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    Results 1 to 7 of 7
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Posts
      261

      Upgrading Wheel Studs

      If I decide to upgrade my 7/16" studs to 1/2", what size drill do I use to make the holes in the rotor?

      Anybody know which stud I need for 1 3/4" threads plus the shank for the disc rotor? 69Fbody GM.

      Robert



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      I reamed my rotors out on the drill press to where they just barely slip on over the studs.(don't know what size they eventually ended up being) It's probably tighter than it needs to be because you have to square the rotor up pretty true or it won't slide on.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Orlando, Fl
      Posts
      1,229
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by firebob View Post
      If I decide to upgrade my 7/16" studs to 1/2", what size drill do I use to make the holes in the rotor?

      Anybody know which stud I need for 1 3/4" threads plus the shank for the disc rotor? 69Fbody GM.

      Robert
      You doing press in studs I assume? What is the knurl diameter of the studs you plan to use? Generally you want a 0.005" press fit on the radius. So 0.010" undersize diameter on reaming size.

      You can also do thread in studs.
      Nick DiPrenda

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2009
      Location
      El Dorado Hills
      Posts
      1,645
      Country Flag: United States
      If you use the thread in studs be sure to use the high strenth loctite. I recommend going with knurled.

      Gaetano Cosentino
      Dont Drive Faster Than Your Angels Can Fly

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Location
      Hermosa Beach, CA
      Posts
      153
      Country Flag: United States
      Take it to a machine shop. Money well spent if you dont know what you are doing. Should be less than $100
      Pete

      1968 Camaro
      2009 Porsche 911 Carrera S

      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2543199

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Posts
      261
      I was able to find longer studs with the same size knurl in 1/2". So it took about 5 minutes to press out the old ones and press in the new. I bought a set of new lug nuts from ebay from LugNut King. When I put them on every one was drilled and threaded just a little bit crooked. So when they go on and off they don't spin true. Seconds I guess. They'll be fine but talk about quality control!!!!

      Robert

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      I just replaced the 7/16" studs in my Moser rear axles with 1/2" that I got from them. I asked them what bore diameter to use, and for the specific part number they told me .610". I had no issues. However, we did make a jig and bored them on a Bridgeport. Your other option may be to use your existing holes and tap them, then use screw in studs. According to Moser, I could simply have done that with no drilling/boring.
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...




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