Garage Floor Coatings

[1red68]

whats been your experience with garage floor coating?
my local yard has Epoxy Shield "Professional Coating Kit" on sale for $85.00. it says it covers 400 sq feet. I'm just getting the wiring done in my new work shop and thought it would be a good time to coat the floor before i insulate and sheet the inside. its 24 x 30 = 720 sq ft. i don't want to spend a lot of money on the floor coating. i know my sleds (snowmobiles) studs and skags will peal it off in front of the big door. so I'm looking for the best bang for the dollar. any suggestions??

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/homeshop005-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/homeshop002-1.jpg

[jy211]

I just had my floor done with Rhino Liner. I have yet to spill anything toxic on it, but so far have been happy.

[oestek]

Nice shop! Keep us posted on whatever you go with. Thanks!

[Boyd]

Here's a link to the flooring section on a forum called GarageJournal. You will learn more than you ever wanted to know about epoxy floors.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=20

**WARNING** - the site is extremely addictive. I've now found myself working ON my garage when I'm not working IN it.

[1red68]

Here's a link to the flooring section on a forum called GarageJournal. You will learn more than you ever wanted to know about epoxy floors.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=20

**WARNING** - the site is extremely addictive. I've now found myself working ON my garage when I'm not working IN it.

WOW! nice site! thank you. I will be there for a while.

Thanks for the nice words. I'll try to keep you posted on the shop, but it's been a slow raod as i'm only doing what i can as the money shows up. but it is headed in the right direction.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Interesting subject. We are coating a large area of the new shop where we will showroom finish cars and do final assembly after paint of projects.

Long story short, I found a floor coating product we like that is something I am looking at carrying in the ProTouringSuperStore. The product is made local and the company has been making floor coatings for 15 years. I have known the owner for many of those years and take care of his collection.

In fast math cost for the goos stuff looks like it will run between $1 and $175 per Sq ft depending on how fancy you get with two tones, chips, etc.

I sent my friend a link, he is going to join and say hello, probably can answer a lot of questions while I come up to speed.

[Tony_SS]

I used the Rustoleum Kit and it never chipped once in 3 years. I plan on using it again.

[BonzoHansen]

The u-coat-it in my garage is taking a beating well.

[Daren]

Moisture problems lead to peeling of the coating in my father's home shop after 5 or so years. I'd recommend doing a moisture test on the concrete before purchasing a floor coating product.

[Tony_SS]

Moisture problems lead to peeling of the coating in my father's home shop after 5 or so years. I'd recommend doing a moisture test on the concrete before purchasing a floor coating product.

I waited at least 6-9 months for the concrete to cure before putting anything on it. Then ran a dehumidifier full blast for 3 days straight and apply the stuff in the summer. Plus its all in the prep too. Nothing will stick w/o proper prep. I think a moisture test is good idea beforehand though.

[DarkBuddha]

I have the Rustoleum stuff in my garage and I'm a little disappointed. It's only been a couple years, but I think I'll have to refinish it in another year or so, though I'm not sure I can complain. It's been great with spills, dropping stuff on it, jack stands, and having steel wheel'd tool boxes and jacks rolled across it, etc.. The problems I've had have to do with parking on it, where the finish lifts under the tires, especially on particularly hot days. My guess is that it doesn't handle heat particularly well. Don't know what I can do about that.

[CamaroAJ]

I just had my floor done with Rhino Liner. I have yet to spill anything toxic on it, but so far have been happy.

thats awesome. i own a rhino liner floor company. its by far the most awesome stuff i have ever worked with.

just to throw this out there about 60% of the floors i do i have to grind off the stuff you get from lowes or home depot.

this is a one year old coating
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

and this one is two years old
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

if you are going to use the cheep stuff spend the extra time on the floor prep or it will peel right up, floor prep is key to making anything last on it. if you do anything with water to clean the floor it needs to dry for 2 days or it will be too wet for the coatings to stick even if it looks dry.

[1red68]

Thanks for the info guys... i never realized there were so many options out there. i do a fair amount of painting so my floor gets over spray and spilled lacquer thiner and reducer on it so i need some thing tough that won't lift..... I've got some homework to do...1 thing i have seen on every brand i have looked at today is the prep-work is the most important step.

Frank, I'm interested in hearing more about the coating you are looking at....

[DarkBuddha]

and this one is two years old
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Exactly. :(

[1981silverz28]

Check with a Line-X dealer .Go to Line-X.com and look at residential applications .They have some VERY nice stuff out now . If your going to seal your garage floor you might as well do it right the first time and save you money in the long run .

[Cdog]

I did the u cote it and it looked good until I started working on my Camaro. Hot welding slag and sparks burn right through it. Brake fluid will penetrate it and make it peel. I had a brake booster leak in my truck and the fluid got on the tire. Now I have tire peel marks on the garage floor.

If I were to do it over I'd acid etch the floor and clear cote it.

[Tony_SS]

I dont understand... I used the 'cheap' Rustoleum kit from Lowes. I spent a day on prep and a day on application and it didn't peel or chip, not even the slightest, in 3 years. So I don't think you can really blame the product - its all about the prep, surface and conditions in which you apply it.

[Cdog]

I dont understand... I used the 'cheap' Rustoleum kit from Lowes. I spent a day on prep and a day on application and it didn't peel or chip, not even the slightest, in 3 years. So I don't think you can really blame the product - its all about the prep, surface and conditions in which you apply it.

Really depends on how you use your garage. If it's a place to park your car. Then you should be fine as long as you keep brake fluid off of it. If you fab and weld in your garage I would not epoxy it.

[Tony_SS]

Really depends on how you use your garage. If it's a place to park your car. Then you should be fine as long as you keep brake fluid off of it. If you fab and weld in your garage I would not epoxy it.

Never had any chips with tons of jackstand and floor jack usage and parking summer sticky hot tires on it either, and its a very humid climate. I think its operator error when it comes to laying down these coatings. I could be wrong though..?

[BonzoHansen]

Never had any chips with tons of jackstand and floor jack usage and parking summer sticky hot tires on it either, and its a very humid climate. I think its operator error when it comes to laying down these coatings. I could be wrong though..?

that and product used.

[Blown73]

As stated above, the key to a good finish product is in the prep. If you have a new slab, you want to make sure the moisture content is low, hopefully you have a vapor barrier under the slab to keep water intrusion down. Most manufacturers require 3.5% moisture content prior to placing the coating. This is nearly unachieveable in any slab. You can combat it by heating the area with space heaters for 24 to 72 hours prior to placing the finish down, and we have had good luck doing that thus far, but it can be fairly expensive to do so. We had this issue on a project recently and we heated a 3000 sf area with 26' ceilings to 140 degrees for 72 hours. at the end of it, we had 3.2% moisture content.

Also, brake clean, brake fluid, paint thinner, etc, all will eat through most coatings. There is a special class that is impervious to these, but that is also spendy. If you don't want to spend the money, just be careful with the floor. I have a product i got at home depot 2 years ago that I put on a 30 year old slab, and thus far it is still looking pretty good. But it does not like brake clean, jack stands, or welding slag.

[Cdog]

Never had any chips with tons of jackstand and floor jack usage and parking summer sticky hot tires on it either, and its a very humid climate. I think its operator error when it comes to laying down these coatings. I could be wrong though..?

Welding slag and brake fluid eats through it. Jack stands don't chip it.

[CamaroAJ]

the rhino linings coatings will hold up to anything other than acids, they are a polyurea coating. rustolium had a new polyurea coating system but i cannot say how well it works. but polyurea coatings are worth the extra money. also there isn't a coating out that will stand up to welding slag.

[TheJDMan]

1red68,
Tell me about your tractor. Looks like a 200 series Deere minus a grill.

[1red68]

I never thought of asking the floor coating to stand up to everything. brake fluid and some solvent, both in limited amounts. but never welding and the ware and tear of normal shop work. i was mostly interested in easier clean up and to help make the area brighter.
i do wonder how hard it is to repair a bad/worn/brunt spot? do you end up with feather edges and lifting problems???



1red68,
Tell me about your tractor. Looks like a 200 series Deere minus a grill.

I read that and I'm thinking I haven't posted any pics of my tractor's. you made me go back and look. then I went ahhhh!!!! the old mower... :)
It is a JD 212, 12 hp Kohler, 42" deck w/ the snowblower & wheel weights. i think its a 1982 unit. i got it used in 1995-97 ish. it's been a good mower, never has needed anything other then belts and pulleys. actually the grille is in it, its just faded and the chrome deere is gone.

[indyjps]

MOISTURE NOT FROM CURING - If you didnt use plastic (Visqueen) under your concrete, or you dont know the history, get the floor checked for moisture. I f you have wet ground in your area the concrete moisture will vary with season and will effect your coating.

I have a catalyzed epoxy coating on my floor, the stuff is no longer sold due to its environmental effects(zylene based). brake fluid / welding / winter beat the coating up. I bought all the coating on sale when they were discontinuing the line and I got it for $3 / gallon - bought all they had. I dont mind touching it up since I dont have much in it. If youre picky, spend the $ on the best products and do the prep correctly.

If you want real cheap, just use Store brand concrete water sealer with a tint added, youll get what you pay for. several coats of this will "resist" oil soaking in. wont be anything like a true garage floor coating. depends on your goals. Im doing my new shop 44 x 30 with the concrete sealer. one section will be epoxy where I do majority of my car work.

Garage Journal is a great place and you'll find as much info there as you want.


Moisture problems lead to peeling of the coating in my father's home shop after 5 or so years. I'd recommend doing a moisture test on the concrete before purchasing a floor coating product.

[DarkBuddha]

You know, I read that folks have no problem with the Rustoleum (or whatever other budget brand), and yet there are clearly a lot of others that do. Folks tend to blame prep, as though the folks that have problems created their own problems. Given that I've personally had and witnessed several others with problems with the Rustoleum product and I know the prep work was solid (including knowing one guy that was extra anal about it when he did his brand new garage), I wonder if the issue might be something else. For example, could it be that the product doesn't fair as well in hot, humid climates or very sunny climates? Or could there be chemicals in the water used to wash and rinse the floor during prep that contributed, like excess calcium or iron or sulphur?

Look, I'm confident in the prep that I've seen on several of these and in the integrity of the folks that claim they did good prep and the product still "failed" prematurely. So, my questions become what is causing the problem, what changes can be made to ensure success in the future, what advice can we then give to help others, and what alternatives do we have if the product isn't viable for whatever reason(s).

[Tony_SS]

You know, I read that folks have no problem with the Rustoleum (or whatever other budget brand), and yet there are clearly a lot of others that do. Folks tend to blame prep, as though the folks that have problems created their own problems. Given that I've personally had and witnessed several others with problems with the Rustoleum product and I know the prep work was solid (including knowing one guy that was extra anal about it when he did his brand new garage), I wonder if the issue might be something else. For example, could it be that the product doesn't fair as well in hot, humid climates or very sunny climates? Or could there be chemicals in the water used to wash and rinse the floor during prep that contributed, like excess calcium or iron or sulphur?

Look, I'm confident in the prep that I've seen on several of these and in the integrity of the folks that claim they did good prep and the product still "failed" prematurely. So, my questions become what is causing the problem, what changes can be made to ensure success in the future, what advice can we then give to help others, and what alternatives do we have if the product isn't viable for whatever reason(s).

There certainly are a lot of variable that could cause failure.... It would be hard to single one out.

I want to know about failure rates on the high dollar systems like Ucoat it or others though...

[JMarsa]

Here's what I plan to do:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/Img0007-1.jpg

Thread here:

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=14047

--JMarsa

[Roadbuster]

Here's what I plan to do:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/05/Img0007-1.jpg

Thread here:

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=14047

--JMarsa

JMarsa has it for making the floor look great without coating with chemicals.

Otherwise for a coating to hold up to serious abuse you need to go industrial. I have seen stuff like this http://www.surfacesolutionsusa.com/ hold up really well to heavy loads. It is not a paint, but a very thick liquid epoxy that is applied up to half an inch thick.

I did the floor epoxy paint and it has held up well overall but it is pealing up from where the daily driver parks with hot tires. I did the whole prep to the letter as well. If I had it to do over again I would polish it.

[LeighP]

Polished concrete floors look great...make sure theres no fluids around...they're like skating on wet ice when you get a bit of water or oil spilled.

[Tony_SS]

Polished concrete floors look great...make sure theres no fluids around...they're like skating on wet ice when you get a bit of water or oil spilled.

Sounds like the acid etch fixed that problem though? I think I'm going to acid etch instead of epoxy my floors this time.

[BonzoHansen]

Polished concrete floors look great...make sure theres no fluids around...they're like skating on wet ice when you get a bit of water or oil spilled.

a little grit in the coating solves nearly all of that. from where I stand the benefit outweighs the cons.

BTW water with a little oil of gas in it is like icy ice lol



I want to know about failure rates on the high dollar systems like Ucoat it or others though...i didn't think my u-coat-it was 'high dollar' I have $450 in it plus maybe $100 prep stuff tops and 5 years later it is fine. never had a hot tire pickup, although my DD does not stay in the garage. but the camaro goes right in off trips. fluids wipe right up, I have some scratches and a chip here or there but nothing bad at all. That floor made my garage 100% nicer to be in. less dust, brighter, easier to clean. And I am comfortable thinking it upped the resale value of my house a bit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/07/th_IMG_3772Small-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v359/SIBLY/House/?action=view&current=IMG_3772Small.jpg)
I wish I had a good before pic, it was a typical greasy 20 year old floor. I scrubbed the crap out of it to clean it. and etched it with muriatic acid too. lots of scrubbing.

[Richard454]

My buddy -who owns a machine shop- has tried ALL the "it won't come up" and "it'll look good forever" coatings in moving his shop a couple times over the years.

The ticket-

He had the concrete sanded-started around 100 all the way up to 3000. Then it was stained a charcoal color and then sealed. Once a year you are suppose to re-seal and polish. Only con was it makes a LOT of dust- even w/ the big vacuums on the sanders.

He -needless to say- moves a lot of heavy stuff over it- and over a year later it still looks great.

In the second pic- those are tire tracks from the fork lift (sheetrock dust)moving several heavy pieces of equipment.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/P1010335-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/P1010258-1.jpg

[BonzoHansen]

I'm not sure it's a reasonable comparison between home use and professional shop use. I'm sure my floor would be killed in a busy shop. My garage is not that busy.

[85GPLEf41]

I got the Behr garage floor paint still haven't put it down yet.. I did get the paint, cleaner, and primer. anybody have any experience with this product? It's too late to return it and now i am kind of forced to use it. My garage floor isn't trashed and is clean except for a few stains and cracks.

[Tony_SS]

I'm still undecided... I like the nice looks of an epoxy with specs, and the usefulness of a acid etch stain... but I may just leave it alone for all purposes... I'm going to paint the walls and decide after that...

[Wesley J]

I did the u cote it and it looked good until I started working on my Camaro. Hot welding slag and sparks burn right through it. Brake fluid will penetrate it and make it peel. I had a brake booster leak in my truck and the fluid got on the tire. Now I have tire peel marks on the garage floor.

If I were to do it over I'd acid etch the floor and clear cote it.

My experience as well. Good for a garage, total crap for a "shop"

[BonzoHansen]

weld slag will burn through anything. brake fluid didn't hurt mine, but I wiped it up quickly. I etched my floor prior to application, maybe that mattered. I feel like the one guy out of ten that is happy with the ucoatit.

to the OP: I think the sleds will screw up any floor you lay down.


I got the Behr garage floor paint still haven't put it down yet.. I did get the paint, cleaner, and primer. anybody have any experience with this product? It's too late to return it and now i am kind of forced to use it. My garage floor isn't trashed and is clean except for a few stains and cracks.

if it is anything like their premium deck stain take it back. I followed the directions to a tee and that crap peeled off in 1 year.

[Wesley J]

I had an optimum base as my floor was not power troweled (only bowel floated) so it was much rougher than most floors to start. I washed/degreased to the nth degree and then etched it. I had brake fluid drip out of a line that moved in the night resulting in a yellow stain.

I put the shiny top coat on as well and it seems to be worn off in my high traffic areas (in front of benches) or at least is down to zero gloss. I worked at a place that had an idustrial coating and it held up drastically better than the ucoat it, especially in a welding environment.

I'm not bashing the product, just the marketing. They actually say that it'll hold up to welding slag if it falls from bench height. Not even close.

Wesley J