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View Full Version : Bad Ast steeering u-joint/intermediate shaft construction WELDING?



astroracer
11-02-2011, 03:52 PM
I have a few questions about the intermediate steering shaft for Bad Ast. At this point I have rotated the Corvette rack up, about 5 degrees past verticle. This gets the input shaft where it needs to be for decent steering angles for the u-joints. I need a 1" dbl D to connect to the Astro column and a 17mm dbl D for the input shaft on the Corvette rack. Sweet has the u-joints and they both adapt to a 3/4" diameter round shaft. My question is, can I build the intermediate shaft out of 3/4" dia shaft material and then WELD the u-joints to the shaft after I get them oriented to the column and rack? I guess this done all the time but I need to ask the question...
The pics are from my Bad Ast thread as I was developing the steering angles back in 2006!. I may look into adding a double joint to the mix.
TOP VIEW...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2006/11/19no06_pg1vi-1.jpg

FRONT & SIDE VIEWS...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2006/11/19no06_pg2vi-1.jpg

You can see in the side view the angle is greatly improved and I think, with a little more developement it will work fine.
I am hoping it will be fine for bleeding.
Thanks for looking.
Mark

astroracer
11-03-2011, 02:48 AM
Anybody?

exwestracer
11-03-2011, 03:19 AM
Mark,
Yes, the u-joints can be welded to the shaft, but there are a few things to consider. Can you get the shaft back out of the chassis if necessary? If welding the shaft up presents a problem in this regard, I would recommend a splined connection at one end. The joints (and shaft) are available DD to spilne, so this shouldn't pose much of a problem.

Also, various manufacturers make different styles of u-joint. I would recommend getting joints that are regular steel (not stainless) and un-coated. You should only weld them with a TIG, and if you are not confident with your TIG skill, take it to someone who does this kind of thing regularly. The thinner the wall of the u-joint yoke, and tube, the less heat you will need to get a quality weld. We make steering shafts out of 3/4 X .065" 4130 all the time without issues. Solid shaft is NOT necessary. To prevent damage to the u joint bearings, weld a small amount at a time and allow the joint to cool. A wet rag on the cross is OK, but do not cool the area of the weld itself.

I notice one area on the drawings that may pose a problem. Steering u joints are designed to run at a maximum angle of 30deg. At the bottom of your column you have a 37 degree angle. Even the long yoke u joints found on many OEM cars are not going to like running at more than a 30 deg angle, contrary to popular belief. Adding another joint and a second short shaft would alleviate the problem, just remember that one of the shafts will need a support at that point. There are "3/4 plus" steering shaft heim joints made for just that purpose.

Hope this helps.

astroracer
11-03-2011, 04:09 AM
Thanks Ray,
Very helpful and supportive to my thoughts, which is what I was looking for.
The upper joint will be a double u-joint to get around the 68 degree angle with a 1" dbl D from the Astro column to a 3/4" round. The lower joint will be a single 3/4" round to the Corvette 17mm dbl D. I am going to do some experimenting with some extra Astro I-shafts I have and see what I can come up with. There will be no issues getting it on and off. The only welding to be done is inbetween the upper and lower joints. If I can come up with joints that adapt to a double D shaft I will use those rather than weld.
I have a question in to Borgeson to see what they recommend.
I will order some 3/4" 4130 to make the shaft.
Thanks again.
Mark

astroracer
11-04-2011, 09:42 AM
If anyone has ANY steering design questions they should contact Gil at Borgeson. www.borgeson.com
Gil got me pointed in the right direction with part numbers for both joints and the support bearing. He found me a set of joints that will work with the Astro 1" DD output and 17mm DD Corvette input with a 3/4" DD in between. This is much better than having to weld up the I-shaft.
Their site also has a lot of data that was a good refresher for me when I looked through it. I know this stuff is pricey but their prices weren't out of line with either Jegs or Speedway (a few bucks more).
Mark