Introducing project Track Bird, 79 firebird

[thunderzy]

Hello all. My name is Zack. Long time lurker. first time project. I've owned the 79 firebird for 5 years now. The last 2 years it sat and did nothing. It hasn't been started since March of 2010. Car has a 430 olds, 350 trans, 2.5 inch dual flowmaster super 44, msd, fuel pump upgrade and shift kit. All installed by previous owner. Originally I was going to build a sweet street pro-touring street machine. But now I'm itching to get on the track. I want to try to keep a tight budget. Stripped down purpose built functional look.

So the new plan is; in this order (sort off)
1)get her started, install Pro-Touring F-Body competition suspension kit. Sent her into the shop yesterday for that.

2)Strip the interior, install race seats, harness and eventually roll cage. Please recommend a fixed back seat that wont break the bank and will last 2-3 yrs. I have a 38" waist, 48" jacket, and im 5'9".

3)Upgrade brakes; 1le upgrade or aftermarket. Really don't know which way to go with this.

4)Chassis stiffening; Pro-Touring F-body G braces, sway bar brace, frame connectors, and solid body bushings. This is when I will have a roll cage welded in.

5)LS/T56 swap. Make all upgrades necessary to this build: cooling, rearend, etc.

6)Body work, pure race look.

47733

[srh3trinity]

For brakes, you should consider C5/C6 Corvette brakes with equipment from Kore1 if you are trying to stay within a reasonable budget. I like the idea of the Corvette brakes, because pads are available at most auto parts stores and my set was pretty cheap after a lot of scouring.

[thunderzy]

Thanks Stephen. great suggestion. Quick search brings up this thread on nastyz28

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74546

Seems like a relatively simple swap and very reasonable. Good call.

[LeighP]

If cost is a concern, I've done the 1LE mod using SSBC drilled and slotted rotors and Wilwood GMIII calipers on my project....pretty cheap, but theres a few mods needed along the way.
I'm not going with the cage, but I am using all the other PTFB chassis parts.

Something to think about....keep the main hoop of the roll cage far enough back so that your head cannot come into contact in a street accident.....hitting a cage with your bare head is NOT good...

[NOT A TA]

Looks like a nice project! If you haven't been on track, I'll recommend you get out on a track for an HPDE asap even if you use a rental car. There's no reason you have to wait till your car is "ready" and you'll get a taste of track days. What you learn might influence your build.

If you're building it primarily as a track car you might want to talk to people who frequent the tracks about whats necessary/desireable for track cars that's different from PT type cars. Track cars are usually simple/functional without added stuff that can possibly sideline you if it breaks. As an example: If you don't have a power steering fluid cooler then it can't leak. So if you don't need a cooler then don't run one. The tracks you'll use the car on may dictate the type of parts you choose. Short tracks and long tracks place different challenges for the car and driver. Once you start taking the car to the track it will tell you what it needs. And as you progress as a driver you may want/need to make changes/additions to the car.

Since you have a running driveable car and you're on a budget, why not just use the current combo (With minor mods) to save time and get you out on track without dumping a bunch of money on a drivetrain and increasing the potentials that could sideline you. My first track day in my bird I had a 350 2 barrel T-350 combo and to get out on track and have fun/learn it was fine. You don't need a thousand horsepower, 19" brakes, etc. to go out and have fun. While the general concensus of the PT crowd is LS is best, track cars should be as simple as possible IN MY OPINION. You go to the track to drive not chase gremlins that could arrive unexpectedly. While the LS has advantages for overall use in PT type cars, the necessary fuel systems, computers, additional wiring, sensors etc. all provide places for failures that could sideline you. A simple driveline will keep you on track and unless you already have track experience the car will be better than you are as a driver for a while.

Here's a thread I wrote while doing the safety equipment upgrades on my bird that might give you ideas or answer questions. https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?48151-The-14-Car-safety-thread-Roll-Cage-Kirkey-seats-Fire-systems&highlight=the+14+car

Good luck with the build!

[thunderzy]

Thanks for the replies. Leighp, not a ta I'm familiar with both your cars as ive read a ton about them on transamcountry.com. I created a thread once on race interiors and the both of your were instrumental on guiding me in the right direction. I tracked my sport bike for 4 years so I know a bit about track day events. Furthermore I know about safety which is what I'm trying to accomplish here. Those things on my list are not meant to happen right away. It's a build as I go project. The better I get the more upgrades I make. I carried this philosophy with my sport bike and it served me well. I've instructed the shop to give the car a thorough look through. Make note of the important safety issues. Also asked them advise me on simple brake up grades for the stock set up. New pads or new rotors or both. My interior is definitely not safe. The drivers seat has 2 out of 4 bolts in the bracket holding it to the floor. The seat belts do not retract providing no resistance at all. Door panels are loose, shifter knob is slipping off, carpet is bunching up. That's why I'm searching for some safety upgrades for the interior before I got on track. Piece of mind mostly.

Thanks for your help and advice. Im looking forward to learning much more from you. Please keep em coming.

[tazzz25906112]

Congrats on your plan it's cool to see a later second gen Formula build,,,, all to few of them and a great car I think...