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View Full Version : Help me piece together a very budget single turbo kit for 68 camaro with LT1 please.



1Bad68camaro
05-02-2011, 01:07 PM
Hello guys, I am finally getting to put my 68 camaro together after sending it to the paint shop over 3 years ago before I deployed. Long story short he did a terrible job and it took me sueing him to get my car back, but still lost out on the $3500 I had already given him. So now my goal is to get her running and do a budget single turbo kit on it to make the power i'm wanting. The motor is currently still in the shipping crate but to be installed soon. Its a 97 LT1 with stock style rebuilt bottom end, mild ported heads/intake with good springs and pushrods and rockers, CC306 cam, 58mm twin throttle body, SLP mass air meter and currently have a set of dynomax coated headers but will probably be replaced with shorties or manifolds for the turbo kit. As it sits it should make about 350rwhp. I have tried doing research on some of this as I have time but there are so many options out there I would rather listen to the guys advice that actually do these builds and have success with em. I'm not looking for 1000hp or something crazy. I want to reliably put down 450rwhp on its current setup. Then be able to forge the bottom end later down the road and upgrade the turbo to much higher numbers. When suggesting headers, turbo and things like that keep in mind its a budget build. I'm just wanting to get her built and get some good driving in on it before I deploy again in jan 2013. I currently have the Ricks stainless conversion tank for EFI with the upgraded fuel pump that they claim to be good to 600hp. Thanks for any help/info/guidance. T.

CW2 Watkins
U.S.Army

1Bad68camaro
05-02-2011, 07:42 PM
Figured there would be lots of ideas on this site.

1Bad68camaro
05-03-2011, 07:58 AM
Just to clarify, I'm not asking for people to give me stuff for this build. Just info on what headers or manifolds work best for the price, turbo for the price, things like that. Dont want to sound like I have my hand out or something. T.

Nessumsar
05-03-2011, 09:15 AM
From the research I have done for building a turbo 5.3 ls I would recommend:

A single t70 turbo
Some simple "block hugger" shorty headers with merge pipes connecting in front of the engine
A simple 3" ebay intercooler
larger injectors
A meth or water injection kit for insurance.

Those items on a 5.3 ls will make 500-550whp.

What LSA and duration is that cam?

MonzaRacer
05-03-2011, 03:13 PM
OK my choice would be dump the cam for a HOT cam, its more turbo friendly. add in some 1.65 rockers to up the lift.
For a budget set up, some reversed headers tie into an HX40 Holset turbo, use a good 50mm wastegate, up your injectors to 55lb hour (if efi) from fiveomotorsports.com, (this is assuming you have the LT1 intake) ,swap in boost friendly MAP from and 87 GN turbo car for about $60, a decent blow off can be had in cheaper copies from Ebay.
Use a good wideband AF ration meter, keep it tuned in the 11 to 11.5 to 1 area while in the WOT area.
Good car to take ideas from is over on theturboforums.com, search for the Grenade.
Marty hurt hid "good " engine and swapped in a 150k 357 sbc with cast crank and pistons and it lived to push his un cut GTA Firebird to 9s in 1/4. The engine never got hurt he trashed his turbos , had issues with putting on a cracked head, swapping old used parts with no regard to any proper rules,,,ie he built it with trash can cam and lifters, old worn out engine, first iteration was with old 991 truck heads with 1.74 valves. TRUST ME that car really impresses and he did it with old used parts.
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=61219.0 here is the link.
His process is one I am gonna follow.
I have talked to several who have used the HX40 also H1C from one tons, heck I am even looking at some of the variable geometry units, WH1E like the 94 one ton dodge trucks.
I am looking into using 2, HX35W on my 302 Chevy for my Monza.
Lots of choices, also you might look at the ebay GT45 with the 1.05 AR , I have even compared specs and a pair of certain Ebay GT3582 turbos could get it done.
Heck I am looking at even using HX40 in a pair for my big block.
Lots of econo ideas if you plan right.

MonzaRacer
05-03-2011, 03:19 PM
Oh yeah dump the MAF not as useful on turbo, much easier using boost reference regulator, and aeromotive seems to be the good pump, Marty , the guy with the grenade idea was using older TPI with larger injectors and no MAF, actually he had the Commander 950 setup with TPI adapter harness, I would say most of that would work on the LT set up.
Or Megasquirt for cheaper unit.

opnwide
05-04-2011, 05:32 PM
Actually, the HOT cam would NOT be that hot for a turbo. (maybe a blower or nitrous, but not turbo). Turbo cams have wider lobe sep (114-115 deg) and similar intake and ex duration. Actually a little bit LESS ex may be helpful (not sure exactly why, something about pressures, but just take my word for it):)

1Bad68camaro
05-05-2011, 10:59 PM
Update, I called Ricks tanks and confirmed its a 255lph in tank fuel pump. I am trying to decide between a Master Power T70 or T76 turbo. Looking for which headers will put my 2.5 crossover where it wont effect any of my engine accessories (power steering/alternator). Hopefully a set that will hold up well to the stresses of turbo.

Nessumsar
05-06-2011, 08:04 AM
With your power goal of 450, I would stick with the T70; it will spool quicker, and still have room to make more power. XSPower makes what looks like a pretty nice set of headers for pretty cheap.

1Bad68camaro
05-06-2011, 09:37 AM
Will look into the xspower headers. Which of the two turbos do you think will be most efficient at 525-550hp at the flywheel? It's mainly going to be a street car with a rare trip to the track so I do like the idea of spooling quicker since it will be on a 6spd car with fairly short gears. My honest goal for this setup would be to run high 11's on a 3200lb race weight with good street tires. If i can get her to click off a 11.7 to match my previous cobra I will be more than happy with it. Is that reasonable? Suspension is heidts 4 link kit with billit adj coilovers, moroso front drag springs, Lakewood 90/10 front shocks, 315/35 17 bfg drag radials, moroso brute strength locker and 3.73 gears.

Nessumsar
05-06-2011, 10:02 AM
I am no drag racer, but 550hp should put you into the 10s; if you can stick and go, although the 6-speed will hamper things. I know that the T70 is good for around 600hp.

1Bad68camaro
05-06-2011, 10:14 AM
Do any of the Vendors on here give a good deal on th xsracing stuff? Looked at their website directly and they look perfect if they clear power steering.

Nessumsar
05-06-2011, 11:50 AM
I don't think anyone on here is an XS dealer.

MonzaRacer
05-06-2011, 01:33 PM
Actually, the HOT cam would NOT be that hot for a turbo. (maybe a blower or nitrous, but not turbo). Turbo cams have wider lobe sep (114-115 deg) and similar intake and ex duration. Actually a little bit LESS ex may be helpful (not sure exactly why, something about pressures, but just take my word for it):)

Ok so a 112 wont work but 114 will? just how do you get that, an d as for lift well it will make .492 w/1.5 rocker, .525 w/1.6 rocker and .541 with a 1.65 so tuning is easy.
As for not working, I have seen a 355 with LT4 HOT roller with an old set of 487X heads turn over 700 hp with a single turbo setup, I was going to say it was a TO4E but I just ask and it was one of the GT45 Y2000k Chinese ball bearing turbos. and same short block with AFR heads pulled down over 500(NA) so a hot cam not working is wrong. is it perfect, no, but it will work and do a pretty good job. it still makes good power and torque na .
And for a throw together set up on the cheap it beats $400 turbo cams as thats what I kept getting recommended.
I still havent worked on a cam for my long rod 302 twin turbo Chevy still trying to accumulate parts, heck mine is more low buck than most.
283 0.125 over, std forged 350 pistons with a a little turned off the top, 2.02/1.60 double humps then a moded LT1 intake, 55 lb hr injectors, Buick GN map, and still looking at cheap used Holset turbos or Chinese GT35r (Garret based fittment guide told me to use GT25s and I matched specs to Chinese GT35rs) and slap it in my Monza, heck it may just get a pair of cheap TO4E Chinese turbos, depends on cash.
Threm my caprice will have a near stock block 454 while I build my 402 back up and do twin turbos, thinking HE351VGT Holsets, heck may even use them on my 302.
Money is tight and I havent built anything for my self since my new 355 in my truck(with its LT4 Hot roller).

alfatwin
05-28-2011, 07:40 AM
Man I know what it's like on a budget, my opinion would be to go with the cam you have as long as it doesn't have too much duration,(you don't want too much duration as the turbos will push the air out, if the overlap is too much the fresh fuel/air will be pushed out into the exhaust (raw fuel in the headers = more heat), put some longer ratio rockers on it to get a little more lift out of it. you can get a cheap set of ball bearing turbos on e-bay for cheap, need AT LEAST gt35's for a twin set up. (these are the cheapest around $400 a piece, sometimes you can get a better deal if you buy 2 at once)
One thing to think about is whether you want quicker spooling (street driving) or more exhaust flow capability (drag racing), this is done through the a/r ratio of the hotside/ turbine/ exhaust side of the turbo. The bigger the a/r number the later it will spool but the more it will flow at the top end, the trick is to get the right flow for your application.
Look up garret turbos website and go through the turbo 101 section, this will really give you a good sense of how it all works and give you a calculator to figure out what you need to do what you want. If you do it cheap this time, you can thrash on it sooner, and try some turbos out without breaking the bank, then, when you get back, you can have an idea what you need to make it better.
If you have a 6-speed manual, you will need to have external blowoff valve(s) to keep the turbos spinning while you shift. bigger injectors are always a good thing, they are cheap insurance against running out of fuel. do you have a computer/ injection/ ignition system yet?