Noob with a Griggs GR350 questions

[85coupe50]

First thing is I am truly new to all the suspension and getting out and doing any time racing of any sort. Pro-Touring seems to be where I would love to hang my hat.

Now to the Questions.
Is Griggs Racing GR350 a good platform to run for Pro-Touring?
I have a 1964 Fairlane 2 door post (Thunderbolt chassis) and a GR350 suspension kit minus sway bars.
I have heard I can install this into the Fairlane no issues since the widths of the 64-66 Mustang were the same and used a lot of the same suspension.
Is this true? Any Fairlane guys out here or better yet Griggs people?

What can I expect from this install as far as ride quality and performance?

I will be running a set of Wilwood 4 piston FSLI calipers front (rear undermined need parking brake) with a Iron 408 with a tremec 3550 behind it. The wheels will be what I have lying around for now 17x8 front 245/45/17 and rear a 17x10.5 with a 315/35/17.

Front suspension is Dual A-arm and the rear is a wats link with a torque arm. Coil over bilstein shocks at all 4 corners.

Baically this kit... CLICK_HERE (http://www.griggsracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=4332_4308_4392_4417_4414&products_id=540&osCsid=f4f0eb48a68524aa23ce1556cdedb312)

The Griggs kit has the built/modified 8.8 rear end with 3.73 gears.

I know the rear install is pertty straight forward and the front is a little more involved.

Will this yeild a car that will be competitive in any way in SCCA or should I back up punt and get something from ART Morrison?

[exwestracer]

Torque arm and watts link...what's not to like?

As far as being competitive in SCCA, there's WAY WAY more to that question than whose suspension kit you put under the car...

[go-fish]

What class would you want to run in? If you don't know if the car will be competitive or not then it's probably time to get out to an event and look at the competition and see if you think YOU can drive as good as your future competition.

[GrabberGT]

I wonder if the torque arm might be a little short for his wheel base. It will work but not as designed. Im sure the length of the arm is tuned specifically for the Mustang platform. I wish I could provide more info on it but Im already talking above my pay grade.

[exwestracer]

I wonder if the torque arm might be a little short for his wheel base. It will work but not as designed. Im sure the length of the arm is tuned specifically for the Mustang platform. I wish I could provide more info on it but Im already talking above my pay grade.

Difference is 7". Not great, but shouldn't be the end of the world. It just means it will hit the rear tires a little harder on acceleration. It shouldn't really affect overall handling much.

[GrabberGT]

Difference is 7". Not great, but shouldn't be the end of the world. It just means it will hit the rear tires a little harder on acceleration. It shouldn't really affect overall handling much.

Thanks. I look forward to reading more theory in one of your inclement weather suspension discussions. I've adapted a TCI Mustang torque arm to my Maverick which has a has a 5" shorter wheel base. I suspect that I lost some forward bite as a result.

[85coupe50]

I guess it is more of this Optima series type time racing... If there is a need later to adjust the length I guess I could have another one made for it using the original as a template for the brackets and bolt placements.

I am really looking forward to the improved drivability straight up since the car glides over the roads now and is pretty unpredictable.

I had also looked into the FatMan setup for the Fairlane (Ring Brothers Afterburner)... Not sure that is truly designed to correct geometry. Uses SN95 Mustang spindles, brakes and coil over struts.

The Griggs GR350 suspension has to be way better than "STOCK".

Thanks for the input. I do appreciate it.

[Gitter Dun]

Call Griggs and talk to them. They make an awesome product and know their business well. Tell them what you want and they will set you up accordingly.

[exwestracer]

I believe the kit pictured in your link is for a Fox body (true strut front). It's probably just a generic photo... I doubt Griggs would be converting SLA fronts to strut, but I'd make sure; as they do mention use of a "later" spindle in the ad. A strut front is NOT the way to go for your Fairlane. Just something I would check into before buying.

[85coupe50]

I already have the suspension...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/DSCN4137-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/DSCN4132-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/DSCN4115-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/12/DSCN4142-1.jpg

It does utilize SN95 Mustang spindles and brakes.

[exwestracer]

Ahh...thought you were still looking.

Yes, I see where they adapted the strut spindles. It all looks about right...

I'd definitely recommend tying those shock towers into the cowl structure or cage bars, if you're building out to the front end.

[85coupe50]

Ahh...thought you were still looking.

Yes, I see where they adapted the strut spindles. It all looks about right...

I'd definitely recommend tying those shock towers into the cowl structure or cage bars, if you're building out to the front end.

That is what I was thinking as well on the tying in the frame to the cage bars. Just want to make sure there is some rigidity in the setup past the firewall.

Will the 7" in wheelbase be a huge deal on the torque arm? I mean will it possibly throw the suspension geometry off that much?

[exwestracer]

That is what I was thinking as well on the tying in the frame to the cage bars. Just want to make sure there is some rigidity in the setup past the firewall.

Will the 7" in wheelbase be a huge deal on the torque arm? I mean will it possibly throw the suspension geometry off that much?

It will have alomost zero effect on turn-in and max G load. Where you might see a difference is in corner exit when you pick the throttle up HARD. You will have higher anti-squat % with the shorter arm (all else being equal). Your arm is directly under the driveshaft, so you shouldn't have much torque roll effect (good). I'd say the car should be slightly tighter on corner exit than it would with a longer arm...BUT that all depends on available power and gear ratios.

[85coupe50]

It will have alomost zero effect on turn-in and max G load. Where you might see a difference is in corner exit when you pick the throttle up HARD. You will have higher anti-squat % with the shorter arm (all else being equal). Your arm is directly under the driveshaft, so you shouldn't have much torque roll effect (good). I'd say the car should be slightly tighter on corner exit than it would with a longer arm...BUT that all depends on available power and gear ratios.

That is good to hear. I won't think about it to much more then. Power should be there with 450-550HP depending on tune. I am thinking maybe some BIGGER tires will be in order for this car to really pull get the power to the ground!

[cheapthrillz]

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[/QUOTE]

^^^^^ The thread engagement on the lower ball joint is scary.....

[85coupe50]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif


^^^^^ The thread engagement on the lower ball joint is scary.....[/QUOTE]

Yes itt is... It is not tight at all... Most was tight enough to be put on a trailer and that is it. Mock up to test fit parts. This is all getting blown apart soon and then all the painting will happen and then back together.