Help!! Basic body filler, prep and chasiss paint questions!!

[64skylarkls1]

Hi guys,

I can do and have done everything possible except bodywork - I've just chosen not to. Well that's bitting me in the butt right now. While doing my LS swap, I decided to smooth my firewall. I've welded and ground all the holes and even the seam.

For the first time in my life I will put down some filler. I plan on removing any remaining firewall paint before I apply anything. I believe I can mix, fill sand and smooth it out well but would really appreciate any pointers. Also, what would be the best primer and paint to use? Should I pick up a cheap spray gun or rattle can it. I'm looking for a satin black finish, staying away from gloss.

I need to stay ahead of the surface rust forming so any quick help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!!!!

Gene

[shep]

Hit it with an etch primer it can be bought in rattle can. That will prevent the rust.
I helped smooth out a fox body mustang engine bay we used evercoat metal 2 metal filler since it will handle the heat better. Get it smooth and prime and paint just like the exterior.

[Blown73]

I use a laquer thinner prior to putting on bondo and let it dry out. This gets all of the oils and what nots off the metal before you apply bondo.

[64skylarkls1]

So, to confirm what has been said: Remove all remaining existing paint, wipe down with lacquer thinner, then spray the entire surface with an ecthing primer? I assume then that the bondo can go over the etching primer?

I will get the type of filler that was recommended. I already have some surface rust flashing over areas that have been stripped. This process will all be happening starting tonight with more stripping so I really appreciate your quick responses.

Thanks!!!!

[bg5512]

I was at Sherwyn Williams the other day and they had a 2 part epoxy that came in a spray can. There is a valve the you can open to mix the 2 parts together within the can and spray just like a regular spray can. Stays good in the can for a decent amount of time. In my experience, epoxy is the way to go.

[64skylarkls1]

I was at Sherwyn Williams the other day and they had a 2 part epoxy that came in a spray can. There is a valve the you can open to mix the 2 parts together within the can and spray just like a regular spray can. Stays good in the can for a decent amount of time. In my experience, epoxy is the way to go.

You've used this before? What prep must be done?

[Paint God]

clean the metal really well with something course. I use 24 grit on a rolloc (3m product) to grind it up a bit. Clean it with a good wax and grease remover. Then skim it with Rage Gold. Knock it down with 36 grit on a block. The trick is this. As soon as you can touch it and it is no longer sticky get shaping. It should still be so soft that you need to clean your sandpaper with a wire brush every few passes. If it is not sticking to the sand paper you waited to long. If filler gets hard you will never get it straight and it is a bitch to sand. I have wathced guys with 20 years of experience sand hard bondo. They put it on, sand it off, put more one, sand it off, etc. Finally they say "thats good enouph and fix it in the primer. If you knock it down while it is soft it just works itself out. I skimmed a quarter panel the other day and got distracted with a phone call (damn cell phone) and 20 min later came back and it was rock hard. I ground it all back off with my 8 inch killer and re-skimmed. My uncle while teaching me once said "if you are creating dust that is floating away in the air, you are losing money. If if is so soft that it is falling on the floor right in front of you, you are making money".

"life is to short to sand hard bondo"

[Paint God]

Oh yea, I almost forgot. You can spread bondo right over metal. It is actually best to do it that way. Hopefully you have or have access to a compressor and spray guy. buy a small amount of any professional DTM (direct to metal) etch primer. Get one that is catalyzed and not out of a spray can. Spray that over your bare metal spots. Just a light even coat is enough. Then top coat everything with a good 2K Urethane Primer/Surfacer. If you are on a budget I recommend Marhyde's Ultimate 2k. It is cheap, thick, and works great. Just let it shrink for at least a week before prepping it for paint. As far as paint, most satin blacks are non-catalyzed. This sucks for an engine compartment because it stains easy and is not chemical resistant. I love Spies Hecker's Rally Matte Black. It is a catalyzed satin black that is damn near as tough as powder. If you are low-bucking it, go to your local body supply store and have them mix you some single stage black with some flattening agent.