Ride tech suspension install?

[94BlownZ]

I'm brand new to this site but very addicted to it already!!! I'm getting ready to purchase ride techs e3 system for my 94Z28 . I just have a few questions concerning installing the system, I have the complete interior out of the car for various reasons and feel running all the air lines and external leveling sensor wiring inside and poking outin the related would be best . How has everyone done it? Also thoughts on upgrading compressor, tank and valves, ride tech says not really nessasary for most applications

Thanks in advance for you advice

Paul

[marolf101x]

Paul,

Install:
Install wise you can do whatever you want. . .from zip tying all the air lines and wiring to the brake lines, all the way to running everything through the frame or the interior. Just depends on how crazy you want to get.

Upgrade compressor, tank, and valves:
Tank:
Let's start here. . .that vehicle requires only a 3 gallon tank unless you are showing off to your friends and bounce it around a lot. The system is designed to raise the vehicle from a lowered height to the proper ride height, depleting the tank just enough that the compressor turns on to fill the tank, but no so little as you run out of air.
The only thing a large tank will do is allow more inflate/deflate "activations". So instead of being able to inflate from low to ride twice (typically maximum for a 3 gallon tank before you have to wait for the compressor to fill the tank) you'll be able to inflate from low to high 4 times. Again, if you are using the system as designed (to get from low to proper ride) there is no need for additional tank volume.

Valves:
Valves control the speed of the system (how fast the car inflates). 99% of the time we use and suggest the Ridepro 1/4" valves. My 1966 Lincoln Continental Convertible uses the larger 3/8" valves, but then again it weighs 5500lbs and takes 115lbs of air pressure in the front, so it needs the volume.
Increasing system speed decreases the accuracy of the system. So, for example, we put 1/4" valves in your car. It will raise to ride height in under 8 seconds and within 0.125" (if you are using level sensors).
If you put 3/8" valves in the same car it will now raise in maybe 4-5 seconds, but it'll only be within 0.5" of actual ride height. The reason? The larger valves allow more air to inflate or deflate the vehicle, so you get stuck in a "loop". It will inflate past the set point, then deflate past the set point, then inflate past the set point again. No matter what you do it'll keep "searching" as the valves cannot physically let less air through to hit the target.

Compressors:
There are a couple of rules here:
-don't believe advertised flow rates and amp draws! (I've tested a bunch and most of them are way off. . .just like electric fans)
-the more airflow they state, the louder the unit is
There are exceptions to these rules, but in general these work.

Now, let's think about the compressor. It's only function is to fill the tank from 135psi to 150psi. It cannot fill the air springs directly (there's not a compressor on the market that is small, quite, and can fill 4 air springs without a storage vessel). So you have two options:
1-smaller compressor; quite operation, less amp draw, takes longer to fill tank
2-larger compressor, louder operation, more amp draw, takes less time to fill tank
So my choice every time is the Thomas compressor; small, quiet, low amp draw, fills a 3-gallon tank from 135psi to 150psi in under one minute.
We are working on a couple of other options, but at this time this is the ONLY compressor I suggest.

[[email protected]]

Hi Paul!
Several years ago I bagged my '96 T/A, mounting the tank/valves/compressors in the rear window and the ecu in the console; i ran all my wires/lines under the carpet to a hole under the rear seat. From there, the lines to the fronts went in the frame. That was with an e2, though; I'm hoping to switch to e3 this spring and will be putting the ecu under the passenger seat or in the spare tire area (as I don't think it will fit in the console) and hoping to find a different spot for the tank/compressors as well. Honestly, the hardest part of my install was finding a good spot for the rear sensors...not a lot of room back there, takes a little trial-and-error :). Give us a shout if there's anything else we can help you with!
Amber

[JRouche]

Hey Paul, good choice going with ride tech's system.

Im a proponent of their parts and systems but will also talk about the down falls with their systems in some of my previous posts. Im NOT even dedicated to one manufacture, dealer or type of system. I go with what works and WILL point out what does not work.

And yes, the main consideration should be how the components work as advertised, and they do for the most part. One of the MAJOR benefits with their system is the PEOPLE!! Yup, Im not easily impressed with the tech support of ANY company. But I have to give a strong shout out to the folks answering the phones over there with the folks at Ride Tech. Been dealing with them for a couple years now (along with the company name changes) and EVERY time I call, the person that answers the phone knows ALL of their systems. And in detail!! Just got off the phone with Beau, a tech rep. He knew ALL the detailed info I was looking for. Im talking about voltage upper and lower limits for the level sensors. As he was giving me the info I needed, which seemed like it was right off the top of his head he was also researching some other info I needed. Thank YOU Sir, Beau is one of the reasons Ill always shop for Ridetech products.

Back to the tech side of things, enough blowing smoke.

I agree and disagree with Britt some what.

Tank:
I have the 5 gallon tank in the trunk. It actually takes up the pretty close the amount of space as the 3 gallon tank in aluminum. They used to sell steel tanks. I dont see the steel 5 gallon tank in the new catalog. Yes, its larger in diameter (the steel tank) but fits pretty well in most trunks. The 5 gallon aluminum tank is long. So it prolly wont fit in ANY trunks. And its still bulky enough that it wont fit under the car, so its still gonna be a trunk placement.

So yeah, I see why Britt is advising the smaller tank. Why do I say go with the most tank that you can fit? Cause Heck, its not all about the air springs, they really dont use ANY air if you dont drop and raise the car much, the air springs dont use ANY additional air if you plumb the system up with NO leaks. The air springs will hold air pressure for weeks if not months without needing any additional air.

But the way I saw it was why have a full on air compressor and reservoir if I didnt modify it for my needs. So I welded some additional ports on the tank and set it up with some quality quick release connectors for an air line. Umm, read quality fittings, the type that dont leak.
So the additional air reservoir was a plus in my build. Im not concerned about weight. But folks that are would be good to go with the 3 gallon aluminum tank, its really light and large enough for a four wheel air spring system.

Valves:
Yup!!! I agree with Britt. Dont use the large valves. Even if you think you need it you DONT.. I have a feeling they introduced the large 3/8" valves way back when. When they were producing air systems for the mini truck market. These valves were a part of their line up before they got into the performance car market. The 3/8" valves are TOO large and can not work with the E3 or E2 controllers like folks would like. Hell! I have the newer air valves and still have to plumb in a variable valve to limit the air flow. As good as the new E3 system is, its still limited with the reaction of the air valves. And thats not a dis on RT. Its just
the way it is. Until there is a better air valve (Im thinking a rotary valve VS piston valve) thats what we have..

Compressors:
Yup! Im with Britt on this one. A single is all thats needed, if its a quality unit. And Ride Tech has them. NOW!! I did do some wiring to modify the two compressor system. I wanted more control of the compressors. So I wired in two switches. They are three position switches. Basically the three points are computer controlled, thats where they are set always, or ON (meaning they are on no matter what) or OFF.

Yup. can turn on the compressors when the air ride system is off. For example if I want some air in the tank without turning on the air ride or car for that matter. Its basically an air compressor at that point. And I can turn off one of the compressors during normal operation for what ever reason. I have control issues no doubt, but only with the car... :)

Hmmm? Guess that kinda covers some of the points?

Oh wait? The routing of the air and control lines? That WAS your Q. I replaced the plastic air lines with stainless steel braided lines. Why? No reason, they are NOT better. In a way they are worse, they are heavier. But I have hundreds of feet of SS braided line in my garage so I needed a use.

I routed the air lines and electrical control lines IN the car. For no other reason than because it was simple. No more than that. Ok more than that. I wasnt comfortable running the air lines on the outside of the car. It was NOT a coincidence that the air lines fit better inside the car. It was a predetermined choice... JR

Pics??

Two compressors rewired on a panel.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/zza-1.jpg


In the car with the tank

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/zzd-1.jpg

The rats nest of air lines and wires..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/i00110-1.jpg

Then the bundle tightened up..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/i00115-1.jpg

[MonzaRacer]

Ill jump in here. In 2003 I bought part of my set up on my 78 C10, then in 04 bought the rest and built a bolt on parallel 4 link,,,before AirRide Technologies, now Ridetech.
BUT I was still on a budget, so I had my engine out of my 71 Monte Carlo and I kept the A6 AC compressor, to feed my system. Reason, economics. I had ,at the time 3 compressors and my buddies and their dad always pull AC so I have a source for compressors, if not running AC on my Truck, even thought it had AC.
So I get a Hobbs switch, three paddle switches, three gauges. source fittings from two truck shop parts dept, and used line that came with kits and then added in some 1/8th " to the gauges. Rear lines are T-ed and front are independent. The compressor from dead empty took maybe a minute to fill the long steel 5 gallon, got it for the multiple outlet fittings. Added one with a ball valve and have a hose in the bed to air up tire and such. I got two years out of a single A6, reason for use, they hold 12 oz of oil in a crankcase,,,I would give it a small squirt every so often, but it eventually wore the clutch out, couldn't find my spare and did have a York/Tecumseh sitting around from the Sears add on from my 70 MC.
Built a bracket one day, and its still on there,,but truck hasnt been driven since 08,,,hope to get it back running this year.
Only thing I really needed was to make sure I had nothing rubbing, first blow out my panhard bar came loose, bolts from inner wheel wells cut inside of my new Winterdeuler tire. they have been cut off since. Had some issues in back, had a mounting issue and the lower mount on my 9000 air bag actually rubbed a hole from inside. So far only lost two rear bags.
I have seen some minor scuffing on fronts,, so hope to deal wit that before I drive it again.
As for electric compressor for my next two ars, will be the big single, my Caprice will have Coolride and my Monza will use rear air springs and coilovers up front UNLESS I can verify clearances and scrape up the cash to get them.
Heck I like my paddle switches, my first air ride car was in 98 on my 71 Monte, after having to weld two sets of coil over lift kits together cause my springs were SHOT I went to see Bret before East Coast Power Tour in 98, that car had single lines ran to the rear bumper and only added air when I loaded the trunk down.
And I really see little reason for street driven cars to use large bore valves,,, last two setups I saw I had help them add restrictors as they had bought uninstalled kits. We threaded Holley Jets into brass fittings then drilled them out to slow them down (threaded them on the out side diameter and them screwed them in and then drilled them to get slower response to allow easier adjustment).
Oh and you will LOVE the performance of the air ride!

[94BlownZ]

Britt, Amber, JRouche and Lee thanks for responding and sharing your experience, thoughts and ideas they were very helpful. I ordered the e3 system with Level pro this evening. All I have to do is decide which shockwaves to go with. Can't decide on single adjustable or the select series that is electronically controlled. It doesn't look like the triple adjustables are available for my car but I sent Ride techs sales dept. an email tonight asking. If the triples aren't available I think I'm leaning toward the single adjustables,, however if the triples are available.......who knows which way I'll go. Well in the meantime I can't wait until the package is sitting on my door step!!!

[JRouche]

Well in the meantime I can't wait until the package is sitting on my door step!!!

Yup. When you come home from work and see this sitting on your door step then you know you are good to go!!! Make sure to take some pics when you do the install and post your progress. And if you ever need any help or ideas dont hesitate to ask me. Most of the install will be pretty straight forward. Bout the only real thinking "out of the box" for me was mounting the front level sensors. Im STILL working that out. I had them in a spot that I thought was good to go and it wasnt. So I had to remount them and I ended up using some heim joints instead of the rubber end links provided. Also made some longer arms (but the stock arms should work with most cars). The rubber links are fine to be honest. And they have the additional benny of protecting the rotary sensor if there is a slight misalignment issue. But I think I FINALLY have them set up and there wont be any bind or misalignment. So why the bearings? For a smoother rotation of the links. The stock ends are good for rotation, they have lock nuts so you dont tighten the nut too much to bind the links to the arm. But I just like a lil tighter fit (no side to side looseness). Yer gonna have fun with it. The install and the use. Pretty damm good system. JR

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/AR-1.jpg

[94BlownZ]

Well unfortunately the compressors are on back order from Ride Tech so I'm waiting patiently, ok maybe not patiently. Ruth at Ride Tech has been very upfront and helpful on the few questions I had, so I have to agree with the people on here as to how great their people are. Not so common these days. The triple adjustables are available for my car so I went with the triples. Can't wait

Paul

[mild2wildpaintngraphics]

Well unfortunately the compressors are on back order from Ride Tech so I'm waiting patiently, ok maybe not patiently. Ruth at Ride Tech has been very upfront and helpful on the few questions I had, so I have to agree with the people on here as to how great their people are. Not so common these days. The triple adjustables are available for my car so I went with the triples. Can't wait

Paul
Yup, I'm waiting for my compressor as well; but Ridetech is worth the wait.