aluminum two piston calipers...? 76 2nd gen/TA

[gtolou]

My 76 TA needs front brake help. I want to keep my 15x8 wheels and will use stock sized discs (I think 11" or so).

I just want it to stop well - no autocross or heavy use. Just want good stopping for those backroad occasional throttle blasts, etc.

Planning on new rotors/pads/rubber-banjo lines and probably at least new stock calipers. Car is originally a NE car and most of the stuff has some corrosion.

Will the 2-piston SSBC/Summit type aluminum calipers offer pretty good stopping improvement over the stock single piston units?

Thanks..

[critter]

Not really. The clamping force of your stock D52 caliper is is about the same. If you want real improvement in braking along with 15 inch wheels the 1LE upgrade is your best bet.

[Randy67]

The only other option is Wilwoods D52 twin piston calipers. Again like Critter said, the clamping force doesn't increase. You would be better off getting different, more aggresive brake pads, something like a Hawk HPS or equivalent.

[gtolou]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-140-11290-R/


Is this the kit?

Pretty decent deal. Summit does NOT say they "fit" a 76 TA per se, but it says that they'll fit a 68-96 GM w/ D52 single piston caliper car.

Should fit - yes??

Thanks for the help.

[Randy67]

Yes, that will fit your car.

[critter]

Do you want to look cool or stop better? These are not going to help the braking ability of your TA.

[gtolou]

Do you want to look cool or stop better? These are not going to help the braking ability of your TA.


Just want to stop better - don't really want to go to a bigger wheel/rotor combo. Like to keep my 15" wheels/snowflakes.

[critter]

Then step up to the 1LE rotor setup. The additional stopping power with the 12 inch rotor over your 11 inch rotor will be what you want and you can save the money on calipers. I did rear discs, tried dual piston calipers (Afco race) and saw no real change. Adding a larger rotor up front made a HUGE difference. The rest was wasted money.

I know you're asking all over the net on this. The answers have all been the same. Fancy calipers are like fancy cross drilled and slotted rotors. They look good but you won't stop any better.

[SLO_Z28]

The only other option is Wilwoods D52 twin piston calipers. Again like Critter said, the clamping force doesn't increase. You would be better off getting different, more aggresive brake pads, something like a Hawk HPS or equivalent.

Those arent the only option. I have Howe Racing dual piston calipers. You can get them in a bigger piston size than the wilwoods, they weigh less (very important), and they cost less.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
http://www.howeracing.com/p-7708-howe-double-piston.aspx

[gtolou]

I appreciate all the help - yeah Critter, I had posted on PY as well. Someone else mentioned the 1LE upgrade as you have. I don't know anything about brakes over stock - heard of upgrade for first time yesterday (lol.).

Here is a TAC thread you had linked:

http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=23740.0

Good info!

[critter]

Some notes on the Howe calipers. Yes you can run them. I did for a while and did a story about it for Pontiac Enthusiast magazine (now defunct, take that as you wish).

1 - You will have to modify the spindle by grinding out an area for the caliper to travel on the sliders.

2 - They are designed for a thicker rotor so you'll have to fabricate spacer plates. I used backing plates from old pads and ground off the friction material.

3 - These are designed for race use, not street, and do not have the rubber isolators for the pins. You will hear them rattle unless you can find somone to machine the grooves for the rubber isolators like you see in a D52.

4 - Pay attention to the piston volume/master cylinder relationship. When I did it I still had drum brakes on the rear and adding the biggest piston calipers worked. But when I added the WS6 style rear disc brakes I exceeded the volume capability of the MC and had a soft pedal like you wouldn't believe. I fought that one for months before doing the math and realizing my error.

[SLO_Z28]

1. You do have to radius it, it isn't that bad though.

2. There is an inexpensive outer half, or you can run the thicker pads like I already do.

3. My whole car rattles, I dont even hunt down noises anymore. My dash jumps an inch or so when I hit a good bump.

4. Ive done all the math and I will be fine.

If you look around you can get good deals on these too. I know that with stainless lines, new pads, and adaptors for a AN lines, both sides installed was less than $130 for me.