hardline to flex line fittings

[rb70383]

Getting ready to plumb my fuel system and have a couple questions. I am going to run hardline as much as possible. Currently thinking steel but looking towards al after some searching on here. What is the perferred way to connect flex lines to the hardline? I have seen the compression style fittings, tube sleeves, and swedge lock style. Which ones need flares, which dont and which can be used with steel lines, if I decide to go that way?

47716

47718 47719

47717
I cant find the swedge lock style. The info I find on the tube nuts is for use with aluminum line only. I am running an inline Walbro as well. I need to figure out a good way to attach my rubber lines to the hardline. :hmm:

Also I only have a 45^ flare tool as well. How good are the non flared connections? No chance of a tube pulling out of the fitting?

[parsonsj]

I've never had a leak* using my Imperial AN flaring tool and tube nuts and sleeves. It's a simple and effective way to go. You can pick up the flaring tool here:

http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=46/category_id=70/home_id=70/mode=prod/prd46.htm

*I had a stainless power steering hard line seep some. I fixed that by using some valve lapping compound and a steel male fitting to "dress" up the flare. The actual dressing time was only a few minutes, and the seep was fixed.

[CarlC]

You can also use a AN bulkhead fitting mounted on a bracket. The tube is flared and a standard hose end is used. This gives a very secure mounting point and relieves the compression ferrule of any strain.

Catalog page 53 http://www.youblisher.com/p/3647-Eaton-Aeroquip-Racing-High-Performance-Catalog/

[rb70383]

Any way to do it without having to buy a 37^ flaring tool? Starting to think not so. I was going to use adel clamps but like the bulkhead fitting for strain relief. With some more searhging I am going to use the 5051-0? AL line from an aircraft supply site listed here. Cant remember off hand.

[CarlC]

Buying a good flaring tool will be one of your best long-term investments.

[rb70383]

John, can that flaring tool do stainless as well? Must be annealed though right? Do they have shipping charges?

[CarlC]

That's an Imperial tool. I have the same one but with a different handle. It works fine on stainless as long as the threads and the forming section of the cone are lubricated with moly grease. Greasing these areas is a good practice regardless of the material used.

[ErikLS2]

i just bought this one http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/458R-Ratchet-Flaring-Tool/index.htm at my local Home Depot (had to order it). It's a little more meaty than the Pure Choice one and I've only used it on
aluminum so far but it works great!

[parsonsj]

It works fine on stainless as long as the threads and the forming section of the cone are lubricated with moly grease. Greasing these areas is a good practice regardless of the material used.Exactly. I've make 5/8 (10 AN) flares on annealed stainless with this tool.

[rb70383]

Thanks. Looks like I will need a 37^ flare tool regardless. Lots of projects planned that would benefit from it.
While thinking it through, came to another point of concern for me. I am running the line from the frame to the body then to the engine. Can I run it to the body without a flexible joint? The body is mounted on bushings, not sure how much they actually flex. I am thinking I will need another flex area.

[parsonsj]

I am running the line from the frame to the body then to the engine. Can I run it to the body without a flexible joint?It's not a bad idea, I'd say, but probably not necessary. Just make sure that you don't clamp it tight right at the transition from frame to body so the tube has some minor freedom of movement.

[CarlC]

From a safety standpoint having a flexible connection is a good idea. In case of an accident/impact where the tank may shift having some flexibilty may keep something from ripping out. It also makes R&R of the tank a lot easier. I don't want to know how many times I've R&R the tank in mine in the past 18 months.

[parsonsj]

From a safety standpoint having a flexible connection is a good idea. In case of an accident/impact where the tank may shift having some flexibilty may keep something from ripping out. It also makes R&R of the tank a lot easier. I don't want to know how many times I've R&R the tank in mine in the past 18 months.Good point. A flexible connection from the tank to the frame hard line is something I'll be doing in Unfair, for sure!

[ErikLS2]

I'm just thinking out loud here but I'm in the process of bending up my fuel hard lines from 5052-0 0.35 tubing. It's pretty darn flexible and this thread got me thinking how much flex it would take before rupturing. I too am running a flex hose between the car and engine/fuel tank but at the cost of four fittings and Teflon hose I wonder........

[rb70383]

I am going to use the 5052-0 tubing as well. Current plan is to use rubber line tank to frame. Then a bulkhead head fitting to relieve strain and transistion to the hard line. 2 more fittings to splice in the pump and filter, and now debating on another bulkhead fitting to goto the firewall then to the engine with a hose, or loosely clamp the line on the firewall and just use a hose to goto the engine.

If I mount it solidly to the firewall then I would need to add a flex from frame to body and body to engine. Not a big deal, except the fittings add up quickly.

How much flex there is and how much it can take before rupturing is what got me thinking as well. Cant find a way I like to bypass the firewall. Engine is a rear feed rail on the drivers side.

[rb70383]

Update, got the ridgid flaring tool. Wow so much nicer. My pratice vehicle is my ramcharger. Been using JIC connections. Same 37^ as -an. Also the local parker store has some fittings that you cant find in AN style or at least not on my budget. One fitting was -8an orb to 6an 90^. So I suggest looking for a parker store if you have one near by. Also using their blue pushlok hose. Good for 400psi iirc.

Also got the aluminum line from airpartsinc. The 5051? IIRC I like that line as well. Got some vinyl coated clamps as well. My first plumbing was on a 70 newport carb'd with the summit aluminum line and knowing I was plumbing EFI pressures, the thoughts of using that summit line had me :scared:

[zombiekiller]

Update, got the ridgid flaring tool. Wow so much nicer. My pratice vehicle is my ramcharger. Been using JIC connections. Same 37^ as -an. Also the local parker store has some fittings that you cant find in AN style or at least not on my budget. One fitting was -8an orb to 6an 90^. So I suggest looking for a parker store if you have one near by. Also using their blue pushlok hose. Good for 400psi iirc.

Also got the aluminum line from airpartsinc. The 5051? IIRC I like that line as well. Got some vinyl coated clamps as well. My first plumbing was on a 70 newport carb'd with the summit aluminum line and knowing I was plumbing EFI pressures, the thoughts of using that summit line had me :scared:

The summit 1/2" aluminum hard line is pretty much identical to what russel sells for 3x the price. I just got done doing my fuel system a few months ago. I used the hardline down the frame rails and used stainless braided from tank to filter, hardline from filter to pump, braided from pump to hardline junction on frame, then braided from hardline junction to carb. I knew that i'd be going efi soon, so I opted to do it once and make it easy to just unscrew two fittings and replace the carb pump with an efi pump.

I like the russel compression fittings for the braided. The summit hard line was fine and i'll use it all day long for $18 per 25 ft instead of 60 + for the same 25 foot in a russel line. The summit brand actually was a a slightly thinner wall, but it is still plenty strong and I find no issue with it.

[Chevy Kid]

. I don't want to know how many times I've R&R the tank in mine in the past 18 months.


Yeah, but it was for a good cause!