66 Chevelle LQ9/T56 "Project LS-Heap"

[analyte]

Well, it's time I start a project thread as I've got enough parts together to go for it. I'm stuck with the name as my daughter calls my Chevelle the "Heap" since it's been looking rough around the edges compared to the wife's Magnum RT. Hopefully, she'll start seeing things my way as she's wanting to go cruising this summer in the "Heap" so that's all the motivation I need.

Chevelle as it sits:


454 w/T56 and 3:73s
4 wheel drums
Stock interior
15in Draglites with 235/60s on front and 295/50s on back
Quickest 1/4 - 12.89 at 110.5mph with 2.21 60ft

Project Highlights:


LQ9 courtesy of daytonayellaz (Thanks Travis!!!)

Corvette accessory drive for Alt/PS and Kwik for A/C
Aftermarket cam with LS6 intake using LQ9 TB with DBW
(Goal) 400+ hp/tq at rear wheels
Fuel system undecided
OEM computer with modified harness by me

Rebuilt/Upgraded T56 with Pro 5.0 shifter, hoping to use existing McLeod 12in clutch/PP on LS1 Flywheel
4 wheel C6 discs with help from Tobin at Kore3

Non-power master from corvette with Wilwood P-valve
All new brake lines bent/flared by me

SC&C Suspension courtesy of Marcus

Stage 2+ at front
Currie-trac Upper and Lower at back
SC&C springs at all four corners
Hellwig front bar and pro-touring rear bar
Bilstein Shocks
19in BBS RS-GT wheels (already have from previous project)

Jeep GC quick ratio steering sector swap
Interior redo with BMW E30 Seats, new carpet, console(?), Dynamat(?)
Goodmark steel cowl hood

Some body work followed by most likely primer until next year....


I got a good start today so I'll start uploading pics tonight.


Kerry

[analyte]

Here is the starting point, though this is a couple of years old.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P5160081-1.jpg


Here is the little one and I checking out a mock up using the BBS wheels over the c6 rotors. I even got a back tire shot even though the rotor isn't one. I definitely think I will need to find a bigger tire for the Chevelle since it's wheelwell's are larger than the bimmer's. I need to wait until the suspension is done to see how it looks on the ground.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/20110304_133620_801-1.jpg

BTW, it's easy to see how the Chevelle could be forgotten since it became a storage rack for the wife's stuff. When the baby arrived, the 66 went into hiberation. Fortunately, it's time to rise again....

Here's a another shot of the rear wheel. I've always loved the BBS mesh, but WOW that tire looks small back there.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/20110312_205903_952-1.jpg

[analyte]

First off, sorry for the crappy cell phone pics but the wife and daughter are gone for the weekend, and they took the camera.

Here is the car with all the stuff cleaned off on it. It already brings a smile to my face...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/20110326_131108_741-1.jpg

First the hood comes off and then it's time to start draining fluids one last time from the BBC (almost kinda sad really...)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/20110326_140907_467-1.jpg

There's the heart of my Chevelle for the past 9 years. She's been alot of fun, but now she's gracefully moving out to allow for a new "big gun" that will be more reliable and mileage friendly on the cruises.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/20110326_140937_721-1.jpg

[analyte]

Well, all the fluids are drained, wire's disconnected, and fender bolts are removed. It's time to pull the front cap to see what I've got to work with.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/20110326_170719_477-1.jpg

This picture is of the two body mounts underneath the radiator. They definitely needed replacing since there isn't much left. Neither bolt broke so that was nice. I can't wait to see the rest under the body.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/20110326_204854_83-1.jpg

[DYNODANNY]

Love Chevelles, need more pictures.

[analyte]

Love Chevelles, need more pictures.

Thanks, I'm trying!!

[analyte]

The front end it coming off. I was by myself so this gave me the opportunity to use my new Big Red engine hoist. This thing is awesome since it's got casters at all four corners. It's easy to move around so it took care of this job in no time....it also didn't require beer to keep working!!:cheers:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/20110326_170719_477-1.jpg

It will be much easier to work on this thing now that the front cap is gone. I can't wait for my other part orders to arrive. The original color is also visible now, Lemonwood Yellow. I can't wait to repaint it with the yellow. It will definitely be a wolf in sheep's clothing!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/20110326_172457_671-1.jpg

One last long stare at the BBC, I'm expecting great things from the LQ9 so no love is lost here..:nopity:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/20110326_172608_77-1.jpg

[analyte]

Well, I'm done for the night. I'll pull the 12bolt tomorrow so that I can send off the hubs and axles to be machined by Moser. Once they get back, I'll be ready to start assembling the C6 brakes and running brake lines. I'll be glad when she's back on her feet as then I'll be able to put her on roller skates!!

[analyte]

No pics today as it wasn't light enough for the cell phone to do any good. I'll be glad when the wife gets back with the camera.

Change in plans, I ended up pulling the engine and tranny today instead of the rear axle. The buyer for the engine was ready for it so I spent the day pulling it out for him to pick up tomorrow. This actually works out well as now my car fund is replenished somewhat considering I just sent a check on Friday for the LQ9. I'll get pic's tomorrow of the engine on its way.

The rear axle will most likely have to wait until next weekend as I don't have much time during the week for car projects. I'll update if I have new orders or parts come in.

Kerry

[srh3trinity]

Very cool list of parts, very similar to mine. I have C6 Z51's, BMW wheels and an LQ4 that are going into my 74 Firebird. I am still doing some body work, so I am going to follow along closely on your build from the mechanical end.

[analyte]

Nothing new on the car tonight, but I got the BB454 gone to open up space in the garage. I got a lot of use out of it over the years, but it was still tough letting it go considering the fun I had with it along with the money spent making it the way I wanted.

I touched base with Travis today on the LQ9. He's got three engine's to prepare for shipping ahead of mine, and then he'll get my LQ9 ready.

I spoke with Tobin again at Kore3, and I ended up ordering his billet hubs for the front. After speaking with Moser regarding my original hubs, I just couldn't justify spending that much to re-drill a 5x120 pattern on top of shaving the diameter, shipping both ways, and new bearings, etc. I spent more for the Kore3 parts, but I won't have to worry about them cracking at some point due to the extra stress from re-drilling. Tobin is good people, if you want Vette brakes, give him call!!:cheers:

I still need to get the rear pulled to decide on what I want to do with axles. I have the same concern regarding re-drilling the 5x120 pattern, but I can't afford both the axles and Kore3 hubs at the same time. I'll put this part off until next month unless I get some additional unneeded parts sold fairly soon.

[srh3trinity]

I am buying all of my brackets from Tobin too when I get to that point. He has answered questions for me for the last few years as I have accumulated parts. He is very helpful and contributes to the board here.

[tommycomfort]

This thread will definitely be worth following! Let me know if you need any parts for your 66, I have a few parts cars....
Tom

[analyte]

This thread will definitely be worth following! Let me know if you need any parts for your 66, I have a few parts cars....
Tom

Thanks Tom!!

I'm the one that bought the rear spring plates and bolts from you off Team Chevelle. It's good to know you have some extra stuff in case I break something!! :hammer:

[analyte]

Not much done on the car as I'm waiting on parts, but it has felt like Christmas over the past couple of days.

Here's the starting point for the firewall. My car is an original A/C car so I want to keep it that way. I won't have A/C from the start, but once it's running and moving around I'll use the Kwik bracket to get it going.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/P1030574-1.jpg

Here are the two front body mounts that are visible. These are fortunately being swapped out for Energy Suspension mounts. Once I have the engine placement decided, I'll pull the body off to clean/sand/paint the frame. It will also make it easier to run new brake and fuel lines.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/P1030580-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/P1030581-1.jpg

Here are a few items from I bought that arrived this week!!

Kore3 C5/6 brake brackets and lines, plus a Wilwood P/V. The shifter is a Pro 5.0 that I scored off of LS1tech for cheap!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/P1030577-1.jpg

6spd ball with line lock button, lower boot

Plus, thanks again to MuscleRodz for the free Seal-4-Good Header gaskets!!! :twothumbs

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/P1030575-1.jpg

Once the pics were taken, I stacked the new parts along with the rest. Obviously, ignore the drum brake....lol

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/P1030578-1.jpg

Until the engine arrives, or the Kore3 billet hubs and axles, I'm at a stopping point for the engine/brake conversion. I'll start working on seat brackets this week so as to knock them out.


Kerry

[analyte]

Well, after much research on LS1tech and Chevelles.com, I've come to the conclusion the existing BBC frame mounts may not work for the LS motor. The forward shift moves it too far away from the firewall, so I'm on the lookout for a set of 68-72 engine frame mounts to hook it all up. I found a guy local that has some late Chevelle parts, so hopefully he'll call back with good news.

Here is a pic of the 66-67 BBC engine frame mounts for reference. The later mounts will allow me to center up the engine mount directly over the crossmember.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/P1030579-1.jpg

BTW, if someone has successfully used the original 66-67 frame mounts, please shout out to me. I've not found anyone that has pulled it off and documented what they did.

Kerry

[analyte]

Well, I decided to start fabbing my seat brackets since I haven't found any that will fit like I want. I'm 6'5" so I need all the height I can get.

I bought some flat stock today along with some bolts to start working on the fit using the original holes to keep it squared.

This what I started with...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/P1030590-1.jpg

Yep, I have some sanding to do before I'm done, but at this point I need to stay focused on one item or I'll never get anything done. This is where I stopped, I got the bottom part level, but my carbide bits started giving up on me. It didn't help that I had to do twice as much since this is my first effort fabbing. Hopefully, this will get me ready to tackle the tranny tunnel later on to replace the hack job before..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/P1030594-1.jpg

I'm handicapped by the fact that I know what I want, but I'm still trying to acquire the skills that I need. I can't wait to start the welding. I suck at it, but it sure is fun.

Kerry

[TT302Z28]

Great thread! I have been away from the forum due to a brief distraction with dirt bikes. This was exactly the type of thread that helps motivate me to get my car back off the lift and running.

[analyte]

Well, I spent all afternoon working on the seat brackets only to find out they were too high off the floor. I used my wife to help model the seat to verify center, but I never thought to check myself after tacking them in. I got in once finished only to find my head touching the roof. So all the brackets have been pulled back out, and I'll start over again next Saturday.

I already have enough metal stock to do my next idea. I removed a bracket from the seat, and I've found a spot with will allow the seat to sit right on the floor. I'll have to drill new holes, but I'll use 1/4 inch plate under neath with a threaded rod welded through the hole so they sit flush on the floor while remaining level. That will gain me a solid 1.5 inches of head room which will be perfect.

It sucks being tall sometimes.....

Update on parts:
- The Edelbrock LS1 Headers will deliver Thursday
- Ordered Hubcentric rings from Jeg's and they will deliver on Thursday also
- I expect the axles from Moser and the Hubs from Kore3 to arrive in another 1.5 weeks
- The LQ9 won't be here for another 3 weeks.
- I'll be traveling for work the next 2 weeks, and the wife can't handle moving an engine by herself. Travis will hold onto the engine until I return
- I'll call SC&C in two week to order upper arms, springs, and shocks.
- l'll also be making a trip to Napa to buy the rest of my front end parts, but I need some poly stuff.
- I want to get the car back on the ground before installing the engine to see what hits or doesn't hit.
- I'll waiting on more feedback between the Holley and Mast pan.
- I was sold on the Autokraft, but it's worth waiting to see if one of those is a better choice since they are both cast pans


Kerry

[DYNODANNY]

Hey I will be watching your build closely since I will be doing the same in the soon. Cool build.

[rfalker1]

It sucks being tall sometimes.....


Lol i understand fully a 6'7 good luck with the seats and the build!!!!!!

[analyte]

Thanks, just learning some things along the way....

[Motown 454]

You've got anice build going on there. Great job posting it too. I enjoyed reading it.

[analyte]

It's been awhile since my last update, but between traveling due to work and ordering parts not much time has been spent on the car.

I've got quite a few new things so I'll show the eye candy first:

New Moser axles with dual patterns (5x4.75 & 5x120) with 12mmx1.50 studs and machined for C6 rotors (the box underneath is the Edelbrock LS Headers)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030600-1.jpg

LS6 intake with 28.8lb injectors and rails
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030615-1.jpg

Currie Upper Control Arms
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030612-1.jpg

Nickel-Copper brake line (I hope I can get the fronts done with 25ft...lol:fingersx::
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030616-1.jpg

Finally, a box of POR15 to coat the frame, lower A-arms, firewall, and floor (The wife has commited to helping roll it on the front half of the frame now, and then the rest when the body is lifted off)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030614-1.jpg


On order and not received are front suspension rebuild parts from NAPA (Spicer!!), Hotchkis Tie Rod Sleeves, and Umi Rear Frame Braces.

I'm looking hard at the RCD Black Revalved Bilsteins rather than the Yellow/blue HD models from SC&C. I'm just not digging the gaudy colors that are standard on those shocks.


Kerry

[analyte]

Eye candy aside, I got the driver's seat situated where I wanted it. Some welding will still be required to make it final, but I want to lay out the passenger seat first.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030599-1.jpg

Kerry

[analyte]

So far the weekend has been about stripping the front suspension off the frame so that I could start cleaning it up for painting with the POR15. My original plans were to fit the LQ9 first and then pull the body so the frame could be powdercoated, but it's not in the budget.

The cheapest I could find was $700 and I don't have a truck/trailer to get it there and back. So....I'll sand the frame and paint it myself with the wife's help. I've researched the POR15 quite a bit, and I'm pleased with what I've read when proper preparation is utilized. Working for PPG, I know all about prepping the surface for paint so no fears here.

This is what I started with:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/P1030574-1.jpg

Then once the suspension was gone, I had my starting point for cleaning....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030606-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030609-1.jpg

After about 4 hours use with a knotted wire attachment on my grinder and a wire brush on my drill, I ended up with this
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030608-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030607-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030610-1.jpg

Here is a pic of the cross member before and after, pretty incredible after a few hours
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/P1030579-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030618-1.jpg

Now, I must take a moment of silence. My grinder of 6 years suffered an unfortunate fate during the cleaning stage.........................Now then, a picture for the ages
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030619-1.jpg

I'll go back and brush the areas around the bolts holes just a little more, but the frame is just about good enough for POR15. I've seen many vehicles painted in the plants that started out with more surface rust than this on them without issues. Once the metal is cleaned and PO4'd, it will be ready for paint.

I'll need to make a trip to the store tomorrow to pick up another grinder so that I can finish the right front frame along with the area behind the steering shaft. It's all that's left before starting the metal prep stage.

Kerry

[analyte]

I forgot to mention that I heard from Travis, and the LQ9 will ship out on Monday. I'm excited about getting the engine in garage, but I've still got quite a few things to do before test fitting the engine.

On Tuesday, I'll be giving Marcus a call to order the Stage 2+ kit along with the SPC springs and Hellwig front sway bar. After paint, I'll get the front suspension assembled before playing with the LQ9's placement.

I also forgot to mention that my Mast LS oil pan arrived and the Hurst roll control showed up today. Therefore, while I'm waiting on the suspension parts to arrive (including the Kore3 billet hubs), I'll start practicing my flares for the brake lines.

Kerry

[tommycomfort]

Good progress, keep the updates coming!

[Crestronwizard]

Looking good!

[johnny68]

looking good Kerry not sure how much of a help it is but im 10 min away from RCD and know Jim the owner just fyi not sure how if any much of a break i can get
john

[andrewb70]

Nice project. I see no reason why you can't reuse your existing frame stands. Just get some adapter plates from Hooker or whoever, and use the same motor mounts that were used with the big block.

If you don't mind, please measure the location of your rear end with the stock control arms. I am looking for measurements that would determine if the rear end is centered in the chassis. So pick a reference point, like a straightedge off the axle flange and measure to a location on the frame. If the rear end is centered in the chassis the left and right measurements should be identical.

Also, when you pull your upper rear control arms please post a picture as viewed straight from the bottom of the control arm.

Thanks,
Andrew

[claytonisbob]

That Harbor Freight grinder lasted 6 years? Impressive! Looking good so far man.

[phasemaster1]

what seats are those?

[63Duece]

very cool project!

love the drivetrain setup chosen, thats what i plan to run in my Dooce.

GL w/the rest of ur project

[analyte]

looking good Kerry not sure how much of a help it is but im 10 min away from RCD and know Jim the owner just fyi not sure how if any much of a break i can get
john

That's good to know. Even if there's no break, I appreciate the offer and support!!


Nice project. I see no reason why you can't reuse your existing frame stands. Just get some adapter plates from Hooker or whoever, and use the same motor mounts that were used with the big block.

If you don't mind, please measure the location of your rear end with the stock control arms. I am looking for measurements that would determine if the rear end is centered in the chassis. So pick a reference point, like a straightedge off the axle flange and measure to a location on the frame. If the rear end is centered in the chassis the left and right measurements should be identical.

Also, when you pull your upper rear control arms please post a picture as viewed straight from the bottom of the control arm.

Thanks,
Andrew

I've got Edelbrock plates for the LQ9, and the current plan is to use those same frame mounts. Tom (tommycomfort) used the small block version for his swap with Hooker 1in back plates I believe so I know they'll work.

No problem, I plan to start working on the body mount bolts this week. I'll get the measurements and picture once the body is off as it will make it easier for me to show reference points. Besides, it's the least I can do to say thanks to you for your great build thread that has been very helpful. :cheers:


That Harbor Freight grinder lasted 6 years? Impressive! Looking good so far man.

I still can't believe it myself. I don't use it everyday, but it's been reliable up until this big job!! :headbang: Thanks for the kind words!!


what seats are those?

BMW E30 sport seats

[analyte]

I finished up sanding the front frame after pulling the steering shaft. I lost some of my day chasing parts and such, but I still got it to a point that I'm happy with it.

I still need to hand sand some parts of the frame that the wire wheel couldn't get along with a grinding wheel to get rid of weld splatter, but it should be about ready for cleaning multiple times to ensure that 45 years worth of dirt, grease, etc. are gone before the Metal Ready and POR15 is applied.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030624-1.jpg

I'll be picking up my GC steering sector and rag joint tomorrow from Advance Auto, and my front end components will be in Wednesday. While at NAPA, I'll buy some primer and cast iron paint so that I can paint everything to protect it and offset the black frame when finished.

Per my call to SC&C on Friday, there will be a 2-3 week wait on the SPC Stg2+ arms and springs so I made the decision today to go ahead and lift the body now rather than later. This will give me a chance to sand and paint the entire frame at once, and then assemble the suspension and brakes with plenty of access. I'll also use this time to run brake lines line to the front of the car.

Based on feedback from others, I'll most likely drop the LQ9 and tranny into the frame before the body goes back on it. Hopefully, this direction won't bite me later.

Kerry

[DYNODANNY]

Keep up the good work. Love to see chevelles come together.

[tommycomfort]

BMW E30 sport seats

I picked up one of those seats years ago at a swap meet and have always wondered what it came from. Now we might start looking for a match to use in Sam's four door project! Good information!

[analyte]

I picked up one of those seats years ago at a swap meet and have always wondered what it came from. Now we might start looking for a match to use in Sam's four door project! Good information!

The E30's have been comfortable since the first time I sat in one. They just look like a natural fit in the Chevelle to me.

BTW, do you have any good front 66 bumpers on your parts cars? My original one is trashed and I haven't been able to find any good drivers close by.

[analyte]

Well the front two body mount bolts are out. One came out clean, and the other snapped off in the cage nut. I'll fix it once the body is off the frame while I'm removing the original undercoating.

I decided to PB blaster the others a few more times before trying to remove them. I may just spend the week spraying bolts hoping for good luck this weekend.


Kerry

[tommycomfort]

The E30's have been comfortable since the first time I sat in one. They just look like a natural fit in the Chevelle to me.

BTW, do you have any good front 66 bumpers on your parts cars? My original one is trashed and I haven't been able to find any good drivers close by.

Yep, I have a couple really nice driver quality 66 front bumpers. I'll PM!

[analyte]

Now that the Chevelle is stripped in front, I've been soaking body mount bolts for the past week. I was planning to lift the body off the frame this weekend until I found this.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030630-1.jpg

I knew I had some issues at the wheelwells, but I wasn't prepared for how bad the trunk floor actually was. At some point, someone used fiberglass to cover the rust and must have used 4-5 cans of splatter paint to cover it sufficiently. When I started working on the body mount bolts, I knew something was up when rust powder started dropping all over.

I'm wondering what should I do at this point. I'd rather pull the body off and finish the frame, suspension, and fuel/brake lines. Do you think the new panels will need to be welded in first to avoid body alignment issues, or could they be replaced after the body is back on the frame? I don't want any body issues and I'm not sure I've got the skills for this big of a job, but the car's not very mobile right now.

Kerry

[66larkgs]

Now that the Chevelle is stripped in front, I've been soaking body mount bolts for the past week. I was planning to lift the body off the frame this weekend until I found this.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030630-1.jpg

I knew I had some issues at the wheelwells, but I wasn't prepared for how bad the trunk floor actually was. At some point, someone used fiberglass to cover the rust and must have used 4-5 cans of splatter paint to cover it sufficiently. When I started working on the body mount bolts, I knew something was up when rust powder started dropping all over.

I'm wondering what should I do at this point. I'd rather pull the body off and finish the frame, suspension, and fuel/brake lines. Do you think the new panels will need to be welded in first to avoid body alignment issues, or could they be replaced after the body is back on the frame? I don't want any body issues and I'm not sure I've got the skills for this big of a job, but the car's not very mobile right now.

Kerry

dont worry about alignment issues when removing a trunk. it isent as bad as you think to put in a trunk floor. buy a nice spot weld drill bit and start drilling the spot welds and cutting out the old floor once the new piece comes in. Make sure you dont cut the supports out if they are not rotted. if they are rotted cut them out and weld in a new set. will prob take you 5-8 hr job. youtube v8tv and he had some nice vidoes on trunk replacement.

66larkgs
turbo t67 buick nailhead 401
http://s917.photobucket.com/albums/ad19/66larkgs/66%20skylark%20turbo%20nailhead/

[analyte]

[QUOTE=66larkgs;798027]dont worry about alignment issues when removing a trunk. it isent as bad as you think to put in a trunk floor. buy a nice spot weld drill bit and start drilling the spot welds and cutting out the old floor once the new piece comes in. Make sure you dont cut the supports out if they are not rotted. if they are rotted cut them out and weld in a new set. will prob take you 5-8 hr job. youtube v8tv and he had some nice vidoes on trunk replacement.

66larkgs
turbo t67 buick nailhead 401


Thanks for the positive support, and I appreciate the heads up on the v8tv videos. I'll check out tonight.

[analyte]

Well, after 24 hours of being irritated with my discovery, I rolled up my sleeves and got to work. This also gave me an opportunity to try out my new air chisel!! I've researched it since last night, and I feel I'm capable of doing this since it's more spot welding than bead welding.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030633-1.jpg

Once the gas tank was removed, I started grinding the floor to locate the spot welds and I found that what I initially thought was trunk liner turned out to be fiberglass strips overlaid multiple times. Therefore, all the grinder did was create white powder and smoke. Therefore, I decided to pull out the recip saw and cut out the larger sections that were barely hanging on, and then used my new air chisel to take out the spot welds from above or underneath.

I'm leaving a inch lip at the rear of the car as I'll spend the time grinding to uncover the spot welds for the back half due to it still being solid as a rock. It appears my gas tank braces are covered with surface rust, but they seem solid when hit was a ice pick. I used a wire knot wheel on the pass side to see how it looked, and I believe they may be saved. The body mount braces are both trashed so those got added to the shopping list. I won't add the side caps to the floor at this time as I'll save those for when I get new quarters installed as those are definitely beyond me.......at least for now. :smoke:

Once I have the new trunk floor in, I'll work on the inner wheel wells since it appears they are the only wells that will need replaced.

Here is the boss checking out my progress. She gave me 10 weeks to get the LQ9 conversion done, and she's not relenting even with the newly discovered rust.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030635-1.jpg

She's been a great side kick handing me tools and cleaning the garage, but she has strict requirements that all the "dirty" stuff is my job alone!! She's looking forward to taking it to shows and autocross events so I'm leaning on her for motivation.


Kerry

[analyte]

Nice project. I see no reason why you can't reuse your existing frame stands. Just get some adapter plates from Hooker or whoever, and use the same motor mounts that were used with the big block.

If you don't mind, please measure the location of your rear end with the stock control arms. I am looking for measurements that would determine if the rear end is centered in the chassis. So pick a reference point, like a straightedge off the axle flange and measure to a location on the frame. If the rear end is centered in the chassis the left and right measurements should be identical.

Also, when you pull your upper rear control arms please post a picture as viewed straight from the bottom of the control arm.

Thanks,
Andrew

Andrew,
I got the frame separated from the body today, and took measurements for you. The rear in my car was off-center by 1/2 inch to the left side. It makes since as with my previous wheel/tire combo I always had a little rub on the right rear in turns but never on the left rear. I knew it wasn't centered perfect based that condition.

I also took a couple of pictures of the control arms. If I didn't get the exact shot you were wanting just let me know and I'll get more.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030639-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030640-1.jpg

They don't appear to be made off center, but it could be just me. What do you think?

Kerry

[analyte]

I got a lot done this weekend as I was able to spend the majority of both Saturday and Sunday in the garage. I got the body separated from the frame.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030641-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030642-1.jpg

I also got the 12 bolt pulled this weekend which was the last step to getting the frame completely stripped.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030644-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030638-1.jpg

The rear needs a lot of cleaning to be ready for paint and install of the new Moser axles and C6 brakes. I'll most likely set it aside for now and work on the frame as the front suspension is all new so nothing is needed for install except for the frame to be cleaned and painted.

I forgot to take pics this weekend, but I got my goodies in from SC&C, NPD, and my billet hubs from Kore3. I'll get pics this week and upload for everyone's entertainment.

Kerry

[andrewb70]

....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030639-1.jpg

....

Thanks for putting in the effort. It's hard to say from the pictures if the arms are offset or not. I guess the way to tell would be to take a straight edge and position it against the bushings to see how the front and read line up. It's also possible that the 64-67 cars are slightly different than the 68-72 cars. :rolleyes:

Andrew

[analyte]

Thanks for putting in the effort. It's hard to say from the pictures if the arms are offset or not. I guess the way to tell would be to take a straight edge and position it against the bushings to see how the front and read line up. It's also possible that the 64-67 cars are slightly different than the 68-72 cars. :rolleyes:

Andrew

I'll get my level out and check for straightness. That should allow me to determine if they are offset or not.

Kerry

[rfalker1]

good progress!!!! You are knocking the hard stuff out the way!!

[tommycomfort]

Hey Kerry, looking good! What year is the rearend? The spring perches look to be a 67-72. Not a problem if it's a 67, but if it is 68-72 it will be one inch wider and will make a difference ordering wheels someday. (our 66 has a 72 12 bolt)
Tom

[analyte]

Hey Kerry, looking good! What year is the rearend? The spring perches look to be a 67-72. Not a problem if it's a 67, but if it is 68-72 it will be one inch wider and will make a difference ordering wheels someday. (our 66 has a 72 12 bolt)
Tom

Good eye Tom!!

The rear is out of a 71 Chevelle. My brother and I pulled it out of a 66 at a salvage yard and it turned out to be the later style. I got it anyway since it was the gear I wanted at a great price.

Since i made this change, the wheels I have took the extra width into account. It actually made finding wheels easier since wheels with extra back spacing are more popular with the BMW crowd.

Kerry

[analyte]

good progress!!!! You are knocking the hard stuff out the way!!

I sure hope so!!!! LOL.

Thanks for the support.
Kerry

[rfalker1]

SO what color do you plan on making her????

[analyte]

SO what color do you plan on making her????

I'm a fan of the original color, Lemonwood Yellow, but the daughter is pushing hard for Orange. It will most likely be a battle until the end...LOL

[tommycomfort]

Lemonwood is one of my favorites!

[analyte]

This weekend I planned to finish the frame no matter what!! This will be my last chance to work on it for the next few weeks as I've got to work on my "Honey-do" list for the house (it was the deal!!). Therefore, last weekend and yesterday was spent finishing up the grinding and sanding on the frame in preparation for paint. The wife even volunteered to help me paint so as to get it done by my deadline!!:cheers:

Here is where I started yesterday morning after my work last weekend; the frame again in the driveway awaiting my attack!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030683-1.jpg

To give everyone an idea of how far I've come, here is a shot from the back before I got started. There is a lot of surface rust and grease/oil/grime, you name it!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030684-1.jpg

This is what it looked like when I got finished cleaning it, though I had to go back and work on that crossmember above the axle a little more. It was pretty much 45 years of grease and oil...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030686-1.jpg

Once the cleaning was done, I used the Marine Clean to get all the contaminants off the frame before painting. I ended up cleaning it three times with the "MC" before I was satisfied that it was clean enough. I definitely don't want to have to do this again. Once that step was complete, I hit it with Metal Ready to get the Zinc-PO4 coating on the frame to help the paint adhere. Here is a couple of before paint pics.

Front:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030687-1.jpg
Back:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030688-1.jpg

I called the wife, and true to her word, we started painting the frame. She worked on the inner frame rails while I painted the exterior and crossmembers. The wife is a great painter and only got a couple of drops on one arm, while I killed a shirt and a pair of shorts during this step. It's safe to say my hands will have a darker "tan" than normal for about a week. LOL

Finally, here is the finished frame.
Front:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030689-1.jpg

Back:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030690-1.jpg

Wide Angle:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/P1030691-1.jpg

I've still got to clean and paint the rear axle and front lower arms so I'll touch up the frame under the jack stands at the same time. I'm definitely glad to have this task behind me. I'm really looking forward to assembling the painted frame with new chassis parts. I can't wait!!!

Kerry

[rfalker1]

I'm a fan of the original color, Lemonwood Yellow, but the daughter is pushing hard for Orange. It will most likely be a battle until the end...LOL
well how about you make it have a little bit of both. I am sure orange and yellow could work

[analyte]

well how about you make it have a little bit of both. I am sure orange and yellow could work

You're probably right, but she's not much of a compromiser.....:enguard:

[CruizinKev]

por15 is a great product! :twothumbs looks great!! congrats now bolting on all the clean parts starts the real fun!

[sskp1]

It is looking good, the best part about this build is that it is happening 8 hours away from me.:rotfl:

All kidding aside, you are doing great work and you are making me proud to be your:grouphug: brother. sniff sniff

[analyte]

After two weeks of "honey-do" lists for the wife and attending RTMC as a spectator, I wanted to make the most of my one day on the car.

I started on front end with the intention of getting the entire front suspension installed. I ran into a few hiccups along the way that I'll point out as I go.

First up was getting the SC&C Stage 2 kit installed with the SPC springs. I've got Varishocks DA for the front suspension, but without an engine there was no way for me to install the shocks inside the springs. I want to finish this build so nothing risky is worth it so I used an internal spring compressor to get the springs in. Once the engine/trans/body is install, I'll pull the front back apart to install the shocks since it will be easier to do with weight up front.

Here is the right front with the Kore3 hubs installed:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/P1030727-1.jpg

Here is another shot of the hubs, those are a work of art and very light!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/P1030729-1.jpg

Once the right side was done, I switched over to the left since I had the arms install fresh in my mind. I also wanted to get the "art" of fighting the lower bushings into their pockets behind me.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/P1030730-1.jpg

After the arms and spindles were on, it was time to install the Kore3 brackets for the C6 calipers. The instructions were clear so this was a non-event.

Here is the completed left side:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/P1030731-1.jpg

With the tire/wheel installed:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/P1030733-1.jpg

Moving to the right side, rotor and caliper installed:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/P1030734-1.jpg

Finally the tire/wheel on the right side:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/P1030736-1.jpg

Once the tires where on, it was time to start bolting in the front end components I got from NAPA. The steering box is a fast ratio box from a 98 JGC, and the pitman arm from my original manual box won't fit. I'll have to take some measurements to verify, but I'll need to hit the yards or ebay looking for a p/s pitman arm to bolt on. The rest of the parts went on fuss-free, and those with critical eyes will pick out the Hellwig hollow front bar in the mix:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/P1030738-1.jpg

Here's a token shot of the Hotchkis sleeves. Much prettier and easier to work with than the stock sleeves. I'm also very impressed with the Hellwig bar as it was lighter than I expected. The Hammertone finish looks good with the black frame/arms and the cast iron finished suspension parts:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/P1030741-1.jpg

Finally, here is a final shot of the right front to help visualize the wheels;
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/P1030740-1.jpg

Now that the front is done, I'll start on the rear axle when I get back on the car in two weeks. The axle will need to be cleaned and painted before install, but I'll finally be able to get the axles out of the box that Moser sent me.

Kerry

[CruizinKev]

looking good!!! :twothumbs

[tommycomfort]

Excellent progress. Keep up the good work Kerry!

Tom

[Hotchkis]

After two weeks of "honey-do" lists for the wife and attending RTMC as a spectator, I wanted to make the most of my one day on the car.

I started on front end with the intention of getting the entire front suspension installed. I ran into a few hiccups along the way that I'll point out as I go.

First up was getting the SC&C Stage 2 kit installed with the SPC springs. I've got Varishocks DA for the front suspension, but without an engine there was no way for me to install the shocks inside the springs. I want to finish this build so nothing risky is worth it so I used an internal spring compressor to get the springs in. Once the engine/trans/body is install, I'll pull the front back apart to install the shocks since it will be easier to do with weight up front.

Here is the right front with the Kore3 hubs installed:


Here's a token shot of the Hotchkis sleeves. Much prettier and easier to work with than the stock sleeves. I'm also very impressed with the Hellwig bar as it was lighter than I expected. The Hammertone finish looks good with the black frame/arms and the cast iron finished suspension parts:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/P1030741-1.jpg

Finally, here is a final shot of the right front to help visualize the wheels;
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/P1030740-1.jpg

Now that the front is done, I'll start on the rear axle when I get back on the car in two weeks. The axle will need to be cleaned and painted before install, but I'll finally be able to get the axles out of the box that Moser sent me.

Kerry

Analyte – thanks for using Hotchkis products on your ’66 Chevelle build. Looking good!

[rfalker1]

Love the wheels!!!! they should look quite unique

[analyte]

Well, I was able to get back on the Chevelle this weekend after a two month hiatus. I tried to make the most of my "off weekend" from the "honey-do" list.

I set a goal for the frame to be a roller by the end of the weekend....

I started off getting the rear in a workable location. I got the old axles pulled and the backing plates removed so I could start cleaning it up for paint.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030791-1.jpg

Fast forward past several hours with a wire wheel and sandpaper, and you end up with the axle looking much better with 2 coats of paint and new bushings.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030792-1.jpg

In between coats of paint, I worked on installing the Currie upper and lower control arms along with support braces. I got the lower control arms from Tom (tommycomfort, Thanks!!) so I know they are experienced racing pieces!! The support braces are Umi.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030794-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030793-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030803-1.jpg

Once the paint was dry it was time to get back on the axle. It was getting late in the afternoon and looking like rain was coming so I got out some boxes with new parts and started assembling.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030795-1.jpg

I started by installing the Kore3 brackets for the rear C6 brakes. The instructions are fantastic so this part goes quickly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030796-1.jpg

I got Moser axles with the dual bolt pattern like the front. Extremely nice pieces!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030797-1.jpg

The C-clips went in easily, and the pin was a non-event. I'm starting to get worried as it seems everything is going together too well. Doubts aside, I started installing the rotors followed by the abutments and calipers. This C6 stuff is nice, and I like the OEM durability.

Left Side Done
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030798-1.jpg

Right Side Done
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030799-1.jpg

Here a shot of the right side completed with wheel. I really like the BBS's for their simple, elegant design and the fact that they aren't seen very often on PT cars.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030800-1.jpg

Once both wheels were on, it was time to drop the axle off the jacks and make a roller out of it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030801-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030802-1.jpg

I had one more piece to add, but I need the axle installed first. Thanks again to Tom for the quick help when I got stumped on the install. It's great having friends to text with pics when needed!!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030807-1.jpg

Once the bar was in, I had a great feeling. I still need to add the clamps on either side of the sway bar, but I'll need to move the C-hangers slightly inboard to get them to fit right. The picture makes the bar look off center, and I ran outside thinking I had screwed up. I figured this was payback for everything else going smooth. Even so, I've measured that thing half a dozen times, and it's dead on center though it still gives me fits visually. LOL

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030810-1.jpg

The sway bar was the last piece, and I now have a frame as a roller. That was indeed a good feeling.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030804-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030805-1.jpg

Well, the weekend is over. I'll be back on house upgrades next week, but walking through the garage will be so much sweeter now. I need to get another Mast pan ordered so I'll do that shortly, but I really need to work under the body scraping undercoating until the pan arrives. Not only that, I need to figure out what I'm going to do with the firewall. The AC setup is sold so I need to fab a panel or buy a premade to smooth it off.

So many things left, but I'll feeling really good right now!!

Kerry

[73z-6sp]

gbhnjmk

[tommycomfort]

Wow, that is great progress! Your former Mast oil pan is now race proven too. Thanks for your help also!
Tom

[orbit]

Awesome build! Its great to see the progress pics and that you are doing it right! That car is going to drive completely different and stop soo much better. Keep the pics coming.

[analyte]

Thanks for all the support!! These projects definitely take a team effort!!

Well, I couldn't leave well enough alone so I got back on the rear sway bar tonight to see if I could get it perfect, or close to it. I started out with the tape measure, but the axle doesn't have a good center point to go off. Therefore, I ended up setting it visually followed by measurements from the center of the lower two cover bolts. I also got the lock keepers on the outside of the sway bar mounts to keep the bar from walking.

I believe it correct now, but the picture still makes it look off due to the bump in the cover. Does everyone agree I'm centered? Don't be shy!!

Before
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030810-1.jpg

After
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030844-1.jpg


Kerry

[daytonayellaz]

Nice work Kerry!! I didnt know you had a build thread going. Thats a major undertaking you took on with your car. I didnt realize you were going to this extent, but WOW! This baby is going to be a whole new animal!

[analyte]

Nice work Kerry!! I didnt know you had a build thread going. Thats a major undertaking you took on with your car. I didnt realize you were going to this extent, but WOW! This baby is going to be a whole new animal!

LOL, this entire project started out as just an LSx conversion. Once it got going, I began to decide if I'm going this far, I'm going the entire way. The goal is to make a reliable cruiser and PT car that my daughter and I will enjoy. The last thing I want to do is break down because I skipped over something. So, I made the call to take it down and do it right. My goal is to have it back on the street by next spring. I don't expect to have the exterior paint done, but the rest should be good for some summer fun.

Kerry

[therobski]

Analyte, I just read your thread and thought wow I'm not alone on these "rustbuckets" I am building 64 F-85 very similar GM A-body car. I brought my thread back top for you too take a look. With the help of other "gearheads" I put pans, the brackets and a trunk in this car, if you need any help I may be able to make your life a little easier. A few more pictures:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_0693-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_0695-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_0692-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_0691-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/IMG_0327-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/IMG_02701-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_0335-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_0263-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/IMG_02621-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_0265-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/trunk1-1.jpg

[therobski]

One thought on under coat removal, go buy a "Needle scaller" at Harbor Freight Tools. It will be your best friend for that part of the project for $25.00. Extra needle are only $5.00!!! TIP: If you do that make sure the undercoated panels are cool and in the shade. You will not believe how great this tool is for undercoat and heavy rust removal.

[analyte]

One thought on under coat removal, go buy a "Needle scaller" at Harbor Freight Tools. It will be your best friend for that part of the project for $25.00. Extra needle are only $5.00!!! TIP: If you do that make sure the undercoated panels are cool and in the shade. You will not believe how great this tool is for undercoat and heavy rust removal.

Sweet, thanks for the tip!! I'll also check out your build thread since were doing similar projects.

Kerry

[analyte]

I got a little done yesterday since we were taking another break from house stuff. I had ordered 25ft of NiCopp brake line thinking that should be enough, but I was mistaken. I'll need to order another 25ft to finish off the front end and master coils.

This was my first time trying to flare lines on my own, and it seemed to go well. It wasn't as hard as I expected, but Tobin had told me the NiCopp line was easy to work with. I just hope they don't leak....lol

I first installed the flex line from Kore3 on the axle using the stock bracket.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030857-1.jpg

I couldn't find a good place to use the brackets sent with the Flexcore lines so I improvised and used the original clip to hold down the left side.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030858-1.jpg

Here is the right side. The line wasn't as straight as the left, but not having the clip of that side of the axle impacted it somewhat. I'll have to come up with something else to secure the flex line.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030860-1.jpg

Here is both lines tied into the center. So far so good, though I still need to add the clips that secure the lines to the axle cover bolts.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030861-1.jpg

My original lines were more of a straight shot across the crossmember, but now that I added support braces to the control arms I wasn't able to do that. I ended up bending the line over the bars secured by the clip afterward to keep it safe.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030862-1.jpg

Here is the coil that was left after running lines down the frame. I'm definitely not the best at bending as my bender never quite made it how it needed to be and me using my hands wasn't much better.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/P1030864-1.jpg

The only other thing I did today was install the new axle cover gasket and pinion seal for the 1350 yoke. I then filled the axle with 2 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic lube with a bottle of Ford posi-lube.

I'll order more line for the front and finish this task, and then I'm closer to setting the motor in the frame. I still have to work on the underside of the body, but I'm trying to get the frame completely done.

Kerry

[therobski]

Yes are builds are really going along some of the same line. I'm running Moser 9inch with GM housing ends.a I attached a picture of some insulted support brackets I just bought today from the hardware store for the brake lines. I boxed the frame so most the line will be attached with these supports along the frame and also in the front where the line goes across from driver to passenger side. They aslo have bigger ones for fuel lines etc. Where did you get those flexible lines from and the Koer3 flex line? I bought a flaring tool kit from Eastwood-I would like to learn how also. Looking good Kerry.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_1020-1.jpg

[analyte]

I bought the flex line from Kore3. Give Tobin a call and he'll set you up.

http://www.kore3.com/categories.php?cat=10

I like those clips. I'll have to take a walk through Lowe's to see what I can find here.

Kerry

[therobski]

Thanks I will. I got those cushion clamps from a specialty type hardware store. Not many of these left. They also have all the grade 8 fasteners you can imagine. If you cannot locate those maybe Jegs may have some. I have Jegs part # 82036 same type of cushion line clamps but larger, these are for my fuel line when I get to it. GM A-body P/S pitman arms are dime a dozen. What I did is drill a pilot hole into the frame rail and I used a self tapping stainless steel screw and my cordless drill! Whala!

[analyte]

As stated earlier in this build thread, my daughter and I are trying to decide on a color. I like the original Lemonwood yellow, but she is adamant the car needs to be Orange. She's been looking hard at different cars for the right look, and she saw an orange today that she thinks will look good.

I have no photoshop skills so here is a picture of the orange she saw and liked. It's called Chrome Orange on the Lotus Elise. I can only imagine what it will cost by the gallon.....good thing I work for PPG!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/LotusEliseOrangeStore1280x960-1.jpg

Let me know what you think.....

Thanks,
Kerry

[analyte]

Thanks I will. I got those cushion clamps from a specialty type hardware store. Not many of these left. They also have all the grade 8 fasteners you can imagine. If you cannot locate those maybe Jegs may have some. I have Jegs part # 82036 same type of cushion line clamps but larger, these are for my fuel line when I get to it. GM A-body P/S pitman arms are dime a dozen. What I did is drill a pilot hole into the frame rail and I used a self tapping stainless steel screw and my cordless drill! Whala!

Thanks for the part number at Jeg's just in case. I'll check at Fastenal to see if they are in stock.

[analyte]

Finally an update after several weeks. Fortunately, my brother came to the Nashville area for a conference so I was able to bribe him into helping me get the body back on the frame. He also came bearing gifts: another engine hoist.

Here is where she has set for the past several months. I've earned enough credits on "honey-do" stuff to work out in the garage. I love it when a plan comes together!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/P1030921-1.jpg

Before the real fun could begin, I needed to install the new coated brake line clips I got from McMaster-Carr. While shopping on the web, I also picked up some neoprene fuel line clips along with some 3/8 aluminum 5052-O fuel line. I went ahead and got enough to run the entire car.

I had some left over braided line that I used to cover/protect the alum line over the rear frame.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/P1030926-1.jpghttps://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/P1030928-1.jpg

I had been working on and off as time allowed to clear the firewall of all wiring and cables. Here I am getting the emergency cable off after the clip wouldn't cooperate!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/P1030925-1.jpg

I've got to keep an eye on my brother at all times. Apparently, he's dying for a chance to take it around the block when finished.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/P1030929-1.jpg

Another item taking my time over the last several weeks was sanding/striping/cleaning the floorpan on the car. It was actually in pretty good shape after the oil, road grime, and undercoating was removed. I found a couple of pin-holes in the driver floor that needed fixing, but otherwise solid. I laid on a coat of paint and may use some undercoating in the future. I really just wanted something simple to maintain and repair since I expect this area to get scratched and banged.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/P1030933-1.jpg

Here is the pic of the body lifted. So far so good....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/P1030934-1.jpg

Here we're moving the body around in position to slide the frame underneath from the side. The previous rattle can paint job on the firewall is obvious here. Media blasting after the first of the year will take care of that.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/P1030936-1.jpg

Two old friends catching up...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/P1030938-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/P1030939-1.jpg

Almost there...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/P1030941-1.jpg

It's underneath and lined up by the eyeballs. We'll start lowering the body and raising the frame to line up the body mounts.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/P1030943-1.jpg

Obviously, a picture my brother took. I need to relay the finer points of "garage photography"!!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/P1030945-1.jpg

All together now!!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/P1030952-1.jpg

Now that the body is back on the frame with new body mounts, I'll get back on the trunk floor repair. Once that is done, I'll start stripping the interior and exterior parts in preparation of media blasting early next year. The suspension sure looks good under there all black and pretty. I just wish the Vari-shocks had came in to finish it off.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/P1030954-1.jpg

After finishing up, I noticed the body had a slight lean. It's lower on the passenger side by 1/2in both front and rear. I've got to loosen all the suspension components and bounce the body now that some weight is on the chassis to make sure nothing's in a bind. I'll verify the springs are in their pocket correctly, which I'm pretty sure of already, but nonetheless I hope those "easy" things will correct the lean. If not, I'll have to dig deeper.

In retrospect, this is a crappy pic since the camera itself was not level....duh
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/P1030955-1.jpg


Well, now it's back to the disassembly stage again, but bigger and better things are ahead. I know the full weight of all the parts aren't on the chassis, but I expected it to sit lower with the SPC springs in back based on what I've read on the web...

Thanks go to my brother Kevin for helping me out since this was definitely not a one man job.

Kerry

[SRD art]

Great project Kerry! It's coming together nicely! Amongst all the other cool goodies those wheels look great on there!!

[CruizinKev]

nice updates! good work Kerry! :twothumbs

[analyte]

Thanks for the compliments. I still have a ways to go, but it feels like a win to get to this point.

Kerry

[analyte]

I got the body cleaned up for the next step; stripping the rest of the trim and other parts off the main shell. Now I need to start calling in favors....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/20111030_143230_14-1.jpg


Kerry

[dslwizard]

I like what you are doing and remember my tear down from your pictures. Thanks and keep up the good work.

[analyte]

I like what you are doing and remember my tear down from your pictures. Thanks and keep up the good work.

Thanks for the positive feedback. I'm really having a blast with this project!!!

[BCHALK22]

Just read through this entire build.. Good work my friend it is coming along.. cant wait for more updates.

[bart0510]

Looking good! Very nice work so far, keep it going. Can,t wait to see this when you get it done.

[analyte]

It's been a while since my last update, but between the holidays and work there wasn't much time for car stuff. Not having a heated garage also limits my motivation on really cold days.

Most of the time I've had has been on my trunk replacement project, but after cutting it out I found far more rust in the quarter panels and inner/outer well's that I anticipated. I've also found that the right quarter was poorly repaired earlier in it's life with fiberglass, aluminum tape, and lots of bondo. Therefore, I've made the decision to pass this on to an expert for all the metal repair as I'm just not equipped enough and experienced enough to get it done in the limited time I have for this project. My goal is to get it painted by the end of the year so time is being wasted with my stumbling.

That said, the car will be media blasted in March before going to my metal guy. That way we don't miss anymore rust since I'm not taking any chances. Once he's done, I'll have the car coated with PPG's finest epoxy before returning to me. At that point, I'll prebuild the rest of the parts to ensure everything is how it needs to be before sending it back in for paint. If time allows, I'll shoot it myself but again that will be dependent on my schedule. The family and I have made a decision on color. I planned to go with Lemonwood Yellow, but the girls wanted more yellow in it so we've agreed, after much deliberation and frustration, on BMW Dakar Yellow I which keeps it subtle for me but more yellow for them. This color was originally available on 91-95 M3's.

And now to our regularly scheduled update.....

Now that I'm freed from the body, I will be starting on the engine to get it cleaned, painted, and setup for test fitting when the car comes back. The low mileage 6.0 LQ9 arrived a couple of week ago from Travis (great guy by the way) by way of a 2005 Silverado SS, and I started by getting it off the pallet today.

Here it is as delivered, minus the plastic wrap:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/P1040133-1.jpg

Once I cleared the intake and exhaust manifolds, I started checking the visual condition of the engine. Here are the knock sensors on the mid plate with what appears to be some oil/water mix:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/P1040134-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/P1040135-1.jpg

Here is the intake port with some carbon buildup that I'll have to clean out:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/P1040138-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/P1040140-1.jpg

I pulled a valve cover to check the rocker area for wear, and everything looked really good:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/P1040141-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/P1040142-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/P1040143-1.jpg

Once I was done checking everything out, I got it on the engine stand to start doing the main disassembly.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/P1040145-1.jpg

Next, I'll clean and paint the block and valve covers black to match the inner fenders and intake. When finished, I'll be swapping to a Mast oil pan, TSP or EPS cam/pushrods, LS2 timing chain, and a LS6 oil pump for durability. I initially planned to use the truck accessories, but now I'm thinking of using the corvette setup to avoid PS pulley interference with the steering box. Time will tell.

Hopefully, I'll get back on track with the updates.....

Kerry

[tommycomfort]

I wondered what had been going on with your Chevelle. Glad to see you're back at it!
Tom

[daytonayellaz]

Now that I'm freed from the body, I will be starting on the engine to get it cleaned, painted, and setup for test fitting when the car comes back. The low mileage 6.0 LQ9 arrived a couple of week ago from Travis (great guy by the way) by way of a 2005 Silverado SS, and I started by getting it off the pallet today.

Kerry

Thanks for the compliments Kerry! Glad we got you taken care of :cheers: Im looking forward to seeing this running soon. Keep after it!, Your doing a great job!

[analyte]

Well, today I got a few things done. I stripped the accessories off the engine, turned the car around, and stripped more parts off the car to get it closer to being just a shell.

The first part of my day involved stripping the doors of all of the glass, hinge mechanism, vent windows, and felts. It wasn't a hard job, but it was time consuming for me as I had never done it before. Once the first door was done, I had the second one stripped in around 45 minutes give or take.

The door panels were replaced around 15 years ago when I first bought the car, but the quality has never been great as they've been re-glued several times over the years.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/P1040156-1.jpg

A shot after the door was stripped a couple of hours later. I spent more time tagging and bagging than anything to ensure I didn't forget where anything went.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/P1040157-1.jpg

Here is the other side, a few shots during the disassembly to help me remember the locations. I also got reminded that speaker holes were cut in the doors by some previous owner.I may have my metal guy weld some metal back in just to maintain their structure. It will also help the door panel be more sturdy in that area.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/P1040149-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/P1040150-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/P1040151-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/P1040152-1.jpg

Now that the doors are done, I'll pull the rear seat and tray before starting on the rear quarter windows. I would have liked to start on them with the fronts being fresh in my mind, but the day was over and the lights in the garage weren't enough by themselves.

Kerry

[analyte]

After a break, I started pulling the accessories off the LQ9. This was pretty routine and straightforward, but that darn balancer bolt is one tough dude. I bought a 24mm socket since I didn't already have one, but I've got to get a buddy to come over to stop the engine from turning when I put the 4ft pipe to it. I did try my impact just to see if it would do it for me, but alas no luck.

A before pic with all the accessories
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/P1040144-1.jpg

An after pic once everything was removed. The engine was too oily to use tape so I had to use paper towels just at the entrance threshold to make sure nothing got in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/P1040160-1.jpg

Here is a pic of everything removed on the tray underneath the engine. I made sure all the bolts were kept in their holes on each part to ensure I didn't mix them up come reassembly time.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/P1040159-1.jpg

Next chance at the engine, I'll make sure I get a buddy to help with the balancer. Then I'll start cleaning the engine to prepare for the cam swap and paint.

Kerry

[analyte]

Thanks for the compliments Kerry! Glad we got you taken care of :cheers: Im looking forward to seeing this running soon. Keep after it!, Your doing a great job!

Thanks Travis!! This has been a learning experience, but at least I'll know where everything goes when I'm down. :twothumbs


Kerry

[analyte]

Operation stripdown continues!!!:jawdrop:

Tonight, I was able to pull the rest of the interior out. It actually went pretty well as the inner shell was nice and clean with only slight surface rust on the package tray panel most likely from a leaky rear window at some time.

I have no before, but I have a couple of my "helper'. She asked to help tonight, and it was wonderful having someone help me get tools and hand parts to when removed.

Here she is adding the screws/nuts back onto the window mechanism to avoid losing them.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040162-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040179-1.jpg

All the side glass is out, and unfortunately laid across the trunk lid (on a oversize towel to avoid metal to metal contact). The windows are stacked with the door panels between them since they'll be replaced once painted.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040180-1.jpg

Here is the left rear interior was everything was stripped. The majority of the metal looks very clean considering....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040181-1.jpg

right rear interior very similar
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040182-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040183-1.jpg

When pulling the package tray, I notice a area in the right back corner that looked a little heavy on surface rust. I laid underneath and sure enough, some more rust that I'll have to note for my metal man. I suspect this will be easily fixed when the quarters are off.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040184-1.jpg

Overall, the metal I uncovered was in better condition that I anticipated. I expected some rust somewhere since my package tray was rippled. I just hope now I tagged and bagged well enough to remember where everything goes when the car is back from paint....

I couldn't find my tool for the exterior molding around the front/rear glass so I'll have to pick up one at the parts store tomorrow. I hope to get the rear glass pulled first followed by the front glass. I hope neither breaks!! The only thing left will be the dash and steering column before she's totally stripped inside. After that it's down to just a few trim/molding pieces on the exterior body.

Kerry

[analyte]

I got back at it earlier today determined to get that back glass out. I was able to accomplished my goal, but that darn adhesive everywhere under the molding. I scraped forever on this stuff before I got some wire in there to start sawing through.

Here is the glass once I got all the molding removed. I still don't understand how those clips work, but I kept messing with them until they detached from the molding.......
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040189-1.jpg

After slicing/cutting/sawing/complaining for a few hours the glass popped out with little effort on my part.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040190-1.jpg

Considering I had found the rust underneath the package try, I expected to see some rust in the window channel. What I found was solid metal all around the channel. I scrapped on it a while once the glass was out to get it as clean as possible for my inspection, and I came away smiling with only a little surface rust due to the molding trapping crud over the years.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040191-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040192-1.jpg

Based on my findings under the glass, I'm still on the lookout for where water got to the upper metal in the trunk. I'm starting to think I may find something under the quarter trim molding that surrounds a vinyl top. The car never had a vinyl top, but for some reason my car had the trim...I dunno, but we'll find out soon enough.

I'm way ahead of schedule on my project list. I'll pull the final trim pieces off the car, and then jump to the front glass and dash. If my progress stays on track I plan to test fit the engine and headers before going to my metal guy. At least then I'll have an idea of how well things will work together. I still haven't decided where to mount my ECU so that will need to be determined at some point in the near future.

Kerry

[analyte]

So I've got updates three days in a row!! That's an accomplishment for me.:smoke:

I worked on getting the windshield out today expecting a fight after the rear glass, but the front was very uneventful. I had some cutting wire due to reading online about some removals, and the windshield already had a crack in it so there was little pressure regarding breakage.

I used my handy dandy clip tool to remove the moldings, and this is where I started with my cutting wire.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040201-1.jpg

Here's a closeup of my wire...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040202-1.jpg

I went around the windshield fairly quickly, around 30 minutes, and it was out.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040203-1.jpg

I started looking closely for rust or any other issues, and this is the only one I found. The driver's dash at the base near the windshield has a spot at the edge. I also found what appear to be drain holes at each corner that I wasn't aware of.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040206-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040208-1.jpg

Since the glass went so quickly, I turned my attention to the dash. Here is a before pic.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040210-1.jpg

After pulling the column, I had removed the Autometer gauges and radio to limit the weight and wires as much as possible. Here it is removed and laid safely on the rear seat.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040211-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040212-1.jpg

I then removed the original A/C box and accessories before surveying the area for rust or any damage. It looks like I only have some surface rust along with discolored insulation. It definitely looks far worse on film than it really is.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/P1040213-1.jpg

I ran out of time today, had to help the daughter with a girl scouts project, so I'll have to leave the remaining wiring and brackets for later. I'll also have to work on the dash pad some more since 3 of the nuts are spinning so they'll have to be cut out. After that I'll be down to interior trim and headliner followed by the few remaining exterior trim.

Kerry

[tommycomfort]

Kerry,
You're all in now! Good job pushing foward.
Tom

[analyte]

LOL, I'm definitely that now!! I just hope I've tagged everything well enough to remember where everything goes.....

[analyte]

I spent most of the weekend pulling the final pieces of interior/exterior trim off the car. I don't plan on using the emblems or the trim for a vinyl top, even though my car never had a vinyl top, so hopefully they'll bring some money to use elsewhere. Once the car is gone for metal work, I'll group everything together to sale.

Once finished, I had a pretty good pile of trim. The parts I plan to use, like the drip rails and rear chrome strips, I plan to send them to Advanced Plating here in Nashville for refinishing.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120311_171201_410-1.jpg

Here's the rear trim free...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120311_171222_264-1.jpg

Afterwards, it was on to the drip rails. I was worried at first for fear of damaging the good original pieces, but it turned out to be a pretty easy job.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120311_171249_943-1.jpg

Right side off then left side. The original Lemonwood yellow is seen under the drip rails.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120311_172348_889-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120311_171242_17-1.jpg

I really hate to pull the headliner out. I had it installed around 15 years ago, and it still looks like new. To leave it in now though will just have it ruined by the media blaster.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20120311_172803_240-1.jpg

Kerry

[analyte]

Got a quick update. I got a call on Monday that my T56 was ready to be picked up so I went and got it today.

It's been rebuilt and fortified so I can mark that one off the "to do" list!!

Kerry

[ryeguy2006a]

Looking good. I have always thought that 66 & 69 were my favorite year Chevelles. Nice work and a good solid car to start with.

[analyte]

OK, time to provide an update since it's been awhile. Nothing picture worthy, but stuff that had to be done was completed.

I got the body stripped last year in March, and the car has basically been awaiting it's turn to get in the body shop. I found a guy that likes messing with the old iron, and decided to just wait on him. It should be going in by the end of the month so I'll need to do one last inventory of the parts before it goes.

On its first trip it will get metal and body work only. Once complete, the car will return for me to pre-build the non-stock items to ensure it's ready to go when painted to avoid screw-ups.

Metal to be replaced:

Full trunk pan and drop offs
L and R rear quarters
L and R lower fender patches
Smooth firewall


I'll update with pictures throughout the process as much as possible. While the body is being prepped, I'll start on the engine and wiring harness to get it ready to swap in. The T56 has been rebuilt and is ready to go.

If all my timeline holds, I'll ready to hit the PT events in 2nd Qtr. 2013.


Kerry

[73z-6sp]

ubub

[analyte]

Slower than I preferred, but I've got the renovations in the house completed that the wife wanted so my free time has increased.

Kerry

[analyte]

Well, I had some time to spend on the car today so I tired to make the most of it.

First thing I had to do was align the body on the frame. When I merged the two together before, i eyeballed it since I wasn't aware of the alignment holes. Once they were located, I had to shift it counter-clockwise to correct. Now the holes are perfect and the measurements are perfect as well. Here is the daughter helping me out, not quite Farrington" level but it's a start!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/541ea6cadb5e41359de0d6d0bef1da84_zps043f-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/541ea6ca-db5e-4135-9de0-d6d0bef1da84_zps043f2cbf.jpg.html)

Once that task was completed, I decided to finally open the Mast box and install the oil pan to test fit the engine for the first time.

I found this when I opened the Mast box, my pickup has alot of surface rust. Is that normal, and should I be concerned??
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130423_164700_zps0b165792-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130423_164700_zps0b165792.jpg.html)

I left the pickup off, and just installed the pan by itself. The pic came out a little blurry, but it's still a critical step.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130423_162322_zps9070e7e2-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130423_162322_zps9070e7e2.jpg.html)

Not long afterwards, it was sitting in place for me to step back and check it out.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130423_163058_zps7394068f-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130423_163058_zps7394068f.jpg.html)

Now it was time to check clearances; left side first, then right side, firewall, and then around the crossmember. The right side hits earlier than the left side, but I don't know where the lock is since I have nothing on for reference. Hopefully something will respond with a measurement from the frame to tire at lock for me to check. Nonetheless, I have the same issue as everyone else, but I'll wait until all the angles are set before contemplating a solution to the problem. I don't want to raise the engine so we'll have to see what develops.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130423_163452_zpsf15b2b87-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130423_163452_zpsf15b2b87.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130423_163523_zpsdc69215a-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130423_163523_zpsdc69215a.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130423_163546_zpsf6e74d1e-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130423_163546_zpsf6e74d1e.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130423_163559_zps0f089fa7-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130423_163559_zps0f089fa7.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130423_164425_zpscc6bd55e-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130423_164425_zpscc6bd55e.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130423_164519_zps61000fbe-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130423_164519_zps61000fbe.jpg.html)

Now it was time to try the headers. They are the discontinued Edelbrock LS headers for the early Chevelles. I've seen both good and bad feedback, like anything, so I'm eager to see how they fit my car.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130423_170433_zpsa32a59ab-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130423_170433_zpsa32a59ab.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130423_170439_zps08bd6189-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130423_170439_zps08bd6189.jpg.html)

It's difficult to see well, but they tuck up pretty good. They hang just over an inch lower than the Mast pan, but that's much better than the BBC headers I had prior to these. They actually have very good clearance between the frame, steering shaft, and suspension so I'm very pleased with how they fit. I did figure out that they have to be installed from the bottom since going from up top is not possible for me.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130423_170534_zps16e5f8b9-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130423_170534_zps16e5f8b9.jpg.html)

I had only one spot that was close. Here I only have about 1/8 of clearance without the gasket so I'll have to look into this boss to see if it's needed. If not, I'll trim it down to provide at least a 1/2 inch to make me feel better. The area for the starter looks to be pretty clear, but that will have to be checked once I have a starter to verify.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130423_170734_zps445d66f8-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130423_170734_zps445d66f8.jpg.html)

One final pic to showcase my efforts of the day. Very pleased with my progress, and I'm ready to get the bell delivered that I bought. Once I have the bell, I'll hook up the T56 and stab it in all together. That will allow me to work on my trans crossmember and build a new trans tunnel hopefully nicer than my last. I had the engine before at 4degrees down, but I really like having the trans hooked up to set angles.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130423_171408_zpsf499aa87-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130423_171408_zpsf499aa87.jpg.html)

I also picked up a complete Corvette accessory drive so once the car is gone, I'll get the brackets bead blasted and painted to complement my underhood theme. I'll also need to get a few other things going like the wiring harness, V/A, dash, etc. and such so that everything is ready to pre-build once the car is in primer.


Kerry

[rickpaw]

So did you do the cam swap?

Nice progress. I enjoy reading your thread and Tom Farrington's. Those early Chevelles are neat.

Tu

[analyte]

So did you do the cam swap?

Nice progress. I enjoy reading your thread and Tom Farrington's. Those early Chevelles are neat.

Tu

I actually ended up changing my mind on cams. Therefore, the cam I had got sold and I'll be buying another real soon. I found a set of real Z06 LS6 heads with the sodium valves that I scored cheap so I'm thinking about having them ported, and then buying a cam that complements.

I hope my updates continue to increase now that body/paint work is on the horizon.

Kerry

[analyte]

Another update from the weekend. now that I had test fit the engine and headers, I wanted to bolt up the bell and T56 to again check fit and verify the overall driveline angle.

After pulling the engine itself out, I added the T56 for test fit #2
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130428_195147_zps21c55cb5-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130428_195147_zps21c55cb5.jpg.html)

Once it was set in, it was time to add the angle finder and start seeing where it was at.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130428_211327_zpsa3773a0a-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130428_211327_zpsa3773a0a.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130428_211339_zps03e6bcf7-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130428_211339_zps03e6bcf7.jpg.html)

Here it is all bolted in, both motor mounts and trans crossmember. It's showing 4 degrees down, but the car isn't perfectly level so when I jacked up the rear to compensate it was at 3.5 degrees. Not a big difference, but different nonetheless
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130428_205837_zps79acc5dc-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130428_205837_zps79acc5dc.jpg.html)

Here is the closet spot; passenger side header by the bellhousing starter area. I'll clearance it a bit once removed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130428_210530_zpsd6c9865e-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130428_210530_zpsd6c9865e.jpg.html)

Once the angle was set at 3.5-4 degrees, I checked how well the headers tucked up under the floor pan
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130428_210949_zps0458f379-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130428_210949_zps0458f379.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130428_211025_zpsa72e66fd-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130428_211025_zpsa72e66fd.jpg.html)

After the clearance check, it was back to recheck the tie rod to oil pan:
Driver's side
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130428_204937_zpsff35d2f7-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130428_204937_zpsff35d2f7.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130428_204829_zpsbffd3b9a-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130428_204829_zpsbffd3b9a.jpg.html)

Left's side
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130428_204920_zpsecdeff3a-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130428_204920_zpsecdeff3a.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/IMG_20130428_204858_zps0a3e8703-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130428_204858_zps0a3e8703.jpg.html)

I still don't know how much of my steering is compromised by the oil pan. With less than two inches between the tire and frame it should be pretty close to full lock. I'll stab my steering column back in to see where I'm at along with clearance around the steering shaft itself.

Doesn't seem like a lot, but I'm pleased with what I've see thus far. There appears to be plenty of starter clearance, though it could be tougher to change with the headers on if needed. I'll fit up the Corvette accessory drive next that I pick up just to get an overall feel for the fitment in the engine bay. Once that is done, I'll start on the new trans tunnel before pulling everything back out again.

Kerry

[analyte]

I was back at it again tonight working on tie rod to oil pan clearance. I did some searching online, and I found that the conversion mounts that say 1in setback aren't exactly the same. I made a call to Tom Farrington since he's using Hooker mounts to bench engineer the differences between the Hooker and Edelbrock LS mounts. It appears the Hooker mounts lift the engine about 3/8 of an inch and move it back around 1/2 more than the Edelbrock plates. Tom also mentioned that he did significant grinding on the Mast pan for more tie rod clearance which appears to be a direction I will follow. Thanks Tom!!!

That being said, I wanted to avoid lifting the engine so as to keep my driveline angles in check so I decided to first test moving the engine back closer to the firewall. I started by unbolting the frame mounts and laying tape in case I need to make marks for new holes to drill. Once settled, they were in this position which was around 3/4 inches back.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_20130430_220624_zps1143e306-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130430_220624_zps1143e306.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_20130430_220635_zps8a0a9141-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130430_220635_zps8a0a9141.jpg.html)

In the original location per the Edelbrock plates, the block was two inches away from the firewall. Once the engine was moved back, I was around 1 3/8 from the firewall. Still plenty of room to remove the bolts for hoist among other things such as grounds. I still had good clearance around the T56 and the headers should still have plenty of clearance per my quick test fit.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_20130430_220711_zps8d29f7d7-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130430_220711_zps8d29f7d7.jpg.html)

A this position, the left tie rod just touched the oil pan and slid under when the steering arm hit the stop. The right tie rod hit the oil pan with around 1/2 left before the stop. The move backwards made a huge difference as I was 1+ inches away from the stop on both sides when hitting the oil pan before. I'll check both headers tomorrow night for clearance. If good, I'll likely pull everything back out so I can grind on the oil pan for additional clearance. From a quick look, I'm betting I can likely gain around 1/2 to 5/8 inches of clearance easily.

Through it all, I kept the driveline angle at close to 4 degrees down to insure I only changed one thing at a time.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_20130430_2209421_zps946c8555-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130430_2209421_zps946c8555.jpg.html)


Thanks again to Tom for the informative call!! Talking with him through the process really helped.

Kerry

[analyte]

I took a break from playing with the engine to square up the rear. No big updates, but progress none the less on the list before it goes for metal work.

Prior to today, I had aligned the body on the frame, but didn't think about checking the rear axle. It was about 1 inch closer to the lip on the passenger side so I had to adjust the UCA to recenter the axle. It actually took longer to get it jacked up than to adjust the center point.

While playing under the car, I had a visit from the FedEx guy so that was a wonderful surprise on a Saturday!!

I finally scored a set of 243 heads for my LQ9. I have been searching on/off for a while, and I just happened to luck into these. They are the real deal LS6 heads off a 2004 Z06 with the hollow exhaust valves. I really didn't need the fancy valves, but the price was cheaper than other standard 243 heads I've come across..:seizure:

My plan is to send these to AI or TEA for porting and a valve job before putting the engine together.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_20130504_125959_zpsfe94787f-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130504_125959_zpsfe94787f.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_20130504_130026_zps47507115-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130504_130026_zps47507115.jpg.html)


Kerry

[Zanie]

Great progress!
Please ditch the concrete blocks, that is not a safe way to support your car!
build yourself some cribbing out of 2x4s
https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?45721-Dse-Stands

[analyte]

Great progress!
Please ditch the concrete blocks, that is not a safe way to support your car!
build yourself some cribbing out of 2x4s
https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?45721-Dse-Stands

LOL, I promise that all four aren't on blocks. I have ramps on the back opposite each other to eliminate forward/backward movement. The blocks are just there to make it easier to slide the engine/tranny in place in one piece.

I do want to make some of those 2x4 stands..

[analyte]

Wow, two days and two updates. I'm on a roll...lol

I worked on engine placement again today. I received a drawing from Tom F. to compare his Holley plates to my Edlebrock. The Holley plates definitely moves the engine back 1/4 in further and 1/4 higher than the Edelbrock plates. Based on this knowledge, I moved the engine back and forth, and the tie rods still touched the oil pan even with the head less than one inch from the block.

I marked where the tie rods touched, and I'm still trying to figure out why Mast kicked out pan in this area on both sides.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_20130505_161953_zpscc134ca8-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130505_161953_zpscc134ca8.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_20130505_162021_zpsaf0ddb37-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130505_162021_zpsaf0ddb37.jpg.html)

Based on my efforts, I took a page from the Farrington playbook and planned to start grinding on the oil pan to provide clearance for the tie rods to pass. Here's a better pick of where I'll be grinding. Again, it's easy to see that the tie rods hit right on the area that kicks out to the sides.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_20130505_180248_zps04c19b19-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130505_180248_zps04c19b19.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_20130505_180255_zps4cf18ef1-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130505_180255_zps4cf18ef1.jpg.html)

I got it stabbed back in and the left tie rod just touches about 1/8 inch before the stop and slides under with minimal fuss. The right tie rod hits at 1/4 inch before the stop. I roughly gained about 1/4 inch on both sides by grinding on the pan, but I must also say that I smoothed the tie rods as well to remove the casting mark which gained maybe 1/16 at best. Since moving the engine back didn't resolve the issue, I tried added 1/4 inch shims under the frame mounts to simulate the hooker plates. That ended up being the final fix I needed to resolve the problem. I didn't want to move the engine up, but 1/4 only matches the Hooker plates and it saves me $100 by not having to buy a set.

After getting the engine part done. I cut the mount off my trans crossmember so as to start fabrication of a new one to maintain the proper driveline angle. This part went easy.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_20130505_170619_zpsd7d8e913-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130505_170619_zpsd7d8e913.jpg.html)


I'll have to pick up some boxed steel this week to build my new crossmember. I continue to make progress prior to body work which feels pretty good.

Kerry

[tommycomfort]

Great progress Kerry! Just like you I hate to compromise on anything, but that seems to be the common theme on A-body LS conversion pans. Glad I could help out in a small way.

[analyte]

Another update on my current "project"

I had planned to send my engine harness out to be reworked or buy a new harness outright, but I decided to take a stab at it as it will help me become more familliar with the LS sensors and fuse/relays. Therefore, in an attempt to get ahead on the prebuild, I decided to start my harness rework while the engine is in the car to help with wire placements.

This is what I started with on Monday:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_20130504_121926_zps27317b27-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130504_121926_zps27317b27.jpg.html)

And this was where it was later that evening after all the wires were tagged per the pin assignments:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_20130506_220955_zpsa67419f7-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130506_220955_zpsa67419f7.jpg.html)

Over the next couple of nights I was pulling wires that weren't needed for a stand alone harness. I tagged some of the connectors as needed, and also made notes as to what was missing. I still have a few to pull, but stopping tonight since I have early meetings tomorrow morning.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_20130508_215646_zps8818b67a-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130508_215646_zps8818b67a.jpg.html)

Here is the current pile of wires pulled completely out. I still have about 10-12 more that need to be completely removed from the harness that I'll get to later:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/IMG_20130508_215652_zps854dcd15-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/IMG_20130508_215652_zps854dcd15.jpg.html)

Once I get close to a "test fit", I'll have to pick up a set of EV1 injector plugs since I'm using an LS6 intake. I'm also missing knock sensor plugs and one O2 connector, but the rest all seem to be here.

Kerry

[analyte]

Great progress Kerry! Just like you I hate to compromise on anything, but that seems to be the common theme on A-body LS conversion pans. Glad I could help out in a small way.

Thanks Tom!! The Farrington family has been far more helpful than you think. I still have the pics of your car that I took at the Nashville event that I refer to even now for reference.

BTW, I dropped the drawing back in the mail so it's headed back your way. It really helped me figure out how to proceed.

Kerry

[analyte]

Well, the car is back at the house. My guy that was going to do the body work is going in for knee surgery so he won't be able to do it for 10-12 weeks. He wanted it out of his garage for liability reasons so I'm starting over again.

I got a few names of people to talk to about doing the work. I actually have one coming over Monday morning to inspect the car, but not sure when he could start on it either. If I can get the metal work done, I may consider painting it myself after the prebuild just to speed things along if time allows. I really want to get this car painted this year so as to start assembling. I'm so ready to start hitting some events.

Stay tuned!!

Kerry

[cactuss4]

oh thats unfortunate. But as everything you will overcome, adapt.. Love to see a car finally that was not a total rust case, all other projects I've read have given me nightmares!!

Thanks for sharing

Tory

[analyte]

oh thats unfortunate. But as everything you will overcome, adapt.. Love to see a car finally that was not a total rust case, all other projects I've read have given me nightmares!!

Thanks for sharing

Tory

I totally agree just a setback but frustrating nonetheless. I'm confident that things will work out in the end.

Kerry

[analyte]

I met with another guy this morning. I'll have to wait another 3-4 weeks, but he should be able to start on it then.

The body shop stuff is always the toughest......

[Dutch455]

Hi, love your project! What was the original tyre size you had on the BBS rims?
And did you had any troubles with putting rims on the Hub/Wheelbolts?
Cause Chevy is 5x4.75 and BMW is 5x4.77?


Greetings from Europe!

[analyte]

Hi, love your project! What was the original tyre size you had on the BBS rims?
And did you had any troubles with putting rims on the Hub/Wheelbolts?
Cause Chevy is 5x4.75 and BMW is 5x4.77?


Greetings from Europe!

Thanks for the props!! Much appreciated!!

The tire sizes currently on the wheels are 235/35/19 and 265/30/19 which is good enough for just rolling around. Once complete, I'll be running 255/40/19 and 285/35/19 which will give me more sidewall for a better stance.

No issues with mounting as the backspacing was great for this setup on the Chevelle. You are correct about the Chevy/BMW backspacing being close but different. To avoid possible issues on the autox or roadcourse I had both my axles and hubs drilled for dual bolt patterns. That way I'll be able to use the correct spacing regardless of what wheel I choose now or later.

Thanks again,

Kerry

[jamier2]

I'm at the stage on mine where I need to fab up / modify my trans mount as well. Looking forward to seeing what you do to fit yours.

[analyte]

I'm at the stage on mine where I need to fab up / modify my trans mount as well. Looking forward to seeing what you do to fit yours.

Not totally decided yet, but I wasn't real happy with how the original crossmember fit with the larger T56. I could get some steel and make L-brackets to mount it on each side, but by the time I fab everything it may be easier to just start from scratch.

Kerry

[jamier2]

Not totally decided yet, but I wasn't real happy with how the original crossmember fit with the larger T56. I could get some steel and make L-brackets to mount it on each side, but by the time I fab everything it may be easier to just start from scratch.

Kerry

I got lucky on mine. I just slid my crossmember back about 6-8" and rewelded the mount tab. Exhaust may be tight but I think it'll work.

[analyte]

Milestone reached today. The Chevelle has left for metal work!!! The job is expected to take 4-6 weeks to complete.

Work to be done:
Both quarter skins
Full trunk pan
Both dropoffs
Both lower fender patches
Firewall will be flattened
Fill holes from exterior trim that will not be reused
Patch small pinholes on front drivers floor pan
Locate/weld studs for Vintage Air box
Weld in new trans tunnel for T56
Assemble body panels and set gaps

I'm really excited to see all this work completed, and I plan to stop by weekly to help when possible and take pictures. There is still a lot of work to be done, but this lets me know progress is being made however slow.....lol

Loaded on the trailer....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/Ontometalwork_zpsd56357de-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/Ontometalwork_zpsd56357de.jpg.html)


Kerry

[tommycomfort]

Exciting news Kerry!

[analyte]

I stopped by the shop today to pick up my wheels now that the car was on jackstands for the work to be done. While there I was shown a couple of areas that were discovered with serious issues, but he had already pointed them out as concerning so it wasn't a total surprise. I snapped a few pictures, and I plan to stop back in on Friday to drop off the quarter extensions and cowl panel.

Right side shot of the initial grind work:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/20131021_172432_zpsbb90e2b0-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/201310d21_172432_zpsbb90e2b0.jpg.html)

1st discovery; the passenger side rocker had been damaged in the past. The passenger door was found with pull holes through it so this wasn't unexpected. This will be cut out and replaced the correct way:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/20131021_172525_zps37c3ce0e-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131021_172525_zps37c3ce0e.jpg.html)

Left side shot with no real surprises so far....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/20131021_1725141_zpsabf670b3-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131021_1725141_zpsabf670b3.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/20131021_172452_zps3f0cf2fe-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131021_172452_zps3f0cf2fe.jpg.html)

We found some weirdness on both rear quarters. They've never been replaced, but they had been reworked. We wondered it they were mis-hung when new and had to be reworked in the factory:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/20131021_1727572_zpsb82c9ea0-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131021_1727572_zpsb82c9ea0.jpg.html)

2nd discovery was more a confirmation than anything. The filler panel between the rear glass and decklid had no natural curve. Once he got into it, we started to see why. Another hack rust repair that will now be repaired correctly. An easy 1/2in of bondo....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/20131021_172441_zpseae775c2-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131021_172441_zpseae775c2.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/20131021_172535_zps672af685-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131021_172535_zps672af685.jpg.html)

I'll continue to update as I take more pictures. I expected hidden things to be found. Thankfully, I was prepared and ready to do it right.

Kerry

[analyte]

I Stopped by the shop again today, and a lot has happened since Monday. I'm really excited with the progress, and I look forward to each and every visit.

The Chevelle is quite drafty on the right rear side. The quarter has been cut off, and touch up work has been done on the outer and inner wheelhouses. The trim holes on the outer sail panel have also been welded shut.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/20131025_122208_zps6022b77e-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131025_122208_zps6022b77e.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/20131025_122238_zps7236ec8b-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131025_122238_zps7236ec8b.jpg.html)

The new trunk pan and new drop-offs are in!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/20131025_122229_zps8fb47302-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131025_122229_zps8fb47302.jpg.html)

On the left side, the quarter has been trimmed to allow the new drop-off to be installed plus to start work on the outer
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/20131025_122254_zpsf46b8e0b-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131025_122254_zpsf46b8e0b.jpg.html)

Found more hack quality patchwork on the rear sail panels. A new rear filler from OPGI has been ordered since it seems to be the only panel with the original shaped
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/20131025_122325_zpsa1ccef38-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131025_122325_zpsa1ccef38.jpg.html)

The passenger door is in bad shape. We found the damaged rocker before, but the door skin itself is in terrible shape. It has no less than 33 holes though the middle plus several more under the lower character line. It's so bad and warped, I'm now on a search for the best replacement skin. AMD???
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/20131025_122347_zps4d6c98cb-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131025_122347_zps4d6c98cb.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/20131025_122402_zps6723d766-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131025_122402_zps6723d766.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/20131025_123126_zpsfe6bf747-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131025_123126_zpsfe6bf747.jpg.html)

The lower windshield area has been cleaned and ground down so as to replace the lower channel.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/20131025_122417_zpsa461dd07-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131025_122417_zpsa461dd07.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/20131025_122427_zps4cf3ba5d-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131025_122427_zps4cf3ba5d.jpg.html)


Stay tuned!!

[analyte]

New parts has been ordered based on my last visit:

Door skin from AMD
Rear Filler from OPGI

Both should deliver sometime next week. I'll be stopping by again next Friday so hopefully I'll be able to drop off the new parts.

I'll be in Michigan all week for work so I've asked the wife to stop by and take pictures for me in my absence. Hopefully, shell follow through...lol


Kerry

[analyte]

My lovely wife and daughter stopped by the shop today to check on the Chevelle's progress and take a few pictures for us. In addition, the door skin from AMD was delivered today and the new rear filler from OPGI is expected Friday. She used her cell so the pics are smaller than usual so I apologize in advance if things are difficult to see.

The right quarter skin is back in place and welded up for good. Here is a shot of the repaired wheel wells along with the full shot.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/2013103095154057_zps2f60eb71-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/2013103095154057_zps2f60eb71.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/20131030_154046_zps1172340e-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131030_154046_zps1172340e.jpg.html)

The left quarter has been removed and the new skin is being fitted. The inner surfaces were in very good shape so all was cleaned up and shot with primer to protect everything.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/2013103095154153_zps6cbaf8b5-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/2013103095154153_zps6cbaf8b5.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/2013103095154212_zps242db339-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/2013103095154212_zps242db339.jpg.html)

For breaks in between the quarter/trunk work, he's been working the firewall to smooth it off and make everything clean. Several more are needed, but it's coming along nicely.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/2013103095154117_zpsadd72637-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/2013103095154117_zpsadd72637.jpg.html)


If all the parts are received by Friday as expected, I'll drop them off on Monday and take more pictures.

Kerry

[Thenovaguy]

Moving right along.... Love the build. My 66 needs some metal work also. Im planning on having to write a large check to get it fixed right. Keep the pics coming good stuff!

T.J.

[analyte]

My parts arrived on Friday as expected so I had to check them out before taking them to the shop tomorrow. I didn't want to take damaged parts so as to avoid any return issues, but everything checks out fine so I was concerned for no reason. My daughter was even willing to help out since she's excited about the continued progress on the Chevelle.

The AMD RH door skin looks great. The body lines look pretty crisp.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131103_204825_zpsa0e52dd7-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131103_204825_zpsa0e52dd7.jpg.html)

I opened the box with the OPGI rear filler, and it also went through shipping without damage. The only problem is that I forgot to take a picture before I wrapped it back up. To make it more realistic, Morgan offered to be in the picture for an action shot of her inspecting the wrapped package. Enjoy!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131103_205040_zpsec676008-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131103_205040_zpsec676008.jpg.html)


So, no big news compared to other updates, but all of this is very exciting to us. Hopefully there will be new progress on the car tomorrow when I stop by.

Kerry

[chevy4life]

kerry, absolutly love the wheel choice! they look mean. looks like they got a lot on their hands at the body shop lol. looking good!!
anthony

[analyte]

kerry, absolutly love the wheel choice! they look mean. looks like they got a lot on their hands at the body shop lol. looking good!!
anthony

Thanks Anthony!!

I always loved the mesh BBS wheels on the BMW's so I wanted to try them out on the Chevelle. They give it a great look, and they stand out by being different.

We've definitely uncovered more than we were expecting at the shop, but I can't wait to see the final result in the spring!!

Kerry

[chevy4life]

exactly, my vette wheels arnt too different. that look definitely makes the car. well atleast you know whats there and whats been done. hopefully will never have to worry about it again! any color choice yet?

[analyte]

The Chevelle is originally Lemonwood yellow, but the daughter didn't like it being so pale. Therefore, we together decided on my favorite BMW color, Dakar Yellow II.

Here's a pic:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/Dakar_Yellow_BMW_M3__zpse39f9577-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/Dakar_Yellow_BMW_M3__zpse39f9577.jpg.html)


Kerry

[analyte]

I stopped by the shop today to drop off the new sheetmetal. While there I had to snap a few progress pictures.

The metal portion of the smooth firewall is complete. It will need to be worked up before paint, but it looks really good already!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131104_142755_zps46f10027-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131104_142755_zps46f10027.jpg.html)

Moving from the front to the back, the new trans tunnel for the T56 is going in well. Looks very nice from the firewall back. Inside, it looks bigger than the old modified tunnel, but the tape measure says it's the same width. Big improvement over what I had.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131104_143406_zps2eef800b-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131104_143406_zps2eef800b.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131104_142805_zps7f0b224a-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131104_142805_zps7f0b224a.jpg.html)

The left outer wheel well is now fixed so the quarter should be going on this week.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131104_143629_zps4aa28c38-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131104_143629_zps4aa28c38.jpg.html)

We continue to look for bad metal to repair. Here the trunk lid had some spot rust on the corners so it was cut and replaced with new metal. The rear panel was taken down to metal to check for anymore rust before filling the old trim holes.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131104_142946_zps2e9de7be-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131104_142946_zps2e9de7be.jpg.html)

Again, very pleased with the progress though I am surprised at the level of crappy rust repairs we've found and had to fix correctly. I'm glad I saved for a while before taking this step!!

Kerry

[analyte]

No real updates yet. I wasn't able to get by the shop on Friday since we went out of town for my daughter's swim meet.

That said, I did order the lower windshield channel since I forget to get it with other metal I had to order. It's coming from AMD and should be here on Wednesday. So far I've been more impressed that expected with the repro metal I've had to purchase. Based on some of the reviews I've read, we've been lucky!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/AMD4653464_zps0ee870fe-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/AMD465-3464_zps0ee870fe.jpg.html)

Kerry

[chevy4life]

awesome progress kerry! shes almost there!

[analyte]

I stopped by today and progress continues....

Here is the rocker section that was removed/replaced.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131111_163718_zps94129bf9-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131111_163718_zps94129bf9.jpg.html)

The rear filler has been removed, and a few sections were cut out of the support structure. The areas will be replaced with hand formed metal since a full replacement was deemed unnecessary. It will still get blasted and painted to make sure it makes it for many years to come.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131111_164108_zps8993765d-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131111_164108_zps8993765d.jpg.html)

The new trans tunnel is complete. It's a work of art compared to the previous job that I actually will hate to cover with carpet.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131111_164537_zpse7d643b2-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131111_164537_zpse7d643b2.jpg.html)

The right quarter has been replaced, and it didn't take a lot of reworking to get it to fit right.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131111_164622_zpsfd9f8f9c-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131111_164622_zpsfd9f8f9c.jpg.html)

The new passenger door skin is in place. The panel fit so good it just about fell into place all by itself. The metal gauge is very close to original, and the body lines are really good. Great job AMD!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131111_164649_zps44f6150f-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131111_164649_zps44f6150f.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131111_164659_zps660bb4c9-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131111_164659_zps660bb4c9.jpg.html)

This phase of the build should be complete by the end of next week. Once home I'll get the engine and trans back in place to finish the trans crossmember and other small tasks on the list. After that, it will be stripped the rest of the way and put in epoxy so as to begin final body work and sanding.

Kerry

[analyte]

I dropped off my fenders at the shop today so they could be patched up and all the holes filled used for trim and antenna. Not much had happened since yesterday afternoon, but it was early so no big deal.

That said, I did get the lower windshield channel in today from AMD. It arrived damage free so I'll have the wife drop it off tomorrow.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131112_215228_zps67b97965-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131112_215228_zps67b97965.jpg.html)

Another item I picked up was a set of Hooker LS mounts. I've been using the Edelbrock thus far, but I compared them to what Tom Farrington was using and I liked the position better. The Hooker's will raise the engine about 1/4 inch while maintaining the same position relative to the firewall. This will help with both tie rod clearance and header clearance so they tuck up more.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131112_214036_zpseeb4dcd9-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131112_214036_zpseeb4dcd9.jpg.html)



Kerry

[analyte]

I stopped by the shop again to drop off the lower windshield channel, This will likely be the next to last visit as my next will be with a trailer. This phase is almost finished.

First off, this is the new AMD lower channel laying below the existing channel so everyone may see how much is replaced. This should answer the question from earlier.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131114_161445_zpsd7bf1833-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131114_161445_zpsd7bf1833.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131114_161458_zps0aceb60d-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131114_161458_zps0aceb60d.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131114_161519_zpsc434c306-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131114_161519_zpsc434c306.jpg.html)

This is a picture of the patch on the lower right fender with a thick bondo line so as to match the old door skin that was built up as well. Not shown are the filled trim holes at the front and around the wheel opening.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131114_161538_zps2f3da4aa-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131114_161538_zps2f3da4aa.jpg.html)

Here is the patch on the lower left fender. Like the other side, the trim and wheel opening holes were closed up and smoothed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131114_161550_zpsb82daeeb-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131114_161550_zpsb82daeeb.jpg.html)

Here the stock antenna hole was closed up. I'll be using an hidden antenna under the dash since it provides a cleaner look to the exterior.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131114_161731_zps0540ec75-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131114_161731_zps0540ec75.jpg.html)

The new rear filler panel behind the glass is in, and it fit very well. The OPGI is indeed a nice piece with the correct contours.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131114_161742_zpsfb20467e-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131114_161742_zpsfb20467e.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131114_161800_zps95977472-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131114_161800_zps95977472.jpg.html)

I set the right rear extension in place to see how well it fit the character lines and overall shape of the new quarter. It will need some body work to make perfect, as will the other side, but I'm happy with the initial fit.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131114_161838_zpsd9d871c1-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131114_161838_zpsd9d871c1.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131114_161852_zpsa9d9a7c3-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131114_161852_zpsa9d9a7c3.jpg.html)

That's it for today. If the weather is nice next Tuesday, I'll bring her home for final sanding/paint removal and get her in PPG epoxy. She hasn't been one color for a long time....lol

Kerry

[analyte]

No new pics today, but I dropped off the V/A box to have studs welded to the inner firewall. He was working on the lower windshield channel so that should be completed today.

Weather for Tuesday looks good to bring her home.

In a way its kinda funny, the only panels not replaced were the roof, floor, and left door skin.

Kerry

[Munssey]

Excellent progress. You've got the right approach! Address all the underpinnings now and be very happy later on. Keep up the great updates.

[analyte]

Excellent progress. You've got the right approach! Address all the underpinnings now and be very happy later on. Keep up the great updates.
Thanks for the push. This site really keeps me motivated.

BTW, love the Falcon!!

[analyte]

The day has come to pick up the Chevelle, but I first need to close out the last two items on the punch list:

Installed lower windshield channel. Another very nice panel from AMD that fit correctly.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131118_164511_zps3e01a97f-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131118_164511_zps3e01a97f.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131118_164500_zps9768bfc9-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131118_164500_zps9768bfc9.jpg.html)

Here we welded studs for the future Vintage Air case. The bracket was set in place to verify all was where we needed it. It is square, the angle of my pic is actually off..lol
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131119_200743_zpsd6308b77-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131119_200743_zpsd6308b77.jpg.html)


This concludes all the metal work from the shop. The punch list grew while it was there, but I'm walking away knowing it was done correctly.

Kerry

[analyte]

Today I stopped by with the wheels to bring her home!!!:headbang:

Before loading her on the trailer, we made one last pass through the punch list to verify all was done and I was happy. I'm really pleased with the work he did on my car, and I'll definitely be throwing his name out when appropriate.


Without further delay's, here she is back home though still on the trailer since it provided better lighting for pics:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131118_164429_zpsef5f3f20-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131118_164429_zpsef5f3f20.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131118_164443_zpseb92a76d-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131118_164443_zpseb92a76d.jpg.html)

Once in the garage, I had to try out my new flap wheel and Dynabrade DA. Using 80grit on both, the paint came off pretty well. I stripped some off the door and side cowl just to get an idea of how long it will take. I plan to strip the last of the topcoat off the car before sanding the weld primer still present prior to spraying DPLF epoxy. The quarters are EDP so I'll just scuff them rather than strip it off.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131119_100326_zpsa4198a66-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131119_100326_zpsa4198a66.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131118_205135_zps2740b8f9-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131118_205135_zps2740b8f9.jpg.html)

This evening I picked up some more sandpaper and worked on the door some more. It's been awhile since I stripped paint, but I do remember that I like painting and sanding better than removing completely. I should have it finished by the weekend. After that I'll start on the deck and roof.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131118_205125_zps0a712af7-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131118_205125_zps0a712af7.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131119_200726_zps02253ce6-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131119_200726_zps02253ce6.jpg.html)

Again, I'm very pleased with all the work done. I looked at them close with lights, and they will take little to no filler to get ready for paint. I have a little work on the right quarter to tail light extension, but I'll first get out my hammer and dolley before looking at filler.

The hinges appears to have no sag, but I plan to rebuild them anyway. They will be taken care of when the doors come off for jamb sanding and painting. The fenders, inner fenders, cowl panel, and extensions will go to get media blasted just to save time so it's all in epoxy as soon as possible.

Kerry

[Munssey]

how many times have you gone out to the garage and peeked at it tonight? ;)

[analyte]

how many times have you gone out to the garage and peeked at it tonight? ;)

At least a dozen....lol

[renegade6]

That was a record time to get it out of the body shop.

[analyte]

That was a record time to get it out of the body shop.

No doubt. I wish I could share all my connections with you, but I have none. LOL

[analyte]

Not a huge update, but I'm making progress. My Dynabrade fitting was stripped out just enough to cause a leak so I wasn't able to accomplish much with it initially. Ten dollars later I had a good inlet fitting, and I was able to move forward on stripping the remaining paint on the car.

My combination of a flap wheel and 80grit on the DA is working, but it's never as fast as I want. The picture is after a couple of hours so it still needs some work, but the old paint (especially the primer) is not coming off willingly.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131122_164335_zpsc22518d4-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131122_164335_zpsc22518d4.jpg.html)

Based on my limited time in the evenings, I'll finish the door and roof myself. I'll use my mini blaster to strip the hinge and jamb areas. The rest; i.e. fenders, hood, and deck will be media blasted to save time. I'm scheduled to drop them off the first week in December.


Kerry

[renegade6]

Have you tried using the clean and strip discs? I've had really good luck with them.

[analyte]

Have you tried using the clean and strip discs? I've had really good luck with them.

No I haven't, are they made by 3M. I'm willing to try anything at this point to this along at a faster pace.

[renegade6]

3M makes them as well as Norton. The are about the same and the Norton ones are way cheaper.

[analyte]

3M makes them as well as Norton. The are about the same and the Norton ones are way cheaper.

That's good to know. I''ll swing by the paint store on Monday. Thanks!!

[analyte]

Even with swim practice and basketball games for the daughter, I was still able to find some time to work on the Chevelle.

I found a few of the generic clean and strip disks so I picked them up to try out. I’m happy to say that they do a much better job than flap disks. I’m still following them up with a few passes from the DA, but this makes it a little easier. (Thanks renegade6!!!!)

Well, the door skin is finished. I still need to finish the jambs, but the exterior is good.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131124_174234_zps940c8c1c-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131124_174234_zps940c8c1c.jpg.html)

Once the skin was finished, I moved toward the roof via the a-post. I ended up getting the left half stripped completely.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131124_174238_zps1b25e3ef-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131124_174238_zps1b25e3ef.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131124_174246_zps929b2b82-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131124_174246_zps929b2b82.jpg.html)

After making some progress on the roof, I decided to work on the door jamb before stopping. I wanted to get an idea how difficult/easy it will be. This part stripped with little fuss.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131124_174259_zps4445639b-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131124_174259_zps4445639b.jpg.html)

After all this, I'm still surprised at how tough the primer is to remove. The two basecoat layers aren't bad, but that primer is something else.....

Kerry

[analyte]

Not an update on the car itself, but I did get my air filtration setup installed. The DA and spot blaster the fast few days has kept the compressor running enough to generate some water so I felt it was time to do it right with painting in my future.

I looked at all the options from Devilbiss such as the all in 1, but I felt it might not be enough for my plans. Therefore, I ended up with a 3 step Speedaire setup, pre-filter, oil filter, and 4lb of desiccant. I'll put it to the test and report back with my results.

I've got to get some mounts to secure it to the wall, but here is a good picture of it assembled.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/20131125_160222_zpscfb47f37-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131125_160222_zpscfb47f37.jpg.html)

Kerry

[analyte]

Big progress on the car now that I don't have to worry about moisture after extended sessions. The Speedaire syztem works great, and kept my air totally dry through my 6 hours today.

Now on to the car. The roof is now completely stripped, and the metal looks really good.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

After the roof was completed, I then finished up the top of the quarters. The decklid will be removed and media blasted.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

The only areas left are the door jambs, trunk ditch, and firewall/cowl. Afterwards I'll rebuild the hinges before shooting the epoxy.

Kerry

[ekmxryda]

Lookin good!
Just a reminder to open up the bottom drain on your compressor before doing any paint. These inline filters are a good backup too.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=SHA+8100

[analyte]

Lookin good!
Just a reminder to open up the bottom drain on your compressor before doing any paint. These inline filters are a good backup too.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=SHA+8100

Indeed, I'm trying to get in the habit of draining both one after the other.

[analyte]

Small update from today since the weather was nice to use my spot blaster outside. I'll get the doors pulled this week to finish up the jambs and firewall. Once the hinges are rebuilt, the shell will be ready for epoxy.

I got the majority of the firewall blasted before running out of media. I'll get another bag this week to finish it up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/20131201_162157_zpsc631c1fb-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131201_162157_zpsc631c1fb.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/20131201_162214_zps930b9d76-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131201_162214_zps930b9d76.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/20131201_162218_zps5075e2ff-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131201_162218_zps5075e2ff.jpg.html)


Kerry

[analyte]

I got the hinge rebuild kits in along with a new cage nut to replace on that broke. Weather isn't looking great this weekend so hopefully time in the garage will be the result.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/20131205174242_zps175894ed-1.png (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/2013-12-05174242_zps175894ed.png.html)

Kerry

[analyte]

I'm so glad to have this update, these "screw" bolts were kicking my butt.

I finally got the driver's door removed so I could finish with the paint removal and rebuild the hinges. I first had to order a #4 phillips bit with a socket, but it was too long out of the box. I got it cut down so I could use it with a 5/16 wrench or a 1/4 ratchet. Four of the six came out with no issue, but the other two were stripped long ago. I ended up having to pull the welder out to weld a small nut on the bolts so I could back them out. To say it was difficult in a small space would be an understatement, but 3 hours later the door was removed. I'll work on the passenger door tomorrow, and I hope it's not as difficult....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/20131214_215719_zps9b97c935-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131214_215719_zps9b97c935.jpg.html)

Kerry

[Motown 454]

Its coming out great.

[analyte]

This update was delayed as I worked late last night and I traveled for business today. Nonetheless, great progress was made.

The passenger door is off, and it was easy. So glad it didn't put up a fight similar to the other door. I'll be ordering new screw bolts for all since they're cheap and I don't want to chance stripping an old bolt when reinstalling.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/20131215_150350_zps6cef995e-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131215_150350_zps6cef995e.jpg.html)

Once the doors were off, I started pulling the pins to rebuild the hinges. I don't have a vise so I left them on the car to remove the pins. Surprisingly, none of my pins were staked on the bottom like I had read they should be. They were still in there solid so no chance of them coming out accidently.

In order; left upper, right upper, left lower
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/20131215_164501_zpsc7e45ae1-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131215_164501_zpsc7e45ae1.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/20131215_163324_zps9a8fd5ae-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131215_163324_zps9a8fd5ae.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/20131215_194356_zps0be90eef-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20131215_194356_zps0be90eef.jpg.html)

The bushings have been removed so I'll pull the hinges off the body and blast them clean. I still have the right lower to disassemble, and then it will be removed and blasted. Once cleaned up, I'll be taking the lower hinges to a machine shop to have the roller removed and the new hole drilled for the new roller. I don't have a drill press so I don't want to take a chance on not drilling square so it's cheap insurance to have someone with the correct tools do it.

Now that the doors and hinges will be off, I'll finish the spot blasting I have left this Saturday since the weather should be nicer outside and plan on shooting the epoxy on Sunday or Monday.

Kerry

[analyte]

One question for all the followers...

Should I remove the ecoat on the quarters or just scuff and shoot. I've checked them closely and the coating is good so I have no fear of rust underneath, but I want to see what others are doing.

Thanks,
Kerry

[analyte]

Updates have been slow through the holidays due to family time and just flat out crappy weather. I continue to spot blast and DA old paint and surface rust, and I've been spending the majority of my time inside the car making sure the floors and firewall will have good adhesion to the epoxy.

I'm close, but I don't plan to spray the epoxy for another couple of weeks as my painter wants to see the bare metal beforehand. I'm on his list and he estimated today that my turn will come in March. Therefore, I've got to get this thing epoxied so I can assemble the main parts before paint in an attempt to avoid as many issues as possible once it's in color.

The reason for the update today is to share my Xmas present from the wife and daughter. I've been wanting to get a rendering done to verify the end result will match my vision. My wife kept asking me to put it off, and I found out why during the holidays. The wife got me a copy of HOK Digital Paint Booth so she could do the render for me. The color may not be exactly BMW Dakar Yellow, but it looks pretty close on my monitor (I have the OEM color standard to prove it!!)

So without further delay's, here is what she's come up with so far. She mixed the yellow exterior with the Diamond Black from BBS and carried the wheel color to all the trim, bumpers, rear panel, etc. It really looks like what I envisioned, but I have to admit based on the render I may get the bumper bolts shaved to make it even cleaner.

A couple of caveats:
- Neither BBS nor a true mesh was offered in DPB, which is disappointing, but she picked a wheel close enough to show off the look I'm after.
- The "Heap" will have a 2in cowl hood, but it's not availabe in the software package.
- No SS badges, but they can't be turned off

Let me know what you think!! Good or bad.....

Frontal quarter shot in low light.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/Render3_zps4a724db1-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/Computer%20Rendering/Render3_zps4a724db1.jpg.html)

Here are rear quarter shots. The color appears just like Dakar, it pops in the sun/lights but it's subdued in the shade or low light conditions.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/Render2_zps82f5b5c8-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/Computer%20Rendering/Render2_zps82f5b5c8.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/Render4_zpsc7c9a9ff-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/Computer%20Rendering/Render4_zpsc7c9a9ff.jpg.html)

Kerry

[analyte]

BTW, thanks to Carter Hickman for this software package. Add a few more wheels, cowl hoods, front/rear spoilers, and the ability to shade the colors with sliders and it will be near perfect.

He also offers fantastic customer service, even after hours when the kids are asleep. Kudo's to Carter!!!

[tommycomfort]

Awesome Kerry! I like the color alot.

[renegade6]

I like the rendering.

As for your EDP question, I just scuff and shoot. One thing to check is to make sure it is really EDP by putting some lacquer thinner on a spot and if it doesn't come off then it is EDP.

[analyte]

Awesome Kerry! I like the color alot.

Thanks Tom!!

[analyte]

I like the rendering.

As for your EDP question, I just scuff and shoot. One thing to check is to make sure it is really EDP by putting some lacquer thinner on a spot and if it doesn't come off then it is EDP.

Thanks!! I checked it with lacquer, and it's definitely EDP. I plan to scuff/shoot like you recommended.

[analyte]

No pictures, but the exterior is completely down to metal.the only issue is that I found a couple of small pin holes that I need to fix prior to beimg done. They will be covered so I'm comfortable fixing these spots.

Afterwards, I'll finish blasted the inner firewall and she'll be ready. This is definitely the longest step, but it needs to be right.

Kerry

[rixtrix1]

Nice job! just spent the last hour or so going through your thread. I'm doing my '66 ( it's a looonnnnggg drawn out project that I've owned since 1971) and will follow a lot of what you have done, although it's been a backhalved drag car for most of it's life. Did a lot of the rust repair like you had before I took about a dozen years off while our boys were in school, but I'm starting to get back on it for a PT/ Track car redo this time. I love the yellow, but I think I will go with a Corvette yellow that appears to be a little darker . The render turned out great and I love the mesh wheels. Keep up the good work and progress updates. Thanks for sharing!

[analyte]

Nice job! just spent the last hour or so going through your thread. I'm doing my '66 ( it's a looonnnnggg drawn out project that I've owned since 1971) and will follow a lot of what you have done, although it's been a backhalved drag car for most of it's life. Did a lot of the rust repair like you had before I took about a dozen years off while our boys were in school, but I'm starting to get back on it for a PT/ Track car redo this time. I love the yellow, but I think I will go with a Corvette yellow that appears to be a little darker . The render turned out great and I love the mesh wheels. Keep up the good work and progress updates. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks for the support, I struggled to find a yellow that wasn't too bright, too dark, or too green. I truthfully was OK withe the original Lemonwood yellow, but the daughter would have nothing to do with it. LOL

[analyte]

Finally, a day arrived that I have been looking forward to for quite some time. The body was blasted and several parts were test fit to hopefully ensure no surprises will pop up when the final build happens. I probably won't get that lucky, but at least everything won't give me fits.

I've been waiting on my guy to start on the final body work before paint, but it's been one thing or another. Therefore, I finally decided to get out my spray guns and dust them off for another go round by my hand. I will be doing all the priming and blocking myself, but I will have a friend do the final color and clear.

Today, I was able to get the car masked off and black epoxy shot in the trunk, floors, and outer firewall. I still have to get my seat brackets welded down, but I couldn't wait any longer with the body in white metal. I'll get them done before it goes for the final color coat.

Before shots:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/20140525_121825_zpsaf95ba32-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140525_121825_zpsaf95ba32.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/20140525_121747_zpsbe9d116c-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140525_121747_zpsbe9d116c.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/20140525_121651_zpscb7c9087-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140525_121651_zpscb7c9087.jpg.html)

After DP48LF Epoxy Primer:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/20140525_134752_zpsa88088bf-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140525_134752_zpsa88088bf.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/20140525_134800_zpse4674c08-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140525_134800_zpse4674c08.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/20140525_134807_zps8993e157-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140525_134807_zps8993e157.jpg.html)

It's a small step, but I've been waiting for this moment to arrive for a while now. I still have to seam seal the overlaps now that primer is laid, but that isn't a big deal. Next week I'll start masking off the newly painted surfaces so that I can prepare for Epoxy/K36 on the exterior body panels the following weekend. Very exciting stuff!!

Kerry

[analyte]

Well, I'm not adhering to any type of timeline that I set for myself, but I am making progress nonetheless. My goal is still to get this car painted before the end of the year.

I've been traveling a lot lately, but I was able to spend the entire 3 day weekend in the garage working on my punch list that seems to be growing more than shrinking.

Door hinges rebuilt and installed...done
Final sanding around front and back glass.....done
Firewall scuffed.....done
Quarters scuffed...done


All those items led me to my biggest accomplishment thus far. The entire main body is now in primer. I sprayed from midnight until around 4:30am just so the temps and conditions were right.

Here is the body once masking was complete. That last pictures of her bare skin!! LOL
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140704_181108_zps0705fb90-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140704_181108_zps0705fb90.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140705_162105_zps0bb64d0d-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140705_162105_zps0bb64d0d.jpg.html)

Once I got going with the epoxy, all was good. I had previously sprayed the firewall black, but I was outside the recoat window and I needed to glaze a few areas to improve the overall visual appearance. Here are the pics with the DP48LF when complete.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140706_012329_zpsd3157261-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140706_012329_zpsd3157261.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140706_012343_zps8f6a8a7a-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140706_012343_zps8f6a8a7a.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140706_012359_zpsdf9863f3-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140706_012359_zpsdf9863f3.jpg.html)

Finally, the crowning moment when I pushed it outside in another color besides bare metal.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140706_170152_zpsedf2a566-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140706_170152_zpsedf2a566.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140706_170702_zps46c1ffdb-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140706_170702_zps46c1ffdb.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140706_170138_zpsdf19c032-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140706_170138_zpsdf19c032.jpg.html)

It was truly a lot of fun spraying the car myself. It took a bit to get into a zone since I haven't sprayed in several years, but by the second coat of epoxy I was rocking it.

I'll let it sit a few days while waiting on the Rage Gold, dry guide coat, and seam sealer to deliver. My plans for next weekend are to start my initial blocking to identify the low spots for the first round of filler/glaze and any other issues to address. I'm just glad to start a new phase in the build.

Hopefully, I'll be able to drop the door, fenders and decklid at the media blasters this week so I can get those in prime as well. Wow, putting it back together for fit and sanding seems very exciting. LOL

Kerry

[Motown 454]

It looks good nice job!

[renegade6]

You are making great progress. If you haven't purchased your seam sealer yet, Summit had some SEM 2 part epoxy seam sealer for a great price.

[analyte]

It looks good nice job!

Thanks, I'm afraid to count the hours already spent thus far on the body......lol


You are making great progress. If you haven't purchased your seam sealer yet, Summit had some SEM 2 part epoxy seam sealer for a great price.

It just figures that I ordered some seam sealer yesterday and then I find out about a deal. My good luck!!

[renegade6]

You will probably need more than you ordered. It is amazing how many areas need to be covered once it has been blasted.

[analyte]

After letting the car sit for week, it was time to start the blocking to identify any low/high spots. In the previous picture set, the rear panel shows a dent that I missed when in bare metal. After reviewing the dent, I ended up getting my body tools to first straighten the area, and then I used my body hammer and dolly to shape the panel back to original. It will need some more skim coats and blocking, but it will look right in the end.

Here are the results after my first round of block sanding. I have a couple of low spots and several high spots in the repro quarters to address. I'm not done with body tools just yet. Hopefully tonight I'll be able to add some more filler skim coats to correct the slight warpage caused by welding on the quarter panels.

The left side was a foolish mistake on my end. I grabbed the roll of 80grit instead of the 180grit, and I didn't realize it until the center of the quarter panel was complete. It took off more material that I needed, but I didn't realize what was going on early enough so I'll have to build that side back up to correct.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140710_224427_zpse77bce52-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140710_224427_zpse77bce52.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140711_144818_zpseace836f-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140711_144818_zpseace836f.jpg.html)

The firewall fill panel looks look. I have a few spots to glaze where the studs for the Vintage Air box were added. No concerns here.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140711_144824_zpsf91a470b-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140711_144824_zpsf91a470b.jpg.html)

Kerry

[analyte]

I'm finally pleased with the left quarter enough to start moving toward the other side. I've spent the great majority of my time on the upper character line where the skin was welded. There was some slight warping so it needed more work than the rest, but I got it looking quite good right now. I won't be surprised if a little glaze is needed here for there before I'm done.

I have to admit I was surprised at how unlevel the quarter was out of the box. It will definitely need 3-4 more blocking dates before it's ready for paint. It did need skim coat of filler, but most of it ended up on the floor before I was finished. Afterwards, I hit the spots with epoxy to seal them up until I'm done with the rest of the body.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140713_005300_zpscb82a435-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140713_005300_zpscb82a435.jpg.html)

I'll start on the rear filler and hopefully finish the first run on the right quarter tomorrow or Monday night. The goal is to shoot it with another 3 coats of K36 on Friday as my fenders, decklid, and quarter extension will be back from blasting by then.

Kerry

[analyte]

I spent today working on the right quarter. Like the other side, I was mainly focused on the top edge where the skin was welded on. I'm pleased to say that it is very straight and flat now, and the other body lines are also very crisp. The minor body work is done, and I've covered my skim coats with epoxy to seal them off.

I'm can now say that while the quarters did have a few low/high spots in each, they are actually pretty good pieces for repro's. They will need block sanded probably 3-4 more times before I'm completely happy, but they are a huge improvement over original rusty parts they replaced.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140713_174222_zps92a7c74f-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140713_174222_zps92a7c74f.jpg.html)

Once the quarter was good, I then worked on the sail panel to get it smooth at the transition point from roof to vertical. I had to work the other side as well, but the right side definitely stretched my patience. LOL

Now that the two largest panels on the body are finished with round one, I'll start working on the rear filler and firewall. I also have a ding to get on the front part of the roof so I'll catch that one at the same time. Once those areas are done, I'll get my body hammer out again and work on the rear panel some more since I'm still not happy with it.

Kerry

[rixtrix1]

Getting better all the time!

[analyte]

Getting better all the time!

I have difficulty seeing that sometimes....lol

[analyte]

I was able to change my view to something besides the quarters tonight. I addressed three things on my punch list tonight; rear filler panel, roof ding, and the firewall transition.

The rear filler is a new panel as the original had rust that was stuffed with bondo over 3/8 thick. The replacement went in nice, but somewhere along the way it got a dent near the center. Once worked as much as possible, it only took a thin coat to level it off with the surrounding areas.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140714_223546_zps35c24a6b-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140714_223546_zps35c24a6b.jpg.html)

Next, I had a ding on the front passenger roof that needed to be addressed. Again, a little skim coat was all that was needed and most of it ended up on the floor.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140714_223705_zpsc2ce0d46-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140714_223705_zpsc2ce0d46.jpg.html)

Finally, I had to work on the firewall where the bolts were welded for the VA bracket and to smooth the transition of the flat panel to the original firewall. The bolt issue was easy enough, but I had to work the area around the trim plate so it flowed nice. I guess I could have removed the trim plate, but I figured it had been there for 40+ years so why not go for another 40...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140714_223619_zpsabee2887-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140714_223619_zpsabee2887.jpg.html)

Now that these items have been addressed the first time around, I'll turn my attention back to the taillight panel. I know it will need some more hammer/dolly work to smooth it out, but I don't want to start on it until I'm in the right mood. Otherwise, my patience could get the best of me. Hopefully, tomorrow night I'll be able to knock it out.....pun intended. :)

[Motown 454]

Coming along nice. When I try to do body work I need someone to pull me out of the pile of sanding dust because it take me so many tries to get even close to done. Then I have someone fix my mess!

[analyte]

Coming along nice. When I try to do body work I need someone to pull me out of the pile of sanding dust because it take me so many tries to get even close to done. Then I have someone fix my mess!

Thanks for the positive reinforcement. I've played with filler before, but not to this level and in so many different areas.

I did make one goof. I wasn't sure at first how much hardener was needed for the Rage Gold based on my timing preference so I used the line method mentioned on all the videos. I mixed it up good, then set it down to put on my mask before walking out to the garage. When I got to the car, the stuff was already hard. I'm now using a 3/4 line....lol

[analyte]

I continue to make progress on the body work. I worked on the tail light panel to smooth it out with my hammer/dolly, and using a straight edge I got it just about where I want it. I'll finish it up Thursday night followed by primer and some filler to get it done.

With the surrounding panels complete, I started on the roof and rockers. I found several low spots with blocking the roof, likely from hail or whatever, so I tapped out what I could and then put a thin coat of filler on it to level everything out. All was going well until I realized I was out of 80grit that I use for my initial cut. I thought I still had one roll, but nope it was my last. The shape wasn't bad so i was able to move directly to 180grit on a few spots, but the center area still needs to be shaped more as it's high in the center. I'll stop by the local jobber tomorrow and pick up some more 80grit so as to finish tomorrow night.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140715_224424_zps1b3d02bf-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140715_224424_zps1b3d02bf.jpg.html)

I also had some filler left over from the roof so I went ahead with my first coat on the left rocker. The main areas needing filler is where the rocker moldings were attached. I got a quick cut with my last strip of 80grit, but it will also have to wait until tomorrow night to finish. Sorry for the terrible picture, but you'll get the idea.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140715_224440_zpsb0e79348-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140715_224440_zpsb0e79348.jpg.html)

I didn't do anything to the right rocker tonight. Around 60% of the outer surface was replaced due to a poor repair in an earlier accident by a previous owner. I had to do some spot grinding and metal work to smooth out the surface before moving to a skin coat of filler to make it clean once the other side is finished.

I"ll be picking up a few parts tomorrow that were blasted, and hopefully the rest by the end of the week. If luck stays with me, I'll be finished with the main body on Thursday night which will then allow me to prime everything this weekend. That will allow me to hang the doors and fenders so that I may check all the lines and block them together. Very exciting!!

Kerry

[Motown 454]

Your making some great progress. Enjoying the updates.

[rixtrix1]

Funny that you found a ding in your filler panel. I bought mine about 15 years ago from Sherman. I took it out of the box a couple of months ago and there is a raised ding right in the center of it, from the bottom side up. The box looks perfect.

You're moving along much faster than I am, but I hate body work, too, mainly because I'm so particular, haha. I think restoring cars leads to self
- induced madness, haha.

[analyte]

Your making some great progress. Enjoying the updates.

Thanks. I won't get anything done tonight due to working late, but I got some 80grit!! LOL


Funny that you found a ding in your filler panel. I bought mine about 15 years ago from Sherman. I took it out of the box a couple of months ago and there is a raised ding right in the center of it, from the bottom side up. The box looks perfect.

You're moving along much faster than I am, but I hate body work, too, mainly because I'm so particular, haha. I think restoring cars leads to self
- induced madness, haha.

This is weird, but not surprising I guess since the shape doesn't bode well for any type pressure or flexibility without distorting.

I'm not a fan of body work either, but i can do it so why not. Also, I'm even less happy with waiting any longer to get this thing painted.

[analyte]

I stopped by this morning and picked up a few parts that had been blasted. I wasn't able to get the doors, fenders, or decklid, but I'm hoping they will be done tomorrow. I need them so that I may prime everything this weekend and start assembling the car to check/set gaps and overall fit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140717_081642_zps85bcc6a5-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140717_081642_zps85bcc6a5.jpg.html)

I was able to finish up the roof to my liking. Another large panel finished with body work and ready for priming again.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140718_005803_zps6333a7cd-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140718_005803_zps6333a7cd.jpg.html)

I was running out of time, but I went ahead and finished the left rocker. It was good except for needing some finishing where the rocker pins were shaved.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140718_005810_zpsb1befe36-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140718_005810_zpsb1befe36.jpg.html)

I finished the metal shaping on the tail light filler panel so just to see how I did I worked on one side. The first skim coat took care of most of it, but I had to add an additional layer in a couple of low spots. I'll finish it tomorrow night along with the right rocker before laying epoxy over the open filler areas and any bare metal spots. I'll then get the car out of the garage for cleaning and hanging new plastic in preparation of spraying the second round of K36 Saturday night.

BTW, I also ordered my basecoat this morning.
BMW Dakar Yellow II Code 337
PPG DBC 83867

I played with a couple of the new clearcoats, but I'll likely end up staying with the PPG 2002. I just like the way it sprays and it has very good gloss. I'll get it ordered in the next couple of weeks right before I'm ready for the final coat.

Kerry

[rixtrix1]

Great job. I'm sure the pics reflect only a minor portion of the labor involved. How will you handle the seam between the rear pillar and the trunk filler panel? Seam sealer or ? My old one had been brazed in place which made it a real nightmare to remove.

[analyte]

Great job. I'm sure the pics reflect only a minor portion of the labor involved. How will you handle the seam between the rear pillar and the trunk filler panel? Seam sealer or ? My old one had been brazed in place which made it a real nightmare to remove.

Thanks again for the supportive comments. I'm hoping it's all beneficial to someone to do some of this themselves.

That's a good question about the seam between the pillar and filler panel. I don't recall my metal guy mentioning it was brazed, but he could have just never come up. Nonetheless, I have a guy coming over tomorrow that may shoot the final color coat in a spray booth so I'll ask him about it and report back.

Kerry

[analyte]

The weather is better today so I got all the remaining parts at the blaster. I forgot to take the cowl grille and inner fenders so those will have to be dropped off, but that's for another day.

The parts came out looking good with one exception. A surprise I didn't want or need.

First the good stuff!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140719_130541_zps3436783b-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140719_130541_zps3436783b.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140719_130615_zps8f2785d5-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140719_130615_zps8f2785d5.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140719_130618_zps476519d5-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140719_130618_zps476519d5.jpg.html)

And now the unfortunate discovery...my decklid has major rust under the rear lip along with on the top side direct above and another spot by the front most edge when on the car. A couple of snaps, but not all the trouble spots.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140719_130645_zpsd16f8917-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140719_130645_zpsd16f8917.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140719_130649_zps8e920946-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140719_130649_zps8e920946.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140719_130654_zps76b1a671-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140719_130654_zps76b1a671.jpg.html)

Based on the time required to fix, I am now on the lookout for a good used decklid since I don't want to chance a repo needing lots of work to fit correctly.

Here is the final roof complete. I encapsulated the filler with epoxy afterwards to protect the filler from moisture.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140719_130713_zps2956bcbd-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140719_130713_zps2956bcbd.jpg.html)

Finally, I've been enjoying working on the car myself but all good things must come to an end. My paint guy came by today to check my work and look at the freshly blasted parts. Through conversation and shared opportunities with me marketing his work, he will be getting the car in around two weeks and he will finish all the body/sanding work and lay on the color. With me traveling again for work over the next few weeks, this is a better option to keep the car progressing.

Of course, I'll continue to stop by for updates and pics to share!!

Kerry

[analyte]

With the body/paint work plans in motion, I set to work on a few other items on the punch list.

Up first was the Hellwig front sway bar that I never bolted up. I'm not a fan of the clevis brackets and I worry about the bar getting in a bind, but otherwise the bar is a nice piece. I prefer the black color on the DSE and other brand parts, but this one has a hammertone appearance that will at least break up all the black when the engine bay is complete. I'm sure the bar will be upgraded at some point anyway since these cars are never done.

I need to take some time and clean this thing up as this pic shows everything is really dusty...lol
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140720_170022_zps06d38e50-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140720_170022_zps06d38e50.jpg.html)

Next, I started working on the seats again. Early in the build I made elaborate brackets only to find out I didn't have enough head room. Now that it's crunch time, I made the decision to mount them directly to the floor with some plates and threaded rod. I'm also tall so I'm taking liberty with the seats to ensure I have plenty of leg room. Once I had the seat where I wanted it, I marked the floor for the plates. I'll have to get those made up next.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140720_170031_zps19f0328e-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140720_170031_zps19f0328e.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140720_170048_zps1a00ed7f-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140720_170048_zps1a00ed7f.jpg.html)

The wife and daughter have been making sure when finished the car isn't too low key. That's why I switched from the Lemonwood yellow to the BMW Dakar Yellow II so it has more pop. Taking it further, they weren't ever crazy about the all black stock interior so they've come up with another idea. It was tough at first, but I will admit it's starting to grow on me. When they first saw Tom Farrington's Chevelle they really liked how he carried the silver exterior into the interior.

I'm going to hold the line on the dash, but I will be moving away from the black areas at the top of the door. I'm confident this theme is due to the wife's Mini having the interior color keyed to the exterior. Whatever keeps the girls interested in the project suits me just fine.

Sorry for the not so good pics, but they were sent to me this way. I'm sure you'll understand.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140719_163023_zps3ff99362-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140719_163023_zps3ff99362.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140719_162925_zpse78360cf-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140719_162925_zpse78360cf.jpg.html)

I had no luck with a deck lid I looked at today so I'm going to take my current panel to my metal guy tomorrow to see what he thinks. He's almost magical at times so I may be thinking the worst for no reason. If so, that will avoid another used part that likely needs work or a poor fitting repo that needs work as well. In the end, I know this part fits the car!!

Kerry

[Motown 454]

I think the exterior color on the top of the door will look nice. Good luck with the trunk l Hope it goes well.

[analyte]

I think the exterior color on the top of the door will look nice. Good luck with the trunk l Hope it goes well.

Thanks for the feedback on the yellow within the interior. Like I said, it's growing on my too.

I did stop by my metal guy today so that he could look at the decklid. He didn't seem to be that concerned about it, and he said it will be ready in a day or so. I guess I was worried for no reason....

I'm really glad I found him because he's done a wonderful job on all my car stuff. I even asked him about welding in the mounts for the seats since I don't trust my own skill for such a critical area. Once I get the plate and bolts, he said he'll stop by and finish them off for me. Fantastic!!

Kerry

[Motown 454]

Sweet!

[analyte]

Just a quick update on the car.

The decklid is still getting worked over, and it should be done by the weekend. After it's completed, my hope is that my metal guy, Dan, will be at the house Saturday morning to help me get the seat brackets made and welded into the car. If all goes to plan, I'll take pictures during the install.

I located my outer cowl panel and inner fenders so I'll be dropping them by to be blasted sometime next week. That should complete all the parts needing done before going for final paint.

I sent off my hood hinges today to be broken down, blasted, and rebuilt back to perfect working condition. They looked OK, but I've gone this far so why not!! It should be around a 7-10 day turnaround so the timing should be just about right.

One more selfish plug. The guy doing my metal work, Dan Stacey, has spent alot of time on my car both during the day and off hours to help me get things done. That said, I want to give him a plug in case anyone around the state of Tennessee is looking for someone to do this kind of work. He can work within a budget or do custom work if money is no object. Here's his business card as a plug within my thread since good guys are hard to find.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140724_174929_zpsfde51b71-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140724_174929_zpsfde51b71.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140724_174900_zpsd93ad690-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140724_174900_zpsd93ad690.jpg.html)

A very exciting time working out pre-paint punch list items. The wife will be so happy when it's gone!! LOL

Kerry

[analyte]

Well, this was a big weekend for getting things done on the car. To start off, on Friday my Yellow basecoat arrived so I was in a good mood!! I had to pop the lid and take a look, lol.

My order from Ground Up arrived which consisted of new screw bolts for the door hinges, bumper filler panel, and door strikers. The biggest goof is that I only ordered one striker so I'll have to order another with the grill. No big deal, par for the course.

My parts at the blaster weren't finished on Saturday as expected so I'll drop by sometime later this week when I return from my business trip. I had ordered a Rotabroach to make the holes for the A/C hoses, but I again made the mistake of not ordering the arbor. Once I got over my goof, I made another call and it should deliver sometime this week.

The biggest news is that my seats are in!! Dan, my metal guy, came over Saturday morning and we(more like he) spent several hours fabbing new seat mounts to weld them to the floorpan. They did get moved back 5 inches or so compared to the stock seat, but they now fit me quite well with room for a helmet. I did have the wife move the seat all the way up, and she will be able to drive if needed in a pinch.

Here we're doing the initial placement of the seat to find the perfect position for me. Once situated, we tacked the bracket in place.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140726_093424_zps94954189-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140726_093424_zps94954189.jpg.html)

Once the front brackets were set, we moved to the back. Due to the slope of the pan and side of the trans tunnel, he fabbed a couple of brackets to level them off so it sits nice and flat. It took several install/removals of the seat to get them fitted correctly.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140726_100240_zpsa1a2053e-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140726_100240_zpsa1a2053e.jpg.html)

Soon the driver's seat was finished and installed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140726_100240_zpsa1a2053e-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140726_100240_zpsa1a2053e.jpg.html)

Alot of time was spent lining up the passenger seat as compared to the driver's side. We used measurements and visual references to ensure they were square with each other and not off center. I'll skip ahead and show you all four brackets in place awaiting the final welding. What's nice is that he welded nuts on the bottom of each bracket so the bolts are installed down rather than having alot of bolts sticking up when the seats are out.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140726_130238_zpsafb90aad-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140726_130238_zpsafb90aad.jpg.html)

Finally, all the welding was done and both seats were installed. Including the pre-work fabbing rough brackets, it took right at 5 hours to get the brackets made, fitted, and welded into the car. Not sure if that is typical, but we worked steady throughout. I felt like I spent a lot of time making sure the seat was where I wanted it and room was available where I needed it. In the end, I was very happy and that's what matters to me!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140726_132740_zpse7ceabe5-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140726_132740_zpse7ceabe5.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/20140726_132755_zpsb4ff2447-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140726_132755_zpsb4ff2447.jpg.html)

Once installed, I really liked the way they looked in the car. I had installed the brake/clutch pedal when finalizing the placement since I didn't want to leave anything to chance. I'll have to get one piece replaced on the driver's side bolster, but that will be for later on.

Now that those are in, I'll start working on my new clutch stop. I welded a piece of metal early on to bottom out on the floor, but now that I'm stepping through everything I want to make it nicer and not as visible. I have a couple of ideas so we'll see how it works out.

Kerry

[analyte]

Small update for today. I returned to TN and picked up, hopefully, the final parts from the blaster. I did discover a spot of rust on the passenger side under where the battery tray sits. The only other concern was a split on one of the ends of my front cowl panel. The other inner was perfect. I'll snap pics tomorrow when I drop them off to be repaired, plus I'm getting all the holes filled on the inner fenders since my plan is to run as much of the hoses hidden as possible.

I had more K36 and DP48LF arrive today for my painter, and I also enter my order for 2002 clearcoat. Once it arrives I should have everything needed to get it in color, and the best news is that my painter will be ready for me to drop it off the second weekend in August.

That means I need to finish up my last punch list items before it goes: (1) seal trunk floor, (2) epoxy under trunk pan, rear wheel wells, and seat mounts, (3) fab new clutch stop, (4) spray the inner A-posts and dash frame satin/flat black, (5) drill firewall holes for A/C hoses.

Kerry

[analyte]

On another note, I want to give a shout out to Aaron (65 LS1 T56) for his hospitality this week. While in Flint, MI this week I was invited over to his garage to get a closer look and ride in his awesome Chevelle. The custom bits on that car are over the top, and the 66 vette is coming along nicely!! We talked about his car, brakes, wiring install, etc. He was literally an open book and that was far more helpful than I'm sure he believes.

As if that wasn't enough, during the ride he gave me a tour of his business. In my work I usually deal with material properties and workability, but it was impressive seeing the different tools he works with daily. I was blown away by his day job, and I wanted to play with the CNC machines so badly...LOL

The beer was cold, and I left with a lot of questions answered and new ideas for my own project. Thanks again for the hospitality and friendship which is why these cars are so fun.

Kerry

[analyte]

I continued to work on my punch list today considering I need to get this stuff done before next weekend when she finally goes to final body/paint. It doesn't seem like a lot, but they are time consuming.

First off, a money shot since all my paint finally arrived this week. Some of it is still in boxes, but it's all there:
2gal DP48LF, 1gal DP401LF, 2gal K36, K201, 2gal Dakar Yellow II, 2gal DC2002, DT885, DCX61, and zero gloss black for dash/a-posts

Whew, I hope I got enought....lol
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/20140802_171940_zps62e617f9-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140802_171940_zps62e617f9.jpg.html)

I worked on the dash support and A-posts since I'm staying with flat black for those areas. I had DP'd the area awhile back, but since I was out of the re-coat window I had to scuff and reshoot one coat before applying the zero gloss black.

Before DP
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/20140802_192540_zps73a82502-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140802_192540_zps73a82502.jpg.html)

After zero gloss, sorry for the less than clear pic
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/20140802_234810_zpsdf06dc5f-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140802_234810_zpsdf06dc5f.jpg.html)

Not shown is under the trunk pan since lighting is so poor. I hadn't applied any DP on that area since the pan was replaced so I mixed up enough to cover that area and the wheelwells which were repaired as well. Now the entire car is DP'd underneath so eventually I may add something like Lizard skin, just not decided yet.

Only a couple items left on the punch list; (1) order new grille, (2) fab new clutch stop. After viewing Aaron's clutch last week up close, I now have a good idea as to how to mimic his approach.

Kerry

[sskp1]

Kerry,

You are doing some impressive things here, It almost appears that you are getting close to being done.

So when should I plan on bringing mine by?

Kevin

[Motown 454]

Nice to see all the paint arrived ,and nice job on the punch list.

[analyte]

Kerry,

You are doing some impressive things here, It almost appears that you are getting close to being done.

So when should I plan on bringing mine by?

Kevin

Let's tentatively plan for May 2035,,,,lol

[analyte]

Nice to see all the paint arrived ,and nice job on the punch list.

Thanks, I can't wait until next weekend.

[splatt]

Looking good. Cant wait to see some color on it. Also what seats are those?
Also i think your spc arms are swapped side to side. The welded part at the ball joint goes to the front.

[406monte]

Wow, that car has come along way. I read from front to rear. That year Chevelle is my favorite of all the Chevelle's.

[rixtrix1]

Since you have the car pretty much blown apart, try to get the chassis specs for the distance between the front control arm mounts( tram measurement) to make sure yours hasn't collapsed together . Older GM A-bodies are known to collapse the frame together here due to the weight of the engine and the "U" shape of the front crossmember. I used to work in a frame and alignment shop, so I'll try to look and see if I can find my printout of the chassis specs, too, copied way before the internet, lol. Mine was 1/2" narrow.

[analyte]

Looking good. Cant wait to see some color on it. Also what seats are those?
Also i think your spc arms are swapped side to side. The welded part at the ball joint goes to the front.

Thanks, the seats are BMW E30 sport seats. Good side and thigh support, plus they are comfy!!
Wow, if they are backwards that's a major goof. I'll pull the paperwork to check. Worst case, I'll give Mark a call. Thanks for throwing that out there.


Wow, that car has come along way. I read from front to rear. That year Chevelle is my favorite of all the Chevelle's.

It's weird. I've been working on/off the car for three years, but it sure doesn't feel that long.


Since you have the car pretty much blown apart, try to get the chassis specs for the distance between the front control arm mounts( tram measurement) to make sure yours hasn't collapsed together . Older GM A-bodies are known to collapse the frame together here due to the weight of the engine and the "U" shape of the front crossmember. I used to work in a frame and alignment shop, so I'll try to look and see if I can find my printout of the chassis specs, too, copied way before the internet, lol. Mine was 1/2" narrow.

Will do. I checked the squareness of the frame, but not what you mentioned. Please do respond if you find the spec.


Kerry

[csouth]

Nice build, I love the 66 body


Looking good. Cant wait to see some color on it. Also what seats are those?

Those look like early BMW seats..... I pass by plenty of those in the JY's here in Detroit

[rixtrix1]

Just saw that there is going to be an auction at an old Chevrolet dealership 60 miles from my home town in Sept. for all of you lusting for a '66 Chevelle. No zero mileage new cars, but 200 mostly older cars and trucks in various condition( The owners also had a resto shop). I think I counted 7 1966 Chevelles for sale, mostly missing front end parts, including a '66 SS convertible; definitely project cars. I think it's listed under Van der Brink resales. Also around 10 OE blocks in crates listed as 301 blocks. You would have to check the part numbers to be sure , but I bet they are just small block service blocks. I had no problem finding a correct 301 block for my '68 Z28, but that was in 1982. ( Another one I let slip away).

[analyte]

Nice build, I love the 66 body



Those look like early BMW seats..... I pass by plenty of those in the JY's here in Detroit

You win a prize. I looked long and hard for a complete and working set and finally found them after about five months. Afterwards, I starting seeing them quite often so my poor timing as always....lol

Kerry

[analyte]

Today was another milestone in the build. The car is now at the body shop for final prep and color!!!

Before it left, I finished the last item on my punch list this morning. My build plan calls for VA A/C so I need to get the holes in the firewall for the hoses before paint. Based on feedback from PT.com, I bought a Rotabroach and arbor set to do the drilling. It went pretty well. I think an actual drill bit might have helped keep the point from walking, but I won't complain.

All looks good except for one hole that walked just a bit down and to the right. It's not bad, but I know about it. Fortunately, once the fenders are on no one will ever know but me. Well, I guess everyone on this site will know too....LOL
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/20140810_124301_zpsbb541449-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140810_124301_zpsbb541449.jpg.html)

After cleaning up, I got all the parts loaded and my paint guy stopped by to pick up the car. I was extremely jealous of the enclosed trailer, but it made transporting the parts much easier.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/20140810_154225_zps76217f49-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140810_154225_zps76217f49.jpg.html)

I still have to drop off the inner fenders and hood since they are getting some final work done prior to paint. I should have them to him by mid week. That will also give me a chance to check on the progress and snap a few pictures.

Now that the car is gone for color, I'll turn my attention to the engine for its turn to be cleaned up and painted along with some upgrades. I have an idea for a custom cam, but I need to make a couple of calls to verify I'm not in left field. If no surprises come up, I'll ship my set of Z06 heads out for some port work. I'm crossing my fingers....


Kerry

[rixtrix1]

Congrats on getting the car to paint! You've gotten an awful lot done in a short time. Any idea on how long it will be there?

[analyte]

Congrats on getting the car to paint! You've gotten an awful lot done in a short time. Any idea on how long it will be there?

He has a small shop so he only works on no more than two cars at a time. That said, he feels it should be done in around 6 weeks or so. We'll see!!

Kerry

[Bonehead]

I wont lie. I'm following this build like a fat kid follows cake. Cant wait to see it out of paint.

[analyte]

I wont lie. I'm following this build like a fat kid follows cake. Cant wait to see it out of paint.

LOL!! I'm definitely excited.

[analyte]

Just a quick update.

I stopped by the shop yesterday to drop off the inner fenders and hood, and to check on how it was going so far. I was happy to see parts slowly going back on the car. The decklid had been hung along with quarter extensions and passenger door. They are being checked for fit and gap now. Of course, all will need some work to ensure smooth transitions, but everything has to start somewhere.

Decklid and extensions, first time on the car in almost a year.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/20140813_172014_zpsd7b37082-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140813_172014_zpsd7b37082.jpg.html)

Passenger door hung for initial fitting.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/20140813_172026_zps0410c964-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140813_172026_zps0410c964.jpg.html)


I also found out I need to order more hinge screw bolts. I only got enough for one door so a call was put in for the other side. LOL

On the flip side, he's very pleased that it was blasted so nothing is hidden and he really likes the master bolt kit from AMK. I agree that working with old bolts can be frustrating at times...

Kerry

[Motown 454]

Great to see it going back together for fitment. Getting exciting now!

[analyte]

I got the correct screw bolts for the doors today so I dropped by the shop to see how things were going. I was pleasantly surprised to see it all put together for the first time in over three years. The doors lined up quite well, and he had the complete front and hood on the car. Nothing was bolted down solid as he was still checking everything for fit and to make sure it's all square. Nonetheless, I was excited to see it taking shape.

Enough typing, here are the pics.....

What a great look!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/20140816_160410_zps20c51408-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140816_160410_zps20c51408.jpg.html)

The tool leaned up against the fender is the tool being used to check the squareness as it's assembled.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/20140816_160427_zps12ef5ef4-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140816_160427_zps12ef5ef4.jpg.html)

Other door and fender on...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/20140816_160449_zpscd0959a8-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140816_160449_zpscd0959a8.jpg.html)

Finish with another frontal showing that subtle 2in cowl hood!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/20140816_160502_zpsd1bc49a0-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140816_160502_zpsd1bc49a0.jpg.html)

Hopefully, next time I'm by we'll be able to push it out side for pictures. I didn't want to disturb his work this time plus someone's vehicle was in the way. No big deal, too big of a grin right now to care!!!

Kerry

[Motown 454]

Sweet ! I love to see progress..

[rixtrix1]

Love the cowl hood look on the '66. It's coming along fast! Still wondering what to do with my Malibu......

[analyte]

Based on my visit yesterday, we took another look at the render for the car and made a few changes. Seeing the car in person and looking at a test panel of the Dakar Yellow, I wasn't really feeling the Diamond Black on the BBS wheels. The yellow made them look like they were covered in brake dust more than a somewhat charcoal grey shade. I've always wondered about it, but until you see it in person you never know how it will speak to you.

Based on that opinion, the wife and I pulled up the software and made a few changes to improve the overall statement of the car. The best thing is that it will allow me more options going forward in case I decide to change wheels at some point. I was really hoping to avoid the basic black, but in the end it looks the best with the yellow and ties everything to the interior. The shade will likely be an eggshell black around 30-40% gloss. The biggest change will be the wheel faces.

Pics removed due to final version being selected.

As always, please share your feedback. I love to read the comments and color is such a personal choice. I still have time to change my mind another time or two so who knows....lol

Thanks,
Kerry

[rixtrix1]

Wheel face change, YES, but leave the rims as they are, IMO. I dream of having my Malibu look this good: color, stance, wheel and tire combo!

[analyte]

Wheel face change, YES, but leave the rims as they are, IMO. I dream of having my Malibu look this good: color, stance, wheel and tire combo!

Got it, the black wheel face is a go with the machined lip.

Thanks!!

[Motown 454]

It's going to look nice.

[analyte]

I stopped by the shop today to check on things, and to get an estimate on my truck since a tree limb fell on it Saturday evening. I guess if it wasn't for bad luck I wouldn't have any. Nonetheless, he was still working on panel alignment when I got there. The doors and fenders look great, but the hood and deck lid will require some more work to fit right and have good gaps.

I continue to be pleased with the progress, and he plans to start body working by the end of the week. I'm also very happy that I sent the hood hinges to Willie to be rebuilt as they are smooth as glass.

I am enjoying the Digital Paint Booth software package. I tried different backgrounds so that the color didn't look like a highlighter, but the yellow still looks bright. It's only to help put my vision to paper, but I wish it provided inputs for LAB coordinates to account for tinting the colors. I guess you can't have everything for 79 bucks...

OK, wheels have no changes but the front grille and rear taillight filler are now back to the wheel color. I've got this pic on my desktop now as I continue to be drawn to it the most. I guess my quick fling with black is over....lol

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/Render16_zpsd9ac39cf-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/Render16_zpsd9ac39cf.jpg.html)


Kerry

[analyte]

I stopped by to check on the car, and things are progressing much the same. All is good except for the decklid as it has the same problem as most 66's where the deck lid hangs past the taillight extensions. That said, he'll be taking a break from it as I need him to repair my truck which had a tree limb fall on it. It was minimal damage, mainly just a dent on the roof and cosmetic scratches, but I'm going to have him get it fixed before jumping back on the Chevelle.

I spent today working on my LQ9. I finally made a decision on a cam which allowed me to move forward on my heads as I now know what my final chamber size needs to be. I shipped my 243 heads to Advanced Induction for their 232cc CNC porting and BTR .650 spring kit. I've been working with Tick Performance on my cam so it will be ordered this week along with all the supporting replacement parts needed to do it right. I'll be using ARP stuff throughout to get rid of the GM TTY bolts along with .051 MLS gaskets, LS7 lifters, new timing gear, ported LS6 oil pump, and new lifter trays. Once it's assembled, I'll measure to get the right length pushrods the first time. All done, the SCR will be 11.25:1 and the DCR will end up at 8.85.

So with all the engine parts progressing, I had to get the engine torn down and ready for paint and reassembly. (Sorry for the second picture being slightly out of focus.)

First off was the valve cover followed by the rockers and pushrods. Then the head bolts followed by head removal to expose the pistons and lifter trays. This was knocked out quickly.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140831_095548_zpsa1f677e6-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140831_095548_zpsa1f677e6.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140831_100507_zps8748843f-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140831_100507_zps8748843f.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140831_102112_zps4361cdc9-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140831_102112_zps4361cdc9.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140831_104509_zps5e8a0e81-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140831_104509_zps5e8a0e81.jpg.html)

When it was time to pull the lifters for inspection, the daughter showed up and showed interest in what I was doing. I had her help me pull the lifters while the wife captured the moment...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140831_111304_zps61149995-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140831_111304_zps61149995.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140831_111337_zpsa3c9db2f-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140831_111337_zpsa3c9db2f.jpg.html)

Once the top end was clear I decided to go ahead and pull the balancer off. I won't be using it again on the Chevelle, but you never know if it will be needed for the truck.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140831_153712_zps710ed90c-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140831_153712_zps710ed90c.jpg.html)

Once it was to the shortblock, I needed to check PTD clearance so the proper head gasket could be chosen for optimum quench. I again enlisted Morgan's help since I couldn't keep up with the dial while turning the engine at the same time. She was a champ and asked alot of questions as to what and why we were doing it. In the end, it measured just over .010 out of the hole so with my .051 gasket, my quench will be .041. That's perfect!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140831_163408_zpsd767cb2c-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140831_163408_zpsd767cb2c.jpg.html)

Just wanted to point out the case I found at Michael's while with the wife. It was the perfect size to hold my rocker securely while providing plenty of room for the bolts, rails, and other assorted items that will be needed to reassemble later on.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140831_190544_zpsdd47918c-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140831_190544_zpsdd47918c.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140831_190551_zps08ea87c9-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140831_190551_zps08ea87c9.jpg.html)

I was now to the stage where elbow grease and time with a ice scraper is needed. While cleaning the the remaining gasket residue on the block, I also got the carbon on the pistons.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140831_214457_zps89be5abc-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140831_214457_zps89be5abc.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140831_223029_zpsc4f8ee92-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140831_223029_zpsc4f8ee92.jpg.html)

The last task of the day was to tape off the cleaned areas after the pistons and bores were wiped with oil. I'm now ready to start degreasing and cleaning the block so as to get ready for paint.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140831_224047_zps70b4305f-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140831_224047_zps70b4305f.jpg.html)

Hopefully the weather will cooperate so that I'm able to start cleaning the block. I need to get it painted soon so that I'll be ready to start assembling once the parts start arriving.

Kerry

[Motown 454]

Sounds like a nice day in the garage with your daughter and some nice progress. Are you using the rocker trunnion upgrade kit ?

[analyte]

Sounds like a nice day in the garage with your daughter and some nice progress. Are you using the rocker trunnion upgrade kit ?

Indeed it was, but she always seems to disappear when it's time to clean anything...LOL

I will be adding the trunion upgrade just for smoother operation and piece of mind.

Kerry

[rixtrix1]

Looks like things are still progressing nicely. Great that you got your daughter involved.

[analyte]

Due to work I've been traveling and quite busy, but I made it a point to get out to the shop to check on the progress. I'm happy to say that the panel fitting is complete, and they are now spending their time getting the panels smooth. The decklid fitting was the most difficult as they wanted it to line up perfectly with the taillight extensions. The drivers door will get some metal to close up the gap at the back, but otherwise just alot of sanding and leveling.

I got a few pictures, but I screwed up and didn't leave with any of the passenger side. I'll make sure I verify I got everything from now on.:hammer: After looking at alot of cars this past weekend at LS Fest, I've made a change on the engine compartment. The firewall will now be body color so the engine being mostly black will "pop" with it as a background. With everything black like I planned, engine and bay, it really doesn't stand out unless a lot of shine is used which I was purposely trying to avoid.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140910_161727_zps33bed9dc-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140910_161727_zps33bed9dc.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140910_161734_zpsbecb588a-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140910_161734_zpsbecb588a.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140910_161743_zps98150549-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140910_161743_zps98150549.jpg.html)

I was actually surprised to see this much filler on the decklid. Granted it's very thin, but surprising nonetheless at the number of areas needing help.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140910_161747_zpsb69c57af-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140910_161747_zpsb69c57af.jpg.html)

Finally, I just wanted to share what's delivered so far this week for the engine. I still need to finish up cleaning the block, but hopefully by next week all the internal parts will be here so that I may start reassembly.

From left to right; LS7 lifters, LS6 lightweight valves (replacements and spares), 7.4 pushrods, LS6 ported oil pump, adj. timing chain if needed
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140910_211654_zps325d233e-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140910_211654_zps325d233e.jpg.html)


I heard from AI that the head porting is complete, and they have one completely assembled. The other is on standby until the LS6 valves shown deliver tomorrow. They should be finished by the weekend and in my hands by the end of next week.

Kerry

[analyte]

Looks like things are still progressing nicely. Great that you got your daughter involved.

Slowly buy surely as I continue to build momentum!!

I'm lucky my little girl is showing some interest, making memories I call it.

[Motown 454]

Great to see some nice progress. I love parts deliveries ! Keep us in the loop.

[analyte]

I was able to get a laundry list of items ordered on Friday. I'm hoping most will arrive by the end of this week along with my heads. What I've got coming:

Tick camshaft
Front/Rear cover gaskets, Intake manifold gaskets, TB gasket, valve cover gaskets
Knock sensors
42lb LS3 injectors
Pushrod checker
Replacement dowels for heads/trans
MLS Head gaskets
ARP head bolts and balancer bolt
New Lifter trays
Assembly lube
LSx engine harness (2-3 lead time)
Plus, a couple other items I'll keep to myself for now :)

Whew, that's quite a list. Hope the wife doesn't find out what I spent in just a couple of days....lol

So with all my parts arriving in the next week or so, I needed to get the block cleaned up and ready to start assembling when the time comes.

I spent the better part of the day blasting and cleaning parts, and I finally got the block ready for paint. It was never really in bad shape, but I wanted to get it looking good so when it goes in the car it looks like it belongs there. In addition to the block I got the engine accessory brackets, valve covers, and valley pan ready for paint as well.

I didn't get the before pictures transferred, but I'll go ahead and show the after.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140914_174000_zps8557b2e3-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140914_174000_zps8557b2e3.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140914_174005_zpsfbc4f669-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140914_174005_zpsfbc4f669.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140914_174011_zpse6868e8b-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140914_174011_zpse6868e8b.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140914_174016_zps50e9c525-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140914_174016_zps50e9c525.jpg.html)

This was just primer, but I'll let them sit for a couple days before finishing them off with the final coat. All parts will be done with a 60% gloss black finish except for the brackets, and they will be done in a 0% flat black to give some contract to the overall finished product.

Stay tuned.

Kerry

[rixtrix1]

Cool!

[analyte]

Cool!

It's definitely getting "cool" around here. I'm loving the weather while working in the driveway!!!:twothumbs

[analyte]

A small update;

The body work is still ongoing on the car so nothing really new to report there. Except, I won't have it back by the end of September, but I hope it won't be too many months longer. Work is progressing, and I like that he's working to do it right. Just wish it was faster. Hopefully, the timing will match Farrington's guess of November.....

That said, I got basecoat on the engine parts today so they are looking good. Once the rest of my orders arrive, I'll be able to swap cams and start building it back up. The heads are done and should deliver next week.

Finished product:

50% gloss black
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140919_111525_zps7f05cb9e-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140919_111525_zps7f05cb9e.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140919_111533_zpsd24dc3d8-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140919_111533_zpsd24dc3d8.jpg.html)

0% gloss black
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/20140919_114306_zpsbbcf29de-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/ktkirkpatrick/media/20140919_114306_zpsbbcf29de.jpg.html)

I still have a few things to do like the coil brackets and bellhousing, but this is a good start. I may also paint the LS6 intake yellow to match the car so as to tie it all together.

Kerry

[Motown 454]

It looks good.