Can I bend the steering arms inward?

[Vicinity]

My tie rod ends/steering arms are rubbing the very edge of the lip of my wheel, preventing the wheels from rolling smoothly.

Can I take the arms off and bend them very slightly inward (toward the subframe), safely? Would there be any downside to doing this?

I plan to get everything aligned as soon as I get tags on it.

[sik68]

I would just be a little worried to instigate a microcrack that my grow over time...make sure you heat them up so they are a bit more ductile.

Alternatively, how about shimming the arms with a washer or 2, or a small wheel spacer?

[Vicinity]

Alternatively, how about shimming the arms with a washer or 2?

That might work, too.

I'll go try that. I always tend to think with a hammer. :)

I'm currently running 1.75 inches of wheel spacers, I don't want to bring the wheel outward anymore.

[parsonsj]

Moving the outer tie rod attach point will affect bumpsteer and ackerman. The more you move it... the more effect you'll have. If you're talking about an 1/8" or so, then you'll probably be ok.

Have you consider grinding the steering arm for clearance?

[Vicinity]

Moving the outer tie rod attach point will affect bumpsteer and ackerman. The more you move it... the more effect you'll have. If you're talking about an 1/8" or so, then you'll probably be ok.

Have you consider grinding the steering arm for clearance?

It's rubbing on the tie rod end portion of where they meet (the joint). Wasn't to sure if I could grind that, because it has a grease fitting.

Here's an older pic, but it's the same problem, just less of it (with the new setup it barely touches, no where near as bad as that pic).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/20110314_181643_149-1.jpg

[BigVin]

Shim wheel with wheel spacers

[exwestracer]

If that is a bolt on steering arm (looks like it in the pics), you can buy ones that are configred differently for drop spindles, etc.

Try hitting up Marcus at SC&C, he's pretty sharp with this stuff and might have a bolt on solution for you...

[130fe]

Have you thought about getting a set of the shorter steering arms? That way you wouldn't have to worry about affecting the geometry (bending them). I bet you have the long arms.

http://www.pozziracing.com/camaro_steering.htm (about 1/2 down the page)

[Vicinity]

Have you thought about getting a set of the shorter steering arms? That way you wouldn't have to worry about affecting the geometry (bending them). I bet you have the long arms.

http://www.pozziracing.com/camaro_steering.htm (about 1/2 down the page)

Does anyone still sell those arms? GMPartsdirect comes up with nothing.

I grinded the tie rod for a quick fix just for now. It has very little clearance. I can move the car around now.

[zombiekiller]

maybe make new tie rods and use high strength heims while reaming the arms or run a smaller body TRE? I'll bet ya there's a smaller TRE that will work and has the same taper.

[Vicinity]

maybe make new tie rods and use high strength heims while reaming the arms or run a smaller body TRE? I'll bet ya there's a smaller TRE that will work and has the same taper.

Was looking on Jeg's yesterday for one, but they don't list any kind of measurements, just "applications".

[zombiekiller]

Was looking on Jeg's yesterday for one, but they don't list any kind of measurements, just "applications".

take one off the car and mic it. go into the local parts joint with your taper, length and TRE body size. Bring your mic. Spend an hour with a parts guy and find what will work. or call one of the performance balljoint/tre joints and ask. I'm sure they exist.

Jeg's kind of sucks for specific info on parts. you almost have to find your part number, then search their site for it.

[Kenova]

http://www.ridetech.com/store/suspension-components/tru-turn/tru-turn-upgrade-package-1967-69-gm-f-body.html

This is probably the best solution. This kit was designed for the very problem you are having.

Ken

[Vicinity]

http://www.ridetech.com/store/suspension-components/tru-turn/tru-turn-upgrade-package-1967-69-gm-f-body.html

This is probably the best solution. This kit was designed for the very problem you are having.

Ken

Yeah, I was looking at that last week, I was guessing it was what I need. I just need to save some cash for it. My steering linkage feels pretty worn anyway. I was looking between the Ridetech and the Hotchkis solutions, Ridetech's seems to be geared more towards fitting fatter tires.

I guess I'll ride with the grinded solution for a while, until I can fit that in the budget.

[BMR Tech]

How much negative camber are you running? I built a car a while back that had the same issue when I first put the wheels on and set the car on the ground. I spent a few hours looking for lower profile tie rod ends, shorter steering arms, etc. only to realize that I hadn't even messed with the alignment yet. When I actually set the camber I wanted, the tie rod cleared. If it is that close and you have a conservative camber setting, you might be able to just add a little more negative camber and get the clearance you are looking for.

Alternately, you could probably shim the steering arm out slightly since it is so close to clearing. As John said above, an 1/8" will more than likely not effect much but would probably give you the clearance you need.

If none of these are viable solutions you could run a low-profile bumpsteer kit like these from Chassisworks:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/bumpsteerkitsfromchassisworks-1.jpg

All-in-all the Tru Turn kit would be the best solution in my opinion if you have the $.

[130fe]

I saw these in the Speedway Motors catalog- http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1967-69-Camaro-Steering-Arms,24953.html They say they are the "short" one. I would give them a call and see what measurement they are (using David's webiste as a reference).

[Vicinity]

I saw these in the Speedway Motors catalog- http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1967-69-Camaro-Steering-Arms,24953.html They say they are the "short" one. I would give them a call and see what measurement they are (using David's webiste as a reference).

I'm gonna check into that. I think those combined with the Chassisworks TRE posted above might be enough to safely clear the inside wheel.

[MonzaRacer]

From the looks of it if you were to use a bumpsteer kit and move the tie rode to the other side of the steering arm you would put the tie rods in straighter line with ball joint lowering the bump steer issues also.

[exwestracer]

From the looks of it if you were to use a bumpsteer kit and move the tie rode to the other side of the steering arm you would put the tie rods in straighter line with ball joint lowering the bump steer issues also.

Good point, Lee, but by the time he got the heim spaced up for clearance, it would likely be too far the other way.

[Vicinity]

Damn, I went for a drive and the Tie Rod moved again and caught the wheel a sheered off more.

I'm going to the auto parts store to pick up a heim joint and see if I can't do something about this now.

[keithq69]

I'm a little confused by what BMR said about the camber settings.
The steering arm and the wheel are on a fixed unit, they are both attached to the spindle.
When you adjust the camber by adding or subtracting shims behind the control arm the wheel and the steering arm move together.
Am I missing something?

Sounds to me like you need to run a larger diameter wheel if you don't want to change the steering arm.
I didn't realize there was a short steering arm. I knew there was a short pitman arm and idler arm but had forgotten about the steering arm.
I think that is probably your best bet, find out what you have and it you don't have the shortest arm then get it.
Just remember that it will increase the steering effort because you have less mechanical advantage.

[MrQuick]

I'm a little confused by what BMR said about the camber settings.
The steering arm and the wheel are on a fixed unit, they are both attached to the spindle.
When you adjust the camber by adding or subtracting shims behind the control arm the wheel and the steering arm move together.
Am I missing something?
Sounds to me like you need to run a larger diameter wheel if you don't want to change the steering arm.
I didn't realize there was a short steering arm. I knew there was a short pitman arm and idler arm but had forgotten about the steering arm.
I think that is probably your best bet, find out what you have and it you don't have the shortest arm then get it.
Just remember that it will increase the steering effort because you have less mechanical advantage.


what it does is it puts more pressure on the wheel bearing, providing more clearance.


but seriously, the dropped spindle fubars the deal.
great excuss to run 18's....


How much negative camber are you running? I built a car a while back that had the same issue when I first put the wheels on and set the car on the ground. I spent a few hours looking for lower profile tie rod ends, shorter steering arms, etc. only to realize that I hadn't even messed with the alignment yet. When I actually set the camber I wanted, the tie rod cleared. If it is that close and you have a conservative camber setting, you might be able to just add a little more negative camber and get the clearance you are looking for.

Alternately, you could probably shim the steering arm out slightly since it is so close to clearing. As John said above, an 1/8" will more than likely not effect much but would probably give you the clearance you need.

If none of these are viable solutions you could run a low-profile bumpsteer kit like these from Chassisworks:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/bumpsteerkitsfromchassisworks-1.jpg

All-in-all the Tru Turn kit would be the best solution in my opinion if you have the $.

[David Pozzi]

The new arms are medium length. Camaro/Firebird through 69, or Nova & it's GM cousins Olds Appollo, Pontiac Ventura through 1974 use the same subframe & power steering versions are likely to have the short arms.
You can space the steering arms in 1/2" using longer bolts. It sounds like your wheel backspace is pretty far off.

[LS6 Tommy]

If none of these are viable solutions you could run a low-profile bumpsteer kit like these from Chassisworks:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/bumpsteerkitsfromchassisworks-1.jpg

IFAIK, that kit will create more interference with the wheel as it's designed to lower the outer tie rod end... I very well may be wrong & I'm not arguing your knowledge, seeing as you're actually in a suspension company.

Tommy