#*$*#@@# Brake lines keep slipping out of my flaring clamp!

[yody]

So i am trying to do some double flares on regular brake lines. I cut the brake line smooth it flat and then chamfer the outside and inside, I then put it in the clamp and use the black piece to guage the height, then i put the black piece with the nipple going into the inside of the line. THen i put the assembly in a vice and tighten the hell out of it, then i put the flaring tool onto the clamp and tighten the living day lights out of it. then i proceed to do the first step of flaring, but the damn brake line keeps slipping out of the clamp!! I have a ridgid 345 tool which some people like. I have super tighten both my work vise and the flaring clamp and it still slips out. what is going on here??

[sinned]

Regular regular or regular stainless?

[BRIAN]

I think that is the one I have? Does the top part of the tool actually clamp the tube holder from the side or does it only slide over it and push down creating flare. If it is the later go to Home Depot and get the other. Also lube that little die and DO NOT tighten down or it will get stuck in the tube and can break off. Hyd unit is way to go.

[68protouring454]

sometimes the grooves in the clamp that holds the line fill up with metal from the brake lines, try using a pick or wire brush to clean them out some, it should work
jake

[yody]

it was brand new, clamps from the side, screw down to flare from the top. Grooves are clean. Flaring regular old brake line, zinc coated.

[MrQuick]

You just suck, give up and go to Midas....LOL

[Norwoodx55]

Dude, I had the same problems. Flag down the Snap On truck, give him 40 bucks, and be done with it.
Brett

[TitoJones]

Yody-
I was having the same issue with my Snap-On double flare tool trying to get a good flare on stainless line.
I ended up doing the following:
Put the cut, filed and chamfered line into the clamp, measure the shoulder height for the flare, and then tighten the clamp closest to the line first, then the clamp further away from the line. Then take a screw driver and go 2-3 turns past where you can hand tighten the wing nut clamps (the brake line I used was stainless, don't do this with standard steel, or you will crush it). Take a black marker and mark the under side of the line to check to see if it is slipping as you do the first flare.
After I used the screw driver to get leverage on those wing nuts, it was smooth sailing, and I had perfect double flares with no slipping.
Tyler

[yody]

mine has T handle on the clamp, both on the side and the top. I did put it in the vise first, maybe i was overtightening it? i will try again tomorrow. that was good advise thansk

[Steve68]

I have the Snap On tool also, do what Tyler sez thats how I do it,

[chevymike]

I have found with steel lines, I tighten the clamp furthest away from the line, the tighten the one closest. Since doing this, I have not had any slippage like I had before. I have done close to 30 flairs this way and it was with a NAPA brand flairing tool. Don't for get to lube the die or it's a PITA to get out. I have not done stainless steel so no help if you are doing that. Good luck.

[gmachinz]

I had those issues when using a cheapie brand $15 parts store one. I needed to start doing iso flares so I got a kit off the Mat-Co truck and I've been happy ever since. I do brake conversions using late model prop. valves so an iso/double-flare tool was essential! -Jabin

[yody]

Turns out i had a bad tool. i exchanged it for a new one at home-poo-poo and it works great! no slipping!!

[73z-6sp]

What is the best tool for this job and where do I get it?

Sanp-on or Matco or?

Thanks,
Aaron

[CarlC]

It's best not to tighten the flaring clamp while it is in the vice. Tighten the clamp first, that way full force is used to clamp the tube.

The best tool is the hydraulic flaring type. Spendy, but very nice. Several companies offer them.

After dealing with SAE and double flares, I'll stick with AN and 37* single flare stainless. Much easier size-wise and it's all interchangeable.

[427v8]

snip---

After dealing with SAE and double flares, I'll stick with AN and 37* single flare stainless. Much easier size-wise and it's all interchangeable.

My thoughts exactly. Easy to make don't leak and reuseable too!
With steel tube nuts they are bullet proof.

[bonesfab]

imperial eastman makes them for snap on and mac. the best money you can spend for less headache. pulled the threads from one of the rigid brand like homo depot sells.

[Blown353]

imperial eastman makes them for snap on and mac. the best money you can spend for less headache. pulled the threads from one of the rigid brand like homo depot sells.

Sad really, because old-school Rigid (i.e. before they were a Home Depot "house brand") was some really nice stuff. I'm using a 25 year old Rigid Flaring tool, and that sucker is a TANK!

Maybe they have two product lines... one sold at H-D, and one to "professionals."

[chicane67]

.....get a REAL TOOL. Ya tool........

[yody]

Turns out i had a bad tool. i exchanged it for a new one at home-poo-poo and it works great! no slipping!!

how many of you ding-dongs didn't read this? the tool works great now!

[chicane67]

your still a tool....