my new wiper switch in the bezel and I think I will be good to put the dash pad back into the car and wrap my interior up.

I should be getting my headers today, but really depends on the weather. We got around a foot of snow last night so UPS will be a little behind today.

Cheers,
Ryan

[70Uglybird]

Ryan that looks great! Look forward to seeing the finished product. So can you tell the turn signals are behind there or is the film thick enough to hide it? I just got mine 3m film for christmas and ordered a piece of ABS but after seeing this I might try to do the same. Is the film easy to work with?

Thanks again for the update, really does look good!

[ryeguy2006a]

Sent you a pm

[ryeguy2006a]

Small update. I finally got my set of Dynatech headers. I ended up getting them from Speedway Motors, and they were absolutely great to work with. I am certainly going to work with this company again. The Headers were Garage Sale items, and they were at a nice discount and they were having a sale on their shipping for 7.99 flat rate shipping, so I got the headers for $377 shipped to my front door. And as garage sale items they said that the items may be dinged up or scratched, but they were in brand new condition. I am very happy with them. Here are some pictures.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121228_162616-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121228_162625-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121228_162220-1.jpg

And here they are installed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121228_222128-1.jpg

The headers hang a little lower than I would have liked, but time will tell on how they actually ride. I think with 300 pounds off the front end of the car, the springs will react differently so I may be surprised. Many people have these headers and don't have any issues with the headers scraping.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121228_222128-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121228_222527-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121228_222538-1.jpg

This is the great quality fitment.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121228_222551-1.jpg

And from the front, seeing those massive 1 7/8 primary tube headers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/20121228_222609-1.jpg

Overall I am very happy with the fitment and quality of these headers. Would recommend them to anyone.

Thanks,
Ryan

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Spent most of the day reading through this thread nice job..

[72blackbird]

Ryan,
As usual your work is top notch- have a Happy New Year and keep the pics coming.

Geno

[srh3trinity]

The headers fit nice. Remind me if your engine plates have any setback. I am wondering how they are going to fit with my custom subframe. I may want to raise my motor up a half inch to an inch to get better clearance.
Side note, I love the wiper idea. I may have to try that. I am sure I can get all of the parts out of the boneyard pretty easily.

[reedld]

Ryan, looking great! How are you planning to connect all of the gauges? I made a wiring harness that allows me to simply unplug all of the gauges with one plug. I used a late model GM stereo harness from a junk yard...connected that to all the 12v, ground, sources, etc. I then bought a stereo wiring harness (used when installing an aftermarket radio), connected all the gauges to that...worked nice for me.

[ryeguy2006a]

The headers fit nice. Remind me if your engine plates have any setback. I am wondering how they are going to fit with my custom subframe. I may want to raise my motor up a half inch to an inch to get better clearance.
Side note, I love the wiper idea. I may have to try that. I am sure I can get all of the parts out of the boneyard pretty easily.

It is hard to say whether or not the engine is set back, or by how much. I have adjustable engine mounts and I repositioned the subframe mounts. I would say that the engine is set back around 1" but there isn't a real good way to tell.


Ryan, looking great! How are you planning to connect all of the gauges? I made a wiring harness that allows me to simply unplug all of the gauges with one plug. I used a late model GM stereo harness from a junk yard...connected that to all the 12v, ground, sources, etc. I then bought a stereo wiring harness (used when installing an aftermarket radio), connected all the gauges to that...worked nice for me.

Leon, that is a great idea. I just so happen to have a 99 parts car that has that exact wiring. I will probably use that idea. I was planning on using some sort of harness that would allow me to remove the gauges simply with a plug.

[ryeguy2006a]

I got a little bit further on getting my firewall done. I have to admit, I am getting sick of body work. It isn't something that I do very often so I am quite slow at it, but I am slowly progressing. It is tough to get everything straight and looking good. I think, I am about 80% done with the firewall. I just need to do some more finish sanding, and it will be ready for final coats of paint. Anyway, here are a few pictures.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130112_152210-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130112_173018-1.jpg

And now for the interesting part. After quite a bit of research and going back and forth with my A/C options, I have decided to utilize the factory A/C compressor as it sits down low and won't be a eye sore in the engine compartment. So, in order for me to use the stock A/C compressor I needed to notch the frame. I will post up more on what I will have to do in order to use the factory A/C compressor. In a nutshell, the factory compressor is a variable load, and I need to convert it over to fixed in order to work properly with Vintage Air.

Please excuse the compressor and bracket being filthy. I didn't have time to

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130111_204428-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130111_204436-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130112_152215-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130112_173023-1.jpg

It ended up being much easier than I thought and I am so thankful that I bought adjustable engine mounts. I have changed the motors position at least a dozen times for different things. Now the motor is in its final position. Once I finish the firewall the motor will be put in for good, and not to come out for a long time. (Hopefully)

Here is a perspective picture of how quickly my garage filled up once I started stripping out two cars.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130112_174908-1.jpg

That is all for now.

[srh3trinity]

I have garage envy. Mine is filled up with an old bed, a friends furniture while he gets back on his feet, baby toys, etc. Car is looking good!

[batstang]

I have enjoyed, very much, this build! Awesome!

[Ravenworks]

Looking great! I love the wiper-switch idea and the gauges! What kind of car did the wiper-motor come from?

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks for all of the compliments. I am working really hard to get it finished and back together by the end of March.


Looking great! I love the wiper-switch idea and the gauges! What kind of car did the wiper-motor come from?

Wiper motor and switch both came out of a 1999 Camaro. It was a Z28, but I don't think that matters much.

[ryeguy2006a]

Ok, so I am sick of not making progress on my car due to lack of motivation. I have said it before, but I don't like doing body work. I am going to get it done this Friday no matter how long it takes me. *:-D

Here is what I will start with tomorrow, and some materials to get the job done.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130124_172027-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130124_172017-1.jpg

I bought some more parts for my car, so here is a sneak preview of what's to come. I am going to redo, my bezel, and I am going to use a woodgrain so I can weld and finish the underside to reapply some of the carbon fiber wrap again.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130124_171947-1.jpg

Lokar throttle cable.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130124_171908-1.jpg

Stainless Steel Dynatech Musclemaxx reducers

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130124_171843-1.jpg

And a new Spectra gas tank in order to modify for my 4th gen fuel assembly. More on that to come.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130124_171813-1.jpg

By the end of tomorrow I will have my firewall done and the engine in for final placement.

More to come, Ryan.

[ryeguy2006a]

Ok, well after a long night and some time today, I was finally able to get that firewall done. :-x After a difficult battle getting my garage from 30* to around 50 in order to paint, I was finally able to get some matte black paint on my firewall. Since it was in the single digits outside it was such an uphill battle. I had to have my kerosene heater running as well as my wood stove roaring at full boar. I was finally able to get to 55 and able to spray some paint.

It is a huge weight lifted off of my shoulders having this job done. It isn't perfect, but it is good enough for me. Overall I am happy with the way that it turned out. I still need to make a bracket for my new wiper motor to mount to the firewall, but there isn't any hurry for that. It doesn't look like a big update, but there are many hours into getting the firewall straight and filling in little imperfections.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130126_013641-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130126_120354-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130126_164557-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130126_165818-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130126_165825-1.jpg

Now that I am done painting the firewall, I need to clean everything up from all the sanding dust!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130126_165834-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130126_165844-1.jpg

When I get done with my sub-frame clean up I will bolt in the engine and transmission for good. Can't wait. One more step closer to hearing the car come to life again.

All for now.

[Chadman27]

Lookin good!

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks for the compliments.

[srh3trinity]

Make sure you document the gas tank conversion well. I am thinking about using a 70-73 gas tank so I don't have to recess anything for clearance issues. I may lose a couple of gallons, but I think that is a worthwhile swap if I don't have to fab up any special recess.

[ryeguy2006a]

Seems like most of my updates have been parts updates, but I plan to get some time in the garage this Friday and Saturday so I am hoping to make some real progress. These are hopefully the last two large components for my LS1 swap! I am sick of spending money.

Here is the Vetteworks Kit that will allow me to use my 1999 LS1 Fuel Pump Assembly. It was a nice touch that they laser engraved the panel on the top. Also came with a full set of color installation instructions.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130129_193713-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130129_193707-1.jpg

And the other is a Universal Painless wiring harness that I got from Mrbandit. Great guy to deal with. It is an 18 Circuit harness with provisions for power windows, locks and other accessories. He gave me a great deal on it and my next project will be fully wiring my whole car. I am actually excited to do because I like the challenge of wiring and getting everything to work properly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130129_193653-1.jpg

And a big box of wires for the rest of the wiring.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130129_193658-1.jpg

Cheers,
Ryan

[srh3trinity]

I have a nice upstairs bedroom that you could sleep in for a week if you like to re-wire 74-76 Firebirds and need a project after you finish yours. I found a 76 on Craigslist the other day and I am very tempted to pick it up and use some parts off of it for my 74.

[ryeguy2006a]

I guess we will see how much I like wiring after I get finished with my car, lol.

[ryeguy2006a]

The motor is finally in!!! I am excited to have the motor in for good as it is one huge step towards getting my car back together. To me this is a big deal because now, I can do many of the little projects as I get time. Once the motor was in finally for about the 20th time, I started on some of my other larger tasks. Here are some pictures.

Before I could put in my motor I wanted to clean up the sub-frame and freshen up the paint. I painted some of the steering linkages to break up all of the black. Here is what I started with and here is what I ended up with.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130126_165834-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130201_234037_zpsa206f514-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130201_234046_zps430d4c77-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130201_234051_zps9df233d9-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130201_234059_zpsae952449-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_003830_zps95483d16-1.jpg

Now that the sub-frame is all painted up it is ready for the motor. *:grin:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_110055_zps2de33233-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_110107_zps1abb3d1c-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_120055_zpsb41811ac-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_125301_zps9331bf12-1.jpg

Here is the wiring mess that I have to look forward to! And as a side, I am still up in the air about what center console to use. I really like the way that the 99 console looks, but where the shifter comes out, may not be comfortable. When I had the full interior in with the transmission in its current spot, with the straight shifter shown with the stock tan console, the shifter was very comfortable. I feel that it may be a reach for the 99 console. For now, I am going to focus on the wiring.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130201_234111_zps8aae0c01-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_210031_zps0bfc4669-1.jpg

I put in the clutch hydraulics bracket on and got my clutch test fit. It is amazing how easy things can be with the right parts. The bracket is from DSE and it is made specifically for the LSx swap which allows you to bolt on the stock slave cylinder and puts it at the correct angel. All I had to do to modify the firewall slightly and drill another hole in the clutch petal. The bracket sandwiches between the firewall and the brake booster.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_110107_zps1abb3d1c-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_111148_zps95ca40af-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_111157_zpsad993317-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_120045_zps39ee4ade-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_210037_zps01c70c7c-1.jpg

I drilled my one hole in the firewall for my engine wiring. I laid out the wiring where it will roughly go, and will eventually loom up the harness and get everything looking clean.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130202_125301_zps9331bf12-1.jpg

I feel like accomplished quite a bit this weekend and I feel great because I am not starting to bolt things back onto the car rather than tearing them off or modifying. I should have the car fired up within the next month. I hope to have it running by the end of the month.

Thanks for looking.

Ryan

[mdes0]

Nice work man.

[zamora7]

Great looking car and awesome work you do. Just read all 11 pages and will be following closely as I near the start of my second gen swap.

[Ravenworks]

Gotta feel good to get to the assembly phase! Congrats!!!

[ryeguy2006a]

Gotta feel good to get to the assembly phase! Congrats!!!

Thanks for all of the positive feedback. I am really looking forward to the assembly phase! What I am most anxious to hear is my exhaust notes.

[ryeguy2006a]

No really huge progress, but I couldn't sleep last night so I went in the garage for a few hours to clean up and package up some parts I sold. After I finished cleaning up, I looked over at my wiring mess and thought to myself, "What have I done now..."

I sat down and started looking at the wiring and started placing bundles of wires where they would go. Once you break the wiring down into sections it really isn't as intimidating as it looks. Each wire is labled "radio section" or "lighting section" so it is very difficult to mess up. The biggest task is going to be figuring out the wiring diagrams for my stock car, because the wiring is a universal harness, everything is un-terminated and you have to re-use the stock connectors. Which isn't a big deal for me. I like the idea of upgrading to the blade fuses with newer technology. Over the next few weeks I will be blending the Painless harness into my car, and integrating with the factory LS1 engine harness. As well as adding my Speedhut wiring, as some gauges have their own sensors. (oil pressure, coolant temp)

Here is the mess a little more organized and the engine a little more complete.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130211_223426_zpsa3961212-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130211_223412_zps8ba22923-1.jpg

I will get some better pictures, and some better updates soon. My wife will have to start working on Saturdays starting Feb. 23rd so I will have a lot of Saturday's to get the car back together.

All for now.

[ryeguy2006a]

It is difficult to capture what I have done through pictures as I have been doing a lot of wiring. I did find a final place for my ECU, and I am really happy how well it is hidden. I mounted it in the vacant pocket where there used to be a vacuum operated flap for the A/C. I used a modified ecu bracket from the 99. I removed the insulation that was glued into the cup and slightly trimmed the back of the cup. Here are some pictures.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130216_162948_zps026dcd71-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130216_165242_zps47b2d43b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130216_165400_zpsd6baf222-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130216_165405_zps4bd12219-1.jpg

That is all for now. I am hoping to start up the car within the next month... We will see if that happens.

Cheers,
Ryan

[yellow1098Greg]

rye, awsome stuff....I followed this whole thread and all your info on the TA country site and im about to start a project here on my 77 without ever doing it before. Im gonna pull the dash and carpet and all....did you have any info on a step by step process on this? or did you just dive right in your first time?

[ryeguy2006a]

rye, awsome stuff....I followed this whole thread and all your info on the TA country site and im about to start a project here on my 77 without ever doing it before. Im gonna pull the dash and carpet and all....did you have any info on a step by step process on this? or did you just dive right in your first time?

I don't have any step by step on removing the dash, but it is fairly straight forward. There are two main bolts on the lower ends of the dash, behind the gauges, there are 2 or 3 screws holding the dash on, and remove the glove box and there are three nuts holding the dash on. Other than those, just carefully remove all the components bolted to the dash and it should come right out. Also, it makes it a little easier if you take the wiring and dash out all at once. Thanks for the compliments.

[ryeguy2006a]

Again, not much for visual progress for an update, but I got most of my custom wiring done. It was difficult figuring out all of the wiring schematics and finding a way to splice them all together, but in the end it turned out great. I was able to get all of the relays and fuses hooked up for my LS1 harness and was able to splice it all together and blend well. It helped once I found a good easy to read relay diagram, which I can share if anyone needs.

I was able to mount the relay box in the glove box for easy access, while not taking up too much room. I have also been trying to think ahead at any future modifications that I may want and wiring them in now. I brought in a constant main feed into the cabin for any future electronics. I wired in the trunk release and ran that to the trunk so I can finally hook up the auto release button. Here are the few pictures that I took.

A lot of my time was dedicated to making the mess of wires manageable and neat. I decided to use zip ties rather than electrical tape because it is much easier to cut a zip tie and replace rather than trying to tape and retape everything.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130223_234857_zps7084d063-1.jpg

Trying to make all the wiring neat and easy to read.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130223_163345_zps255182ee-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130223_144745_zps3bb4f8a5-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/02/20130223_144802_zpse2842d42-1.jpg

I also started to wire up the tail lights and trunk release. There was a lot of custom wiring and although, I don't have much to "show" for it, there was a lot of progress made. In reality, the fuse block I wired up only accounts for about 20% of the wiring, but due to its complexity takes up majority of the time. I am about 70% done with my wiring now, since most everything will be very easy to splice and solder together.

[cdoggy81]

nice job so far!

[ryeguy2006a]

I got some more wiring done yesterday. It isn't completely done, but is getting close. I got all the wiring done for the trunk, which has provisions for a third brake light, power antenna(or amplifier remote), and one other thing I can't remember. lol I finished my wiring for all my Speedhut gauges and wired in connectors for ease of removal. I soldered all the joints and shrink wrapped all connections for longevity. I don't want to have to redo everything in the future.

Here is the wiring in the trunk with the connection.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130303_205300_zps070df93d-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130303_205248_zps38d52951-1.jpg

I didn't realize that I was going to have to take out almost all of my interior just to get the wiring routed to the trunk...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130303_205328_zps51e1bb05-1.jpg

I started with this mess and had to sort, solder, and heat wrap every connection. Doesn't sound like a lot of work, but very tedious to do, although I am having a lot of fun.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130301_190100_zps964458d7-1.jpg

This is the type of connection that I used for the gauges.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130301_190125_zpsdbf0c75f-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130303_202128_zps9e59b0ec-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130303_202119_zpsbf24db3c-1.jpg

Here are my gauges installed and one with them lit up at night. I am not sure if Speedhut made the speedomoter brighter than the rest because that is the most important gauge, or if it was a mistake. I need to call them to verify, but all other gauges are the same brightness. The gauges also have a rheostat controller to control the dimmer. *

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130301_182058_zps8204dc5f-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130302_110212_zps7d54173a-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130301_182110_zps0a9b6a43-1.jpg

All for now,

Ryan

[srh3trinity]

Wiring would stress me out. I like the look of the dash though. Your gamble on the guages turned out to be dead on.

[ryeguy2006a]

Wiring would stress me out. I like the look of the dash though. Your gamble on the guages turned out to be dead on.

Thanks, I really appreciate it. I am very pleased with the gauges. As for wiring, it really isn't bad at all. I have just grouped everything into sections, and worked from there. Started with the steering column as the focal point, and worked out from there. I just need to finish up the dome lights, headlight switch, and radio adn the interior is done. Then I just hook up my headlights and some gauges and the wiring is all done.

[Ravenworks]

Here are my gauges installed and one with them lit up at night. I am not sure if Speedhut made the speedomoter brighter than the rest because that is the most important gauge, or if it was a mistake. I need to call them to verify, but all other gauges are the same brightness. The gauges also have a rheostat controller to control the dimmer. *
Ryan

I'm loving the gauges, are the LED lit or do they use bulbs?

[ryeguy2006a]

To be honest, I am not sure. They must be led since they have such a compact design. Everything is internal, so it is inside the case.

[Ravenworks]

To be honest, I am not sure. They must be led since they have such a compact design. Everything is internal, so it is inside the case.
Probably, if they were bulbs they would have a separate pig-tail coming out of the backs and access to the bulb.

[ryeguy2006a]

Well there is a pigtail, but the kit came with a daisy chain style connectors to hook them all together. They are a great company to work with, I am happy with them so far. Once I get the car running I will be able to tell how accurate the gauges are and how I like them. I did test our the voltmeter and that works.

[ryeguy2006a]

Small update from last night. My wife had to work late, and for a change I didn't so I got a few hours of garage time. I decided to get the dome lights wired up, so I could put the interior panels and rear seats back together. It wasn't too bad other than trying to fish the dome lights through the headliner without taking it off. I managed to get a wire through the dome light hole, just need to solder the connections to the dome light and install.

Went from this

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130303_205328_zps51e1bb05-1.jpg

Back to this

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130305_202034_zps082c3c47-1.jpg

Here are the dome light wires ready to be soldered.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130305_202045_zps720a3ca3-1.jpg

I also for got to show this over the weekend. I bought a piece of 1/4" sheet aluminum to make a bracket to hold my new wiper motor that I will be converting to. I still need to wire up the switch and make the bracket, but I will be swapping on my 99 Camaro wiper motor.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130305_202224_zpsf06f675a-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130305_202231_zps2d385dbe-1.jpg

All for now. I am hoping to get some time out in the garage this Friday too. I gotta get this thing running soon, the warm weather is on the way!!

[howehot]

Looking great. This is where all the little and tedious task take FOREVER.

[ryeguy2006a]

You are telling me. Wiring is taking much longer than I thought...

[ryeguy2006a]

Sorry, I forgot to update this from last weekend. I was doing a lot of trial and testing of wires and sensors, although I did take a lot of pictures. The one large thing that I did complete was that I got my fuel tank modified to accept the LS1 Fbody fuel pump assembly. The full write-up can be seen in the LSx swap section of the site here > http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=56613.0

Here are some pictures of the before and after.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/01/20130124_171813-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130309_171540_zps0b39e4b0-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130309_172614_zpsc0564aa6-1.jpg

It is important to think of how the fuel pump assembly needs to be clocked in order to get the fuel level sender to read properly, I will get to that in a min. With my Speedhut gauge, I needed to flip the fuel float from one side to the other so it will read correctly. The stock sender reads 40-240 ohms, and my gauge reads 240-33 ohms. So, it would be opposite if I left it stock. But I just took out the float assembly and flipped it to the other side by bending it 180* and it reads properly.

The arm simply unclips from the sensor, and just needs to be bent. I took some before pictures of the arm at full and empty positions so I could get it the same.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_171149_zps48e05864-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_171201_zps79403db9-1.jpg

And after it was modified, how it looks. I hooked up my gauge to the sensor and it reads properly full/empty/middle/etc.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_192536_zps9b8ef111-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_171832_zpsddbe7fdd-1.jpg

Now, to show the importance of having the fuel lines clocked properly. It is hard to tell from the picture, but with the fuel assembly clocked pointing directly towards the fuel neck, the sender will have plenty of room for a full range of motion. There may have been other ways to attempt this, but I decided to go with this direction.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_192532_zpsddec2f26-1.jpg

I haven't fully completed the final assembly of the fuel pump assembly, but will be doing so in the near future. It is also important to note that the kit also requires a tank seal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_192549_zpsf7c697fa-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_192557_zps01b1b0eb-1.jpg

Onto my other project. I went back and forth between fuel lines with three different options. Stainless hardline vs. NiCopp hardlines vs. Nylon lines. After much research I concluded the following. Of the three I found that it was a tie between Stainless, NiCopp(European Nickle Copper Iron mix), and Nylon lines for longevity. When it came to Function NiCopp lines and Nylon won over stainless due to the difficulty of getting the stainless to seal properly as well as difficulty of bending. And when it came to the price, Nylon won as it only costs about 40 bucks for fittings and lines. As opposed to Stainless and NiCopp which cost around 200 all in. And with Nylon you can make your own tool to press in the fittings. So, I went with Nylon lines and will report back on how they work. I have a buddy that used Nylon on his LS1 swap and he hasn't had any troubles with it.

I bought a roll of 25 Ft. of 3/8 Nylon tubing from Dorman, 2 Straight quick connect fittings, and 10 pack of 3/8 All-Star insulated clamps. Cost: 40 bucks on Amazon.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130309_075031_zps7284dcc9-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_113329_zps1b85af1c-1.jpg

Now, rather than spending $60 plus on the actual installation kit, I found that you can actually do the same thing with a flaring tool kit, calking gun, large nut, and some patience. I didn't get any pictures, but there are many write-ups to this online to choose from.

Here is the tubing before and after. Important to note, that you need to cut the line to get the end very straight. I used a fresh razor blade. Then press on the fitting with a little dab of oil.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_113256_zps76d21940-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_113205_zps2b9fb49a-1.jpg

Here is what it looks like on the engine. Very clean stock look. I like it a lot.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_113746_zpsfb8dc9ef-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_113740_zpsa274ec72-1.jpg

I need to figure out my next step. I need a fitting that will go from this fitting pictured below, to the quick connect fitting Pictured above.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130310_163737_zpsc5b12306-1.jpg

I am not sure if I can just use a NPT fitting with some thread tape and that will seal enough for 60+psi or not. Professional Products makes a NPT to quick connect adapter that will work perfectly, just need to do more research.

Thanks,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Well, the part was $18 Dollars, so I guess I will give it a shot. This is the part that I bought. I used to play paintball, and I would use the NPT with tape and it would hold up to 800-1000 psi, and the CO2 was liquid. I am going to give it a shot and see what happens. I couldn't find a line that has a quick connect and the oring based end on the other side. I have a good feeling that this will work just fine.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/31R9IRNcGiL__SS500__zps64d3df04-1.jpg

[79goldta]

To bad you did not see this before you started wireing.
great build watching over on TAC
http://blogs.hotrod.com/wire-less-ls-efi-from-msd-sema-2012-39341.html#axzz2NYMd94JD

[79goldta]

did you see this product?
good build watching on TAC also
http://blogs.hotrod.com/wire-less-ls-efi-from-msd-sema-2012-39341.html#axzz2NYMd94JD

[Ravenworks]

Great job, again! I'll be using nylon fuel/return lines on my Firebird as well. The only thing I would add to what you've done is form some bends in it with hot water and I'd use Gates thermoplastic clamps on the ends where the push-lock fittings are.
Again, this build is looking great!!!

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks Russ, I hope to get it started here soon. I need to finish the wiring and move on to finish the gas tank and fuel lines. I am not done with the lines and I will do like what you were saying and put some bends in it with some hot water. I want to route it behind the power booster so it is more hidden. I only installed the fitting on one side of the nylon fuel line.

[ryeguy2006a]

Very small update. I did a lot of work in the garage, but it is all just wiring. I must admit, I am a little burnt out on wiring, but it is definitely nearing the end. All I have left is to wire up the neutral safety switch, Back up lights, add in a few grounds, fuel pump and fuel level wire and give some power to the remote trunk switch and we are good to go inside the car. The other obstacle is going to be my delay wiper wiring, which shouldn't be too bad. I have all the wiring diagrams and have tested everything and it works great. I look forward to getting all the wiring done, then it is on to plumbing. :lol:

Here is the one picture I took yesterday. This is my delay wiper motor and switch wired up crudely to test everything for functionality. Click the picture for the video of the functions.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/th_20130317_141136_zps32aaf4ec-1.jpg (http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m215/ryeguy2006a/20130317_141136_zps32aaf4ec.mp4)

Oh, and I cranked the car for one second to see if the starter was wired up correctly. Oh, it was such a tease as I am getting very close to firing it off. Very soon.

Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I thought this may be worth a quick update. I have been keeping my eyes out for a rear end for my car with 3.73 gears for a while since finding a rear with the gears in it is much cheaper than buying the gears and doing it yourself. So, I was checking craigslist and found an ad "10 bolt Chevy rear", so I checked it out just out of curiosity. Turns out that the rear is out of a 79 Camaro, and had 3.73 Richmond gears, an Auburn Posi Diff. and the best part is it didn't have any miles on it! The guy that I bought it from bought the 79 to part out. The 79 was someone's project that was never finished. Engine, trans, and rear were all new and the car was just never finished. His loss, my gain. Oh, best part. I got the rear for some old traction bars and $225 bucks!! :smoke:

Just to be safe, I am having the guy I bought it from contact the original owner to see who installed the rear diff and gears. If he did it himself, I will pay someone to set the gears correctly, but if a reputable shop installed them I will just take my chances. I also want so pull the axles and check the bearings and etc. for wear.

I picked up the rear in my parts hauler Mustang GT... :cheers: I guess that's what happens when you find a good deal, you have to improvise.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130321_175714_zpsc8aa40b7-1.jpg

EDIT: more pictures.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130321_215524_zps232bba59-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130321_215533_zps1731e131-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130321_220153_zpsd500c326-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/20130321_220219_zps8fbec2b2-1.jpg

[ryeguy2006a]

It has been a few weeks since I made any really good update, and unfortunately still no big update. I am inching closer and closer to getting the car to fire up, but have hit many snags along the way. My first big obstacle was finding a fitting that would allow me to use the stock fuel lines from the 99 Z28 and allow me to run the nylon fuel lines from the block to the fuel rail. So, after many parts that didn't work, I decided that having the part made would solve many of my problems. I needed an o-ring based fitting on one end and a GM/Chrysler Quick Connect on the other. To my knowledge, no one makes such a fitting. I took it to a local shop in Binghamton, NY and they made it for me for 10 bucks. That allowed me to connect the the nylon lines to the Tee fitting on the stock lines. Solved that issue.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130328_200253_zpsb38a92b0-1.jpg

Next, issue had to deal with my fuel tank, not so much the lines. I was still going back and forth between how I wanted to solve my fuel level sender issue. Originally I planned on using the stock 4th gen sender, but due to some functionality issues I changed my mind. Then I thought about my original sender. It worked fine, but I had heard that it may contact the fuel pump assembly. So, I decided to check on my own, and to my surprise it had about an inch of clearance! I cut off the pick-up off the bottom, removed the vent tube, welded the hole for the vent tube, and welded the pickup tube. I needed to keep the pick-up tube in order to keep the sender in the stock location. It also solved my issue of what to do with the sender hole on the tank.

Here are some pictures of the modified sender and the clearance with the Vetteworks kit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130329_181437_zpse932caab-1.jpg

Now, you see it. (Picture is taken at an angle)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130329_181412_zpsb65c1004-1.jpg

Now you don't. (Picture was taken straight up and down.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130329_181418_zpsc7fb1ffe-1.jpg

Here is the tank all together waiting to go back into the car for a test fit. I still need to somehow lower the tank roughly 1" to clear the fuel pump assembly out of the top. Looking back I should have just recessed the top of the tank slightly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130329_181526_zps3d8c9e18-1.jpg

What I didn't take a picture of was how I have the tank setup currently. I wired the pump up and plumbed the car to check for leaks with the tank sitting next to the car on the ground. I wanted to check for leaks without having to be under the car. It worked very well, just unusual I guess. Good news was there were no leaks in the fuel system. That means I can move forward with getting the tank in place and finalize the fuel lines. I need to heat and bend the nylon lines in order to fit around components and look good.

When I went to start it this weekend, to my disappointment I have a wiring issue with the car. I need to trace back the wiring that I did and find out what I did wrong. Luckily, I was able to narrow it down to my relay box that I made for the car. I had a lot of late night wiring, so I will blame it on that. :cool: I am getting home early tomorrow night and hope to possibly solve the issue. On a good note, I was able to use HP Tuners to unlock my ECU and delete my VATS, rear O2 sensors and disable my AIR. Then I uploaded that tune to my ECU. Really cool program and I really look forward to using it to the full potential.

Hoping to have the car started very soon.

[ryeguy2006a]

It finally runs!! I had some issues with the tune, as I needed to delete some of the stock systems on the car. Such as the VATS, EGR, A.I.R. Pump, and rear O2 sensors. I thought I had a large wiring issue, but it ended up being a poor ground to the engine. After I flashed the new tune on the car and got the ground figured out the car started up and idled. I was alone, so I couldn't get a video, but once the radiator is hooked up and I can let it idle for more than a few seconds I will get a video posted up.

Here is a picture of how the car was set up to test the fuel lines and fuel pump. It is a very temporary setup, but works to get the car running and allowed me to check for leaks without being on my back under the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130405_194255_zps41c5d4bc-1.jpg

Also, here is the the fitting that I got to adapt the temp sensor to the block. Some people tap the block, but I didn't want to do anything irreversible.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130405_194309_zps5fd74e72-1.jpg

I didn't work on the car very long, but I feel like I got a huge step forward. I am really happy to have the car running!! I hope to get a little work done tomorrow as well. I hope to get the tank in the car tomorrow and the fuel lines fully routed. Time will tell.

[ryeguy2006a]

I got a little more done on Saturday, so I thought I would post it up. I finally was able to get that gas tank installed. After fighting with it on my back for an hour trying to make the spacers work, I had enough. I went with my original plan and cut an access panel in the trunk. Since I have already pissed off the purists with the LS1, how much more angry can they get, right? Anyway, it worked great and I will be able to change fuel pumps very easily in the future.

Please excuse the mess in the trunk. I am still figuring out wiring for my fuel pump and fuel sender and the trunk has become a nice hiding spot for parts waiting to go back on the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130406_181046_zps94fd65df-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130406_181041_zpsec9490e2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130406_181019_zps497a9c4e-1.jpg

After I got the tank fitted in it's final position I got the fuel lines ran. If you guys don't remember I will refresh your memories. I went with Nylon fuel lines due to the cost and their compatibility with today's fuels. Now, I want to first say that it is very easy and difficult to work with. I will explain. The fittings require the use of the GM/Chrysler Quick Disconnect lines that I have shown before. They are supposed to be pressed into the lines by using a repair tool (or the calk gun method) or by dipping the line in boiling water and forcing it in. I used the calk gun method and it was easy to work with. The fittings very easily were pressed into the line by using a flairing tool to hold the line and a dab of oil to help the fitting slide in a little easier. The hard part of working with the lines is they can very easily kink. I found the best method for working with it was working slowly and applying a little heat from a heat gun to carefully work the lines. I routed the lines in the factory location, with the acception of the fuel filter which I put where the tranverse muffler used to live.

I didn't want to get under the car as I was under their enough on Saturday. Maybe if I get ambitious someday I will take some photos, but you get the idea. Here are some pictures.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130406_181149_zpsc590178d-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130406_181118_zpsa323f155-1.jpg

Overall, I was very pleased with the nylon and would do it all over again if I had to. Once everything was installed, I tested the system again with no leaks. Overall very successful day. My main issue today is figuring out my tune. I need to go through and delete all the systems that I took off of the stock motor such as VATS, A.I.R., CAGS, EVAP, and rear O2 sensors. Once that is finalized, I am going to reflash that tune to my ecu and see how she runs.

I also picked this up the other day. It is a mirror with a compass and outside temperature built into it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/Mirrorandsensors_zps2b9a1c5f-1.jpg

All for now, Cheers.

[srh3trinity]

I am jealous, you are getting close. My motor is going to the machine shop next week. I won't have much excuse after it gets finished up to really tear into the car. I think I am going to use a 70-73 tank and that way I will have room for all of the lines since that tank is flatter and my 74 trunk has the same offset bulge as yours does.

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks, I can't wait to get it running really well. I modified my tune, and need to upload it to make sure that it works properly. As for the tank, If I was to do it again, I would have notched my stock tank and lowered the adapter to sit flush with the top of the tank. If you plan on using a 70-73 tank you can use the Spectra EFI Tank that already has an EFI pump in it. You will also need to fiture out a spacer for the hump.

[srh3trinity]

I have thought about notching one too. The Spectra tank seems to get mixed reviews. It seems like somebody was coming out with a plug and play First gen tank, but they hadn't done a second gen tank yet. I figure when they do, it will be a 70-73 tank.

[qnitro]

Man, lots of good work!! Looking good.. you and I will be finished right around the same time.. :) My brakes and Hydraulic clutch are done.. Im hoping to do a road test on this Saturday or Sunday

[ryeguy2006a]

I have thought about notching one too. The Spectra tank seems to get mixed reviews. It seems like somebody was coming out with a plug and play First gen tank, but they hadn't done a second gen tank yet. I figure when they do, it will be a 70-73 tank.

Spectra already has a plug and play 70-73 tank

[ryeguy2006a]

Man, lots of good work!! Looking good.. you and I will be finished right around the same time.. :) My brakes and Hydraulic clutch are done.. Im hoping to do a road test on this Saturday or Sunday

Kevin, you will be done way before me. I am hoping to have mine done by the end of the month but that may be a stretch.

[ryeguy2006a]

I made a lot more progress this weekend towards getting the car back on the road. And what everyone has been asking for, finally a video of the car running to prove that I really did get it running. I will start with the things that lead up to me getting it running for more than just 30 seconds.

In preparation for the rear disk brakes I will be running and the front brake upgrade I have currently. I needed to upgrade my wheel studs. Since it is going to cost the same, I decided to upgrade to the 1/2 ARP studs with open face Gorilla lugs. With these I will be able to get full lug nut thread engagement, and will more than likely trim the extra length off of the lugs for a cleaner look. I will need to pull my hubs and axles off and drill out my holes in a drill press and then have the new studs pressed into place. Also, what isn't shown is the wheel spacers that I bought for the front. With new brake pads in the front, the caliper would be pressed out too far and contact the spokes of my wheel. The spacers are slightly more than 1/4" so it shouldn't affect the fitment of my front wheels too drastically.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130412_212631_zpsd41f4520-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130412_212631_zpsd41f4520.jpg.html)

After much research and going back and forth, I decided that the most effective way to deal with the steam ports on the LS1 was to route the coolant through to the water pump. I had to drill and tap my water pump for 1/8" NPT and will put in a 90* barbed fitting and re-routed the steam coolant passages to the water pump. On the stock coolant system in the Camaro, the coolant was routed throught the throttle body, then to the radiator. So, by not having 200* coolant flowing through my throttle body, I should pick up ~5 HP and it makes for a cleaner look. And for those that may ask, there is no interference with the throttlebody or cable.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130412_220227_zps10edf8a4-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130412_220227_zps10edf8a4.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130412_220940_zpscfd1f796-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130412_220940_zpscfd1f796.jpg.html)

Due to the way that the LS1 motor is setup, I had to relocate my battery to the passenger's side. Great thing about the way that GM made our cars, is that the core support is symetrical, so it just bolted in. Always cool when stuff like that works out! :cool:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130413_021624_zps2fe62fce-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130413_021624_zps2fe62fce.jpg.html)

One other obstacle that I had gone back and forth with was what to do about my power steering pump and lines. The LS1 has metric fittings on the lines, and the stock 1976 steering box I had was metric, and also used different fittings. So, I either took the lines and had them reflared, or I could use a metric box. So, after looking around on the good old internet, I found out that there are several boxes out there in Junkyards that are bolt in and metric. But what gets even better, is that some of the boxes not only bolt into the car and have the correct fittings for the lines, but have a quick ratio steering! I have a buddy who had the exact box I needed. So, after a little elbow grease and paint, I took my old box off and bolted this new box on. Almost too easy.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130413_021709_zpsdc789f16-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130413_021709_zpsdc789f16.jpg.html)

The last sensor that I needed to hook up was my oil pressure sensor. Now, with the Speedhut gauges, they require their own sensor for the gauge to fully function, so I had to find a port for the sensor. I don't like the look of the redundant sensors, but unfortunately I don't have a choice on this one. A little research yielded me some nice results. The block off plate above the oil filter on the LS1's can be tapped to put a sensor, and great thing is it is down low and completely hidden from sight. The sensor was too close to the exhaust so I needed to get it in a different direction. I bought a 90* fitting from Lowes (I plan to buy a 45* in, but that was all they had) and installed it so it was closer to the engine and away from the headers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130414_124952_zpscd033557-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130414_124952_zpscd033557.jpg.html)

I forgot to get a picture before I put the radiator on again, but the serp belt and all accessories are installed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/20130413_021727_zpsb81575a7-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130413_021727_zpsb81575a7.jpg.html)

Ok, so what everyone has been waiting for. Now please keep in mind that I am having some issues with my tune and that is the reason that it isn't idling down properly. I think I have a vacuum leak somewhere as it is running at 1200 rpms in the video. I will get my tune figured out and get a good video of the car at idle. I also wanted to mention that I have had many things off of the engine so while I was making this video I was checking everything for leaks etc. I am happy to say that the only leak I have is a slight weap from the thermostat housing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/th_20130414_143623_zps5f44a6bf-1.jpg (http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m215/ryeguy2006a/20130414_143623_zps5f44a6bf.mp4)

All for now.

[mdes0]

Nice job!

[Ravenworks]

Very nice to hear it running!

[FirebirdSteve]

Sounds wicked!!!

[qnitro]

thats great, soon she will be back on the road

[ryeguy2006a]

It has been a fast moving few days for me. It started when I got a phone call on Thursday morning about my Daily Driver Mustang GT I was selling. The guy wanted to take a look at my car so we set up a time to meet that night. To my surprise, he brought a pocket full of cash, and a dealer plate. Looked my car all over and bought it on the spot. Now, at this point I was happy I sold the car, but worried because I don't have anything to drive. I wanted to take my time when buying my next car, so what to do. I have an almost complete 76 Trans Am that is begging to get driven. So the rush begins.(Although I am cutting any corners)

So, in order to get the car ready, I have been very focused and prioritizing my time as it is limited. Also a few late nights, :lol:. Now, let me get to the pictures. I was confident that everything was finished on the passenger's side. Time to mount the fender and inner fender. It is starting to look like a car again.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130517_012902_zpsf0cf8637-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130517_012902_zpsf0cf8637.jpg.html)

After a few attempts, I finally got my driveshaft back from the local shop. I took it to them with the measurements they asked for, and it was an inch too long. So, back to the shop and they took another 1" off of it and now it fits perfectly. It also too me a long time to find some place that carried a 1310 to GM 3R U-joint, but finally tracked one down. I got this driveshaft down in Carlisle for $35, Cut and balance $77, new U-joint $12. Grand total for an Aluminum driveshaft that will handle 600-700 HP, $124 bucks. NICE :cool:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130516_230337_zps63388b0e-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130516_230337_zps63388b0e.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130516_230347_zpsaaac0df5-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130516_230347_zpsaaac0df5.jpg.html)

I started working on the brakes. They were the biggest thing I was putting off. I didn't grab any pictures, but I had to "gut" my stock proporting valve, which turned it into a distribution block. Essentially it is just removing the valving and springs inside that restrict the rear brakes at a hard stop. Not too difficult to do, just time consuming. Once that was done, I installed the inline adjustable proportioning valve right below where the rear hose connects to the hard line. Real easy and very accessable. Then ran the lines and installed the rear backing plates and brackets. Once, they were intalled I test fit the passenger's side shock and drilled a hole to relocate it to clear the caliper. It was about 1 1/2" rearward that I relocated. Very easy and thanks to Eroc022, I didn't need to do the swap with two left sides. Now both calipers face the front. I like when things are symetrical. Once, the shock was relocated, I bolted everything down and tested the wheel. No clearance issues at all. Repeat on the other side, and bleed the brakes. DONE.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130518_190825_zps9dc5bb81-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130518_190825_zps9dc5bb81.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130519_211849_zps0a0c53c7-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130519_211849_zps0a0c53c7.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130519_212142_zps3dd85f9f-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130519_212142_zps3dd85f9f.jpg.html)

For those that may ask about E-brake cables, I haven't bought or installed those yet. I will be using the universal Lokar cables when the time comes. For now, its leaving it in gear. That will change shortly.

Once, the brakes were done, it was time to put the other fender on and the front nose. Because I was thinking ahead, I saved the shims and adjustments for all the body panels. I recommend this to anyone because everything fell into place. This is after about 15 mins of adjusting.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130518_011435_zps13a1ab52-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130518_011435_zps13a1ab52.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130518_011446_zpsbdf0c935-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130518_011446_zpsbdf0c935.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130518_011455_zpsd9577a20-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130518_011455_zpsd9577a20.jpg.html)

I changed pace, and decided to work on my wiper motor upgrade. Here is what I came up with so far. I made this bracket out of 1/4" aluminum plate, and drilled holes for the motor to mount to, and then I will drill holes in the plate and the firewall to attach the plate to the firewall. pretty simple, and at this point it is crude, but I will smooth off the edges and finish the wiring on it. All in good time.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130518_190907_zpsacf07523-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130518_190907_zpsacf07523.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130518_190853_zpsc2ce1824-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130518_190853_zpsc2ce1824.jpg.html)

After that, my father-in-law stopped by and we installed the hood and nose piece. Even with all the same shims in place the hood still too us an hour to fit properly. :? Anyway, its done now and I can worry about other things.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130519_211801_zps622b3782-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130519_211801_zps622b3782.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130519_211812_zpsefd95604-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130519_211812_zpsefd95604.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130519_211822_zpsc9ada6e5-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130519_211822_zpsc9ada6e5.jpg.html)

Here is the car this morning. As you can see I didn't quite finish last night. I was able to borrow a car for today to get to work, but after tonight it will be all ready. I still need to finish a few little bits of wiring, such as the headlights, marker lights, and the cooling fans. Once those are done, I just need to fill the transmission with fluid, put the ont bumper on and take it for a spin!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/20130520_074934_zps6ac84842-1.jpg (http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ryeguy2006a/media/20130520_074934_zps6ac84842.jpg.html)

That's all for now. Should have some more pictues and maybe a video later tonight.

Thanks,
Ryan