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vtscaper
12-23-2011, 06:38 PM
So after spending 100 plus hrs scraping, cleaning, wire brushing and blasting everything but the frame I am ready for primer/paint. It wasnt a frame off so I did the best job I could. There is still some signs of surface rust and areas that I just could really get as well as i would have liked.

Are there any inhibitors or magic primers any of you have used with success. Im thinking POR 15

astroracer
12-24-2011, 04:39 PM
Stay away from the POR15. I use the spray rust converters a lot. They work very well but you should get most of the loose scale and junk off the surface. Spray the converter, let it set-up and then shoot your primer.
Mark

72Z/28
12-25-2011, 02:08 AM
Stay away from the POR15. I use the spray rust converters a lot. They work very well but you should get most of the loose scale and junk off the surface. Spray the converter, let it set-up and then shoot your primer.
Mark

Mark if you don't mind, what's the reason to stay away from POR15?

astroracer
12-25-2011, 08:05 AM
Mark if you don't mind, what's the reason to stay away from POR15?
My experience with it is not good. I have worked on a couple of cars that had the POR15 "treatment" and was not impressed with it. Besides being a pain in the ass to remove, it just didn't do the job it is hyped up to do. There was still rust underneath it and, where the rust was, it didn't adhere which, basically, left the rust open to more rusting. I like to keep things simple and a rust converter like I mentioned above and some simple black enamel paint will do the job AND allow you to work on the metal down the road if the need arises.
The real issue I see with all of these "coatings" is water WILL find a way in and the coatings tend to seal the bottom of the metal so the water can't drain out... A simple paint job will not seal it up to the point it can't drain.
Mark

chops101
12-25-2011, 08:08 AM
POR - Paint Over Rust - You really want to do that? Paint over rust?
POR15 is a rust encapsulator - nothing more. The rust is still there, just not expanding anymore.

Rust converters displace/eat the rust in a chemically reactive way.

There are many good primers that have rust inhibitive additives that would work well in your situation.

PPG DP90 (black) epoxy primer works very well.

72Z/28
12-25-2011, 12:31 PM
Thank you Greg and Mark for the great info

vtscaper
12-27-2011, 08:40 PM
thanks a lot guys

64impala
01-06-2012, 10:40 AM
what ive done with my project is once you get down to final sanding, i use 80 grit to scuff and clean the metal. Then i follow up with an acid base cleaner like Acetone or Mineral Spirits. Then I shoot Self-Etching primer. My 2 cents

10 Motorworks
01-08-2012, 04:51 PM
Stick to rust neutralizers or converters for stubborn rust. POR15 is only designed to be topcoated by POR15. I usually soda blast or strip down the car then use a alkaline neutralizer like After Blast then hit the whole car with 180 grit and immediately spray a good DTM (direct to metal) 2K Primer. PPG's DP90 (black) or DP40 (red) is a great product but unless the metal is in perfect shape and no further bodywork is needed I don't use it. It is a very tough epoxy primer and if you need to do any lead work or welding it is a bear to sand off. I prefer to use it 3:1:1 (primer, catalyst, reducer) and shoot it over the entire car as a sealer when all the body work is done.

nekkidhillbilly
01-10-2012, 05:22 PM
kbs is better thant por imo if your using one or the other just saying