Project 78 Cobra

[cobragt]

Been on here for a while I'm finally able to get back to work on my 78 Cobra. I bought the car in 88 for $900. Originally a 302 automatic with a 2.59 rear gear, a/c and power steering. When I got it the a/c unit and bracket were missing so the power steering pump bounced around. It also had a set of worn out 3.08 gears in the rear and 175,000 on the clock. First things to get changed were the rear gears. a friend had a 3.40 single side gear set out of a Maverick. Got rid of the factory 13" steel wheels for a set of factory 13" aluminum wheels of a 79 Pinto ( yah I know not a big improvement) They would latter be changed to 15x8 with 225/50/15's on them. And front fender bumper and header panel. Most of this wouldn't happen til I got the car back from my wife whom I was separated from. Currently the car is in primer but still needs more body work. 302 and 5spd out of an 85 GT, engine had 50,000 on it in 94 when i put it in and the car has seen less than 1,000 a year since then. Springs in the front are out of my 87 GT, KYB shocks, 3.55 posi. I've got a brand new world class 5sd waiting to go in, Plans are for 4 wheel disc and 5 lug conversion, tubular control arms Motorsport C kit front springs (650lb rating) Not sure on shocks yet. Traction master bars ( they are willing to do a custom set) I'm going to see if a panhard bar for a 79 to 93 will fit. Also trying to figure out headers, no one makes headers for this car with the wider 5sp bell housing. Also not sure about mods to the engine at this point other than the 670 Holley that's on it now otherwise it's pretty much a stock engine. The guy I bought it from said the heads were shaved but not really sure what difference that made. Color plan is GM Dark Polo Green. Wheels and tires are also up in the air. I'm leaning towards the torque thrusts but not bigger than 16" or 17".4553345538455354554045534455394553745536 Note the 2nd Gen Camaro in line in front of my car at autocross.

[cobragt]

More pics to come

[Swiftandswank]

Sweet, Mustang II's never get enough love

[cobragt]

I converted the taillights to all red and a friends father threw together a box to make them sequential. I had to do a lot of rewiring and run an extra power wire to the back off an auxiliary fuse box45545

I purchased front springs from Racer Walsh that were suppose to lower the front an inch. the car dropped 3 inches because the springs were for 4 or 6 cylinder cars. I even told them it had a 302 in it when I ordered them. Sent them back and used the front springs out of my 87 GT that only had 18 thousand miles on them. Had to cut a few coils but otherwise they slide right in.45544

[cobragt]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/11vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/12vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/13vi-1.jpg

[cobragt]

When I had the bright idea of painting it pearl white with gold stripes
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/14vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/15vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/16vi-1.jpg

[cobragt]

Here are some pics with the 15's on it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/17vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/18vi-1.jpg

At autocross with 86 GT 10 hole wheels with racing tires

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/AutoCross1Cobra2vivi-1.jpg

way too much body roll!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/MyCobravivi-1.jpg

King Cobra air dam and 87 GT driving lights. Also note in the other pics the Shelby style side scoops. Plans are to make them functional.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P3010004vi-1.jpg

[cobragt]

Battery tray repair

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P2050002vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P2060003vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P2060004vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/IM001291vi-1.jpg

Note how close the exhaust manifold is to the frame

Finished with POR15

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P2120008vi-1.jpg

[cobragt]

Quarter panel rust repair

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P3010001vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P3010002vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P3010003vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P3010005vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P3010008vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P3080003vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P3080002vi-1.jpg

[cobragt]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Patches
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P3080004vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P3080007vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P3110005vi-1.jpg

[cobragt]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P3180013vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P3200015vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P4050002vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P4120007vi-1.jpg

Patch for the bottom of the quarter.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P4190001vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P4190002vi-1.jpg

This is just some of the pics for patching the quarter panel, total was a couple pieces of scrap metal cut into 18 pieces, shaped and welded back together.

[cobragt]

This is the 3rd hatch that has been on this car, I'm hoping it will be the last. The inside of this one has Zeibart or Rusty Jones or something in it. So maybe it won't rot away like the other 2.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P4260006vi-1.jpg

Welded up the emblem holes and drilled out the holes for the spoiler and way more bondo work than I wanted. I think the media blaster may have warped it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P4290002vi-1.jpg

[cobragt]

This I put off for a while. But wasn't as hard to repair as I thought.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P5080026vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P5080027vi-1.jpg

New pieces that I made.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P5080029vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P5080030vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P5240001vi-1.jpg

after bondo work and stripping the old seam sealer and paint I got it in primer. Still not sure why that side rusted but the other side didn't. Next step will be sanding seam sealing and getting the hatch and jamb painted so I can glue the new weather strip in and install the hatch and glass.

[cobragt]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/PB010001vi-1.jpg

[cobragt]

Holley 670 carb. I'm probably going to change the intake. I think the stock aluminum Ford intake is a bit restrictive.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P5080032vi-1.jpg

[mrbigblock]

nice project,have 78 king cobra coming next after my chevelle,keep pics coming

[chaz75]

I'm on the look out for one of these, been on my mind for over a year, will be watching this, thanks.

[Kenova]

Since I own a Vega, let me be the first to welcome you to the world of red headed step children.
Cudos for jumping into the deep end and taking care of a car that, in the past, was treated with the respect of a disposable razor.
As that Kermit fella says, "It ain't easy........"

Ken

[cobragt]

Since I own a Vega, let me be the first to welcome you to the world of red headed step children.
Cudos for jumping into the deep end and taking care of a car that, in the past, was treated with the respect of a disposable razor.
As that Kermit fella says, "It ain't easy........"

Ken
My dad had a 76 Mach 1 when I was growing up and I drove it to school for a while before he got rid of it. When I found this one I had to get it. Funny thing is that I saw it on a car carrier about a month before I found it at the used car lot. I guess it was heading towards the auction at the time. I had also told my brother at the time that I wished I knew where it was heading. Weird that I found it again. My neighbor in IL had a Vega GT in a lime green met. that they would pay me to wash when I was a kid. I always thought they were cool. Is yours a V8?

[Kenova]

Is yours a V8?
Sadly no. It still has the original 2.3 (auto tranny). I bought it from a friend of mine. He had the engine torn down and sleeved as soon as he bought it. Between that and the overall excellent condition of the car I'm having trouble bringing myself to modify it. Of course, being somewhat lazy might have something to do with it too.
Cool story about finding your MII. They are harder to find around here than the Vegas.

Ken

[cobragt]

Sadly no. It still has the original 2.3 (auto tranny). I bought it from a friend of mine. He had the engine torn down and sleeved as soon as he bought it. Between that and the overall excellent condition of the car I'm having trouble bringing myself to modify it. Of course, being somewhat lazy might have something to do with it too.
Cool story about finding your MII. They are harder to find around here than the Vegas.

Ken

I can't remember the last time I saw a Vega around here, or a Monza for that matter. I do know where a Pinto is sitting but the guy won't sell it.

[opnwide]

I'd like someone to do a t-top king cobra with a coyote 5.0 and maybe some repro 17s. What's the curb weight on those things-2800 lbs?

[cobragt]

I'd like someone to do a t-top king cobra with a coyote 5.0 and maybe some repro 17s. What's the curb weight on those things-2800 lbs?

Some where around that weight, You'll need to do some chassis stiffening with the T-tops.

[mrbigblock]

yep,quiet a bit of stiffening,but once it's done,at 2800lbs,can you say riding on rails.

[cobragt]

I've been in Arizona for the last week and stopped at Desert Valley Auto Parts and picked up a used set of heater/ ac controls. Now I just need to get them on the airplane with me.

[NJSPEEDER]

As maligned as that generation of Mustang is I have always wanted one. Where I go running I pass one that has been sitting for at least 10 years that I know of, such a temptation to just knock on the door and see if they want to get rid of it.

-Tim

[mrbigblock]

once you do it,your in for a surprise, your appreciation will grow for the ii's

[cobragt]

As maligned as that generation of Mustang is I have always wanted one. Where I go running I pass one that has been sitting for at least 10 years that I know of, such a temptation to just knock on the door and see if they want to get rid of it.

-Tim

go for it!

[castine917]

Some where around that weight, You'll need to do some chassis stiffening with the T-tops.


This is the 3rd hatch that has been on this car, I'm hoping it will be the last. The inside of this one has Zeibart or Rusty Jones or something in it. So maybe it won't rot away like the other 2.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P4260006vi-1.jpg

Welded up the emblem holes and drilled out the holes for the spoiler and way more bondo work than I wanted. I think the media blaster may have warped it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P4290002vi-1.jpg


This I put off for a while. But wasn't as hard to repair as I thought.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P5080026vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P5080027vi-1.jpg

New pieces that I made.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P5080029vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P5080030vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/P5240001vi-1.jpg

after bondo work and stripping the old seam sealer and paint I got it in primer. Still not sure why that side rusted but the other side didn't. Next step will be sanding seam sealing and getting the hatch and jamb painted so I can glue the new weather strip in and install the hatch and glass.that chassis flex is present in the hatch version also and causes these issues. when the engine revs. the hatch is twisted and rubs that area inside hatch to deform. do you find stress cracks on passenger side between hatch and rear quarter window? my 78 was cracked there and i was told it was very common.

[srh3trinity]

I have never noticed it, but I really like the look of those tail lights.

[avewhtboy]

Cool project, I live in Tucker, so not too far away, maybe I will get to see this in person at RTTH? or even Peach state?

[cobragt]

I have never noticed it, but I really like the look of those tail lights.

I made those. Lot of cutting and glueing and rewiring. Lot's of fun!

[cobragt]

Cool project, I live in Tucker, so not too far away, maybe I will get to see this in person at RTTH? or even Peach state?

Hopefully I will be able to bring it to the Peach state. Lots to do on it.

[cobragt]

that chassis flex is present in the hatch version also and causes these issues. when the engine revs. the hatch is twisted and rubs that area inside hatch to deform. do you find stress cracks on passenger side between hatch and rear quarter window? my 78 was cracked there and i was told it was very common.
Yeah, even my 87 started cracking there. Best thing to do would be to grind out the body solder and weld the seam. That should cure most of the problem. Adding a cage would help more.

[cobragt]

So I figured out that the Factory Cobra sway bars are as big as they get. Anything aftermarket are just replicating the Heavy Duty Cobra sway bars. I really think it needs something bigger than 1" in the front. And no not all the V8 cars came with the HD suspension. It was an option on anything but the Cobra. So I guess they will just come off and get powdercoated along with the strut rods. I also have the T-top bars for under the hood. I'll get them done at the same time. I'm probably going to Mustangs Unlimited this weekend to pick up the "c" kit springs. I will be ordering the upper and lower control arms from Hiedts. And Summit has Wilwood spindles for the Mustang 11 that are taller for better geometry but not dropped like the Hiedts ones. Then I need to take some measurements and pictures and get that over to Traction Master so they can make me some Traction bars. Lots to do!

[cobragt]

Really! Every time I go over to Mustangs Unlimited they are out of stock on what I need at that point in time. Last time it was the new 5spd. Had to drive 45min. to Summit to get it. Then they have to order the headers I want and now the spring kit had to be ordered. So those are on order they said up to 2 weeks to get them. I guess it's not to big of a deal because I have ordered the control arms yet.

[cobragt]

I ordered the upper and lower control arms from Hiedts today.

[cobragt]

Got my new control arms the other day https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/100_0971vi-1.jpg

Still haven't gotten the springs yet, Next I need to get the new shocks and spindles ordered.

[joemac]

There is a mustang forum with a guy who ports those intakes, they can get pretty good gains when ported. Enough to support a mild build anyway. Seems to me his user name might be TMOSS but I can't remember the name of the forum.

[cobragt]

Got my Spindles last week, still no springs. https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/100_1058vi-1.jpg

[cobragt]

Pulled the tank last weekend so I can find out why it was leaking, I guess it was just the vent tube that runs between the 2 tanks it was crushed and cracked, but all the lines needed to be replaced any way. Also replaced the filter in the tank. https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/100_1047vi-1.jpg I also need to fix this while everything is apart https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/100_1048vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/100_1060vi-1.jpg Clamped a piece of aluminum behind it so I could weld up the gaps.

[cobragt]

I drew this last week. I'll make copies and try to figure out different stripes

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/100_1059vi-1.jpg

[chunger]

Mustang II's have 2 fuel tanks? I never knew that.

[cobragt]

Rather than making a bigger tank for the V6 and V8 cars they just used the tank that had been in the Pinto since 70 and added a 5 gal. saddle tank. Good idea from a production stand point/
Mustang II's have 2 fuel tanks? I never knew that.

[cobragt]

Very cool! I'm thinking Silver State Classic! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7us_XjNPSs&feature=player_embedded

[cobragt]

Lets try this again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7us_XjNPSs&feature=player_embedded

[ModedCB2]

^^^ that was bad ass.... I want details on the car... I see bright blue metalic paint, king-cobra type air dam... not much else...

I am so glad to see at least one other II on here. My '78 KC is up next for a complete PT redo. I did it about 7 years ago, then life happened and haven't had the funds or time to work on it. My oldest son is about to turn 8 and is getting the bug to work on something. I've got a lil Mazda 323GT project to finish first.. then we will start a build log on the KC.

A few points you prob already know, but I'll toss them out for anyone else considering a MII or Pinto build....

* the competition handling group, std on all cobra II's and King cobra. were 4cl 7 V-6 got 13/16" front bar and v-8's got1" front bars, 11/16" rear for 4cyl V6 & 3/4" for V-8's. A simple open end wrench of the appropriate size is a fast test in a junk yard for the largest bars. Pinto sway bars DO NOT interchange and are smaller anyway. And yes the Cobra II was available with all 3 engines. King Cobra's were 5.0/302's only.

* Addco and Quickor Engineering made 1 1/8" front bars the largest rear bar I have seen is the stock 3/4". Rumor was Racer Walsh back in the day had a 15/16" rear bar. But I cannot imagine with the light weight of these cars needing anything over the stock 3/4" I use the 13/16" rear bar on all 4 of my II's which are all V-8's

* Comp. Handling group got what Detroit Eaton calls the Mach 1/Cobra II heavy rear leaf springs. Still readily available.

* You will have to do some real searching and measuring but most every suspension bushing is available in Poly urethane. For the rear leafs I highly recommend taking either Prothane, Daystar or energy suspension's 65-73 rear leaf bushing kit & turning down the outside diameter to fit the MII leaf eyes. Worth every effort.

* Heidt's tubular arms are higher durometer rubber and are a great upgrade to the stock stamped arms and squishy rubber bushings as delivered OE.

* There was a guy out of Wisconsin selling all over eBay a few years ago, Rusty's or something like that, selling ready to go, "dog legged" subframe connectors in either bolt in or weld in versions. They can easily be made with some 1"x2" stock and even add seat reinforcement bars like the Fox bodies. It helps tremendously, t-tops or not.

* Summit & Jegs both have the Competition Engineering Main hoop and 6/8 point roll cage kits in stock for under $200 + truck freight. The fit of the main hoop is very good and tight to the B-pillar on Hatch backs and is reasonable on coupes. The coupes are more vertical at the b-pillar.

* if you plan to keep the rear leaf suspension, search for a set of the now out of business South Side Machine (SSM) rear traction bars. They differ from traditional slapper bars, in that instead of having a snubber, they are bolted/clamped with shims to adjust pre-load similar to Cal Tracs. I have been moving away from Leaf-set ups in all but one of my cars. but the SSM bars are the best traction aid for the MII leaf suspension I have found.

* Intakes: To clear the 1 1/2" offset (to the passenger side) and low hood clearance, the Wieand Stealth is a good aftermarket choice for a mild 302. Stock options, hard to beat the factory '83-85 5.0 GT 4bbl intake. It flows really well, its light, dirt cheap at swap meets, and all it needs is a good gasket-match port job. I am all EFI on my cars now and will never look back.

* Exhaust. This a tough one. The original Blackjack Headers were the least expensive, best fitting option. When Dynomax bought them out, the old pattern was tweaked and will ONLY fit the stock 4speed or the MII specific C$ with the 141 tooth flywheel and baby-sized bell housing. No matter, all the converter companies make SFI flexplates and converters for the 141tooth set up. Its popular in bracket classes due to its small size & light weight. The Hooker super comps are the only header I have seen clear a T5 swap and they require some dimpling on the clutch side of the engine. Hedman's headers go under the front subframe. Crappy design. All that said. I have played extensively with the MII cast manifolds. Porting, extrude honing etc. I have (3) sets in my cars, all heavily ported and flow within 10cfm of the typical aftermarket unequal length shorty header from a Fox body. Gasket match the head side of the manifold, then using a flex grinder go as deep into the manifold as you can reach. they are thick. hog them out. then I use a mild burr to a slight "spinning pattern' on the final polished finish. Results: look stock/unassuming, flow great, keep heat in, and never a leak. all wins. Then have them Jet hot or similar coated inside and out. done deal.

* rear ends: I use the 67-70 8" housing in all my cars. Gains you 2" overall width, which lets you run wider wheel without mini-tubs or a huge wheel with mini-tubs. 8" vs 9" 9" is heavy and of course bullet proof. But unless you are making 700hp/tq its totally unnecessary waste of $$ in the budget. A good Auburn Pro Dif, Moser or strange axles... good to go. If you think you will hurt the 8" (highly unlikely) then swap in the 8.8 from an explorer and get OE rear discs. Far more efficient than a 9", lighter, and huge after market support. cheaper than a 9" too.

can't wait to watch vicariously as your car comes together. I won't start mine till this winter.

Rob

[cobragt]

Lot's of good info. Thanks'!
^^^ that was bad ass.... I want details on the car... I see bright blue metalic paint, king-cobra type air dam... not much else...

I am so glad to see at least one other II on here. My '78 KC is up next for a complete PT redo. I did it about 7 years ago, then life happened and haven't had the funds or time to work on it. My oldest son is about to turn 8 and is getting the bug to work on something. I've got a lil Mazda 323GT project to finish first.. then we will start a build log on the KC.

A few points you prob already know, but I'll toss them out for anyone else considering a MII or Pinto build....

* the competition handling group, std on all cobra II's and King cobra. were 4cl 7 V-6 got 13/16" front bar and v-8's got1" front bars, 11/16" rear for 4cyl V6 & 3/4" for V-8's. A simple open end wrench of the appropriate size is a fast test in a junk yard for the largest bars. Pinto sway bars DO NOT interchange and are smaller anyway. And yes the Cobra II was available with all 3 engines. King Cobra's were 5.0/302's only.

* Addco and Quickor Engineering made 1 1/8" front bars the largest rear bar I have seen is the stock 3/4". Rumor was Racer Walsh back in the day had a 15/16" rear bar. But I cannot imagine with the light weight of these cars needing anything over the stock 3/4" I use the 13/16" rear bar on all 4 of my II's which are all V-8's

* Comp. Handling group got what Detroit Eaton calls the Mach 1/Cobra II heavy rear leaf springs. Still readily available.

* You will have to do some real searching and measuring but most every suspension bushing is available in Poly urethane. For the rear leafs I highly recommend taking either Prothane, Daystar or energy suspension's 65-73 rear leaf bushing kit & turning down the outside diameter to fit the MII leaf eyes. Worth every effort.

* Heidt's tubular arms are higher durometer rubber and are a great upgrade to the stock stamped arms and squishy rubber bushings as delivered OE.

* There was a guy out of Wisconsin selling all over eBay a few years ago, Rusty's or something like that, selling ready to go, "dog legged" subframe connectors in either bolt in or weld in versions. They can easily be made with some 1"x2" stock and even add seat reinforcement bars like the Fox bodies. It helps tremendously, t-tops or not.

* Summit & Jegs both have the Competition Engineering Main hoop and 6/8 point roll cage kits in stock for under $200 + truck freight. The fit of the main hoop is very good and tight to the B-pillar on Hatch backs and is reasonable on coupes. The coupes are more vertical at the b-pillar.

* if you plan to keep the rear leaf suspension, search for a set of the now out of business South Side Machine (SSM) rear traction bars. They differ from traditional slapper bars, in that instead of having a snubber, they are bolted/clamped with shims to adjust pre-load similar to Cal Tracs. I have been moving away from Leaf-set ups in all but one of my cars. but the SSM bars are the best traction aid for the MII leaf suspension I have found.

* Intakes: To clear the 1 1/2" offset (to the passenger side) and low hood clearance, the Wieand Stealth is a good aftermarket choice for a mild 302. Stock options, hard to beat the factory '83-85 5.0 GT 4bbl intake. It flows really well, its light, dirt cheap at swap meets, and all it needs is a good gasket-match port job. I am all EFI on my cars now and will never look back.

* Exhaust. This a tough one. The original Blackjack Headers were the least expensive, best fitting option. When Dynomax bought them out, the old pattern was tweaked and will ONLY fit the stock 4speed or the MII specific C$ with the 141 tooth flywheel and baby-sized bell housing. No matter, all the converter companies make SFI flexplates and converters for the 141tooth set up. Its popular in bracket classes due to its small size & light weight. The Hooker super comps are the only header I have seen clear a T5 swap and they require some dimpling on the clutch side of the engine. Hedman's headers go under the front subframe. Crappy design. All that said. I have played extensively with the MII cast manifolds. Porting, extrude honing etc. I have (3) sets in my cars, all heavily ported and flow within 10cfm of the typical aftermarket unequal length shorty header from a Fox body. Gasket match the head side of the manifold, then using a flex grinder go as deep into the manifold as you can reach. they are thick. hog them out. then I use a mild burr to a slight "spinning pattern' on the final polished finish. Results: look stock/unassuming, flow great, keep heat in, and never a leak. all wins. Then have them Jet hot or similar coated inside and out. done deal.

* rear ends: I use the 67-70 8" housing in all my cars. Gains you 2" overall width, which lets you run wider wheel without mini-tubs or a huge wheel with mini-tubs. 8" vs 9" 9" is heavy and of course bullet proof. But unless you are making 700hp/tq its totally unnecessary waste of $$ in the budget. A good Auburn Pro Dif, Moser or strange axles... good to go. If you think you will hurt the 8" (highly unlikely) then swap in the 8.8 from an explorer and get OE rear discs. Far more efficient than a 9", lighter, and huge after market support. cheaper than a 9" too.

can't wait to watch vicariously as your car comes together. I won't start mine till this winter.

Rob

[cobragt]

Painted the control arms last week with POR. Heidts sent me some new decals to replace the ones that I had to take off. https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/100_1243vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/100_1244vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/100_1246vi-1.jpg

[cobragt]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/100_1242vi-1.jpg

[ModedCB2]

Paul , using the stock Struts for the lower arms? energy and Heidt's have poly bushings for the struts to help with deflection. Hands down the single best upgrade/mod I did on my cars was the Heidt's arms.. I went full triangulated. but the tubular arms and the better bushings are worth the swap regardless.

Rob

[cobragt]

Springs are still on back order. :(

[78CobraII]

Great to see a couple of Mustang II (and Vega) fans here! I'm working on both a '78 coupe and a '78 CBII.

I came across this article on a great handling CBII in Popular Hot Rodding a couple of years ago: http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/0604phr_1976_ford_mustang_ii/index.html

He used fiberglass monoleaf springs and CalTracs on the rear.

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

ayyeee!

nice one!

[78CobraII]

Another possibilty on the strut rods would be something similar to this one by AMX-LS3 (https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?65701-Amx-ls3):

https://www.pro-touring.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=36577

https://www.pro-touring.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=36580

Or some variation of the spherical bearing that TCP uses on their early Mustang strut rod.

[feeble]

A couple of MII suspension and chassis related notes for those that are interested

The house brand Speedway control arms are made by Heidt's and are quite a bit less expensive.

I ordered the heavy duty Eaton rear springs but had the rear eye made to the smaller Pinto size. That allowed me to use the urethane rear eye bushings and much shorter Pinto shackle to bring the rear of the car down.

You can order subframe connectors from Stumpy's Fab Works: http://www.stumpysfabworks.zoomshare.com/0.html

I've got a chart with suspension and other bushings listed here: http://www.mustangiitech.org/files/MustangIIbushingsmounts_rev20110304.pdf If you know of any other, I'd sure appreciate the help completing the chart.

It is kind of heavy and crude, but I have designed and built an engine compartment brace that ties in with the stock t-top braces:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif


And installed on my old car:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Tony Hall over at MustangII.net has one that he made from a later model Mustang that is very nice and provides more carb clearance.

Great work, I'll be watching this thread to see how your build progresses.

[cobragt]

Pretty sure I did that when I rebuilt it last time.
Paul , using the stock Struts for the lower arms? energy and Heidt's have poly bushings for the struts to help with deflection. Hands down the single best upgrade/mod I did on my cars was the Heidt's arms.. I went full triangulated. but the tubular arms and the better bushings are worth the swap regardless.

Rob

[ModedCB2]

Feeble, for either small pinto or MII rear eyes and MII front eye's on the leaf springs, I also have Eaton springs, i used an off the shelf Energy poly leaf spring kit on one car and a Daystar poly kit on my other MII. The ID of the hole + the provided metal sleeves are perfect, as is the grade 8 hardware. I simply put the bushing over a bolt that was super tight into the ID hole . had to be pressed on. then chucked the hex head in the stationary side of a lathe and turned down the OD to fit each end. It could also be done, less precisely using a bolt, bench vise and a handheld grinder.

thanks for the link on stumpy's... I've been trying to find his name for over 2 years.

Rob

[cobragt]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/100_1229vi-1.jpg
Gas filler opening finished.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/100_1233vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/100_1235vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/100_1236vi-1.jpg

[cobragt]

Gas tank repair.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/100_1270vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/100_1272vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/100_1274vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/100_1356vi-1.jpg

I used Ford Mineral Grey on the tank.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/100_1372vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/100_1373vi-1.jpg

[JonR]

Nice work.

[cobragt]

Stumpy's Fabrication Works Subframe connectors. I like these!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/Subframeconnectorsvi-1.jpg

I putting these on my list!

[cobragt]

Before: https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_1381vi-1.jpg

After some green basecoat, I didn't worry about it looking to good since it's mostly covered by the tank, just wanted to get rid of the original white overspray. https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_1385vi-1.jpg.

The quarter panel seal that took forever to get.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_1383vi-1.jpg

New N.O.S. gas cap. https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_1389vi-1.jpg

The Tank in the car. https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_1392vi-1.jpg

[feeble]

Looks very nice.

Where did you get the quarter panel seal?

[cobragt]

Connecticut Mustang, but it sounded like it may have been the last one he had. It wasn't perfect and I did have to do a little repair where the rubber was cracked and it was a little rusted, I cut away the rubber to expose the rust, some POR and after that was dry some of that rubber coating that you dip tool handles in from the hardware store and it was pretty much good as new.
Looks very nice.

Where did you get the quarter panel seal?

[78CobraII]

I'm trying to get my tank back in also. Unfortunately I pulled all of the brake and fuel lines years ago so I'm working on figuring out the factory routing.

I hope to see more updates of your project soon.

[cobragt]

New T-5 installed today! https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_1408vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_1409vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_1410vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/100_1411vi-1.jpg

What a difference, no crunching, no grinding, in and out of gears with no problems. I'm not really sure I can get used to this. LOL!

[feeble]

Your tranny crossmember is upside down but it looks like you made it work. Which bellhousing did you use? The T5 is a great swap, the II is a much better car because of it.

[cobragt]

The engine is out of an 85 GT and the 5spd and bell housing came from an 83 GT. The new 5spd is a World Class that I got from Summit. This is the way I did it yrs ago when I first did the swap. Sometimes you just do what you need to to make it work. There are also 1" thick spacers between the trans mount and spacer plate to raise the trans up to a better position. At some point I am planning on making a new cross member. But everything will need to come back out again anyway. I did the Trans swap back in 2000 after my 87 GT was wrecked, I just needed to get rid of the Automatic to make the car more drivable. The engine swap was done in 95.
Your tranny crossmember is upside down but it looks like you made it work. Which bellhousing did you use? The T5 is a great swap, the II is a much better car because of it.

[feeble]

Interesting that the front to back spacing came out right.... thank you for posting the pics.

[cobragt]

Actually the shifter sits a little farther forward so the hole in the floor had to be opened up and the console had to be moved forward. I also used the chrome trim for the Auto shifter and the shifter boot came from a Honda CRX .
Interesting that the front to back spacing came out right.... thank you for posting the pics.

[cobragt]

So Mustangs Unlimited told me, on the Thursday before last, that my Springs for the Cobra would be shipped on Monday the 11th. I went in there today to get a speedo gear for the car and decided to ask about them again since I haven't gotten them yet. Now they are telling me that they have a ship date of Dec. 31. WTF! So I called Summit, they have 6 sets in stock and they will hold a set til I can get down there. I will be cancelling the order with Mustangs Unlimited because I'm done with there BS. I'm heading to Tampa Friday for a wedding so I can pick them up on the way down. and I will be saving $20. Summits price is $164 and Mustangs Unlimited has them for $184, if I would have known that I would have went to Summit to begin with.

[cobragt]

Update on the Cobra, Hadn't had much time to do much but I did work on the new hatch a bit. I blocked it with 180 and reprimed it

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/100_1739vi-1.jpg

Then I cut it in around where the glass goes.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/100_1758vi-1.jpg

Then a few days latter I painted the underside.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/100_2254vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/100_2257vi-1.jpg

I've got my other back glass out of storage and I'll get some new clip and get it installed once it's cleaned up. Then I'll get the hatch jamb on the car painted and glue in the new seal. I'm ordering new lift shocks from Pep boys tomorrow since they don't stock them anymore.

[cobragt]

Just finished installing 13ft of new steel fuel line in the Cobra today, what a pain the ass! Just hope this fixes the rust in the fuel filter problem.

[showa]

Making good progress.... Look forward to seeing this completed.

[cobragt]

Hatch Jamb has been painted and the seal installed along with the new hatch.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/100_2323vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/100_2324vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/100_2325vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/100_2328vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/100_2326vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/100_2327vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/100_2329vi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/100_2330vi-1.jpg


This was done about 2 weeks ago ( sorry for not updating sooner) I still do not have the back glass in the car because I was looking for a none rear defog glass. I found an NOS one in Ohio but $355 with shipping is more than I want to spend so I'm going to figure out which one of the two I have is the best one and get it installed next week. It's going to be a major pain in the a$$ to get the tape off the hatch that's holding the plastic on over the opening.

[Kenova]

For some reason the hole in the back of the car looks even bigger when you take the hatch off.
Makes one ponder the structural integrity of the car.

Ken

[cobragt]

I've actually put that car and my 87 GT through a lot and they have held up pretty well.
For some reason the hole in the back of the car looks even bigger when you take the hatch off.
Makes one ponder the structural integrity of the car.

Ken

[MonzaRacer]

In all honesty if you upgraded control arms maybe you should have talked to Ridetech about coil overs? Iknow more more cash BUT from all I have heard there pretty close to perfect. I am looking into them for the Monza if shockwave clearance cant be managed.

[cobragt]

Coil overs were way more then I wanted to spend but Hiedts did have control arms if I had wanted to go that way. Coming up with money for the brake kits, axles, wheels and tires is the big problem now. I also need to sort out some electrical problems too.
In all honesty if you upgraded control arms maybe you should have talked to Ridetech about coil overs? Iknow more more cash BUT from all I have heard there pretty close to perfect. I am looking into them for the Monza if shockwave clearance cant be managed.

[68vert]

Subscribed. I always had a soft spot for this body style. Awesome bro. Keep making progress.

[cobragt]

Had my extra front fender stripped. There are problem with the one that's on the car now so I decided to get this one ready and change it out.
54648RL]

54649

54650

Just need to fill some holes and fix a couple dents.

[cobragt]

Quick update, had the drive shaft shortened by an inch and put in a safety hoop.

58137

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58140

58141

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

hell yea youre doing it man!!!

[cobragt]

Sorry I haven't updated in a while but there has been lots going on and less time to work on the car. I've also been in the process of getting my Dads 86 GT ready to paint. I did have to move the safety hoop back by one set of holes, The engine torques over enough under a load that the weights on the drive shaft were hitting the bolt heads. Just dumb luck that I bolted it in right there. I was going to make an engine torque limiter but because of all the late model accessories on the front of the engine there is no place to bolt it to. Anyway I wanted to do something different with the parking lights other than getting rid of them so this is what I came up with.

78408

78410

78409

78411

78412

[cobragt]

78413

78414

78415

78416

78417

78418



78419

78420

78421

Three more to go.

[cobragt]

So not only did I glue the bezel to the inside of the fender but I also rolled the wheel lip and shaved the radio antenna. The fun part was changing the fender with the front end and bumper on.

78422

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78424

Rolling the wheel lip makes it hard to put the fender liner back in.

78425

[feeble]

Looking good, some nice custom touches!

Where did you buy the driveshaft hoop?

[cobragt]

I think it's a Competition Engineering piece for a Fox body. Some one gave me a bunch of Fox body parts and it was in the box. It looks just like the one I put in my 87 GT. But the one in the Mustangs Unlimited catalog looks a bit different. Maybe they changed the design a bit. The main hoop is the same but the floor pieces look different.
Looking good, some nice custom touches!

Where did you buy the driveshaft hoop?

[ForGotN78]

How do I get specs to be legal in auto cross, where are the events.

[cobragt]

check for a local SCCA or other autocross clubs, also watch the events page on here for local events. As far as being legal, good tires, no major leaks, working seat belts, battery secure and a helmet. where do you live?

[cobragt]

Update, Got divorced last year and my Dad passed away. Sold the house at the beginning of this year and moved in with Mom. Had to rent a warehouse for storage. I got 2000 square feet for $900 a month enough room for all my crap 3 project cars and the trailer. Should be able to start working on the cars again soon. Only thing thats been done to the Cobra was a set of Classic LED taillights

[1965gp]

Keep your head up- sounds like a rough year.

[feeble]

^^ What he said. Play the long game.