View Full Version : No rotation from 4L60E
barno68
04-20-2011, 07:28 PM
Just when I think the car is just about done, another issue... I was warming up the engine testing for leaks and decided to put the car in get since I had the wheels off anyway. Shifted it in to reverse and drive with no change in the engine pitch or rpm.
Tonight I tried it again and experienced the same result with no rotation at the rear axle. I also checked the fluid level before starting the engine and again after- no change in level.
I am leaning toward a bad pump, but wanted to see if anyone had some suggestion on what else to check before having to pull the trany. The 4L60E, LT1 and computer are all from the same vehicle. Could there be any computer setting that would cause pump issues?
barno68
04-21-2011, 06:33 PM
I should add, I installed the transmission dry after cleaning out the pan and replacing the filter. It has around 60k miles on it and is about the only thing on the car that is not new or rebuilt.
Nessumsar
04-22-2011, 09:15 AM
I would check the basics; flexplate to convertor, driveshaft, parking brake, pan to filter clearance? I would also check to make sure that the cooler/lines aren't plugged. I would think that even if the pump was bad, or going bad, that it would still try to engage the bands in the trans a little.
6'9"Witha69
04-22-2011, 09:49 AM
How long was it running? Did you install the TC dry? Did you check for proper pump engagement by the TC?
barno68
04-22-2011, 11:28 AM
I would check the basics; flexplate to convertor, driveshaft, parking brake, pan to filter clearance? I would also check to make sure that the cooler/lines aren't plugged. I would think that even if the pump was bad, or going bad, that it would still try to engage the bands in the trans a little.
I have not taken the engine much above 2000RPM as it has not had proper break-in time yet. Convertor might be an issue and it is easy to check, but I would think it would be making a bit of a racket. I will check the pan after pulling one of the cooler lines and checking for flow. No parking brakes applied and drive shaft rotaties without issue in nuetral.
Any issues with installing the converter dry? I would think the pump would fill it up fairly quickly and my oil level is constant, however I cannot say how much oil I put in the trans after installing. The car has been ran a totally of maybe 45 minutes since I got the engine installed.
Thanks.
barno68
04-22-2011, 11:32 AM
How long was it running? Did you install the TC dry? Did you check for proper pump engagement by the TC?
I did not think the trans would be an issue, matter of fact I only checked its operation as an after thought. As above, the engine has ran at most 45 minutes, never longer than 10 minutes. I have had a bunch of issues getting this thing running and have just ironed them out. The last two times I had it running was to check for coolant leaks and to bring it to temp to burb the system.
The converter was installed dry and I did not check the pump engagement. However, the converter mated up without issue and the bellhousing bolted up. Not sure if that means anything.
barno68
04-23-2011, 10:57 AM
Fired it up today with the trans cooler lines disconnected and there was no fluid flow from the lines. There was residual fluid, so it did have some flow since installation, not sure if this helps in the diagnosis though. If I have time tomorrow I will pull the pan and check the filter clearance.
I am guessing that the TC holds about 5-6 qts, how long should it take to fill via the pump if installed dry? This is the first time I have had an issue like this so am open to suggestions.
barno68
04-23-2011, 11:22 AM
In doing some reading I may not have seated the TC fully and sheared off the pump engagement ears. Whatever the issue, looks like I am pulling the trans.
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