Third Brass Prop Valve Leaking!!!!

[SicMonte]

So I am about to install my third brass prop valve from inline tube. Every one I have installed so far has leaked out of the front rubber boot that covers the valve. I called inline tube and they ADMITTED to me that 15/100 of these style prop valves fail and leak from that valve. Doesn't 15/100 seem a little bit high?? And they came right out and admitted it!

Now I know that they do not manufacture these prop valves and apparentlly their supplier is the only company who makes these units.

What do you all use for a dics/drum valve? The one I have is a stock replacement, made of brass and has a 70/30 valving. They do make a solid brass one which has no front valve (leaking part!!) but that is rated at 50/50 valving.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/PictureDD021-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Picture121-1.jpg

[chuckd71]

Would an adjustable wilwood work?

[Apogee]

I've had similarly bad luck with the OE repro valves, as well as the OE G-body units, but you don't have a lot of other options if you're not willing to change most of your hard lines around to accomodate either an aftermarket valve/distribution block or none at all. When it comes to brake plumbing, I subscribe to the simpler is better line of thinking. I like my components to be easy to isolate for troubleshooting and replace should the need arise. I prefer the adjustable proportioning valves since they can be made to work for both drum or disc applications since rear discs tend to ultimately be the goal for most builds as funds allow. With drums, you can always add a 10 psi residual pressure valve separately if needed.

Tobin
KORE3

[dontlifttoshift]

What Tobin said. Run a simple adjustable prop valve and add the 10 pound residual for drums.

I have NEVER had any luck with those factory style combination valves.

[SicMonte]

I've had similarly bad luck with the OE repro valves, as well as the OE G-body units, but you don't have a lot of other options if you're not willing to change most of your hard lines around to accomodate either an aftermarket valve/distribution block or none at all. When it comes to brake plumbing, I subscribe to the simpler is better line of thinking. I like my components to be easy to isolate for troubleshooting and replace should the need arise. I prefer the adjustable proportioning valves since they can be made to work for both drum or disc applications since rear discs tend to ultimately be the goal for most builds as funds allow. With drums, you can always add a 10 psi residual pressure valve separately if needed.

Tobin
KORE3

Tobin...you always seem to help me with my brake issues!!! If I do an adjustale prop valve what do I do for lines? Would I have to run all new lines or is there some sort of adapter I can put in where the brass prop valve went. PM me is thats easier. Thanks!!

[BulldawgMusclecars]

You might want to use something like this...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-11179/

Thats what I use on nearly every build. If you can use a stock valve, I'll send you one off my T-Type.

[SicMonte]

You might want to use something like this...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-11179/

Thats what I use on nearly every build. If you can use a stock valve, I'll send you one off my T-Type.

That looks like it would bolt up right where the stock one bolts up to. All I would need to do is bend the ends of a couple lines and it would be done. This might be the best bet b/c I just got all new s/s hard lines and I really dont want to get another set of lines.

Do you have any pics of this valve installed on the car? And I might need your stock one just in case.

[BulldawgMusclecars]

I typically move them under the frame, away from the exhaust but easily accessible with the wheel turned to full lock, like this. I always make new lines anyway.This is on Project Grocery Getter. Shoot me a PM with your address if you need the stocker.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/IMG_0928-1.jpg

[Apogee]

The Wilwood 260-11179 is a great unit, however all of the ports are 3/8-24 inverted flare, so they're not compatible with 1/4" diameter hard lines unless you run a 3/8-24 male X 7/16-24 female inverted flare adapter fitting...doable, but not all that clean or sexy when you're done. Ideally, you would run new 3/16" hard lines and eliminate as many unnecessary threaded connections and adapter fittings as possible, but even with the adapters, you'd be ahead of the OE type valves you're running now IMHO.

Tobin
KORE3

[MonzaRacer]

Honestly get an adjustable, a 10PSi check and have some extra lines flared up and all.
I would see if you can move back a few inches, flare the rear line, add in a union, the nmake the short adapter line for an adjustable with a 10PSI check,,,,actually now would be ideal time to swap in S10 rear disc and do away with drum,,,,,,,hint hint.

[SicMonte]

Honestly get an adjustable, a 10PSi check and have some extra lines flared up and all.
I would see if you can move back a few inches, flare the rear line, add in a union, the nmake the short adapter line for an adjustable with a 10PSI check,,,,actually now would be ideal time to swap in S10 rear disc and do away with drum,,,,,,,hint hint.

S10 rear brakes...get with the times man!!! It's 2012 already!!!! Baer SS4+ rear brakes are the way to go.