Help this kid with his car -

[Anti Asparagus Anomaly]

I'm a sophomore in high school and I've been aching for a car - and it's about time.
Before anyone bashes me for being in over my head, please read what I have to say. I have a part time job, and have accumulated 2,000$ in the past 3 months, and my dad is agreeing to throw in 4,000 as long as I keep working and keep the money towards my goal of getting my car. to be forward, I want a muscle car, because who can't resist blowing them ricers away?>:rotfl: lol
on to the point - since there are a lot of factors, especially in your first car, what would be reasonable? me, my dad and my friends will be most or all of the repairs ourselves.
My wants are:
*It must be American.
*It's got to be somewhat fair on insurance
*It's got to be easy to repair at home
*It has to be modd-able. I want it to be faster than 14 secs. in the 1/4 but slower than 12.
*It's gotta be fun.
*I want to a car before 1973, but only if possible, simply because of emissions testing. yuck :P
So what do you older folks think? maybe a 90' iroc z? a disco nova?I wanted a 66' malibu, but I guess that's not to realistic...
*I also have a wide range of access to chevrolet parts as well for cheap, my uncle has a dozen sbc's around his garage lol
Thank you again for your opinions and responses :)

[19,69camaro]

I would check out GM A Bodys there are some deals to be had if you find some of the oddball low production models

[Blown73]

A nova is a relatively easy car to find on a budget. get something with a solid body and good running gear and make mods as you go. For a first car, you want reliability...

[rfalker1]

I would say a Nova too... but for u since u have an abundance of chevy parts I would make sure its a chevy

[LeighP]

Nova, or the Pontiac version Ventura.....maybe.
3rd gen F bodies are great bang for the buck, all have SBC drivetrains, and they do drive really nicely.
At this stage, I'd go the 3rd gen with your budget, you'll get further.....the older you go ,and the more popular the model, the less your budget will help you out.
A T-top 3rd gen Formula or Trans Am would be a very cool car....add some bracing and suspension mods and you'll have a great handler that hasn't cost you the earth.

[formula]

Late 2nd gen or 3rd gen for sure. Or, realistically, an lt1 4th gen.

[Anti Asparagus Anomaly]

Thanks for your suggestions - I'll be sure to look around the local classifieds for 3rd gens and novas. I'm leaning towards the 3rd gen, because the law states that you can swap in parts from later-year cars of the same model, so later down the road i'd be able to legally do an ls swap, which is nice to have that door open. should I be looking for a manual or an automatic? my dad said automatic because i can eat, text, and have an open hand, but I don't text alot- at all, and I wouldn't want to spill food all over the car...on the other hand, the manual would, in theory, keep me more focused on my driving. yes? no?

[67cougnut]

Unless the parts your uncle has are nice enough parts to constitute a chevy purchase dont let that sway your decision. If I were you I would be looking at an Iroc style Camaro or Mustang 5.0 simply because there are plenty of go fast emission legal parts and upon your purchase you'll have a decent looking,performing,handling car and there is a decent amount of bolt-ons that are affordable, under-drive pullies,throttle body,performance chip etc. for the most part either of those cars are a 14 sec. rig and with a Gear swap can def reduce your e.t. Best of all depending on year may have an air bag which can knock down the insurance a little and with efi will have better fuel economy so your not always putting money in the tank, which lets face it as a teen you will only have so much $$ to spend right? this way you can still enjoy the luxurys of a newer vehicle with added reliability so you can go do things with your friends. best part is if your heart is set on building an older car atleast you can put money into the drive train which could later on be transferred into your muscle car. Also with the budget you currently have unless you are into some the odd ball 70's GM's why force your hand in buying one now. To me when buying a muscle car you should pic something your are very much into because while throwing money in the "black hole" also knwon as your project its very easy to loose interest. with the way gm 5spds are and in your current situation id say go with a 5.7L a/t (5.7 only came with a/t's from the factory) Camaro 86-92 OR go with an 87-93 mustang 5.0 5spd mass air car. if you cannot find a Mass air car converting is not bad at all either. both Cars are easy to work on and parts galore are available and as an EX 5.0 guy I'd say say go mustang since I know a gear swap and bolt ons makes for an easy 13 sec. car and ive had some that were low 12sec high 11 sec cars while passing emissions in CA! For A/t go Iroc OR for a 5spd car GO 5.0 just my .02

[Yelcamino]

You can have my '86 Z28 with the Intro wheels and Nitto tires for $3500 and I'm not very far way from you. Take a look at the PT.com classifieds and/or PM me if you're interested.

[67cougnut]

You can have my '86 Z28 with the Intro wheels and Nitto tires for $3500 and I'm not very far way from you. Take a look at the PT.com classifieds and/or PM me if you're interested.

to O.P. here ya go this Camaro would be a very solid start. motor and tranny are Fresh looks like it has exhaust,nice wheels and a little bit of suspension mods. For $3500 its a great start.

[Vicinity]

I'm a sophomore in high school and I've been aching for a car - and it's about time.
Before anyone bashes me for being in over my head, please read what I have to say. I have a part time job, and have accumulated 2,000$ in the past 3 months, and my dad is agreeing to throw in 4,000 as long as I keep working and keep the money towards my goal of getting my car. to be forward, I want a muscle car, because who can't resist blowing them ricers away?>:rotfl: lol
on to the point - since there are a lot of factors, especially in your first car, what would be reasonable? me, my dad and my friends will be most or all of the repairs ourselves.
My wants are:
*It must be American.
*It's got to be somewhat fair on insurance
*It's got to be easy to repair at home
*It has to be modd-able. I want it to be faster than 14 secs. in the 1/4 but slower than 12.
*It's gotta be fun.
*I want to a car before 1973, but only if possible, simply because of emissions testing. yuck :P
So what do you older folks think? maybe a 90' iroc z? a disco nova?I wanted a 66' malibu, but I guess that's not to realistic...
*I also have a wide range of access to chevrolet parts as well for cheap, my uncle has a dozen sbc's around his garage lol
Thank you again for your opinions and responses :)

That was my thinking, too. $16000 and 2 years later, I'm still working to get it running. Get a newer car, the sooner you can drive it, the happier you'll be. Trust me on this one.

EDIT: I'm 21, in High School I had a 2001 Camaro with an LS1, I'd highly recommend that car for you, but you'll need probably an additional 2-4k, but it's a GREAT car for the money, and you'll be starting with the best platform.

[Anti Asparagus Anomaly]

I like that offer alot to be honest. I guess I'll scrap the pre-1973 idea, and I'll talk these new ideas over with me dad, and I'll see hat he sais. thanks yellcamino,but the 350 wasn't offered in 1986-so by marylands standards, I think I would fail the emissions testing? could a little...."tip" to the emissions guy help me pass? would they even care? thanks for the responses, all of you gae some great reccomendations and tips, and offers.

[Yelcamino]

I like that offer alot to be honest. I guess I'll scrap the pre-1973 idea, and I'll talk these new ideas over with me dad, and I'll see hat he sais. thanks yellcamino,but the 350 wasn't offered in 1986-so by marylands standards, I think I would fail the emissions testing? could a little...."tip" to the emissions guy help me pass? would they even care? thanks for the responses, all of you gae some great reccomendations and tips, and offers.

Externally, all small blocks look the same, so I doubt the emissions guy even knows how to tell the difference. The 350 is pretty mild but could be made even milder and emissions compliant with a smaller cam. If that doesn't work, you could always sell the 350 and buy an emissions legal 305. Just some food for thought. You and your dad could always come by and take a look at it if you want.

I was just thinking, the guy I bought the car from was in MD. Not sure if the emissions standards are based on county or not but, if you're interested, it might be worth looking into.

[Vicinity]

I like that offer alot to be honest. I guess I'll scrap the pre-1973 idea, and I'll talk these new ideas over with me dad, and I'll see hat he sais. thanks yellcamino,but the 350 wasn't offered in 1986-so by marylands standards, I think I would fail the emissions testing? could a little...."tip" to the emissions guy help me pass? would they even care? thanks for the responses, all of you gae some great reccomendations and tips, and offers.

We don't have Emissions in St Mary's County, at least, not last time I registered a car. Food for thought.

EDIT: It also qualifies for Historic Tags. (No inspection required) :)

[67cougnut]

not sure how close you are to these but here is a few ideas.

big brakes,5-lug,17's,gears,suspension,ac/heat work,low miles, stick
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/2686455843.html

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/cto/2681999180.html

high miles but very nice!
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/cto/2680742638.html

not sure if youve ever considered a truck but these came with factory 4:10's, GT40 intake,bigger injectors,GT40 heads about a 14.50 truck off the showroom floor. I know they arent the prettiest but lowered with wheels and a cowl hood and they look pretty good for example:
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=93+lightning+pickup&hl=en&biw=1133&bih=554&gbv=2&tbm=isch&tbnid=4nOoKsu0jCIMzM:&imgrefurl=http://www.cardomain.com/ride/646823/1993-ford-f150-regular-cab&docid=nuAmGDdi45dtDM&imgurl=http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2588/1461/6468230001_large.jpg&w=575&h=431&ei=zCe3TqfXBKLTiAKHi-U-&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=445&sig=108554691027657555599&page=9&tbnh=150&tbnw=228&start=90&ndsp=9&ved=1t:429,r:1,s:90&tx=158&ty=85

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/2643824699.html

some good bolt ons here plus gears:
http://chambersburg.craigslist.org/cto/2643438871.html

stroker motor plus other goodies
http://chambersburg.craigslist.org/cto/2614180860.html

http://chambersburg.craigslist.org/cto/2613928616.html

had one of these trucks its like driving a small block s10 comes factory with 3:89 gears I went 13.80 with exhaust and cold air intake
http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/cto/2681553558.html

had a few extra minutes and thought id throw some ideas out there.

[67cougnut]

Externally, all small blocks look the same, so I doubt the emissions guy even knows how to tell the difference. The 350 is pretty mild but could be made even milder and emissions compliant with a smaller cam. If that doesn't work, you could always sell the 350 and buy an emissions legal 305. Just some food for thought. You and your dad could always come by and take a look at it if you want.

This is very true ive seen low compression super mildly built 383 pass smog in a mid 80's montecarlo SS whcih only came with a 305. Another car when done right would be cool to have.

[67cougnut]

heres a couple of old cars that may be worth looking into:

http://smd.craigslist.org/cto/2680680396.html

http://easternshore.craigslist.org/cto/2652242446.html

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/2688055332.html

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/2683975709.html

[muthstryker]

I would jump on Herb's camaro dude thats a damn nice car for $3500, Especially for a kid in highschool. Plus its already got wheels to boot! I dont know man, I dont think I would pass that thing up.

[Project92rs]

Something to think about if you're looking at 3rd gen Camaro's or Firebirds, don't get an IROC, Z28, TransAm or GTA if you're concerned about the price of insurance. Loot at the RS and base Firebird models. The insurance will be a lot less (my 88 GTA is almost double my 92 RS on insurance for the same coverage) and the purchase price might be lower as well. Since they are the same car in terms of how everything goes together, you can then mod the car to the same level you would have taken the IROC to without paying the higher insurance rates associated with the IROC badge on the fender. Also, depending on your ability to do a computer tune on the older cars, you might want to look for a 82 - 86 with a carb instead of FI. You can always add a standalone modern fuel injection system later.

[BonzoHansen]

Herb's camaro sounds perfect. I was going to say I have a very clean 81Z28 t-top roller here in NJ but the bang for the buck of that 3rd gen is a win for you.

[Dolmaner]

Im in the same-ish boat as you, Im 16 and looking for my first car, I definitly want a 60s 70s car, right now theres alot of Darts and Demons for sale, pretty cheap too. but im a big mopar fan so yknow

[Anti Asparagus Anomaly]

I do like the camaro alot. my dad doesn't have the extra $$ yet, but he said he'd pull it together when he can because we just got alot of new kitchen appliances. most likely by summer, sais he...
but I've seen cheap darts and demons too, they're pretty cool and could be nice sleepers, I think

[muthstryker]

If you want something older, look into 64-67 Cutlass' I dont know about your area but here in Washington you can get really nice drivers for under 6k.. Just another option.

[andrewb70]

Why not combine the best of "ricers" and good 'ole American V8 power? I build a second gen RX7 (FC) with an LS6/T56 combo and it was an amazing car. If you look in the south you can find rust free cars with original, albeit faded paint under $2000. The FCs were incredibly well engineered cars. I would start with a Turbo II model because it will have 4 piston calipers in the front and have a stronger rear end. The cars were packed with awesome features like forged aluminum front control arms, aluminum hood, and independent rear suspension. There is tremendous support from various small vendors that make swap parts. I would do an aluminum block 5.3L engine, swap on a car intake, add a T56, maybe a LS6 cam and springs. All that can be done within your budget and you will have a car that will run circles around most old American cars. Check out the v8 RX7 forum for inspiration:

www.norotors.com

A quick look at the local Craiglist and I found this:

http://memphis.craigslist.org/cto/2650917854.html

1991 was the last year of the second gens and this one is a prime example with the highly desirable black interior. It is not a turbo model, but the turbo related driveline components, like calipers and rear end can easily be swapped in. Food for thought.

Andrew

[406 Q-ship]

In the boat you are I would take a look at the 1970-72 Buick Skylark, they are really a Chevelle under the skin (in fact the trunk lids interchange). A SBC will bolt in without a hassle, all the suspension pieces for the A-bodies bolt on making a well handling package. Skylark have never been the cost of the other GM A-bodies, El Caminos are alot cheaper than Chevelle too. Monte Carlos from 1970-72 can be a great value for the pre-1973 models. If you go for the nonperformance models (remember this will be a DD for a teenager without big money) will keep the cost to buy, take care of, and insure more reasonable. When the time is right you will have a desirable car to sell, or one that can take all the mods to build the car you want.

I like the Demon/Duster/Dart/Valiant if you go for Chrysler. Ford, I would look at Torinos in the years from 1970 to 1972, there is still some values out there. Mustangs in coupe form can be not too nuts in price if you stick to the less sought after years (1971-1973).

What about a GM truck of the same era?

[Anti Asparagus Anomaly]

Thanks, but I actually found a cool car... a C3 vette, it has the plastic bumper. my friend and his dad (a mechanic) checked it out and said it was mechanically sound - but it needs body work. I figured because it was fiberglass theres no rust, and they'd help me with the body provided I paid for the cost of paint. Insurance wise, would this cheaper than a 80's vette? or more expensive? I figured because it was god awful slow (only 180 hp) and was not a collectible (that's why it's so cheap) that insurance wouldn't blow me away as bad as if I bought a vintage vette or a new C6. what do you think...?

[shortrack]

Thanks, but I actually found a cool car... a C3 vette, it has the plastic bumper. my friend and his dad (a mechanic) checked it out and said it was mechanically sound - but it needs body work. I figured because it was fiberglass theres no rust, and they'd help me with the body provided I paid for the cost of paint. Insurance wise, would this cheaper than a 80's vette? or more expensive? I figured because it was god awful slow (only 180 hp) and was not a collectible (that's why it's so cheap) that insurance wouldn't blow me away as bad as if I bought a vintage vette or a new C6. what do you think...?

With some with some satin grey torque thrusts and flat black header sidepipes one of the baddest cars on the road......my friend did a 68 - 72 rear end conversion....very cool.....but anything you do to it will be more expensive cause its a Vette

[Anti Asparagus Anomaly]

Darn, that sucks. I was thinking that the vette would be about as expensive as a camaro, because on the road I tend to see more older guys buying a vette, and I see guys in their late teens or early 20's driving a camaro,even though the vette is a tad faster. expensive insurance sucks :(

[shortrack]

Darn, that sucks. I was thinking that the vette would be about as expensive as a camaro, because on the road I tend to see more older guys buying a vette, and I see guys in their late teens or early 20's driving a camaro,even though the vette is a tad faster. expensive insurance sucks :(

doesnt mean dont do it just be aware

[andrewb70]

Corvette bodies don't rust but their steel frames and birdcages sure do...

Andrew

[Drafie1]

chevelle or nova

[Drafie1]

1973 chevelle I bought mine for a 1000 and dropped a 454chevy and a overdrive trans
I finished it in 6 months and it can do donuts any time u ask it to and does the 1/4 mile in about 12 but I got it too 10.996 with a supercharger that I bought for 1500 it's a hell of a car and I would tell u to buy a chevelle because u can fix it up easily with just a couple of bolts its a hell of a car

[MonzaRacer]

Too bad your so far away, I have a 1969 Pontiac Ventura 2dr for sale.
And I'll let it go reasonable.
I call sell it with engine, minus some parts. Or less engine.
It already has limited slip.
I has been said from others it might be a true 428 car. It did come from Cali with a 428. I picked car up as bare car. Another guy got 428 then over heated it at demo.
PM if interested. One issue, its in Indiana.

[Mkelcy]

The OP has probably purchased a car during the three years since he started the thread.

[first64]

*****

[nekkidhillbilly]

buy a 4 door anything................the cost is nothing. you are leaps and bounds ahead by getting a 70 up car too.

[Gratefuldiver]

Happy New Years

[indyjps]

93 to 97 LT1 cars go cheap, since they don't have an LS,

look around for someone who put too much money into it and can't get it back out. Make offers, I've gotten a lot of good deals cause of kids on the way, going to school, lost license etc.

[indyjps]

Here you go, needs everything, swap in a 5.3 truck engine and trans. Block sand it out and shoot red single stage in the driveway. http://annapolis.craigslist.org/cto/4825467417.html

Another, gotta be rough at this price, but it sounds like it drives.
http://annapolis.craigslist.org/cto/4817221915.html