FIRST TIME MUSTANG BUYER IN NEED OF YOUR EXPERT ADVICE! (1970 Mustang)

[FoxRooster]

Found a 1970 Mustang today that I really like. Been looking for 6 months in Los Angeles to find a vintage mustang. Learned a lot but still learning. Not a mechanic and need this to be a daily driver. Can't understand buying a new car if I can have a vintage Mustang! Here are the details of the car.

Need your feedback
THANK YOU!!
-Dana

I was originally planning on spending around $10,000 for a reliable car that's been restored a good bit. This car needs some work, but the foundation seems to be there. I drove it today. Starts up first crank. Great pick up. Power breaks do make a strange fan like noise that I would like to get fixed. any idea how much? Steering was pretty loose. Cost? I think I might be able to get it for @ $4,000. Worth it?!?! and make the upgrades/restore on my own?

details:
1970 mustang coupe v-8.
Motivated seller - girlfriend is making him
asking $4500 - reduced from $5500

Good
-strong 302 v-8 with fresh oil change
-brand new tires with less than 100 miles on them
-brand new stereo sytem with great rear speakers
-interior is complete with carpet and seats all complete (100 percent complete)
-heater works great with defroster

Bad
-no ac
-steerings a bit loose
-rear bumbper is bent and new one is 70 dollars on craigslist.
-paint is chipped here and there and is about 6/10
-car might need new linkage for the tranny, but works fine and will last
-right blinker doesn't work
-power breaks make fan like noise

I want this care to be reliable and would definitely be interested in hearing what kind of resto/mod advice and ideas you have to offer.

[Vicinity]

Buying an old car with the idea of making it a daily driver is a bad idea, just in my opinion. I did it, but decided to keep my DD. Once you resto-mod/Pro-Tour it, it may very well be a good DD, but old cars without the upgrades are just bad ideas.

-No A/C will suck, theres no way around that.
-Loose steering means the steering linkage is probably worn out (replace)
-Paint isn't necessarily an issue
-I don't really understand how the tranny "might" need new linkage? What's wrong with it?
-Turn indicator is probably a result of old wiring (at that age the wiring can pretty much fall apart, mine did)
-Brake booster leak

Just note, I may be wrong on some of those, I'm simply guessing.

EDIT: I just want it to be clear, I'm not being negative about this, I'm just trying to help :)

[FoxRooster]

Thanks Dan,
-A/C's not an issue being in CA.
-definitely a bit concerned about the break suction noise although I've heard it happens with some powerbreak installs. sound goes away when break pushed all the way down
-not sure either on the tranny linkage bit
-loose steering makes me a bit nervous for obvious reasons. How much is it to get something like that tightened up. Easy fix or tough?

[FoxRooster]

Also should mention that I work for myself and don't need to have this thing on the highway everyday. Can stay pretty local most the week and drive 30 miles max to a weekend destination.

[Vicinity]

Thanks Dan,
-A/C's not an issue being in CA.
-definitely a bit concerned about the break suction noise although I've heard it happens with some powerbreak installs. sound goes away when break pushed all the way down
-not sure either on the tranny linkage bit
-loose steering makes me a bit nervous for obvious reasons. How much is it to get something like that tightened up. Easy fix or tough?

The "loose" feeling on the steering can't really be fixed. It generally has to be replaced. The linkage is 40~ years old and metal being constantly rubbed and moved against each other will wear down the "teeth" on the arms (pitman arm, idler arm) and the arm may slip or cause a loose feeling. It could be something else entirely, though.

I've been doing a lot of reading on steering components lately (doing PS conversion), and from what I understand, a new pitman arm will essentially cure the problem. They come out to be between 50 and 80 dollars. You'll need to rent a puller tool to get it off. Can be swapped in well under an hour.

[ProjectSideOiler]

Found a 1970 Mustang today that I really like. Been looking for 6 months in Los Angeles to find a vintage mustang. Learned a lot but still learning. Not a mechanic and need this to be a daily driver. Can't understand buying a new car if I can have a vintage Mustang! Here are the details of the car.

Need your feedback
THANK YOU!!
-Dana

I was originally planning on spending around $10,000 for a reliable car that's been restored a good bit. This car needs some work, but the foundation seems to be there. I drove it today. Starts up first crank. Great pick up. Power breaks do make a strange fan like noise that I would like to get fixed. any idea how much? Steering was pretty loose. Cost? I think I might be able to get it for @ $4,000. Worth it?!?! and make the upgrades/restore on my own?

details:
1970 mustang coupe v-8.
Motivated seller - girlfriend is making him
asking $4500 - reduced from $5500

Good
-strong 302 v-8 with fresh oil change
-brand new tires with less than 100 miles on them
-brand new stereo sytem with great rear speakers
-interior is complete with carpet and seats all complete (100 percent complete)
-heater works great with defroster

Bad
-no ac
-steerings a bit loose
-rear bumbper is bent and new one is 70 dollars on craigslist.
-paint is chipped here and there and is about 6/10
-car might need new linkage for the tranny, but works fine and will last
-right blinker doesn't work
-power breaks make fan like noise

I want this care to be reliable and would definitely be interested in hearing what kind of resto/mod advice and ideas you have to offer.


Looks like nothing but a money pit to me. If you sink in another 10grand (which will not go far) it will still be a 3500.00 car. Without better photo's its hard to tell what its really like and even if its a California car. Has it ever been hit or had rust repair? Never knowwhats hidden under the crappy paint job.

I say stay away and keep looking. If you got the car for FREE you would never come out ahead. I have restored many 69/70 mustangs and THAT is not a good deal. I just sold a super nice 69 fastback for 5500.00.

This was my last one: another money pit with no return.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[DarkBuddha]

Looks like nothing but a money pit to me. If you sink in another 10grand (which will not go far) it will still be a 3500.00 car. Without better photo's its hard to tell what its really like and even if its a California car. Has it ever been hit or had rust repair? Never knowwhats hidden under the crappy paint job.

I say stay away and keep looking. If you got the car for FREE you would never come out ahead. I have restored many 69/70 mustangs and THAT is not a good deal. I just sold a super nice 69 fastback for 5500.00.

This was my last one: another money pit with no return.
Is this a serious reply? I can't think so if that is the actual '69 you let go for $5500. Hell, even it was completely just a makeup job, you'd have to be doing something seriously wrong to only get $5500 for that car. I've seen near total basket cases sell for $3k+, and I'm not talking about Boss or Mach 1 cars... just plain jane sportsroofs. And really, almost every restoration is a money pit... the phenomenon of making money on a resto is not nearly as common as losing money on 'em. Hell, I dare say most of the cars that cross the stage at BJ auctions are money losers, except for the rare exception and the particularly sought after and rare cars.

That said, and as much as I think that reply should be disregarded, he does make a couple good points. A coupe won't be worth what a sportsroof will be, and they'll cost about the same to fix/restore. Coupe buy-in prices are typically a third to half of a similar sportsroof, but the parts cost the same to buy and replace, as does the labor if you're paying for that as well. But, if you aren't worried about the market value of the car after you buy it, then a coupe is a heck of bargain for getting in the game. If I were in the position of having to replace my Mach, I'd probably buy a coupe to reap the benefits of the cheaper buy-in. Remember, you don't know what it looks like when you're driving it. ;)

As for the particular car you're looking at, I'd have to see and hear a lot more about it before making any sort of guesstimation on what it might be worth, but based on your current description, I think even $4k might be a touch high. The nicest of driver quality coupes is typically sub $10k, and based on what you described, the work and parts necessary to bring it up to that level would run several thousand (trust me, these damn things will nickel and dime you with the best of 'em).

The power brake sound is probably the booster leaking... figure a few hundred for a replacement and the hassle of doing the labor.

Is the steering power? In either case, the steering was never exactly what would be called "tight" by today's standards. You can update the car to a bolt-in rack&pinion setup for between $1000-$2000 which will tighten it up significantly and give better feel. If you just want a tighter more responsive feel, you can get a new Borgeson steering box (integral type if it's ps) for $600-$800.

Paint, body, and trim stuff costs can be as reasonable or as ridiculous as you want to spend. New repro bumpers are under $100, or OEM quality re-chromes can run $1000. Car looks okay in the pics, so I could probably live with the paint, but any decent paint job will be $1500 or more. If there's body work (or worse, hidden rust! EEEK!!!), then that can get real pricey real fast... in the thousands and thousands.

As for the tranny linkage, is it a manual or auto? If it's a manual, it may just need a new shifter or linkage setup... figure a couple hundred worst case scenario. If it's an auto, I'm not sure what to say... the linkage for an auto is pretty simple and idiot proof.

In any case, all the prices I mentioned are assuming you do the work yourself. You start paying someone else, and it will get prohibitively expensive quick, and you'd be better off buying a late model driver. Hell, a new V6 mustang is around $21k... and it's already got 305hp.


If you're seriously shopping for a '69 or '70, join here and get answers to all your questions from real owners: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/

[FoxRooster]

Thanks Dark,
Sportsroof definitely gets me out of my price range, but I hate the idea of dumping money into resto, if it's not gonna make the car more valuable.

I was told it's power steering and it felt like it to me, but I honestly have never driven non power steering. I would be able to tell right?

I think the Borgeson steering box route seems to be a good option.

Car is auto

Should I care if a Mustang is V8 or not? I'm definitely not into the cars to race them. I do like the power, and also heard it keeps a better value. But it's not necessary for me.

[FoxRooster]

PROS/INFO
Owner's had since '09
Been a DD
6 cycl
Automatic
Power locks
$1500 Paint Job
Rebuilt engine 4 months ago
Tranny rebuilt last year
Flo Master put on it
Alarm and radio
In shop now replacing breaks, drums, and the fuel sending unit


CONS
Interior is ok, but needs work
Some bondo work when painted
Hood needs to be realigned (not flush)
Scratch on passenger door (cost $150 or so)
Vin on door doesn't match the one under hood, but the hood vin matches the pink slip