How much time required to replace wiring harness?

[TheJDMan]

I'm just curious approximately how much time is required to install a new AAW wiring harness in a 1st Gen Camaro.

[FlyDoc]

I did see at one time ISIS stated that a convention harness in stall was 40 man hours, and there's was 8 or 10 man hours, that was one of there advertising points.
Hope this is what you were looking for

[MuscleRodz]

depends on if the interior is out, dash is out, and wiring already removed. Takes around 30-35 to do one nice tight and clean with everything removed. if you have to strip the car add another 6-8. if you have to put it back together add another 10-12. if you got pwr windows, locks, radio, just keep adding hours.

[TheJDMan]

Is installation easier with the engine in or out (SBC) and should I install the dyna mat before or after wiring?

[Taylor1969]

...should I install the dyna mat before or after wiring?

Depends on if you are the type that puts pants on before his underwear.

[77thor]

Which wire harness are you replacing; engine, dash, head light, tail light, or all of them??

[CreepinDeth]

I think it HIGHLY depends on skill level and experience.

A classic update kit with all the factory connectors on it will be a HELL of alot faster to do then
a Customized AAW Highway 22 kit that you have to crimp, solder, shrink every connector on.

I used updated Weatherpack connectors, custom gauge bezel, LS1/4L60e wired in.
So mine took me lots of weekends .......plus I was a newb. But I prefer the Highway 22 kit myself.

Doing my 442 next.


depends on if you are the type that puts pants on before his underwear.

lmfao.....

I POR-15'd my car and put my sound deadener down before running my new AAW harness.
If you do it vice versa and stick that tar paper over the wires......it complicates your life later
if you have to pull a circuit.

[BigDawgDavao]

Big thing is at what stage is your car and if you will be putting it in at one time.

I put one in myself recently in a '67 RS, though have no idea how long it took me because it was more or less done in stages. That's one of the neat things about the AAW Classic kit is that it comes in Bags A-F (or so) for different sections, so you can put in the various sections as you get to them. I would guess that the 35-40 hour range is pretty close, depending on how anal you are with the routing, tie wrapping, special connectors, stereo/amp/speakers, yes/no, and wire coverings (as most of mine went into the painless powerbraid wraps for a little cleaner look). Then add a few hours for various troubleshooting issues that will most likely pop up like dodgy grounds or in my case issues with the courtesy light wire from the fuse block that had come out of the spade terminal and the hideaway headlights that took a little bit of troubleshooting.

One important thing is get the best crimper and wire strippers you can afford or borrow. In the long run it will also save you time from having to redo connections.

[BuzzKillian]

and solder every connection you crimp. I started out just crimping. After having to redo like 6 wires pulling out. I went back and soldered every thing, peace of mind is invalueble.

[CreepinDeth]

That's one of the neat things about the AAW Classic kit is that it comes in Bags A-F (or so) for different sections, so you can put in the various sections as you get to them.

The AAW Highway 22 kit's are the same way.
I'll venture a guess that they all are.

I agree, you should crimp & solder every connection and heat shrink over it.
I didn't use any electrical tape whatsoever.

The crimpers I bought were these USA made Channellock's. They're at Home Cheapo for ~$20.
Harbor Freight has the CHinese quality version for $6 I think.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

For the butt connectors, I just bought the plastic one's and shoved the metal parts out of them.
Later I discovered you can buy these metal butts separately VERY CHEAP in bulk online from Waytek Wire.
You can buy 100 of each gauge range (x3) for $12 plus shipping.
http://order.waytekwire.com/products2/M50/320/200/100/1/Butt-Non%20Insulated%20Butted/Butt%20Connectors/Terminals%20And%20Connectors/

This is essentially what every connection should look like, but I also soldered it. Be sure to put the shrink wrap
on about 5 - 6 inches away from the work point, or it shrinks from the heat!!!! lol
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/passenger_door_lock_switch_wires01-1.jpg

[JayBird]

Im in that process now and I have about 20 hrs in it so far. I am using AAW Classic update for 69 camaro. I have finished rear of car and wired DSE dash with autometer gauges. Now working under dash with proper routing, etc and running AC duct work to make sure nothing interferes.

The crimping tools I bought are from AAW and are Delphi Packard. They are expensive but work GREAT. I fiugred I would have them forever and get plenty of use. They make termination on single or double F style crimp simple and professional looking.

Since I am a novice at wiring I wanted the assurance my terminations would be correct.

[CreepinDeth]

If you're REALLY on a budget, there's these from Harbor Freight for butt connectors.
$11 for this ratcheting crimper.
http://www.harborfreight.com/ratcheting-crimping-tool-97420.html

$7 for this regular crimper.
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-1-2-half-inch-wire-crimping-tool-36411.html

These are all over Amazon for $30 for Weatherpack crimps and do just as good of a job as the $100 tool.
http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packard-Weatherpack-Crimper-Tool/dp/B002CCAEJ6
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif