Clocking brake calipers

[TheJDMan]

I fabricated a pair of brake caliper mounts for my 9" floater rear end and I'm ready to weld the mounts to the housing but between suspenson components and body parts room is tight. In order to get the best clearance I need to clock the caliper about 15deg up from the center line on the back side of the rotor. My primary consideration is keeping the bleeders at the top of the caliper to aid brake bleeding. Is there any other requirement for clocking a brake caliper that I need to be aware of before I weld the caliper mounts on the axle?

[Yelcamino]

As long as the bleeders are at the top and the calipers clear everything (including the frame at full suspension compression) you should be able to clock them how you need to.

[Bryce]

If you want to get crazy you can look at the rotational forces when applying the brakes and look at the reactive forces of the body.

[BADDRIDE II]

No need to have NASA run any test....clock them so they clear and can be bled. :)

[oestek]

I've wondered this myself... here's another thread:

http://www.v8tvshow.com/forum/index.php/topic,53.0.html

[MrQuick]

If you want to get crazy you can look at the rotational forces when applying the brakes and look at the reactive forces of the body.

I have always thought this. Rotational forces could unload or load the tire during braking. Rear brake calipers ahead and the front calipers aft. I then looked at how they are mounted on super cars.

[Bryce]

I have always thought this. Rotational forces could unload or load the tire during braking. Rear brake calipers ahead and the front calipers aft. I then looked at how they are mounted on super cars.

That is my theory as well. Also on the back of the front axle line would help to reduce brake dive, while on the front of the front axle line would add to brake dive.

[Hydratech®]

I know the path of thought that you are following stands to some form of reason at first glance, though I can speak from direct hands on experience - truly been there / done that. I have grafted calipers into various different positions / clocking over many different custom builds over the years, to find no difference in vehicle braking behavior what so ever (symmetrical from side to side, opposing sides per mechanical necessity, top, front, rear). Since the caliper is bolted to the rear axle, it is my finding that it will provide the same rotational brake torque to the entire rear axle assembly regardless of where the caliper clock positions are during braking...

This interestingly reminds of the vintage Mopar's that ran left hand threaded lug nuts on one side of the vehicle, and right hand threaded lug nuts on the other side. All these years later, we now know that it is all about fastener torque / clamp loads, and not thread rotational direction (even though it sounded like it really made sense at the time)(LOL!)

:6gears:

[Hydratech®]

One more way to wrap your mind around it:

When you "nail it", the pinion rises upward (hence the pinion snubber / highly antiquated traction bars)

When you downshift (compression deceleration), the pinion drops downward...

[FlyDoc]

on the back of the front axle, and on the front of the back axle, has nothing to do with breaking forces, it is all about the centering of the LBS, and suspension stuff* that we will never see the effects.

*is an official technical term#.
# if you believe this I have some prim restate in Iraq for sale!