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View Full Version : Rainy Day suspension basics...Nice rear end!



exwestracer
11-30-2011, 12:45 PM
Home today keeping an eye on a very sick wife, so I figured I'd add another installment...

So far we've looked at lowering the front of the car, and some effects of adding or changing sway bars. This time we'll explore some common terms (and misconceptions) about the rear of the car. Specifically typical solid axle suspensions. One thing that seems to be often misunderstood is the concept of instant center and anti-squat as it relates to a PT type car. Anti-squat is a very important advantage of a solid axle suspension (if designed correctly), but can also get us into serious trouble from a handling standpoint....

Anti-squat is really a simple concept. It is using the rearward rotation of the axle under acceleration to counteract the rearward weight transfer from that same acceleration.

Whenever we "punch it", we are pressed firmly back in the seat from inertia. The same thing happens to the car itself. The vehicles weight (mass) doesn't want to move, so it tries to lever back over the rear suspension; causing the body to drop down over the rear tires, or "squat". This is NOT a good thing. Anytime the body goes down over the tires, that weight is not being used to aid traction.

At the same time, the tires are trying to push the car forward. Again, the car's mass resists acceleration, so some of our engine torque is absorbed in the rear axle pinion climbing up the ring gear (rotating the housing backward)...Isaac Newton's "equal and opposite reaction" at work... The good news is, we can make use of this "lost" energy to help traction. Let's connect the rear axle housing to the chassis with a simple lever...just a steel bar welded to the axle housing and running forward to the frame. When we accelerate, the rearward rotation of the housing will press the bar up against the frame HARD; attempting to lift the car off the ground.

I cribbed this drawing off a Fiero site (!) of all places, but it's a very simple look at the effect I have been discussing.
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The rotation arrow on the tire is the direction the tire itself is turning. Keep in mind the axle housing is trying to rotate the opposite way ...note the force arrow UP where the bar meets the chassis "box". Sorry guys, but that's all a ladder bar or torque arm suspension is. Well, not ALL; but that's exactly how a torque arm manages the axle rotation torque. Now, the car has quite a bit of mass, so it's not likely the rear axle will be able to pick it up off the ground (and we wouldn't want it to!), but it's gonna TRY. As our lever is trying to lift the weight of the car, the fulcrum of the lever is getting heavier at the same time. In this case, the fulcrum is the rear axle housing, which... if I remember correctly... is attached directly to the rear tires. So the weight of the car is transferred directly to the tires, increasing traction. As the lever is lifting the car, it resists the natural tendency of the weight to fall to the rear..."anti" squat.

Where the lever attaches to the chassis detemines how much of that lift affects the rear or front of the car.
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As usual, it's not really that simple.

Of course, a simple lever may not always be the best way to attach the axle to the chassis, but we can get the same effect using a set of short links; a 3 or 4 link suspension.

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This is a version of a fairly common diagram, but it shows all the relevant info. The point at which the link planes converge is called the instant center, or IC, of the rear suspension. This is sort of like the attachment point of our simple lever, but the forces applied through this type of suspension are very different. We still have lift, but not in the same proportion as we had with the simple lever. You may also have noticed that the links allow the IC to move around in the chassis as the suspension travels up or down. In the lower half of this drawing, we see a line running from the bottom of the rear tire to a point above the front axle. This is referred to as the "neutral" line or 100% line. It passes through at the height of the center of gravity as shown. Any IC that falls on this line will exactly counteract the force trying to squat the car over the rear tires, so the result is "neutral" movement of the rear suspension.

All of this has nothing to do with springs or shocks. it's all done through the leverage of the suspension links. There's more to it than just slamming the tire into the road however, especially when the car needs to brake and turn as well.

exwestracer
11-30-2011, 01:13 PM
Something to keep in mind when dealing with any linkage type suspension is that there are 2 things happening at once under acceleration (or braking, but more on that later). The upper link(s) are resisting the axle rotation, so they are in tension. The lower links are taking the forward thrust of the axle housing, so they are in compression. ONLY the lower links are pushing the car forward in ANY linkage type solid axle suspension. That is why we usually try to design the suspension so the lower links are level with the ground at ride height, and pointed straight ahead. The bigger the horsepower and rear tires, the more important this becomes to stability under acceleration.

Since there are so many Camaros represented on this site, we'd better look at leaf spring suspensions. On one hand, calculating the IC and anti squat is pretty simple. The IC is the forward spring eye. Unlike a link type suspension this point is fixed in relation to the chassis, so finding the anti squat is also relatively easy. But, some of the anti squat force is further absorbed by spring wrap up; so we're not getting as much "bang for our buck" on acceleration.

As mentioned, it's not all about acceleration in a PT type car. Here's where the simplicity of our "lever" becomes an advantage. With any linkage type suspension, the same geometry that works well for acceleration can hurt under braking. When the forces are reversed on the housing (forward rotation), the anti squat causes the axle to want to jump up into the body. This can cause wheel hop under heavy braking (watch any fast drag car slowing down with the brakes). With a torque arm, there is no chance for the axle to roll forward, so the braking tradeoff can be much better. Leaf spring rear suspensions tend to have the same types of problems with spring wrap and wheel hop under braking as they do under acceleration.

Before anyone gets their feelings hurt about what I've said here...keep in mind we haven't gone into any sort of modifications or setups to counteract the problems I've outlined.

John Wright
11-30-2011, 01:35 PM
http://www.speed-wiz.com/calculations/suspension/anti-dive-squat-calculation.htm

Here's a quick and easy calculator(ie. does the math for you) for figuring anti-dive and anti-squat/anti-lift

EDIT:
eh...$30 for this calculator...sorry, I thought it was an online deal that you could use.

exwestracer
11-30-2011, 02:16 PM
http://www.speed-wiz.com/calculations/suspension/anti-dive-squat-calculation.htm

Here's a quick and easy calculator(ie. does the math for you) for figuring anti-dive and anti-squat/anti-lift

EDIT:
eh...$30 for this calculator...sorry, I thought it was an online deal that you could use.

John, IIRC, Billy Shope has one on his site. It's in Sticky list at the top of this forum.

exwestracer
11-30-2011, 02:33 PM
Anti-squat is the main reason stick axles are still quite popular in racing. We cannot get this effect with any sort of useable IRS system. The key is that the wheels are connected directly to the ring gear through the solid axle tube. When it comes to cornering, the better geometry and lower unsprung weight of an IRS become an advantage. For getting the car off the corner under acceleration, though, we're back in love with the solid axle.

The link angles also have an effect on cornering, as they can induce what is called "roll steer". As the chassis leans over the axle, the link angles change, and can skew the housing. A glaring example of this is found in dirt late model racing. These cars use 4 link suspensions (5 link actually, but that's another story) to move the rear axle several inches as the car rolls over into a corner.

Here's a shot of Steve Francis with some very obvious roll steer going on:
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This works for dirt cars, but the tradeoff is the amount of travel and body roll it takes to get the links that twisted up. That would have most of us puking on our shoes if we tried to drive like that on the street or road course... Another reason to start out with the lower links straight and level. It will usually minimize the amount of roll steer we get with typical suspension travel.

Enough for now. A little later we'll look at the relative merits of different suspension designs, so strap on those boxing gloves!:box: