Aeromotive 16306 Pump Volt Controller

[go-fish]

I am using an Aeromotive A1000 on a 650hpD1-SC blow through engine. It all works great and runs fine. My concern is for the A1000 getting hot on longer drives due to having sustained full voltage. I have heard they can get fried.

I've been eyeballing the Aeromotive Billet Electric Fuel Pump Controllers (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-16306/)

"Whether you're cruising or running wide-open throttle, Aeromotive's billet electric fuel pump controllers are able to sense engine rpms and deliver the correct voltage to the fuel pump(s). An adjustable knob lets you calibrate the desired rpm level, and an LED indicator confirms ignition hookup, verifies the energizing of the manual override circuit, and indicates the circuit is providing full voltage to the pump."

This is recomended with EFI cars and A1000's but would it have a benefit for me having a carb? I want my fuel pump to last me as long as possible and have a little insurance that my pump won't leave me stranded if I take a week long road trip.

Also, is it going to be quieter with only the required voltage going to the pump to run it? (Damn noisy at idle!) Is it going to drastically going to lengthen the service life of my pump?

An A1000 is $325 new, the controller is $319. Is it worth it?

[67 ls1 vert]

I have the A1000 pump also. I am going to buy that controller
for my set up. I like the idea of running it at a lower voltage under cruising conditions.
No need to have all that fuel returning back to the tank getting hot recirculation.

I would think the pump would last a lot longer with it running cooler.

[go-fish]

I also want to make sure I can set a minimum for the pressure so it won't go below what I have the regulator set at (Aeromotive p/n 13204)

[Rhino]

Pumps don't actually produce pressure, they produce flow. It's the resistance to the flow that creates pressure. As long as your pump is able to keep up with the fuel volume demand at the reduced voltage you should be ok.