PDA

View Full Version : Underside of car: body color or black



MuscleRodz
06-24-2005, 04:26 PM
I plan to drive my Camaro when fiinished so I know the obvious choice would be black for sanitary reasons. I would prefer to paint it body color for detail and contrast. I know rock chips would so more as well. I thought I read here somewhere about a 3M clearcoat treatment to help prevent damage. Does anyone else remember it being mentioned in a thread? What are your opinions on this issue if you had the choice. Thanks.

Mike

Roger Poirier
07-08-2005, 02:46 PM
Definitely body color. There has to be a paint that comes in color, yet has a texture to it. This way you could touch up without showing any marks. I know this paint is available in black. They used this paint on the underneath of Sickfish Cuda. PM Frank at Prodigy or other painters on this forum. R.P.

ProdigyCustoms
07-08-2005, 03:52 PM
Body color looks killa. Stone chips really are not a problem as you don't have stones flying under the car. If you want texture and protection, along with some sound deadening, We us a product called body Shultz that is simlar to the stuff the factory uses in the wheel wells. You could also use chip guard like the factory uses on lower rockers and such. You could chip guard it since Body Shultz require a $500 gun, and paint the chip guard. It will hold up fine, and look killer. It will just look orange peally
Check out this 62.

F70t/a
07-09-2005, 03:54 PM
Frank,

Whats the process for doing the underside like that? Is it just body Shultz,primer,base,clear? D you do any wet sanding at all?

parsonsj
07-09-2005, 05:04 PM
I painted my car's underneath and engine compartment a complementary color to the body color. It is dark and single stage, but not black. I was trying to get a machine gray-like color but still have it look good.

I left it in "amateur spray gun finish", meaning a little bumpy. Hopefully it will hide dirt and scratches a little better that way. It's probably driving my painter crazy (Keith at Road Killer) as he's doing the rest of the car.

jp

ProdigyCustoms
07-09-2005, 06:17 PM
Body Shultz then to color after it flashes over night. If you catch it 8 to 12 hours, no prep required. If you mis that window, you will have to scotchbrite it good. I suggest a single stage urethane underneath, your paint store can make some to match your base clear.

Duesey
07-11-2005, 04:27 AM
I just used SEM 2part spray in bedliner under my chevelle this weekend. I sprayed it black but they also sell it tintable so it could be made to body color. It's a heavy texture similiar to Frank's picture. I sandblasted completely underneath then used Black Epoxy Primer and shot it with a couple coats of bedliner. It's an easy way to finish off a PT car. It will be durable, look good, clean easy, and if you have a pitted frame like most of these cars it will hide it instead of loading and blocking the frame.

MuscleRodz
07-11-2005, 08:35 AM
The textured bottom is a good idea I have thought about but did not want to use a spray in bedliner as it tends to dull over time. The body Shultz sounds like the best way to go and paint body color. I will see if someone local has a gun I can use. Thanks for the input.

Mike

Travis B
07-11-2005, 09:20 AM
We used that OEM chip guard on the bottom on the Nomad we are doing, it is all red and textured! Wheel wells underside of car everything that could get dinged!

Duesey
07-11-2005, 11:31 AM
I would think the tintable liner isn't gonna fade nor will the bottom of the car. UV rays are what usually dulls a bedliner and I suppose it won't be on it's lid unless it's a jeep. I would rather have a tintable or black bedliner coating then a heavy coating with paint over the top of it. A local guy used the SEM on his truck a few years ago and it still looks good so that's why I used it. The SEM is basically like the Morton except it's two part. The pores are closed and is much nice than herculiner type of bedliners.

ProdigyCustoms
07-11-2005, 07:53 PM
Wurth products sells the Body Shultz, They call it SKS. Find Wurth if they are in your area. They only sell their products, and they usually do not sell to retailers

JoshStratton
07-11-2005, 08:58 PM
Frank,

What's the difference between this Shultz stuff and something like Line-x, that we were talking about in that other post? I thought Sickfish had Line-x coating the underside of it.

capbuster
07-12-2005, 05:32 AM
Thanks for the references Frank!

I did a search for Wurth SKS and found the compound ($25/liter)
and the application gun for ~$60.

This is exactly what I was wanting to do to the underside of my '67.

Wurth SKS application gun (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00064CKK8/sr=1-3/qid=1121174593/ref=sr_1_3/002-8053426-9564017?%5Fencoding=UTF8&n=14023931&s=automotive&v=glance)

How much of the compound would you need for the average car?
Complete underside and wheel wells.

Brent Jarvis
07-12-2005, 11:16 AM
Mike.

The semi gloss black is the hardest to clean and least durable. A gloss paint either single or base clear looks the best and is pretty tough stuff. It's also the hardest to do. Thats why you don't see a lot of guys doing it. The floors have to be perfect. The body shultz or chip guard is definatly the toughest stuff. BUT it looks like crap and very amature. You won't see competative ISCA cars or any really nice show cars with that finish undernieth. Body shultz is also great to cover up rough bodywork.That's another reason many guys use it. I always opt for a straight perferct clean shiny floor. I've driven my show cars thousands of miles with no problems. Remember my NMCA 7 second Purple Pro street 59 Corvette? It has over 700 1/4 mile runs with most in the sevens and thousands of street miles on it. All that with a three stage candy ISCA championship winning paint job top and Bottom!! The only thing I ever had to do was repaint the rear tubs from the abuse of all those 300 foot burnouts.
Good luck with your project!
Brent Jarvis

Travis B
07-12-2005, 12:45 PM
Frank,

What's the difference between this Shultz stuff and something like Line-x, that we were talking about in that other post? I thought Sickfish had Line-x coating the underside of it.


The sick fish and all of troys cars have what is called speed liner that is also tintable!

JoshStratton
07-12-2005, 03:10 PM
Thats right! I thought it was Line-X. What is the difference between the speed liner and Shultz?

Duesey
07-13-2005, 04:00 AM
I wouldn't call using a textured coating on the bottom of a PT car amature. When I used paint on my 64' vette I was always doing some touch up here and there and I got tired of it. I didn't do my chevelle in chip guard to hide anything or because I was lazy I wanted to do it once and never look under it again. To me it's more of a personal choice. I'll take a clean durable coating anyday over an overdone bottomside that you can't see anyway. I guess I'll leave the body color floors for the guys with mirrors at taco bell.

JoshStratton
07-13-2005, 04:29 AM
nevermind.

Travis B
07-13-2005, 05:37 AM
Mike.

The semi gloss black is the hardest to clean and least durable. A gloss paint either single or base clear looks the best and is pretty tough stuff. It's also the hardest to do. Thats why you don't see a lot of guys doing it. The floors have to be perfect. The body shultz or chip guard is definatly the toughest stuff. BUT it looks like crap and very amature. You won't see competative ISCA cars or any really nice show cars with that finish undernieth. Body shultz is also great to cover up rough bodywork.That's another reason many guys use it. I always opt for a straight perferct clean shiny floor. I've driven my show cars thousands of miles with no problems. Remember my NMCA 7 second Purple Pro street 59 Corvette? It has over 700 1/4 mile runs with most in the sevens and thousands of street miles on it. All that with a three stage candy ISCA championship winning paint job top and Bottom!! The only thing I ever had to do was repaint the rear tubs from the abuse of all those 300 foot burnouts.
Good luck with your project!
Brent Jarvis


So I geuss Troy at rad rides is an amature and the street machine of the year 2003 (The Chicayne) isn't a worthy show car or PT car!
Dam I better rethink things I guess :spank2:

68protouring454
07-13-2005, 05:40 AM
does the body shultz hold on to the color good?? i have used some evercoat paintable undercoat and the base/clear did not hold, but i have used chip gaurd and thats what i have found to be best here in maine, i use Upol gravitex and it workes killer, can vary texture by pressure and it holds onto the paint unreal thru winters etc on trucks, probaly what i will use on my car, check it out

jake

ProdigyCustoms
07-13-2005, 06:32 AM
I personaly like a slick bottom also if I can do it, or if the customer can afford it. It is very difficult to get a floor and chassis ready for gloss anything. Also though, for a true driver, there are some real advantages to a body Shutlz bottom like vibration control and sound deadening, and also a cover up for less then perfect floors.

Done properly though, and painted body color does look damn nice. The worth stuff is not like undercoat, or Chip guard, it really is like a Heavy Orange peel with no sharp edges like undercoat. And even though it is pretty thick, it does not look thinck like a spray liner.

As far as color holding, You would need a sharp screw driver to scratch any color off that 62, but it is critical to catch it within the time window and do it non snading. I need to read again, but I am pretty sure it is 12 hours. I think I did it in 8 hours.

lastly, that $60 gun is not the same one I use, Mine is a prossure pot type and very adjutable. I am not so sure you will be able to tune that $60 gun for the same results. be carefull.

Here is what I use

projectPONY
07-13-2005, 07:54 AM
I ran across this site a while back. www.coolcarceramic.com
I remember reading about it in a restoration magazine, and if I'm remember correctly it can be painted. it's not going to give you a smooth look. it does accomplish its purpose though. another product I remember hearing about is LizardSkin. I don't have the website for that one but I'm sure it can be googled.

paul67
07-28-2005, 01:38 PM
I know this might be silly but what about powder coating if its good for sub frames and suspension and it can be colour matched.
paul67

RobM
08-09-2005, 10:42 PM
i dont know if you could bake a whole car hot enough for powder coating. i think it would get hot enough to catch body filler on fire and sweet lead out of seams

Damn True
07-20-2006, 07:03 AM
The sick fish and all of troys cars have what is called speed liner that is also tintable!

How resistant is that stuff to heat? Will it hold up near exhaust?

Martin71RS
07-20-2006, 07:54 AM
my lower front valence was done with body schutz (by 3M) since mine is a driver (the painter suggested it)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2006/07/nomotor01-1.jpg

Martin

awr68
07-20-2006, 10:13 PM
Mike.

The semi gloss black is the hardest to clean and least durable.

That is 100% opposite of what Stielow said in the Mule's paint article, and the actual reason he uses that finish on his builds...he seems to think it gives you a nice finish and easy maintenance.

I was planning on using the same black Mark used on The Mule, for my car's underside, roll rar, dash face, engine bay, and frame...not a good choice??

68fusion
07-21-2006, 06:32 PM
The worth stuff is not like undercoat, or Chip guard, it really is like a Heavy Orange peel with no sharp edges like undercoat. And even though it is pretty thick, it does not look thinck like a spray liner.




We just used this on a camaro we finished. It is easy to apply, not that expensive and is easily cleaned. The only pain was tracking down our Wurth guy to sell it to us.

Damn True
07-22-2006, 05:02 AM
Is "Wurth" the company that pulled their sponsorship of Vinokurovs team just prior to the TdF because 4 of its members were implicated in Operacion Puerto?