Project "XXX-XXX"/Buick Regal

[xxxturbo6]

I have been wanting to do a project/build thread for some time now and since we have been doing quite a bit of stuff to it lately I figure now is a good time. About the "XXX-XXX", well that started back in the early 80's with my best friends license plate he had on his street/drag bike and I always wanted it so once I moved I asked for it from our DMV and it was approved after I told them it stood for the roman numeral of 60 which is when I was born.. Well I was actually born in 67' but they never checked. So I have had this plate for some time now and this car was the perfect project bed to fit that plate..To let everyone know what we have been doing. Some of this stuff has already been completed but I will put things together in the order they were done up to date.

The project "XXX-XXX" is a 1986 Buick regal T-Type that still sports the turbocharged V6.. (for now). Our goal with this car is to make it a honest contender on and off the street with all the amenities that make up a real pro-tour vehicle, we want Handling, Braking, Comfort, Performance, and Style...... Pretty much -"Function is Everything" motto!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/Photoshoot10310029-1.jpg


Above is just an image of the "XXX-XXX" Plate that is a real plate! I will start this off with a picture of the car the day we got it from Georgia and unloaded it off the trailer.. In this stage the car was pretty neglected and A Lot had to be fixed!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/ttype2_001-1.jpg



Okay, First we removed the front & rear bumpers and painted them to match the car. Then we painted the GNX fender louvers and lower Air dam's to match also. We also removed the inner high beam headlights and installed a mesh screen in their place for the cold air kit.

BEFORE:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/Xray-1.jpg

AFTER:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/Xray001-1.jpg

We then decided to do a GNX inspired dash to get rid of the triple pillar gauge pod and all the other gauges and incorporate them all into one area. I also wanted to bring a little bit of the outside color to the inside and white face gauges sure does a nice job. We added small LED lights for the turn signals, SES (engine light) and the turn-on & low level LED's for the Methanol injection.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/GNXstyledash005-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/GNXstyledash007-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/GNXstyledash004-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/GNXstyledash013-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/GNXstyledash016-1.jpg


The wheels were next! I sold the GTA wheels that came on the car to one of our good customers/friend and bought a set of CCW Classic's with the black anodized center with matching caps. We choose 18" and the sizes are:

Front: 18 x 9.5"
Rear: 18 x 10"
Back spacing on both is: 4.75"

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/CCWWheels011-1.jpg


Tires were next. I wanted a tire that would handle decent in all conditions and still be good at track day's so we settled on the TOYO Proxes T1R tire.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/TOYOT1Rs003-1.jpg

On the Car... Still waiting for my center caps & black locking lug nuts..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/Bumpstops002-1.jpg


Next was the Interior! This was decided right after the RTTH5 event when we done the "Dragon" 316 curves in 11 miles (I was almost sick from sliding side to side for hours... "Never again" I said.

Here is an interior shot of what it used to look like in it's stock form:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/Xray013-1.jpg


And here are some shots of AFTER the interior was done. I done this whole interior myself in my two car garage.. First we bought Pro-car Elite 1100 seats in black. The we wanted to do cloth inserts in the seats to help stop sliding so Black Alcantera (suede) was used on the following: Seat inserts, headliner, door panels, and the rear deck lid..

Here is a final picture showing a good before & after view.. Plus a few of the rear seat and the backrests of the front seats.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/Interiorpics009-1.jpg

We now have SHROTH harness' in the car to help keep us in place...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/Landons11thBday056-1.jpg




Scot W.

[xxxturbo6]

SUSPENSION:

I would like to start this off with a little information on what we’re doing to our GNS Test Car and our goals then move into the build process with some install pictures. Our goal with this car is to frequent Autocross & Road courses while keeping a Track Ready Street Friendly handling car whether it be on the street, at the drag strip or on a closed course. Our motto here is "Function is Everything"!

We chose Detroit Speed & Engineering’s full G-Body suspension package as the suspension for our GNS Test car. We will be at DSE Tomorrow documenting and doing the install. One thing about DSE, They are pounding their cars every weekend, customers are pounding their cars every weekend, and most of the time a DSE equipped car is winning (Frank Serifine) and that alone made it an easy choice for us.




We will start off with some basic measurements to give us a base to start with.

Here are a few basic numbers on our GNS test car:

Wheel base: 2746mm - 108.1in

Track: Front: 1486mm - 58.5in / Rear: 1466mm - 57.7in

Length: 5095mm - 200.6in

Width: 1819mm - 71.6in

Height: 1387mm - 54.6in


Drag Coefficient: 0.410 (Tested by GM)


Current Tire / Wheel sizes: Wheel make- CCW / 3-Piece

FRONT WHEEL: 18" X 9.5" - 4.75 Back Spacing
REAR WHEEL: 18" X 10.0" - 4.75 Back Spacing

FRONT TIRE: 255-35/18
REAR TIRE: 285-40/18

NOTE: No rubbing issues at all with stock suspension!! Went to Hotchkis lowering springs in the rear only and it dropped it perfectly 1". Got minor rubbing so I rolled the lips with the moldings.

A lot more info on wheels & fitment here:18" CCW Wheels on Scot W's car.. (http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/brakes-suspensions-tires-wheels/295464-18-ccw-wheels-scot-ws-car.html)

Stock ride height from floor to wheel well lip w/CCW wheels:

FRONT: 25.5"
REAR: 27.75"

REAR ride height After installing the Hotchkis lowering springs = 26.75"



4-Corner Scaling: Done on (8/30/10)

Next we SCALED the car on all 4 corners to give us a weight on all 4 corners before installing the DSE suspension. After the installation we will re-scale the car to see how much weight was shaved and where.

When trying to even up cross weight you want to get as close to 50% as possible.

Here is what we had in the car had at Scaling..

* Full tank of gas just topped off!
* Nothing left inside the cars counsel /glove box, no floor mats.
* Nothing in the trunk.
* Tires at recommended pressure.

First we started with leveling the scales on the surface to make sure they were level before we started. This was done using a 6ft level across the scales, and then we jacked the car up in the center and lowered it onto the scales front & rear. With the whole car resting on all four individual scales we took measurements.


FRONT "CAR ONLY" :

* Left = 997 lbs
............................Total front "car only" = 1,953 lbs
* Right= 956 lbs


REAR "CAR ONLY"

* Left = 695 lbs
............................ Total Rear "car only" = 1,436 lbs

* Right = 741 lbs


Completed Percentages & Formula:

Front Bias: 1953 / 3389 = .57627 = 57.6%
Rear Bias: 1436 / 3389 = .42372 = 42.4%


The left front and right rear are heavier than they should be. The left side usually is heavier than the right, - "without driver". Next time we scale the car we will disconnect one end link on the front and rear anti roll bars when scaling, then connect them on the scales and shim them so they don't jack weight from one corner to the other. Doing this removes any unwanted bind the sway bars could be causing. Raising a spring perch on the LF corner will increase weight on the LF and RR corners.

Our left and right side weights add up to almost even, so by adjusting the heavy corners we should be able to balance them pretty close without driver.


Next post will be install pictures and more measurements.


SW.



Picture below is how the car sits now... Stay Tuned! More to Come!!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/misc008-1.jpg

[xxxturbo6]

It is 12:30 am here and I just walked in the door from DSE in Mooresville,NC. What a facility that is! We had to push Dale Earnhardt Jr's 1967 Camaro off the lift to make room for our TR Regal!!! https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif I missed Kyle Bush by one day picking up his camaro....bummer. That would have been nice to see his too and meet him.

I can't even begin to say how nice everyone is at DSE, Kyle Tucker (owner) Made me feel right at home, He then changed clothes and jumped right in with his employee's and got filty tearing my car apart!! With everyone there being so nice, it was a bummer to leave... That place is "Top Notch" and the craftsmanship and fabrication those guys do just blows me away, These guys know what there doing!!

The complete DSE suspension is now on the car and "WOW" what a Big difference!!! It's Crazy!!



The following parts were installed:

FRONT:
* DSE Upper & Lower tubular A-arms w/Delrin bushings
* DSE Hollow Tubular sway bar
* DSE Front frame braces
* DSE 2" Drop Springs
* DSE Shocks

REAR:
* DSE Upper & Lower Adjustable control arms
* DSE Rear 1 1/8" Chassis mounted Tubular Sway Bar
* DSE 2" Drop Springs
* DSE Shocks
* DSE Drive shaft loop


Tomorrow we will be thrashing on the GNS car to get it ready for the start of Fridays RTTH event but as soon as I get an chance to go through the 200+ pic's I took and the (2) 90min videos I took I will post them here with a small detailed write up with measurements, Alignment info, Ride height info ETC...

We were ALL very surprised on how easy these parts went on the first G-Body Turbo Regal.. They literally just fell into place without hassle! I was amazing to even see the front springs go in so easy with a floor jack!! It's on video! https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Okay, it's time to crash..Thanks for looking, Stay tuned for the interesting stuff!


Scot W.

[xxxturbo6]

Okay, I have some time so I thought I would post up some pic's from my trip to DSE.

DSE Facility..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE001-1.jpg

Kyle (owner) & Ryan (Engineer of the G-Body products) taking it for a spin on the proving ground course Before the install.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE003-1.jpg

The car in the shop.....That's Dale Earnhardt Jr's Camaro beside it to the left..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE0061-1.jpg

The DSE staff doing some evaluating/documenting before the tear down..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE013-1.jpg

A look at the Front parts ready to install..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE004-1.jpg

A look at the Rear parts ready to be installed..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE005-1.jpg

Kyle Tuckers 1970 Camaro..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE012-1.jpg

Customers Car being built... My dream car!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE0081-1.jpg

Dale Earnhardt Jr's 1967 Camaro..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE010-1.jpg


Next, Give me a couple days to arrange the whole process into steps. I will also provide some good info to go along with each step that was made. A Bunch of stuff was measured/compared against the old & new products before installed. I will be adding every bit of info that was collected and the end results of the car now at the very end of this install.


Scot W.

[xxxturbo6]

Okay guy's, The RTTH event is over and now I had time to put together some more pic's and info on the DSE build.


I guess I will start off with the front install. Overall all of these parts practically fell into place! None of it was a hassle to install nor did any of these parts give us a fit while installing. Everything has been Pre-measured to "Stock Specs" before they even go out the door so the fit is perfect.



Front Lower A-Arm installed
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE028-1.jpg


Front Upper A-Arm & 1/4" Camber shim prior to install. The 1/4" shim from the DSE "Track Shim Kit" is used as a baseline for allignment.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE026-1.jpg


Front Upper A-Arm installed showing the shim installed as well..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE031-1.jpg


Here are the A-Arms installed and completed..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE050-1.jpg


Here we will install the front DSE sway bar.

In these pictures you see the DSE relocation bracket for the sway bar. This bracket is there to move the bar forward a bit from the stock location. (Not to worry it actually has MORE clrearance now over the stock one!) Must be due to the design of the DSE sway bar it's self.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE060-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE059-1.jpg


Here is a few pictures of the DSE patented sway bar "Swivel Links"tm installed. These were designed to elliminate "Bind" and allow for the front sway bar to articulate better with the front suspension to keep all 4 tires planted to the ground. In these pictures you can also see the shocks installed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE068-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE067-1.jpg


Here is the Sway bar mounted..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE070-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE071-1.jpg

[xxxturbo6]

Here is a few pictures of the DSE front Frame Braces installed. There is still Plenty of room for front mount I/C pipes!
Note: These come with the purchase of the front sway bar!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE074-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE075-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE076-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE077-1.jpg



The DSE "Drive Shaft Loop" installed..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE072-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE073-1.jpg

[xxxturbo6]

Here I did a few measurements with the Front old springs compared to the new DSE springs.

Here are the results:


"Stock 24 yr old spring Height" = 14-1/8" Tall
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE017-1.jpg



DSE Front 2" drop spring Height = 12-1/16" Tall
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE018-1.jpg




NOTE: Although the DSE springs are considerably lower prior to going in the car. The ride height only dropped 7/8" inch!

OLD "Front" Ride Height = 25.5" (measuring from ground to fender lip).

New DSE "Front" Ride Height = 24 5/8" (Measuring from the exact same place as we did for the Old ride height)..




SW.

[xxxturbo6]

Okay here we will touch on the REAR portion of the DSE suspension install.

First I would like to touch base on the info gathered on the REAR springs of the old set up and the new DSE set up. On our old set up we used the Hotchkis 1" drop springs in the car.

Hotchkis 1" drop spring Height = 13.25" Tall
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE022-1.jpg


DSE Rear 2" drop spring height = 12.25" Tall
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE021-1.jpg



Rear Ride height comparisons:

"Old" Rear ride height = 26.75" (with Hotchkis 1" drop springs)

New DSE Rear ride height = 26-1/8" ( measured after the drive around) and in the same spot as measured before.




Now we will move onto the Rear suspension install.


Here is a picture of an Adjustable Rear Lower control arm installed and an Adjustable Upper control arm installed. These DSE rear control arms are exceptionally different over the rest of them out there today and the reason for that is DSE's patented "Swivel Link" tm System. These control arms actually swivel on one end allowing your 4-link rear end to articulate fully and keep all 4 tires planted on the ground. This was a speacial interest to me when I seen the demostration done on my own car. Once the whole rear suspension was complete one of the guys took his hands and placed them on one of the rear brake drums and moved the whole axle Up & Down with ease, Then he had me do it and look at the swivel links to see them move. AMAZING.. and Not one bit of bind at all!!! DSE told me that when people box-in the stock lowers that it actually takes "Flex" away that was actually designed to be there in order for this 4-link suspension to work. It worked out fine in a drag application but not when you want to keep all tires planted to the ground.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE043-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE037-1.jpg



DSE Rear sway bar install pictures:


Here is a picture showing the "One" hole needed to be drilled to mount the bracket for the rear sway bar end links.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE035-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE036-1.jpg


Here is the end link bracket installed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE046-1.jpg


This picture shows the rear sway bar axle mount bracket installed..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE045-1.jpg


Here is a picture of the rear sway bar end links that also incorporate the patented "Swivel Link"tm System. These end links are "Beefy" to say the least and they elliminate Bind!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE056-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE053-1.jpg

[xxxturbo6]

Here is a picture showing the adjustability holes in the sway bar it's self! These holes are for moving the end link forward or backwards to change the ride of the car. Front is more for street and the rear is for a more aggressive ride.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE047-1.jpg


Here is the bar completed/installed..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSE044-1.jpg

[xxxturbo6]

I just competed in our annual RTTH event here in TN where we compete in an Autocross, Drag race and a Speed/Stop Challenge and the car was simply AMAZING!! It was flat on the autocross and still worked well on the drag strip.

On the AUTOCROSS we finished 30th out of 79 cars overall with a best time of 1:15.2 That was a very respectable time but my next three runs got nixed so I couldn't try to better them, I was bummed because we were shooting for a 1:13.0 or even better but I was super happy with how the car handled and it's a testament to how the DSE products work after just bolted in..


We finished with the car at DSE on Wednesday @ 8:30 pm and I didn't get home until after midnight, then Thursday we buttoned a few things up and went to the Dragon on Friday and the Autocross on Sat, then the drag race & Speed/Stop Challenge. Pretty good for just installing it and one day later competing with it!!!

Here is a Picture from today in the burnout box which Gives you a good idea of how the Stance looks right now.. OH and just to let people know, There was two people in the car on 2 out 3 of my Autocross runs and also two people in my car on the drag race runs. So this should eliminate any "Does it rub" questions!

(Photo's curtesy of John Simerly)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/DSC_0274-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/speedstopresults-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/20100919413-1.jpg

[xxxturbo6]

SCALE UPDATE!

Okay I rescaled the car today after the DSE suspension products were installed. As seen on the first page of this thread you might have noticed that my corner weights were of quite a bit, here is a example so you don't have to go back to look at what they were.

Old measurements (Stock suspension)

997-* *-956 = (41 lb diff)


695-* *-741 = (46 lb diff) resulting in a 56.6% / 42.4% weight bias.


Now here are the measurements AFTER the DSE products were installed.

976-* *-979 = ( 3 lb diff )


728-* *-728 = (Zero lb diff) resulting in a new 56.8% / 43.1% weight bias.



I have the scales now at the garage and we will be doing some changes to better this current weight bias.


Scot W.

[xxxturbo6]

TIME TO STOP! "BRAKES"


Let me start of by mentioning that after receiving these BAER brake products, they are top notch and top quality! Everything comes with this kit to complete the install and that makes things VERY EASY when installing these! The Rotors & Calipers seemed to impress everyone who came through our doors and people were amazed at the quality of the parts..

After some review we decided to go with the 4-piston calipers vs the 6-piston, reason for this was cost vs actual difference. Performance wise there really isn't much difference between the 4 & 6 piston calipers (per Rick E.). Since we have 18" wheels on this car we obviously wanted to go as large as possible yet still keep within budget. We decided on the BAER Track4 for the front which has 13" rotors & 4-piston calipers mounted on OEM spindles. This whole set up comes Pre-installed on the OEM spindles right from BAER. Makes for one hell of an easy installation.

There is a bunch of room left behind the CCW 18" wheel that I even believe the Track4 system will work with most 17" wheels but should always be checked with the BAER template to be sure.

For the rears we decided on BAER's NEW SS4 system which has 12" rotors & 4-piston calipers with the emergency brake!


Today we got some time to start the front brakes and in just 2 hrs the front brakes were done!!! Yes just 2 hrs....

Old Caliper & Rotor set up taken out:There are many ways/methods to doing this but this is what worked for us and was safe for us.

What we did was:
1) Remove the top nut on the sway bar link.
2) Remove the nut holding the tie-rod to the spindle turned the nut upside down and threaded it back on and hit the nut with a hammer and the ball joint & tie-rod popped right out.
3) Removed the nuts holding the upper & lower a-arms to the spindle, turned those nuts upside down and threaded them back on till they were flush with the top of the threads. Hit the spindle with a hammer until it broke free and was now held on by the nuts. Now take a floor jack and put it right under the lower a-arm joint, jack up until you support with some pressure and remove both upper & lower nuts. Remove brake line from car and slowly lower the jack about 2" OR until the upper joint comes loose. Once it's loose you can push the upper a-arm up and simply pull off the old set up all in one piece.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/baer001-1.jpg


OLD "STOCK" vs NEW!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/baer004-1.jpg


Here the New BAER brake set up is installed:
Upper ball-joint Torqued to 65 ftlbs.
Lower Ball-joint Torqued to 80 ftlbs.
Tie-rod ball-joint Torqued to 35 ftlbs.
Banjo fitting Torqued to 20 ftlbs.
Cotter pins were yet to be installed last. (Don't get any easier than that for a complete Bolt-in kit!!)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/baer009-1.jpg


Finished!! Everything is double and triple checked and cotter pins installed. Repeat process on other side and your done!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/baer012-1.jpg

Please stay tuned,The rear SS4 system is next!

Scot W.

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

that car is so fly...

[mplecha]

awesome!

[bonecrrusher]

This has to be a repost from somewhere - saw that car at RTTH's back in December.... lol.

Car is looking good.

[xxxturbo6]

This has to be a repost from somewhere - saw that car at RTTH's back in December.... lol.

Car is looking good. Thanks for the compliments guy's! Your right,some of this has been posted before in separate posts all over and that's the reason for putting them together into One build thread.


Scot W.

[RicerwannaB]

Awesome build!

[craigs73]

sweet love the look you have an pics of the motor

[SicMonte]

very nice build up!! Your car has inspired my build more than once!! Those braskes are very easy to install aren't they??!! I just did the same to my car about a month ago...so simple!!

[xxxturbo6]

very nice build up!! Your car has inspired my build more than once!! Those braskes are very easy to install aren't they??!! I just did the same to my car about a month ago...so simple!! Yes, the install was way easier than I thought it would be. I have been following your build as well..

Scot W.

[Kybosh]

Great build and write up! You gave me a couple of really good ideas. Looking forward to the next update.

[xxxturbo6]

Today we made up a bracket to mount the Proportioning valve. We still have to bend up lines and hook it up....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/proportioningvalve004-1.jpg

[Payton King]

Great write up and great car. I did not realize all of the work you had put in before RTTH. Look forward to seeing you at some events this summer.

I should be over in Knoxville mid April. I will try and hunt you down.

[xxxturbo6]

Great write up and great car. I did not realize all of the work you had put in before RTTH. Look forward to seeing you at some events this summer.

I should be over in Knoxville mid April. I will try and hunt you down. Well that's the reason I wanted to do a build thread on it because there was a bunch of work done but just wasn't posted.

Payton, maybe Bill and I can meet you for lunch or dinner somewhere when your down here!


Scot W.

[ZuperZport]

Your T-Type is simply awesome looking!

Super-duper sharp. Very classy.

If I was to build one yours would be the look.

Congrats on all the great upgrades.

Very nice!

[xxxturbo6]

Your T-Type is simply awesome looking!

Super-duper sharp. Very classy.

If I was to build one yours would be the look.

Congrats on all the great upgrades.

Very nice!ZZ Thanks for the kinds words!


SW.

[Payton King]

My in-laws live on the lake there between Knoxville and Merryville. Going over for a few days for my kids spring break. Not sure how much time I am going to have, but I will know more the closer I get. I will keep you posted.

[scogin918]

Great looking car. One of the cleanest T-Types around. Anyone jonesing for a Grand National shouldn't over look these cars. You can get all of the performance without having to keep everything original.

[RobertGP]

One of the nicest gbodys ever seen!!

[xxxturbo6]

Okay, It's time for the rear brake install...

First of all you want to remove all of the stock brakes right down to the axle tube. Now is also a great time to replace your Axle bearings & Seals seeing you will have it all apart anyways!
In the image below you may notice 4 holes in the axle tube backing plate vs the 2 holes at the bottom when stock, this will be covered later..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Brakeintall008-1.jpg


Now You will be installing the BAER Rear disc brake backing plates. To get the right ones you make sure the (Caliper mount is facing the rear of the car, and the emergency brake actuator is at the bottom) Like pictured below for the RT side wheel..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Brakeintall013-1.jpg


** BAER's Instructions say to put the bottom stock 8mm bolts back into place to hold the backing plate in place (As pictured below) and drill the top holes in the axle backing plate. CAUTION: BEFORE DILLING tape off the axle opening so No metal shavings can get into the axle tube!! First I used a 3/8" bit to get a good centered mark in the backing plate with my drill then I used a small 5/32" bit, then a 15/64" bit, then the 3/8" bit. Install the 3/8" bolts with nylock nuts.. BAER then says to torque all 4 (the two 3/8" and the old stock 8mm to 45ft lbs) Well I had one of the stock 8mm bolts bust in half before ever getting to the 45ft lbs so I just drilled out the bottom holes too and installed two more 3/8" bolts with nylock nuts and then torqued all 4 to 50ft lbs instead. I figure it will be Much better in the end anyways by using (4) 3/8" bolts and the stock brake system can still be put back on except you will have to use 3/8" bolts to go back with, No big deal...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Brakeintall011-1.jpg


Showing all (4) 3/8" bolts in place and torqued to 50ft lbs holding the BAER backing plate onto the axle.

When you are done mounting the backing plate you will need to remove the lower shock mount bolt and move the shock out of your way so you have room to install your caliper and route your brake line.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Brakeintall014-1.jpg



Now you can install your axle back into the car, install C-clips and pin..

Once the axle is installed you can now install the rotor making sure it's on the correct side (sweeping grooves facing front of car) and then the Caliper is ready to install. (as pictured)....

Note: The reason for the axle & rotor not looking like they are fully on, is due to the C-clips & Pin being out still..


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Brakeintall005-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Brakeintall007-1.jpg

Here is an image of the hard line hook-up. I'm not too happy with how it turned out so I will be using the braided to Hard line kit that BAER includes with this kit. I thought I could get away without using it and just use the existing hard line but it just does not look good..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Brakeintall006-1.jpg

And here is the rear braided line installed that BAER included with their kit..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/Brakeinstall001-1.jpg


*** Over all this whole kit from BAER has been well beyond my expectations and Super Easy to install.. This is a true Bolt-On brake kit that is well worth every penny.. No hassle, No fuss, No parts hunting, Everything is there in the kit and everything Fits the first time!!


Scot W.

[Eggy44]

Brakes look awesome! And so does the car!! Probably one of the best (if not the best) regals I have ever seen

[SicMonte]

Ok....Im doing this as well....call me a copy cat. I have the fronts now I have to have the backs...they just look to good not to have!!!

[xxxturbo6]

I just want to cap this Brake install off with a few more things that people might want to know about my set up..

I have done all kinds of reading on this site on master cylinders and Bore sizes and I had seen where BAER likes to see a 15/16" bore for there 6P systems so this brake install had me worried with the current Vacuum set up let me tell ya!

Previously I switched over from the stock Powermaster set up that came factory to the Vacuum conversion set up from a 1986 Monte Carlo SS.

After some research looking up my part number on my vacuum booster & master cylinder come to find out the 1986 Monte Carlo SS came stock with 3 bore sizes (depending on part number) in 15/16" & 24mm & 34mm bore which seems to work very well for the Track4 / SS4 set up.. :)

Needless to say I didn't need a different master cylinder to make this system work. I took the car out for a spin tonight for a good 1hr drive and these brakes work great, peddle is great and it takes less pressure to stop than the old stock set up..


Now it's time for BAER's Rotor & Pad bedding process and we should be ready for the track!


Scot W.

[mc84_zz4]

Nice upgrades! Great pics! thanks for posting some up-close shots.
I assume the backspace ends up unchanged, since the drum and the rotor hat are about the same thickness..

[xxxturbo6]

Nice upgrades! Great pics! thanks for posting some up-close shots.
I assume the backspace ends up unchanged, since the drum and the rotor hat are about the same thickness.. With the SS4 rear system for the G-body's It ends up pushing each rear wheel Out 1/8"..

[Stg1Regal]

Man Scot
.. tell me your not done...?

You still a ways to go.... GNX Bushings, All Aluminium Body Mount Bushings, Fayes 2 Watts Link, box in your frame, Roll Cage of sorts.

Just a few things I can thaink of....:headbang:

[Stg1Regal]

Scot

Man it looks sharp!! I bet you can't wait to really get in it and Hang It Out on those curves in TN.

But tell me me you ain't done.. you have more to test out on your ride.

Let's see, Aluminum Body mount Bushings, Box in the frame, Fayes 2 Watts Link,some kinds of Roll Cage, Another Turbo...... ect,ect.

Gotta git a ride in it some day.

Later

[Scott Parkhurst]

Great to see the buildup all here in one place, Scot! It was great to see you and the car in TN at RTTH6, and it's cool to see the buildup now. I told you then I dug the car- and it's cool to see how it all came together. Nice job pal- and keep the upgrades coming!

[xxxturbo6]

Scot

Man it looks sharp!! I bet you can't wait to really get in it and Hang It Out on those curves in TN.

But tell me me you ain't done.. you have more to test out on your ride.

Let's see, Aluminum Body mount Bushings, Box in the frame, Fayes 2 Watts Link,some kinds of Roll Cage, Another Turbo...... ect,ect.

Gotta git a ride in it some day.

LaterChris,

I have been driving it around testing the brakes and getting some other stuff dialed in and so far everything seems to be working great! NO I am not done yet, there are a few more things I would like to do and a new state of the art turbo is in the works that has never been put on a buick yet so it should be exciting when that happens. Our goal is to go Up in turbo size and to have it spool even quicker than it does now and I think this turbo will do the trick..

On The List:

Body bushings
Cage
DSE steering box
DSE Coil overs
Detroit true track

The factory 4-link seems to be working just fine keeping the rear end centered and in place! the Fay's 2 watts link just doesn't have any true real world results (as in suspension video or chassis dyno) on our cars to make me want to spend that kind of money on it yet. Right now I am getting NO side to side movement out of my rear axle so there are better things to spend the money on..


Scot W.

[xxxturbo6]

Great to see the buildup all here in one place, Scot! It was great to see you and the car in TN at RTTH6, and it's cool to see the buildup now. I told you then I dug the car- and it's cool to see how it all came together. Nice job pal- and keep the upgrades coming! Thanks Scott!

Yeah the whole build really needed to be in one place, too many scattered threads of stuff....I'm learning as I go!!! LOL

Scott I also enjoy looking at pictures of these events and seeing the wagon, that car is neat to see on the track. I look forward to seeing you guy's again at the next RTTH event.

Take Care!

Scot W.

[Off Duty]

Beautiful Regal man!

We bought our son a GN 9 years ago for his birthday.
Unfortunately, it turned out to be a POS, but we kept it, did some work on it and he drove it for several years.
It was parked several years ago to rebuild, but his school and other issues got it the way, and it's been sitting in the driveway neglected.

I've been wanting to rebuild it for him as a graduation present.
Your thread has just inspired me to do it!

Subscribed and Thanks:)

[xxxturbo6]

Beautiful Regal man!

We bought our son a GN 9 years ago for his birthday.
Unfortunately, it turned out to be a POS, but we kept it, did some work on it and he drove it for several years.
It was parked several years ago to rebuild, but his school and other issues got it the way, and it's been sitting in the driveway neglected.

I've been wanting to rebuild it for him as a graduation present.
Your thread has just inspired me to do it!

Subscribed and Thanks:) Gordon, If we can help in any way, feel free to give us a call...we sell a Lot of parts for them...


Scot W.

[BanditDave]

Man you are making it really hard to not ditch on my '69 Olds project and get my '84 back up and rockin' again!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Off Duty]

Gordon, If we can help in any way, feel free to give us a call...we sell a Lot of parts for them...
Scot W.

Thanks Scot.
Before it's over, I'm sure we'll be doing business:)

[xxxturbo6]

Okay, here is a quick update...

Last year at the RTTH6 we had stock (Disc-Drum) brakes on the GNS Buick T-Type and during the BAER Speed/Stop challenge we were able to muster a best of 10.53 seconds with the front tires smoking all the way into the box!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/speedstopresults-1.jpg

Now exactly one year later on the Same drag strip, same lane, same timing system, same tune (Nothing changed) except this time the car is now outfitted with BAER brakes at all for corners.... (Track4 up front & SS4 out back)... First pass = 10.29, 2nd = 9.89, 3rd = 9.70 and No smoking tires! We were getting the feel for the brakes and also dialing in the proportioning valve at the same time, I am positive with a few more passes it would have gotten even better results.

Here is a video of our best 9.70 pass @ RTTH7


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUCEpaF-VhM&feature=player_embedded

[xxxturbo6]

Okay it's been awhile since I have posted any updates but we have been very busy working on the car and this is over due....

The first thing is we have re-built the entire engine due to oil starvation and I have to attribute it to auto-x / Speed stop challenges and a stock oil pan. needless to say we fixed that problem! :fingersx:

First of all I have to say thanks to Richard Clark for helping me build this new engine and and the use of his facility and special tools! We spent 3 days over by him in NC building this thing and all the hard work definitely paid off...

Here is a list of what was done and the parts list:

Line hone
Cylinders honed
Block hot tanked & cleaned
Crank turned & polished
Engine blue printed & balanced
Oil pump blue printed


Comp cam
New turbo & exhaust housing
JE Pistons & file fit rings
Corrilo Rods w/ ARP rod bolts
Seal power Bearings
DBL Rollmaster timing chain w/ ARP bolts
ARP main studs
ARP head bolts
HD water pump
Stainless steel valves w/ viton seals
RJC - custom built baffled, deep sump oil pan with a billet alum extension block.

Here are a few pic's of the engine on arrival at Richards:
58384
58385


Here are a few pictures of the crank balancing:

Installing the bob weights:
58381


Here is a screen shot of the final balance of the rotating assembly: Right at one gram isn't too shabby!
58382


Blue Printing the Oil Pump:
58383


Bearings & ARP Main Studs installed:
58386


Balanced/Blue Printed short block assembled ready to go home:
58387


Couple final build pictures before it went in the car:
58388
58389


Scot W.
GNS Performance

[xxxturbo6]

Installed the new DSE steering shaft.... Very strong & well made piece! Fairly simple to install too........

58392

Before the installation of the DSE steering shaft this nipple coming out of the splined shaft on the steering box needs to be removed because the stock steering shaft was hollow and the DSE coupler isn't. This can either be done by removing the center pin holding the steel nipple in the shaft or simply use a dremmel tool with a 1" cut off wheel like I did because the center pin refused to go anywhere! lol
58391

Then because the stock Double D steering coming out of the fire wall is hollow and the stock steering shaft used a "Pinch bolt" up there it usually distorts that shaft making the nice machined DSE steel u-joint hard to fit on so instead of me trying to form back the double d shaft and chance making it worse all I did was take the dremmel again but this time I used a round dowel sanding bit and only sanded the inside "Rounded" part of the Double D section until it fit snug on the OEM shaft.

Then I assembled all the ends of the shaft like it should be, I collapsed the shaft all the way and installed it onto the splined section first then tapped it with a rubber mallet into place and it's done!

58393

58394


Scot W.

[SSninja]

Great build!

Do you happen to have the spring rates for the DSE front and rear springs?

[xxxturbo6]

Great build!

Do you happen to have the spring rates for the DSE front and rear springs?

Sure, here they are...

Front - 575 lbs
Rear 125 lbs

[BulldawgMusclecars]

Looking good Scott! BTW your car is the background on my laptop!

[SS PUNISHER]

Looking good Scott! BTW your car is the background on my laptop!

Ahahaha! His car is the wallpaper on my phone!

[xxxturbo6]

Thanks guy's, that's pretty cool.....

Joe you need to call me some time and let me know if your getting closer to needing those parts...


SW.

[xxxturbo6]

double post...


SW.

[instro84]

Scott, any update on the carbon parts?

[xxxturbo6]

Scott, any update on the carbon parts? They are coming, I will know more after the 5th....

[ILLMATIC]

very nice

[malibuplotter]

Did I miss the write up on the prop valve? I know it's not rocket science for most here.. But to somebody like me that's never done one before it's a little intimidating.

[xxxturbo6]

Did I miss the write up on the prop valve? I know it's not rocket science for most here.. But to somebody like me that's never done one before it's a little intimidating. Sorry about the prop valve installation, I went right past it and 100% forgot to post up those steps.

[xxxturbo6]

Scott, any update on the carbon parts? The Carbon Fiber radiator top plate & Power steering reservoir bracket came in today for final fitment and everything seems to fit just fine. Now it's just a matter of time before the guy can buff out the molds and be ready to make product... Should know more by the end of the first of next month.

[TheBandit203]

Question how did you wire your custom gauge cluster? Was it pre-fabbed or did you do it yourself?

[xxxturbo6]

Question how did you wire your custom gauge cluster? Was it pre-fabbed or did you do it yourself? I am so sorry about the replying time frame here, This post must have slipped by me and I apologize for that but here are a couple picture's of the back of my cluster.

82021 82022

[Indy3]

Beautiful car. I saw it at the Goodguys Show in Indy last summer on the Auto-X. Nice to see someone do a G-Body the right way!

What did you do to the interior regarding the color change to the dash, door panels, steering wheel, etcetera? Are those new pieces from somewhere or did you paint them?