Need help finding an electrical connector.

[FatfreeGTO]

Ok normally I am able to find things by searching but either I'm being completely stupid or it doesn't exist because I can't find it. I'm hoping someone smarter then me has the answer!

I'm going to start rewiring my GTO and I don't want splices of any kind that are hidden in the harness. So I don't want butt connectors, parallel crimps, solder, etc... I'm hoping to use all metri-pack or weather-pack connectors.

Now lets take for example 2 taillights or front parking lights etc that share the same single power wire. Is there a connector out there that will allow me to feed the connector, has an internal buss, and can go out to feed both lights?

The only thing I have been able to find is the Delphi Sealed Splice Pack System
54656

This isn't really ideal because it doesn't allow a quick disconnect if for example I wanted to pull out my front grills which have the parking lights in them.

I also found a Pack-con bussbar terminal, but I don't understand how this would get crimped. There isn't enough room to fit the crimper on the terminal and I can't seem to find a crimper that would work.

54657

Am I missing something extremely obvious? I really feel like I am... If you can help I would greatly appreciate it. This is holding me up from ordering all of the material I need. Areas where I need to split the power like this are
-Front parking/turn signal lights
-horns
-power seats
-rear tail lights and turn signals.

[dontlifttoshift]

That busbar is for fuse blocks, it would be pretty hokey to use that. One option is to use terminal blocks but not my favorite.

Why not just tap a wire off for multiple feeds. Example, in the case of your lights at an appropriate location strip some insulation in the middle of the wire, slide on a piece of heat shrink (the kind with the glue), solder in the end of the the next wire, and heat shrink. One wire turns into two. if you need more just repeat process a few inches down the length. That's the way almost all fuel injection harnesses are done, oem and aftermarket. I do this all the time wiring cars at the shop and have never had a problem. Don't overthink it. Butt connectors are bad...solder and heat shrink should last damn near forever.

Not sure where you are getting your supplies but I highly recommend www.waytekwire.com

Donny

[FatfreeGTO]

I realize I am just overthinking this. Terminal blocks are also on my "no" list, take up too much space. I have thought about doing exactly what you say with the sealing type heat shrink, just thought if I could have a system where all the terminations are at a connector it would be better. I did not realize that OEM's still wired that way with the solder.

While taking my old harness out some of the old "soldered" splices were pretty brittle and falling apart, that is what led me away from that system.

Thanks for the link, that is the place that I have been pricing out all my supplies from. Seems to be the best. Just wish I could get smaller quantities of wire so I could have some color variation, but looks like I will do the whole thing in black...

[ErikLS2]

Virtually no OEM harnesses use a solder type of splice or connection anywhere. They create a stiff section of the wire, become brittle and are more prone to failure. A typical solderless crimp connector done properly with the right tool is a far superior connection. They are all over the place in the 2 main power wires on my GTO LS2 harness.

[FatfreeGTO]

Thanks Erik!

[dontlifttoshift]

If oem doesn't use solder what do they use? When you take apart an efi harness and eight pink wires come out of two to power the injectors what's holding them together? I am asking seriously, I assumed they were soldered.

Black is good. I wire all my cars in black. The old soldered splices made it 40 years, the way I see it 40 more is plenty good.

[FatfreeGTO]

That's true about the 40 years part, hell in 40 years I won't have quarter panels left because the rust will have eaten them completely :)

[ErikLS2]

If oem doesn't use solder what do they use? When you take apart an efi harness and eight pink wires come out of two to power the injectors what's holding them together? I am asking seriously, I assumed they were soldered.

Black is good. I wire all my cars in black. The old soldered splices made it 40 years, the way I see it 40 more is plenty good.


They use a crimp connector basically, which is crimped with the proper tool and the exact size for the wire(s) being crimped. The orange and pink wires that supply all the B+ and Ign power to everything on my LS2 harness are spliced this way. They are then covered with some type of insulating tape, many use a kind of rubbery silicone like tape (not sure what it's made of) that only sticks to itself.

[dontlifttoshift]

Okay, so you are talking about the 12 ga and larger wires. I wonder if they use the same thing on the 18 to 20 ga wires. I also question if the oems use a crimp type fitting to make it easier to assemble a harness.

Thanks for the info.

Donny

[ErikLS2]

They use the same thing on all splice points, I've never seen an OEM splice with any solder on it ever, and I've been looking at them for 20 years. Only place in a car you'll find solder is on the circuit boards. Keep in mind to that the terminal ends that go on the end of the wire and into the connector body are crimped on with no solder and they're fine, it's the same thing in the middle of the wire. I can't stress enough though the importance of using the proper tool and connector size for the wire, but that principle applies to everything right? :)

[FatfreeGTO]

Is this the type of crimp that you would recommend then?

54676

[Turbo67camaro]

I've been looking for the same thing myself (weather pack splice that can be quickly disconnected), without success yet.

I envision a SEALED 3 gang bus bar that simply plugs into a 3 wire weather pack connector. Haven't found one yet.

If you add extra weatherpack connectors you can accomplish the disconnect ability, albeit with extra connections and crimps and risk for failure, but it gets the job done. Remember, at the devices, I assume, you'll have disconnectable weatherpack connectors, so that may be all the disconnects you need.

I'll probably go with the sealed splice pack system you posted, if I don't find something better soon. I'm not too fond of the 6 wire bulkiness of it though. Hopefully, a 3 wire version of it exists.

Seems like there's a business opportunity for someone.

[dontlifttoshift]

They use the same thing on all splice points, I've never seen an OEM splice with any solder on it ever, and I've been looking at them for 20 years. Only place in a car you'll find solder is on the circuit boards. Keep in mind to that the terminal ends that go on the end of the wire and into the connector body are crimped on with no solder and they're fine

Can I add that the crimp on most of those connectors is on the wire strands and the insulation for an extra strong and supported connection if you you use the....


I can't stress enough though the importance of using the proper tool and connector size for the wire, but that principle applies to everything right? :)

I will absolutely second that. I sold weather packs to a guy once who told me he was just going to "crimp" the terminal with needle nose pliers. He did all his electrical that way and never had a problem except for the one time the car started on fire........

[ErikLS2]

Is this the type of crimp that you would recommend then?

54676


Yes, that is what I would suggest. Just make sure the crimp and the wire size match. If you need to connect 4 wires, put two into each end. If only three, strip one wire twice as long and put in all the way through the crimp so you have the same amount of wire in each end, then insulate it well with silicione tape http://www.rescuetape.com/

Make a test one on a scrap piece of wire and try to pull it apart with reasonable force, if you can't you're good.

The pliers I like to use to crimp these things: http://www.service.kleintools.com/Tools/PRD/Category/Crimping/Cutting%20Tools%20-%20Non-Insulated/Insulated%20Terminals%20STRIPPERS-CRIMPERS-CRCTNINSIN/Product/1005

[FatfreeGTO]

I have those same Klein crimpers just the orange/black handled version. The tape you listed looks interesting, but have have rolls and rolls of the 3m Scotch linerless 130c rubber tape. (http://3mcollision.com/scotch-130c-premium-linerless-rubber-splicing-tape-41717.html) So I would probably just use that.

I'm going to pick up a weatherpack crimper and I don't mind spending $100 +/- on it but the delphi one only has a range of 14-20ga. I'm going to have areas that have 12ga so I need a crimper that does at least 12ga. Any suggestions so I don't have to buy 2 different ones. A guy I work with might have crimpers for me to borrow but I haven't gotten to talk to him yet.


Turbo67: You can buy that sealed splice pack in 2,3,4,5,or 6 conductors. You just need to order the appropriate parts to put it together. Here are the bus bars on waytek (http://order.waytekwire.com/products/M50/320/550/650/11)

[ehummelman]

I get most of my stuff from DelCity, but Waytek is good too. I bought a ratcheting Accel crimper from Summit, it's got interchangeable dies for regular crimps, weatherpacks, plug wires, etc. The weather pack dies do from 8-22 gauge I think. I rewired my entire Bronco with just that tool. Cheaper than $100 too.

Also, when I wanted to split one into two (like for headlights) I just crimped two wire ends into one connector. As long as you size the connector properly it will mate up with the opposite gender connector fine. The only thing that is not perfect is the rubber seal gets oval since it now wraps around two wires, but it still seals fine, expecially if you squirt dielectric grease on all your crimps/connections which I do routinely anyway to keep out moisture, dust, and any other grime.

[ErikLS2]

If you're going to use that 3M tape then put some heat shrink tubing over the crimp first.