"D20" 1968 Mustang - Pro Touring Project

[Dolmaner]

Hey there, this is my first car, I picked it up today (dec. 20th), a couple months after my 16th birthday
Its a 1968 Ford Mustang, its gotta 289 V8 and a Toploader 4 speed (apparently original to the car)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/DSCN19581-1.jpg

Anyways, its gonna be my daily driver in a year or two (when I get my full-ish license), I'm also on a budget, so my plans aren't huge, I want to update the suspension, add some new disc brakes, put a tach in as it didnt come with one from the factory (recommendations are appreciated) and add some sway bars, and hopefully get some new wheels soon. Any suggestions on what to do for the suspension would be awesome.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/DSCN19601-1.jpg

The car, as it sits right now, needs clutch work, it shakes and squeals, but gets better as you drive it, (if anyone could recommend me something to fix that itd be awesome too!)
The bodies in real good condition, the paint jobs pretty sloppy, but right now I couldnt care less.
Other than that it needs a good clean up, which is tomorrows project lol.
The car runs awesome and drives great as is right now.
Not bad for a first car eh? Picked it up for 4500.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/DSCN19461-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/DSCN19641-1.jpg

[racin66coupe]

Looks good! Look into the " rally pac" tach combo, they look real era and came factory on some cars.

this is on a 65, but you can get the idea
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/IMG_2416JPG-1.jpg

[JBCO]

Congrats on the car. If your plans aren't crazy, maybe start with "freshening" up the engine (new plugs, filters, hoses, flush/replace fluids) -- same goes for the drivetrain (trans, rear diff) -- to ensure the car runs reliably and happy.

Then as you noted start with some suspension work. Did you plan on keeping the rear leaf springs? Or something like a bolt-in 3-link kit?

After suspension you should definitely do disc brakes and wheels/tires as well (as you noted).

[csx4766]

Nice Project. I am building a 67 right now also. Check out Mustang Plus in Stockton Ca, They should have you need for parts.

Morgan

[racedaddy]

nice buy!

[Capown]

Man that's a cool first car congrats!! and Welcome as posted above I would def. freshen it up there are always used SBF parts on the cheap. Good luck and keep us posted.

[demon1515]

I will be in the market to buy a mustang just like this one as soon as i finish my Dart, i will be building a daily dirver for my wifey, like a PT Rat Rod combination.

By the way this car looks like a very nice find good luck with the project i will be watching your progress very close.

[Dolmaner]

Congrats on the car. If your plans aren't crazy, maybe start with "freshening" up the engine (new plugs, filters, hoses, flush/replace fluids) -- same goes for the drivetrain (trans, rear diff) -- to ensure the car runs reliably and happy.

Then as you noted start with some suspension work. Did you plan on keeping the rear leaf springs? Or something like a bolt-in 3-link kit?

After suspension you should definitely do disc brakes and wheels/tires as well (as you noted).

Thanks, and yeah, Im pulling the engine in the next couple days to get everything cleaned and painted, its gonna need some clutch work, so thats what Im getting done first,
I'd love to put a 3 link in, I dont know if its in my budget right now (Ive started saving my money back up after I spent it on my Mustang), what are the options for a 3 link?
And yeah my wheels arent so sexy right now, Im looking at a set of used 5 spokes, possibly new if I can get the right price

[justin51986]

I am putting TCI's 3 link on my 67 coupe. for what it's worth, i am very pleased with the quality..

[Dolmaner]

I am putting TCI's 3 link on my 67 coupe. for what it's worth, i am very pleased with the quality..

Looks like a great kit, not in my budget right now but in the future who knows, Im still planning the build though so ynever know

[justin51986]

I am looking forward to seeing your progress, I have been thinking about starting a thread on mine, but as slow as it is moving i feel like it wouldn't be updated often enough lol

[Dolmaner]

I am looking forward to seeing your progress, I have been thinking about starting a thread on mine, but as slow as it is moving i feel like it wouldn't be updated often enough lol
Yeah at first I though that too, but it cant hurt, and lots of guys here are really helpful with the little questions
BTW I added better pics to the original post

[justin51986]

looks almost exactly like mine did when I first got it, but it was dark blue. I have since stripped it down, replaced both quarters, taillight panel, rear crossmember, and am replacing the floorpans right now. now i wish since i replaced all that i woulda done the fastback conversion

[rossmacd]

Nice buy for $4500 I think. I'm all for suspension upgrades, but personally, I'm in the camp that the first thing these old cars need are better brakes... A good as you can buy. Combine that with larger wheels, and the cars immediately become so much more enjoyable to drive. You don't have to go crazy, just some 16x7 or 8 gives you enough rom for larger rotors, and enough contact patch to stop the cart more effectively, which means you don't fear stop lights.

Good luck with the project!

[JBCO]

As noted TCI is a great choice on the 3rd link. One other thing I forgot to note is while you have the engine out and such, look into a hydraulic or cable clutch system. The old school lever system on the vintage Stangs is terrible.

[Dolmaner]

As noted TCI is a great choice on the 3rd link. One other thing I forgot to note is while you have the engine out and such, look into a hydraulic or cable clutch system. The old school lever system on the vintage Stangs is terrible.
Yeah I wanna go hydraulic, its too late to just replace the lever system, the clutch shakes and squeals so, Im gonna needa whole new one Im thinking, havent really looked into it. I dont know alot about clutches, does mine need replacing?

[jr4452]

Congrats on your new ride, I'm building a 65, pretty much heading the same direction as you are. As mentioned above, Mustangs Plus is a great shop to go to for parts and advice. I've been dealing with them for 25+ years, Good folks! Good luck with the car, I'll keep an eye on it!

One more thing..... GO SHARKS!!!!! ha ha ha

[67TXStang]

You mentioned wanting a tachometer for your Mustang. I had one for a while which replaced the clock in the stock cluster. They were made by Retrogauge for a few years and were about $100. You can still find them on eBay from time to time. Here is a picture of the one I used to have.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_1643-1.jpg

[56pickup]

look into rod and custom motorsport suspension. Products look to be nice but i have not used them yet. http://rcmotorsportsinc.com/ I have seen quite a few builds with there products on.

Sweet project btw! I will be watching the progress

[Dolmaner]

Ok sorry its been a while, Ive been super busy and havent even the seen the car in the last 3 weeks, now that Im back I started tearing out the old carpet, Ill get pics later, the floors are in pretty good condition with the only major rust being on the front of the drivers side, I think Im just going to weld in a patch panel, sand it all down to bare metal, and paint it with something thats gonna keep the metal from rusting in the future. If I didnt mention before its a 289 car, with a running 289 in it. Im pulling it out soon to get a better look at it, clean it up, and I may or may not swap for a 302/351.

Right now Im planning ahead as to what suspension to put under the car, I really like the 4-Bar Coilover rear suspension from Rod and Custom Motorsport as suggested by 56pickup, and its a good price. Also looking at the coilover front suspension. Anyone have any input? And suggestions for what my options are? I am on a budget, thanks

[Aceme92]

Nice find.... My friend would love to have that car....Anyway..I have been reading posts on here for about 2 years and I have noticed many people using por-15 for the rust protection for the pant.

[exwestracer]

I probably sound like a broken record with this, but for ease of installation a torque arm setup is HARD to beat. You can use the original leaf brackets and axle pads if you want to. If you are cutting the floor anyway, I'd recommend putting weld-in subframe connectors in NOW, that way it's done and you won't have to cut back into the car later.

And yes, if the clutch is screaming at you, it's trying to tell you something....:D

[Dolmaner]

Ive decided on torque arm suspension for the rear, havent decided on which on yet. Anyone have one installed on theyre Mustang? or any car for that matter?
For the front I want some kinda coilovers

[justin51986]

here is the torque bar 3 link I got

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TCI-64-1-2-70-Mustang-and-67-68-Cougar-Rear-Torque-Arm-Suspension-Pkg-/310370959834?hash=item48438d01da&item=310370959834&pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_1030wt_793


and here is the front that i got

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-66-67-68-69-70-FORD-MUSTANG-TCI-INDEPENDENT-COIL-OVER-FRONT-SUSPENSION-/120780554870?hash=item1c1f150276&item=120780554870&pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_2065wt_702


all is better quality than I could have ever imagined!!

[rustomatic]

On the clutch front, keep it simple by checking out Mustang Steve's site. He's got the best clutch cable set up out there (I've got one, with the pedal, in my Falcon). It will completely eliminate all the juddering and flexion caused by the the original z-bar crud. I've pounded on the thing pretty good, and it's very nice so far--if you avoid headers, you won't even melt the cable housing...

Secondarily, if your engine is out, it's usually a good idea to replace the clutch stuff. It doesn't cost much (comparatively speaking), and doing it now can save a ton of trouble down the road.

For suspension, like others may have mentioned, install weld-in subframe connectors (preferably with something that ties them across the car) before you do stiff sway bars. If you don't do this, you can crack C-pillars and window gaskets, which are not fun to fix.

Most importantly, you should really just drive the snot out of the car as soon as you can. Find the limits, then improve what strikes you as needing improvement specifically.

[Dolmaner]

here is the torque bar 3 link I got

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TCI-64-1-2-70-Mustang-and-67-68-Cougar-Rear-Torque-Arm-Suspension-Pkg-/310370959834?hash=item48438d01da&item=310370959834&pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_1030wt_793


and here is the front that i got

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-66-67-68-69-70-FORD-MUSTANG-TCI-INDEPENDENT-COIL-OVER-FRONT-SUSPENSION-/120780554870?hash=item1c1f150276&item=120780554870&pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_2065wt_702


all is better quality than I could have ever imagined!!

I PMed you some questions

[Dolmaner]

Anyone have a say on what subframe connectors I should buy? I would prefer not to cut anything

[65wildstang]

I installed tinman's. They hug the floor pans tight. Good Luck

[Protournova]

I have had nothing but great service from TCI and FAB Quest,
http://www.fabquest.com/64-70-ford-mustang-or-67-68-cougar-tci-torque-arm-rear-suspension-kit.html

[Dolmaner]

I installed tinman's. They hug the floor pans tight. Good Luck

I looked them up and they look great, just wondering how effective they are?
I mean, theyre pretty big but sit differently than most others

[justin51986]

don't have to cut anything with TCI's subframe connectors, but they are incorporated with the rear 3 link....not sure how they would connect with a stock or different system....sorry I havent had a chance to reply to your P.M. yet.....i will asap

[67TXStang]

I've installed the Tinman's on the bottom of my '67.

The Tinman subframe connectors require you to cut the back of the stock front frame rail. The subframe connector then slides 6" into the stock frame rail.

Most of the subframe connectors I've seen are visible when you are about 10-15" from the car. I decided to go with the Tinman units because they don't stand out much and if you did not know any better would think they are original.

This is not the best picture but you get the idea:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_1927JPG-1.jpg

[exwestracer]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_1927JPG-1.jpg

Pretty nice!

[Dolmaner]

I've installed the Tinman's on the bottom of my '67.

The Tinman subframe connectors require you to cut the back of the stock front frame rail. The subframe connector then slides 6" into the stock frame rail.

Most of the subframe connectors I've seen are visible when you are about 10-15" from the car. I decided to go with the Tinman units because they don't stand out much and if you did not know any better would think they are original.

This is not the best picture but you get the idea:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/100_1927JPG-1.jpg

Yeah thanks for the pic, I watched the video, theyre priced great too, I think Ill get a pair

[jr4452]

I agree, other than fabbing your own, you wont get a better fit than TinMan's. Nice stuff, and you probably can't build your own for less.

[Dolmaner]

Ok so Im looking for a clutch, I know nothing about clutchs except you need to press them to shift gears, anyone know of a website or book I can get to learn about clutches and how to replace them? Also what kind of clutch should I get, its a 289 4 speed. I dont know what sizes or anything to get
Sorry for the dumb questions :D

[AusMarty]

If it's the factory 4 speed and 289 mated together.
Go to an Auto parts store and ask them about clutches to fit the combo if it's a factory combo.
Then get a good strong clutch, what thickness and amount of plates is how you want your foot to feel, and how much power you wanna push through it.
Factory clutch will probably set you back around 200 for the complete clutch kit.

You will probably need to get your fly-wheel machined too.
Once that's done, just bolt it to the flywheel with the plate aligned with something round to shove in the spline, torque it down, then slide your box in.
Can be done by yourself.
But it's better with two people.